From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 1998 1:55 AM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #27 krnet-l-digest Thursday, January 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 027 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 21:51:08 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: VIrus Stuff If anyone wants to learn about VIRUS stuff here are some webpages. http://ciac.llnl.gov/ciac/CIACHoaxes.html (US DOE website) http://www.mcafee.com (Mcafee antivirus company) http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/hoax.html (Symantec antivirus company) http://www.virusbtn.com/AVLinks/ (Anti Virus Vendors) KRNET (or any other source outside of the above) is not a reliable source for virus information. - -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 01:29:47 EST From: MikeT nyc Subject: Re: KR: alternators (was Cabin heat) >The Great Plains alternator is actually a motorcycle alternator >so it is not designed for as much load as an automobile alternator. It is?? Which one, or does anyone know? I would much prefer to buy one for less at a bike shop, or even find a used one at a bike breaker's for peanuts. Presumably, since it's intended to go on a flywheel, it would be from a shaft drive bike such as a BMW or Moto-Guzzi? Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 01:29:44 EST From: MikeT nyc Subject: KR: Re: Spruce price increases In a message dated 98-01-27 08:51:43 EST, you write: >Spruce is the standard, but according to the FAA in a circular that I have, >there are substitutes which are available at your local lumber yard. Here >are >a few. > >Douglas Fir (this is what I used) it exceeds the strength of spruce in shear >and compression > >Western Hemlock >Northern White Pine >Poplar > >These are a few. Remember you must be able to count 6 growth rings per inch >and no more than a 15:1 divergence. >Any questions, just email me direct and I will send you a copy of the >circular. I know we've ridden this alternative-wood hobbyhorse round and round, but I read something new a few days ago: according to a TAB publication on aircraft maintenance [name not written down] several of the other spruces are considered equivalents to Sitka Spruce in strength and weight for aviation purposes. Has anybody tried finding Red, White or Eastern spruce for their project? Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 18:21:02 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: V-tail KR2 At 10:26 1/26/98 EST, you wrote: >I would be willing to design a linkage system for a v-tail 2 if someone else >will do the aerodynamics ( Size and Angle) > >Ron > > hmmm...nobody else wanted to rush in with ideas here. I read somewhere that the hoped for wetted surface savings from v-tails really don't materialize, so maybe you could conservatively measure the length of the vertical and horizontal tail, add them together and divide by two for the length of each half of the vee, then arrange the vee at a sensible angle. Maybe one that puts the ends about 2/3 of the way up the old vertical tail, or more. Brian Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 03:57:31 -0600 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: NEED SPECS At 09:14 PM 1/21/98 EST, you wrote: >Thanks Ron, >It is flyable but it has been sitting for two years. It was finished by >Max Caulkin. (whoever he is.) I am going to disassmble the acft and put >it in my garage and go through it myself. >Thanks, >LLoyd > > You must be new to the KR if you don't know Max Caulkin. If it wasn't for Max there may not be a KR Gathering today.... Max is a true gentleman and a great avaition(KR) supporter. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 04:26:14 -0600 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: back to work At 04:51 PM 1/22/98 -0800, you wrote: >At 06:43 PM 1/22/98 -0800, you wrote: >>Hello once again from South Ga. Quick question on elevator and >>rudder hinge brackets. Should nylock nuts be used or should they be >>cotter keyed? > >Normal construction methods dictate using a bolt or clevis pin with a >castellated nut and cotter pin, or washer in place of nut of a clevis pin is >used. If you are using a bolt / nut combo the nut only need be finger >tight. Do not use a locking nut on any hinge. > > Don't use a self-locking type nut on any bolt that can have movement between the parts that are being bolted together. Use a castellated nut and cotter pin. If you you would like and never have plans to remove the bolt in one piece, you can add a little epoxy(flox) to the nut and cotter pin. Note: Never use a Nylock type nut on a bolt that has been drilled to accept a cotter pin. You may destroy the self-locking abilities of the nut. