From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Sunday, March 15, 1998 8:57 AM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #54 krnet-l-digest Sunday, March 15 1998 Volume 02 : Number 054 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 23:13:12 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Re: KR-net support, used to be Traveling Panel Planner... Marvin, Cool KR Calender idea. We had this idea for our local EAA chapter and decided that maybe a June-June calender would be more fun than the boring January-January kind. Hmmm... MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > BSHADR wrote: > > > but I > > got to tell ya - I took enough flack off line on this donation issue to keep > > me silent for a long, long time to come when it comes to KRNet support. > > Apparently my interest to build KRNet to a point of self sufficiency doesn’t > > sit well with some. Heaven help us if Ross gets fed up and bails…I’ll bet his > > sys admin job is not one most of us would/could do. > > > > Randy (FKA Whinester) Stein > ------------------------- > > Randy: > I can put up with your whine. Some one must do it. > One idea to make $$ for KR-Net may be to publish a calendar and sell it > at the next gathering. There are enough good pictures of KRs around > that we should be able to put together a good KR Kalendar. I know I > would buy a couple of them. I don't know what it would cost to do, but > if we can print T-shirts we should be able to figure out how to make a > calendar with a dozen good pictures of KRs. Just a thought. > > Marvin McCoy > Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > mr.marvin@worldnet.att.net > ------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 23:23:06 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: calendar idea Steve, What I'm thinking is that we can have a selection of KRNET goodies which people would buy via the website, that would over the long haul cover the costs of maintaining the site. I was thinking of checking with Kinkos, but doing all the production work on the PC, as the photos and Calender can be created via software. Then Kinkos (or equivilent) can crank out 20 copies at a time for me and I can mail them to whomever wants. However, your proposal will result in a much better quality product, so I'm game. One of the ideas I had was to try and get a photo of Jeanette at RR for the calender, and offer them to her as well at say $x over cost the proceeds going to cover KRNET. -- Regards Ross Horn2004 wrote: > I guess it’s time to roll up my sleeves a little and pitch in. > > I’m a graphic designer/art director who owns and operates a small design > studio in Dallas, TX. If we get enough interest in the calendar idea, I’d be > willing to layout the calendar and handle the production supervision end as > well (pre-press and printing). I would not be interested in trying to hunt > down photography, though. If this were supplied (preferably in color > transparency form) I could take it from there. To make it interesting, I'd > like to have a fairly comprehensive description from the owner/builder of each > aircraft, including notable modifications, etc. to go along with the image for > each month. > > There are a couple things to consider first. > 1. Are you/we thinking of a 4-color job with color photos, or black and white > photos? If we went with B&W photos (cost effective for short runs re: > printing), do you think people would want to spend the bucks on that? > 2. What sort of quantities are we talking about here? > 3. If this is intended to generate revenue for the KRNet, would the cost of > the calendar be wrapped into the yearly "dues"? If so, we might have to re- > think this a little. My point is, if we are having difficulty getting $10 out > of the subscribers now, do you think they would be willing to cough-up $20 for > dues + calendar, just to have the calendar? Short run calendars tend to have a > high unit cost, although there are some decent short run 4-color technologies > which may make this feasible. I could find out roughly what it would cost if > we can pin down quantity and colors. > > Let me know if you'd like my help. I could use a little break from all these > corporate clients and their stress-generating deadlines. > > Steve Horn > Dallas, TX > Horn2004@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 23:26:46 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: calendar idea How about split photos for each month. A builders stick project on the bench, then the other half the completed plane. One or two of those would be nice. - -- Ross MikeT nyc wrote: > I wasn't too hot on T-Shirts, etc., but I'd love to have calendars. I could > put one in my office so fellow-workers would have proof I'm not the only