From: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com (krnet-l-digest) To: krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V1 #37 Reply-To: krnet-l-digest Sender: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Errors-To: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Precedence: bulk krnet-l-digest Tuesday, June 10 1997 Volume 01 : Number 037 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 10:28:34 -0700 From: David Moore Subject: KR: Gates Polychain For anyone that is interested Gates Rubber has a web page for the Poly Chain GT Belt for redrives, just don't use the Aviation word when you talk to them. Their policy is NO AIRCRAFT APPLICATION. http://www.gates.com/gates/polychain.hmtl David Moore Hesperia,Calif. 92345 Turnkey1@MSCOMM.COM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 06:57:46 +1000 From: Peter Leonard Subject: Re: KR: High Speed in KRs This sounds like a very reasonable request, what is Vso, Vfe, Va, Vno and Vne for a stock standard KR-2? The KR-2 has been sold as plans for quite a few years now, surely these parameters have been established by now. Yes, if you change the structure of the aircraft you are experimenting and if you are wise you will start flight testing from scratch again. Have you improved on what you had before, if the above parameters are known then your experiment can be judged worthwhile or a failure and improvements can be made and benefit everbody. Also if you build a stock standard KR-2 you will have some reference to refer to. When you come to flight test your own KR-2, you will know if it meets the stated requirements for that aircraft and if it doesn't then maybe you have built it wrong. Can anybody help with these figures Vso, Vfe, Va, Vno and Vne because I am very curious as to what they are? Regards Peter Leonard pleonard@gil.com.au At 10:23 AM 8/06/97, you wrote: >This sounds like a reasonable, practical question, but I'm going to >nit-pick. What is the 'stable speed range?' > >For any airplane the (flying) speed range is from stall speed to never >exceed speed. (Actually for production airplanes, the test pilot >demonstrated a few percent more than Vne). > But you said STABLE speed range. For US built production civil aircraft, >that corresponds with the Vs to Vne range mentioned above. > > But we are referring to an experimental type. > Because the KR developed from the Taylor monoplane, we know that its >ancestor was stable thru the range - that's because the bad old FAA >equivalent in Britain won't license planes that aren't stable. > Here, we can add a little width here, add a little length there, add a >little weight over there. > That's called FREEDOM! But it makes KRs a variable commodity. > > OK, but you asked for actual values for actual planes. >That runs us into another problem. > > DO you know how to measure stability in even one axis? >Do you know the difference between static and dynamic stability? > Do you really think every pilot who gets through to first flight >day is an accomplished test-pilot too? >I think that's asking for too much. >That's why I don't think your question has a reasonable >straightforward answer. > >Regards >brian whatcott > >At 22:19 6/8/97 +1000, you wrote: >>Most aircraft are stable for a range of speeds, however you need to know >>what the range is before exploring outside the envelope. >> >>Does anyone know what the stable speed envelope is for a KR-2? Does >>anyone know (not read from the plans, but know from actual flight test) >>what the stable CofG range is for the KR-2 and what is the speed >>envelope for this CofG range? >> >>Bill Ginn >>Australia >>ginnwj@ibm.net >> > >brian whatcott >Altus OK > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 17:05:05 -0400 (EDT) From: LVav8r@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Gates Polychain In a message dated 97-06-09 13:41:25 EDT, David writes: << For anyone that is interested Gates Rubber has a web page for the Poly Chain GT Belt for redrives, just don't use the Aviation word when you talk to them. Their policy is NO AIRCRAFT APPLICATION. http://www.gates.com/gates/polychain.hmtl David Moore Hesperia,Calif. 92345 Turnkey1@MSCOMM.COM >> Try this url instead http://www.gates.com/polychain.html . It didn't work the way it was listed in the post. Just drop the gates in the middle and it'll work fine. Or try http://www.gates.com/ to see the company's entire site. Tom Kilgore Las Vegas, NV LVav8r@aol.com KR-2S 1% complete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 17:50:13 -0600 (MDT) From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: RAF-48 data This may have been mentioned before but the following link has data (also included): http://opus.aae.uiuc.edu/~selig/ads/coord_database.html#R RAF-48 AIRFOIL 17. 17. 