From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Monday, May 11, 1998 8:24 PM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #79 krnet-l-digest Monday, May 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 079 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 09 May 98 09:11:32 CST From: "dboll" Subject: Re: KR: Cowling. I just measured my cowling for a Revmaster and it is 26 1/4 in. from fire= wall to prop opening. It is a new Hapi and It is for sale. Don - ---------- > Does anyone have a Revmaster RR cowling sitting around out there? If = so could > you measure the length and let me know? > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY > kr2616tj@aol.com > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 19:27:54 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Transponder antenna Did we ever get any reports back from KR builders who mounted their transponder antennas inside and it worked? I talked to two Dragonfly guys and one LongEZ guy today who all ended up mounting the antennas outside the aircraft. All three tried to mount them inside and the signal was too weak! After they mounted the antenna in the normal fashion they all worked perfect. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 21:58:10 -0500 From: "Dean R. Collette, MD" Subject: KR: KR2 For sale In case anyone is interested - I ran across this while surfing earlier: KR-2 PROJECT. . 70 percent finished. All building records. Wings need finishing. Very full instrument panel. VW 1825cc engine (aircraft). Retractable landing gear. Can arrange transport. Make me an offer. Contact Jim Darwin (email L_Jones@bc.sympatico.ca) in Canada. Telephone: 250-558-6567. -- Posted: 5/8/98 Dean drdean@execpc.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 21:34:48 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: Wood Prop Torque Values? Seems this was discussed a while back but I can't find it in my KR email file. What is the proper torque range for wood props? Seems like it was in the 15 ft-lb range. Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 22:57:23 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: RE: Wood Prop Torque Values? Ron Lee wrote: > What is the proper torque range for wood props? Seems like it was in > the 15 ft-lb range. Ron, I think that what we arrived at (after the FIRST KRNet pissin' contest and unsubscriptions by vital KRNet members) was ask the prop manuafacturer for his recommendation. Who made your prop? Mark Langford langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kr2s.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 00:20:31 EDT From: MikeT nyc Subject: Re: KR: Thanks for all the info!! ><< I know > they happen infrequently, but the off-topic pissing contests have gotten the > better of me, and I don't care to read them anymore. I subscribed to the > digest to try and cut down my "useless" message traffic, but it has even > become difficult to pick the pearls from among the muck on the digest. >> > >Rick, I hate to see you go, for that matter you may already be xxxubscribed. >If you are not going to change your mind, be assured I appreciate your input >on this net and I for one have already used your test plan in test flying my >buddies Kitfox for him, but you know that as I have told you so off the >KRnet. >I understand how you feel. I'll get on a soapbox here and reply "off >subject" >but guys there is enough good information to go around, keep it on subject >and >IF YOU ARE OFFENDED BY SOMETHING SOMEONE SAYS, DO US ALL A FAVOR AND SIMPLY >DON'T REPLY . If you have another opinion "on topic", and that's KRs, let us >know. If you still want to reply, do it off the KRnet, I don't want to listen >to your pissing, nor does anyone else. All you newbees, hang in here it's >not >always like this. . . . I have to say, I've been on other lists and the flame wars on this one are pretty mild. (The "KR accident joke" thread is the only one I've seen for a long time). There's a lot of off-topic posting, but the civility level here is pretty good. I also hope Rick changes his mind. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 00:20:26 EDT From: MikeT nyc Subject: Re: KR: KR titles and Porno-Spam >>Therefore, if people post things like "Check this Out!", "Yoo-Hoo!", >"Zowee!", >>or (today's winner) "BOM," they gets deleted unread, because that's how >>pornographers title their posts and I don't have time to open all the >garbage >>before I delete it. >> >>The best thing, of course, is when the title actually explains what the post >>is about, but could it at least mention KR's or flying in some way? > >Doesn't the "KR" that is automatically appended in the subject line let you >know that it isn't a Porno letter anyway? :) > >What kind of filters are you using? If you see KR in the subject, seems >that would mean "no delete". > >I am confused here. Is AOL deleting the "KR" in your subject lines? > >PS I get my KR list at my internet site, but I do have AOL and can relate >the the Spam problem you mention. But, the sender address would also >indicate that it isn't a porn post. These things are always visible in my >mailbox to some degree...owner-krnet-l,etc. The replies always have "KR" on them, but I don't think the original message always does, or I wouldn't be having this problem. AOL 3.0 keeps crashing on my machine, so I'm still using AOL 2.5, which may be part of the problem. >Um, Mike, BOM stands for "Bill Of Materials"... Yeah, I eventually figured this out, since there were later posts saying "Re: BOM." People don't send replies to porno spam (at least not on the kind of lists I subscribe to) so I realized the original "BOM" wasn't porn and opened one of the replies. By then the original "BOM" was deleted.. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 21:46:06 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Wood Prop Torque Values? At 09:34 PM 5/9/98 -0600, you wrote: >Seems this was discussed a while back but I can't find it in >my KR email file. > >What is the proper torque range for wood props? Seems like it was in >the 15 ft-lb range. > >Ron Lee > Call the prop maker! zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 00:38:32 -0700 From: "Martin Mulvey" Subject: KR: Re: Transponder antenna Hi all, I think that that the transponder antenna will have to be mounted outside unless a really good ground plane is provided inside. I am not sure we have suitable room in our birds. I plan to put mine outside. BRGDS Marty - -----Original Message----- From: Micheal Mims To: krnet-l@teleport.com Date: 09 May, 1998 19:27 Subject: KR: Transponder antenna >Did we ever get any reports back from KR builders who mounted their >transponder antennas inside and it worked? I talked to two Dragonfly guys >and one LongEZ guy today who all ended up mounting the antennas outside the >aircraft. All three tried to mount them inside and the signal was too weak! >After they mounted the antenna in the normal fashion they all worked perfect. > >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >Micheal Mims >SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >Irvine Ca >Fax 714.856.9417 >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 07:51:30 From: Flesner Subject: Re: KR: Re: Flight Test At 10:24 AM 5~9~98 -0400, you wrote: >Jean, >......................snip >What this means is that at 175 mph the wingtips are flying at a 2.5 >degree negative angle of attack. I would think that the center section >has to fly at an higher angle of attack than necessary, just to counter >this. Could this cause negative lift at the wingtips? >..............................snip >-Tom in Orlando >Assembling Outer Main Spars > Tom, My built-to-plans wing is 3 1/2 degrees at the root and 1/2 degree at the tip. That would have the center section flying at 1 degree positive and the tip at 2 degrees negative. Unless the outer wing is generating negative lift at this angle I don't see where it is going to slow you down. It seems to me that it would have the center section developing more of the lift, reduce the "arm" of the lift and help to unload the wing attach fittings. As I am only a "bubba" engineer this is only speculation on my part and not backed up by any science. For Jean, if you have time It would be interesting to have you place the KR in the 175 position on the ground and then give us a read of the firewall and the horizontal stab. Do you know what reference was used to build your KR? Is there a way to verify 3 1/2 degrees with the spot you used at 0 degrees. I suspect the longerons at that point may be other than 0 degrees with the wing at 3 1/2 degrees. Any info you can give us would help so we can at least "speculate" with a known quanity. I'm still wondering how you got all those different wings to fit on the same KR !!! Any secrets?/ Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 10:43:54 EDT From: KR2 616TJ Subject: Re: KR: Inverted at last! In a message dated 98-05-09 19:50:23 EDT, you write: << I plan to use the Stits water based primer on top of the super fil, I will keep everyone post on the results. By the way, I have heard from a few guys now that the best way to apply the primer / filler is with one of those foam brushes. This should be interesting! zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims >> Mike, when I saw the guy at Sun & Fun apply the primer he used a real fine grade foam 4" roller from Home Depot and applied it very thin. He used four coats before he applied the UV shield. He did not sand any of these first four coats, he only sanded after applying a couple more coats on top of the UV shield. When I say thin coats, he said that the four coats had a mil thickness of less than one spray coat and it filled the pins holes much better. He even rolled on the UV shield. If I'm not mistaken he said that the whole rolled on process had a mil thickness equal to 2 sprayed on coats. Dana Overall Richmond, KY kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 09:55:55 -0000 From: "Brian J Bland" Subject: Re: KR: Re: Flight Test >I'm still wondering how you got all those different wings to fit on >the same KR !!! Any secrets?/ > >Larry Flesner > The only reason that Jean's wings fit on Martins KR was that Martin used the original plans built wings that came off of Jean's airplane. These KR's are probably the only KR's that would be able to swap wings. Brian J. Bland Claremore, OK bbland@busprod.com http://www.busprod.com/bbland/kr2s.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 09 May 98 22:52:50 CST From: "dboll" Subject: KR: Re: kr parts or sale - ---------- > KR2 PARTS FOR SALE > DIEHL MAIN GEAR $420 > DIEHL NOSE GEAR 420 > NOSE WHEEL AND TIRE 62 > DIEHL WING SKINS 1500 > SLING SEAT 46 > VW COWL 360 > CANOPY 350 > RUDDER ASS. 122 > CONTROL STICK ASS. 160 > TAIL WHEEL 25 > PULLEY ASS. 48 > TURNNBUCKLE KIT 150 > PIANO HINGS 125 > FUEL CELL 110 > DASH 100 > NEW PRICE $3998 > WILL SELL ALL FOR 50%OF COST $1999 > THE WINGS ARE READY FOR PAINT > THE FUSELAGE IS SITTING ON THE GEAR > WITH CANOPY FRAME AND TURTLE DECKS > COMPLET.IF BUYER WANTS HE CAN HAVE > AT NO EXTRA PRICE.ALSO CONSTRUCTION PLANS > AND NEWS LETTERS > CALL DON AT 701-272-6353 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 10:30:10 -0600 From: Adrian Carter Subject: Re: KR: Re: Transponder antenna Hi Gang, Had three antennae in my KR, VHF ham, Com and my encoding transponder. The two VHF antennae I fabricated out of RG58U and were a continuation into a tranmission line into the plug. The two were half wave dipoles, with the radiating center section epoxied crosswise at the top of the turtle deck, shielding continued down the side, there were no electrical bumps, sans connectors between the radiator and BNC plug. The transponder antenna was mounted vertically on a 12 in square 1/4 in plywood epoxied to the top longeron and a cross-member with tin foil glued under the antenna. You do not any more than 1/3 greater than the radiator length for a ground plane. ie: 8" radiator, 12" ground plane. All antennae had a SWR of 1:1, and had worked stations over 60 miles, never had any problems making contact. there you have it inexpensive and simple. All antennae were mounted half way between the seat and tail. Some therorist may say this is not the way to mount it but, in my years of hamming - theory is one thing, real life is another, it works! - -- Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera Martin Mulvey wrote: > > Hi all, > > I think that that the transponder antenna will have to be mounted outside > unless a really good ground plane is provided inside. I am not sure we have > suitable room in our birds. I plan to put mine outside. > > BRGDS Marty > -----Original Message----- > From: Micheal Mims > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Date: 09 May, 1998 19:27 > Subject: KR: Transponder antenna > > >Did we ever get any reports back from KR builders who mounted their > >transponder antennas inside and it worked? I talked to two Dragonfly guys > >and one LongEZ guy today who all ended up mounting the antennas outside the > >aircraft. All three tried to mount them inside and the signal was too > weak! > >After they mounted the antenna in the normal fashion they all worked > perfect. > > > >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > >Micheal Mims > >SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! > >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ > >Irvine Ca > >Fax 714.856.9417 > >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:06:00 CST From: "Rex Ellington" Subject: KR: KR-2S Progress G'Day All Most of you are probably too young to have heard of Wrong Way Corrigan. He supposedly took off for the west but wound up in Ireland/England. Sly. My plan may