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 04:26:12 -0600 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR:Rudder Pedals Shelf or Floor At 07:14 AM 10/31/97 GMT, you wrote: > >> >Hi Bobby >Is there anyway that you could do a drawing or a really close up photo on this >system so we can all get the big picture. I understand the cables and all that >it is the bell crank part that has me muddelled (puzzled). >regards >-- >Rob Matthews Have a nice day >South Africa >email mathewrz@iafrica.com > > Rob, I'm sorry to have not back to you before now but do you still need to info on my brakes cables or have you gone beyond that by now???? Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 05:21:48 -0600 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: Cabin heat At 08:42 AM 1/25/98 -0800, you wrote: >At 06:42 AM 1/25/98 -0800, you wrote: >>The Great Plains alternator puts out about 20 amps at 3600 RPM. It puts out >significantly less at lower RPM's. >> >>Tom Crawford > >Your right! That was the topic of discussion yesterday at the hanger, at a >normal cruise setting none of the four VW flyers said they could run all the >gizmos in their aircraft without the battery draining. > >Gizmos= Strobes, Nav lights, radios and electric boost pumps. >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims > I have a old Revmaster alternator that puts out too much voltage. I turn on everything to keep the battery from overcharging. The reason(I was told by Revmaster) is because in the earlier days of Revmaster, they had company wound the stator coils for Revmaster. The problem was that this company used thinner wire ans thus more winding causing a higher voltage output. I now have this high output voltage under control using a voltage regulator/rectifer from a Harley Davidson motorcycle. Any comments? Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 06:54:13 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Cabin heat >I have a old Revmaster alternator that puts out too much voltage. I turn on >everything to keep the battery from overcharging. > >The reason(I was told by Revmaster) is because in the earlier days of >Revmaster, they had company wound the stator coils for Revmaster. The >problem was that this company used thinner wire ans thus more winding >causing a higher voltage output. > >I now have this high output voltage under control using a voltage >regulator/rectifer from a Harley Davidson motorcycle. > >Any comments? > > Bobby Muse(N122B) Sounds good to me Bobby. With the small, lightweight alternators available today, there is no need to be amperage limited. Voltage is voltage, current is current, and volts are volts...whether on a car or in a plane. Frankly, adding 7-10 pounds up in the engine compartment sounds like it may be worth it...both for the improve electrical load for electric cabin heat, and for CG purposes. Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:35:38 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Cabin heat At 05:21 AM 1/28/98 -0600, you wrote: >I now have this high output voltage under control using a voltage >regulator/rectifer from a Harley Davidson motorcycle. > >Any comments? > Yea find out who wound the old stators for Revmaster and we can have ours re-wound! :o) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 17:46:20 +0100 From: Michele Bucceri Subject: Re: KR: Re: stock KR2 and Deihl wing comparison Randy Stout wrote: > > Richard Parker wrote: > > (SNIP) > > The skins are longer then the stock wings at 23' 6"and apparently can > be used on both the KR-2 and -2S with only a slight modification to > the spars. > > > Randy Stout - San Antonio TX > r5t0ut@flash.net What kind of modifications and where can I find them? Michele (waiting for the plans !!! ) - -- MBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMB Michele Bucceri E-mail: mailto:michele.bucceri@italtel.it MBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMB ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:37:30 -0800 From: darrin Subject: KR: glassing foam Ok, so I'm no college grad! I need some step by step instruction on glassing the tail of my bird. I have glued in the foam and sanded it to shape but I have some gaps (1/8" at most) in a few places where the edge of the spars were not square at the edge. This leaves a small groove which I would like to fill before I glass it over. Can I mix up some micro-slurry and fill these places and seal the foam, let it cure, and then sand again and lay the cloth with straight epoxy or do I have to lay the cloth while the slurry is wet? I used urethane foam, by the way. I want a nice, smooth finish the first go around if possible. Also, what mix ratio should I use on the micro? I have read 50-50 I know I can count on kr-net to pull me through. I lost your e-mail on this matter Tom, whoops!! Darrin "wet behind the ears" West ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:33:41 EST From: KR2 616TJ Subject: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. Bobby, I believe you started something here. I'm with Mike, how do we go about re-wiring these accessory case alternators? How small a wire do we use, how many loops? I'm