From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Saturday, January 31, 1998 7:57 PM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #29 krnet-l-digest Saturday, January 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 029 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 03:52:22 -0500 From: dadg@centuryinter.net Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 04:15 PM 1/29/98 -0500, you wrote: > >thealternator is regulating current to the batery the batery is capable > >to recieve higher voltage for a limited time when the batery is > >suficiently charged the regulator the disarms the alternator and is not > >a drag on the enjine power at that . end of discusion>> > > Don't think so, at least that's not whut they teached us in shop class, Ill > tell ya whut. Battery is only used for starting and the alternator provides > power for the electrical system and to maintain peek charge on the battery > of the car, airplane, boat etc. Then again maybe my shop teacher didn't > know what he was talking about. > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Oh my,... its 1998! > > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims hi When the altinator quits the batery will furnish current till its charge runs out on most auto regulator check read outs 12 volt sytems call for14 or 15 volts I had a caddy that had rectifiers to protect the computers for accurate volt feeds required. thanks eugene gargasz dadg@ centuryinter.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 07:23:24 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: Re(2): KR: Alternator Re-wiring. At 13:52 1/29/98 -0500, you wrote: > the value of (R) is: > > R = Vs / Il = 15 / 20 = .75 ohm > Rw = Vs * Il = 15 * 20 = 300 watts > > (note: this resistor must be capable of disipating 300 watts ... >Mike Sharkey > S'funny: it looked all wrong yesterday, and it still looks all wrong today! :-) brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 07:17:56 -0600 From: Ed Janssen Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety. Thanks, Don. I think we need constant reminders about the possibility of this type of accident. Some of us still "Armstrong" our VW to life. Particularly for your ultralight group: A few years back, we had a young fellow (20's) who backed into the prop of a running engine on a Challenger which was attending the North Central EAA "Old Fashioned Fly-In in Rock Falls, IL.. REALLY scarey situation! Ended up having about 8 square inches of his scalp reattached. This guy was a member of our EAA Chapter and "gung-ho" to help park aircraft, but had little/no experience around ultralights, but learned quickly - and the hard way. A good safety briefing might have prevented the accident. Ed Janssen At 07:56 PM 1/29/98 -0500, you wrote: >I posted the following message on my ultralight club webpage. It bears >repeating. > >A veteran pilot was in serious but stable condition yesterday after >being struck by an airplane propeller. >Rucker Tibbs, 74 manager of the New London Airport, where he was hurt >Tuesday night, was taken to the University Of Virginia trauma center, >where doctors amputated his right arm above the elbow. He also suffered >seveal broken bones. >The accident occured while Tibbs was working on a single-engine plane. >Tibbs, a member of the Virginia Aviation Hall of Fame, received his >pilot's license in 1956. Since then, he has logged hundreds of hours >searching for downed planes with the Civil Air Patrol and has trained >numerour pilots. >In 1992, he flew nearly 8,000 miles around the perimeter of the United >States in a 1939 Piper Cub J-4 with a top speed of 75 mph, no radio, or >heater. > >Please remember that the prop is the most dangerous part of an airplane, >it can kill or cripple in an instant. > >-- >Don Reid >Bumpass, Va. >mailto:donreid@erols.com >KR2S at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm >Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 05:45:18 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: A/C safety Hey, Ed- Why are your comments particularly for the ultralight group? Neil Bingham's article about "Keeping the KR light" says that you can drop your KR's weight using serious surgery... by about 100 lbs.... but you have to be willing to sacrifice the electric system. That means Armstrong all the way. I think it's VERY applicable to KRs, since in this case, the physics lesson is: light=speed. The guys who want all-out birds will be running without electrics, and will be around that prop a lot. If a guy forgets how mean that warm wooden prop can be, it won't be too long before he finds out. I started out in a J-3, and lesson #1 was how to hand-prop. Short story: a guy here in Oregon, very involved in aviation and homebuilding (has a 180HP Pacer with clipped wings) was chairman of a fly-in and airshow, and also worked the line. He sold his plane and almost gave up the sport altogether after a T'craft on the ramp was hand-propped, ran away from the idiot (oops, pilot) and destroyed a little girl in the crowd... right in front of her mother. The guy saw the whole thing happen. I know, it sounds like I'm making this up to make it sound sad, but it happened. I say again: this is supposed to be _fun_, so let's make it so! Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 06:59:52 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: FWD from Steve Bennett (ALTERNATORS) Me agres with Mike. AS a previous posting alluded to, add a bracket and fan belt and you may be up to 10 pounds. That is good for CG and a very valuable safety device (compared to hand-propping). You makes your choices but I would save weight somewhere else (like losing 5 pounds of body fat... ok, 10 pounds). Ron Lee >Well for the first time I think I have to disagree with Steve. The small ND >alternator that can be seen at: > >ftp://ftp.pilgrimhouse.com/pub/DropBox/StartersAlternators%26Pulleys/MiniNDA >lt.jpg > >IS VERY small! More information below. > >Nippon-Denso "Mini" > Capacity: 40A > Weight: 6# even > with v-pulley ... NO Lester# at the moment, N-D OEM prod. > ND OEM Part #'s: (directly off the ND label) > 887251 > 101211-1020 >Source & contact information: > e-mail: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com >$Expect > $175 no core charge. Completely and utterly brand new. >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims >Oh my,... its 1998! > >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net >http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 07:18:16 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: FWD from Steve Bennett (ALTERNATORS) At 06:59 AM 1/30/98 -0700, you wrote: >Me agrees with Mike. As a previous posting alluded to, add a bracket and >fan belt and you may be up to 10 pounds. That is good for CG and a very >valuable safety device (compared to hand-propping). You makes your choices >but I would save weight somewhere else (like losing 5 pounds of body fat... >ok, 10 pounds). > >Ron Lee > Of course you need a starter as well to eliminate hand propping. :) Ron ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 09:45:22 -0500 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: KR: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Last-A-Foam=A9?= FYI for anyone who doesnt want to wait for AS+S General Plastics Manufacturing Company 4910 Burlington Way Tacoma WA 98409-0000Contact: Henry Floyd Email: gpsales@generalplastics.com V: (206)473-5000 F: (206)473-5104 Exclusive Manufacturer of Last-A-Foam© rigid and flexible polyurethane foam used in transportation and handling containers, equipment, etc. of nuclear materials Richard Parker Jaffrey, NH ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 11:24:11 -0800 From: Tom Crawford Subject: KR: Revmaster I have a Revmaster 2100D engine for sale. Complete except for a carb. Has intake m-fold, exhaust, Bendix dual mag, oil cooler, vacuum pump mount, etc. Appears to have only been test run. No wear visible. Has been in storage for a long time. Best offer. Contact me direct for details. Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 10:12:00 -0700 From: cartera@cuug.ab.ca Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > Hey, Ed- > > Why are your comments particularly for the ultralight group? Neil > Bingham's article about "Keeping the KR light" says that you can drop > your KR's weight using serious surgery... by about 100 lbs.... but you > have to be willing to sacrifice the electric system. That means > Armstrong all the way. I think it's VERY applicable to KRs, since in > this case, the physics lesson is: light=speed. The guys who want > all-out birds will be running without electrics, and will be around that > prop a lot. If a guy forgets how mean that warm wooden prop can be, it > won't be too long before he finds out. I started out in a J-3, and > lesson #1 was how to hand-prop. > > Short story: a guy here in Oregon, very involved in aviation and > homebuilding (has a 180HP Pacer with clipped wings) was chairman of a > fly-in and airshow, and also worked the line. He sold his plane and > almost gave up the sport altogether after a T'craft on the ramp was > hand-propped, ran away from the idiot (oops, pilot) and destroyed a > little girl in the crowd... right in front of her mother. The guy saw > the whole thing happen. I know, it sounds like I'm making this up to > make it sound sad, but it happened. > > I say again: this is supposed to be _fun_, so let's make it so! > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, Oregon > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Hi Gang, To all that hand prop - instead of standing in front and then walking around the