sound like his flight plan. My plan is to build components first and when I absolutely must build the fuselage, dive into it. I hope this will reduce waiting on materials, decisions, etc. when the garage/attic/my third of hanger are taken up by the big pieces. To date I have been reconciling KR2 plans, RR KR2S plans, and the KR2S plans Mark Langford sent out for comments. I am indebted to M. L. for the narrative and jpegs on his rudder pedals/brake design. Cut all the steel tubing for the pedals in a friend's shop on a 12 in. cut-off wheel on Fri. in 1.5 hr. Am tacking the pieces to a line-up board to start welding. Will be marking the 4 in. Al angle for the brake pedals this week. Have been marking up h. stab/elevator plans for what I think would work and asked M. L. for comment. Plan is to use 9% symmetrical airfoil w. 28 in. inboard rib, and 19 in outboard rib. Will use a different hinge design. Don't like sharp internal corners on standard channel hinges - stress concentration. Have asked M. L. for his opinion on following design change. 1. leave all three spars at current locations across top of fuselage. 2. leave tip rib at its current location, but put ballance weights at tips. 3. slide location of inboard rib about 1.75 in. forward of standard location to reduce elevator area slightly and increase stabilizer area slightly, and improve the area ratio. 4. This would increase the dept of the notch at the front of the h. stab. and push the nose of the rib into the turtle deck that much. 5). Cut the inboard rib to fit its new locations relative to spars. Am building a cockpit mockup from pine, plywood scraps, and dry wall in the attic. Will use it to build components and custom fit them to dimensions I have set for fuselage, i.e., seats, sticks, pushrods, seatbacks, panel, canopy, wiring harness, etc. All to minimize fit-up time when I do hit the fuselage. COMMENTS??? Rex Ellington Rex T. Ellington ellingto@gslan.offsys.ou.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 15:48:46 -0000 From: "Brian J Bland" Subject: KR: Re: KR-2S Progress >My plan is to build components first and when I >absolutely must build the fuselage, dive into it. >I hope this will reduce waiting on materials, decisions, >etc. when the garage/attic/my third of hanger are >taken up by the big pieces. > >To date I have been reconciling KR2 plans, RR KR2S >plans, and the KR2S plans Mark Langford sent out for >comments. > >I am indebted to M. L. for the narrative and jpegs on his >rudder pedals/brake design. Cut all the steel tubing for the >pedals in a friend's shop on a 12 in. cut-off wheel on Fri. >in 1.5 hr. Am tacking the pieces to a line-up board to >start welding. Will be marking the 4 in. Al angle for the >brake pedals this week. > >Have been marking up h. stab/elevator plans for what I >think would work and asked M. L. for comment. Plan >is to use 9% symmetrical airfoil w. 28 in. inboard rib, and >19 in outboard rib. Will use a different hinge design. Don't >like sharp internal corners on standard channel hinges - >stress concentration. Have asked M. L. for his opinion on >following design change. 1. leave all three spars at current >locations across top of fuselage. 2. leave tip rib at its >current location, but put ballance weights at tips. >3. slide location of inboard rib about 1.75 in. forward of >standard location to reduce elevator area slightly and >increase stabilizer area slightly, and improve the area >ratio. 4. This would increase the dept of the notch at >the front of the h. stab. and push the nose of the rib >into the turtle deck that much. 5). Cut the inboard >rib to fit its new locations relative to spars. > >Am building a cockpit mockup from pine, plywood scraps, >and dry wall in the attic. Will use it to build components >and custom fit them to dimensions I have set for fuselage, >i.e., seats, sticks, pushrods, seatbacks, panel, canopy, >wiring harness, etc. All to minimize fit-up time when >I do hit the fuselage. > >COMMENTS??? > >Rex Ellington >Rex T. Ellington > Rex, Good to see that you are now building. I was interested in reading your mods to the tail. I am now in the process of deciding how I want to build it. I am considering staying with the basic design in the plans and just modifying it a bit. Mods so far (I am just getting started! :) ): 1. Hotwired cores (I hate urethane!! All components in the plane that used urethane will be made of hotwired foam. Thanks to Mike Mims! :) ) 2. Airfoil has been modified so far by adding 2 inches to the inboard rib forward of the spars. 