From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 7:36 PM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #76 krnet-l-digest Wednesday, May 6 1998 Volume 02 : Number 076 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 19:32:41 From: Austin Clark Subject: Re: KR: Elevator Cable Routing KR2S At 17:43 5/3/98 -0700, you wrote: >At 11:08 AM 5/3/98, you wrote: >>Thanks for the feedback guys. I have built an aluminum bracket that mounts >vertical to the M cross pieces. This bracket will hold 4 guide pulleys; two >for the elevator cables and two for the rudder cables. >> >> >If M is the station just ahead of the one that you mount the horizontal and >vertical forward spars too, why couldn't you just cut out the top cross >member and move it forward or aft and re-glue it? Seems to me that would be >easier and much lighter than adding pulleys and brackets and more plywood. >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >Micheal Mims >SP290 Less than one Wing to go! >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >Irvine Ca >Fax 714.856.9417 >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > I guess there may be a hundred ways to skin this cat. You could also epoxy a doubler on the M cross piece and notch the original piece so the cable will clear. Austin Clark Pascagoula, MS itac@datasync.com http://www.datasync.com/~itac/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 19:48:31 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Time to Flip it!! Well net heads I am happy to report that I now have glass on top of both wings. Next weekend I will flip it over on its back and start glassing the bottom sides. This is one of those mile stones during the building process that gives you a sense of accomplishment, that's for sure. I pushed her out on the ramp and took a good look. I have an airframe (well almost)!! zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 22:51:40 -0400 (EDT) From: jeroffey@tir.com (jeroffey) Subject: KR: KR Giveaway KR folks, I had the pleasure of visiting Dave Batton in Redford MI today. Dave is faced with one of those "once in a lifetime" career decisions and will have to part with his project. His plane is wood complete and on conventional gear. All Rand Robinson premolded pieces are there including back turdle deck, canopy frame, canopy, forward deck with panel, upper and lower cowling halves. Deil gear and wing farings as well as all the Deil pieces and mount for a VW. No outer wings but the spars are done. All control cables are there and routed including a Rand control stick. Clevland wheels, brakes and master cylinders are mounted with new tires. Dave is ready to let his love of labor go for $2500. Any one who is toying with the notion of building one of these and has not started yet would do VERY well to contact Dave at ashadow@voyager.net I always hate to see some one have to give up somting they have worked really hard to accomplish, but Dave has had a decision to make and letting his KR go must have been gut wrenching. John Roffey jeroffey@tir.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 21:50:36 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: Re: KR Giveaway Hmmmmm, sounds like another plane that is about 40-45% complete. Ron Lee At 10:51 PM 5/3/98 -0400, you wrote: >KR folks, I had the pleasure of visiting Dave Batton in Redford MI today. >Dave is faced with one of those "once in a lifetime" career decisions and >will have to part with his project. His plane is wood complete and on >conventional gear. All Rand Robinson premolded pieces are there including >back turdle deck, canopy frame, canopy, forward deck with panel, upper and >lower cowling halves. Deil gear and wing farings as well as all the Deil >pieces and mount for a VW. No outer wings but the spars are done. All >control cables are there and routed including a Rand control stick. >Clevland wheels, brakes and master cylinders are mounted with new tires. > Dave is ready to let his love of labor go for $2500. >Any one who is toying with the notion of building one of these and has not >started yet would do VERY well to contact Dave at ashadow@voyager.net >I always hate to see some one have to give up somting they have worked >really hard to accomplish, but Dave has had a decision to make and letting >his KR go must have been gut wrenching. >John Roffey >jeroffey@tir.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 22:11:22 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Jeff Scott's KR, inflight photos Net heads, there are a few more photos of Jeff's KR at: http://a51.wetworks.org/mims/mike.html These are air to air shots zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 06:19:04 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Jeff Scott's KR, inflight photos I am sure they are great pics. I got to see his plane in person this weekend! Ron Lee At 10:11 PM 5/3/98 -0700, you wrote: >Net heads, there are a few more photos of Jeff's KR at: > >http://a51.wetworks.org/mims/mike.html > >These are air to air shots >Micheal Mims ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 07:34:00 -0500 From: sarce@tri-lakes.net Subject: [none] unsubscribe krnet-l ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 10:29:31 -0700 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: Removable forward deck Richard Parker wrote: > > >Cant count how many times I have had mine off. With hinges, it takes > >about 1 min. to pull the pins, and another min. to take the 4 screws out > >of the instrument panel. > >While you are at it, it is easy to make the fuel tank removable. I used > >2 pieces of 1" steel strap attatched to the firewall shelf