wing. Just stand in front of the wing and hand prop it from behind that way you have immediate access to the throttle and if it wants to move forward, your right there in front of the wing. This is the way I always handpropped mine. Good idea to prime with switch off and pull it through 3-4 times before switch on. Any flamers, don't bother I won't listen - have been doing this for years. This method was suggested to me by my DOC inspector who is also a high time pilot. Good Luck! - -- Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 09:28:03 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety At 10:12 AM 1/30/98 -0700, you wrote: >Hi Gang, >To all that hand prop - instead of standing in front and then walking >around the wing. Just stand in front of the wing and hand prop it from >behind that way you have immediate access to the throttle and if it >wants to move forward, your right there in front of the wing. This is >the way I always handpropped mine. Good idea to prime with switch off >and pull it through 3-4 times before switch on. Any flamers, don't >bother I won't listen - have been doing this for years. >This method was suggested to me by my DOC inspector who is also a high time pilot.>> Yep that's the way I propped our T-crate and it worked great! It is very common to see guys propping everything from t-crates to super cubs this way up north. If you hand prop, try it you will like it! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Oh My,.......Its 1998!! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 13:55:35 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: KR: PerryKosh in Kitplanes Don't miss the March issue of Kitplanes. The Dawn Patroll did a great 4 page article about Perry for Kitplanes. THis is a don't miss article! Great coverage and KRNet gets a good plug to boot. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 14:01:16 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: KR: 9 pages of KR's in Kitplanes Wow, I wrote the last post about the Perry coverage before flipping farther through the March Kitplanes. On page 80 a six count 'em six page article on the KR-2S starts. I guess we are the focus airplane of the issue! Great work Kitplanes. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 18:00:07 EST From: JEHayward@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety In a message dated 98-01-30 12:22:35 EST, you write: << Just stand in front of the wing and hand prop it from behind that way you have immediate access to the throttle and if it wants to move forward, your right there in front of the wing. This is the way I always handpropped mine. >> Hey Adrian, this is the way I've seen a couple of people do it at KR fly- in's. What do they say.... if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Jim Hayward ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 15:56:27 -0800 From: "John F. Esch" Subject: KR: My wood has arrived Too all I received my wood from AS&S today 30Jan98. 3 weeks to the day of ordering! Time to get busy cutting/glueing and to start asking questions. Woo Hoo John F. Esch Salem, OR http://www.cyberis.net/~sesch ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 18:22:24 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: My wood has arrived At 03:56 PM 1/30/98 -0800, you wrote: >Too all > >I received my wood from AS&S today 30Jan98. 3 weeks to the day of >ordering! Time to get busy cutting/glueing and to start asking >questions. Woo Hoo > >John F. Esch >Salem, OR >http://www.cyberis.net/~sesch > Just a hint. Ask questions first AND..... measure twice, verify the plans dimension, re-measure, then cut. Ron ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 20:23:13 EST From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: My wood has arrived In a message dated 98-01-30 18:56:42 EST, you write: << I received my wood from AS&S today 30Jan98. 3 weeks to the day of ordering! Time to get busy cutting/glueing and to start asking questions. Woo Hoo John F. Esch >> John, Good boating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dana Overall Richmond, KY kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 19:37:33 EST From: RFreibe131@aol.com Subject: KR: Hand Prop with a Hook On other airplanes I have owned, I installed a (reduced size) Sailplane hook. This is a little link you swivel over a hook so that you can TIE the tail securely. Then, when you're done proping and warming up and etcetra, you pull a release which opens the hook. It just flops open, and you reset it the next time you fly.On a Cassutt I built that had engine problems, the effort was more than repaid by the convenience. This is a very simple, light device that's really easy to include while you're building, and will pay for itself before you've finished ground run- ins. It will greatly enhance safety (especially every time you leave the switch on and drain the battery). Wouldn't happen to you, right? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 16:42:16 -0700 From: cartera@cuug.ab.ca Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety JEHayward@aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 98-01-30 12:22:35 EST, you write: > > << Just stand in front of the wing and hand prop it from > behind that way you have immediate access to the throttle and if it > wants to move forward, your right there in front of the wing. This is > the way I always handpropped mine. >> > > Hey Adrian, this is the way I've seen a couple of people do it at KR fly- > in's. > What do they say.... if it ain't broke, don't fix it. > > Jim Hayward Hi Jim, You got it!!!!! - -- Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 20:27:02 -0600 From: Ed Janssen Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety & more Oscar, The comment WAS for the KR group of guys. That's really why I posted it. In fact it is appropriate for all propdrivers. The ultralight comment was intended for the particular ultralight group that Don Reid belongs to and for which he recently made a website. Thought he might want to use my story. Also, you'll get no argument from me about keeping the KR light - the only way to go (fast). Unrelatedly speaking -Another little interesting bit of KR history for the group: I received a call from a fellow in Maryland that was interested in buying my KR-1 project. He claims to work for the company that made some original CAD drawings for Ken Rand. He said that Ken had given the company a KR-2 kit in exchange for the drawings they did for him. He said that the kit has been sitting around all this time and was just recently auctioned off because no one wanted to do anything with it. Ed Janssen >Hey, Ed- > >Why are your comments particularly for the ultralight group? Neil >Bingham's article about "Keeping the KR light" says that you can drop >your KR's weight using serious surgery... by about 100 lbs.... but you >have to be willing to sacrifice the electric system. That means >Armstrong all the way. I think it's VERY applicable to KRs, since in >this case, the physics lesson is: light=speed. >Oscar Zuniga ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 17:51:25 -0800 From: MARVIN MCCOY Subject: Re: KR: 9 pages of KR's in Kitplanes Steven A Eberhart wrote: > > Wow, > > I wrote the last post about the Perry coverage before flipping farther > through the March Kitplanes. On page 80 a six count 'em six page article > on the KR-2S starts. I guess we are the focus airplane of the issue! > > Great work Kitplanes. > > Steve-------------------- The KR has finally come of age. It just keeps getting better and better. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field mr.marvin@worldnet.att.net - --------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 20:33:51 -0600 From: Ed Janssen Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety >Hi Gang, >To all that hand prop - instead of standing in front and then walking >around the wing. Just stand in front of the wing and hand prop it from >behind that way you have immediate access to the throttle and if it >wants to move forward, your right there in front of the wing. This is >the way I always handpropped mine. >Adrian VE6AFY I'm sure there are some who do it differently, but I've personally never seen anyone handpropping a VW on a KR any other way than what you describe. Ed Janssen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 21:01:42 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: A/C safety At 08:33 PM 1/30/98 -0600, you wrote: >>Hi Gang, >>To all that hand prop - instead of standing in front and then walking >>around the wing. Just stand in front of the wing and hand prop it from >>behind that way you have immediate access to the throttle and if it >>wants to move forward, your right there in front of the wing. This is >>the way I always handpropped mine. >>Adrian VE6AFY > >I'm sure there are some who do it differently, but I've personally never >seen anyone handpropping a VW on a KR any other way than what you describe. > >Ed Janssen > Oops, I guess I blew it. I hand propped a KR (unknown engine) at Perry by standing in front of it. However, as far as the PILOT propping the plane, Troy Petteway uses that procedure (behind prop). Seemed to work quite well. Ron ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 22:15:15 -0500 From: Tom Andersen Subject: Re: KR: My wood has arrived John F. Esch wrote: > > Too all > > I received my wood from AS&S today 30Jan98. 