From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Friday, January 30, 1998 12:06 AM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #28 krnet-l-digest Friday, January 30 1998 Volume 02 : Number 028 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 02:00:09 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: FWD Alternator Output (Steve Bennett) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------4EFBF1B94EA18D494C374DB3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit - --------------4EFBF1B94EA18D494C374DB3 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: by smtp3 for krnet (with Cubic Circle's cucipop (v1.21 1997/08/10) Thu Jan 29 01:49:09 1998) X-From_: krnet-l-owner Wed Jan 28 23:06:47 1998 Return-Path: owner-krnet-l@lists.teleport.com Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp2.teleport.com (8.8.7/8.7.3) id XAA22358; Wed, 28 Jan 1998 23:06:44 -0800 (PST) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 23:06:44 -0800 (PST) From: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com Message-Id: <199801290706.XAA22358@smtp2.teleport.com> To: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: BOUNCE krnet-l@lists.teleport.com: Non-member submission from [Linda Bennett ] >From krnet-l-owner Wed Jan 28 23:06:40 1998 Received: from iceland.it.earthlink.net (iceland-c.it.earthlink.net [204.119.177.28]) by smtp2.teleport.com (8.8.7/8.7.3) with ESMTP id SAA24063 for ; Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:48:37 -0800 (PST) Received: from 153.36.249.102 (1Cust102.tnt16.dfw5.da.uu.net [153.36.249.102]) by iceland.it.earthlink.net (8.8.7/8.8.5) with SMTP id SAA07307 for ; Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:44:52 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <34CF9996.6239@earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:48:21 +0000 From: Linda Bennett Reply-To: ag367@earthlink.net Organization: Great Plains Aircraft Supply Co. Inc. X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0-C-NSCP (Macintosh; U; 68K) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: Re: KR: alternators (was Cabin heat) References: <23eab8d3.34ced05c@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Our alternator field, the stator is actually an industrial engine piece, not a motorcycle part. They are very similar though. The Honda I had, had the magnet inside the stator vs. outside. Our magnet can is custom made to fit the stator. The out put is 20 amps at 3600 rpm and will decrease with rpm decrease. Nominal out put is about 16 amps at 3100 rpm. Steve - --------------4EFBF1B94EA18D494C374DB3-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:29:38 -0500 From: Patrick Flowers Subject: KR: FWD: KR-2 project forsale The following showed up on usenet yesterday. Address replies to Konan@mail.vsu.edu because I don't know anything about it. On Sat, 24 Jan 1998 21:38:02 GMT, in rec.aviation.marketplace Konan@mail.vsu.edu (Konan) wrote: >Email address: Konan@mail.vsu.edu > >Fuselage (boat) and center spars completed and on landing gear. >Rudder, stabilizer and elevator completed and glassed. Canopy and >canopy frame, turtledeck,fuel tank, front deck and cowling all Rand >Robinson prefab. Wheels, brakes, tires, control stick installed. >Hardware, fiberglass cloth, and all wood necessary to complete. Will >need to buy foam for wings and epoxy. Located central Virginia. >$2200.00 - -- Patrick Flowers Mailto:patri63@ibm.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:27:24 -0500 From: rdewees@juno.com (Ron DeWees) Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. Ross.. I have been following the overvoltage thread here and may have to deal with it as I have a 0 time HAPI 1834 mill vintage 1882 with my project. If the voltage is too high in your alternator you can take heavy duty silicon diodes that will handle the amperage expected and simply put them in series with the output. The voltage drop is around .4 or .5 volts under load and there is no other circuitry to consider. THe only downside is that it will drop the same voltage when the alternator is not spinning as fast but it is a simple solution to dropping a couple of volts. I used to use a string of them on a trolling motor to get voltage drop for slower speeds. The heat generated is minimal but diodes in the 15 or 20 amp range have threaded studs for mounting and heat dissipation. Good luck Ron DeWees. Atlanta Ga On Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:31:50 -0800 Ross writes: >Dana, > The Great Plains alternator comes with a rectifier/regulator unit. >It's kinda small but it is supposed to do some regulation. I will >see as I have a voltmeter on my panel so I can watch what happens >before I