From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Monday, August 10, 1998 9:32 PM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #135 krnet-l-digest Monday, August 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 135 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 17:12:03 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: KR: Flying to Perry? Have not yet. TBD if I will by September. Ron At 04:14 PM 8/4/98 -0700, you wrote: >Ron are you flying your KR this year? > >-- >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >Micheal Mims >SP290,.. Putting the engine back together again! >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >Irvine Ca >Fax 949.856.9417 >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 19:36:01 -0700 From: "Tom Kilgore" Subject: Re: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? I used 20cc syringes that I picked up at Sun&Fun. You can get even larger syringes at any feed store. They are used for livestock and come in several sizes and you can even get the needles too, if you want. I marked one for resin and the other for hardener to prevent mistakenly getting them mixed and end up with a solid syringe. I saw this tip was published in SportAviation a couple of years ago. Also I canceled my AOL account a while back and my web page is now gone. So if you have a link on your page it should be removed. I will have another one on Geocities soon and will let all know when it's ready. William T. (Tom) Kilgore Las Vegas, NV lvav8r@vegas.infi.net - ---------- > From: Ed Janssen > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: Re: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? > Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 3:12 PM > > Seems like it would be a little more accurate to mix by weight (grams would > be the easiest). It seems that the hardener is always a little thicker > than the resin, so when I squeeze them out of the container, it's a bit > hard to tell how much you got of each because the resin flows out on the > mixing surface at a faster rate. The weight ratio should be close to 5 > grams hardener (dark stuff) to 6 grams resin (light stuff). > > Ed Janssen > > At 08:06 AM 8/4/98 -0700, you wrote: > >HAshraf@aol.com wrote: > >> > >> Hi, > >> > >> By vol. the mix ratio is 50/50. I weighed same cups of both resin and > hardner > >> and found out the ratio by weight to be 46% dark stuff and 54% light > stuff. Is that correct? > >> > >> > > > >Don't mix it by weight and you will be just right! :o) > > > >-- > >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > >Micheal Mims > >SP290,.. Putting the engine back together again! > >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ > >Irvine Ca > >Fax 949.856.9417 > >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 22:41:22 EDT From: HAshraf@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: Re: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? In a message dated 98-08-04 03:45:39 EDT, you write: << Wicks lists the weight ratio as 100:83 >> Thanks Haris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 22:47:53 EDT From: HAshraf@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? In a message dated 98-08-04 18:16:26 EDT, you write: << Seems like it would be a little more accurate to mix by weight (grams would be the easiest). It seems that the hardener is always a little thicker than the resin, so when I squeeze them out of the container, it's a bit hard to tell how much you got of each because the resin flows out on the mixing surface at a faster rate. The weight ratio should be close to 5 grams hardener (dark stuff) to 6 grams resin (light stuff). Ed Janssen >> Shouldn't it be the other way round as dark stuff has higher density? Haris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 22:48:50 EDT From: HAshraf@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? In a message dated 98-08-04 18:16:26 EDT, you write: << Seems like it would be a little more accurate to mix by weight (grams would be the easiest). It seems that the hardener is always a little thicker than the resin, so when I squeeze them out of the container, it's a bit hard to tell how much you got of each because the resin flows out on the mixing surface at a faster rate. The weight ratio should be close to 5 grams hardener (dark stuff) to 6 grams resin (light stuff). Ed Janssen >> pls ignore my last post. I goofed up. Thanks Haris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:14:20 -0700 From: Peter Hudson Subject: Re: KR: Tailspring KR2616TJ@aol.com wrote: Dana, Mike (and the rest of you lot!) Thanks for the info. That was me asking. I've been looking at a lot of tailwheels lately so I'll pass on how my thoughts have run so everyone can poke fun at my opinions ;) A local guys Avid Flyer had a Maule tail wheel assy and a single spring similar the the one in A.S.S. only not as long. The more I look at the full swivel thing the more I think I want it. You don't have to worry as much about turning around at the end of the runway (My local field requires it!) I'd hate to have to get out and swing the tail around every time. I like that it has a positive