one > who's ever wanted to build one of these. > > Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 23:31:39 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: epoxy Dennis, I bought lots and lots of DOW DER330 epoxy. Then one year, I got a note from Wicks to place my order before such and such a date, as they were doing inventory or somthing late in December. It's cold, December, I'm heating the garage, and Wicks ships me Aeropoxy by mistake. Darn. So, I did my tail, rudder, and wing stubs with DOW DER 330, and the Right wing with DOW DER, but the left wing, and top deck stuff I did with Aeropoxy. Aeropoxy is a bit more $$$ but I found it is less viscous than the DOW DER so it flows into the cloth a bit better. For Kevlar, it's the cat's meow! At any rate, I used a lot of DOW DER epoxy. It will crystalize when it gets cold, so warm it up and don't use until you get the crystals disolved again. - -- Regards Ross KenikaS wrote: > I was wondering if anyone has experience using either the Dow DER 330 epoxy > sold by Wicks, or the epoxy RR sells. Does anyone know what type the RR epoxy > is? I haven't seen anyone else selling an equal mix structural epoxy. > I'm getting to the point of foam and glass and would appreciate any info you > all can give on working with, advantages, and/or drawbacks of any of the > available epoxies that can be used on the KR-2. > Thanks, > Dennis Steed > Salt Lake City, UT ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 23:33:14 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: KR T-shirts (no archive) Mike, Well, we want to do some T-shirts, but haven't got a design worked up yet. Perhaps if we have a surplus of funds this year I can get some made up. There was more interest in Polo shirts. What about NOMEX KR-2 flying suits. We could all show up at KRKOSH looking like the KR version of the Blue Angels. - -- Ross Mike Sharkey wrote: > owner-krnet-l@teleport.com writes: > >if we can print T-shirts we should be able to figure out how to make a > >calendar with a dozen good pictures of KRs. Just a thought. > > There are KR T-shirts? Count me in for a couple. Who do I send my $$ to? > > Mike Sharkey > X11 Development > SoftArc Inc. > http://www.softarc.com/~msharkey ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 02:36:57 EST From: MikeT nyc Subject: Re: KR: Progress >>Have you hotwired your wing cores yet? I am very interrested in your >>trials and tribulations. Hope you go through less foam than I did on the >>wind tunnel model cores. >>>. > >Not yet but man are we getting close! I have a couple of EZ and Dragonfly >builders helping out with the cores plus I have done a bit myself. I hope >I don't end up with three sets! :o) I must say I'm really impressed with the progress that some of you guys make. For the past 1 1/2 weeks, I've been designing and building a rather complicated set of Deco bookshelves for my apartment, and after coming home from work and putting in a few hours on this, I barely have time to download my e-mail let alone spend time on it. I'm amazed that some people here seem to be working that long or more on a KR every day and still have time for this list, web pages, etc. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 00:01:04 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Experimental Flight Test Plan Rick, I thought your test plan was terrific. I have just had enough time to glance at it. The idea of equiping the cockpit with a camera I thought was good. Other than this, I need to sit down and go over it again. Which I plan to do as I work towards getting some taildragger time. I need to download your latest copy, as I had your working copy which had all the change history information, which was distracting, and made it difficult to keep a handle on the flow of information. I know you've fixed this, I just haven't had time to follow up. Too busy wiring. -- Regards Ross EagleGator wrote: > Greetings! > > I'm writing to you because you requested information about my web page or > expressed interest in the experimental aircraft test plan I'm working on. > After literally hundreds of hits on my web page, I have not received many > comments on my plan, good, bad, or indifferent. > > Please take a moment and tell me if the draft was useful to you, and send any > comments you might have. If it was a waste of your time, please tell me that, > also. Without your feedback, the plan will not continue to improve. > > Thanks for your time, and continued success with your project! > > Cheers, > Rick Junkin > EagleGator@aol.com > http://members.aol.com/eaglegator ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 00:04:09 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Prop Torque Dave, I'm thinking that 12 pounds is about right. I