with AL > >brackets. > > > >Tom Crawford > >tomc@afn.org > >Gainesville,FL > >N262TC > > > > a picture is worth a thousand words. ( ;-) hint hint) > > Rich Parker > Jaffrey, NH > theparkers@monad.net > http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm Rich, If you are really interested, I have some construction photos I could dig out. I dont have anywhere to "post" them, but I could mail them out to you to look at if you want. It is an easy installation, I used AL scraps and about $5.00 worth of steel strap. The key is to bolt the ends down, then somewhere in the middle, cut the strap and make an adjustable fitting that can be accesed when the front deck is off. I used a "T" bolt from AS&S (it's a AN, but I dont remember the number). The T is captured in the strap by drilling a hole near the end, sticking the bolt thru, the folding the strap back onto itself and riveting it in place. On the other end of the strap is a small piece of AL angle with a hole in one side for the bolt to pass thru, and a slot in the other side for the strap to pass thru and be folded back and riveted onto itself. There you have it, I have tried to create a picture with a thousand words. Seriously- if you want a picture, let me know. Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 10:46:37 -0700 From: Tom Crawford Subject: KR: Taming (timing) the Compufire Steve Bennet, I lost your E-mail address, but figured I could get you here. I took your advice and set the Compufire ignition timing so it has 27 deg. advance at 2500 RPM rather than trying to figure how much advance is in a 009 distributor and setting it at idle. Guess what- I gained 100 RPM and 15 MPH on the top end. I had it set with a little too much advance initially. Also lowered my cruise oil temp 15-20 deg. Now it sounds like an old tractor loping along at idle, but "feels" mucho better at high RPM's. Now maybe I'll take a closer look at the Mag's timing. #:) Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 10:34:30 -0500 From: "Thomas J. Towle" Subject: Re: KR: KR Giveaway jeroffey wrote: > > KR folks, I had the pleasure of visiting Dave Batton in Redford MI today. > Dave is faced with one of those "once in a lifetime" career decisions and > will have to part with his project. His plane is wood complete and on > conventional gear. All Rand Robinson premolded pieces are there including > back turdle deck, canopy frame, canopy, forward deck with panel, upper and > lower cowling halves. Deil gear and wing farings as well as all the Deil > pieces and mount for a VW. No outer wings but the spars are done. All > control cables are there and routed including a Rand control stick. > Clevland wheels, brakes and master cylinders are mounted with new tires. > Dave is ready to let his love of labor go for $2500. > Any one who is toying with the notion of building one of these and has not > started yet would do VERY well to contact Dave at ashadow@voyager.net > I always hate to see some one have to give up somting they have worked > really hard to accomplish, but Dave has had a decision to make and letting > his KR go must have been gut wrenching. > John Roffey > jeroffey@tir.com Just kidding, of course...hoping that the TURDLE deck doesn't reflect the workmanship! TJT ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 14:44:56 EDT From: KR2 616TJ Subject: Re: KR: Taming (timing) the Compufire In a message dated 98-05-04 10:34:38 EDT, you write: << Guess what- I gained 100 RPM and 15 MPH on the top end. >> Dang Tom, what is your top end now??? Besides having a great looking plane, now it's a haul as$ banchy. You may need that mach meter! Boy it looks like I'll have to make it back down to Gainesville:-)). Steve's email is gpasc@earthlink.net Good Flying Dana Overall Richmond, KY kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 12:35:46 -0700 From: "John F. Esch" Subject: Re: KR: Removable forward deck I would be interested on how this was done too John F Esch Salem, OR Tom Crawford wrote: > Richard Parker wrote: > > > > >Cant count how many times I have had mine off. With hinges, it > takes > > >about 1 min. to pull the pins, and another min. to take the 4 > screws out > > >of the instrument panel. > > >While you are at it, it is easy to make the fuel tank removable. I > used > > >2 pieces of 1" steel strap attatched to the firewall shelf with AL > > >brackets. > > > > > >Tom Crawford > > >tomc@afn.org > > >Gainesville,FL > > >N262TC > > > > > > > a picture is worth a thousand words. ( ;-) hint hint) > > > > Rich Parker > > Jaffrey, NH > > theparkers@monad.net > > http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm > > Rich, > > If you are really interested, I have some construction photos I could > dig out. I dont have anywhere to "post" them, but I could mail them > out > to you to look at if you want. It is an easy installation, I used AL > scraps and about $5.00 worth of steel strap. The key is to bolt the > ends > down, then somewhere in the middle, cut the strap and make an > adjustable > fitting that can be accesed when the front deck is off. I used a "T" > bolt from AS&S (it's a AN, but I dont remember the number). The T is > captured in the strap by drilling a hole near the end, sticking the > bolt > thru, the folding the strap back onto itself and riveting it in place. > > On the other end of the strap is a small piece of AL angle with a hole > > in one side for the bolt to pass thru, and a slot in the other side > for > the strap to pass thru and be folded back and riveted onto itself. > There you have it, I have tried to create a picture with a thousand > words. Seriously- if you want a picture, let me know. > > Tom