lock for steering (as would one with out the swivel mechanism) as opposed to the "free pivot or locked straight" one sometimes sees. His spring seemed a little short and too springy The single leaf 45 deg spring is taller than I want. the total height of about 10 inches is tall enough to prevent near full stall landings with my KR-2 (no S) and the R.R. aluminum spring bar (only about 6" taller than the original retracts). I plan to use the glass spring ala Dragonfly but with a welded steel attachment for it to plug into at the tailwheel block on the fuselage. The "homebuilders tailwheel assy" in A.S.S. can be ordered with the fitting designed for a 10 deg 5/8" rod which would work nicely with it and give me a total height of about 7 inches which is what I was targeting. I plan to do a drop test of the set up before ptting it on the plane. It looks like about 13" will simulate a 8.5 ft/sec decent which is near what the FARs would want to see. (thats with about 83 lbs on it to simulate 1100 lb gross/aft CG worst case limit load). Okay fire away! - -Peter Hudson- > Someone asked about the height of the tail using the AS&S tailspring and > tailwheel that Mike has a picture of on his webpage. I just installed mine > and the bottom of the fuselage is 9 3/4" off the ground. > Dana Overall ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 23:01:21 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: Tailspring Peter, The taller tail spring will not keep you from stalling the plane. You will just touch down tail first and the mains will gently float on as the angle of attack decreases. That's how I do it (when I do it right) :o) with my KR. I do have the AS&S homebuilder's tailwheel spring and tailwheel, except that I have the larger 6" tailwheel option as well. Don't be afraid of having a tall tail spring. It won't hurt your takeoff or landing performance. I love having the full swivel tailwheel. I spin it around at the end of the runway and feel for the tailwheel to lock back in before takeoff. After landing I pull up in front of the hanger and push the plane back into the hanger. It's put away about 45 seconds after I climb out of the cockpit. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kjeffs.html http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm On Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:14:20 -0700 Peter Hudson writes: >KR2616TJ@aol.com wrote: > >Dana, Mike (and the rest of you lot!) > >Thanks for the info. That was me asking. I've been looking at a lot of >tailwheels lately so I'll pass on how my thoughts have run so everyone >can poke fun at my opinions ;) > >A local guys Avid Flyer had a Maule tail wheel assy and a single spring >similar the the one in A.S.S. only not as long. The more I look at the >full swivel thing the more I think I want it. You don't have to worry >as much about turning around at the end of the runway (My local field >requires it!) I'd hate to have to get out and swing the tail around >every time. I like that it has a positive lock for steering (as would >one with out the swivel mechanism) as opposed to the "free pivot or >locked straight" one sometimes sees. His spring seemed a little short >and too springy > >The single leaf 45 deg spring is taller than I want. the total height of >about 10 inches is tall enough to prevent near full stall landings with >my KR-2 (no S) and the R.R. aluminum spring bar (only about 6" taller >than the original retracts). > >I plan to use the glass spring ala Dragonfly but with a welded steel >attachment for it to plug into at the tailwheel block on the fuselage. > >The "homebuilders tailwheel assy" in A.S.S. can be ordered with the >fitting designed for a 10 deg 5/8" rod which would work nicely with it >and give me a total height of about 7 inches which is what I was >targeting. > >I plan to do a drop test of the set up before ptting it on the plane. >It looks like about 13" will simulate a 8.5 ft/sec decent which is near >what the FARs would want to see. (thats with about 83 lbs on it to >simulate 1100 lb gross/aft CG worst case limit load). > >Okay fire away! > >-Peter Hudson- > >> Someone asked about the height of the tail using the AS&S tailspring and >> tailwheel that Mike has a picture of on his webpage. I just installed mine >> and the bottom of the fuselage is 9 3/4" off the ground. >> Dana Overall > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 02:09:43 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: FW: tailwheel number and manufacturer TailHeads, Being a born cheapskate, I asked Mike Mims (and later Dana) for the info on the label on the wonderful tailwheels that you guys keep talking about and saved $55. I ordered one (the 20 degree version) for $169 direct from the manufacturer, whose name and phone number are in the following post from Dana: - ---------------- Seems to me that Mike said somewhere that you could buy it from the manufacturer. The sticker on the side lists the company as Aviation Products, Inc. 805 646-6042. The one I bought is the 45 degree, 4" wheel and uses a 1-1/4 or 1-1/2" flat spring. If you don't want the tail as high as mine (9 3/4"), they make it with 