From: Majordomo@teleport.com[SMTP:Majordomo@teleport.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 9:32 AM To: john bouyea Subject: Majordomo file: list 'krnet-l' file 'v01.n093' -- From: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com (krnet-l-digest) To: krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V1 #93 Reply-To: krnet-l-digest Sender: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Errors-To: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Precedence: bulk krnet-l-digest Tuesday, September 9 1997 Volume 01 : Number 093 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 01:57:12 -0400 (EDT) From: BSHADR@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Japanese saw In a message dated 97-09-08 21:19:05 EDT, Tim wrote: << If you want a new one (Japanese saw) let me know. I live here in Yokohama Japan and the prices are reasonable. Shipping will be cheap too with my interline benefits. Tim Schuy New KR-2S builder in Japan E-Mail mouse@heiwa.com >> Tim: How about you bring me one (you still plan on attending the Gathering?), nothing like the real McCoy. I'll square up with you at the Gathering in Perry. Imagine, I'll fly from CA to Perry to pick up a saw hand delivered from Japan. This KRNet stuff makes life fun. Maybe you should bring a few with you and peddle 'em during the Gathering. I'll bet we could move 10 or 15 at the Woodworking session alone. I think the gathering management will buy a few to use as door prizes (especially if I pester Don a bit). Email me private and lets work out the details. Randy (the Saw Hawker) Stein BSHASR@aol.com Soviet Monica, CA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 23:00:38 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Japanese saw At 01:57 AM 9/9/97 -0400, you wrote: >How about you bring me one (you still plan on attending the Gathering?), nothing like the real McCoy. I'll square up with you at the Gathering in Perry. How about I buy a new blade for mine and bring it for people to play with? Not responsible for missing fingers on Sunday! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand \ / _\/\/_ _____/_//\\_\_____ F-117 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 04:42:33 -0700 From: enewbold@sprynet.com Subject: KR: Fuel guages Hi, Mike. >Gauges are another story, I really don't like the idea of spending money for >gauges and or installing two more holes in my instrument panel just for aux >tanks. Heck they are either full or empty, as they are not used in route. >If I must,.. I guess I will devise some sort of sight gauge for these tanks. >Anyone know what guys are using for gauges in aux tanks? I know the FARs >require a gauge for each tank but are some flying without gauges? A fellow named Frank Marrek in Wadsworth, Ohio, has a Smyth Sidewinder with a left tank, right tank and a header tank. He has one electrical fuel guage on his panel with a 3 position rotary selector switch under it. The switch is labelled LEFT, CENTER, RIGHT, which correspond with the position of the fuel tanks. CENTER LEFT RIGHT ^ | + | Thus, he can check the fuel level in any of the tanks at any time with the simple flick of a knob. If you like, perhaps I could persuade him to make us a little schematic. Ed Newbold Columbus, OH ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 08:49:59 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: Shhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!! and other stuff Micheal Mims wrote: > Anyone know what guys are using for gauges in aux tanks? I know the FARs > require a gauge for each tank but are some flying without gauges? > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com > http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand How about: 1) Mechanical a) top mounted dial indicator driven from a spiral float (like on some small lawn tractors) b) float/wire indicator like a Cub 2) Capacitance probes with one panel gauge and selector switch 3) Float switch low level alarm in the wing tanks. FAR's require the fuel level indication to be accurate at low level. This satisfies the low level part, but not indication over the full range. - -- Don Reid donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 09:04:04 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: Gross weight rahuman@swbell.net wrote: > > Do any of the real engineering types out there have a "never exceed > weight" for a KR-2. > There have been postings on spar/spar fitting strengths - so someone > must have taking > a realistic look at what is the maxium the design will support (pun > intended). > > Rick "struggling to stay under 700#" Human > Houston, TX. It looks to me like 800# gross weight and 6 G's is the ultimate. If that is true, then the following approximate limits should be appropriate (these are all approximate) Gross Ultimate Safe 900# 5.3 G 4.0 G 1000# 4.8 G 3.6 G 1100# 4.3 G 3.2 G 1200# 4.0 G 3.0 G 1300# 3.7 G 2.8 G - -- Don Reid donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 09:49:34 -0700 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: airworthiness certificate Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 09:25 