Crawford > tomc@afn.org > Gainesville, FL > N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 18:14:11 -0400 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: Re: KR: Removable forward deck >>> Rich, >>> >>> If you are really interested, I have some construction photos I could >>> dig out. I dont have anywhere to "post" them, but I could mail them >>> out >>> to you to look at if you want. It is an easy installation, I used AL >>> scraps and about $5.00 worth of steel strap. The key is to bolt the >>> ends >>> down, then somewhere in the middle, cut the strap and make an >>> adjustable >>> fitting that can be accesed when the front deck is off. I used a "T" >>> bolt from AS&S (it's a AN, but I dont remember the number). The T is >>> captured in the strap by drilling a hole near the end, sticking the >>> bolt >>> thru, the folding the strap back onto itself and riveting it in place. >>> >>> On the other end of the strap is a small piece of AL angle with a hole >>> >>> in one side for the bolt to pass thru, and a slot in the other side >>> for >>> the strap to pass thru and be folded back and riveted onto itself. >>> There you have it, I have tried to create a picture with a thousand >>> words. Seriously- if you want a picture, let me know. >>> >>> Tom Crawford >>> tomc@afn.org >>> Gainesville, FL >>> N262TC I'll gladly scan, post and return them to you Rich Parker 9 Contoocook Ave Jaffrey, NH theparkers@monad.net http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm 800-525-2857 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 21:01:33 -0700 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: Taming (timing) the Compufire KR2 616TJ wrote: > > In a message dated 98-05-04 10:34:38 EDT, you write: > > << Guess what- I gained 100 RPM > and > 15 MPH on the top end. >> > > Dang Tom, what is your top end now??? Besides having a great looking plane, > now it's a haul as$ banchy. You may need that mach meter! Boy it looks like > I'll have to make it back down to Gainesville:-)). Steve's email is > gpasc@earthlink.net > > Good Flying > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY > kr2616tj@aol.com > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ Dana, Top end now at 3600 RPM is 185 MPH, but I think I can do better. Still have some "tweaking" to do, fairing, etc. Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, Fl N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 21:14:58, -0500 From: YCGB97A@prodigy.com (MR JEAN R VERON) Subject: KR: Re: Flight Test For those interested we flew Martin Roberts the other day and did some more testing. I held a protractor on the top of the upper longeron between the canopy bow and instrument pannel. At 145 mph it indicated 1 1/2 deg. nose down. At 175 mph it was 2 1/2 deg. nose down. This was done at 3000 msl. I wanted to do a 200 mph but the wind started gusting which made reading the protractor impossable. His plane has the original wing , incidence and washout. Hope this helps. Jean N4DD Broken Arrow,OK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 22:44:47 -0700 From: "Bruce S. Campbell" Subject: Re: KR: Taming (timing) the Compufire Tom Crawford wrote: > > Top end now at 3600 RPM is 185 MPH, but I think I can do better. Still > have some "tweaking" to do, fairing, etc. > > Tom Crawford > tomc@afn.org > Gainesville, Fl > N262TC Wow! It's amazing what big gains those little tweaks produce. Way to go Tom! Bruce S. Campbell Tampa, Florida ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 20:54:05 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Taming (timing) the Compufire Sounds like a new song is in order: Oh 200 mph here I come, here I come, here I come. Yes 200 mph here I come, all daaaaaaaaaaaaaay lonnnnnnnnnng. Ron "Can't carry a tune" Lee At 10:44 PM 5/4/98 -0700, you wrote: >Tom Crawford wrote: >> >> Top end now at 3600 RPM is 185 MPH, but I think I can do better. Still >> have some "tweaking" to do, fairing, etc. >> >> Tom Crawford > >Wow! It's amazing what big gains those little tweaks produce. Way to go >Tom! > >Bruce S. Campbell ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 21:34:40 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: another moving map Here is another moving map that includes the GPS receiver for $299 zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 01:52:30 EDT From: MikeT nyc Subject: KR: Re: Test - AOL test ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 06:09:46 -0400 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: KR: Re: another moving map Where? Rich Parker Jaffrey, NH >Here is another moving map that includes the GPS receiver for $299 >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >Micheal Mims >SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >Irvine Ca >Fax 714.856.9417 >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 14:49:09 -0300 From: Renato Leonardo Thiel Subject: KR: Unsubscription Please, Unsubscribe me from kn-net for a while... Thiel, renato_thiel@datasul.com.br ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:54:09 EDT From: DAN469 Subject: KR: transponder ant I'm going to have to install a transponder as I am in the Twin Cities and will want to fly out of the local airports. I'm wondering what others have done about the ant. and its installation. Any suggestions will be helpful. Thanks, Dan Shervheim ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:07:11 -0600 From: "gary" Subject: KR: RE: transponder ant > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com [mailto:owner-krnet-l@teleport.com]On > Behalf Of DAN469 > Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 7:54 PM > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: transponder ant > > > I'm going to have to install a transponder as I am in the Twin > Cities and will > want > to fly out of the local airports. I'm wondering what others have > done about > the ant. and its installation. Any suggestions will be helpful. > > Thanks, > Dan Shervheim > Dan on mine I mounted it inside the fuselage towards the rear and also had a about 2x2ft piece of thin alum. mounted above floor behind luggage pouch for a ground plane. Get a radio amateur buddy to give you some assistance if possible . ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:14:50 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: transponder ant Although I don't have the transponder yet, my transponder antenna is located inside the fuselage just forward of the tail. It is mounted to a round aluminum disk for a ground plane and is pointed down. The disk is mounted to a single cross brace glued into the aft fuselage. I put it in the tail because I didn't like the idea of a broadcasting high frequency antenna just under my seat. Of course mine won't be broadcasting until I save a few dinero towards buying a new unit. :o) This weekend I flew up and down the front range of the Rockies through Colorado. Without a transponder, it was a major pain. The GPS was a life saver as I could easily skirt the mode C airspace around Denver, the restricted airspace around the Air Force Academy, the Class C around Colorado Springs, and other restricted airspace in that area. - ------- Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://home.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm On Tue, 5 May 1998 21:54:09 EDT DAN469 writes: >I'm going to have to install a transponder as I am in the Twin Cities >and will >want >to fly out of the local airports. I'm wondering what others have done >about >the ant. and its installation. Any suggestions will be helpful. > >Thanks, >Dan Shervheim > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 05:53:12 PDT From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: CD-ROM Archive Progress-;o( Hello, Netters Just to update all who are waiting for the KRNet and Newsletter archives on CD-ROM: all info has been scanned and received here at CD-ROM central. All the materials are on hand; blank CDs, mailers, mailing list complete, Adobe Acrobat ready, indexing outlined. Kerry has Dana's originals ready to send back to him as soon as I verify that the scanned stuff will PDF alright. Problem now is time. Operator (me) massively buried in work for a while (two hospitals in our community are dueling to see which can construct a new cancer treatment facility before the other, and we are engineers for both of them!)- meaning lots of long days and nights chained to the desk, and lots of phone calls bugging me for plans and specs. So- it may be a while. Maybe by Arlington? Thanks to Kerry and Curtis for the scanning and zipping. And just to let you know- Kerry actually had his wife's OK to go for Ed's KR-1 that's for sale. Using prudence and restraint, he held back and will continue with his own building project. I offered to go halfsies with him on the KR-1, but he'd have to let me hangar the -1 here in Oregon (Kerry's in Texas) ;o) Also- Paul Martin's trigear conversion is coming right along. He wants to fly it to OSH this year...! I offered to help him fly off his 40 when he gets it in the air. Aren't I a nice guy? Regards Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 10:09:48 -0800 From: Bruce Toscano Subject: KR: Arlington Fly-in A few weeks ago there were several messages about the NW Arlington fly-in (July 8-12) and then that thread was dropped in favor of blah-blah, spark plugs, and more blah blah (sorry for the tude). Is anyone coming to Arlington this year? Primarily July 11 or 12 - the weekend - in their KR? (Not bringing pictures of it . . . I mean flying it here?) How about a KR2S? I'd hate to spend my time taking pictures of Lanceairs and RV's!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 15:21:31 -0400 From: "Thomas Gatliff" Subject: KR: UNSubscribe Please UnSubscribe me for a while... Thanks gatliff@mindspring.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:02:44 -0600 From: Lester Newman Subject: KR: kr unsubscribe Please unsubscribe me foe a while... Thanks ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 18:30:21, -0500 From: YCGB97A@prodigy.com (MR JEAN R VERON) Subject: KR: KR-2 Accident From AP A KR-2 crashed shortly after takeoff Wednesday May 6th in Warsaw Poland. The wreckage was found in the Warsaw cemetary. Three hundred bodies have been recovered and that number is expected to climb as digging goes thru the night. Jean N4DD ;-) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 17:03:38 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Arlington Fly-in Arlington......Texas? Georgia? New York? Sorry for being stupid. Ron Lee At 10:09 AM 5/6/98 -0800, you wrote: >A few weeks ago there were several messages about the NW Arlington >fly-in (July 8-12) and then that thread was dropped in favor of >blah-blah, spark plugs, and more blah blah (sorry for the tude). > >Is anyone coming to Arlington this year? Primarily July 11 or 12 - the >weekend - in their KR? (Not bringing pictures of it . . . I mean flying >it here?) > >How about a KR2S? > >I'd hate to spend my time taking pictures of Lanceairs and RV's!! > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 16:56:57 -0700 From: "John F. Esch" Subject: Re: KR: Arlington Fly-in not this year for me again. Drill Weekend. RATS! John F. (Have new pics of fuselage) Esch Salem, OR http://www.cyberis.net/~sesch/kr.htm Bruce Toscano wrote: > A few weeks ago there were several messages about the NW Arlington > fly-in (July 8-12) and then that thread was dropped in favor of > blah-blah, spark plugs, and more blah blah (sorry for the tude). > > Is anyone coming to Arlington this year? Primarily July 11 or 12 - > the > weekend - in their KR? (Not bringing pictures of it . . . I mean > flying > it here?) > > How about a KR2S? > > I'd hate to spend my time taking pictures of Lanceairs and RV's!