3 weeks to the day of > ordering! Time to get busy cutting/glueing and to start asking > questions. Woo Hoo > > John F. Esch > Salem, OR > http://www.cyberis.net/~sesch Some things I found helpful was to make my cuts to within 1/16" of the line and then sand down to the line. A belt/disc sander was well worth it, especially the disc sander. The sticks are the easy part, it's all those little triangles that need the precision. A sanding block with 80 grit is great for the final fitting of the pieces. I used some small brads to hold them in place while the epoxy cured. I just pushed the brads in 1/8" at each edge of the triangle and that did the trick. Oh, and do the triangles AFTER the sticks are glued in place. I found it helpful to mix some flox in the epoxy to thicken it and keep it from running out of the joints. Flox is short cotton fibers and is structural so it does not weaken the joints in small quantities. Strive for 95% contact in your wood joints. You'd be surprised how accurately you can sand wood. Good luck! - -Tom ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 21:33:06 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Progress Update I have two new photos at http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/CurrentProject.html These were taken earlier this month. I have installed the antenna since these photos were taken. -- Regards ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 21:35:19 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: PerryKosh in Kitplanes Is it March Yet! Cool I can't wait. Steven A Eberhart wrote: > Don't miss the March issue of Kitplanes. The Dawn Patroll did a great 4 > page article about Perry for Kitplanes. THis is a don't miss article! > > Great coverage and KRNet gets a good plug to boot. > > Steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 21:38:54 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: My wood has arrived Builders tip. I found that one thing to do while waiting for the epoxy to cure is try to sleep. Makes the time go faster. John F. Esch wrote: > Too all > > I received my wood from AS&S today 30Jan98. 3 weeks to the day of > ordering! Time to get busy cutting/glueing and to start asking > questions. Woo Hoo > > John F. Esch > Salem, OR > http://www.cyberis.net/~sesch ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 01:49:26 EST From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Alternator Re-wiring. > If the voltage is too high in your alternator you can take >heavy duty silicon diodes that will handle the amperage expected and >simply put them in series with the output. The voltage drop is around .4 >or .5 volts under load and there is no other circuitry to consider. THe >only downside is that it will drop the same voltage when the alternator >is not spinning as fast but it is a simple solution to dropping a couple >of volts. > The heat generated is minimal but diodes in the 15 or 20 amp range >have threaded studs for mounting and heat dissipation. The result would be similar using a zener diode except that it would not have this downside. A zener does not conduct when the voltage is low, then when the voltage rises to a certain value, it begins conducting everything above that value to ground. For a battery-charging circuit, you'd want the trigger- voltage to be about 14 volts. Then, you'd simply run a wire from the "hot" side to ground with the zener at the end of it. This kind of regulation system is primitive since you're throwing away the excess power. However, it works great if the amount of power to be dissipated is small. English motorcycles have used this system for many years, and the zener on my '72 Norton Commando may be the only Lucas part on the bike that's never given me any trouble. II'd put a switch or a fuse in series with any zener on a plane, however, it so in the unlikely event that it fried itself into a dead-short, you'd get it out of the circuit before it grounded your electrical system. Mike Taglieri P.S. If anyone wants to use a Lucas zener on the Great Plains alternator, I think it would have enough capacity, and they cost about $20 at any English bike shop. However, be careful of the polarity you get because most English motorcycles are positive ground, so the majority of zeners you'll find for sale will have the wrong polarity. You can't just turn the thing around because they have threaded studs for heat dissipation and this has to be on the "cold" side. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 07:47:17 -0500 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: Re: KR: My wood has arrived > John F. Esch wrote: > > > > Too all > > > > I received my wood from AS&S today 30Jan98. 