think I picked this up from Tony Bengelis books. I also saw the other passage in an Aircraft Construction & Repair book regarding 14-24 pounds, but thought that I would stay on the light side. - -- Regards David Stuart wrote: > Brian' > > No I didn't MISREMEMBER as you put it. > Ten pounds plus two pounds for pins. > Thats the way I was tought and thats the way I have done it for the last > twenty six years. > You are quoting fifteen to twenty four pounds. No obvious damage will be > done at twenty four pounds except for the thousands of little air pockets > you have probably destroyed in the crushing process. > ABSOLUTELY NO WAY should you tighten to twenty four on a wooden prop.But > then I have only been fitting props for twenty six years so will have to > bow to your obviously more extensive experiance. > Regards.............Dave > David.Stuart@xtra.co.nz ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 00:09:54 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Model A carb Also, if one searches through the KRNET digest archives (say the first six months) one member posted a source for the Model A carb including part number. There was quite a good thread on this. Sorry, I don't know which one. Perhaps someone can point KRNETTERS to the particular digest version. Unfortunatly, there is a small gap in the digests when KRNET was short of disk space, and your humble admin, *DELETED* some of them to save $$$. If you notice the gap... thats what it is all about. For those interested in getting a list of digests, send an email to mailto:majordomo@teleport.com with the body text: index KRNET-L end And you will get an email containing all the digests available. To get one mailed to you, send another email to mailto:majordomo@teleport.com with the body text get KRNET-L vxx.nyy end where xx and yy are the volume and issue you want mailed to you. There is no limit... except to your patience to grab them. Also John Bouyea has the digests available on a website for download. (Sorry your admin hasn't indexed this site yet..) - -- Regards Ross Ed Janssen wrote: > To those of you who have been asking about Model A Ford carbs: You might > try the following address for starters: > > http://www.modelatrader.com/ > > I have a Model A carb (it was a gift) on my 1700cc Vdub and really works > great at all rpms! No problems with it so far. I replaced a POSA carb > with it and have about 50 hours on it so far. > > Ed Janssen > Kr-1 N8029J ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 00:14:08 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Prop X@$X#@ I went with castillated nuts and cotter pins, if you like nylon, get nylon castillated nuts, and put some cotter pins in thar. - -- Ross (Inexperienced, but learns from his mistakes) Ed Janssen wrote: > I called Ed & > >Steve today and he said to torque his hard maple prop to between 10 and 12 > >foot poundsm(up to 14 foot pounds, but it would serve any real purpose) using > >nylon nuts and 5/16 bolts. > > Nylon? Boy, I think I would stick with metal nuts! :o) > > Ed J. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 00:27:26 -0800 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: N541RY Progress Report Did I mention that having electricty at the hanger is Cool! In the last 30 days, I have accomplished the following: 1) Finished the panel (VSI was the last baby to install) (Ok, the compass remains, but it goes on TOP of the panel so it doesn't count). 2) Plumed Pitot and Static Lines. 3) Completed Wiring for panel and instruments etc. 4) Discovered 12V battery is dead, and charger is toast. Bought a new battery charger. 5) Put properly aged brake fluid into brake lines. Tested brakes. They make the weels stop moving if you push on the pedals, I played with this for a while, then decided to bleed the brakes. Fun to discover the brakes I installed 7 years ago actually work. 6) Pulled the valve covers off and checked the valve clearance. 7) Checked the removable forward deck fit, with all the wiring done. Have some minor trimming to do. 8) Found that my wings need trimming. (This is what happens when you glass the ends of the wing stubs, without checking clearance with the wings). Now that fuselage and wings live together at the hanger I can find these things out. Good thing I have 30 days of sanding scheduled for the wings, I won't even notice the additional glass work required for this fix. 9) Moved the exhaust manifold around using a torch. Managed not to burn any expensive stuff in the engine compartment. Having FUN again! -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 10:50:42 +0100 From: Michele Bucceri Subject: KR: fuselage diagonal glueing KRNetHeads, I'm working on my mock-up fuselage side framing, while waiting for spruce, and I