3. Still looking for a different hinge to use. Well thats all for now. Brian J. Bland Claremore, OK bbland@busprod.com http://www.busprod.com/bbland/kr2s.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 17:08:50 EDT From: Kr2dream Subject: KR: fuel tank question I am using the RR premolded header tank which is assembled according to instructions and I used vinyl ester as the adhesive with the proper layers of sealant along the joints of the tank halves. Is it necessary to use a sloshing compound on the inside of the tank to seal against the vinyl ester or the tank itself? First pass with fuel only showed three areas with small pinholes. OK for a start, but now to fix them. Any suggestions on the tank lining would be appreciated. Bob Lasecki Sunny Chicago & just finished my BFR! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 23:26:10 +0200 From: Kobus de Wet Subject: KR: FW: fuel tank question I used a 3M product EC776, which the Airforce here use to seal their tanks. I had some pin holes in my tank and applied two coats. a friend of mine had a main tank that was in a very bad shape as far as leaks were concerned. We both had excelent results. The product can be applied with a brush and the brush can be cleaned with thinners afterwords. At normal room temp a single coat will dry in app. 5 - 7 hours. Kobus de Wet In Cape Town Sunny South Africa (it has been raining here for the last week) Should be airborne by the middle of next moth. I am using the RR premolded header tank which is assembled according to instructions and I used vinyl ester as the adhesive with the proper layers of sealant along the joints of the tank halves. Is it necessary to use a sloshing compound on the inside of the tank to seal against the vinyl ester or the tank itself? First pass with fuel only showed three areas with small pinholes. OK for a start, but now to fix them. Any suggestions on the tank lining would be appreciated. Bob Lasecki Sunny Chicago & just finished my BFR! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:30:58, -0500 From: YCGB97A@prodigy.com (MR JEAN R VERON) Subject: KR: fuel tank question Slosh with vinyl ester. It is fuel proof. Jean N4DD Broken Arrow, OK ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:41:06, -0500 From: YCGB97A@prodigy.com (MR JEAN R VERON) Subject: Re: KR: Re: Flight Test Brian is correct>. Martys wings were originally on N4DD. As for wash the other numbers, I think the original plans called for 5deg at the root with 3 deg. washout. I verified the 3 deg washout but need a copy of the original sheet 1 drawing for the root incidence. Dan Diehl told me of a plane built with less incedence and washout that was always faster than his. It was built by Bob Passmore then he sold it to a fellow who flew it for several years and sold it. Its present owner isn't known. Dan also said that when he had the turbo on the VW at 14,000 ft it flew level. Hope this helps. Jean N4DD ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 20:52:16 EDT From: HAshraf Subject: Re: KR: Re: Transponder antenna Last year when I was still in school I took a GPS lab course. One of the labs was to build a helical antenna for L1 frequency (1.57542 Ghz, wavelength: approx 8"). We wound 3 1/2 turns of 0.25" copper foil on an empty yougart cup, and hot glued the cup to the center of a 10" (may be it was 8") stainless steel round baking pan as ground plane. Then we tuned it by using a Hewlet Packard vector analyzer (key to sucess). The final antenna gain was 9 dB, the pattern was wide enough to have better than 6db reception at 40 degree elevation and VSWR was 1.2. Later during the same evening we were able to track 6 satallites on an eight channel receiver. Other groups did a patch antenna (similar to one used in aviation sets) and had similar results. The trick, therefore, is to have a decent ground plane and tune the antenna. After listening to all these reports of cell phones causing cancer I would thing it is probably a good idea to mount the antenna electrically isolated from the pilot as I would not want to be in the path 200 watts of microwave RF energy every time my transponder gets interrogated, which in LA airspace, is probably the highest in the whole world. Haris Ashraf PS: I drove to AS&S to place the order for spruce (fuselage & empennage only) and hope to start building soon. If it were not for KR net I would probably have assembled a Plusar. Thank you all. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 21:16:01 EDT From: HAshraf Subject: KR: YAKS: KR-2S start following the Wrong Way Corrigan YAKS: Yet Another KR Start I am planning to build the same way as the gentleman in the post alluded. There are 103 people ahead of me to get a hangar at the Torrance Airport nearby. All other airports, including MM's Chino, are a tleast an hour drive away on light traffic days. As I live in a small apartment in Manhattan Beach in Southern California and share a garage I cannot have an partially finished airplane sitting in it. I'll have to build all the parts in my garage and the final 'integration' at an airport I could make the test flight. The way I look at it this is how a lot of aerospace projects get done (atleast one project I worked on we used a plywood as the front panel of the payload until four days before flight, we mounted all control switches and other stuff on it and moved over when the front panel was available. I even told two visitors to our lab that we were doing it to save weight). I plan not to deviate much from the plan except enlarging the cockpit few inches (I am pretty skinny and a 34" cockpit is probably OK too) and lengthning the fuselage by six inches to 16' 6". I'll probably end up using an O-200, although by then a 120 HP Jabiru, weighing at 150 lbs, will be hopefully be available. Haris Ashraf ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 21:21:21 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: RE: fuel tank question Bob Lasecki wrote: >Is it necessary to use a > sloshing compound on the inside of the tank to seal against the > vinyl ester or > the tank itself? We had this discussion a while back, and many folks seemed to think that sloshing compound was great until about 10 years had gone by, then it might just start cloggin' up the works. Compounds may have improved substantially, however. Only time will tell. Vinyl ester (my personal favorite, not) is supposed to be practically chemically inert, and is used for all kinds of nasty corrosive chemicals, as well as fuel. It is supposed to be the best choice for fuel tanks. That's what I used, over three layers of glass topped off with peelply to eliminate pinholes. Then, just for good measure, I painted the whole interior with a nice shiney coat of resin. I suppose I could always come back and slosh later if I just absolutely had to. By the way, the promoted vinyl ester that AS&S sells is supposed to only have a shelf life of 2-3 months. I've had mine for nine and it's as viscous as the day I got it, but it has been in my 60 degree basement all this time. I have another gallon in the fridge that will seal my wing tank tops and stub wing glass in the next week or so... Mark Langford mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kr2s.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:23:49 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: RE: fuel tank question At 09:21 PM 5/10/98 -0500, you wrote: Then, just for good measure, I painted the whole interior with a nice shiney coat of resin. I suppose I could always come back and slosh later if I just absolutely had to. > This could very well be the key to no leaks! I have heard this from at least 10 plastic airplane builders who to date, have had NO fuel leaks. Another interesting note, a technical person from the company that makes Aeropoxy was heard saying (in very a low tone) yes this epoxy IS fuel proof. FYI I have had two samples, one of Aeropoxy and one of EZpoxy sitting in 100LL for over a year now and the fuel is still clear and the glass it still hard. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:25:12 -0400 From: "Richard Parker" Subject: Re: KR: Haris Ashraf wote: >PS: I drove to AS&S to place the order for spruce (fuselage & empennage only) >and hope to start building soon. If it were not for KR net I would probably >have assembled a Plusar. Thank you all. Good idea not to build a Pulsar. Right after a friend of mine dropped $30k and received his quick build pulsar kit, they told him not to touch a thing until they were done rewriting the manual. He has been waiting for a year and regularly get packages containing a few nuts and bolts and a couple of new updated pages from the assembly manual. $30k plus a year of waiting for basically an all composite KR!. Same cabin width etc. Rich Parker Jaffrey, NH theparkers@monad.net http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:37:14 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: At 10:25 PM 5/10/98 -0400, you wrote: >$30k plus a year of waiting for basically an all composite KR!. Same cabin width etc.>>> Yeah what's up with that? He could have started building right away if he dropped $30k on the KR2S! :o) zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 714.