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 21:02:06 -0700 From: Darrin West Subject: Re: KR: KR-2 Accident MR JEAN R VERON wrote: > > >From AP > > A KR-2 crashed shortly after takeoff Wednesday May 6th in Warsaw > Poland. The wreckage was found in the Warsaw cemetary. Three hundred > bodies have been recovered and that number is expected to climb as > digging goes thru the night. > > Jean > N4DD ;-) Is this supposed to be a Polock joke? If so I'd like to find humor in something other than a plane crash. Darrin West KR-1 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 21:21:51 EDT From: DC4FREE Subject: Re: KR: stick configuration if you have a dual I have a center single want to work out a swap of somekind?? Don at Pain Field WA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 20:35:21 -0500 From: "Thomas J. Towle" Subject: Re: KR: KR-2 Accident MR JEAN R VERON wrote: > > >From AP > > A KR-2 crashed shortly after takeoff Wednesday May 6th in Warsaw > Poland. The wreckage was found in the Warsaw cemetary. Three hundred > bodies have been recovered and that number is expected to climb as > digging goes thru the night. > > Jean > N4DD ;-) In poor taste for general consumption, even on the KR net. TJT ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 21:42:14 EDT From: DC4FREE Subject: Re: KR: Removable forward deck a con-vert-able KR-2 sounds great lets scan the pic and put up on the net Don in Pain field that is WA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 20:48:25 -0500 From: "Thomas J. Towle" Subject: Re: KR: KR-2 Accident Darrin West wrote: > > MR JEAN R VERON wrote: > > > > >From AP > > > > A KR-2 crashed shortly after takeoff Wednesday May 6th in Warsaw > > Poland. The wreckage was found in the Warsaw cemetary. Three hundred > > bodies have been recovered and that number is expected to climb as > > digging goes thru the night. > > > > Jean > > N4DD ;-) > Is this supposed to be a Polock joke? If so I'd like to find humor > in something other than a plane crash. > > Darrin West > KR-1 Good for you, Darrin...moreover, and even more importantly, there's no place for nationality-prejudicial crap on the KR net. Using an AGGIE would have been OK...because it's one of our own, so to speak. Besides, Polish industry has produced some fine aircraft, and the Polish people in general have heard this kind of junk for far too long. They are a bright, intelligent group of Europeans, and we should get off their case. And Jean, no need to come back to me telling me you didn't think you'd cause so much concern. I know you didn't...and I know you were just trying to be humorous. It IS kind of a cute joke, but shouldn't be at the expense of a particular people who, God knows, have been the brunt of this kind of humor over the years. TJT ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 19:07:25 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: KR-2 Accident At 08:48 PM 5/6/98 -0500, you wrote: Good for you, Darrin...moreover, and even more importantly, there's no >place for nationality-prejudicial crap on the KR net. Using an AGGIE >would have been OK...because it's one of our own, so to speak. >>>> Well I am gona be a jerk and say I plan to use this joke at the airport ASAP because I think its pretty damn funny! When a person fails to find humor in something because it contains a reference to a race, religion, or nationality then they have a problem! 90% of the time they are laughing on the inside but for some reason feel to shameful to laugh out loud. To heck with that! PC,....hell I cant even spell it! :o) zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 22:11:42 -0700 From: Darrin West Subject: Re: KR: KR-2 Accident Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 08:48 PM 5/6/98 -0500, you wrote: > Good for you, Darrin...moreover, and even more importantly, there's no > >place for nationality-prejudicial crap on the KR net. Using an AGGIE > >would have been OK...because it's one of our own, so to speak. >>>> > > Well I am gona be a jerk and say I plan to use this joke at the airport ASAP > because I think its pretty damn funny! When a person fails to find humor in > something because it contains a reference to a race, religion, or > nationality then they have a problem! 90% of the time they are laughing on > the inside but for some reason feel to shameful to laugh out loud. To heck > with that! PC,....hell I cant even spell it! :o) > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > Micheal Mims > SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ > Irvine Ca > Fax 714.856.9417 > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ My problem is with the crash more than cracking on a nationality. There is nothing "funny" about crashing a plane. You won't be laughing if you loose elevator control in a poorly trimed aircraft. Darrin West KR-1 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 21:28:10 -0000 From: "Brian J Bland" Subject: Re: KR: KR-2 Accident >At 08:48 PM 5/6/98 -0500, you wrote: >Good for you, Darrin...moreover, and even more importantly, there's no >>place for nationality-prejudicial crap on the KR net. Using an AGGIE >>would have been OK...because it's one of our own, so to speak. >>>> > >Well I am gona be a jerk and say I plan to use this joke at the airport ASAP >because I think its pretty damn funny! When a person fails to find humor in >something because it contains a reference to a race, religion, or >nationality then they have a problem! 