20 degree of angle. AS&S sells it for $223.00 for comparison. - --------------- The 20 and 45 degee stuff refers to the angle (from horizontal) of the spring that you're mounting to. The GOP (guy on phone) said you want the axis vertical. mailto:langford@hiwaay.net KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 00:46:09 -0700 From: "Martin Mulvey" Subject: KR: Re: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? Hi Haris, 50:50 by volume is OK. The weight will be different. The ratio has worked for me (and those I know using the product) for as long as I've been using it. All the best! Marty - -----Original Message----- From: HAshraf@aol.com To: krnet-l@teleport.com Date: 03 August, 1998 21:23 Subject: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? >Hi, > >By vol. the mix ratio is 50/50. I weighed same cups of both resin and hardner >and found out the ratio by weight to be 46% dark stuff and 54% light stuff. Is >that correct? > >Haris > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 09:05:25 -0700 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: Just Blabbing Micheal Mims wrote: > > > > If it flies before Mar 1999 it will have been almost 3 years from start > to first flight. Considering I did very little during the summer months > (June - Aug) thats not too bad. I think if a guy could work on it year > around and put in a good 18 hours a week this is about a 2 year project, > that comes out to a little over 1800 hours. > -- > Funny you should mention that. I had too much time on my hands a while back and added up all my building hours. Here's what I got. Finishing-366 Wings and stubs-194 Engine-270 Building boat-155 Tail-135 Spars-81 Controls-64 Instruments and wiring-64 Front deck\inst. panel-60 Canopy-59 Cowl-51 Gear\Wheels\Brakes-38 Fuel tank-36 Wheel pants-32 Making metal pieces-26 Interior-15 Aft deck-14 Misc.-10 This totals 1670 hours, although there were another 130 hours I could not classify. Total 1800 hours over 22 mo. I think you figured just about right. Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 08:08:30 -0500 From: Ed Janssen Subject: Re: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? Yes, the syringes work accurately for mixing by volume - lots of homebuilders have used them for many years. You will find a whole range of sizes at farm stores. However, I seem to end up with a sticky mess on my fingers and resin containers (few drips here and there eventually) after a few times of unscrewing the epoxy container, slurping up the resin, transferring the resin to the mixing surface and then replacing the cap on the container. When building ribs for a Mini-Max, I only needed to mix an amount equal to about the size of a quarter, so it was much more convenient to use one step -squeeze some out of the bottles. Some science supply houses sell tiny graduated plastic cups - less than the size of a shotglass - which would also be real handy for volume mixing. Ed Janssen At 07:36 PM 8/4/98 -0700, you wrote: > I used 20cc syringes that I picked up at Sun&Fun. You can get even >larger syringes at any feed store. They are used for livestock and come in >several sizes and you can even get the needles too, if you want. I marked >one for resin and the other for hardener to prevent mistakenly getting them >mixed and end up with a solid syringe. I saw this tip was published in >SportAviation a couple of years ago. > Also I canceled my AOL account a while back and my web page is now >gone. So if you have a link on your page it should be removed. I will have >another one on Geocities soon and will let all know when it's ready. > >William T. (Tom) Kilgore >Las Vegas, NV >lvav8r@vegas.infi.net > > >---------- >> From: Ed Janssen >> To: krnet-l@teleport.com >> Subject: Re: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? >> Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 3:12 PM >> >> Seems like it would be a little more accurate to mix by weight (grams >would >> be the easiest). It seems that the hardener is always a little thicker >> than the resin, so when I squeeze them out of the container, it's a bit >> hard to tell how much you got of each because the resin flows out on the >> mixing surface at a faster rate. The weight ratio should be close to 5 >> grams hardener (dark stuff) to 6 grams resin (light stuff). >> >> Ed Janssen >> >> At 08:06 AM 8/4/98 -0700, you wrote: >> >HAshraf@aol.com wrote: >> >> >> >> Hi, >> >> >> >> By vol. the mix ratio is 50/50. I weighed same cups of both resin and >> hardner >> >> and found out the ratio by weight to be 46% dark stuff and 54% light >> stuff. Is that correct? >> >> >> >> >> > >> >Don't mix it by weight and you will be just right! :o) >> > >> >-- >> >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >> >Micheal Mims >> >SP290,.. Putting the engine back together again! >> >mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net >> >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >> >Irvine Ca >> >Fax 949.856.9417 >> >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 20:14:01 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: hydraulic brake how does the azusa over heat from