From: Majordomo@teleport.com[SMTP:Majordomo@teleport.com] Sent: Monday, December 08, 1997 2:02 PM To: john bouyea Subject: Majordomo file: list 'krnet-l' file 'v01.n115' -- From: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com (krnet-l-digest) To: krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V1 #115 Reply-To: krnet-l-digest Sender: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Errors-To: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Precedence: bulk krnet-l-digest Monday, October 6 1997 Volume 01 : Number 115 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 14:53:20 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: 97 Gathering page At 06:23 PM 10/3/97 -0700, you wrote: >At 07:34 PM 10/3/97 -0500, you wrote: >>If all of us were to build taildraggers then there wouldn't be enough >propsto go around..... Just an observation..... The rumor about >tail-draggers being hard to fly was actually started by a pilot.... a known >fact..... >> >> >> Bobby Muse(N122B) >> bmuse@mindspring.com >> Wimberly, TX >> >Probably was,...but keep in mind I am just teasing and I really dont want to >start a thread on whats better. >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims > Micheal, I was just teasing too! I'm getting a little afraid to say anything because it might be taken wrong. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 16:33:13 -0400 From: David Batton Subject: KR: antennas I am about to make some of my antennas and need some help. Can someone let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. Thanks in advance. David Batton ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 15:08:12 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: Measuring to fit the stern post At 08:40 AM 10/4/97 -0700, you wrote: >Bobby Muse wrote: >> Hint for all builders: 1. Be creative, it's A.O.K.. >> 2. No one can tell that the left side is >> different from the right side. >> >> Bobby Muse(N122B) >> bmuse@mindspring.com >> Wimberly, TX > >In reguards to Number 2, the air flow can tell. It might be better to say >that if you can't see a significant difference, then the air won't see a >significant difference. >-- >Don Reid >mailto:donreid@erols.com > Actually I was referring to the finish...(ie. the paint scheme on the left side of my KR is different from the right side). Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 15:08:14 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: Measuring to fit the stern post At 10:47 AM 10/4/97 -0400, you wrote: > >In a message dated 10/4/97 12:44:25 AM, you wrote: > ><curves using foam and fiberglass are no problem. Don't be concerned.>> > >Bobby, >Speaking of compound curves....how did you get those nice curves on your >turtledeck. I noticed upon close inspection from the rear that it has very >nice, yet subtle, compound curves running from the rear of the canopy to the >tail. Seems like all the others at Perry were built basically straight back >on the turtledeck. > >Steve Horn >Horn2004@aol.com >Dallas, TX > Steve, The turltedeck, cowling and forward deck were done free-hand. The wing-root was done using a mason jar with non-skid paper glue to it. If it was straight then I used a straight-sander. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 14:56:02 From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: Training wheels (Was Gathering page) At 14:53 97/10/05 -0500, you wrote: >At 06:23 PM 10/3/97 -0700, you wrote: >>At 07:34 PM 10/3/97 -0500, you wrote: >>>If all of us were to build taildraggers then there wouldn't be enough >>propsto go around..... Just an observation..... The rumor about >>tail-draggers being hard to fly was actually started by a pilot.... a known >>fact..... >>> >>> Bobby Muse(N122B) >>Probably was,...but keep in mind I am just teasing and I really dont want to >>start a thread on whats better. >>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >>Micheal Mims >> >Micheal, I was just teasing too! I'm getting a little afraid to say >anything because it might be taken wrong. > > Bobby Muse(N122B) Why worry Bobby? If you can't ruffle a few feathers among friends, where CAN you? Ron "Just pissed off my last friend" Lee ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 15:42:38 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: Terra avionics At 10:02 PM 10/4/97 -0500, you wrote: >Rossy wrote: > >> I was wondering if anyone out there in KRNET land has >> Terra Avionics. > >I don't have them yet, but plan to because you can get com and transponder >in the same panel space as most coms. The downside is that the tray >requires something like 14.25" of clearance behind the panel, so be >prepared. > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL >email at langford@hiwaay.net >KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford > > All of my avionics are Terra. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 17:48:08 +0000 From: darrin Subject: KR: old boat Hey fellows, a quick question concerning wood on an older boat. I purchased an old boat which is very well constructed but shows it's age. It has been varnished on the inside but looks pretty bad. What can I do to spruce up my old looking spruce? Darrin West darrinwest@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 19:30:58 -0400 (EDT) From: LDeckert@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Terra avionics I ordered the Terra xponder, com and encoder in July from Chief Aircraft (good folks!), and was informed the delivery dates were estimated to be : one in Sep, one in Oct and one in Nov (don't know which was which). Anyway, so far nothing has made it. I emailed Trimble/Terra and got a reply that Terra was "about a year behind" and were filling orders in the order they were received, as is Chief. So expect a wait! Larry Deckert Sandy, Utah lots of snips!! << > I was chatting with another pilot last week about Trimble/Terra avionics > and he stated that deliveries are non-existant. Unconfirmed rumor. > > Ron Lee > > PS. If true, it may be associated with a move of Terra to Austin TX which > could clear up before the year 2000. > > I heard from one source that they did not have them "in stock", and there was a hint of a problem, another supplier seemed to have them in stock. I will discover for sure next week when I attempt to lay my grubby hands on some. -- Ross >> ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 18:36:32 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: Re: antenna solder David Batton wrote: >let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. Just plain old run of the mill 60/40 rosin core electrical soldering wire. If you buy it at the electrical store (Radio Shack) and not the plumbing supply place, you'll have the right stuff. Plumbing stuff using has acid core, I think. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL email at langford@hiwaay.net KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford - ---------- From: David Batton To: krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: KR: antennas Date: Sunday, October 05, 1997 3:33 PM I am about to make some of my antennas and need some help. Can someone let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. Thanks in advance. David Batton ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:11:21 -0500 From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Subject: Re: KR: 97 Gathering page >>> >>Probably was,...but keep in mind I am just teasing and I really dont want to >>start a thread on whats better. >>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >>Micheal Mims >> >Micheal, I was just teasing too! I'm getting a little afraid to say >anything because it might be taken wrong. > > > Bobby Muse(N122B) > bmuse@mindspring.com > Wimberly, TX > I think this means a joke :-) And this means sarcasm ;-) Might help to use 'em if you're not sure how your comments might be taken. Ed Janssen > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 21:05:57 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: counterbalances Robert Lasecki wrote: > > I have seen much discussion regarding counterbalancing the elevator and > the aileron counterbalancing is includedin the plans. Is anyone doing > any counterbalancing of the rudder? I counterbalanced mine. It not 100 percent balanced, closer to 50%. A web site is not far behind, so some pics will follow. - -- Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 20:02:07 -0500 From: "Rick Hanson" Subject: Re: KR: FAA & Inspections Ross: Do the RV builders have a net like the KRnet? If so, would you happen to know the address? Rick - ---------- > From: Ross > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: Re: KR: FAA & Inspections > Date: Saturday, October 04, 1997 4:36 PM > > Tom, > At my EAA chapter most of the builders are RV builder... heck I > even got a demo ride in that yellow RV-8 that is on the cover of > Kitplanes this month. But they are generally friendly as long as you > don't bring up how much they will have to pay for a new powerplant > compared to a VW. > Also, to those who would slight the VW powerplant, most the engine > failures I read in the FAA database seemed to be fuel system related. > Sooo... debug the heck out of this before you leave the earth. > > -- Ross > > Tom Brown wrote: > > > > Micheal Mims wrote: > > > > > My experience with EAA members > > > around here hasnt been all that positive, we have