From: Majordomo@teleport.com[SMTP:Majordomo@teleport.com] Sent: Thursday, December 11, 1997 3:37 PM To: john bouyea Subject: Majordomo file: list 'krnet-l' file 'v01.n155' -- From: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com (krnet-l-digest) To: krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V1 #155 Reply-To: krnet-l-digest Sender: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Errors-To: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Precedence: bulk krnet-l-digest Friday, October 31 1997 Volume 01 : Number 155 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 22:04:14 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals At 08:59 PM 10/30/97 -0700, Jeffrey E Scott wrote: >Glass it together. If you ever ding the plane and have to move it by >highway, you can always cut through the glass then. Mine would have been >glassed together if I could have finished it at the airport. BTW, Roy >Marsh glassed his together. I doubt that Ron has cut the wings off. > So did Troy Petteway. I just don't see any reason to ever bring this thing home after its at the airport! Mike "glassing outer wing gaps" Mims ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 22:09:31 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: lead casting At 09:59 PM 10/30/97 -0700, Jeb wrote: >I used cardboard as per manual, 1st try I didn't >use enuf tape and ruined my formica countertop >but next two came out OK, a little filing/grinding >and they're the right weight too. Great Ideas guys! Thanks! I have the Tony B books and have read through his ideas too and thought I would share them, he says to use wood, cement, plaster, or sand mixed with old engine oil. I could have just read the book first (actually I did) but the idea was to get some info out to those who may not have all the reference materials as we do! Good Job! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 19:18:20 -0800 From: MARVIN MCCOY Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals Micheal Mims wrote: > > > > I dont see any reason I would need to pull the > wings off in the future. I dont plan on bringing the project home because I > have a hanger to keep it in. Am I missing anything? Is there a reason the > wing have to be made removable? Thanks! >--------------------- You might want to sell it some day and the new buyer may want the wings removable. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net - ------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 19:22:02 -0800 From: MARVIN MCCOY Subject: Re: KR: main spar holes and gear placement - -------------------- Good point. Thanks everyone for your answers. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net - ---------------------- Hartman, Malcolm L (New Orleans JRB) wrote: > > Marvin, > > You need to think about your differential braking before moving the > gear legs that far from the fuselage. It may get very sensitive with an > additional twenty inch moment. > > M. Hartman/N926FW > > >---------- > >From: Donald Reid[SMTP:donreid@erols.com] > >Sent: Thursday, October 30, 1997 8:02PM > >To: krnet-l@teleport.com > >Subject: Re: KR: main spar holes and gear placement > > > >MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > >> > >> I was thinking of moving the main gear outward ten > >> inches or so away from the side of the fuselage to get it away from > >> the prop wash. This would be a better place for drilling holes but with > >> the gear farther out it seems to me that it would put more force on the > >> spar at the fuselage. Since the leverage on the spar seems to be > >> increased now that the gear attachment is farther out. Will this be a > >> big deal and reason to worry about the spar?? Or is the spar strong > >> enough that it will not matter?? > >> Thanks > >> > >> Marvin McCoy > >> Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > >> Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net > >> ------------------------ > > > >It should work, but I haven't run the numbers yet. More to follow. > >-- > >Don Reid > >mailto:donreid@erols.com > >http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 06:54:52 -0800 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: lead casting Jeffrey E Scott wrote: > > On Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:47:36 -0800 Micheal Mims > writes: > >Hey netters > > > >Who out there has had "perfect" successful lead casting experiences? I > have > >casted my own bullets (yea Im a gun packing republican, so what!!) but > I > >had machined molds made from aluminum. What is the best for casting > lead? > >Wet sand , damp sand, dry sand, wood? > >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > >Micheal Mims > > For lack of any better ideas, I actually read the plans and built them > according to the book. Since I wasn't happy with the finish, I hammered > the lead "pig" into the desired shape, then packed it in flox. Sanded > the flox down and packed it with micro. Then I sanded to the finish I > wanted. I don't know that everyone would want to do it that way. It > just worked for me. > > ------- > Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM > jscott.pilot@juno.com > See N1213W construction and first flight at > http://fly.