AM 9/8/97 -0700, you wrote: > The Ellison TBI's inlet fitting is 1/4", so I figured it would be > >simplest to make it all 1/4". I did install a fuel pump and have found > >that when the fuel tank is very low, the engine will not even start > >without the fuel pump on. What sort of regulator are you talking about? > > Some guys are using the inline regulator found at most auto parts stores > that can be set as low as 1 to 2 psi. Seems to work great. I just talked > to Brad about the Ellison and I guess even though his seems to run perfectly > he is considering the installation of a pressure line from his main tank > directly to the Ellison, this along with his gravity feed line from the > header thank (with check valve)will allow him to use one pump to transfer > fuel from the main tank to the header (which over flows back to the main > when full) to pressure feed the Ellison during take off and high power settings. > > ________________________________ > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts > mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com > > http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand I have decided to change all the fuel lines and fittings to 3/8". I went over the whole system yesterday, and figured the cost of the refit to be about $70.00 including a new fuel pump with bigger outlets. Well worth the money in my mind. Unfortunately, this sets me back about a week while waiting for parts. That's OK, it will be nice to talk to the folks at Wicks. They are probably wondering what happened to me. Them and their stockholders. While I have the fuel tank out, this gives me a good opportunity to add those little bar thingies on the rudder pedals as described in an old newsletter that prevent you from applying the brakes inadvertently. I have found the Clevelands to be very sensitive, and do not want to be landing with the brakes on. Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 18:54:18 -0700 From: David Turley Subject: KR: Light Activated Visual Fuel Tank Gages for your Stub Wings On the BD-5 the fuel tank gages were made of acrylic rod attached to a flat plate. Basically, there were five or six rods ranging from one to six inches long, with one end bonded to the flat piece of acrylic which was installed flush with the surface of the wing, and the ends of the acrylic rods (1/2" diameter) ground and polished into a cone shape. These ends hung down into the tank. This was a slick setup. When the fuel covers the end of the fuel sensing "rod" the flat plastic plate shows dark. When the rod is not touching fuel the plate shows a white circle where the end of the acrylic rod is bonded. Must work through a reflected light principal. Only works in daylight, needless to say. I hope this isn't too confusing. You just look out of the cockpit windows at the top of the wing. If there are "light circles" on the indictor the tank is empty. Two or three circles meant the tank was half full or thereabouts. All dark means full tanks. No power needed, no panel space, and easy to make from acrylic rod and sheet, all of which should be locally available. - -- David Turley - Silverdale, Washington http://www.hurricane.net/~daturley (for pics of my Horizon and Subaru EA-81 installation) mailto:daturley@hurricane.net ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 11:08:44 -0400 (EDT) From: BSHADR@aol.com Subject: KR: Fuel gauge ideas In a message dated 97-09-09 02:58:49 EDT, you write: << Gauges are another story, I really don't like the idea of spending money for gauges and or installing two more holes in my instrument panel just for aux tanks. Heck they are either full or empty, as they are not used in route. If I must,.. I guess I will devise some sort of sight gauge for these tanks. Anyone know what guys are using for gauges in aux tanks? I know the FARs require a gauge for each tank but are some flying without gauges? >> I've seen the construction of the BD5 set up David spoke of. I can sketch & 'splain it to anyone who is interested at the gathering next week. Just ask me. Randy Stein BSHADR@aol.com Soviet Monica, CA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 08:55:15 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Fuel gauge ideas At 11:08 AM 9/9/97 -0400, you wrote: >I've seen the construction of the BD5 set up David spoke of. I can sketch & >'splain it to anyone who is interested at the gathering next week. Just ask >me. > I need more splaining!!!! I am very interested so fire away or we can talk about it next weekend. ________________________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:12:43 -0400 (EDT) From: BSHADR@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Fuel gauge ideas In a message dated 97-09-09 12:02:16 EDT, you write: << I need more splaining!!!! I am very interested so fire away or we can talk about it next weekend. >> The message David sent on the BD5 gauges makes it seem vewy, vewy simple to me - now that I have seen the finished product. I can't imagine trying to draw and build it from written or verbal instructions alone. The 'ol "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies in this case. We'll do it in Perry next week. Randy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:53:42 -0400 (EDT) From: LVav8r@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: 290 Lycoming In a message dated 97-09-09 02:00:56 EDT, you write: << I bookmarked a page with those 290s for sale about a month ago. I wasn't sure about them because they were using them for snow machines and swamp boats. Let us know how that thing looks when you get it. The price is unbelieveable. Lots of spare parts available too. Bruce S. Campbell Tampa >> Would it be too much to ask if you'd share that url with the group? Tom Kilgore Las Vegas, NV LVav8r@aol.com KR-2S 2% complete __I__ _______( X )_______ o/ \o ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 10:15:57 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: 290 Lycoming At 12:53 PM 9/9/97 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 97-09-09 02:00:56 EDT, you write: > ><< I bookmarked a page with those 290s for sale about a month ago. I > wasn't sure about them because they were using them for snow machines > and swamp boats. Let us know how that thing looks when you get it. The > price is unbelieveable. Lots of spare parts available too. > > Bruce S. Campbell > Tampa >> > > Would it be too much to ask if you'd share that url with the group? Yea I think it would be interesting to see a Lycoming O-290 in a snowmobile myself! ________________________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:05:13 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: Re: Fuel tanks in stub wings Michael MIms wrote: > >I am getting ready to build fuel tanks in the stubs and was curious as to > how much fuel yours hold. Michael, If your stub wings have 1/4 foam all around, you will have about 125 square inches of area left over. Multiply that times the inside length of each tank and divide that by 231 cubic inches per gallon and you'll have it. (125 x 19 inches length) / 231 =10.3 gallons per side. Don't forget to subtract some for sending units, tubing, and the recommended airspace for expansion during the heat of the day. Basically, it's half a gallon for each inch of tank. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL email at langford@hiwaay.net KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford - ---------- > From: Micheal Mims > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: Fuel tanks in stub wings > Date: Sunday, September 07, 1997 11:14 PM > > >At 09:35 PM 9/7/97 -0600, you wrote: > >. > >> my stub tanks now have capacitance level probes/senders installed > >and -They dont leak! This was quite a chore since they should've been > >>installed while building the tanks...... > > > > > >I am getting ready to build fuel tanks in the stubs and was curious as to > how much fuel yours hold. I am thinking I should be able to build a tank > that will hold at least 7 gallons, for a total of 14 in the stubs and 17 in > the header. If I can shoe horn that beast of an engine in the nose of this > thing I will need enough fuel to stay aloft for more than 1.5 hours! :o) > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com > http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand > > \ / > _\/\/_ > _____/_//\\_\_____ > > F-117 > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 19:32:04 +-200 From: Kobus de Wet Subject: RE: KR: Fuel gauge ideas Hey guys please there are those of us sitting here at the bottom end of the African continent who won't make it to the gathering. So could some one please put a picture up of that fuel gauge. I plan on flying my bird within the next two weeks, but would like to have some sort of gauge on my wing tanks before I go long distance. Kobus de Wet ZS-WPX www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/lab/5101 - ---------- From: BSHADR@aol.com[SMTP:BSHADR@aol.com] Sent: 09 September, 1997 14:12 To: krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: Re: KR: Fuel gauge ideas In a message dated 97-09-09 12:02:16 EDT, you write: << I need more splaining!!!! I am very interested so fire away or we can talk about it next weekend. >> The message David sent on the BD5 gauges makes it seem vewy, vewy simple to me - now that I have seen the finished product. I can't imagine trying to draw and build it from written or verbal instructions alone. The 'ol "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies in this case. We'll do it in Perry next week. Randy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 13:34:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Horn2004@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Light Activated Visual Fuel Tank Gages for your Stub Wings In a message dated 9/9/97 7:55:30 AM, you wrote: <> Any chance that these acrylic rods could "wick" static electricity down into the tank? Would make for one hell of a light show, for sure. Steve (if you're not living on the edge, your takin' up too much space) Horn Horn2004@aol.com Dallas, Texas ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 10:44:17 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Re: Fuel tanks in stub wings At 12:05 PM 9/9/97 -0500, you