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:04:20 -0800 From: Bruce Toscano Subject: Re: KR: Fwd Spars I am scratchbuilding a KR2S and am therefore milling my own spruce. The KR2S spruce kit lists the fwd center spars as 2pcs 2 5/32 x 2 - 84" in length or 4pcs 1.25 x 2 - 84" in length. I am using four pieces and will laminate them to achieve the two pieces BUT I don't know any school that taught 1.25 plus 1.25 equals 2 5/32". Is this Rand Robinson math? I will epoxy the two pieces together, clean them up, then mill them down to final size, which is what I assume everyone has done? If not, somebody please teach me the new math . . . Thanks, Still building and most of the time having fun. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:51:41 -0500 From: Ed Janssen Subject: KR: D-Fly Canopy Install? I have a friend who is building a stretched (2 ft) and widened (to 36 inches inside) KR-2. He has a D-Fly canopy he now wishes to install in a similar manner as was seen on Les Palmer's KR at the '97 Gathering. Does anyone know how my friend might be able to get some drawings or sketches of how this has been done - does Les have an e-mail address? He is alternatively looking at side hinging it - maybe someone has done this as well and could share some info. Any suggestions will be welcomed. Thanks for the help. Ed Janssen ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 00:07:02 EDT From: HAshraf Subject: Re: KR: Fwd Spars One other thing I noted when placing my half order: The sizes in the kit and AS&S catalog are not exactly same. Does dis mean that I will have to make some adjustments myself? Haris Ashraf ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 01:43:13 EDT From: HAshraf Subject: Re: KR: In a message dated 98-05-10 22:38:03 EDT, you write: << At 10:25 PM 5/10/98 -0400, you wrote: >$30k plus a year of waiting for basically an all composite KR!. Same cabin width etc.>>> Yeah what's up with that? He could have started building right away if he dropped $30k on the KR2S! :o) >> and would have enjoyed a lively forum. I asked about their situation at Sun 'n' Fun. The newly introduced Pulsar III is the reason. That is Skystar's official line. That airplane can now do 200MPH at 14,000 feet with a 914 turbo. Haris Ashraf ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 23:14:47 -0700 From: "Martin Mulvey" Subject: Re: KR: Fwd Spars Hi all, Yes it is unfortunately randmath. The end result is that you should mill them down to the blueprint size. All the best! Marty - -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Toscano To: krnet-l@teleport.com Date: 10 May, 1998 20:00 Subject: Re: KR: Fwd Spars >I am scratchbuilding a KR2S and am therefore milling my own spruce. > >The KR2S spruce kit lists the fwd center spars as 2pcs 2 5/32 x 2 - 84" >in length or 4pcs 1.25 x 2 - 84" in length. > >I am using four pieces and will laminate them to achieve the two pieces >BUT I don't know any school that taught 1.25 plus 1.25 equals 2 5/32". >Is this Rand Robinson math? > >I will epoxy the two pieces together, clean them up, then mill them down >to final size, which is what I assume everyone has done? > >If not, somebody please teach me the new math . . . > > >Thanks, > > Still building and most of the time having fun. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 06:07:57 -0400 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: Fwd Spars Bruce Toscano wrote: > The KR2S spruce kit lists the fwd center spars as 2pcs 2 5/32 x 2 - 84" > in length or 4pcs 1.25 x 2 - 84" in length. > > I am using four pieces and will laminate them to achieve the two pieces > BUT I don't know any school that taught 1.25 plus 1.25 equals 2 5/32". > Is this Rand Robinson math? The wood will not be milled to the exact dimension, probably +/- 1/32". If I were to do my fuselage again, I would increase the spacing of the vertical members at the spar locations by about 1/16", or make the spars first. Thin shims of spruce would fill the extra area and make it easier to get the proper alignment. - -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 05:19:09 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: RE: D-Fly Canopy Install? Ed Janssen wrote: > I have a friend who is building a stretched (2 ft) and widened (to 36 > inches inside) KR-2. He has a D-Fly canopy he now wishes to install in a > similar manner as was seen on Les Palmer's KR at the '97 Gathering. Does > anyone know how my friend might be able to get some drawings or > sketches of > how this has been done - does Les have