all for having to use a regulator, more gizmos are neat. I'm game, since my case is at Rimco right now. Dana Overall Richmond, KY kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 17:25:55 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. Dana wrote: > I'm with Mike, how do we go >about re-wiring these accessory case alternators? How small a wire do we use, >how many loops? I'm all for having to use a regulator, more gizmos are neat. My two cents worth here, since it happens that we have some good shops around town here. I suggest you find a motor rewind shop, armature works, or good auto electric shop- tell them what you're trying to do. They can do it right the first time, and it shouldn't set you back more than $30 or so. Okay; maybe $50. If you try it yourself, you'll end up with a problem, IMHO. Uh, one more little tip: be sure to tell them it's for your motorcycle or dune buggy. They'll be way more cooperative than if you tell them it's for an airplane. You won't need an additional regulator if you do it right, either; it should put out the right voltage. After all: you don't drive while riding the brakes, so why crank out a higher voltage and then have to choke it down, so to speak? Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 19:55:13 -0600 (CST) From: Shane & Lynn Subject: Re: KR: Re: stock KR2 and Deihl wing comparison >In a message dated 98-01-26 22:26:18 EST, you write: > ><< Anybody know the going price for Diehl skins? I'm interested if anyone > has seen them. > -Tom in Orlando >> > > > Tom, I bought mine for $1200 Feb '96. I heard a few months ago they were >$1500. I had been expecting to pay $900 for them but that was 2 years prior >to buying them when I did. I really like the looks of them but haven't put >them >on yet. > >Jim Hayward Tom,I paid about $1200 for mine some time back.I am more than happy with them,they look great.Just a little advice,get as many extra hands around when you decide to glue them together.Dan Diehl sells a video that shows they go together,it really answers alot. Good luck Shane King N911SK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:17:24 -0600 (CST) From: Shane & Lynn Subject: Re: KR: Re: stock KR2 and Deihl wing comparison >JEHayward wrote: >> >> In a message dated 98-01-26 22:26:18 EST, you write: >> >> << Anybody know the going price for Diehl skins? I'm interested if anyone >> has seen them. >> -Tom in Orlando >> >> >> Tom, I bought mine for $1200 Feb '96. I heard a few months ago they were >> $1500. I had been expecting to pay $900 for them but that was 2 years prior >> to buying them when I did. I really like the looks of them but haven't put >> them >> on yet. >> >> Jim Hayward >I was planning on using the RR Skins, but they are >considerably more. Does someone have a contact for >the Diehl skins? YOU could try 918 299 4444 That was Dan Diehls number a few years ago.Ask if he still sells the video that shows how to install.Mine turned out GREAT.Just a little advise,get some extra hands when gluing. Shane King N911SK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:44:52 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam At 04:37 PM 1/28/98 -0800, you wrote: I have some gaps (1/8" at most) in a few places where the edge >of the spars were not square at the edge. This leaves a small groove >which I would like to fill before I glass it over. Can I mix up>>>> Heres what you do, mix up some micro that is the consistency of thick peanut butter, use this to fill those nasty grooves and gaps, then mix up some slurry and with the consistency of room temperature honey and fill your foam, lay your glass on the slurry and wet it out with epoxy, your done. Do not let the slurry dry and then wetout your cloth, you will be sorry! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh My,.......Its 1998!! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:10:52, -0500 From: YCGB97A@prodigy.com (MR JEAN R VERON) Subject: KR: glassing foam Darrin The foam should be sealed with micro before glassing anyway. This will make it easier to glass. Jean N4DD ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 17:52:41 -0800 From: MARVIN MCCOY Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam darrin wrote: > > Ok, so I'm no college grad! I need some step by step instruction on > glassing the tail of my bird. I have glued in the foam and sanded it to > shape but I have some gaps (1/8" at most) in a few places where the edge > of the spars were not square at the edge. This leaves a small groove > which I would like to fill before I glass it over. Can I mix up some > micro-slurry and fill these places and seal the foam, let it cure, and > then sand again and lay the cloth with straight epoxy or do I have to > lay the cloth while the slurry is wet? I used urethane foam, by the > way. > I want a nice, smooth finish the first go around if possible. > Also, what mix ratio should I use on the micro? I have read 50-50 > I know I can count