a problem with "homebuilt > > > snobs" that's is to say, if you are not building a Glasair, RV, or Lancair > > > 4P then you are nothing more than a piece of scum building a toy that will > > > surely kill you. Ask Robert Covington, he has to deal with it every time he > > > tries to work on his project. > > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > > Micheal Mims > > > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > > > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > > > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims > > > > > > \ / > > > _\/\/_ > > > ____/_//\\_\_____ > > > > > > F-117 > > > All better now! > > > > Mike > > > > Funny you should mention that. I recently joined the Local EAA chapter > > and at the first meeting I introduced myself and told them about my KRs > > project. Prior to me finishing what I had to say one of the many RV fans > > there felt the need to tell me "good luck at 6' you will never fit in > > it" with a attitude. I know what you mean about snobs. > > > > On the more positive side the individual sitting right next to me at the > > same meeting who I also found out later was the tech counslor for that > > chapter, was very interested in my project. He believed in wood built > > aircraft and also pointed me in the direction of another KR builder in > > the local area. > > > > I guess some people today can have no respect for other's interest and > > ambitions. Thank good EAA was not founded on that note. > > > > Tom Brown > > tbrown@pcpros ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:08:09 -0700 From: Ted & Louisa Jones Subject: Re: KR: old boat darrin wrote: > > Hey fellows, a quick question concerning wood on an older boat. > I purchased an old boat which is very well constructed but shows it's > age. It has been varnished on the inside but looks pretty bad. What > can I do to spruce up my old looking spruce? > > Darrin West > darrinwest@juno.com Hi Darrin: This is not a quick answer :-) The easiest thing to do would be to sand down the old varnish and paint it. Nah! Okay, so you want it varnished: strip off any peeling old varnish by scraping it lightly with a paint scraper, being careful not to gouge the wood. Probably you'll need to use paint remover to get all the old varnish off. I like a strong professional stripper, 5F5 is one, but wear gloves and eye protection, and make sure you have plenty of ventilation. Despite what it says on the can, you may need to do the paint remover thing 3 or 4 times. Any dark spots in the wood can be lightened with bleach. Regular Clorox from the laundry room works pretty well. Severe cases may need oxolic acid from the pharmacy. Spruce may not bleach well, but when it's all stripped and bleached you can decide if the varnish is worth the effort. Up to this point you haven't wasted any effort except the bleach if you end up painting it. You'll need 3 coats of varnish, minimum. If any varnish will be exposed to sunlight, you'll need spar varnish which has a strong UV inhibitor. Buy the expensive stuff made for boats; this is not the place to skimp. Urethane is okay, but it's hard to beat the old fashioned turps-based spar varnishes for a durable finish. If much of the varnish work will be exposed to sunlight for long periods, and especially if the boat is used in salt water, you'll need six coats. Sand between coats. If you have some clear epoxy lying around from your KR project, a thin coat will help seal the wood, especially if it's very dry. You'll still need 6 coats of spar varnish as most epoxies don't have any UV inhibitors. After the wood is well sealed with the second or third coat, I like to use waterproof sandpaper -- 320 and then 400 grit. It's a lot of work, especially on the inside where you have frames and stringers to work around, but when you're done, you'll have a finish a fly will break his legs on. In a harsh environment you may need to apply an additional coat (sanded first) in mid season. Minimum, at least one coat every year. When the varnish looks dull, it's time for a new top coat. Sounds like work -- not for the faint of heart. Ted (my unfinished boat is in NC but I'm in NH) Jones ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:16:51 -0700 From: Ted & Louisa Jones Subject: Re: KR: Re: antenna solder Mark Langford wrote: > > David Batton wrote: > > >let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. > > Just plain old run of the mill 60/40 rosin core electrical soldering wire. > If you buy it at the electrical store (Radio Shack) and not the plumbing > supply place, you'll have the right stuff. Plumbing stuff using has acid > core, I think. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL > email at langford@hiwaay.net > KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford Correct. I like to put on a dab (use a toothpick) of rosin flux on the joint to make sure there is a good flow and solid electrical contact. Practice on some scrap pieces first. If the finished joint is nice and shiny, you have a good joint. If its dull, you have a "cold" joint which may not conduct well. But you knew that. Ted Jones Center Harbor, NH > > ---------- > From: David Batton > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: antennas > Date: Sunday, October 05, 1997 3:33 PM > > I am about to make some of my antennas and need some help. Can someone > let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. > Thanks in advance. > > David Batton ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 04:06:54 GMT From: bbland@busprod.com (Brian Bland) Subject: Re: KR: FAA & Inspections RICK GO TO http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/ AND SIGN UP FOR THE RV LIST JUST ABOUT LIKE KRNET> Brian J. Bland Claremore, OK Building Stretched, Widened KR-2S bbland@busprod.com http://www.busprod.com/bbland/kr2s.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 23:21:05 -0700 From: Tom Brown Subject: KR: Progress Report Krnetters After three long days devoted to nothing but my KR project I finished my fuselage side panels and got the fuselage up on the jig board. I did not find much trouble bending the sides on the jig table with skins on. I have 40" at the rear spar (Widest point). Where I am having some trouble is getting the stern post to line up with the longerons for a good glue joint. Two different angles that are hard to work. I have the longerons close to where they need to be however I lost an inch to my tail. I have 10.25 from the last vertical member instead of 11.25. I figure I will go ahead and glue the belly cross members in and then put some sandpaper on a stern post made of pine and sand the longerons to bring them home. I figure it will be easier working the longerons when the fuselage holds its shape a little better. Please comment if you have been through this step and see a problem down the road for me. Seeing the fuselage up on the table that some what resembles a airplane is motivating. Okay so it looks like a boat to a lot of people in my eyes it�s a airplane. Time to do this web page thing. Now that I have some photos of my project. As soon as I find a way to get them scanned I will get a web page started for all to see. Comments welcome Tom Brown tbrown@pcpros.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 21:58:50 -0700 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: antennas David, Soldering wire? You want to use electronic solder, rosen core, can buy this at Radio shack. You can also get the COAX there too, I don't recall if it is 50ohm or 75ohm. I think 50ohm, but I'm not 100% sure. Do a web search for RST electronics on the Internet, they have some terrific information online, and also available for purchase on building your own antennas. -- Ross David Batton wrote: > > I am about to make some of my antennas and need some help. Can someone > let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. > Thanks in advance. > > David Batton ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:01:59 -0700 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: EAA "Snobbery" Ted & Louisa Jones wrote: > > My experience has been that pilots in general tend to be snobbish until > they find out that you are one of them -- especially, when they find out > that you have more hours and higher ratings than they do -- ;o), but > it's too bad when this gets in the way of genuine communication. If we > communicate as Ross has done, we may have an influence in keeping EAA on > the right track, and let's not forget that we'd all be doing something > else if it weren't for the continuing support and proselytizing of the > EAA. > > No apology necessary, Ross. > > Ted Jones > (in Cow Hampsha) I deny all knowledge of that rambling post. I had way too much coffee at the EAA meeting, and was wired until 3:00AM. Really ruined Sunday as the weather cleared up in the morning. I popped into the FBO to return the key to the lounge we meet in, and wished I had had 8 hours of sleep, it was great flying weather... now it's rain rain rain again. -- Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:03:56 -0700 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: Terra avionics LDeckert@aol.com wrote: > > I ordered the Terra xponder, com and encoder in July from Chief Aircraft > (good folks!), and was informed the delivery dates were estimated to be : one > in Sep, one in Oct and one in Nov (don't know which was which). Anyway, so > far nothing has made it. I emailed Trimble/Terra and got a reply that Terra > was "about a year behind" and were filling orders in the order they were > received, as is Chief. So expect a wait! > This is really POOPY! Hmmm...thinking of alternate plan "B". > Larry Deckert > Sandy, Utah > > lots of snips!! > > << > I was chatting with another pilot last week about Trimble/Terra avionics > > and he stated that deliveries are non-existant. Unconfirmed rumor. > > > > Ron Lee > > > > PS. If true, it may be associated with a move of Terra to Austin TX which > > could clear up before the year 2000. > > > > > I heard from one source that they did not have them "in stock", and > there was a hint of a problem, another supplier seemed to have them > in stock. I will discover for sure next week when I attempt to lay > my grubby hands on some. > > -- Ross >> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 00:08:19 -0700 From: David Moore Subject: Re: KR: Re: antenna solder Yes very important, the solder used in electronics is 60/40 rosen core solder, the type used in plumbing is acid core. The acid core is to help clean the pipe as it is being soldered, it is to acidy for electronic components and will actually cause the electronic component to deterreate and connections to break. Read the end of the roll of solder, it will say 60/40 rosen core. Dave Moore At 06:36 PM 10/5/97 -0500, you wrote: >David Batton wrote: > >>let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. > >Just plain old run of the mill 60/40 rosin core electrical soldering wire. >If you buy it at the electrical store (Radio Shack) and not the plumbing >supply place, you'll have the right stuff. Plumbing stuff using has acid >core, I think. > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL >email at langford@hiwaay.net >KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford > >---------- >From: David Batton >To: krnet-l@teleport.com >Subject: KR: antennas >Date: Sunday, October 05, 1997 3:33 PM > >I am about to make some of my antennas and need some help. Can someone >let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. >Thanks in advance. > > >David Batton > > > David Moore Turnkey1@MSComm.Com Hesperia, Calif. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 00:26:33 -0700 From: David Moore Subject: Re: KR: antennas Dave, the web site you want is: http://www.rst-engr.com This is the site for Radio Systems Tech. there are several good articles by Jim Weir on antenna's for plastic airplanes, and also avionics kits. In fact, I have a copy of the Plastic Airplane ion my archives (file cabinet). Dave Moore At 04:33 PM 10/5/97 -0400, you wrote: >I am about to make some of my antennas and need some help. Can someone >let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. >Thanks in advance. > > >David Batton > > > David Moore Turnkey1@MSComm.Com Hesperia, Calif. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 07:06:00 -0400 (EDT) From: JEHayward@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: antennas In a message dated 97-10-05 16:38:34 EDT, you write: << I am about to make some of my antennas and need some help. Can someone let me know what type of soldering wire to use on the connectoins. Thanks in advance. David Batton >> Use rosin core solder for any electronic work, Dave. Jim Hayward ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 08:18:07 -0700 From: Ted & Louisa Jones Subject: Re: KR: Progress Report Tom Brown wrote: > > > Seeing the fuselage up on the table that some what resembles a airplane > is motivating. Okay so it looks like a boat to a lot of people in my > eyes it�s a airplane. Tom: When you sit in it, if the sound you make is putt-putt, it's a boat. If the sound you make is varoom-varoom, it's an airplane. Works every time! Ted (nothing to do in NH but hack on the internet) Jones > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 07:22:37 -0600 From: "jeb" Subject: KR: Another test Testing test test test ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 07:09:36 PDT From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: EAA Hello, KRNetters I really apologize to everyone (especially RossY) for the problems and repeated re-posts that I may have caused through my Juno account. As you can see, I'm trying out another freebie: HotMail (just can't bring myself to pay for stuff that I might can get for free). I just opened my inbox and found 139 new messages. That's what happens when a guy goes home for the weekend to do some chores. I have to comment on EAA and the thread that's been unwinding lately. The only way I came to know about the KR, and hundreds of other fascinating aircraft, was through EAA. Up until the day