From: Majordomo@teleport.com[SMTP:Majordomo@teleport.com] Sent: Thursday, October 30, 1997 7:24 AM To: john bouyea Subject: Majordomo file: list 'krnet-l' file 'v01.n153' -- From: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com (krnet-l-digest) To: krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V1 #153 Reply-To: krnet-l-digest Sender: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Errors-To: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Precedence: bulk krnet-l-digest Thursday, October 30 1997 Volume 01 : Number 153 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 01:15:35 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: main spar holes Don, Good luck on your PE exam! Trick or Treat! -- Ross Donald Reid wrote: > > Jed Whitford wrote: > > I have never actually built one of these so I'm just speaking from my > > knowledge of engineering. If it's unavoidable than the RR have probably > > looked into it otherwise they run the risk of liability cases. Anyway if > > you have to do it you have to do it I'm just saying if you can avoid it > > then this is a good idea but if you have no choice than that is what has to > > be done. > > Jed Whitford > > > > We are going a bit overboard on this one. The maximum stress levels will > occur at the junction of the spar and the fuselage. The stress levels inside > the fuselage will decrease to approximately half that at the wing root. The > stress levels outside of the fuselage will decrease as the distance from the > fuselage increases. The main spar center section is uniform in all > dimensions for approximately 20 inches outboard of the fuselage. Therefore, > the margin to safety increases the farther away you get from the wing root, > both inside and outside the fuselage. Keep the holes to a minimum in number > and size, and as far away from the fuselage sides as possible, and it just > won't matter. > > -- > Don Reid > Taking the Professional Engineering license exam on 10/31/97 in Mechanical > Engineering. > mailto:donreid@erols.com > http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 01:18:17 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals Donald Reid wrote: > > enewbold@sprynet.com wrote: > > > > I'm still prepping the KR-1 I got from Bill Reents, and would like to know if > > anyone has any good ideas for a nice cover for the wing gap where the wings > > bolt onto the stubs. > > How about a vinyl trim tape. The same kind used for N numbers. That should be > heavy enough to bridge the gaps and flexible enough to form. > -- > Don Reid > mailto:donreid@erols.com > http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm If I recall, High Preformance sailplanes use that stuff to seal up the wing root and other areas just before those nifty contests. If it's good enough for an $80,000 sailplane, maybe a KR? -- Ross ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 01:26:45 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: main spar holes Don, Thanks again for sheding some light into a dark spar hole. I have saved your post for the Builder's tips section. It may never make it out, but then again it may. I will make it "General Recommendations for spar holes" or somthing like this. At any rate, it sounds sound. - -- Ross Peter Hudson wrote: > > Donald Reid wrote: > > > We are going a bit overboard on this one. The maximum stress levels will > > occur at the junction of the spar and the fuselage. > > Very true, Here's my tips: > > 1) Avoid the wing/fuse junction for any holes. > 2) Also you're better off with the holes in the upper cap than the lower > (if you have a choice) The compressive flight loads will carry through > the fastener shank if it's a snug fit. > 3) The best approach for any big loads you're trying to feed into the > spar is to put in a verticle member between the caps and put the > fasteners in the verticle member. > 4) For openings in the plywood shear panel for feed throughs etc, put on > a ring doubler > to carry the shear around the hole. EXAMPLE: for a 1" hole, bond on > about a 3" OD ring around the hole (of the same thickness as the web). > 5) Don't put holes near the edges of the caps. If you put some through > the cap then put them through the MIDDLE of the cap. > 6) based on the historical KR data there's not a problem with the > occasional 1/4" fastener through a spar cap horizontally. Don't go > crazy but I wouldn't worry about a couple more if they're not close to > any other holes. > 7) if it's a big hole and you're in doubt then beef up the structure to > equivelant strength. If you not sure just ask. There's enough of us > that can figure it out and we'll help. > > that's all for now > > -Peter Hudson- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 01:30:23 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: Old glue, Desert air :( I'm thinking that for "a)" structural adheasive and perhaps some flox would do the trick. You could test this on some test blocks of 5/8" spruce to see what kinds of sloppy epoxy wet joints you can make, and see what happens when you break them. I think the flox will make an unbeatable combination, this is based on the number of things I have "floxed" into position on the garage floor, and the workbench. - Ross Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 05:46 PM 10/29/97 -0800, Peter Hudson wrote: > > >a) Fill the gaps with epoxy and live with the questionable bond > >strength. > >b) add fiberglass fillets between the skins and longerons etc to assure > >adequate shear transfer to the longerons from the skins (the uprights > >are in compression and the corner blocks aren't as critical on those) > > >I'm leaning towards b) for critical structure and a) for non-critical > > > >Do any of you have any other ideas or thoughts on it? > > I have heard re-gluing joints that have gaps is acceptable and the flox / > fiberglass method would be more than adequate, don't you think? > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:55:21 +0200 From: "PIERRE & ANTON FOUCHE'" Subject: KR: Re: Old glue, Desert air :( Hi All Peter ,maybe you sould consider using a "Resin Cotton Flox" mix to fill the gaps, as a resin cotton flox mix is structural. Just an idea ! Cheers all Anton Fouche' P-I-F@pixie.co.za South Africa - ---------- > From: Peter Hudson > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: Old glue, Desert air :( > Date: 30`30, October 30, 1997 03:46 > > Well gang, > > I just brought my fuselage home from the airfield so I can start on it > again after I paint this last wing panel. This fuselage boat as you may > recall was built by someone else many years ago. After sitting in the > desert air for these last 10 months the wood has finally achieved > equalibrium with the surround dry air. Unfortunatly the induced > shrinkage has popped some of the old AEROLITE glue joints. They are > stuck on well enough that removing them would damage a lot of good wood > but I cant just leave them. I figure my options are. > > a) Fill the gaps with epoxy and live with the questionable bond > strength. > b) add fiberglass fillets between the skins and longerons etc to assure > adequate shear transfer to the longerons from the skins (the uprights > are in compression and the corner blocks aren't as critical on those) > c) Break out everything questionable and fix all the damage. > d) build a flat table, get some more drawings and...nah. > > I'm leaning towards b) for critical structure and a) for non-critical > > Do any of you have any other ideas or thoughts on it? > > -Peter- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:55:21 +0200 From: "PIERRE & ANTON FOUCHE'" Subject: KR: Re: Old glue, Desert air :( Hi All Peter ,maybe you sould consider using a "Resin Cotton Flox" mix to fill the gaps, as a resin cotton flox mix is structural. Just an idea ! Cheers all Anton Fouche' P-I-F@pixie.co.za South Africa - ---------- > From: Peter Hudson > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: Old glue, Desert air :( > Date: 30`30, October 30, 1997 03:46 > > Well gang, > > I just brought my fuselage home from the airfield so I can start on it > again after I paint this last wing panel. This fuselage boat as you may > recall was built by someone else many years ago. After sitting in the > desert air for these last 10 months the wood has finally achieved > equalibrium with the surround dry air. Unfortunatly the induced > shrinkage has popped some of the old AEROLITE glue joints. They are > stuck on well enough that removing them would damage a lot of good wood > but I cant just leave them. I figure my options are. > > a) Fill the gaps with epoxy and live with the questionable bond > strength. > b) add fiberglass fillets between the skins and longerons etc to assure > adequate shear transfer to the longerons from the skins (the uprights > are in compression and the corner blocks aren't as critical on those) > c) Break out everything questionable and fix all the damage. > d) build a flat table, get some more drawings and...nah. > > I'm leaning towards b) for critical structure and a) for non-critical > > Do any of you have any other ideas or thoughts on it? > > -Peter- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:27:56 +0200 From: "PIERRE & ANTON FOUCHE'" Subject: Re: KR: Fw: RE HAPI Engines Hi All Thanks Ross I'll get onto WICKS for my copy. Anton