attempt to fry my new radio and transponder. > I am thinking of putting some overvoltage protection on the line >for the radio. Some Zenier diodes or somthing... haven't thought what >yet. I could wire up a nifty 12V regulator but don't know if I want >the additional parisitic current load of this. > > -- Ross > >KR2 616TJ wrote: >> >> Bobby, I believe you started something here. I'm with Mike, how do >we go >> about re-wiring these accessory case alternators? How small a wire >do we use, >> how many loops? I'm all for having to use a regulator, more gizmos >are neat. >> I'm game, since my case is at Rimco right now. >> >> Dana Overall >> Richmond, KY >> kr2616tj@aol.com >> http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:35:27 +0100 From: Michele Bucceri Subject: Re: KR: Re: stock KR2 and Deihl wing comparison Micheal Mims wrote: > > (SNIP) > > Is anyone archiving the KRnet post? We sure are getting a lot of repeat > questions lately! Maybe some of the new guys should checkout the archive if > its still available. This question was answered only two days ago. > > (SNIP) Yes Mike, you are right, that's generally what I do before asking something. But sometimes I've the feeling that some mail became losts, because I read answer to a never received mail. Don't know if it's a KRNET fault or a my mail-server problem. Michele - -- MBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMB Michele Bucceri E-mail: mailto:michele.bucceri@italtel.it MBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMB ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 14:59:47 -0500 From: msharkey@softarc.com (Mike Sharkey) Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. krnet-l@teleport.com,Internet writes: >You won't need an additional regulator if you do it right, either; it >should put out the right voltage. After all: you don't drive while >riding the brakes, so why crank out a higher voltage and then have to >choke it down, so to speak? The reason for regulating the output is not just to get the voltage right, but is mainly to curb electrical noise and oscilations on the power supply lines. The reason for having the supply voltage higher than the regulated voltage is to keep all of the noise and fluctuations "above" the regulated voltage. For example, if you're running unregulated power with your radio on, you're going to hear a pop when you turn your landing light on as the voltage will jump all over the place when the new load is suddenly introduced. Also, you will be alot more likely to experience ignition noise on the radio if you're running any kind electricly driven ignition system, you will also notice annoying instrument light intesity fluctuations as gizmos are turned on and off and so on. By regulating the voltage, you eliminate these annoying voltage fluctuations. Also, the power originating from an alternating source is not perfectly "flat" either, it still has a bit of AC component and you will likely be able to "hear" your alternator on the radio unless it passes through a regulator first. Mike Sharkey X11 Development SoftArc Inc. / Tridem Labs http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:52:40 -0500 From: msharkey@softarc.com (Mike Sharkey) Subject: Re(2): KR: Alternator Re-wiring. krnet-l@teleport.com,Internet writes: >If the voltage is too high in your alternator you can take >heavy duty silicon diodes that will handle the amperage expected and >simply put them in series with the output. The voltage drop is around .4 >or .5 volts under load and there is no other circuitry to consider. THe >only downside is that it will drop the same voltage when the alternator >is not spinning as fast but it is a simple solution to dropping a couple >of volts. I used to use a string of them on a trolling motor to get >voltage drop for slower speeds. The heat generated is minimal but >diodes in the 15 or 20 amp range have threaded studs for mounting and >heat dissipation. This plan will indeed drop the voltage at the diode junction by about .5 volts per diode, but this will only, like you say, make the output voltage track the input voltage (i.e. Vs - .5v). So it really does nothing to curb electrical noise and other transients and voltage fluctuations that may originate at the alternator output. I will begin to post some simple voltage regulator circuits at http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey/Regulator The first one I've just posted, is called "zener.gif", it describes a simple zener diode regulator. Now, digging way back in the dark corners of my rusty brain, I've come up with the following component values (someone please correct me if I'm mistaken here): Assuming the following values: Vs (alternator output max