that I noticed a Sport Aviation in a box in my instructor's office, I thought there was only one way to fly: in an FAA-approved, licensed, placarded, airworthy, Wichita/Vero Beach, spam can. All of a sudden, I woke up to a world where people could dream, build, experiment, and...FLY! I borrowed all the SA's he had- several cases of them- and got no sleep for months. I saw so many dreams take wing, with so many guys and girls standing next to them, grinning, that I just knew that this world was for ME. I saw ideas pop up in the pages there, that a year or two later were commercial realities, but originally cooked up in somebody's garage or shop. THIS IS WHERE REAL AVIATION IS! Again I say: if you're not in it for the FUN and EXCITEMENT, then you're probably a turbo pusher with epaulets and some bigwig telling you where to fly him/her. I feel sorry for pro pilots who don't get any enjoyment out of their 1000's of hours. I must agree with Jeff about the recent direction of the home EAA organization, however. The article I most remember in SA was many pages long, with many photographs, by a gentleman who built a Tailwind and documented the many clever mods/tweaks he used. Absolutely fascinating. Not many of those stories today- they're mostly about award-winning Glasairs or restored DeHavillands. I still read them all- cover to cover- but sure used to get into those stories by the little guys building the little ships. I know EAA has a glossy image to uphold, being a big player now, but we all miss Tony and the backyard boys. I am not a member of a local chapter, nor have I ever attended a chapter meeting. Not out of dislike, but because I have too many irons in the fire. If you KRNetters formed a chapter that could meet in one of y'alls workshop- I WOULD GO! I think this is where it needs to start, and where everybody really wants it to be, in honesty. There is nothing more motivating than to sit around a project while the folks all toss out ideas or listen while it's explained how a certain slick trick was done- and actually see it right there in front of you, and feel the wood and glass, and sit in it. Then everybody goes home fired up to jump into their own project! At least, that's what it does for me. Thanks again for this forum. I joined the AirSoob list a while back, and I can say that this (KRNet) is far more interesting and friendly. Maybe I just jumped in at a bad time over there, but it's nice to have you builders (and pilots) so close at hand to jump in with help and answers, rather than get jumped on for a technical difference of opinion. I have a touchy subject for next time (2-strokes). Gotta get my information together first, though. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 11:07:16 -0500 (CDT) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: Re: KR: FAA & Inspections On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, Donald Reid wrote: > Micheal Mims wrote: > > > I am not a member of the EAA or any EAA chapter for that matter > > and don't plan to be in the near future. My experience with EAA members > > around here hasnt been all that positive, we have a problem with "homebuilt > > snobs" that's is to say, if you are not building a Glasair, RV, or Lancair > > 4P then you are nothing more than a piece of scum building a toy that will > > surely kill you. Ask Robert Covington, he has to deal with it every time he > > tries to work on his project. > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Micheal Mims > > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims > > You must live in an upscale neighborhood. I belong to two chapters and we have > a full range of types; some that would not build a plane under any > circumstances, to ultralights, to Glassairs. My experience with EAA has been > great. This has been my experience also, our chapter has about 14 planes under construction. Everything from a Lancair IVP to a Quickie with the Cozy's, Glassair's KR's and everything else in between thrown in for good measure. Great bunch of Guys and Girls - Chapter 21, Evansville, IN Steve Eberhart newtech@newtech.com KR-2S - making hot wire templates for the tail. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 12:25:14 -0400 From: smithr Subject: Re: KR: FAA & Inspections .