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: > //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm Mike, I used 1/2" ply for molds. It smokes a bit, and make sure you use several layers of duct tape on the seams. I then shaped them with a wood rasp. If you try to drill them, use a slow speed and lots of oil. Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 05:57:31 -0800 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR:Redneck Pilots Austin Clark wrote: > You might be a redneck pilot if ....... > You use the relief tube to empty out your spit cup. - -- Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 06:08:27 -0800 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: lead casting Donald Reid wrote: > I used a piece of pine 2 X 4 (for the rest of the world, that is a 4cm X 9cm) > and cut out the shape to mold, clamped it to a piece of scrap steel for a > bottom, and poured in the molten lead. The wood smoked and chared, but that > was all. I even used the same piece for both castings. After I tried > drilling them for mounting bolts, and wasted two perfectly good drills, I got > smarter. For my rudder balance, I used #8 lead shot, mixed with epoxy in a > slurry. Smaller shot would probably work better. This was quick and easy. > There may be better ways, by the slurry worked great. I forgot to add something. On my elevator and rudder, I have tip extensions made from foam and glass. I removed the foam and then poured in the lead/epoxy slurry. This method would not work in an external balance weight and I don't think you could cast this in a removeable mold very well. - -- Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 07:19:54 -0600 From: Robert Lasecki Subject: Re: KR: lead casting Micheal Mims wrote: > > Hey netters > > Who out there has had "perfect" successful lead casting experiences? I have > casted my own bullets (yea Im a gun packing republican, so what!!) but I > had machined molds made from aluminum. What is the best for casting lead? > Wet sand , damp sand, dry sand, wood? > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims Mike; I have successfully made both counterweights for the tail surfaces without any difficulty using scraps of aluminum for the molds. Just be sure that the aluminum isn't too thin or it will severely distort when the hot lead is poured in. Bob Lasecki Chicago @ 600+ hours and still plodding along ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 05:37:46 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Caution, N262TC Roger, Two Tango Charlie- CLEARED TO LAND! Caution wake turbulence departing KRNetters outbound to their shops to join formation! Oscar "still on paper" Zuniga Medford, Oregon ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 08:58:14 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: lead casting Micheal Mims wrote: > > Hey netters > > Who out there has had "perfect" successful lead casting experiences? Michael, You've gotten several excellent suggestions. I'll offer one more. Scrap aluminum sheeting can be folded and bent to complex shape to form a mold. If you want a flat piece, you can form a wall of aluminum sheet and set in on an aluminum plate. you should get very little leakage, but I would do this on a concrete floor, just to be safe. Patrick - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 06:28:35 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Studying the plans >Ross wrote: >Oscar, > Yep you can! There will be up times and down times, at least there >were for me. Now I'm PUMPED, the last year or two with KRNET has >really helped me pace myself. I'm tuned for this, Ross. I can't imagine it being a steady, 100% effort for 2 years; gotta be some ups 'n' downs. Kinda like Robert Covington right now- he needs some pumping to build Side #2. > Your description of the plans is right on target. If you don't >have Tony Bengellis' books, Got 'em. Cut my teeth on 'em. >If you are like me you will spend as much time browsing the ACS and >Wicks catalogs as you will browsing the plans in the next few years. > Yes, I can relate. Besides