on kr-net to pull me through. > > I lost your e-mail on this matter Tom, whoops!! > > Darrin "wet behind the ears" West - ----------------- Darrin: You can do this at least two ways. One is to cover the whole area you are glassing with micro slurry. and let it harden then sand it smooth then glass it. Problem with this is where you sand through the slurry the foam will sand faster and leave divits or low spots. I would make the slurry very dry. As dry as yiou can mix it. Two you can cover the whole thing with slurry some what wet so it will stick but be smooth. Then lay glass over the whole thing while the slurry is still wet. I would wet the glass out first on some polyethylene or plastic. Then lay the glass on the area you are glassing. Then smooth it out. The glass should be very dry or almost all of the epoxy squeegeed out of it before you lay it down. Three, yiou can fill the gaps with very very dry slurry then carefully sand it. Being careful not to dig the foam out to much. Then glass it. It depends on how much you are filling. I think I would mix the slurry very very dry and fill the gaps. Then mix some slurry a little wetter to coat the rest of the foam and then glass the whole thing while it is stll wet. Making sure the slurry was put on very smooth and careful. When I say very very dry I make it as dry as I possibly can. I keep mixing micro balloons into the epoxy till it won't mix any more. It will be as thick or thicker then peanut butter. I hope this helps. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field mr.marvin@worldnet.att.net - --------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Jan 98 14:19:03 GMT From: mathewrz@iafrica.com (Rob Matthews) Subject: Re: KR:Rudder Pedals Shelf or Floor On 28/1/98 12:26PM, in message <1.5.4.32.19980128102612.00679df8@pop.mindspring.com>, Bobby Muse wrote: > At 07:14 AM 10/31/97 GMT, you wrote: > > > >> > >Hi Bobby > >Is there anyway that you could do a drawing or a really close up photo on > this > >system so we can all get the big picture. I understand the cables and all > that > >it is the bell crank part that has me muddelled (puzzled). > >regards > >-- > >Rob Matthews Have a nice day > >South Africa > >email mathewrz@iafrica.com > > > > > Rob, > I'm sorry to have not back to you before now but do you still need to info > on my brakes cables or have you gone beyond that by now???? > > Bobby Muse(N122B) > bmuse@mindspring.com > Wimberly, TX > > > > Hi Bobby I am finished with this and have designed a system that looks good and should work. I think it is the same as what you have done. Many Thanks - -- Rob Matthews Have a nice day South Africa email mathewrz@iafrica.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:27:04 From: Austin Clark Subject: Re: KR: Aileron Bell Crank Question At 21:06 1/27/98 -0800, you wrote: >Austin, > I reversed the brackets to get more of the assembly to fit inside >the wing. I have not installed the pushrods/ailerons just yet. I >have a few minor issues to complete before I do another wing-mate >and try this out. I will take a close look at what my aileron travel >looks like... don't want an OOPS! > -- Ross Ross, I did the same thing, but I have not drilled the mounting holes yet. I think if this does not work, I will do like Mike Mimms did and make the lower bracket extend outside the wing. The drawing in the manual sure looks like it has the potential to jam. Hard to say though without an actual fit-up. I'll be interested in how yours turns out. Austin Clark Pascagoula, MS http://www.datasync.com/~itac/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:59:38 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam At 06:44 PM 1/28/98 -0800, you wrote: >At 04:37 PM 1/28/98 -0800, you wrote: > I have some gaps (1/8" at most) in a few places where the edge >>of the spars were not square at the edge. This leaves a small groove >>which I would like to fill before I glass it over. Can I mix up>>>> > >Heres what you do, mix up some micro that is the consistency of thick peanut >butter, use this to fill those nasty grooves and gaps, then mix up some >slurry and with the consistency of room temperature honey and fill your >foam, lay your glass on the slurry and wet it out with epoxy, your done. Do >not let the slurry dry and then wetout your cloth, you will be sorry! >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims One more reminder....pure epoxy on wood unless the KR procedures are different from my experience with composites. Another one more thing....before you slurry the foam, take some extra time and make sure that everything is smooth. If you have a bump in the foam, that will translate into a bump in the finished surface. You will then have to spend oodles more time filling to get it smooth. Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:31:15 EST From: DeGangeJ Subject: Re: KR: Nose roller sale maybe delayed. Call Dan Deihl and tell him you have the fiberglass nose strut! I purchased a previously owned (never installed) tri-gear package from an ex-builder with the glass nose strut and the older Scotchply main legs (with the single dogleg). Dan replaced both free of charge (I only payed shipping of my older parts to Dan) provided the parts had not been drilled. Now THAT'S service! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:10:48 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Re: stock KR2 and Deihl wing comparison At 05:46 PM 1/28/98 +0100, you wrote: used on both the KR-2 and -2S with only a slight modification to >> the spars. >> >> >> Randy Stout - San Antonio TX >> r5t0ut@flash.net > >What kind of modifications and where can I find them? > > You will get the instructions for the mods required to install the skins when you buy the wing skins. Is anyone archiving the KRnet post? We sure are getting a lot of repeat questions lately! Maybe some of the new guys should checkout the archive if its still available. This question was answered only two days ago. The Dan Diehl wings skins are available from Diehl Aero-Nautical, 1855 North Elm, Jenks, OK 74037 (918) 299-4445 or http://www.cuttingedge-tech.com/diehl The Rand Robinson wing skins are available from the company at: Rand Robinson Engineering, 15641 Product Lane, A-5, Huntington Beach, CA 92649 (714) 898-3811 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:54:58 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: Mystery housing KRNetHeads, Ken Cornelius brought me an accessory case like I've never seen before ( http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/mhousing.jpg ). Anybody know who made these? And even more importantly, what kind of starter was used with it? You can see in the picture that the starter boss is considerably shorter than the one on the Diehl case. And it looks like it has bosses for motorcycle coils, as well as a pulley drive mag. Any info on this would be much appreciated. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL email at langford@hiwaay.net KR2S project construction at http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 23:37:46 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Mystery housing At 08:54 PM 1/28/98 -0600, you wrote: >Ken Cornelius brought me an accessory case like I've never seen before ( http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/mhousing.jpg ). Anybody know who made>>>>>>>> Mark that could be an old HAPI unit, the mounting lugs in his matched up with an O-200 (top two are closer together) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh My,.......Its 1998!! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:20:38 -0800 From: Ross Subject: KR: Nuts & Bolts (was Back to work) Bobby Muse wrote: > Note: Never use a Nylock type nut on a bolt that has been drilled to accept > a cotter pin. You may destroy the self-locking abilities of the nut. I think that there is some room to argue this point. This assumes that the drilled hole in the shank has some burrs on it that would gouge the nylon insert. I think Tony Bengelis discusses this a bit in his books. It is also recommended to use your nylock nuts only once then discard. I used to have some nuts used just for "test fittings", then brought out brand new ones after doing the trial assemblies. I think that if you can finger tighten the nut, it is toast. Otherwise, I think there is some room for re-using the nuts (depending on application area). In most cases, if I'm worried enough about this I think I would put a castillated nut/cotter pin assembly. -- Ross ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:43:45 -0500 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam darrin wrote: > I have glued in the foam and sanded it to > shape but I have some gaps (1/8" at most) in a few places where the edge > of the spars were not square at the edge. This leaves a small groove > which I would like to fill before I glass it over. > Darrin "wet behind the ears" West It is difficult to tell what gap you mean. Do not put any slurry or dry micro on the outside of the spar. This must be a solid glass-to-wood join. Put the micro over the glass to smooth the area. There should not be a major change in heigth between the foam and the spar. Make a smooth transition. If the gaps are between the foam and the spar or foam and a rib, put in a sliver of foam and a bit of slurry. Small gaps can also be filled with a dry micro mix before glassing. I would not let the slurry dry, sand, then glass. Other people may have other opinions of this. - -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:46:00 EST From: LDeckert Subject: KR: Re: stock KR2 and Deihl wing comparison Michelle wrote: << Randy Stout wrote: > > Richard Parker wrote: > > (SNIP) > > The skins are longer then the stock wings at 23' 6"and apparently can > be used on both the KR-2 and -2S with only a slight modification to > the spars. > > > Randy Stout - San Antonio TX > r5t0ut@flash.net What kind of