3 weeks to the day of > > ordering! Time to get busy cutting/glueing and to start asking > > questions. Woo Hoo > > > > John F. Esch > > Salem, OR > > http://www.cyberis.net/~sesch I'm still waiting for eagerly for mine. I wonder how much the shipping costs to New Hampshire.I didnt ask. Rich Parker Jaffrey, NH ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 07:45:22 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: Progress Update I can almost see this project shaking out its feathers and flying away. THEN who's gonna run the list? Brian At 21:33 1/30/98 -0800, you wrote: >I have two new photos at >http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/CurrentProject.html > >These were taken earlier this month. I have installed the antenna since >these >photos were taken. > > -- Regards > > > brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 09:30:37 -0600 From: "A.Doherty" Subject: KR: push to talk switch Hey people Can anyone give me a hint as to how to wire in a ppt switch? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 09:53:36 -0800 From: "John F. Esch" Subject: Re: KR: My wood has arrived I don't know if this will give any idea of what shipping will cost, but mine cost $62.00. AS&S to Salem, OR. John Richard Parker wrote: > > John F. Esch wrote: > > > > > > Too all > > > > > > I received my wood from AS&S today 30Jan98. 3 weeks to the day of > > > > ordering! Time to get busy cutting/glueing and to start asking > > > questions. Woo Hoo > > > > > > John F. Esch > > > Salem, OR > > > http://www.cyberis.net/~sesch > > I'm still waiting for eagerly for mine. I wonder how much the shipping > > costs to New Hampshire.I didnt ask. > > Rich Parker > Jaffrey, NH ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 12:35:11 -0600 From: "A.Doherty" Subject: KR: noise filters Hi folks I just purchased an Icomm A22 and am using a dc adapter in a cigarette socket for power, but there's quit a bit of engine noise. Can anyone fill me in on noise filters.....how to install...... where to get..... etc???? Thanks AL ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 12:48:38 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: noise filters At 12:35 1/31/98 -0600, you wrote: >Hi folks >I just purchased an Icomm A22 and am using a dc adapter in a cigarette >socket for power, but there's quit a bit of engine noise. >Can anyone fill me in on noise filters.....how to install...... where to >get..... etc???? >Thanks >AL > There's radiated and there's power-line noise. There are two sources basically *the magneto or ignition *the alternator Shorting the radio antenna socket would clue you in to whether its radiated. Running off a battery would clue you in if its power-line noise. The usual remedies: power-line. A cap close to the generator. A shielded wire to the regulator. The Rat Shack has line interference filters Ignition. Shielded plug wires Relocate the antenna so it can't see the noisy ignition. I hear it can be a black-art - if you have a bad case..... Brian brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 13:41:33 EST From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: push to talk switch In a message dated 98-01-31 10:24:58 EST, you write: << From: adoherty@MINET.gov.MB.CA (A.Doherty) Sender: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com Reply-to: krnet-l@teleport.com To: krnet-l@teleport.com (krnet-l@teleport.com) Hey people Can anyone give me a hint as to how to wire in a ppt switch? >> Al, I'm wiring in my PTT switch tommorrow and tying my radio and intercom together. I am using a panel mount intercom, with a stick mounted PTT switch. My schematic shows the break coming from the pilot mic ground (barrel of mic jack) and the pilot mic PTT (tip of mic jack or mic key on the radio harness). You should be be able to connect these at your headphone jack or at your harness whichever is easier for you. If you would like, e-mail be privately and I scan my hand drawn schematic, you''ll just have to disregard my pin numbers.. Dana Overall Richmond, KY kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 16:00:07 -0600 From: "A.Doherty" Subject: Re: KR: noise filters brian whatcott wrote: > At 12:35 1/31/98 -0600, you wrote: > >Hi folks > >I just purchased an Icomm A22 and am using a dc adapter in a cigarette > >socket for power, but there's quit a bit of engine noise. > >Can anyone fill me in on noise filters.....how to install...... where to > >get..... etc???? > >Thanks > >AL > > > There's radiated and there's power-line noise. > There are two sources basically > *the magneto or ignition > *the alternator > > Shorting the radio antenna socket would clue you in to whether its radiated. > Running off a battery would clue you in if its power-line noise. > > The usual remedies: > power-line. > A cap close to the generator. > A shielded wire to the regulator. > The Rat Shack has line interference filters > > Ignition. > Shielded plug wires > > Relocate the antenna so it can't see the noisy ignition. > > I hear it can be a black-art - if you have a bad case..... > Brian > brian whatcott > Altus OK ok brian I.'ve run the radio off it's own battery source and still get