0.000000 0.000000 0.012500 0.026000 0.025000 0.036500 0.050000 0.052000 0.075000 0.063900 0.100000 0.073000 0.150000 0.086300 0.200000 0.095300 0.300000 0.104000 0.400000 0.102000 0.500000 0.093800 0.600000 0.079400 0.700000 0.060500 0.800000 0.040200 0.900000 0.019500 0.950000 0.010050 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.012500 -0.016500 0.025000 -0.023400 0.050000 -0.031600 0.075000 -0.036900 0.100000 -0.040300 0.150000 -0.044100 0.200000 -0.045800 0.300000 -0.045600 0.400000 -0.043300 0.500000 -0.039000 0.600000 -0.033600 0.700000 -0.026500 0.800000 -0.018300 0.900000 -0.010000 0.950000 -0.006400 1.000000 0.000000 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 20:01:00 EDT From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E. Scott) Subject: Re: KR: Project update On Sun, 08 Jun 1997 08:29:58 -0700 Donald Reid writes: >This won't help Mark, but in the Tony Bengelis books, he says to only use >electrical tape on Plexiglass. It doesn't remain stuck (and I hope he>is >right). You can also polish plexi to remove scratches, starting with fine >sandpaper and working through the grits to polishing compound. This could >remove tape residue in a brute force way. > >-- >Don Reid >donreid@erols.com > Absolutely right! I used electrical tape around the edge for painting, then wide masking tape up onto the factory plastic cover. I made it a point to remove all masking between paint/primer coats and tried to avoid using the masking tape directly on the canopy. Unfortunately, one very warm day, the masking tape turned to goo and baked on in between the electrical tape and the plastic canopy cover. Yhat's the stuff I need to get off. The electrical tape left no visible residue. - ---- Jeffrey Scott jscott.pilot@juno.com See construction of KR-2S N1213W at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/kjeffs.html - ---- - ---- Jeffrey Scott jscott.pilot@juno.com See construction of KR-2S N1213W at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/kjeffs.html - ---- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 21:39:52 -0400 (EDT) From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: High Speed in KRs In a message dated 97-06-09 17:44:12 EDT, Peter Leonard wrote: << This sounds like a very reasonable request, what is Vso, Vfe, Va, Vno and Vne for a stock standard KR-2? >> I KNOW someone posted all this info on their airplane within the last few months, but I can't find it in my KRNet files anywhere. Can someone help Peter out and forward him a copy? And while you're at it, add my adress to the distro list...... Thanks!!! Cheers! Rick Junkin EagleGator@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 20:56:24 -0600 (CST) From: Kim Steiner Subject: KR: KR-2s in Western Canada Hi; Is anyone flying or building a KR-2s or a KR-2 in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, or North Dakota? I have a friend that is seriously thinking about building a KR-2s and would like to see one before he makes a final decision. Thanks for any help ----- I will pass it on to my friend. Kim Saskatchewan Canada ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 23:34:11 -0400 (EDT) From: DavidDLA@aol.com Subject: KR: KR-2S canopy I need some input from you people flying under lite smoke tinted canopys. Is it worthwhile having the tinting or would you buy a clear next time around? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 22:50:34 -0500 From: Jim Faughn Subject: Re: KR: KR-2S canopy DavidDLA@aol.com wrote: > > I need some input from you people flying under lite smoke tinted canopys. Is > it worthwhile having the tinting or would you buy a clear next time around? Mine is smoked and I love it. I don't fly at night. If I had planned to fly at night I would have probably gone for the clear. (Note: I don't believe in flying at night in a single engine plane. I know this will get a response but I would prefer to see all emergency fields before I actually land in one.) - -- Jim Faughn N8931JF St. Louis, MO (314) 652-7659 or (573) 465-8039 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 00:24:53 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Re:Tiedown ideas >the longerons require continuous fibers >all the way through. For example, a few years ago a Flying Flea builder >crashed on his first flight, owing to severe problems with his changes >to the design. One of the problems cited later, though it did not >contribute to the accident, was that he had scarfed the longerons, a >technique that would have been acceptable elsewhere. I've always read that a long enough taper on a scarf, it's as strong as the original wood, even on a spar. Is this actually a myth? Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 00:24:57 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Transponders? Yes! >>>If you have ANY kind of a certificated aircraft, you >>>MUST have a mode-C transponder in it to fly into the 30 nm mode-C veil >area, >>>non-electrical aircraft or otherwise. > >>This is not what I have always read, so I'm unconvinced it's correct, unless >>the regulations have changed very recently. Are you quoting from a recent >>revision of the FAR's, and which one? > >I'm convinced. I'm quoting direct from Mr. Hayden Decker who is head of the >Columbus, OH, FAA FSDO I don't own an antique plane, so this is irrelevant to me at the moment, but there seems to be a tendency for FAA bureaucrats to make up an opinion out of their heads and swear up and down it's the law. The same thing happened a year or two ago concerning whether buyers of homebuilts built by someone else can do all their own maintenance. The answer is "yes," except for the annuals, but some FAA bureaucrat told a person on this list completely the opposite. Therefore, as I said, I'll believe there has been a complete an unannounced change in the transponder rule when one of these bureaucrats QUOTES the FAR with a citation to where he's reading it from. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 00:25:05 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Gates Poly Chain Belt Drives In a message dated 97-06-06 22:00:44 EDT, you write: >Well I got my Belt drive catalog from Gates today and all they have listed >is cast iron sprockets! :-( I called the local Gates distributor and she >told me the custom order department in Colorado would build aluminum >sprockets if I wanted them too, but there would be a minimum order value! >:-( Oh well struck out again. > >Where are the redrive guys getting their sprockets? Maybe Stratus, >Reductions and others are machining their own sprockets? Someone must know! >How about the belts used on the Harley street bikes, do they have aluminum >sprockets? British motorcycles have numerous kits for replacing the triplex primary chain with a belt drive, and I think many of them use Gates' belts. I'm looking at the catalog of Walridge Motors, Ltd. in Ontario, which has very good prices (519) 641-2770; (fax) (519) 473-3960; e-mail Matchless@std.net. For my Norton, which normally has a 26 tooth engine sprocket and a 57 tooth clutch sprocket, a Walridge belt replacement kit with alloy sprockets is $650 CN, which works out to about 3/4 of that in $US. The Harleys use a belt FINAL drive, but if the belt is the same, all these sprockets from different bikes could probably be mixed and matched. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 02:02:47 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: ??? from a newbie >it's that misleading >cruise speed that ticks me off. Yes, that speed has been attained but not as >a routine cruise figure and it wasn't by an airframe built to the plans. >There's no way a typical VW powered KR-2 is gonna see that kind of speed in >cruise. I used to think the KR's were some kind of rocket. Recently I ran >against a local KR guy who's always talking about how fast his aircraft is. >Well, we both have 2180's and in a 15 mile run my Sonerai walked away from >him and was a couple miles ahead when we reached the airport. I know, there's >all kinds of factors and I know KR's are generally faster than a Sonerai but >the point is, that cruise figure she advertises is bull. Offering it as >typical and a CRUISE instead of MAX is dishonest. I think this is the cruise speed because this is roughly the speed that Ken Rand's original prototype cruised. Probably the greatest difference from most KR's today is that most of the early KR's WERE built to plans in terms of being light weight. Nowadays, people try to gussy them up almost like mock Glasairs, but the design was intended as a simple, day VFR plane (like the Sonerai, in fact) that will fly very fast if it's built light enough. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 02:02:49 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: High Speed in KRs >>Most aircraft are stable for a range of speeds, however you need to know >>what the range is before exploring outside the envelope. >> >>Does anyone know what the stable speed envelope is for a KR-2? Does >>anyone know (not read from the plans, but know from actual flight test) >>what the stable CofG range is for the KR-2 and what is the speed >>envelope for this CofG range? > DO you know how to measure stability in even one axis? >Do you know the difference between static and dynamic stability? > Do you really think every pilot who gets through to first flight >day is an accomplished test-pilot too? >I think that's asking for too much. >That's why I don't think your question has a reasonable >straightforward answer. A person who uses his 40 hours to go through the testing program in "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" could answer all these questions and more -- a very valuable book. However, as you point out, the results would be true only for that particular plane. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 02:02:54 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Finally taxied! (no archive) >Squack list: Lengthen the slings so I have more head room and >check the brakes. Directional control at low speeds is very >good with the tail wheel directly tied to rudder movement (NO >spring or slack in cable to tail wheel). Is this for flying primarily on paved runways? I think I read that if you were on grass, etc., and hit a rock with the tailwheel, the springs would provide some "give" so nothing gets broken. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 04:51:42 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: Re:Wooden Construction MikeTnyc@aol.com wrote: > > I've always read that a long enough taper on a scarf, it's as strong as the > original wood, even on a spar. Is this actually a myth? > > Mike Taglieri With certain conditions, the scarf is as strong as the original wood. The conditions listed in my reference material involve the design of the scarf joint, grain orientation, and construction techniques. - -- Don Reid donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 06:54:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Baleco@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Finally taxied! (no archive) In a message dated 97-06-10 06:41:50 EDT, you write: << I think I read that if you were on grass, etc., and hit a rock with the tailwheel, the springs would provide some "give" so nothing gets broken. >> The springs can actually launch your tail in the wrong direction if you start chacing it back and for on the pedals. I like the tiller rod pavement or grass. Marty ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 97 13:14:06 ÿÿÿ From: steveb@aviation.denel.co.za Subject: Re: KR: Re:Wooden Construction A scarf joint in solid wood should have a slope of 10 in 1 (10 times longer than thick) The cut should be made as parallel to the grain in the 10:1 slope On my a/c if fitted two external patches (top & bottom) made of wood that is 1/4 the thickness of the longeron and running a length of 12 times the thickness of the longeron Steve in SA - ---------- From: SMTP1@K1 - Server@Servers[] To: Cc: Subject: Re: KR: Re:Wooden Construction Date: Monday, June 09, 1997 4:51AM MikeTnyc@aol.com wrote: > > I've always read that a long enough taper on a scarf, it's as strong as the > original wood, even on a spar. Is this actually a myth? > > Mike Taglieri With certain conditions, the scarf is as strong as the original wood. The conditions listed in my reference material involve the design of the scarf joint, grain orientation, and construction techniques. - -- Don Reid donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 08:26:38 -0400 From: "Cary Honeywell" Subject: KR: prop flange spacer I sent this message yesterday, but I think my connection to the server was severed before it got out. When mounting the prop spinner on my Revmaster, I found that there was not enough space between the cowel and the spinner. Shortening the cowel is not an option since clearance for the exhaust is at a minimum now. I guess a spacer is in order. My question: is there one on the market or do I get a metal shop to fabricate? If I have to fabricate, is there any specific metal to be used? - - Cary - KR-2 C-GJMW C172 C-FRRB Email to cary@storm.ca http://www.storm.ca/~cary/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 07:29:58 -0500 From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Janssen Craig) Subject: KR: Tri-gear Talked with an old friend who showed up with his KR-2 at a flyin breakfast I attended last weekend. Has about 500+ hours now on his KR-2. Started out flying it with his own version of fixed gear, tailwheel - Sonerai gear, I think. Anyway, he recently (last 15 hours or so?) added the Diehl tri-gear (latest version) and simply loves it. Says crosswind landings are absolutely no problem now. Lost 15 mph, however but no wheel fairings as yet. Ed Janssen ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 07:06:30 -0600 (MDT) From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Finally taxied! (no archive) At 02:02 97/6/10 -0400, you wrote: >>Squack list: Lengthen the slings so I have more head room and >>check the brakes. Directional control at low speeds is very >>good with the tail wheel directly tied to rudder movement (NO >>spring or slack in cable to tail wheel). > >Is this for flying primarily on paved runways? I think I read that if you >were on grass, etc., and hit a rock with the tailwheel, the