wrote: >Michael, > >If your stub wings have 1/4 foam all around, you will have about 125 square >inches of area left over. Multiply that times the inside length of each >tank and divide that by 231 cubic inches per gallon and you'll have it. >(125 x 19 inches length) / 231 =10.3 gallons per side. Last night I cut the ribs and got a better idea of the CI of the tanks and they end up around 6.8 gallons each, this minus space for this and that I think 6.5 gallons is a reachable target. The tank will be between the spars minus about 1.5 inches (chord wise about 20 inches) just aft of the main spar for the aileron cable and have a span of about 14 or 15 inches. The bottom skin in the area between the spars will be aluminum attached to piano hinge on the main spar and aluminum angle with PK screws on the aft spar, it will be removable to provide access to the bottom of the tank, the aileron linkage, and fuel tank fittings, plus allow inspection access to the landing gear and wings attach bolts. The fuel tanks will be structural to carry any loads the lower fiberglass skin carried. Its gona be slick! ________________________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 11:03:17 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Fuel gauge ideas At 12:12 PM 9/9/97 -0400, you wrote: >The message David sent on the BD5 gauges makes it seem vewy, vewy simple to >me - now that I have seen the finished product. I can't imagine trying to >draw and build it from written or verbal instructions alone. Randy do a simple sketch and send it to my fax at work, I will draw something up to post on the web site under the ideas section, FAX 714.979.0797 Use a cover page please. ________________________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 17:31:24 -0400 (EDT) From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Fuel guages In a message dated 97-09-09 07:44:24 EDT, you write: << He has one electrical fuel guage on his panel with a 3 position rotary selector switch under it. The switch is labelled LEFT, CENTER, RIGHT, which correspond with the position of the fuel tanks. CENTER LEFT RIGHT ^ | + | Thus, he can check the fuel level in any of the tanks at any time with the simple flick of a knob. If you like, perhaps I could persuade him to make us a little schematic. Ed Newbold Columbus, OH >> This is the same idea that I am going to use, only with a momentary contact toggle switch instead of a rotary switch. The center position will give the fuel level of the header tank, and the left and right momentary contact positions will give the readings in the respective stub tanks. This saves you from accidentally leaving the switch set to one of the stub tanks and running your header tank down without realizing it. Not that any of us would ever leave a switch in the wrong position........ Cheers! Rick Junkin EagleGator@aol.com St. Charles MO ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 16:54:35 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR:Brake Pedals At 09:49 AM 9/9/97 -0700, you wrote: >While I have the fuel tank out, this gives me a good opportunity to add >those little bar thingies on the rudder pedals as described in an old >newsletter that prevent you from applying the brakes inadvertently. I >have found the Clevelands to be very sensitive, and do not want to be >landing with the brakes on. > >Tom Crawford >tomc@afn.org >Gainesville, FL > What little bar thingies? Please, tell me more. I must have missed that in the 'ole' newsletters. I the main reoccuring problem that I have with my KR is that I wear out main tire so often (about every 125 hrs). By the way, does anyone have a good way to jack-up a KR to work on the brakes or change a tire? Do you use a jack stand? How? Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 16:54:33 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: airworthiness certificate At 08:29 AM 9/8/97 -0700, you wrote: >Tom Crawford wrote: >> >> Micheal Mims wrote: > >> > The Ellison injector DOES need constant head pressure and some have found >> > they do not operate well on a gravity feed system with smaller fuel lines >> > (1/4 OD or smaller). My friend Brad has one on his Dragonfly (3/8 fuel >> > lines) and it works GREAT! Other Dragonfliers have had trouble ( 1/4 inch >> > fuel lines) and have installed fuel pumps and pressure regulators to cure >> > the problem. If you have 1/4 inch fuel lines I would install a fuel pump / >> > regulator before flying. >> >> Mike, >> >> The Ellison TBI's inlet fitting is 1/4", so I figured it would be >> simplest to make it all 1/4". I did install a fuel pump and have found >> that when the fuel tank is very low, the engine will not even start >> without the fuel pump on. What sort of regulator are you talking about? >> At this point I feel that some modification is in order, and am >> considering just changing it all over to 3/8" lines. Consider it a >> lesson learned. Hey, that's why we call it "experimental" right? >> >> Tom Crawford >> tomc@afn.org >> Gainesville, FL >Tom & Mike, > I was going through some back issues of the printed KR newsletter >looking for electrical system schematics. In