my Bible, I keep catalogs, manuals, magazines in every place I might get time to read. My wife wonders what the attraction of all those catalogs is, though. And I got some STRANGE stares from wife & daughter last night, when I folded out one of the big drawings onto the kitchen table for the first time. "Dad, you're not really going to fly in THAT, are you? What are all the little sticks for? Who checks it before you fly it?" >Along with the KR manual, the Wicks catalog used to have a section >breaking out kit components, this was VERY useful, as it details many >items such as the control cable size, and other things not given in >the manual. This allows you to purchase all or some of your kit >direct from Wicks and or ACS or any other supplier, as you will know >what you need to buy. I bought my canopy, sling-seat, control stick, >and flap control from Rand, most everything else arrived in small UPS boxes. > Yes, I have studied these info sheets quite a bit. That's how I'm learning. >Instead of worrying about ordering the entire spruce kit, you could >just build up your table, and order the 5/8" stock and begin laying >out and building your sides. This won't cost too much $$$ and you >can order your spar caps (the hard to get stuff) and build in the >meantime. Or ask Wicks/ACS if they can ship the 5/8" stock first. >When I started there was a long wait for spruce so this might work >if it happens again. Ross, you just don't get it, do you? You've been in the shop too long, man! Have you looked OUTSIDE your shop lately? See them green things over yonder? They're DOUGLAS FIRS. We cut them up to make sticks out of. They have to cost less than spruce, and if that means +10 pounds and saving $600, I can go for it. I will use fir. > >You will have to laminate your spar caps (most likely) Maybe not. See them trees out there? Some of 'em are kinda tall, right? I see SPARS out there. > >Make lots of Test blocks out of the 5/8" stuff, and I dare you to >try to shear the joints. The best I could do was to hammer them >and see the wood splinter. Really builds confidence in your wood >joints. > > -- Ross > I'm planning to do this, Ross. Then Mims and I are gonna make a big bonfire with the broken pieces. Wanna join us on the ramp at Chino? - -Oscar ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 07:02:25 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Digital Cam batteries This from PC Magazine (John Dvorak): ...rechargeable nicads would give me three times as many photos on a Kodak DC-50 as alkalines, which died shortly after 40 or 50 pictures... ...A battery engineer explained that a digital cam needs amps fast to charge the CCD and that alkalines are not designed to do this well because their internal resistance is much higher than nicads. ...But the clear winner in this is the Energizer AA "high-energy" lithium battery... shot about 600 pictures before the batteries gave...included a lot of flash shots. Afterward, the batteries powered a flashlight for about 10 times as long as alkaline. You can do the math on the cost-effectiveness of each battery. Just avoid alkalines! FWIW Oscar Zuniga ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 07:44:42 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Digital Cam batteries At 07:02 AM 10/31/97 PST, Oscar Zuniga wrote: >...But the clear winner in this is the Energizer AA "high-energy" >lithium battery... shot about 600 pictures before the batteries >gave. For those of you who haven't discovered Lithium batteries yet I suggest you do so! They are incredible! All the major battery manufactures make them but you NEVER see an adds for them. I have had the same set of lithium batteries in my Apple Newton for almost a year, alkalines lasted 30 days. If you have a hand held GPS or Comm I can almost guarantee it will run four times as long on lithiums as it does on alkalines. Yes they are about twice as much as alkalines but WELL worth it! PS I put a set in my Casio Digital Camera during Perrykosh and they are still going strong! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 09:11:33 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Picture only web site For those of you who are interested in seeing a pictures only web site of most of my construction photos, you can go to: http://www.nas.com/~mporadun/mims.htm I was just checking it out, its pretty cool! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:38:04 -0700 From: cartera Subject: Re: KR: N262TC Flies! Tom Crawford wrote: > > 1400EST 10-30-97 > Weather- > Wind- calm > Vis- 10 miles > Ceiling- 10,000 broken > > No excuses! today is the day. Engine sounds good. One more fast taxi > down the active. The plane tracks well, quickly gets up to 45 mph, fast > taxi down the 5000' runway. No problem. This time I line up on 024, give > it a bunch of throttle, and am off like a rocket. I am making sure that > it tracks down the center line while speed is building and realize that > I have a lot more throttle left, so I firewall it. I am expecting the > plane to fly off but it doesn't. My C of G is on the foreward line. At > 65 MPH I ever so slowly start to pull back on the stick. It Flies! Next > thing I know, I am climbing out at 1000fpm and 90 to 100mph. I was very > carefull with the elevator, but it was not a problem. No PIO's. It flew > like I thought it should-responsive. I climbed to 1500' and stayed over > the field. All gauges were in the green except the oil temp was pushing > 230-240. OAT was 80 degrees. I leveled off and it came down to 230 and > seemed to stay there, even in cruise. I dont remember any of the other > numbers as I was pretty preoccupied with the oil temp. Decided this was > too hot and powered back and got in the pattern. Did a fast U-turn type > pattern at about 100mph, somehow got down to about 70 mph over the > fence. Floated quite a ways, then flared a little too early- ballooned > up a bit so I gave it a little throttle, eased back, flared again, and > made a decent landing. Walked away from it anyway. > > My impressions now? The plane flys great. Not hard to control at all. > This is coming from a low time pilot with less than 1 hour right seat > time in a KR. Was It worth 1800 hours labor over 2 years? You bet. > > Now, about this oil temp problem..... > > Tom Crawford > tomc@afn.org > Gainesville, FL > N262TC Congratulations Tom, how's that feeling in the pit of your stomach? ;-) Now the fun starts and you will be rewarded well for all your efforts. - -- Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:13:02 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: Re: Construction Manual At 23:58 10/30/97 -0500, you wrote: > I suppose we could offer it to her and then > she could start selling it. >> > > >Whoa, nothing I write is for sale. Not by me, and not by anyone else. If I >write it, and you can use it, it's yours for the asking. Period. >... >Rick Junkin Sadly, placing intellectual property ( fancy term for created works) in the public domain as a generous act means people can do with it what they wish - including altering and reselling it. So you need to retain a copyright to prevent its resale. Brian brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:26:24 -0800 From: "Gary Lee" Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals You might want to check the torque on the wing attach bolts. Gary - ---------- > From: MARVIN MCCOY > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals > Date: Thursday, October 30, 1997 7:18 PM > > Micheal Mims wrote: > > > > > > > > I dont see any reason I would need to pull the > > wings off in the future. I dont plan on bringing the project home because I > > have a hanger to keep it in. Am I missing anything? Is there a reason the > > wing have to be made removable? Thanks! > >--------------------- > > You might want to sell it some day and the new buyer may want > the wings removable. > > Marvin McCoy > Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net > ------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:32:00 -0500 From: Robert Moreland Subject: Re: KR: Picture only web site Nice pics mike. Tell me about your landing geer. Robert Morleland ranland@worldnet.att.net Micheal Mims wrote: > > For those of you who are interested in seeing a pictures only web site of > most of my construction photos, you can go to: > > http://www.nas.com/~mporadun/mims.htm > > I was just checking it out, its pretty cool! > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:36:01 -0800 From: David Moore Subject: Re: KR: N262TC Flies! Tom, What a terrific report, I AM REALLY ENVIOUS, you make it sound like a walk in the park, congratulations and please keep us informed. Dave Moore At 06:26 PM 10/30/97 -0800, you wrote: >1400EST 10-30-97 >Weather- >Wind- calm >Vis- 10 miles >Ceiling- 10,000 broken > >No excuses! today is the day. Engine sounds good. One more fast taxi >down the active. The plane tracks well, quickly gets up to 45 mph, fast >taxi down the 5000' runway. No problem. This time I line up on 024, give >it a bunch of throttle, and am off like a rocket. I am making sure that >it tracks down the center line while speed is building and realize that >I have a lot more throttle left, so I firewall it. I am expecting the >plane to fly off but it doesn't. My C of G is on the foreward line. At >65 MPH I ever so slowly start to pull back on the stick. It Flies! Next >thing I know, I am climbing out at 1000fpm and 90 to 100mph. I was very >carefull with the elevator, but it was not a problem. No PIO's. It flew >like I thought it should-responsive. I climbed to 1500' and stayed over >the field. All gauges were in the green except the oil temp was pushing >230-240. OAT was 80 degrees. I leveled off and it came down to 230 and >seemed to stay there, even in cruise. I dont remember any of the other >numbers as I was pretty preoccupied with the oil temp. Decided this was >too hot and powered back and got in the pattern. Did a fast U-turn type >pattern at about 100mph, somehow got down to about 70 mph over the >fence. Floated quite a ways, then flared a little too early- ballooned >up a bit so I gave it a little throttle, eased back, flared again, and >made a decent landing. Walked away from it anyway. > >My impressions now? The plane flys great. Not hard to control at all. >This is coming from a low time pilot with less than 1 hour right seat >time in a KR. Was It worth 1800 hours labor over 2 years? You bet. > >Now, about this oil temp problem..... > >Tom Crawford >tomc@afn.org >Gainesville, FL >N262TC > > David Moore Turnkey1@MSComm.Com Hesperia, Calif. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:37:38 -0500 (EST) From: BSHADR@aol.com Subject: KR: HAPI Engine for sale KRNetheads: This was one the DragonFly list: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Must sell HAPI 1835cc w/new float bowl carb. Compete with engine mount &wood 56X28 propeller w/ flange. Logged 67 hours on engine log. Make offer to Ron in Virginia at 804 693 5186 or E-Mail phantom2@visi.net. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Randy Stein BSHADR@aol.com Soviet Monica, CA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:10:22 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Picture only web site At 01:32 PM 10/31/97 -0500, Robert Moreland wrote: >Nice pics mike. Tell me about your landing geer. > >Robert Morleland >ranland@worldnet.att.net Robert, that landing gear is borrowed from a wrecked cherokee 120. I picked it up for $50 and rebuilt both legs for around $40. I spent maybe $20 on materials to mount them. They have standard 1.250 inch axles and brake mounting brackets. They are Air-Oil oleo. They weigh about 11 pounds each as you see them on the airplane. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 16:18:18 -0500 (EST) From: BSHADR@aol.com Subject: KR: Slick 50 KRNetters: After coming home from the Fleetwood Mack concert (boy are they old, course after looking in the mirror I'm keeping up with them in the wrinkle department) and not feeling a need for my normal 5 hours of sleep last Friday night, I saw one of those famous late night "Slick 50" engines runs without oil in the crankcase. Interesting stuff for late night TV watchers, but I haven't a clue about the viability in aircraft use. Well the past week or so, the Soob list has been having discussions about synthetic oil and such. In the Soobs, synthetics seem to harden the seals to the same Rockwell hardness of driveway concrete. So the guys who know say no to synthetics. Now you may ask, what about the Slick 50 I blabbed about. Well, this was the remark from the pioneer who tried it in an engine: <<...do not use Slick 50 or any other other teflon based products in any engine lubricating oil. It is a slow death for all seals. Wonderful for bearings but not good at all for any type of seals now available. This knowledge cost me several hundred dollars but you may have it for free.>> So if you guys need a new thread (and to give Oscar more stool...errrr, reading time) anybody have thoughts they care to share about lubrication in VWs? I know Steve Bennett said only regular auto oil. I did read an article a number of years ago and they said unused oil, under a microscope, looks like little flat squiggly noodles. After it is "worn out" it looks broken up into little bits. Apparently the longer the noodle, the better it functions as a lubricant. Forget the recycled oil idea in any engine of value. You can make the oil clean, but ya can't make the "noodles" long again. My opinions only. Any of you guys care to set me straight on my understandings ie this oil stuff? (Like I needed to ask) :-) Randy Stein BSHADR@aol.com Soviet Monica PS - Tom, you dog - Congrats on the success of our latest KR chicklette leaving terra firma. Keep the flight reports coming. Jeff Scott apparently is having to much fun to bother to post any more about his flights in his new KR. Geez, let a guy fly to a KRKosh once and he forgets about all of the poor saps (well me anyhow) that don't have flying KRs to fondle. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 17:31:18 -0600 From: John Roffey Subject: Re: KR: Michigan Kr's David Batton wrote: > > Sorry about the personal post, but my hard drive CRASHED 4 days ago and > I lost EVERYTHING! :( Will the gentleman in northern (?) > Michigan who was gonna meet me at Metetal, please mail me again. > Thanks!! > > David Batton Hi Dave. Thanks for using the term "gentleman" so loosely. Sorry to hear of your hard drive crash. Better it than your plane. John Roffey in Fort Gratiot. (a suburb of Port Huron) jeroffey@tir.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 18:10:48 -0600 From: John Roffey Subject: Re: KR: lead casting Patrick Flowers wrote: > > Micheal Mims wrote: > > > > Hey netters > > > > Who out there has had "perfect" successful lead casting experiences? > > > Michael, > > You've gotten several excellent suggestions. I'll offer one more. > Scrap aluminum sheeting can be folded and bent to complex shape to form > a mold. If you want a flat piece, you can form a wall of aluminum sheet > and set in on an aluminum plate. you should get very little leakage, > but I would do this on a concrete floor, just to be safe. > > Patrick > -- > Patrick Flowers > Mailto:patri63@ibm.net Patrick, I just had to respond to your suggestion on pouring molten lead on a concrete floor. This is very dangerous as concrete will "pop" when exposed to very high temerature and throw hot lead at you , use a piece of sheet steel or tin on a piece of plywood to support your mold and insulate your floor. Please! John Roffey jeroffey@tir.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 18:26:24 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: lead casting John Roffey wrote: > > Patrick Flowers wrote: > > > You've gotten several excellent suggestions. I'll offer one more. > > Scrap aluminum sheeting can be folded and bent to complex shape to form > > a mold. If you want a flat piece, you can form a wall of aluminum sheet > > and set in on an aluminum plate. you should get very little leakage, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > but I would do this on a concrete floor, just to be safe. > Patrick, I just had to respond to your suggestion on pouring molten lead > on a concrete floor. This is very dangerous as concrete will "pop" when > exposed to very high temerature and throw hot lead at you , use a piece > of sheet steel or tin on a piece of plywood to support your mold and > insulate your floor. Please! John, Read it again. My intent was to place the aluminum plate on the concrete. Obviously, I didn't make that clear enough. Fire brick would be better, but I just wouldn't place aluminum on a wooden workbench and then pour molten lead on it. Patrick - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 19:16:25 -0600 From: John Roffey Subject: Re: KR: lead casting Patrick Flowers wrote: > > John Roffey wrote: > > > > Patrick Flowers wrote: > > > > > You've gotten several excellent suggestions. I'll offer one more. > > > Scrap aluminum sheeting can be folded and bent to complex shape to form > > > a mold. If you want a flat piece, you can form a wall of aluminum sheet > > > and set in on an aluminum plate. you should get very little leakage, > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > > but I would do this on a concrete floor, just to be safe. > > > Patrick, I just had to respond to your suggestion on pouring molten lead > > on a concrete floor. This is very dangerous as concrete will "pop" when > > exposed to very high temerature and throw hot lead at you , use a piece > > of sheet steel or tin on a piece of plywood to support your mold and > > insulate your floor. Please! > > John, > > Read it again. My intent was to place the aluminum plate on the > concrete. Obviously, I didn't make that clear enough. Fire brick would > be better, but I just wouldn't place aluminum on a wooden workbench and > then pour molten lead on it. > > Patrick > -- > Patrick Flowers > Mailto:patri63@ibm.net I stand corrected Patrick. Read your original post again, sorry to jump to conclusions. John Roffey jeroffey@tir.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 20:01:39 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: lead casting John Roffey wrote: > > I stand corrected Patrick. Read your original post again, sorry to jump > to conclusions. No problem John. We all make mistakes and I've made more than my share lately! Patrick - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net The GMC Motorhome Page http://www.gmcmotorhome.