springs would >provide some "give" so nothing gets broken. > >Mike Taglieri Yes it is primarily for paved runways. However I do have to tow in between my house and pavement. The small shopping cart tailwheel may get replaced with something larger in diameter and pneumatic (air). Two reasons: Raise the tail so I can see better (may not really be a problem) and roll a little quieter. Any comments from experienced tailwheel manly man fliers. Ron (whussie-boy) Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 09:50:53 -0700 From: Owen Davies Subject: Re: KR: KR-2s in Western Canada Kim Steiner wrote: > Is anyone flying or building a KR-2s or a KR-2 in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, > Alberta, or North Dakota? (Snip!) If you don't find anyone else, call Dave Johnson, at Reductions, Inc. One of his earlier customers was a KR builder in Saskatchewan, if memory serves, or at least out that way somewhere. He was a bureaucrat with the local government with an unlisted number, but Dave probably would be willing at least to pass the RFI along. Owen Davies ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 09:59:41 -0700 From: Owen Davies Subject: Re: KR: Re:Tiedown ideas MikeTnyc@aol.com wrote: > > >the longerons require continuous fibers > >all the way through. For example, a few years ago a Flying Flea builder > >crashed on his first flight, owing to severe problems with his changes > >to the design. One of the problems cited later, though it did not > >contribute to the accident, was that he had scarfed the longerons, a > >technique that would have been acceptable elsewhere. > > I've always read that a long enough taper on a scarf, it's as strong as the > original wood, even on a spar. Is this actually a myth? Er, well, er... That's what I had always thought, too, until I heard the response to this guy's construction shortcut. The heavy-duty-experienced home-builders I know were horrified. Then again, as someone here has already pointed out, a lot of the old tube-and-fabric builders--Piper and so on--often used scarfed-together wood in their spars when they did not have solid material on hand. Even Bucker did that, and their Jungmeister and Jungmann were solid to 12G. However, my impression is that this was done only when the spar was built in several layers (up-and-down or front-to-back) so that each scarf would be backed up by solid wood, and I believe that in spar repairs the scarf is supposed to be supported by plywood reinforcements. That isn't an option on pieces as slender as the longerons. Does anyone really know the answer here? Owen Davies ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 07:27:27 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: KR-2S canopy At 11:34 PM 6/9/97 -0400, you wrote: >I need some input from you people flying under lite smoke tinted canopys. Is >it worthwhile having the tinting or would you buy a clear next time around? > My friend has the light smoke and he said its great. He flies at night and says its not a problem. I mis-understood him the first time around and thought he said NOT to use the smoke canopy if you were planning to fly at night but he meant the dark smoke, the light smoke is no problem! _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 07:33:42 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Transponders? Yes! At 12:24 AM 6/10/97 -0400, you wrote: The same thing happened a year or two ago concerning whether buyers of homebuilts built by someone else can do all their own maintenance. The answer is "yes," except for the annuals, but some FAA bureaucrat told a person on this list completely the opposite. The non builder can only do the same maintenance to his newly acquired homebuilt (pre-built) as he could any other certified aircraft. (mostly preventative) an A&P or the manufacturer has to do the rest. Yes you do lose some of the privileges when you buy a homebuilt instead building your own. If not, why the heck would anyone build one when they could buy one and have all the benefits of building it? _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 07:34:24 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Re:Tiedown ideas At 12:24 AM 6/10/97 -0400, you wrote: >I've always read that a long enough taper on a scarf, it's as strong as the >original wood, even on a spar. Is this actually a myth? > >Mike Taglieri > > No. _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:41:50 -0400 (EDT) From: Horn2004@aol.com Subject: KR: Masking Tape Residue Removal In a message dated 6/9/97 8:40:41 PM, you wrote: << That's the stuff (the masking tape residue) I need to get off. The electrical tape left no visible residue.