Fouche' P-I-F@pixie.co.za - ---------- > From: Ross > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: Re: KR: Fw: RE HAPI Engines > Date: 26`26, October 26, 1997 10:09 > > Anton, > > I'm sorry, I didn't offer to copy Rex Taylor's book. > If you had a specific question I could look it up and > send you the information. > > Copies of the book are still available through Aircraft > Spruce. > > I have to be careful about giving away copies of things > still in print... (sorry). > > I felt bad about this so I went looking to find it in the > ACS and Wicks catalog... it is not available from ACS, but > Wicks carries it. > PG 147 P/N RT-1 Price $20.00 (USD) > "How to build a reliable VW engine" > This book includes case S/N's acceptable for engine use > if you plan on scrounging a case. However as Rex says in > the book, you can end up spending $$$ on a case that is no > good, and might be better off buying new components. > I have first hand experience with this after buying an > engine for $125 in '90 and finding it was too far gone > for align boring (1 oversize). > > -- Ross > -- Ross > > PIERRE & ANTON FOUCHE' wrote: > > > > ---------- > > > > > > > > Hi Bobby > > > > > > > > Thanks for the offer for the specs from your dad. > > > > > > > > YES PLEASE !!! A copy will be much appreciated. > > > > Sorry the reply is so long in coming , I've been all > > > > over the country but home this week. > > > > > > > > Regards > > > > Anton Fouche' (ZS-UUJ) > > > > P-I-F@pixie.co.za > > > > Johannesburg, South Africa > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 17:50:13 -0800 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: main spar holes Ross wrote: > > I assumed that each spar cap had a neutral axis through the middle > of it's cross section, and attempted to drill the holes at this point. The spar as a whole system has a neutral axis, and it is near the center of the spar. The spar caps do not. The neutral axis is where there is no tensile or compressive stress. In box spar under positive G's, the bottom cap is under tension and the top cap is under compression. The neutral axis will be through the shear web. - -- Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 18:02:27 -0800 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: main spar holes and gear placement MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > > I was thinking of moving the main gear outward ten > inches or so away from the side of the fuselage to get it away from > the prop wash. This would be a better place for drilling holes but with > the gear farther out it seems to me that it would put more force on the > spar at the fuselage. Since the leverage on the spar seems to be > increased now that the gear attachment is farther out. Will this be a > big deal and reason to worry about the spar?? Or is the spar strong > enough that it will not matter?? > Thanks > > Marvin McCoy > Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net > ------------------------ It should work, but I haven't run the numbers yet. More to follow. - -- Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 06:48:50 -0600 From: " Mike Filbrandt" Subject: KR: Re: T-Shirt idea in progress [Fwd: Hello Ross!] Ross, Sounds good to me! Are they all gonna be T's, or are you gonna have some polo's done too? Just wondering. Blue Skies, Mike - ---------- > From: Ross > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: T-Shirt idea in progress [Fwd: Hello Ross!] > Date: Thursday, October 30, 1997 2:02 AM > > I asked Carlos Sa, if it would be OK to use the KRNET logo for a KRNET > T-Shirt. (As seen on http://www.krnet.org) > > I'm thinking that since it is so close to the end of the year this > would have to be a KRNET '98 T-Shirt. > > What I'm thinking of is a white T-Shirt, with the KRNET Rotating Globe > Logo on the Front. (No it won't be moving, unless you jump up and down) > With the web address http://www.krnet.org below it > > On the back it would have "KRNET '98" and two columns of the 175 member > email addresses. > > What do you think of the idea. Proceeds from the sale of these shirts > would go to support KRNET and other activities in support of KR > builders. > > I've got a local source for T-Shirts here in Corvallis, and will > eventually get back to everyone on rough pricing ideas. > > -- Ross ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:07:30 -0600 From: " Mike Filbrandt" Subject: KR: Re: T-Shirt idea in progress [Fwd: Hello Ross!] Hey Ross, Thought of a P.S. to my previous reply. Any thought on a pocket for those of us who don't wait for second-hand smoke? Of course they work for other things too. L8TR, Mike - ---------- > From: Ross > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: T-Shirt idea in progress [Fwd: Hello Ross!] > Date: Thursday, October 30, 1997 2:02 AM > > I asked Carlos Sa, if it would be OK to use the KRNET logo for a KRNET > T-Shirt. (As seen on http://www.krnet.org) > > I'm thinking that since it is so close to the end of the year this > would have to be a KRNET '98 T-Shirt. > > What I'm thinking of is a white T-Shirt, with the KRNET Rotating Globe > Logo on the Front. (No it won't be moving, unless you jump up and down) > With the web address http://www.krnet.org below it > > On the back it would have "KRNET '98" and two columns of the 175 member > email addresses. > > What do you think of the idea. Proceeds from the sale of these shirts > would go to support KRNET and other activities in support of KR > builders. > > I've got a local source for T-Shirts here in Corvallis, and will > eventually get back to everyone on rough pricing ideas. > > -- Ross ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 06:40:42 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: T-Shirt idea >I'm thinking that since it is so close to the end of the year this >would have to be a KRNET '98 T-Shirt. > >What I'm thinking of is a white T-Shirt, with the KRNET Rotating Globe >Logo on the Front. (No it won't be moving, unless you jump up and down) >With the web address http://www.krnet.org below it > >On the back it would have "KRNET '98" and two columns of the 175 member >email addresses. Personally, I am a stodgy old fart. I would prefer a golf shirt with ONLY the emblem on the left chest area....maybe add "98 KR Gathering" underneath it on the front. No email addresses for me. Ron "Never can please him" Lee ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 06:09:21 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: T-shirt Hey, Ross- 1. Who's gonna read all them little e-mail addresses on the back, anyway? 2. If it don't have a KR on it somewhere, it'll never fly . 3. Boy, do I like the idea of a polo with a pocket and a KRNet emblem. Just probably cost a lot more than your plain-jane T-shirt, I'll bet. Oscar ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:44:40 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: T-Shirt idea Ron Lee wrote: > > Personally, I am a stodgy old fart. Heywaidaminit!! I resemble that remark! > I would prefer a golf shirt with ONLY the emblem on the left chest > area....maybe add "98 KR Gathering" underneath it on the front. > No email addresses for me. I'd prefer the golf shirt too. Didn't we do this thread last year with "T-Shirt Vinnie" as the protagonist? BTW, I just sent Malcolm Hartman a check for his KR plans. I can almost hear the spruce trees trembling with fear :o) Patrick - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:41:06 From: "Troy Johnson" Subject: KR: Shirts I vote golf shirt!! ************************************************************* If at first you don't succeed.....so much for skydiving! Troy A. Johnson WYLE Electronics 1955 E. Sky Harbor Circle North Phoenix, AZ 85034 (602)-495-9953 (602)-416-2158 (direct) ************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 17:24:11 +-200 From: Kobus de Wet Subject: RE: KR: Retractable U/C hinge brackets OK OK THATS IT. AS FROM NOW U/C WILL BE (ULTIMATE CRAFT) LIKE IN KR AND THATS IT OK. TKS (Thanks) Kobus AJ, Your right, however at 1:00AM U/C looked like RC, which is what got me into trouble.... -- Ross A. J. Mendes Pereira wrote: > > Actually U/C means "Control Line", and not "Radio Control" as you mentioned. > The "U" as to do with the "U" shaped control handle we use to control the > model aircraft flying around in the 50' (+-) circle around us. I guess you > were close enough for the subject, andyou'd have to be a hard core modeller > to know that. We forgive you... > > Keep on building > Antonio > Portugal > -----Original Message----- > From: Ross > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Date: Domingo, 26 de Outubro de 1997 1:21 > Subject: Re: KR: Retractable U/C hinge brackets > > >Kobus, > > > >My apolgies... It took me a while to decode U/C into "landing gear" > >my brain kept coding U/C to R/C (radio control). So I thought that > >others who were up at 1:00AM might need the translation. It was > >late, and I apologize for the posting. > > > > -- Regards > > Ross > > > >Kobus de Wet wrote: > >> > >> Ross, > >> For reasons of simplicity in South Africa we use the term Under Carriage > >> (U/C) for both fixed and retractable, as very few commercial or military > >> aircraft today still have fixed U/C. You must bear in mind that we not > only > >> have to put up with American Daftness, we also