have two very simple question. After glueing all the verticals, and after preparing all my well-cutted diagonal, it's time to glue them. I put glue at their end, I slide them into position but almost all of the glue remain out of the joint: the verticals scrape the glue off. May be it isn't a big trouble because of gussets and plywood, but if I want the glue squeeze out of the joint, I need to apply a very big pressure on it, sometimes crunching the wood (bad !!!). Second question: I'm using a band-saw to cut my wood and my cuts became burnt. I'm not using an aircraft grade wood, but construction wood (and it's plenty of resin). Is it a problem with my band-saw, or it depends on wood I'm using ? Does it happen also with spruce, and if yes, does I need to scrape out the burnt wood ? Ciao, Michele MBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMB Michele Bucceri E-mail: mailto:michele.bucceri@italtel.it MBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMBMB ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 07:30:37 -0500 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: KR: Re: More Progress Better double check the 0-ring material (viton, buna, epdm, etc) or just give them a good soak in the fluid you are going to use and look for degredation. AARP (the Association for the Advancement of Richard Parker) - -----Original Message----- From: Micheal Mims To: krnet-l@teleport.com Date: Thursday, March 12, 1998 1:49 AM Subject: KR: More Progress >Well I called around to find the FAA PMA approved O-ring for my Piper struts >and found them for $12.95 each! Plus a gallon of aviation hyd. fluid was >$13.00. Well I stopped by our local auto parts store and asked the guy to >find me an O-ring like this one (I had the bad one in hand). He said "sure" >and disappeared to the back of the building. Came back in about 2 minutes >and showed me and exact match! I said I will take it! I had to buy 4 >because they come in a four pack. I asked what they were for and he said a >GM automatic tranny, so I grabbed a qt. or Delco tranny fluid and headed for >the hanger. I rebuilt both struts and filled them with fluid for,...are >you ready for this? $4.55!! Aint homebuilts cool!!?? >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims >Proud Member of the Area 51 BBA > >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net >http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims >mirror site at : >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >Fax 714.856.9417 > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 07:35:02 -0500 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: KR: Re: fuselage diagonal glueing >Second question: I'm using a band-saw to cut my wood and my cuts became >burnt. I'm not using an aircraft grade wood, but construction wood (and >it's plenty of resin). Is it a problem with my band-saw, or it depends >on wood I'm using ? Does it happen also with spruce, and if yes, does I >need to scrape out the burnt wood ? > > >Ciao, >Michele Start over. your band saw is going to fast or too dull. The blade is polishing the grain and will prevent a good amount of glue from being absorbed. If your saw doesnt have a speed control you should investigate different types of blades. AARP (the Association for the Advancement of Richard Parker) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 07:34:53 EST From: KR2 616TJ Subject: Re: KR: Prop X@$X#@ In a message dated 98-03-13 03:13:49 EST, you write: << I went with castillated nuts and cotter pins, if you like nylon, get nylon castillated nuts, and put some cotter pins in thar. -- Ross (Inexperienced, but learns from his mistakes) > I called Ed & > >Steve today and he said to torque his hard maple prop to between 10 and 12 > >foot poundsm using > >nylon nuts and 5/16 bolts. > > Nylon? Boy, I think I would stick with metal nuts! :o) > > Ed J. >> Ross, I too liked the idea of using castillated nuts and pins. What Ed Sterba said was he recommended elastic stop nuts was due to the fact that a wood prop expands and contracts due to temperature and humitity changes. With this in mind, he said he found people were more apt to check the torque rather than resting on the assumption that if a pin was in there, everything was fine. The self-locking castle nuts may be the trick to keep a proper torque and provide a level of assurance, it'd make me feel better.....and that's what counts. Basic statement......check your torque you don't want something happenig to that big fan out front. Welcome back Ross. (I did the same thing on my wing stubs and thought I was the only one to pull something like that, boy it makes you feel like a D.A. doesn't it :-)). Dana Overall Richmond, KY kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 06:49:33 