90% of the time they are laughing on >the inside but for some reason feel to shameful to laugh out loud. To heck >with that! PC,....hell I cant even spell it! :o) >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >Micheal Mims > Way to go Mike! I agree with you 100%!! It was just a simple funny joke! Now all you crybabies get over it and get back to building that KR!! :) Brian J. Bland Claremore, OK bbland@busprod.com http://www.busprod.com/bbland/kr2s.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 20:35:10 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: Composite finishing techniques I stole this from the Cozy list. Hopefully it will be of value to the bubbas here as well. No name but the guys email address is included. Ron Lee Reply-To: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Don Ponciroli asked that I make some comments on finishing my Cosy Classic.= I=20 felt there were more builders that would be intrested, sorry its so long,= but=20 I thought it was all pertinant.=20 COMPOSITE AIRCRAFT FINISHING TIPS Although this is primarily a tool and material list, there are=20 many tips included. 1) TOOLS a) Power i) Dremel Tool with assorted grinding wheels, cutters,=20 sanding drums. The router base is excellent along with a=20 straightedge and =BD" sanding drum for trimming trailing=20 edges, and with a flat grinding wheel recesses like the=20 landing brake can be contoured, and the flat stone when=20 set flush with the bottom of the router base can flush=20 off nubbins and micro or flox on foam. I have 2, one is=20 now home, the other at the airport, but during=20 construction, it was a real time saver to have them set=20 up with different cutters. Dremel will for about $30=20 maximum repair a broke tool. The slide switches are=20 susceptible to dust, and many times a blast of compressed=20 air while moving the switch will solve the problem. I=20 purchased a 1.5" sanding disc for the dremel 8 years ago,=20 it is great, but I haven't seen one for sale in years. If=20 anyone sees them please let me know.=20 ii) DA sander (compressed air orbital or rotary 6" dia.=20 Prefer Detroit brand) with PSA (self adhesive) discs in=20 220 and 80 grit. Use only in orbital mode, do not use=20 rotary mode on fiberglass since it cuts quick. I only=20 used to scuff or where I wanted to remove fiberglass. Use=20 with wool and foam buffing pads for polishing paint to=20 high gloss. Needs at least 5 SCFM compressor. 2) Measuring Tools a) Wallpaper hangers 7 foot extruded aluminum straightedge.=20 Though used more during earlier construction, very useful=20 for ensuring a surface is flat. b) =BC" x 2" x 3" aluminum bar. Same a above, when edge dragged=20 with moderate pressure of micro surface, it will leave black=20 marks on high spots. Shine light from behind to see low=20 spots. After sanding the high spots as much as possible,=20 Using the various methods to detect low spots, I usually=20 would put small tick marks at the extents of the low spots,=20 then connect the tick marks as a guide when spreading more=20 micro. Different color pencils help distinguish the current=20 marks, when you get many layers. c) 12" steel rule, like comes with combination square. On edge=20 (the back of a hacksaw blade also) when rocked ove a curved=20 (even slightly) will click if not perfectly rounded. Also=20 one can compare the rate of divergence on both side of the=20 contact point to tell if the rate of curvature is uniform. d) Various flexible metal (steel and aluminum) and plastic=20 metal strips. Must be perfectly straight. When bent with the=20 flat side down around a curve, gaps will be evident at low=20 spots. e) Water and a sponge or rag. Wipe the area with a damp sponge=20 with a light shining toward you. The thin layer of water=20 will reflect the light, showing defects.=20 3) Filler Application Tools a) Various size polyethylene squeegees, mostly used 3" x 4",=20 used by Auto body shops for Bondo (Polyester filler). Can be=20 bent between 3 fingers for curves. b) 2" x 3" x 1/8" Rubber squeegee for smaller areas. c) 6" rubber squeegee, Wicks # 14-4546, Best for leveling micro=20 on large surfaces, less tearing. Can be bent with hands or=20 fingers for curves. Go at 90 degrees for leveling, usually=20 will find one direction or the other will result in best=20 surface. Vary the angle to regulate the thickness. With=20 moderate pressure can fill pinholes with thin micro,=20 removing excess material. Use 50/50 micro and "Cab-O-SIL"=20 Wicks # M5 to consistence of shaving cream for best results=20 in filling pin holes. Its too heavy for all but last coat of=20 filler. I found that for larger areas, it might take 6 coats=20 of filler to get the contour and smoothness I was happy=20 with. 4) Sanding Tools a) Oak or other hardwood (well aged and stable straight, and=20 not softwood) 5/4 (1.125" thick) x 1/3 sandpaper sheet wide=20 x 4 sandpaper sheet lengths long (exactly size). Mill with a=20 router, near full length finger grooves on edges. Glue 80=20 grit paper with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. When the paper=20 is dull (keep it sharp for best results in leveling) clamp=20 one end to your bench, use wide putty knife and heat gun to=20 remove paper, one extra swat with knife and heat to clean=20 up, and glue new paper. Use mostly with 45 degree strokes=20 several one way, then several the other. In the early stages=20 of leveling a surface, Use to find high spots, use next item=20 down with 36 grit for faster action. Needless to say, STOP=20 as soon as the glass is encountered. This is more difficult=20 today with the clear epoxies. The Amber color of Safety=20 Epoxy would give good warning. b) 2 Sanding boards for 2.75" x 17" sand paper sheets with=20 handle similar to wood plane. These are the work horse=20 tools. Early coats of micro are sanded with 36 grit/80 grit,=20 and final with 80 grit/220 grit. These have lightly padded=20 surfaces, and quick release spring clips for the paper. They=20 will do a moderate job of leveling, but unless the paper is=20 glued to a hard flat surface, it will leave a wavy surface.