have French, English, > >> German, Italian and lately also Russian Terminology. As the first > >> commercial and military aircraft we came into contact with were British > we > >> took on their terminology as the standard and stuck to it. The American > >> terminology is definitely in the minority as almost all the other > countries > >> mentioned above use a system very close to the British system. Sorry > about > >> all this but the original reason for the letter regarding the cracked > hinge > >> bracket were for reasons of safety and to inform other KR-2 owners and > >> operators of a problem that I found on my aircraft. I do not recall > asking > >> for a lecture on the aircraft terminology as used in the USA. > >> > >> Thanks Kobus > >> > >> Kobus, > >> I think this was one of the reasons that the Retract Gear has lost > >> ground to the fixed gear or Under Carrage (U/C for those who drive on > >> the left.) > >> > >> -- Ross > >> > >> Kobus de Wet wrote: > >> > > >> > The reason that ZS-WPX has not been airborne yet is because I found two > >> of > >> > the three U/C hinge brackets cracked. These are the brackets that > >> attaches > >> > to the U/C beam and rotates around the bolt in the bracket against the > >> > spar. > >> > Both these brackets are castings of very poor quality. There is no way > >> that > >> > I can determine if these brackets came from RR (USA) or from a local > >> > supplier that was dealing out of Lanseria Airport (Pretoria area) > >> > The bottom line is it does not matter where these come from, what does > >> > matter is that all builders and operators should have a good look at > >> their > >> > U/C hinges. > >> > The cracks runs through the outer two holes in the brackets. > >> > > >> > Its hell to get those bracket out of there. Making up a set out of > 4130 > >> > > >> > Kobus (might be flying soon) de Wet > >> > > >> > South Africa > >> > >> -- > >> > >> Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE > >> PIN#895-9073 > >> Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x > >> 1632 > >> Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 (Note Area code) > >> Corvallis,Oregon Mailto:rossy@San-Jose.ate.slb.com > >> > >> Name: WINMAIL.DAT > >> WINMAIL.DAT Type: unspecified type (application/octet-stream) > >> Encoding: x-uuencode ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:42:45 -0600 From: "Hartman, Malcolm L (New Orleans JRB)" Subject: RE: KR: main spar holes and gear placement Marvin, You need to think about your differential braking before moving the gear legs that far from the fuselage. It may get very sensitive with an additional twenty inch moment. M. Hartman/N926FW >---------- >From: Donald Reid[SMTP:donreid@erols.com] >Sent: Thursday, October 30, 1997 8:02PM >To: krnet-l@teleport.com >Subject: Re: KR: main spar holes and gear placement > >MARVIN MCCOY wrote: >> >> I was thinking of moving the main gear outward ten >> inches or so away from the side of the fuselage to get it away from >> the prop wash. This would be a better place for drilling holes but with >> the gear farther out it seems to me that it would put more force on the >> spar at the fuselage. Since the leverage on the spar seems to be >> increased now that the gear attachment is farther out. Will this be a >> big deal and reason to worry about the spar?? Or is the spar strong >> enough that it will not matter?? >> Thanks >> >> Marvin McCoy >> Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field >> Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net >> ------------------------ > >It should work, but I haven't run the numbers yet. More to follow. >-- >Don Reid >mailto:donreid@erols.com >http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:45:29 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: Re: KR: T-shirt I will take a polo with the logo. Not interrested in the email addresses on the back. Steve On Thu, 30 Oct 1997, Oscar Zuniga wrote: > Hey, Ross- > > 1. Who's gonna read all them little e-mail addresses on the back, > anyway? > > 2. If it don't have a KR on it somewhere, it'll never fly . > > 3. Boy, do I like the idea of a polo with a pocket and a KRNet emblem. > Just probably cost a lot more than your plain-jane T-shirt, I'll bet. > > Oscar > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:02:17 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals At 01:13 AM 10/30/97 -0800, Ross wrote: >Ed, > I haven't looked at solving this yet myself, but I was thinking of >preparing aluminum or glass cover strips. At one point velcro came >into mind, but it's a long story. > -- Ross Netters, When I build my outer wings my plan was to foam the entire wing, includeing the gap where the outer wings bolt on. I had plan to glass over this area and leave it. I dont see any reason I would need to pull the wings off in the future. I dont plan on bringing the project home because I have a hanger to keep it in. Am I missing anything? Is there a reason the wing have to be made removable? Thanks! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 17:27:20 -0800 From: "John F. Esch" Subject: Re: KR: Type-4 Engine What type of hamberger or hamburger are we talking about? Micheal Mims wrote: > At 05:02 PM 10/29/97 -0800, Robert Covington wrote: > >Well he couldn't blame it on a Mac. ;) Just wouldn't happen. > > What the heck does a Hamberger from McDonalds have to do with this? > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:05:51 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals Micheal Mims wrote: > > Netters, When I build my outer wings my plan was to foam the entire wing, > includeing the gap where the outer wings bolt on. I had plan to glass over > this area and leave it. I dont see any reason I would need to pull the > wings off in the future. I dont plan on bringing the project home because I > have a hanger to keep it in. Am I missing anything? Is there a reason the > wing have to be made removable? I can think of a few reasons that they should be: 1. In the event you need to make major repairs or modifications later and you would rather work in your shop instead of the hangar. 2. In case the wing structure(read spar) is ever damaged and needs to be replaced. 3. In case you ever have to dead-stick into a landing site that you are unable to take off from. None of these are things you like to think about or plan for, but they need to be considered. Patrick - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:58:19 From: "Troy Johnson" Subject: Re: KR: Visit to Mike's Ross, Thanks for the info....I have yet to check into the EAA chapter there but since it is the closest one I will be doing so soon... Let me know when you are in town and if you have extra time, we'll get together and talk KR's.....Troy At 12:27 AM 10/30/97 -0800, you wrote: >Troy, > > There are several completed KR-2's in the Phoenix area. If you >hook up with the EAA Chapter at Falcon Field, there was one retired >gentleman who had his hangared there. Another was hangered in Glendale >but the owner lived in Tempe. Then there was the gentelman who had >his in Chandler, but sold it around '90... I don't know where it went. > > Too bad I moved. I will be in Town over Christmas, I plan to sneak >in an hour or two of dual in the nice weather at Chandler Air Service. > > -- Ross > >Troy Johnson wrote: >> >> Okay gang, >> >> Here is my official report on my visit to Mike Mims' project: >> >> Somebody get me a garage 'cause I am ready to start building! >> >> If anyone out there is considering a project or is stagnating on theirs, >> find someone nearby and request some time to take a peek at what they are >> doing, it will definitely get the blood flowing. I feel fortunate in >> getting to see Mike's as he has made a lot of "improvements" to his that >> coincide with some things I have been dreaming of doing. He also pointed >> out some things he would do differently were he to do over again. >> >> I believe it would be beneficial for anyone to visit someone else's project >> to see what other people have done and to find out what problems they had >> and things they would change. It is one thing to read and see pictures on >> the net, quite another to put your hands on actual work and climb around >> and poke your head in different corners. >> >> Congrats to Mike on the beautiful workmanship he has done to this point, >> and good luck with the rest of the project. I will probably be bugging him >> again soon since I am out his way fairly frequently...hear that >> Mike?....I'll be back.... >> >> So, is there anyone out there building in Arizona? >> >> Troy "primed and ready to build" Johnson >> ************************************************************* >> >> If at first you don't succeed.....so much for skydiving! >> >> Troy A. Johnson >> WYLE Electronics >> 1955 E. Sky Harbor Circle North >> Phoenix, AZ 85034 >> (602)-495-9953 >> (602)-416-2158 (direct) >> >> ************************************************************* > ************************************************************* If at first you don't succeed.....so much for skydiving! Troy A. Johnson WYLE Electronics 1955 E. Sky Harbor Circle North Phoenix, AZ 85034 (602)-495-9953 (602)-416-2158 (direct) ************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:55:32 -0600 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR:Rudder Pedals Shelf