modifications and where can I find them? Michele (waiting for the plans !!! ) - >> Dan has a web site at http://www.cuttingedge-tech.com/diehl, but it doesn't have any KR stuff on it. I used the Diehl skins and the only difference I remember in the spars is that the plan taper front to back is not done. The spars are tapered (top to bottom) in the caps, so all of the 'spacers' inside the spar are the same length. By the way, if you use Dan's skins you will use vynal ester to 'glue' them on. Be sure to get the 'slow set' stuff unless you have a lot of helping hands. I had 3 other folks helping and almost didn't get things on and in place in time (another minute and I'd of been stuck!!) Larry Deckert Sandy Utah (801) 561-3573 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:31:50 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. Dana, The Great Plains alternator comes with a rectifier/regulator unit. It's kinda small but it is supposed to do some regulation. I will see as I have a voltmeter on my panel so I can watch what happens before I attempt to fry my new radio and transponder. I am thinking of putting some overvoltage protection on the line for the radio. Some Zenier diodes or somthing... haven't thought what yet. I could wire up a nifty 12V regulator but don't know if I want the additional parisitic current load of this. -- Ross KR2 616TJ wrote: > > Bobby, I believe you started something here. I'm with Mike, how do we go > about re-wiring these accessory case alternators? How small a wire do we use, > how many loops? I'm all for having to use a regulator, more gizmos are neat. > I'm game, since my case is at Rimco right now. > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY > kr2616tj@aol.com > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:35:48 -0800 From: Robert Covington Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. (No Archive) >You won't need an additional regulator if you do it right, either; it >should put out the right voltage. After all: you don't drive while >riding the brakes, so why crank out a higher voltage and then have to >choke it down, so to speak? > >Oscar Zuniga >Medford, Oregon Maybe true for airplane use, but when I was a kid, we had tire powered generators thattypically were 6-12 volts. By using a 3 volt regulator (or lower), we could use lower voltage light bulbs in the headlamps and that way we could be pedaling at idle speeds and have a full brightness headlight. :) I myself had dual headlights for a high and low beam. So if you use a voltage regulator for your airplane, you can have your windmilling engine keep your landing light on for you so you don't have to turn it on then back off 50 feet up in the dark if you don't like what you see (old joke). ;) Robert Covington Rancho Cucamonga, CA CA, USA USA,World World, Milky Way Milky Way, Universe Universe, KR-2S,Building 'Til The End Of Time ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:39:26 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam Darrin, Well, I tried both methods for filling voids. I suggest that you mix REAL DRY micro slurry... say about 70%/30%, to fill in the voids. You should be cursing it and trying to shove it in place with a little stir stick. Then MOST IMPORTANTLY scrape it to a nice flush surface when it starts to set up (1-2 hours or so later). Don't micro-slurry all the foam at that time, as the additional epoxy will thin out the dry micro, and it will just seep into the crack, then you will see the glass wanting to dip into the depression, and you will be depressed. If this happens, you will have to fill the void after all is cured with dry micro. In general bumps and voids are to be avoided as you want smooth glass, however there is a rule of thumb as to how much is acceptable (I forget what it is). However, you can cut major problems out with a utility knife...feather sand the edges, and do a repair as long as you overlap the glass 1-2" around the non-feathered area. Be careful sanding around cured micro/epoxy and un epoxied foam. The foam goes first. (UGH). Also don't micro-slurry any foam you don't plan on glassing within 30min-2 hours. Cured micro slurry is a real poor surface to put glass on top of. (I did lay-ups over cured slurry on the inside of my cowling... trust me on this). -- Ross darrin wrote: > > Ok, so I'm no college grad! I need some step by step instruction on > glassing the tail of my bird. I have glued in the foam and sanded it to > shape but I have some gaps (1/8" at most) in a few places where the edge > of the spars were not square at the edge. This leaves a small groove > which I would like to fill before I glass it over. Can I mix up some > micro-slurry and fill these places and seal the foam, let it cure, and > then sand again and lay the cloth with straight epoxy or do I have to > lay the cloth while the slurry is wet? I used urethane foam, by the > way. > I want a nice, smooth finish the first go around if