=20 Use at 90 degrees, several strokes each way if possible. c) The whole sheet sanding spline on the Ez instructions.=20 Mostly used with 220 grit for final sanding. d) Various small sanding blocks (concave and convex)=20 Woodworkers Supply # 808-379 and 810-537, about $4 each set,=20 1-800-645-9292 e) Exacto knife u-shaped rounded blades for inside corners,=20 will nibble at micro. Sharp wood chisels also, both work=20 good when epoxy is at knife stage. f) Several flat sanding blocks, the type where you peal up the=20 rubber top, exposing points to grip the sandpaper. g) Make your own sanding blocks. Glue or wrap around. I have=20 used everything from hot wired foam, =BD" EMT steel thinwall=20 electrical conduit to 4" plastic drain pipe. Use your=20 imagination. 5) Filling Materials a) West 105 resin (gallon), 205 Fast and 206 Slow hardeners=20 (quart). Buy 2 sets of pumps. The fast will cure if mixed in=20 the morning, can sand in the late afternoon, and put another=20 coat on. The slow will cure overnight and is sandable the=20 next morning. The fast will go Bang (exotherm) if mixed in=20 large quantities, and gets sticky fairly quick. Best results=20 will be with the slow, but the time is a real advantage.=20 When mixing be consistent with the ratio of micro to epoxy,=20 otherwise the richer in epoxy will sand harder, making it=20 difficult to make it level. I used 4 oz paper cups, but have=20 since changed to coffee scoops. b) Micro, the usual stuff. As mentioned above CAB O SIL for the=20 last coat squeezed hard to only fill small depressions. c) Flox, also the usual stuff, all leading edges must not be=20 micro, but flox to prevent chipping from bugs and other=20 debris. 6) Sanding Materials (Probably will have some left, but this will=20 be least costly). a) For Air sander: 1 box ea. 80grit and 220 grit b) Sandpaper sheets: 1 sleeve ea. 80 grit and 220 grit c) 2.75" x 17" sandpaper: 1 box each 36 grit, 80 grit, 220=20 grit. d) 20 sheets 320 wet/dry paper for wet sanding primer e) 30 sheets 1500 wet/dry for color sanding if you paint will=20 allow. 7) Primer Material a) Tenaco epoxy primer, Viking Paints, Inc. 100 W. 78th Street,=20 Richfield, Minn. (Near Minneapolis), phone 614-866-1212. 2=20 Gallon unit of gray and 1 gallon (1/2 gallon epoxy, =BD gallon=20 hardner) of zinc chromate bright yellow. Use the gray for=20 main filler of fine scratches, can add some micro, say 4=20 fluid oz. Per quart. Add gradually, sieving through paint=20 strainer (the paper cone type) with much stirring to prevent=20 lumps. Then spray a thinned (lacquer thinner 1 to 4 primer)=20 light mist coat, should flow into scratches pits and other=20 defects. When wet sanding with 320, aim at removing all=20 yellow! If you decide to leave some in defects, they will=20 show through the finished paint, but they may be at an=20 obscure location. Note that some catalyzed systems require a=20 time after mixing and before applying. This is to allow some=20 thinners to flash off. The material evaporating can cause=20 pinholes. Most of the problems with pinholes is=20 understanding whats happening. The pinhole starts with a=20 lean layup (which for weight reasons is good). The pinhole=20 is a very small crater, with a very smooth waxy surface.=20 When sanding to scuff the fiberglass surface these little=20 craters keep their slick surface. If the crater is small=20 enough, or the paint material surface tension allows, the=20 paint will bridge the crater, and you may be home free, But,=20 when you sand, you may break the top of the bubble creating=20 the notorious pinhole. Usually the pinhole is small enough=20 that if your successful filling once, that's good. Sometimes=20 its possible to rub in a viscous material, but the real=20 trick is to see them and deal with them.=20 b) Do Not use any lacquer base primer surfacers, they do not=20 provide an adequate bond to the top coat, and flaking=20 pealing, and chipping will occur. c) Fine filler =96 I have lately used a fine ground auto body=20 filler (polyester)bondo type that takes the place of the=20 lacquer putty that used to be used to fill isolated=20 scratches. I have heard lately don't use polyester, I don't=20 know, using very small quantities. Its neat in that it cures=20 in 5 minutes, and sands readily. d) Material just under the color coats, and applied immediately=20 prior. Called primer, sealer, bond coat, etc. To enhance the=20 adhesion of the top coats, generally an epoxy or other=20 catalyzed material, do not use lacquer base here either.