braking? steve ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 21:56:05 -0700 From: Peter Hudson Subject: Re: KR: Just Blabbing Tom Crawford wrote: > > Funny you should mention that. I had too much time on my hands a while > back and added up all my building hours. Here's what I got. Great info Tom, It will be helpful for planning the rest of my project. The times look similar to what I've spent (though I haven't tallied all of them.) The last one I checked and remember was 200 hours building the outer wing panels and 100 hours filling/sanding/painting them. Was the 270 hours on the engine including engine build up? or just firewall forward installation time? - -Peter- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 21:59:08 -0700 From: Peter Hudson Subject: Re: KR: Tailspring Jeffrey E Scott wrote: > > Peter, > > The taller tail spring will not keep you from stalling the plane. You > will just touch down tail first and the mains will gently float on as the > angle of attack decreases. That's how I do it (when I do it right) :o) Point well taken. I was just going off some older design text guidelines. I think over the nose visibility is at least as important so maybe I will go with a taller set up (or at least split the difference ;). - -Peter- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 01:18:45 EDT From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael Taglieri) Subject: KR: Kitplanes on Engine Failure The "Wind Tunnel" column in the 9/98 Kitplanes has a section comparing the reasons why certified and uncertified engines tend to fail, and it's fascinating reading. Apparently uncertified 4-strokes have hardly more mechanical failure than certified (17% vs. 12%) and almost the same failure from mechanic-error (17% vs. 14%). However, the uncertifieds have more carb failure (8% vs. 3%) and vastly more ignition failure (17% vs. 4%). Also, 13% of uncertified-engine failures are caused by PSRU units, and the largest cause of faulure for both kinds is the fuel system (20% on uncertified, 43% (!!!) on certified). This suggests to me that a dual ignition, a tried-and-true carb and a reliable fuel system, and a direct-drive without PSRU will go a long way to ensure reliability, and may be a lot more important than a certified engine. VW's and gravity-feed are looking better and better.... Mike Taglieri - ------------------------------------------------ 'Mine goes up to 11' - ------------------------------------------------ _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 01:26:26 EDT From: HAshraf@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: T-88 epoxy mix ratio (by weight)? In a message dated 98-08-05 09:11:53 EDT, you write: << Some science supply houses sell tiny graduated plastic cups - less than the size of a shotglass - which would also be real handy for volume mixing. >> DuBro (of model airplane fame) has small graduated cups. These could be found at model airplane shops. Haris ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 08:24:44 -0700 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: Just Blabbing Peter Hudson wrote: > > Tom Crawford wrote: > > > > Funny you should mention that. I had too much time on my hands a while > > back and added up all my building hours. Here's what I got. > > Great info Tom, > > It will be helpful for planning the rest of my project. The times look > similar to what I've spent (though I haven't tallied all of them.) The > last one I checked and remember was 200 hours building the outer wing > panels and 100 hours filling/sanding/painting them. > > Was the 270 hours on the engine including engine build up? or just > firewall forward installation time? > > -Peter- 270 hours on the engine includes pulling it out of the donor bus, tearing it down, reassembling it with the proper parts, and installation into the airplane. Also includes things like welding up the exhaust and intake manifold, making baffles, etc. Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Aug 98 11:02:09 CST From: "dboll" Subject: KR: unsubscribe unsubscribe ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 02:02:03 EDT From: BSHADR@aol.com Subject: KR: Revmaster for sale KRNetters: Thought this may be of interest to someone. Randy Stein mailto: BSHADR@aol.com <> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:17:06 EDT From: Kr2dream@aol.com Subject: KR: oshkosh For those of you looking for Jeanette Rand at Oshkosh - she was not there. She cancelled her booth shortly after Sun-N-Fun because of the increased expenses involved. KR brochures were handed out at Mitchell's booth and at Ken Brock's booth for her. Bob Lasecki Still building in Chicago. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 17:56:46 -0700 From: Tom Stokes Subject: Re: KR: Perry ??? I will be arriving at OKC on a Delta flight at 8:06 PM on Thursday 17 Sept and taking a rental car to Perry if anyone needs a ride to Perry. I have reservations at the Best Western. Tom Stokes at Reno NV Keith wrote: > > I've looked through all the Email and can't find the Date - When dates are > we all meeting at Perry? - Which airport? I'm from OKC,OK so I don't want > to miss it! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:09:17 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: Kitplanes on Engine Failure biased, I heartly agree. steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:18:17 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines what kind of ignition problem did you have? steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:19:53 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines something sounds amiss. cast pistons are lighter than forged. steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:21:57 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines if a vw case last 1000 hours, what does one have to complain about. on n4dd i believe it was about what 10 or so better years of flying? steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:23:12 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines current cases are from brazil and the quality is great. A lot of misinformation is on the web. steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:26:52 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: Oshkosh Update booth space at oshkosh is about 1800.00 sun & fun is 850.00 steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:27:56 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: Oshkosh Update I was there all week. where was a KR booth? steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 19:28:56 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines we have not had the come and build it program since 1995. steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 01:24:45 EDT From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael Taglieri) Subject: KR: Kitplanes on Engine Failure The "Wind Tunnel" column in the 9/98 Kitplanes has a section comparing the reasons why certified and uncertified engines tend to fail, and it's fascinating reading. Apparently uncertified 4-strokes have hardly more mechanical failure than certified (17% vs. 12%) and almost the same failure from mechanic-error (17% vs. 14%). However, the uncertifieds have more carb failure (8% vs. 3%) and vastly more ignition failure (17% vs. 4%). Also, 13% of uncertified-engine failures are caused by PSRU units, and the largest cause of faulure for both kinds is the fuel system (20% on uncertified, 43% (!!!) on certified). This suggests to me that a dual ignition, a tried-and-true carb and a reliable fuel system, and a direct-drive without PSRU will go a long way to ensure reliability, and may be a lot more important than a certified engine. VW's and gravity-feed are looking better and better.... Mike Taglieri - ------------------------------------------------ 'Mine goes up to 11' - ------------------------------------------------ _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 20:25:39 -0500 From: N4DD Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines Great Plains Aircraft wrote: > > if a vw case last 1000 hours, what does one have to complain about. on > n4dd i believe it was about what 10 or so better years of flying? steve Thats the point I was trying to make. It seems to be a time or cycle related stress crack. Thats why I recomend a new case over one from a salvage. I have never seen one develope to a full blown case failure. Have you Steve? Jean N4DD ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 12:17:40 +0200 From: Kobus de Wet Subject: KR: Progress report KR-2 ZS-WPX Yesterday, Saturday 08/08/98 I transported the KR by road to the airfield and assembled her. This exercise took me until last light so nothing else was done. This morning (It's winter here) I was at the field at 08h00, after checking everything once again I started the VW and she responded with very uneven running and misfiring, after about 15 minutes the engine cleared herself and all systems were GO. The first few slow taxing moments were not as hectic as I was lead to believe it would be and it appears that with only a few hours of taxing I will master this aswell. I intend doing some more taxing this afternoon and tomorrow. I will keep you guys posted on the progress. Kobus de Wet Cape Town, South Africa GMT + 2.00 http://home.intekom.com/kobusdw/ Kobus de Wet Cape Town, South Africa GMT + 2.00 http://home.intekom.com/kobusdw/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 10:59:19 -0500 From: robert k adams Subject: KR: unsubscribe hello please unsubscribe me as i have sold my kr. thank you bob adams mistic@vci.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 20:39:21 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: Unexplained RPM Drop After a bit of a lapse, I have started taxiing 133RM again. I noticed a leak by the left tire Thursday night which turned out to be brake fluid. Seems with my big feet and shoes on I was riding the brakes a lot. The heat finally got to it and it popped loose. It was fixed yesterday. Today I wrapped a heat resistant material around the lines then went taxiing....sans shoes. Now I can press on the lower part of the pedal. After several runs...not fast enough to get the tail up yet...I taxied back and checked the brakes. Reasonably cool compared to a few days ago so that problem is resolved. Doing a run-up I noticed that the RPM dropped (engine almost died) at around 3000 RPM. I believe it is a RevFlo carbureter (sp) on a VW 2180. Anyone have a suggestion as to the possible cause? Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:27:36 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: RE: Unexplained RPM Drop Ron Lee wrote: > Doing a run-up I noticed that the RPM dropped (engine almost died) at > around 3000 RPM. I believe it is a RevFlo carbureter (sp) on a VW 2180. > Anyone have a suggestion as to the possible cause? Ron, Jim Hill is having a similar problem with his new RevFlow. When I left him yesterday he was in the midst of a series of mixture screw adjustments. It's fairly simple. But it sounds like what you may be experiencing. With his, a change in throttle setting messes up the mixture. If you jockey them both around at the same time, you can keep it from quitting. Sounds like the basic adjustment is out of whack. No way would I fly something that touchy. I'd hope that only by pulling the mixture all the way out could you make it die. I can copy the mixture adjustment instructions (about a paragraph) and post them next weekend when I see Jim again. Mark Langford mailto:langford@hiwaay.net KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 21:37:44 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: RE: Unexplained RPM Drop At 10:27 PM 8/9/98 -0500, you wrote: I can copy the mixture adjustment instructions (about a paragraph) and post them next weekend when I see Jim again. > If you go to the bottom of: http://a51.wetworks.org/mims/mike.html you will find links to all 6 pages of the Revflo manual. Ron did you make any changes to the carb setup from when Roy flew it? zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,..Putting the engine back together now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 949.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:26:53 -0400 From: jerry Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines Steve Hi, do you know if the vw block #AE399838 for aircraft conversion? I took it out of a 71 vw bug. I have rexs book but i dont see a listing in it for that block. Thank You Jerry Great Plains Aircraft wrote: > current cases are from brazil and the quality is great. A lot of > misinformation is on the web. steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:20:02 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Weigh-In Well the bad news is in. I hung my wings on my KR for a preliminary weight & balance. No ailerons or flaps, and no prop or rudder. But everything else. The weights are rough, and I haven't taken an average of the scales. Note also that bathroom scales were used, and they are not too accurate when they approach their upper limit... that said.. Left Main 289# Right Main 300# Tail 6# - ------------------ 595# I was hoping for somthing closer to 550# given the Kevlar top deck. At any rate, I'm below 600# for the moment. I believe the prop, rudder Ailerons will add about 10# so the empty weight will be just over 600# I think. Oh, I forgot the ELT & Fire extinghisher. Maybe 620#. This isn't too bad as far as KR's go, but is about 50# more than I wanted my empty weight to be. Amazing how it all adds up. By the way, I have one wing striped and painted, one more to stripe, and put clearcoat on. However, I still have a rather large list of To-Do's to finish before calling a DAR. Won't make it to Perry in the KR, so I had to book airline tickets. One of the things to do, is complete the Cowling. The darn thing was left off the firewall and has "shrunk" a bit, making it a real pain to re-install. Also my cam-lock fastener locations are all hosed. I'm considering bagging the cowling project and buying a RR cowling just to be done with this. Hopefully cooler heads will prevail, and I will be happily sanding it this weekend. I did't measure datum line information so I will have to re-weigh the plane again and get this data, so that I can decide if my ELT will go behind or in-front of the seat. Another task left for coming weekends. I have a new photo to put on the web today, so everyone can see what my bird looks like with a painted wing on board. - -- Regards Ross - -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@San-Jose.tt.slb.com ------------------------------ Date: From: Subject: [none] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 16:13:08 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: VW Engines only when a valve is dropped. steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 17:10:49 -0500 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: Unexplained RPM Drop At 08:39 PM 8/9/98 -0600, you wrote: >After a bit of a lapse, I have started taxiing 133RM again. > > >Doing a run-up I noticed that the RPM dropped (engine almost died) at >around 3000 RPM. I believe it is a RevFlo carbureter (sp) on a VW 2180. >Anyone have a suggestion as to the possible cause? > >Ron Lee > > Ron, Tell me more. Your RevFlo carb is like my Posa carb. Once it is adjusted correctly, it just stays adjusted. The trick is to get it adjusted to run with the correct mixture from