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 19:24:26 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: One Piece Spars Anyone? John Bouyea wrote: > > I'm building in a pretty nice shop and have the space to build a one piece > spar; seems like there could be a major weight and $$$ savings leaving out > the spar attach fittings and associated bolts by building a single unit. > > Inquiring minds want to know if it has been done... Never saw any response to this the first time around and the recent exchange about glassing over the stub/outer wing junction has me wondering about this too... - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 19:06:27 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: Re: KR: Studying the plans Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > >Ross wrote: > > >You will have to laminate your spar caps (most likely) > > Maybe not. See them trees out there? Some of 'em are kinda tall, > right? I see SPARS out there. Oscar, Don't discard the idea of laminated spars too quickly. Laminated wood structural members are usually stronger than solid wood members of the same dimensions. Patrick - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 20:56:29 -0500 (EST) From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: KR: Warnke Propellers Is anyone flying behind a Warnke "almost constant speed" propeller? I got one with my engine, and I want to make sure it's the right size/pitch. The engine is a Revmaster 2100DT, and the propeller is 52x52. Based on what I've seen of standard fixed pitch props, I think 54x56 is more common, but this prop is a different design. Dan Diehl flew behind one of the first of these props, and reported some impressive improvements in performance over the standard prop he was using, namely a 50% improvement in climb rate and a 10 mph increase in cruise. I'm going to try and get in touch with him and find out what size prop he was using, but any other info out there would be much appreciated. Thanks! Cheers! Rick Junkin EagleGator@aol.com St Charles MO ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 22:31:01 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: Warnke Propellers At 20:56 10/31/97 -0500, you wrote: >Is anyone flying behind a Warnke "almost constant speed" propeller? I got >one with my engine, and I want to make sure it's the right size/pitch. The >engine is a Revmaster 2100DT, and the propeller is 52x52. Based on what I've >seen of standard fixed pitch props, I think 54x56 is more common, but this >prop is a different design.... any other info out there would be much >appreciated. Thanks! > >Cheers! >Rick Junkin I jotted a few sizes down - mostly krs. 2100 Revmaster 68HP 52x52 Sterba Bobby Muse says 50x52 better 2400 type 4 54x56 Sterba 56x39 Warnke for slow planes: kitfox-WW1 Replica 1835 52x46 Props Inc Kr cruise 1.8 TBI Soob 52x59 Prince p-tip 1.85:1 redrive 80HP Limbach 53x52 Warnke 3300 rpm Kr2 2180 54x48 Sterba Sonerai 1800 52x45 Gt American Prop Kr1 2100 Revmaster 52x50 Sterba 2600 type 4 54x60 Sterba Boughman's Kr2 Revmaster 56x45 Cowley J Marstall Turbo (41inHg) 52x48 Aymar-Demuth 4000 rpm Parley Byington Not enough to make a scatter plot useful to you...yet! Regards brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 22:03:27 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: Re:gyro disk loads . Robert Moreland asked: > Of course one question leads to another: > What is the manuevering speed of a KR? > At what RPM would the engine be turning? > What is the mass of typical KR prop? > Where does the "center of radial mass lie"? Since nobody responded to this, I'll throw in my two cent's worth. I don't claim to be an expert here, but that never stopped me before. I THINK most wooden props on KRs are somewhere between 5 and 9 pounds. I'm using a Precision Props three blade ground adjustable wooden prop (if I go big HP fuel injected Type 4) which uses a Rotax hub. Bill says each blade is 7.5 pounds, and their cg is about a third of the way out from the center, which is typical, I think. Most KRs do 3000 to 3600 rpm maxed out, I think. I'm hoping to get 3800 out of mine, but that may be optimistic. I do have a knack for getting lots of HP out of Vdubs, however, and I'm not beyond throwing cubic dollars at it to get it. Not sure about manuevering speed, but would guess 120 mph or so, but that's purely a dumb guess. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL email at langford@hiwaay.net KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 00:42:23 -0500 (EST) From: TANDEM2@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Studying the plans Oscar, thanks, i got the info today. wow, a lot to read, very interesting. ya, there is a lot of trees out there, see if you can cut one. i don't know alot about spars for planes, but i do know something about masts for sailboats, and i would rather have a solid tree for my mast then a laminated one. the forces may not be the same, but i have seen laminated ones come apart, and solided one stays together. yes, i have seen solid trees snap at deck level when it was being rolled and getting end over end. i will still take a solid tree. now for a plane, i don't know. i would probably laminate one. either way, i would and will use fir. about engines, i have been studing and looking at type-4 vw, and think that is the way i will go, but the info is great, if you want the material back, i will send it, but not untill i have read it all, plus all the other stuff i am reading, wow. go for the fir, you can probably get a good deal, if you know some one who can log a tree and cut one to your specs. dec. is a good time to cut, and let it air dry, i know you want to start building now. thanks for your help tandem2 type-4, way to go ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 07:14:22 GMT From: mathewrz@iafrica.com (Rob Matthews) Subject: Re: KR:Rudder Pedals Shelf or Floor On 30/10/97 9:55PM, in message <1.5.4.32.19971030195532.006b8928@pop.mindspring.com>, Bobby Muse wrote: > At 01:24 AM 10/29/97 -0500, you wrote: > >In a message dated 97-10-27 01:27:14 EST, you write: > > > >>By the way, I mounted my rudder > >>pedals on the shelf and they work great. Master cyclinders can be a problem > >>but I mounted the master cyclinders to the front of the main spar. I > >>activate the cyclinders using Scwinn bicycle cables and a bellcrank. Easy > >>to service. > > > >Could you give more details on this? I saw a design in one of Tony > >Bingelis's books on how to have MECHANICAL toe brakes with cables. Is this > >actuation design like that one? > > > >Mike Taglieri > > > > > I'm not familiar with Tony's design but this what I did: > > After mounting the rudder pedals on the lower shelf on the Firewall, > I didn't like many idea I could muster that allowed the rudder pedals to be > directly connected to master cyclinders. The rudder pedals are copied from > the KR Manual. > The master cyclinders are mounted to the front side of the main spar > with the bleed screw facing up. The piston arm of the master cyclinder is > mounted stationary at the top of the spar by means of a 90 degree alumnium > angle. The main body of the master cyclinder(now the bottom end) is > attached to one end of a bellcrack. The center of the bellcrank is mounted > to a bracket attached to the bottom of the main spar. The bellcrank is > mounted in such a way that by pulling on one end on the bellcrank will cause > the master cyclinder main body to lift thus creating pressure against the > piston. > > A bicycle cable connects the rudder pedal to the bellcrank. The > bellcrank is installed such a way that a push on the rudder pedal pulls on > the cable which pulls on the bellcrank. The bellcrank lifts the master > cyclinder causing pressure on the piston which creates pressure on the brake > wheel cyclinders. > > I hope this help to understand what I did. This works great for me > and it fixed the problem created by installing my rudder pedals hanging down > from the lower shelf. > The best solution is to follow the plans. > > > > Bobby Muse(N122B) > bmuse@mindspring.com > Wimberly, TX > > > > Hi Bobby Is there anyway that you could do a drawing or a really close up photo on this system so we can all get the big picture. I understand the cables and all that it is the bell crank part that has me muddelled (puzzled). regards - -- Rob Matthews Have a nice day South Africa email mathewrz@iafrica.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 97 07:18:54 GMT From: mathewrz@iafrica.com (Rob Matthews) Subject: Re: KR: lead casting On 30/10/97 10:47PM, in message <2.2.32.19971030204736.00aaf444@pacbell.net>, Micheal Mims wrote: > Hey netters > > Who out there has had "perfect" successful lead casting experiences? I have > casted my own bullets (yea Im a gun packing republican, so what!!) but I > had machined molds made from aluminum. What is the best for casting lead? > Wet sand , damp sand, dry sand, wood? > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims > > Hi Mike Have you thought of plaster - of - paris. I used to use this for all my lead sinkers (fishing). Alot of people use steel moulded into the shape required and sanded smooth (very smooth) Regards - -- Rob Matthews Have a nice day South Africa email mathewrz@iafrica.com ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V1 #155 *****************************