=20 This material will be part of the system prescribed as part=20 of the top coat paint. Follow all exactly. For my Deltron, I=20 used the Ditzler DP50/DP401 light gray epoxy primer. It gets=20 thinned, and then just a light coat is required, color=20 hiding not required, but wet enough to flow out. There are=20 minimum and maximum times until the top coat is applied. e) Top Coats: I used Ditzler Deltron (DAU series). No=20 clearcoat, pearls, metallics etc. for the white. The Plain=20 Deltron is very easy to blend for repairs. Sand the blend=20 area with 1500 wet paper, paint, spray reducer on blend area=20 to melt overspray and orange peal. When cured the next day,=20 sand the blend area until a uniform dull color, and buff out=20 per below. If another paint system is considered, verify=20 that the blending is possible. Imron is very difficult if=20 not impossible to blend, and many others are also. You will=20 find it necessary to touch up due to hanger rash,=20 modifications, and just routine wear and tear. My trim=20 colors are the Deltron clearcoat system, which provides more=20 brilliant metallic. The trim can be blended, but also these=20 are small areas. The trim should be masked to both sides of=20 the dividing line so there is only one thickness of paint=20 everywhere, where possible. On exception usually is the=20 registration number. For the interior, flattener and texture=20 additives are available to modify the gloss and texture. My=20 instrument panel cover is dull, texture Deltron black, and=20 the instrument panel is matte slate gray Deltron. The=20 interior is Ditzler acrylic lacquer off white that is matte=20 from applying slightly dry and not buffing. It is moderately=20 durable, if I was doing it again, I would use Deltron.=20 f) Painting: I used a 1 hp. 4.6cfm compressor and Binks #370A=20 internal mix spray gun (not HVLP). The gun is the largest=20 air flow I could find for my compressor. If you have a=20 larger compressor, I would suggest a gun with higher air=20 usage. I have had zero experience with HVLP equipment, but I=20 do know the demonstrations I see at OSH are not anywhere=20 near the volume of paint flow needed. The Deltron dries dust=20 free quickly, and most of the overspray is dryfall as dust.=20 The Deltron prefers fairly heavy flow, and make sure your=20 outfit (HLVP or conventional) can put out enough paint flow.=20 Have a strong light at a shallow angle to the sprayed=20 surface, with our eyeball at the opposite side from the=20 spray pattern. You can now see the paint surface immediately=20 after the spray pattern passes. The first coat wants to be=20 50% coverage (the under color should be somewhat visible),=20 and it may not flow out, wait until you can touch the=20 masking tape without lifting fresh paint before starting=20 that area of the next for all coats. Most of the time unless=20 it's a small area, by the time you get done at one end, the=20 starting end will be ready for the next coat. The second=20 coat should cover and start to flow out. The 3rd and 4th or=20 so coats should flow out. While watching the flow out with=20 the light behind the spray, you can see quickly whether to=20 go faster or slower. If its not flowing out 4" behind the=20 spray, go slower, but if you go too slow, runs may result.=20 The Deltron is very forgiving, if its not running in 5=20 minutes, its, not going to. The worst thing is too little=20 paint when done, then you will rub through. If you do get a=20 run, it is possible to tape a loop of masking tape, sticky=20 out, and gently touch the fresh paint. The resulting mottled=20 surface usually will flow out with additional paint, and=20 with some sanding will disappear.=20 g) Trim: All of my outside lettering (from the 12" Registration=20 number to =BC" fuel tank capacity) is the same paint system=20 (Deltron) with paint masks. Most of my interior lettering is=20 prespaced vinyl lettering. Prespaced means the lettering=20 comes assembled between 2 pieces of release paper, exactly=20 as your copy shows. I usually would use my word processor or=20 speadsheet (including fonts, size and spacing) to make a=20 sample, hold in location, and if OK fax or mail. Both the=20 paint masks and lettering came from Aerographics, 1-800-336- 9633. To apply, trim the release paper to minimum size, use=20 a masking tape hinge to hold a one edge in exactly in=20 position, hinge up and peal off the bottom release paper,=20 squeegee down, remove the top paper. For more durability,=20 spray coat with "KRYlON" Clear spray. Careful, don't use=20 catalyzed coatings, they will damage the lettering. For=20 masking the top coats, use the fine line (vinyl ??) masking=20 tape next to the fresh paint, and paper masking tape on top=20 that to hold the paper. If using newspaper, caution one edge=20 is perforated by the press paper feeder, run a strip of=20 making tape over the little holes to seal.=20 h) Finishing the top coat: Sand everything to a dull uniform=20 finish with 1500 wet paper. Glue paper to a small (2" x 2")=20 wood block. With sharp paper this can be used to flatten=20 runs, and the masking ridge between 2 colors. Buff with an=20 orbital wool pad using 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound=20 #051131-06011, then Buff with an wool pad with Mequiar's=20 Show car glaze, then buff with a foam pad using Liquid ebony=20 #27 from Cleanbright Manufacturing Co., 1324 Herschell st.,=20 Bronx, Ny, 10461. Its advertised as a wheel mark remover. Do=20 not use a rotary buffer, they cut too fast, gouge, burn, and=20 unless very artfully used cause more damage. The Deltron=20 polishes to a very high gloss quickly. The hardest will be=20 the sanding. Finish with a good automotive paste wax.=20 Annually I go over with lightly doing the above, except for=20 the 1500 sanding.=20 Happy Finishing, take your time, borrow from a local body shop an=20 old hood or trunk lid and practice. =20 ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V2 #76 ****************************