idle to full trottle. When was the last time you run your engine to 3000 rpm? Did you run your engine up to 3000rpm and hold it? How long? Was it blowing smoke out the exhaust? If so, what color? Is this the only time something like this has happened? Have you ever checked the fuel flow the carburator? It should be at least 6 gallons/hour or 1 gallon in 10 minutes.... Also, check any fuel filters and fuel lines for contamination. You may have some water in your tank unless your have been keeping the tank full at all times. It is less likely for condension built-up in a full tank than one that is say half-full. Another possiblity is the mag system but I would check the fuel delivery system first. What kind of spark/mag system do you have? Bobby Muse mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 98 10:22:05 CST From: "dboll" Subject: KR: unsubscribe unsubscribe dboll@ndak.net thanks ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:26:33 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: Unexplained RPM Drop...Explained? Ron Lee wrote: > Doing a run-up I noticed that the RPM dropped (engine almost died) at around 3000 RPM. I believe it is a RevFlo carbureter (sp) on a VW 2180. Anyone have a suggestion as to the possible cause? Thanks for the hints folks. Tonight after my taxi runs I again got the RPM but had the mixture richer. I was able to get about 3100 RPM before the brakes started to slip. I believe the answer is due to the turbo. Since I lean to taxi to avoid fouling the plugs, as I raise the RPM and the turbo starts to throw more air in, it is like leaning the mixture even more until it starts to die. Will try to verify all this with the plane tied down to my truck so the brake slipping is not a problem. But it all seems logical and was just operator error. Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:34:11 -0600 From: Ron Lee Subject: KR: Question for you taildragger pilots This should be easy for many of you. 133RM has the tailwheel arms directly tied to the rudder cable (via another cable). In other words, there is no slack or spring between the cable and the tailwheel control arm. The result is that every rudder movement acts on the tailwheel. It is my impression that this makes control during taxi runs somewhat twitchy. Is this likely correct and would putting a spring (both sides) or slack in the tailwheel cables make it less sensitive? Elaboration on amount of slack or specifics on the strength of a spring are welcome. Ron Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:08:00 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: Unexplained RPM Drop...Explained? Wednesday's Headlines in Colorado Spring Newspaper. "Man Makes first flight with Truck Tied on Behind!" Man, I can see it now. "Really, I was just tuning the carb. I didn't know I was airborne". :o) he he he! On Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:26:33 -0600 Ron Lee writes: > >Will try to verify all this with the plane tied down to my truck so the >brake slipping is not a problem. But it all seems logical and was just >operator error. > >Ron Lee > Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kjeffs.html http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:26:44 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: Question for you taildragger pilots Ron, I don't know if you noticed how much slack I had in the tailwheel cables and springs on my plane when I was up there this spring. They hang very slack as I don't want the tailwheel to start to steer until I have about 50% rudder in and then I want it to gently pull against a spring rather than yanking on the tailwheel. Most pilots like having things a bit tighter in the back then I do, but over the years I have found that this combination feels best for me. Yes, adding slack and/or extension springs will make the tailwheel steering less twitchy. I started out doing my slow taxi tests with them quite snug. I added several links into the pull chains to get it to where it handled on the ground the way I liked it. This is one of those things that you will find where everyone has their own preference. Some pilots like tight compression springs and taught cables. Others prefer mild extension springs and slack cables. Of course, my way is best. ;o) Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kjeffs.html http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm On Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:34:11 -0600 Ron Lee writes: >This should be easy for many of you. 133RM has the tailwheel arms >directly tied to the rudder cable (via another cable). In other words, >there is no slack or spring between the cable and the tailwheel control >arm. > >The result is that every rudder movement acts on the tailwheel. It is >my impression that this makes control during taxi runs somewhat >twitchy. > >Is this likely correct and would putting a spring (both sides) or slack >in the tailwheel cables make it less sensitive? Elaboration on amount >of slack or specifics on the strength of a spring are welcome. > >Ron Lee > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V2 #135 *****************************