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: KR: Brake fluid - a vintage year? At 00:27 3/13/98 -0800, you wrote: > 5) Put properly aged brake fluid into brake lines.... > -- Regards > Ross > I'm tickled by this move. For some reason, I never heard about doing this before. Is it to equalize the moisture, the dissolved air or the temperature...or what? Regards Brian ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 06:58:06 -0600 From: Ed Janssen Subject: KR: 2180 Vdub overhaul Netters might want to check out this site for some nice pictures of a 2180 VW overhaul done on a Sonerai IIL. http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/1071/vwengine.htm Ed Janssen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 08:35:48 -0800 From: "Bruce S. Campbell" Subject: Re: KR: Brake fluid - a vintage year? brian whatcott wrote: > > At 00:27 3/13/98 -0800, you wrote: > > > 5) Put properly aged brake fluid into brake lines.... > > -- Regards > > Ross > > > I'm tickled by this move. For some reason, I never heard about doing > this before. Is it to equalize the moisture, the dissolved air or the > temperature...or what? > > Regards > Brian Brian, It has to do with the esters--and preparation for a lightning bolt to give it life. :) Bruce ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 08:39:31 -0500 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: fuselage diagonal glueing Michele Bucceri wrote: > May be it isn't a big trouble because of gussets and plywood, but if I > want the glue squeeze out of the joint, I need to apply a very big > pressure on it, sometimes crunching the wood (bad !!!). This may be a cause for concern. If you are using T88 or similar, you get a stronger joint with minimal to moderate pressure. Some glues require high pressure and a perfect fit to work correctly. T88 is not one of them > Second question: I'm using a band-saw to cut my wood and my cuts became > burnt. I'm not using an aircraft grade wood, but construction wood (and > it's plenty of resin). Get a new blade, and/or adjust the blade speed. It should never burn. In some of the older wood reference books, they say to never sand a joint prior to gluing since the grain will be sealed with the dust and burnishing of the wood, but scraping is OK, just not recommended. - -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 08:48:54 -0500 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: First Kr-1 Plans darrin wrote: > > Does anyone know the year the first set of kr-1 plans were offered? > I think I may have one of the first construction books printed. > > Darrin West > Thomasville,Ga > kr-1 The first time a KR was written about in Sport Aviation was in January, 1973. This makes me believe that plans would have been offered for sale at about that time. BTW, EAA now has a nice set of Members Only services on their website, one of which is a searchable index of all the magazines. My dad has all Sport Aviation back to 1957 and when he gets back from Florida, I will try and scan all of the KR related articles onto my website (with proper copyright credit). The searchable index will make this much easier. - -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 08:04:12 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: Re: KR: First Kr-1 Plans Don, Could you include the Roncz articles as well? Steve Eberhart On Fri, 13 Mar 1998, Donald Reid wrote: > darrin wrote: > > > > Does anyone know the year the first set of kr-1 plans were offered? > > I think I may have one of the first construction books printed. > > > > Darrin West > > Thomasville,Ga > > kr-1 > > The first time a KR was written about in Sport Aviation was in January, > 1973. This makes me believe that plans would have been offered for sale > at about that time. > > BTW, EAA now has a nice set of Members Only services on their website, > one of which is a searchable index of all the magazines. My dad has all > Sport Aviation back to 1957 and when he gets back from Florida, I will > try and scan all of the KR related articles onto my website (with > proper copyright credit). The searchable index will make this much > easier. > > -- > Don Reid > Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com > KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm > Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 09:12:20 -0500 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: Re: KR: fuselage diagonal glueing > Get a new blade, and/or adjust the blade speed. It should never burn. > In some of the older wood reference books, they say to never sand a > joint prior to gluing since the grain will be sealed with the dust and > burnishing of the wood, but scraping is OK, just not recommended. a soft wire brush (brass) will probably open up the grain. A hard wire brush may damage the fibers deeper than you want to go. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 07:41:06 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Re: More Progress At 07:30 AM 3/13/98 -0500, you wrote: > >Better double check the 0-ring material (viton, buna, epdm, etc) or just >give them a good soak in the fluid you are going to use and look for >degredation. > Well since they are from a Delco Automatic tranny I would hope Delco Automatic Tranny fluid would be OK. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Proud Member of the Area 51 BBA mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims mirror site at : http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Fax 714.856.9417 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:06:02 -0800 From: darrin Subject: Re: KR: First Kr-1 Plans My book is dated 1972. I purchased a project which looks like is one of the first kr-1's started...WOW! A model A kr! I hope it flies when I finish it. Darrin West Thomasville, Ga. KR-1 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 11:53:25 +1300 From: "David Stuart" Subject: KR: Wing Patch....Thanks Appreciate all the replys for doing the repair. After gluing in new foam blocks I sanded them back to the same profile as the neighbouring foam and as you guys suggested layed up the first patch to overlap by one inch then a second over lapping by two full inches. Only put two on not three and am now wondering if that was the correct thing to do. Will fill and fair and see how it looks. Thanks for the advice. Dave........ David.Stuart@xtra.co.nz ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 11:38:25 +1300 From: "David Stuart" Subject: KR: Brake fluid I stand to be corrected on this one but if I remember rightly aviation type brake fluid may not be compatible with standard auto type brake fluid. I write this so you might fit a notice to your filler cap or similar so that in two years time when you bleed and top the system you will have the memory trigger there in front of you. Dave......... David.Stuart@xtra.co.nz ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 17:06:41 -0600 From: Ed Janssen Subject: KR: T88 Glue Netters, Good discussion on T-88 glue in the March, '98 issue of EAA's "Experimenter" magazine - experiences, use, cure properties, tests on bonding different materials, etc. Ed Janssen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 20:39:44 -0500 From: Tom Andersen Subject: Re: KR: Giving away money!!! Ross, You'll be receiving a check for $10 in a few days toward KRNET costs. - -Tom ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 20:40:51 EST From: HAshraf Subject: KR: O-Ring and transmission fluid The O-rings should be OK if they were are used with the same transmission fluid they were designed for. Haris Ashraf KR2S 0% complete Still waiting for plans from RR. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 19:18:37 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Giving away money!!! (no archive) At 08:39 PM 3/13/98 -0500, you wrote: >Ross, >You'll be receiving a check for $10 in a few days toward KRNET costs. >-Tom Thanks for the address Ross. Since I don my psychic hat and see a large whine in the future, I will send $20. (Just wondering whether to make it US dollars or pesos). I addressed the envelope last night but have not looked for the checkbook yet. How is that for an excuse??? Ron "Tightwad" Lee ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 19:20:16 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Giving away money!!! At 08:39 PM 3/13/98 -0500, you wrote: >Ross, >You'll be receiving a check for $10 in a few days toward KRNET costs. >-Tom Sorry about that last post Tom. I did not mean to do a one-upman thingie to you. I consider $10 to be in arrears (that means past due for you California guys) Ron ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 01:53:55 EST From: MikeT nyc Subject: Re: KR: Model A carb In a message dated 98-03-11 09:57:45 EST, you write: >Subj: KR: Model A carb >Date: 98-03-11 09:57:45 EST >From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) >Sender: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com >Reply-to: krnet-l@teleport.com >To: krnet-l@teleport.com > >To those of you who have been asking about Model A Ford carbs: You might >try the following address for starters: > >http://www.modelatrader.com/ > >I have a Model A carb (it was a gift) on my 1700cc Vdub and really works >great at all rpms! No problems with it so far. I replaced a POSA carb >with it and have about 50 hours on it so far. > >Ed Janssen >Kr-1 N8029J A fellow-biker who's into antique cars told me these carbs are often replaced with something more modern by serious Model A owners, and he may be able to find some very cheap. I noticed from the Great Plains catalog that they see different types of these for the 1600 and the bigger engines. Do you know how these differ, and what you get when you get one off a Model A? Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 08:32:36 -0500 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: First Kr-1 Plans Steven A Eberhart wrote: > > Don, > > Could you include the Roncz articles as well? > > Steve Eberhart > > On Fri, 13 Mar 1998, Donald Reid wrote: > > try and scan all of the KR related articles onto my website (with > > proper copyright credit). The searchable index will make this much > > easier. I have a well-used copy of those articles and yes, they are very good. I don't think my copy would scan very well and I need the originals. I believe that you might be able to find those at some other web sites. I have seen the Roncz spreadsheets on other sites, the articles may be there as well. - -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 07:37:05 -0600 From: Ed Janssen Subject: Re: KR: Model A carb Mike, Boy, sorry but I don't. I really haven't had the chance to compare the original with the replacement carb. The carb I have, which I always thought was an original, has a long (couple inches?,) pencil shaped brass fuel mixture control which, if memory serves me correctly, hooked up to a rod running up to a lever on the side of the steering column in the "cockpit" of the car, accompanying a spark advance lever in the same location. I intended to attach some sort of gadget to allow me to operate this mixture control from the cockpit of my KR-1, but for now I just have it safety-tied in its present position. The engine seems to run fine right now and I guess I don't see much need to change the mixture - I do very little serious cross country flying or high altitude stuff. I would think there would be a Model A buff or two, even in NY, :o) who would leap at the chance to set the record straight. Ed Janssen At 01:53 AM 3/14/98 EST, you wrote: >In a message dated 98-03-11 09:57:45 EST, you write: > >>Subj: KR: Model A carb >>Date: 98-03-11 09:57:45 EST >>From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) >>Sender: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com >>Reply-to: krnet-l@teleport.com >>To: krnet-l@teleport.com >> >>To those of you who have been asking about Model A Ford carbs: You might >>try the following address for starters: >> >>http://www.modelatrader.com/ >> >>I have a Model A carb (it was a gift) on my 1700cc Vdub and really works >>great at all rpms! No problems with it so far. I replaced a POSA carb >>with it and have about 50 hours on it so far. >> >>Ed Janssen >>Kr-1 N8029J > >A fellow-biker who's into antique cars told me these carbs are often replaced >with something more modern by serious Model A owners, and he may be able to >find some very cheap. I noticed from the Great Plains catalog that they see >different types of these for the 1600 and the bigger engines. Do you know how >these differ, and what you get when you get one off a Model A? > >Mike Taglieri > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 09:49:31 -0500 From: Tom Andersen Subject: Re: KR: Giving away money!!! Ron Lee wrote: > > At 08:39 PM 3/13/98 -0500, you wrote: > >Ross, > >You'll be receiving a check for $10 in a few days toward KRNET costs. > >-Tom > > Sorry about that last post Tom. I did not mean to do a one-upman > thingie to you. I consider $10 to be in arrears (that means past > due for you California guys) > > Ron Ron, I didn't even see it like that, but maybe a little one-upmanship could benefit us all in this instance. Anybody want to go for $30? Where are the REAL men out there? - -Tom ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 09:05:00 -0700 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Giving away money!!! (No archive) I finally found my checkbook and Ross' address. The check is in the mailbox awaiting pickup. The KRNET....and the other web pages that folks devote time to...are GREAT resources. Sure would hate to see it go away due to lack of support. Yes Ross...you are doing a great job. I don't want to get mushy but I appreciate your efforts (Then I let out a manly man grunt...how about those Broncos....grunt grunt grunt). Ron Lee >> >Ross, >> >You'll be receiving a check for $10 in a few days toward KRNET costs. >> >-Tom >> >> Sorry about that last post Tom. I did not mean to do a one-upman >> thingie to you. I consider $10 to be in arrears (that means past >> due for you California guys) >> >> Ron > >Ron, >I didn't even see it like that, but maybe a little one-upmanship could >benefit us all in this instance. Anybody want to go for $30? Where are >the REAL men out there? >-Tom > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 14:30:34 EST From: DC4FREE Subject: Re: KR: KR CD ROM Oscar, I too would be interested in purchasing a copy of the CD ROM version of the old newsletters. Thanks Don Wright 11904 Meridian Ave. So. Everett, WA 98208 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 19:37:39 -0500 From: "Mark Seastrand" Subject: KR: paint high temp Excuse me guys, This isn't about the Kr but I could sure use some helpful info if anybody has any. I'm looking for a high temp, 270 F continous, 380 F intermittant, flat black paint that can be silk screened onto a smooth glass surface and won't come off under normal aircraft usage, abrasion etc. or under the RTCA/DO 160C, aircraft enviromental testing procedures. I have some caution and advisiory indicators and when they are on, the box does heat up to those temperatures and the legends wipe right off. After awhile all you have is green or yellow lights coming on and now you don't know what they mean. There are way to many to memorize. Thanks in advance Mark S ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 20:40:42 EST From: EagleGator Subject: KR: Test Plan/Alternate Email Address Oscar wrote: >Sorry, Netters; EagleGator's ISP won't let me e-mail him direct, so I'm >posting this to KRNet so he can see it > >>Hello, Rick >> >>This is in response to your post on KRNet about review of the Flight >>Test Plan. >> >>I have downloaded your Flight Test Plan and will read through it as >>time allows; excellent piece of work. As mentioned on the Net, I would like >>to include this on the Traveling Resource Library CD-ROM, with your >>permission. Please let me know about this. Absolutely, Oscar, have at it! Sorry about the email access, my AOL acount gets bombarded with junk mail from the free email providers, so I have them blocked. If you want to send private email to me, you can use "richard.m.junkin@boeing.com", that will get to me at work. Regarding the test plan, since it is a draft, I would request that you keep it in it's original complete form, including my contact info so that folks can reach me if they have any questions/suggestions. It also has the info in there on how to get the most up to date revision from the web page. I only get the KRnet digest right now, sorry if this is a little late! Cheers, Rick Junkin EagleGator@aol.com richard.m.junkin@boeing.com St. Charles MO ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 21:52:14 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: KR: WAFs, Grain Direction and torque values. After pondering the importance of grain direction in allowable torque values for props, I remembered seeing the question, "Which orientation is better for the spar cap grain, vertical or horizontal?" I recalled that there is a design rule that joining wood pieces whose grain is at right angles reduces the allowable forces to one third their normal value, so, in the KR where the ply grain of the shear web is vertical, people often prefer the cap grain to be vertical too. So far, so good. But now, you consider the through bolts in the WAFs. Here the maximum allowable torque is conditioned on the grain orientation too. If the cap grain is vertical, the horizontal bolts are across grain, so the crushing strength is much lower than if the cap grain had been horizontal. I seem to recall Don reminding someone that the shear bolts in the WAFs are not meant to gain strength from friction forces. So here's another idea along the same lines: you have to be EXTRA careful not to overtorque horizontal bolts through vertical grain - but horizontal grain caps can take MUCH more bearing pressure like six or seven times more... Regards Brian ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 07:09:23, -0500 From: YCGB97A@prodigy.com (MR JEAN R VERON) Subject: KR: calendar idea Mark Unless something comes up the Ercoupe is a go for Perrykosh air to air photos. Jean N4DD Broken Arrow, OK ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 11:57:44 -0500 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: KR: Sun and Fun This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD5009.904DFDC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is anyone maintaining a list of KR-Netters who are going to Sun and Fun = and where they are all staying?=20 If not I'll volunteer.=20 AARP=20 (the Association for the Advancement of Richard Parker) - ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD5009.904DFDC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is anyone maintaining a list of = KR-Netters who=20 are going to Sun and Fun  and where they are all staying? =
 
If not I'll volunteer.
 
AARP
(the Association for the = Advancement of=20 Richard Parker)
 

 
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