>> In the graphic design business, we use a solvent known as Bestine to remove many types of residue. We use it for wax removal as well as the residue that masking tape leaves. It has a very high flash point, evaporates in seconds, and leaves absolutely no residue. You can find it in any decent art supply store or drafting supply store. I've used it on plex before and have had no problems. Obviously, you would want to do a little test on any material (ie. epoxy) you intend to clean with it, but I would be willing to bet that this stuff will solve your residue problem. Just put a little on a clean, soft cotton cloth and rub lightly. Steve Horn Horn2004@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 07:43:37 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Re:Tiedown ideas At 09:59 AM 6/10/97 -0700, you wrote: >Does anyone really know the answer here? > >Owen Davies Do this, go buy your self a piece of pine, fir or what have you this weekend, one ling enough to make two three foot lengths and maybe 1 inch X 1 inch in size. Cut one of your three foot pieces in half and perform a perfect FAA certified scarf joint and then load test each piece. I can almost guarantee one will be just as strong as the other. Cheap experiment and it will build your confidence in wood and glue! :-) Installing windows and windshield this week! _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 07:52:29 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Painting ineterior parts?? Hello Sports fans! I installed he window in my door and it looks great! Anyway I have a question or two about painting areas in the cockpit. I hat to start applying paint to anything but I noticed with the canopy arraignment that if I don't paint some things now it will be darn near impossible to paint them later because of access. Did some of you builders paint certain pieces inside the cockpit this early in construction and if so did the paint last well enough so that it still looked good when you finally finished your project? I had to paint the inside of my baggage area because it would have been impossible to paint at a later date. Now I am thinking about painting the side panels, instrument panel and other bulkheads before I install my windshield and right side window to avoid getting paint on them and the possibility of not having very good access to paint them at a later date. PS I am using Krylon splatter paint and it works great! It comes with a small can of clear coat to apply after it dries. _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 17:14:30 +-200 From: JF de Wet Subject: RE: KR: KR-2S canopy Hi Guys I was a Flight Engineer (I think the AM term is Crew Chief) on Puma helicopters in the South African Air Force for many year and a few of the machines had green tinted plexiglass panels on the sides and on top (not in front). These were the best machines for night operations as far as vis was concerned. My KR has light green tinted plexiglass all round and is great as far as vis goes even early morning or dusk. This information comes from the original owner I have not flown her yet. Kobus de Wet South Africa www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/lab/5101/kilodelta.html - ---------- From: Micheal Mims[SMTP:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com] Sent: 10 June, 1997 16:27 To: krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: Re: KR: KR-2S canopy At 11:34 PM 6/9/97 -0400, you wrote: >I need some input from you people flying under lite smoke tinted canopys. Is >it worthwhile having the tinting or would you buy a clear next time around? > My friend has the light smoke and he said its great. He flies at night and says its not a problem. I mis-understood him the first time around and thought he said NOT to use the smoke canopy if you were planning to fly at night but he meant the dark smoke, the light smoke is no problem! _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 11:22:23 -0400 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: Masking Tape Residue Removal Horn2004@aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 6/9/97 8:40:41 PM, you wrote: > > << That's the stuff (the masking tape residue) I need to get off. The > electrical tape left no visible residue.