an e-mail address? Ed, Les loves to talk about his KR, and I'll bet you'd go broke paying the phone bill on that call before you could get him to hang up. I'm pretty sure his phone number is on my web site (along with a long list of custom KR parts that he makes) under "Les Palmer's KR Machine Shop" in of the list of parts suppliers. I have an old number in Dallas of 214-241-4387.which is probably still good. The key to his canopy intallation is to run a 4130 tube from longeron to longeron BEHIND the panel with two linkage arms welded to it. These keep the sides synchronized. Otherwise you end up with a floppy mess that has no chance of working. Roy Marsh did his this way too, and he's another one that would love to tell you about it. To use this setup, you have to plan on it from the boat stage. You can't wait until your front deck, fuel tank, and panel are done, because too many things get in the way of the mechanism. Les doesn't have an email address. He's too busy building airplanes to mess with email... Mark Langford mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kr2s.html > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com [mailto:owner-krnet-l@teleport.com]On > Behalf Of Ed Janssen > Sent: Sunday, May 10, 1998 10:52 PM > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: D-Fly Canopy Install? > > > I have a friend who is building a stretched (2 ft) and widened (to 36 > inches inside) KR-2. He has a D-Fly canopy he now wishes to install in a > similar manner as was seen on Les Palmer's KR at the '97 Gathering. Does > anyone know how my friend might be able to get some drawings or > sketches of > how this has been done - does Les have an e-mail address? He is > alternatively looking at side hinging it - maybe someone has done this as > well and could share some info. Any suggestions will be welcomed. > > Thanks for the help. > > Ed Janssen > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 17:44:00 -0400 From: "Thomas Gatliff" Subject: KR: KR2 Expert Needed Hello, I am new to the whole KR2 thing and was wondering if someone would possible mind in taking me up in a KR2 to get some experience in one. I would be more than happy to compensate anyone for their help. I currently have about 125 hours in primarily C150 and C172's and I also just started my taildragging in a Super Cub. I live in Macon, Georgia, which is about 1 hour from Atlanta, Georgia. Although, It would be nice if I could find someone in Atlanta, I would be willing to go almost anywhere to get the chance to fly one. All Comments Greatly Appreciated! Thomas Gatliff gatliff@mindspring.com (912) 745-7862 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 20:09:41 -0600 From: Lester Newman Subject: KR: KR UNSUBSCRIBE PLEASE,UNSUBSCRIBE ME FOR AWHILE. THANKS L.NEWMAN manair@cyberhighway.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 21:15:25 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: KR2 Expert Needed Thomas, Plan to attend the KR Gathering September 18 - 20 in Perry, OK. There will be several KRs there and some will be doing intro flights. Marty is always there flying buiders from dawn to dusk. Jim Faughn is usually very active in doing into rides (he was missing some this year due to a distributor problem). I think Jean Veron was doing some rides last year (weren't you?) Randy Smith was doing intro flights, and I did some flights for pax under 150#. I have already committed to giving one KRNet member some substantial stick time while in Perry. If you are under 150#, drop me an e-mail off line and we'll see if we can't get something arranged for then. You are guaranteed to leave charged up and ready to build. Jeff - ------- Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://home.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm On Mon, 11 May 1998 17:44:00 -0400 "Thomas Gatliff" writes: > >Hello, > >I am new to the whole KR2 thing and was wondering if someone would >possible >mind in taking me up in a KR2 to get some experience in one. I would >be >more than happy to compensate anyone for their help. I currently have >about >125 hours in primarily C150 and C172's and I also just started my >taildragging in a Super Cub. I live in Macon, Georgia, which is about >1 >hour from Atlanta, Georgia. Although, It would be nice if I could >find >someone in Atlanta, I would be willing to go almost anywhere to get >the >chance to fly one. > >All Comments Greatly Appreciated! > >Thomas Gatliff >gatliff@mindspring.com >(912) 745-7862 > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V2 #79 ****************************