> I just took pictures for my "album" and was told that would do just fine. > The FAA doesn't have the manpower any longer to do what they used to do. > > Jim Hayward I also took pictures before closing my spars but regret that the quality of these pictures was not what it could have been. Wish that I took more pictures with more close-ups. Bob Smith ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 12:42:50 +0000 From: darrin Subject: Re: KR: old boat Ted & Louisa Jones wrote: > > darrin wrote: > > > > Hey fellows, a quick question concerning wood on an older boat. > > I purchased an old boat which is very well constructed but shows it's > > age. It has been varnished on the inside but looks pretty bad. What > > can I do to spruce up my old looking spruce? > > > > Darrin West > > darrinwest@juno.com > > Hi Darrin: > > This is not a quick answer :-) > > The easiest thing to do would be to sand down the old varnish and paint > it. Nah! Okay, so you want it varnished: strip off any peeling old > varnish by scraping it lightly with a paint scraper, being careful not > to gouge the wood. Probably you'll need to use paint remover to get all > the old varnish off. I like a strong professional stripper, 5F5 is one, > but wear gloves and eye protection, and make sure you have plenty of > ventilation. Despite what it says on the can, you may need to do the > paint remover thing 3 or 4 times. > > Any dark spots in the wood can be lightened with bleach. Regular Clorox > from the laundry room works pretty well. Severe cases may need oxolic > acid from the pharmacy. Spruce may not bleach well, but when it's all > stripped and bleached you can decide if the varnish is worth the effort. > Up to this point you haven't wasted any effort except the bleach if you > end up painting it. > > You'll need 3 coats of varnish, minimum. If any varnish will be exposed > to sunlight, you'll need spar varnish which has a strong UV inhibitor. > Buy the expensive stuff made for boats; this is not the place to skimp. > Urethane is okay, but it's hard to beat the old fashioned turps-based > spar varnishes for a durable finish. If much of the varnish work will be > exposed to sunlight for long periods, and especially if the boat is used > in salt water, you'll need six coats. Sand between coats. If you have > some clear epoxy lying around from your KR project, a thin coat will > help seal the wood, especially if it's very dry. You'll still need 6 > coats of spar varnish as most epoxies don't have any UV inhibitors. > After the wood is well sealed with the second or third coat, I like to > use waterproof sandpaper -- 320 and then 400 grit. > > It's a lot of work, especially on the inside where you have frames and > stringers to work around, but when you're done, you'll have a finish a > fly will break his legs on. > > In a harsh environment you may need to apply an additional coat (sanded > first) in mid season. Minimum, at least one coat every year. When the > varnish looks dull, it's time for a new top coat. > > Sounds like work -- not for the faint of heart. > > Ted (my unfinished boat is in NC but I'm in NH) Jones Hey Ted, thanks for the detailed instructions but I think we have a slight mis-comunication thing going. I am refering to the "boat" of a kr! I hope to never "use" it in salt water!! As for stripper, would this effect the glue joints any or should I just sand and apply a new coat of varnish? Darrin West ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Oct 97 17:29:38 GMT From: mathewrz@iafrica.com (Rob Matthews) Subject: KR: "P" leads Hi Krnetters Does anyone know what the minimum resistance of coaxial cable must be for the P lead before it causes interferance with ones radio. I was wanting to use TV coax cable but need to know if it would be enough to suppress the interferance caused by the points in the magneto and the spark plugs. I went to buy some cord (aircraft spark plug cord with silicone covering) and i nearly fell on my back. They want something like US$ 17.00 per meter. A slight bit expensive for me. Any comments welcomed. Regards - -- Rob Matthews Have a nice day South Africa email mathewrz@iafrica.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 14:44:03 -0600 From: Adrian Carter Subject: Re: KR: old boat darrin wrote: Ted & Louisa Jones wrote: > > darrin wrote: > > > > Hey fellows, a quick question concerning wood on an older boat. > > I purchased an old boat which is very well constructed but shows it's > > age. It has been varnished on the inside but looks pretty bad. What > > can I do to spruce up my old looking spruce? > > > > Darrin West > > darrinwest@juno.com > > Hi Darrin: > > This is not a quick answer :-) > > The easiest thing to do would be to sand down the old varnish and paint > it. Nah! Okay, so you want it varnished: strip off any peeling old > varnish by scraping it lightly with a paint scraper, being careful not > to gouge the wood. Probably you'll need to use paint remover to get all > the old varnish off. I like a strong professional stripper, 5F5 is one, > but wear gloves and eye protection, and make sure you have plenty of > ventilation. Despite what it says