possible. > Also, what mix ratio should I use on the micro? I have read 50-50 > I know I can count on kr-net to pull me through. > > I lost your e-mail on this matter Tom, whoops!! > > Darrin "wet behind the ears" West ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:42:21 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam Micheal Mims wrote: > Heres what you do, mix up some micro that is the consistency of thick peanut > butter, use this to fill those nasty grooves and gaps, then mix up some > slurry and with the consistency of room temperature honey and fill your > foam, lay your glass on the slurry and wet it out with epoxy, your done. Do > not let the slurry dry and then wetout your cloth, you will be sorry! > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Oh My,.......Its 1998!! This is what I did, however in many cases the wetter micro-slurry would thin out the peanut butter micro, and it would start to seep around. I think if you do a REAL DRY micro application, wait an hour or two to let it set up before you mix the micro-slurry, you get the best of both worlds. - -- Ross (Again) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:43:14 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam Well, yes you have to seal the foam, but it is generally not recommended to glass over cured micro-slurry on the foam. IMHO - -- Ross MR JEAN R VERON wrote: > > Darrin > The foam should be sealed with micro before glassing anyway. This > will make it easier to glass. > Jean > N4DD ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:47:17 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam Ron, Yep... NO micro slurry allowed on the spar caps. It's not too hard to keep them clean, it's just somthing to look for as you scoot the wet glass around on the slurried foam. I used an automotive bondo scraper to clean any messes off the spar if they got contaminated accidently. -- Ross Ron Lee wrote: > > At 06:44 PM 1/28/98 -0800, you wrote: > >At 04:37 PM 1/28/98 -0800, you wrote: > > I have some gaps (1/8" at most) in a few places where the edge > >>of the spars were not square at the edge. This leaves a small groove > >>which I would like to fill before I glass it over. Can I mix up>>>> > > > >Heres what you do, mix up some micro that is the consistency of thick peanut > >butter, use this to fill those nasty grooves and gaps, then mix up some > >slurry and with the consistency of room temperature honey and fill your > >foam, lay your glass on the slurry and wet it out with epoxy, your done. Do > >not let the slurry dry and then wetout your cloth, you will be sorry! > >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > >Micheal Mims > > One more reminder....pure epoxy on wood unless the KR procedures are different > from my experience with composites. Another one more thing....before you > slurry the foam, take some extra time and make sure that everything is smooth. > > If you have a bump in the foam, that will translate into a bump in the > finished > surface. You will then have to spend oodles more time filling to get it > smooth. > > Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:48:39 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: Mystery housing The HAPI units I remember seeing had the word "HAPI" embossed in the casting... however this could be an OLDER HAPI unit. -- Ross Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 08:54 PM 1/28/98 -0600, you wrote: > >Ken Cornelius brought me an accessory case like I've never seen before ( > http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/mhousing.jpg ). Anybody know who made>>>>>>>> > > Mark that could be an old HAPI unit, the mounting lugs in his matched up > with an O-200 (top two are closer together) > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Oh My,.......Its 1998!! > > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:56:14 -0800 From: Ross Subject: KR: KRNET.ORG Back up In case anyone noticed KRNET.ORG was down for about 10 days. I ordered an additional 5Mb of storage, and hadn't paid the $30 invoice on time, to teleport pulled the plug on the website. Nice of them to keep KRNET going during that time. Well to make a long story short the check was in the mail... so I bought another 5Mb for $30 with a credit card, which got the thing fixed Monday. I've got about 20 ideas on how to improve the website for us. Including finally posting the collection of photos I have recieved from KRNET members which need scanning and posting. Too bad I have a real job during the daytime. So if you have any suggestions... let me know. Also... I have details on a KRNET lapel pin. It will cost about $70-100 to setup tooling on a NEW pin with http://www.krnet.org on it, so I'm stalling considering if I want to shell out the bucks for this, and hope it pays off over the next five years. In the meantime, if there is enough interest in a lapel pin... let me know (mailto rossy@teleport.com, or krnet@krnet.org... not krnet-l) and