the process I found >a couple (3 or so) fuel system routings for Ellison TBI's. ALL had >fuel pumps in the installation. I don't believe Ellison recommends >gravity feed for this carb. I am using 3/8" line from the header >to the gascollator, with 1/4" line to the Ellison as it has a 1/4" >fitting. > I have two fuel pumps, one for each wing tank each fused individually, >and was planning to pump fuel to the header tank and running gravity >feed from the header tank. I am considering re-assigning my fuel >pumps to guarentee fuel pressure at the carb. > > Ellison also recommends a fuel filter down to XX microns. I found a >great AC Delco filter at K-mart with threaded fittings on both ends that >I am using from the header tank to the gascolator, I expect that this >filter may restrict the fuel flow enough that gravity feed may be a >problem for me... I will have to see. > > Also, Ellison recommends providing Carb Heat. > > Everything I've heard about the Ellison TBI says that if installed >properly, they are a lot easier to deal with than a regular carb... >That is no needles to adjust etc. Hopefully I can provide some >actual feedback by the end of the year... I've got to hook up my >electrical. > > -- Ross > > > >-- > > Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE >PIN#895-9073 > SABER Engineering voicemail: (800)538-6838 x >1632 > Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 (Note Area code) > Corvallis,Oregon Mailto:rossy@San-Jose.ate.slb.com > Yea! You guys are making me feel a hold lot better about my POSA that I have been flying trouble free for four years. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 15:37:23 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Fuel guages At 05:31 PM 9/9/97 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 97-09-09 07:44:24 EDT, you write: > ><< He has one electrical fuel guage on his panel with a 3 position rotary > selector switch under it. The switch is labelled LEFT, CENTER, RIGHT, > which correspond with the position of the fuel tanks. > > CENTER > LEFT RIGHT > ^ > | > + > | This is a great idea but I have to use something that doesn't rely on electricity. I think I will go with the BD-5 type gauge. Thanks for the info though! ________________________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 17:27:23 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR:Brake Pedals On Tue, 09 Sep 1997 16:54:35 -0500 Bobby Muse writes: > >What little bar thingies? Please, tell me more. I must have missed that in >the 'ole' newsletters. I the main reoccuring problem that I have with my KR >is that I wear out main tire so often (about every 125 hrs). > >By the way, does anyone have a good way to jack-up a KR to work on the >brakes or change a tire? Do you use a jack stand? How? > > > Bobby Muse(N122B) Bar thingies: spacers you can put across the bottom of the rudder pedal to keep your toes off the brakes since the balls of you feet will be on the spacers instead of directly on the rudder pedals. Think of a 1/2 inch piece of tubing glued or bolted across the face of you brake pedal at the bottom. I found adjusting the stroke on the master cylniders to be the proper fix on my bird. Jacking: I raise the tail of the airplane and slide a stack of styrofoam blocks under the lower longeron at the front spar. Then I pull the tail back down and anchor it so the fuselage is now supported by the foam blocks. You could do the same with your tri-gear by pulling the tail down, setting a stack of blocks under the fuselage (at a known hardpoint) then raising the tail back up and resting it on something (chair, milkcrate, etc) while you do whatever needs to be done to the gear. It's a simple, safe, one man operation. - ------- Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://fly.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:11:04 -0500 From: Jim Faughn Subject: Re: KR:Brake Pedals Bobby Muse wrote: > > At 09:49 AM 9/9/97 -0700, you wrote: > > >While I have the fuel tank out, this gives me a good opportunity to add > >those little bar thingies on the rudder pedals as described in an old > >newsletter that prevent you from applying the brakes inadvertently. I > >have found the Clevelands to be very sensitive, and do not want to be > >landing with the brakes on. > > > >Tom Crawford > >tomc@afn.org > >Gainesville, FL > > > > What little bar thingies? Please, tell me more. I must have missed that in > the 'ole' newsletters. I the main reoccuring problem that I have with my KR > is that I wear out main tire so often (about every 125 hrs). > > By the way, does anyone have a good way to jack-up a KR to work on the > brakes or change a tire? Do you use a jack stand? How? > > > Bobby Muse(N122B) > bmuse@mindspring.com > Wimberly, TX I use a jack with a 2/4 and alot of towels on top of it right behind the fixed gear so the towels are on the main spar. The tires even the load. I jack it up and then do my work. I just changed my tires last weekend using this method and it works well. I'll show you more next weekend. I'm looking forward to seeing you along with the others at the gathering. - -- Jim Faughn N8931JF