voltage) 15v Vz (desired regulated voltage) 13v Il (load current max) 20A then: the value of (R) is: R = Vs / Il = 15 / 20 = .75 ohm Rw = Vs * Il = 15 * 20 = 300 watts (note: this resistor must be capable of disipating 300 watts - if you can't find a 300W resisor of this value, then use multiple wire wound ceramic type resitors in parallel to get sufficient disipation if nessesary (preferably the rectangular type resistors so they can be readily mounted to a plate aluminum heat sink), but remember to divide the resitor value by the number of restors to get the correct value. i.e. 1.5 ohm (150W min.) divide by 2 resistors = .75 ohm (300W) ) and the value of (Z) is: Iz = (Vs - Vz) / R = (15 - 13) / .75 = 2.66A (amps) Zw = ((Vs -Vz) / R) * Vz = ((15 - 13) / .75) * 13 = 34.5 watts The NTE part number for a 50 watt 13 volt zener diode is "NTE 5255 A" and the mechanical specs can be found at http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey/Regulator/nte5255a.gif. The operating temperature range for this device is from -65c to +175c I will look for a regulator curcuit I designed a few years back for a robotic power supply regulator project, it's slightly more complicated than this zener regulator, but dosn't require relatively the bulky high power resitors and dosn't generate as much heat, it has rock solid voltage stability from 0 current to max load (as opposed to the zener which will fluctuate just slightly between 0 and max load), plus it's cheap, easy to construct with few componets...anyway, I'll dig it out of my files when I get home and post it in the same place as the zener regulator sometime in the next day or two. Mike Sharkey X11 Development SoftArc Inc. / Tridem Labs http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 14:46:06 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Prop for Sale I have a 52 x 42 Aymar Demuth prop for sale, its never been airborne only ground run. It is for 1835 to 2000 cc VW conversions. Make me an offer! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh my,... its 1998! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:15:06 -0500 From: dadg@centuryinter.net Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. Mike Sharkey wrote: > > krnet-l@teleport.com,Internet writes: > >You won't need an additional regulator if you do it right, either; it > >should put out the right voltage. After all: you don't drive while > >riding the brakes, so why crank out a higher voltage and then have to > >choke it down, so to speak? > > The reason for regulating the output is not just to get the voltage right, but > is mainly to curb electrical noise and oscilations on the power supply lines. > The reason for having the supply voltage higher than the regulated voltage is > to keep all of the noise and fluctuations "above" the regulated voltage. For > example, if you're running unregulated power with your radio on, you're going > to hear a pop when you turn your landing light on as the voltage will jump all > over the place when the new load is suddenly introduced. Also, you will be alot > more likely to experience ignition noise on the radio if you're running any > kind electricly driven ignition system, you will also notice annoying > instrument light intesity fluctuations as gizmos are turned on and off and so > on. By regulating the voltage, you eliminate these annoying voltage > fluctuations. Also, the power originating from an alternating source is not > perfectly "flat" either, it still has a bit of AC component and you will likely > be able to "hear" your alternator on the radio unless it passes through a > regulator first. > > Mike Sharkey > X11 Development > SoftArc Inc. / Tridem Labs > http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey thealternator is regulating current to the batery the batery is capable to recieve higher voltage for a limited time when the batery is suficiently charged the regulator the disarms the alternator and is not a drag on the enjine power at that . end of discusion thanks eugene gargasz dad@centuryinter.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:31:04 -0500 From: Tom Andersen Subject: KR: Weight savings of Diehl wing skins Thanks everyone for the info on Diehl wing skins. Since they're about $1000 less than RR skins, I will be getting a set. Can anyone tell me what weight savings and what time/labor savings I can expect? I expect the smoothness of the finish would be far greater than built-up, and I expect they would be be lighter. If I still want to double-taper the spars, could I add small blocks where necessary to make the ribs fit? I've already started double-tapering my spars. - -Tom in Orlando PS. I have a KR2S website in the works! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:43:39 -0500 From: msharkey@softarc.com (Mike Sharkey) Subject: Re(3): KR: Alternator Re-wiring. krnet-l@teleport.com,Internet writes: >Assuming the following values: > > Vs (alternator output max voltage) 15v > Vz (desired regulated voltage) 13v > Il (load current max) 20A I was just re-thinking what I posted earlied, and it occured to me that in some cases it may only be nessesary to regulate the voltage supply to the instruments and radio, I mean you may not really care if your landing light gets slightly dimmer and brighter with engine RPM or has a bit of AC component. But a bigger plus in doing it this way is that it would be one less point of potential failure if systems like ignition, nav llights, etc.. are connected before the regulated supply. I.e. if you're regulator fails, you don't loose your ignition and nav lights. If you're interrested in just powering your instrument panel with the zener regulator, then just plug the appropriate values into the formulas I described and you will wind up with a much smaller circuit most likely because you should be talking about only 5 to 10 amps range I would guess. Mike Sharkey X11 Development SoftArc Inc. / Tridem Labs http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:19:53 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Weight savings of Diehl wing skins At 04:31 PM 1/29/98 -0500, you wrote: >Thanks everyone for the info on Diehl wing skins. Since they're about >$1000 less than RR skins, I will be getting a set. I was under the assumption the RR skins were over $4000! Humm,...maybe that was the T-decks and canopy. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh my,... its 1998! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:55:26 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: Re(2): KR: Alternator Re-wiring. At 13:52 1/29/98 -0500, Mike Sharkey wrote: >The first one I've just posted, is called "zener.gif", it describes a simple >zener diode regulator. Now, digging way back in the dark corners of my rusty >brain, I've come up with the following component values (someone please correct >me if I'm mistaken here): Since you asked, I will oblige: > >Assuming the following values: > > Vs (alternator output max voltage) 15v > Vz (desired regulated voltage) 13v > Il (load current max) 20A > An "ideal" voltage to a battery is considered to be 13.8v This maximizes the battery's life, usually. >then: > > the value of (R) is: > > R = Vs / Il = 15 / 20 = .75 ohm > Rw = Vs * Il = 15 * 20 = 300 watts Let's see: your diagram shows a shunt zener supplied by a source resistor. This resistor needs to drop a voltage of 15 volts ( your figure ) to 13 volts (your figure) when passing 20 amps. Thats 2 volts at 20 amps = 0.1 ohm. 40 watts That's your first two numbers in error. > > (note: this resistor must be capable of disipating 300 watts - if you can't >find a 300W resisor of this value, then use multiple wire wound ceramic type >resitors in parallel to get sufficient disipation if nessesary (preferably the >rectangular type resistors so they can be readily mounted to a plate aluminum >heat sink), but remember to divide the resitor value by the number of restors >to get the correct value. i.e. 1.5 ohm (150W min.) divide by 2 resistors = .75 >ohm (300W) ) > >and the value of (Z) is: > > Iz = (Vs - Vz) / R = (15 - 13) / .75 = 2.66A (amps) > Zw = ((Vs -Vz) / R) * Vz = ((15 - 13) / .75) * 13 = 34.5 watts Hmmm.... the maximum current to be sunk by the zener is all the current = 20 amps. 13 volts at 20 amps is 260 watts, so the component you mention below will pop. > >The NTE part number for a 50 watt 13 volt zener diode is "NTE 5255 A" and the >mechanical specs can be found at >http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey/Regulator/nte5255a.gif. The operating >temperature range for this device is from -65c to +175c > >I will look for a regulator curcuit I designed a few years back for a robotic >power supply regulator project, it's slightly more complicated than this zener >regulator, but dosn't require relatively the bulky high power resitors and >dosn't generate as much heat, it has rock solid voltage stability from 0 >current to max load (as opposed to the zener which will fluctuate just slightly >between 0 and max load), plus it's cheap, easy to construct with few >componets...anyway, I'll dig it out of my files when I get home and post it in >the same place as the zener regulator sometime in the next day or two. > > >Mike Sharkey >X11 Development >SoftArc Inc. / Tridem Labs >http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey > > > Wanna take another shot at it Mike? brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:56:36 -0500 From: Donald Reid Subject: KR: A/C safety. I posted the following message on my ultralight club webpage. It bears repeating. A veteran pilot was in serious but stable condition yesterday after being struck by an airplane propeller. Rucker Tibbs, 74 manager of the New London Airport, where he was hurt Tuesday night, was taken to the University Of Virginia trauma center, where doctors amputated his right arm above the elbow. He also suffered seveal broken bones. The accident occured while Tibbs was working on a single-engine plane. Tibbs, a member of the Virginia Aviation Hall of Fame, received his pilot's license in 1956. Since then, he has logged hundreds of hours searching for downed planes with the Civil Air Patrol and has trained numerour pilots. In 1992, he flew nearly 8,000 miles around the perimeter of the United States in a 1939 Piper Cub J-4 with a top speed of 75 mph, no radio, or heater. Please remember that the prop is the most dangerous part of an airplane, it can kill or cripple in an instant. - -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2S at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:25:41 EST From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: KR: Construction update, was re-wire. Ross, My HAPI is like your Great Plains accessory case in that it has a rectifier and regulator on it. I checked today on having it re-wired with smaller wire. If it turns out we'll get more bang for our buck and still be able to use the supplied rectifier and regulator, I'll post it, if not I can get by with 16 amps as my normal continuous draw will be less that. Construction update, I tangle with the octupus this weekend. I will finish my wiring and should be able to throw the switch and make things light up (hopefully not me). Dana Overall Richmond, KY kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:39:23, -0500 From: YCGB97A@prodigy.com (MR JEAN R VERON) Subject: KR: Weight savings of Diehl wing skins Tom My wings (Diehl skins ) are 10 lbs. lighter each than Martin Roberts ( my old original wings ). Each has 15 gal. fuel tanks in each wing and I have nav lights and strobes. Mine weigh 42 lbs. each . Jean N4DD ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:44:04 EST From: MikeTnyc@AOL.COM Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam > You can do this at least two ways. One is to cover the whole >area you are glassing with micro slurry. and let it harden then sand it >smooth then glass it. Problem with this is where you sand through the >slurry the foam will sand faster and leave divits or low spots. I would >make the slurry very dry. As dry as yiou can mix it. > Two you can cover the whole thing with slurry some what wet so >it will stick but be smooth. Then lay glass over the whole thing while >the slurry is still wet. I would wet the glass out first on some >polyethylene or plastic. Then lay the glass on the area you are >glassing. Then smooth it out. The glass should be very dry or almost >all of the epoxy squeegeed out of it before you lay it down. There's another way I saw in the KR Newsletter and mentioned here once, but I never got serious feedback on it. You can seal the foam, let it harden and sand it, but use something other than epoxy slurry -- waterproof glue (or even dilute carpenter's or white glue mixed with micro). Then use epoxy only when actually putting the glass on. The theory would be if the only purpose of the first coating is to seal the foam from soaking up epoxy, you might as well seal it with something lighter than epoxy. I have not tried this, but I plan to glass test squares of foam in the various ways before I build, and weight them. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 22:23:05 EST From: RFreibe131@aol.com Subject: KR: Microslurry thinned with acetone. As an experiment while laying up some non critica area, I mixed micro slurry by first mixing in all the balloons I could, then thinning with actone and mixing in a lot more. The resulting product was VERRY light, and cured up normally. I see no drawbacks to this process... I also tried pre-thinning the epoxy, and got a gueer looking mix which was lumpy. It looked ugly, so I threw it out. Ron Freiberger KR2S on the gear Fort Myers ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:32:22 From: Flesner Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam Darrin, I'm sure you will get at least 10 different opinions on sealing the foam and glassing. I'll share my experience as it seems to differ from the norm. I sealed my foam with slurry and allowed it to cure before glassing. It does not require sanding before glassing. The only sanding I did was one or two swipes with 120 grit on a soft pad to knock off the