I will keep a tally, when we hit critical mass (Say 20-30 pins), I will place an order... how much you ask? I forget. I was thinking of giving them away next year to members who donate $20 or more to support KRNET, or whatever the cost otherwise. I think the price was in the range from $7-10... I'll have to get back to you on that. - -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 01:58:32 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: [Fwd: Hi all] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------1E8792627B69D9637171BE41 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have forwarded this post to KRNET-L. Remember post to KRNET-L@teleport.com email to krnet@teleport.com just goes to the administration account. KRNET-L is the list. Thanks! -- Ross - --------------1E8792627B69D9637171BE41 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: kr2smm@email.msn.com Received: from UPIMSSMTPSYS04 (upimssmtpsys04.email.msn.com [207.68.152.41]) by smtp1.teleport.com (8.8.7/8.7.3) with ESMTP id AAA04122 for ; Wed, 26 Nov 1997 00:25:24 -0800 (PST) Received: from UPIMSSMTPUSR04 - 207.68.143.160 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Wed, 26 Nov 1997 00:24:59 -0800 Received: from default - 153.34.115.45 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Wed, 26 Nov 1997 00:24:57 -0800 From: "Martin Mulvey" To: Subject: Hi all Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 00:25:05 -0800 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3 Message-ID: <053015724081ab7UPIMSSMTPUSR04@email.msn.com> Finally, hopefully, I will be able to post. I have a 2S project going as well up in the SEA area. Coming along slow but sure. It will be powered by a SOOB EA81 Turbo MPFI. I will be using the SwagAero electronic conversion with a Crane dual CD ignition. So far, no real surprises. Prints and book are as all have implied. It is good that I can read them and have worked from prints in the past. Hopefully, this will get through this time. I have been having a lot of trouble getting my posts through. (AOL/MSN conflict) I am a Tech Counsellor as well and what has been stated by some is correct as far as the visits. More on that later if you want. All the best! Marty - --------------1E8792627B69D9637171BE41-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 01:59:18 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: FWD from Steve Bennett (ALTERNATORS) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------356528D711238891FAC802C5 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit - --------------356528D711238891FAC802C5 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: by smtp3 for krnet (with Cubic Circle's cucipop (v1.21 1997/08/10) Thu Jan 29 01:48:47 1998) X-From_: krnet-l-owner Wed Jan 28 18:50:35 1998 Return-Path: owner-krnet-l@lists.teleport.com Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp1.teleport.com (8.8.7/8.7.3) id SAA26764; Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:50:33 -0800 (PST) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:50:33 -0800 (PST) From: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com Message-Id: <199801290250.SAA26764@smtp1.teleport.com> To: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: BOUNCE krnet-l@lists.teleport.com: Non-member submission from [Linda Bennett ] >From krnet-l-owner Wed Jan 28 18:50:28 1998 Received: from iceland.it.earthlink.net (iceland-c.it.earthlink.net [204.119.177.28]) by smtp1.teleport.com (8.8.7/8.7.3) with ESMTP id SAA26708 for ; Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:50:27 -0800 (PST) Received: from 153.36.249.102 (1Cust102.tnt16.dfw5.da.uu.net [153.36.249.102]) by iceland.it.earthlink.net (8.8.7/8.8.5) with SMTP id SAA10701 for ; Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:50:24 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <34CF9AE2.7055@earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:53:53 +0000 From: Linda Bennett Reply-To: ag367@earthlink.net Organization: Great Plains Aircraft Supply Co. Inc. X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0-C-NSCP (Macintosh; U; 68K) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: Re: KR: Cabin heat References: <3.0.2.32.19980128065413.0069d954@pcisys.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit we have looked for a long time for a small and I mean small alternator that could be belt driven and will do 20 to 30 amps. We have just not found such an item. We have researched cars made in Japan, China, India, Malaysia etc.. and a truely small alternator is not to be found. I don't condiser the Suzuki or Chevy Sprint alternator to be a Small alternator. The only small one is made for Kubota Ind. engines, it outputs 14 amps, belt driven field pulse type alternator like we currently use and is only about 4.5 inches in dia. Steve - --------------356528D711238891FAC802C5-- ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V2 #27 ****************************