St. Louis, MO (314) 652-7659 or (573) 465-8039 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 19:00:03 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: fuel guages required Michael Mims wrote: >I know the FARs > require a gauge for each tank but are some flying without gauges? My DAR inspector said that if the tanks are physically connected with no valves between them, one guage is good enough. Of course, this IS Alabama... Lionheart is that way, with left and right tanks on each wing connected directly with tubing. I plan to do the simple thing too, drawing from the right wing tank always (eliminating the valve, and the possibility of putting it in the wrong place) and using the left tank to replenish in flight (555 timer filling it half way in two installments). I've wondered what the best compromise in fuel pickup location is on a taildragger, the lowest point in flight, the lowest point in climb, or somewhere in the middle. My DAR says "Y" the pickup to have an end at each point, and fuel will be picked up (says that's how Piper and Cessna do it). But I sure can't see how sucking fuel is a path less resistant than sucking air, and am quite dubious. Maybe on a high wing, but a low wing? I plan a demo to myself soon, unless somebody else corroborates his story first... As for sloshing left to right, I'll take Jeff Scott's recommendation and build a "header" inside the tank, with one way valves ( in only) to that part of the tank. This could also be used in the fore/aft battle, but maybe the "Y" thing will work. Any experience on this? Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL email at langford@hiwaay.net KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford - ---------- > From: Micheal Mims > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: Shhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!! and other stuff > Date: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 12:27 AM > > I think I will convert both of my DC headsets using these kits, check it out! > > http://www.avweb.com/sponsors/headsets/ > > > Other stuff: > > Well tonight was mostly cleanup night in the garage but I did manage to get > the 1/8 inch plywood ribs cut for fitting between the spars on the stub > wings. I plan to use these ribs as the left and right panels in my stub > tanks, they will have 1/4 clark foam skins (top and bottom) with epoxy and > glass on all sides. > > The numbers indicate they will hold about 6 gallons each, unless of course I > am doing the math wrong! :o) I think these will be neat little aux tanks > and plan to take pictures tomorrow night for the web site. Each tank will > have its own vent (out the bottom skin) and one outlet that will "T" the two > tanks together (ala C-150) and then to a electric fuel pump that will pump > the fuel to the main tank. The inlet to the main tank is just below the > vent level to keep fuel from draining back into the wing tanks. No shut off > or selector valve will be used for the aux tanks. They will basically be > treated as one 12 gallon tank used to refill the main tank. (KIS method > hard at work here!) Fuel transfer will be performed in straight and level > flight only. > > Gauges are another story, I really don't like the idea of spending money for > gauges and or installing two more holes in my instrument panel just for aux > tanks. Heck they are either full or empty, as they are not used in route. > If I must,.. I guess I will devise some sort of sight gauge for these tanks. > Anyone know what guys are using for gauges in aux tanks? I know the FARs > require a gauge for each tank but are some flying without gauges? > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com > http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand > > \ / > _\/\/_ > _____/_//\\_\_____ > > F-117 > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 18:22:33 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Jacking the KR At 17:27 97/9/09 -0600, you wrote: >> >>By the way, does anyone have a good way to jack-up a KR to work on the >>brakes or change a tire? Do you use a jack stand? How? >> >> Bobby Muse(N122B) > >Jacking: I raise the tail of the airplane and slide a stack of styrofoam >blocks under the lower longeron at the front spar. Then I pull the tail >back down and anchor it so the fuselage is now supported by the foam >blocks. You could do the same with your tri-gear by pulling the tail >down, setting a stack of blocks under the fuselage (at a known hardpoint) >then raising the tail back up and resting it on something (chair, >milkcrate, etc) while you do whatever needs to be done to the gear. It's >a simple, safe, one man operation. >Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM I made up a jack point that is made of two lengths of 2x4 wood They are about 8" long (can measure if you wish). Four 3/8" bolts are positioned in pairs at either end. I take out two bolts, slide the open end around the gear near the bottom, then reinsert and tighten the four bolts. Then using a hand operated floor jack, I raise the leg after placing the jack lify point under the inner piece of wood. Works great and is very cheap...except you need a jack. I assume a regular car jack would work as well. Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 18:38:06 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: fuel guages required At 19:00 97/9/09 -0500, you wrote: >I've wondered what the best compromise in fuel pickup location is on a >taildragger, the lowest point in flight, the lowest point in climb, or >somewhere in the middle. My DAR says "Y" the pickup to have an end at each >point, and fuel will be picked up (says that's how Piper and Cessna do it). > But I sure can't see how sucking fuel is a path less resistant than >sucking air, and am quite dubious. Maybe on a high wing, but a low wing? >Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL My intuitive but not necessarily correct opinion is that you will not be transferring fuel.....typically....on the ground. I would pick a point that is about the lowest in normal cruise. IF you lose a half gallon or so...not a problem IF you can still switch to the other wing tank and you have not gotten so far from landing that a nearly full header tank will not get you to a safe place. Depends on how you fly. Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 21:07:59 -0400 (EDT) From: DC4FREE@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: serial number > - ------------------------------------------------------- Advisory Circular 20-27D is on the net in .htm format. I just did a search on 20-27D then printed it out. Along with that was a section on getting the Repairman cert. don't remember the number but you'll see it in once your in the Advisory Circular index. Don Wright N9OHG Everett, WA DC4FREE@AOL.COM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:50:22 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR:Brake Pedals At 05:27 PM 9/9/97 -0600, you wrote: > >On Tue, 09 Sep 1997 16:54:35 -0500 Bobby Muse >writes: >> >>What little bar thingies? Please, tell me more. I must have missed >that in >>the 'ole' newsletters. I the main reoccuring problem that I have with >my KR >>is that I wear out main tire so often (about every 125 hrs). >> >>By the way, does anyone have a good way to jack-up a KR to work on the >>brakes or change a tire? Do you use a jack stand? How? >> >> >> Bobby Muse(N122B) > >Bar thingies: spacers you can put across the bottom of the rudder pedal >to keep your toes off the brakes since the balls of you feet will be on >the spacers instead of directly on the rudder pedals. Think of a 1/2 >inch piece of tubing glued or bolted across the face of you brake pedal >at the bottom. I found adjusting the stroke on the master cylniders to >be the proper fix on my bird. > >Jacking: I raise the tail of the airplane and slide a stack of styrofoam >blocks under the lower longeron at the front spar. Then I pull the tail >back down and anchor it so the fuselage is now supported by the foam >blocks. You could do the same with your tri-gear by pulling the tail >down, setting a stack of blocks under the fuselage (at a known hardpoint) >then raising the tail back up and resting it on something (chair, >milkcrate, etc) while you do whatever needs to be done to the gear. It's >a simple, safe, one man operation. > >------- >Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM >jscott.pilot@juno.com >See N1213W construction and first flight at >http://fly.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: >//www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm > Thanks, I'll try both suggestions this week! Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:50:24 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR:Brake Pedals At 07:11 PM 9/9/97 -0500, you wrote: >Bobby Muse wrote: >> By the way, does anyone have a good way to jack-up a KR to work on the >> brakes or change a tire? Do you use a jack stand? How? >> >> >> Bobby Muse(N122B) >> bmuse@mindspring.com >> Wimberly, TX >I use a jack with a 2/4 and alot of towels on top of it right behind the >fixed gear so the towels are on the main spar. The tires even the load. >I jack it up and then do my work. I just changed my tires last weekend >using this method and it works well. I'll show you more next weekend. >I'm looking forward to seeing you along with the others at the >gathering. >-- >Jim Faughn N8931JF >St. Louis, MO >(314) 652-7659 or (573) 465-8039 > Jim Faughn, one of my favorite people and the BEST friend a gathering ever had... I'm doing my best to get ready to be there. I will be there. I have ordered from GPAS, the "Four into One" exhaust. I hope it gets here in time to make needed mods and test it out before flying to Perry. My current exhaust is getting just too thin. As you may remember, I have the exhaust wrapped and it as been wrapped since day one. After it sits awhile, tapping on the exhaust produces a lot of rust type flakes out the end of the pipes. I getting a little concerned. My four straight out turned exhaust has to go. It sounds great, but it's loud, worn out and has to go. Besides I am told that I may pick up some HP from the "Four into One". Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V1 #93 ****************************