noise. I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electronics, so could you explain how to short the antenna socket......... and just what am I looking for!!!! Relocating the antenna.........I presume you mean relocate the antenna socket which is presently on the panel. (god I need help!!!!!!!!) Thanks Al ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 16:28:25 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: noise filters At 16:00 1/31/98 -0600, you wrote: >... >> There's radiated and there's power-line noise. >> There are two sources basically >> *the magneto or ignition >> *the alternator >> >> Shorting the radio antenna socket would clue you in to whether its radiated. >> Running off a battery would clue you in if its power-line noise. >>... >> Ignition. >> Shielded plug wires >> >> Relocate the antenna so it can't see the noisy ignition. >I.'ve run the radio off it's own battery source and still get noise. > > explain how to short >the antenna socket......... and just what am I looking for!!!! > >Relocating the antenna.........I presume you mean relocate the antenna socket >which is presently on the panel.... >Thanks >Al This is gonna be easy! We are guessing the noise is getting in via the antenna. If you disconnect the antenna cable - the noise stops? If yes: move the actual antenna whip ( if that's what you are using) away from the engine. No: let's start at the beginning: 1) where is the antenna? 2) what does it look like? 3) how does it connect to the radio? Brian brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 16:48:04 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Progress Update brian whatcott wrote: > I can almost see this project shaking out its feathers and flying away. > THEN who's gonna run the list? > > Brian > > At 21:33 1/30/98 -0800, you wrote: > >I have two new photos at > >http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/CurrentProject.html > > > >These were taken earlier this month. I have installed the antenna since > >these > >photos were taken. > > > > -- Regards > > > > > > > brian whatcott > Altus OK No fear of this... I'm too much of a computer geek to give this list up. I'm more likely to quit being president of the local EAA chapter... that is a lot of extra work (but fun). -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 16:58:48 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: push to talk switch From the schematics I have for my Terra radio, the PTT switch simply grounds the PTT line to the radio. So the wiring is pretty simple... unless of course you have a two line intercom. You can solder the line onto the PTT line of your mic jack, but then if your PTT switch shorts you are SOL, you need some way of disconnecting the switch in case it shorts out. Aircraft Spruce sells the Mic Jacks for about $2.50 ea, and they also sell the plugs, and if you look hard enough, you might be able to get another plug and build a inline PTT switch. However you can buy these for about $18.00 so I don't think you save much $$$. I have some momentary switches I bought at radio shack, and I am- thinking about placing one into the stick grip. Radio ---> PTT -----------------------> Switch <----| Radio ---> GND ---------------------------------------| Closing the switch grounds the PTT line. On a battery operated radio, you need to make sure you connect to the GND line of the radio's jack. In my case the radio is panel mounted so I can use aircraft ground... which on a wooden airplane, is another wire. - -- Regards Ross A.Doherty wrote: > Hey people > Can anyone give me a hint as to how to wire in a ppt switch? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 17:10:39 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: noise filters First, you need to know if the noise is RF noise (picked up by the antenna) or power supply noise. If you can run the A22 on batteries, with the engine running then you are probably dealing with alternator or engine noise being broadcast to your radio. You need to work on shielding your ignition and or the power coming from the alternator. You can use shielded wiring from your alternator, or if like me this is too late, you can get shielding in different diameters from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks and put this over the line. I would get some heat shrink tubing to dress up the ends, so they don't fray etc. If you are dealing with power supply noise, you can put a capicator filter on the line. Radio shack sells special "filters", but you can get away with just about any type of capacitor as long as the voltage rating is high enough (in the case of electrolitics/ tantilums). I would make sure that the capicator is on the other side of a fuse as occasionally capacitors will short out, and cause problems after a few years. Tantilums make great filter caps, but they also make