or Floor At 01:24 AM 10/29/97 -0500, you wrote: >In a message dated 97-10-27 01:27:14 EST, you write: > >>By the way, I mounted my rudder >>pedals on the shelf and they work great. Master cyclinders can be a problem >>but I mounted the master cyclinders to the front of the main spar. I >>activate the cyclinders using Scwinn bicycle cables and a bellcrank. Easy >>to service. > >Could you give more details on this? I saw a design in one of Tony >Bingelis's books on how to have MECHANICAL toe brakes with cables. Is this >actuation design like that one? > >Mike Taglieri > I'm not familiar with Tony's design but this what I did: After mounting the rudder pedals on the lower shelf on the Firewall, I didn't like many idea I could muster that allowed the rudder pedals to be directly connected to master cyclinders. The rudder pedals are copied from the KR Manual. The master cyclinders are mounted to the front side of the main spar with the bleed screw facing up. The piston arm of the master cyclinder is mounted stationary at the top of the spar by means of a 90 degree alumnium angle. The main body of the master cyclinder(now the bottom end) is attached to one end of a bellcrack. The center of the bellcrank is mounted to a bracket attached to the bottom of the main spar. The bellcrank is mounted in such a way that by pulling on one end on the bellcrank will cause the master cyclinder main body to lift thus creating pressure against the piston. A bicycle cable connects the rudder pedal to the bellcrank. The bellcrank is installed such a way that a push on the rudder pedal pulls on the cable which pulls on the bellcrank. The bellcrank lifts the master cyclinder causing pressure on the piston which creates pressure on the brake wheel cyclinders. I hope this help to understand what I did. This works great for me and it fixed the problem created by installing my rudder pedals hanging down from the lower shelf. The best solution is to follow the plans. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 15:16:20 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: KR: hapi 60hp for sale The following just popped up on r.a.marketplace: On 30 Oct 1997 11:50:01 -0700, sherwood@primenet.com wrote: >HAPI VW 60hp >less than 50 TT >All accessories > >$1500 obo > >Located in Los Angeles > >Dan >sherwood@primenet.com - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net The GMC Motorhome Page http://www.gmcmotorhome.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:20:39 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals At 01:05 PM 10/30/97 -0500, Patrick Flowers wrote: >I can think of a few reasons that they should be: I guess each case will be different, in my case (see replies below each) > >1. In the event you need to make major repairs or modifications later >and you would rather work in your shop instead of the hangar. > The hanger is MY shop >2. In case the wing structure(read spar) is ever damaged and needs to >be replaced. > If its damaged I can just use a cut off wheel to cut the skin and unbolt the outer wings >3. In case you ever have to dead-stick into a landing site that you are > unable to take off from. > Won't happen because I am not using a VW :o) (just joking VW guys!) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:47:36 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: lead casting Hey netters Who out there has had "perfect" successful lead casting experiences? I have casted my own bullets (yea Im a gun packing republican, so what!!) but I had machined molds made from aluminum. What is the best for casting lead? Wet sand , damp sand, dry sand, wood? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 14:25:52 -0700 From: cartera Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 10:20 PM 10/29/97 -0700, cartera wrote: > >Hi Ed, > >As a suggestion, try some of the suppliers that supply marking tape > >for basketball floors. It is plastic and pliable. You can get it in > >different colors and witdths. I used 2" wide, white for my wing to > >cover the gap. Worked real good! Hope this helps. > >-- > >Adrian VE6AFY > >cartera@cuug.ab.ca > >http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera > > > > Adrian! How the heck are you? I have missed you here on the net! > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims Hi There Ol' Buddy, Have not been doing the best this CFS/Fibromyalgia has been getting me down for the past little while. Looks like your coming right along with your bird. Also, enjoy your common sense remarks and philosphy that I read on the group. Take Care and Good Luck! - -- Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V1 #153 *****************************