little barbs. This allowed me to move the dry glass on the foam without it snagging. You will figure out real quick how dry to mix the micro. If it's too dry it won't spread. I used the rubber squeege from Wicks and it works great. I think the advantages are: -- it cuts down the total amount of work to be done into smaller units. -- It allowed me to glass the entire KR without assistance. -- I think you get a lighter layup but can't prove it as I didn't make any measurements. The reason I think so is that you can focus on the slurry seal and using the squeege to get it as dry as possible(pulling as much back off as you can) without worring about getting on to the glass part. -- If you lay glass on slurry it starts to wet out from the slurry and is hard to move. With the curred slurry, I cut all the glass and layed it in place and had it positioned before wetting. I only folded back the overlaps. That way I knew I was only dealing with one task at a time. ( fit foam, sand foam, seal foam, cut glass, wet glass, etc.) -- when wetting out the glass, the sealed foam seemed course enough for a good bond , gave me a cured layer to limit the amount of resin soaking into the foam, was a hard enough surface that I could use considerable pressure on the glass with the squeege to get a nice dry layup. Too much pressure and you start to pull the glass and/or start to see the fiber "bristle". Hold the squeege at about a 45 degree angle for best results. I have had my wings setting out in the sun for hours at a time in their unpainted state and they got pretty warm. I've not seen any bubbles, separations, or other defects develop. My wing panels weigh in at 50 pounds each (less paint and aileron weight) and contain a 12.5 gallon tank in each panel complete with all fittings. Take a couple of pieces of foam and glass one each way and see what you think. Try pulling off the glass and see which bonds better. Let us know what happens. Larry (just about done wiring and am fitting the cowl) Flesner flesner@mychoice.net P.S. Trying to fit that 0-200 complete with mufflers and heat exchangers ` under that cowl makes me appreciate what Dolly Parton goes through every morning getting dressed !!!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:23:31 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam At 09:44 PM 1/29/98 EST, you wrote: >>> The theory would be if the only purpose of the first coating is to seal the foam from soaking up epoxy, you might as well seal it with something lighter than epoxy.>>> I think something a few of us are missing is the fact that the micro slurry (micro balloons and epoxy) and fiberglass skin are by design,.. supposed to be one component,...that is the slurry that is applied to the foam is one part with the glass. This gives it a little bit of peel strength. I think filling the foam with anything other than slurry made with epoxy (the same kind used to wetout the glass) and or letting it cure before you apply glass is asking for trouble. There are cases where delaminations have occured because different brands of epoxy were used in between layups much less Elmers Glue! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh My,.......Its 1998!! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:35:03 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Microslurry thinned with acetone. At 10:23 PM 1/29/98 EST, you wrote: >As an experiment while laying up some non critica area, I mixed micro slurry >by first mixing in all the balloons I could, then thinning with actone and >mixing in a lot more. The resulting product was VERRY light, and cured up >normally. I see no drawbacks to this process... > >I also tried pre-thinning the epoxy, and got a gueer looking mix which was >lumpy. It looked ugly, so I threw it out. > >Ron Freiberger KR2S on the gear Fort Myers Try acetone on a scrap piece of foam and see if it does anything. Personally, I think all this talk about letting slurry cure then glassing is kaka. But then I never thought faxes would catch on either. Ron "The Skeptic" Lee ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:38:02 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: glassing foam At 09:32 PM 1/29/98, you wrote: >>P.S. Trying to fit that 0-200 complete with mufflers and heat exchangers under that cowl makes me appreciate what Dolly Parton goes through every morning getting dressed !!!!!! > > I like it! KRs with big,.........motors, yea thats it big motors! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh My,.......Its 1998!! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:32:20 EST From: leperkins@juno.com (Lloyd Perkins,Jr.) Subject: Re: KR: ENOUGH ALREADY!!!!!!!!! Peter, No it wasnt your response that prompted that smoking E-Mail ... Too many response in general. Once I have the acft flying again I will be glad to fly with other people to show them what I know and also learn from them . Thank you for the concern, Best Regards, Lloyd On Mon, 26 Jan 1998 19:07:58 -0800 Peter Hudson writes: >Lloyd Perkins,Jr. wrote: >> >> WHAT WAS I THINKING!!!!!!!????? >> >> My Sincerest Apology to all those appropriated rated Pilots who I >must >> have offended >> Lloyd > >Wow, I hope that wasn't my fault. I wasn't even sure, I was just >asking >if it's OK. If so Lloyd, I offer my apology. > I think it would be a shame NOT to provide that service. I know >when >the time comes I'll be seeking out some KR dual time and would prefer >a >CFI if available. I'd gladly pay him/her whatever they wanted and >split >the gas too! > >-Peter Hudson- > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:02:51 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Voltage reg Mike S.- Yep; regarding voltage regulation, I agree completely on the necessity; my comment was in reference to an _additional_ element in the circuitry, or an additional stage of regulation due to the alternator output being way beyond the nominal 13V after a homebrew rewind. You also wrote: > (note: this resistor must be capable of disipating 300 watts Hachhha! Mount the unit in the scat tubing going to the cabin air supply... -->cabin heat! Just kidding ;o) Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:52:18 -0700 From: cartera@cuug.ab.ca Subject: Re: KR: Mystery housing Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 08:54 PM 1/28/98 -0600, you wrote: > >Ken Cornelius brought me an accessory case like I've never seen before ( > http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/mhousing.jpg ). Anybody know who made>>>>>>>> > > Mark that could be an old HAPI unit, the mounting lugs in his matched up > with an O-200 (top two are closer together) > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Oh My,.......Its 1998!! > > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims Mark, To me, it looks like an old HAPI unit also. - -- Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:17:39 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. At 04:15 PM 1/29/98 -0500, you wrote: >thealternator is regulating current to the batery the batery is capable >to recieve higher voltage for a limited time when the batery is >suficiently charged the regulator the disarms the alternator and is not >a drag on the enjine power at that . end of discusion>> Don't think so, at least that's not whut they teached us in shop class, Ill tell ya whut. Battery is only used for starting and the alternator provides power for the electrical system and to maintain peek charge on the battery of the car, airplane, boat etc. Then again maybe my shop teacher didn't know what he was talking about. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh my,... its 1998! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 22:50:41 -0800 From: Ross Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. Mike, In my case, I am just thinking of regulating the avionics side of the electrical bus. A couple of LM7812 or equiv should do the trick nicely. My Terra radio & transponder is light on the current, and actually I wouldn't be suprised if they have a regulator inside, but I'm not going to open them up to look. -- Regards Ross Mike Sharkey wrote: > > krnet-l@teleport.com,Internet writes: > >Assuming the following values: > > > > Vs (alternator output max voltage) 15v > > Vz (desired regulated voltage) 13v > > Il (load current max) 20A > > I was just re-thinking what I posted earlied, and it occured to me that in some > cases it may only be nessesary to regulate the voltage supply to the > instruments and radio, I mean you may not really care if your landing light > gets slightly dimmer and brighter with engine RPM or has a bit of AC component. > But a bigger plus in doing it this way is that it would be one less point of > potential failure if systems like ignition, nav llights, etc.. are connected > before the regulated supply. I.e. if you're regulator fails, you don't loose > your ignition and nav lights. > > If you're interrested in just powering your instrument panel with the zener > regulator, then just plug the appropriate values into the formulas I described > and you will wind up with a much smaller circuit most likely because you should > be talking about only 5 to 10 amps range I would guess. > > Mike Sharkey > X11 Development > SoftArc Inc. / Tridem Labs > http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:49:38 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: FWD from Steve Bennett (ALTERNATORS) At 