nice flames when they short out. I would probably look at a 30uF to 500uF capicator if you think you are having problems on the DC line. They are cheap (less than $2.00), so if they don't work you haven't spent the big bucks. -- Regards Ross A.Doherty wrote: > Hi folks > I just purchased an Icomm A22 and am using a dc adapter in a cigarette > socket for power, but there's quit a bit of engine noise. > Can anyone fill me in on noise filters.....how to install...... where to > get..... etc???? > Thanks > AL ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 19:12:59 From: Austin Clark Subject: KR: Progress, Jan. 98 January was a good month. I was able to put 85 construction hours on the KR. - Finished my aluminum seat frames ** - Glassed the horizontal stabilizer with NAV antenna in the core ** - Cut hinge bolt access holes in the elevator ** - Fit the elevator to the hor. stabilizer and glassed the concave - Fabricated the aileron bellcranks ** - Laminated the firewall with fiberfrax and stainless steel - Began work on the main gear legs ** pictures on my web page Since April, 1997 - 632 hours and still having fun building! - ------------------------------------------------------------ Austin Clark Pascagoula, MS http://www.datasync.com/~itac/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 17:43:34 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Progress, Jan. 98 Austin, A terrific Website! I will try and include your site into krnet.org next time I update it. I need to be better orginized. I appriciate your efforts to include the links that you have on your site. Also particulary like your reference to Mark Langfords History of the KR. http://www.datasync.com/~itac Austin Clark wrote: > January was a good month. I was able to put 85 construction hours on the KR. > > - Finished my aluminum seat frames ** > - Glassed the horizontal stabilizer with NAV antenna in the core ** > - Cut hinge bolt access holes in the elevator ** > - Fit the elevator to the hor. stabilizer and glassed the concave > - Fabricated the aileron bellcranks ** > - Laminated the firewall with fiberfrax and stainless steel > - Began work on the main gear legs > > ** pictures on my web page > > Since April, 1997 - 632 hours and still having fun building! > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > Austin Clark > Pascagoula, MS > http://www.datasync.com/~itac/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 19:01:42 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Progress Update >brian whatcott wrote: > >> I can almost see this project shaking out its feathers and flying away. >> THEN who's gonna run the list? Great looking plane Ross. Just needs more blue! I did not find a place in your web site that explain the attachment method for the turtledeck. I am also curious whether it is structural, and if so, what did you do to accommodate that. Ron ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 20:07:51 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Progress Update Ron, Well technically, the aft deck is NON-structural in my case. However, I wanted to build in some rollover protection. Both the aft deck and the canopy have bulkheads in them to support the structure in the case of a rollover. I don't believe this structure is fully crashworthy. It does however provide a stable place to place your weight when entering and exiting the airplane. Someday I may add an aluminum roll bar structure and seatbelt harness attach point frame. Both the canopy frame and the aft deck were hand layed up using Kevlar, this stuff is super light when done, but is very TOUGH to cut. Trimming the canopy frame around the plexiglas was a real challange. Much more so than normal glass. The aft deck is attached to the fuselage with two 6' long extruded piano hinges. I added an additional 5/8" strip along the upper longerons to provide a place to drill through. I had to place an addtional 2" strip of glass along the inside edges of the aft deck to stiffen the area for bolting while still maintaining the overall light weight of the aft deck. I had taken some detail photos of assembly a year or two ago, but my daughter took pictures on top of the roll so I have some real strange double exposures of my daughter and here boyfriend on the Oregon coast, or inside the back of a KR. :) -- Regards Ross Ron Lee wrote: > >brian whatcott wrote: > > > >> I can almost see this project shaking out its feathers and flying away. > >> THEN who's gonna run the list? > > Great looking plane Ross. Just needs more blue! > > I did not find a place in your web site that explain the attachment method > for the turtledeck. I am also curious whether it is structural, and if so, > what did you do to accommodate that. > > Ron ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V2 #29 ****************************