>> > > In the graphic design business, we use a solvent known as Bestine to remove > many types of residue. We use it for wax removal as well as the residue that > masking tape leaves. It has a very high flash point, evaporates in seconds, > and leaves absolutely no residue. If a solvent evaporates quickly, it usually has a low flash point. Keep in mind that "flash point" is the temperature at which a combustible liquid will develop sufficient vapors to support combustion. Handle low flash point solvents very carefully with regard to possible ignition sources especially static electricity when rubbing natural fibers against synthetics or plastic. If you use in a well ventilated area, then the vapor level should not reach sufficient concentration to be a problem. Just be careful with that stuff! Patrick - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 12:15:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Baleco@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Finally taxied! (no archive) In a message dated 97-06-10 09:09:50 EDT, you write: << The small shopping cart tailwheel may get replaced with something larger in diameter and pneumatic (air). Two reasons: Raise the tail so I can see better (may not really be a problem) and roll a little quieter. Any comments from experienced tailwheel manly man fliers. >> I often wondered why on the Sonerai for example they use that little bitty tailwheel that is prone to breaking when there's probably more than 4 pounds of lead in the tail (SOnerai's and 2180's makes for noise heavy). How 'bout tossing the lead and putting a real tailwheel on the thing? Well, I might do that but will probably move the battery and save the weight instead. If KR's are marginal over the cowl this might just about give you what you need. If your vision is not already at the edge of the cowl though, it simply isn't gonna mean much. Now if you change the angle of the spring or lower the main gear (provided you have prop clearance) then you'd have something. Regarding noise, I use a solid rubber tailwheel and I don't notice noise. I used a hard plastic tailwheel for the fun of it and it made a bunch of noise funneled up the turtledeck. Marty ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 11:20:21 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: High Speed in KRs At 02:02 6/10/97 -0400, Mike T wrote: >A person who uses his 40 hours to go through the testing program in "Flight >Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" could answer all these questions and more -- a >very valuable book. However, as you point out, the results would be true >only for that particular plane. > >Mike Taglieri > I've heard only good of this book. The FAA expects simulator operators to be able to demonstrate similar stability coefficients as the prototype airplane which they simulate. (This is the field I currently work in). These days, an automatic test will 'jiggle the stick' etc. and draw a pretty plot of the damped oscillation. But biggest to smallest, airplanes are testing in much the same way, I believe. Where do I get a copy? Regards brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 12:25:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Baleco@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Transponders? Yes! In a message dated 97-06-10 10:53:31 EDT, you write: << The non builder can only do the same maintenance to his newly acquired homebuilt (pre-built) as he could any other certified aircraft. (mostly preventative) an A&P or the manufacturer has to do the rest. Yes you do lose some of the privileges when you buy a homebuilt instead building your own. If not, why the heck would anyone build one when they could buy one and have all the benefits of building it? >> Heck don't tell the FSDO's in our area we can do anything we want to our PURCHASED experimental aircraft. Once a year it requires a condition inspection by an A & P. Period. Marty ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:26:06 -0600 (MDT) From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Non-builder plane maintenance > The same thing happened a year or two ago concerning whether buyers of >homebuilts built by someone else can do all their own maintenance. The >answer is "yes," except for the annuals, but some FAA bureaucrat told a >person on this list completely the opposite. > > >The non builder can only do the same maintenance to his newly acquired >homebuilt (pre-built) as he could any other certified aircraft. (mostly >preventative) an A&P or the manufacturer has to do the rest. Yes you do >lose some of the privileges when you buy a homebuilt instead building your >own. If not, why the heck would anyone build one when they could buy one >and have all the benefits of building it? > >_______________________ >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims Michael, I was concerned about this when I was looking to buy a homebuilt. Based on my research, I will be able to do anything I wish on the plane EXCEPT for the annual condition inspection. If you find out positively otherwise, I don't want to hear it :) Ron "Why not use Elmers glue on that wood splice?" Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 12:26:15 -0400 (EDT) From: Baleco@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Transponders? Yes! In a message dated 97-06-10 10:53:31 EDT, you write: << The non builder can only do the same maintenance to his newly acquired homebuilt (pre-built) as he could any other certified aircraft. (mostly preventative) an A&P or the manufacturer has to do the rest. Yes you do lose some of the privileges when you buy a homebuilt instead building your own. If not, why the heck would anyone build one when they could buy one and have all the benefits of building it? >> Heck don't tell the FSDO's in our area we can do anything we want to our PURCHASED experimental aircraft. Once a year it requires a condition inspection by an A & P. Period. Marty ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:36:10 -0600 (MDT) From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: "Flight Testing Homebuilt Aircraft" book > But biggest to smallest, airplanes are testing in much the same way, I >believe. Where do I get a copy? > >Regards >brian whatcott I got mine from a local ultralight dealer. The author is Vaughan Askue The ISBN is 0-8138-1308-5 Cost me $19.95. Published by Iowa State University Press. 1-800-862-6657 or contact your local book store. Ron "Need to read the whole book" Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 15:56:06 -0300 From: jsellars@auracom.com Subject: Re: KR: Strakes At 09:03 PM 07/06/97 -0600, you wrote: >Guys, >> Have any of you builders or "soon to be builders" thought about adding >>strakes to your project? I recall reading somewhere that they decease >>drag and increase stability. >> >>Vince Bozik - Athens, Georgia >> Mailto:ICBM@ix.netcom.com > >I read something like that too Vince. Not sure where but it seems that the >strake in front of the vertical stabilizer adds stability in one axis. And >some Cessna's have them I think. Never knew what they were there for. This >is the kind of thing that may help but I have ZERO technical ability to know >how big to make them and if they would actually help and NOT hurt stability. > >Ron Lee > > >The book were I heard about strakes for the first time, was the title, Test Flying Homebuilt Aircraft by Askue. The book has been critiqued in the forum before and I have agreed with the assesment that it is very informative and valuable, for those of us who would like to test fly our creations ourselves. Rather than just fly once around the patch and then assert that the plane is a done deal, this book lays out the procedures required to safely expand the envelop and prove the airworthiness, of the finished project. I mean how many of the readers have plans to include even the most rudementary "G" meter in the dash ? Because it is a worthy suggestion for those who would fly the plane to it's limits. Besides the planning of the test flying, the book suggests cures for most of the evils that might come to light from the testing of the plane. Such as, a heavy wing or pitch stability problems. This is where the stakes are mentioned. They are mentioned as a relief for the problem, giving the horizontal stabilizer more authority and therefore more stabilizing effect. The examle we have all seen in general aviation is the strake just before the verticle fin of many popular aircraft like the Grumman and Cessna types. Anyway, the book sits on the stand next to my bed and is very good reading or I'd offer you mine. Get a copy, you'll enjoy it. Regards Jim ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 16:50:55 -0300 From: jsellars@auracom.com Subject: Re: KR: KR-2s in Western Canada At 08:56 PM 09/06/97 -0600, you wrote: >Hi; > >Is anyone flying or building a KR-2s or a KR-2 in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, >Alberta, or North Dakota? I have a friend that is seriously thinking >about building a KR-2s and would like to see one before he makes a final >decision. >Thanks for any help ----- I will pass it on to my friend. > >Kim > >Saskatchewan Canada > >Good Afternoon; Contact Mr. Dave Johnson @ reductions, they have a home page, based in Dugal Manitoba and he has close at hand two or three KR's for your looking. Furthermore, he has a fellow he told me about last night, who will need to sell his KR2 subaru powered model, as the result of failing health. Regards; Jim > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 15:55:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Horn2004@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Masking Tape Residue Removal In a message dated 6/10/97 12:44:20 PM, you wrote: <> My bad on the flashpoint. When I use it to clean tape residue, I usually use a cloth wetted with about 1/4 to 1/2 a teaspoon. You don't need much. You will need to re-wet the cloth frequently, though. Although I am always concerned about unexpected ignition, the quantity is so small the point is almost moot. Steve Horn Horn2004@aol.com ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V1 #37 ****************************