01:59 AM 1/29/98 -0800, you wrote: >I don't condiser the Suzuki or Chevy Sprint alternator to be a Small >alternator. The only small one is made for Kubota Ind. engines, it >outputs 14 amps, belt driven field pulse type alternator like we >currently use and is only about 4.5 inches in dia. Steve > Well for the first time I think I have to disagree with Steve. The small ND alternator that can be seen at: ftp://ftp.pilgrimhouse.com/pub/DropBox/StartersAlternators%26Pulleys/MiniNDA lt.jpg IS VERY small! More information below. Nippon-Denso "Mini" Capacity: 40A Weight: 6# even with v-pulley ... NO Lester# at the moment, N-D OEM prod. ND OEM Part #'s: (directly off the ND label) 887251 101211-1020 Source & contact information: e-mail: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com $Expect $175 no core charge. Completely and utterly brand new. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh my,... its 1998! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:55:26 -0800 From: Douglas Dorfmeier Subject: KR: Instrumentation I discovered a company called Digifly that makes LCD instrumements that are very light weight and display both engine monitoring and flight instruments on the same screen. If you would like to check them out you can view their Web Site at http://www.vol.it/digifly ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:52:40 -0500 From: msharkey@softarc.com (Mike Sharkey) Subject: Re(2): KR: Alternator Re-wiring. krnet-l@teleport.com,Internet writes: >If the voltage is too high in your alternator you can take >heavy duty silicon diodes that will handle the amperage expected and >simply put them in series with the output. The voltage drop is around .4 >or .5 volts under load and there is no other circuitry to consider. THe >only downside is that it will drop the same voltage when the alternator >is not spinning as fast but it is a simple solution to dropping a couple >of volts. I used to use a string of them on a trolling motor to get >voltage drop for slower speeds. The heat generated is minimal but >diodes in the 15 or 20 amp range have threaded studs for mounting and >heat dissipation. This plan will indeed drop the voltage at the diode junction by about .5 volts per diode, but this will only, like you say, make the output voltage track the input voltage (i.e. Vs - .5v). So it really does nothing to curb electrical noise and other transients and voltage fluctuations that may originate at the alternator output. I will begin to post some simple voltage regulator circuits at http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey/Regulator The first one I've just posted, is called "zener.gif", it describes a simple zener diode regulator. Now, digging way back in the dark corners of my rusty brain, I've come up with the following component values (someone please correct me if I'm mistaken here): Assuming the following values: Vs (alternator output max voltage) 15v Vz (desired regulated voltage) 13v Il (load current max) 20A then: the value of (R) is: R = Vs / Il = 15 / 20 = .75 ohm Rw = Vs * Il = 15 * 20 = 300 watts (note: this resistor must be capable of disipating 300 watts - if you can't find a 300W resisor of this value, then use multiple wire wound ceramic type resitors in parallel to get sufficient disipation if nessesary (preferably the rectangular type resistors so they can be readily mounted to a plate aluminum heat sink), but remember to divide the resitor value by the number of restors to get the correct value. i.e. 1.5 ohm (150W min.) divide by 2 resistors = .75 ohm (300W) ) and the value of (Z) is: Iz = (Vs - Vz) / R = (15 - 13) / .75 = 2.66A (amps) Zw = ((Vs -Vz) / R) * Vz = ((15 - 13) / .75) * 13 = 34.5 watts The NTE part number for a 50 watt 13 volt zener diode is "NTE 5255 A" and the mechanical specs can be found at http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey/Regulator/nte5255a.gif. The operating temperature range for this device is from -65c to +175c I will look for a regulator curcuit I designed a few years back for a robotic power supply regulator project, it's slightly more complicated than this zener regulator, but dosn't require relatively the bulky high power resitors and dosn't generate as much heat, it has rock solid voltage stability from 0 current to max load (as opposed to the zener which will fluctuate just slightly between 0 and max load), plus it's cheap, easy to construct with few componets...anyway, I'll dig it out of my files when I get home and post it in the same place as the zener regulator sometime in the next day or two. Mike Sharkey X11 Development SoftArc Inc. / Tridem Labs http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V2 #28 ****************************