on the can, you may need to do the > paint remover thing 3 or 4 times. > > Any dark spots in the wood can be lightened with bleach. Regular Clorox > from the laundry room works pretty well. Severe cases may need oxolic > acid from the pharmacy. Spruce may not bleach well, but when it's all > stripped and bleached you can decide if the varnish is worth the effort. > Up to this point you haven't wasted any effort except the bleach if you > end up painting it. > > You'll need 3 coats of varnish, minimum. If any varnish will be exposed > to sunlight, you'll need spar varnish which has a strong UV inhibitor. > Buy the expensive stuff made for boats; this is not the place to skimp. > Urethane is okay, but it's hard to beat the old fashioned turps-based > spar varnishes for a durable finish. If much of the varnish work will be > exposed to sunlight for long periods, and especially if the boat is used > in salt water, you'll need six coats. Sand between coats. If you have > some clear epoxy lying around from your KR project, a thin coat will > help seal the wood, especially if it's very dry. You'll still need 6 > coats of spar varnish as most epoxies don't have any UV inhibitors. > After the wood is well sealed with the second or third coat, I like to > use waterproof sandpaper -- 320 and then 400 grit. > > It's a lot of work, especially on the inside where you have frames and > stringers to work around, but when you're done, you'll have a finish a > fly will break his legs on. > > In a harsh environment you may need to apply an additional coat (sanded > first) in mid season. Minimum, at least one coat every year. When the > varnish looks dull, it's time for a new top coat. > > Sounds like work -- not for the faint of heart. > > Ted (my unfinished boat is in NC but I'm in NH) Jones Hey Ted, thanks for the detailed instructions but I think we have a slight mis-comunication thing going. I am refering to the "boat" of a kr! I hope to never "use" it in salt water!! As for stripper, would this effect the glue joints any or should I just sand and apply a new coat of varnish? Darrin West Hi Darren, Me thinks that your in for some elbow grease. It is not a good thing to put any liquid on your plywood. Sanding is the only way to do this properly. Any moisture of any kind can loosen the plys and this is not what you not want , tried this with MEK and got a bubble on my plywood. So had to chuck the plywood. Air blow it so the the pores are opened and not full of wood powder. Good Luck! Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 16:23:34 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: KR: Web Site Help This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------59CF2FF05B4 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I need some help. I am tearing out hair that I can't afford to lose. This is for the Webmaster type's out there. I made up a fairly simple web site, stealing ideas and such from a number of people. It looked OK when trying it out from my system here at home. Then I uploaded it to my service provider. So far so good. When I do to my directory at http://www.erols.com/donreid/, I see all of the files I put there. I can get each one to download by clicking on the icon in that directory. When I go to my home page at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm, it loads up fine, except it doesn't get the plane image that I ask for. I have three secondary pages, each having its own link from the home page. These do not work. If I go to the secondary pages by clicking on their icon in my directory, they load up fine, but no images come through. From the secondary pages, I can return to my home page or go to any of the other links I added to the rest of the world. HELP! Does anyone have any advice? The service provider is not real big on Tech Support. - -- Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm - --------------59CF2FF05B4 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="donreid" Index of /donreid

Index of /donreid

 Name                   Last modified     Size  Description

 Parent Directory       03-Oct-97 05:50      -  
 BIO.HTM                06-Oct-97 13:09     1k  
 HOLDOWN.JPG            06-Oct-97 12:45    45k  
 KR_PICS.HTM            06-Oct-97 13:09     2k  
 MUGSHOT.JPG            06-Oct-97 12:46    43k  
 PLANE1.JPG             06-Oct-97 12:47    65k  
 SPAR.JPG               06-Oct-97 12:47    40k  
 SPECS.HTM              06-Oct-97 13:09     4k  
 STICK.JPG              06-Oct-97 12:48    42k  
 STUBWING.JPG           06-Oct-97 12:48    76k  
 TAPERJIG.JPG           06-Oct-97 12:49    64k  
 kr_page.htm            06-Oct-97 13:08     3k

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