From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 12:01 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: December 07, 1998 KR-net users group Digest for Monday, December 07, 1998. 1. Re: Help with Plywood 2. Re: Aluminum Brazing 3. Re: Belly board 4. flywheels 5. Re: Compu-Fire 6. Re: Piano Hinge 7. Re: Moving to NEW list server within 24 hours 8. RE: Need help with VW serial numbers 9. Re: Compu-Fire 10. Re: Compu-Fire 11. Re: Compu-Fire 12. Re: Help with Plywood 13. Re: Compu-Fire 14. Re: flywheels ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Help with Plywood From: 5253 Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 13:02:47 +0200 X-Message-Number: 1 Does anyone now how math and what kind of plywood I need for KR2S. My nearest place to buy it is Finland and as I now, Finnish Birth Plywood is very good. Thanks Johan Pender ------------------ GSM 372 5 048 958 GSM post 372 5 3048 958 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Aluminum Brazing From: "Richard Parker" Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 03:39:02 PST X-Message-Number: 2 I've used it and its pretty good stuff however I wouldnt trust it anywhere on an airplane other than a map holder. Only use it on stuff that you wouldnt care if it broke on takeoff or final approach. I would definately avoid using it on rudder pedals. Even if something broke off on the actual pedal it may get lodged in behind the rudder pedal arm and you are going to have a hard time fishing it out in flight. Remember that unusual attitude training? It will come in handy. Rich Parker >From: "Dean Collette" >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Aluminum Brazing >Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 17:31:04 -0600 >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" > >Does anybody know anything about brazing aluminum? > >I picked up these rods at Oshkosh this year called Cascade 401(?) You heat >the aluminum parts and rod with a propane torch and then let the stuff flow >into the joint, much like soldering. I have seen other aluminum brazing rods >at Home Depot, I'm almost sure it's the same stuff. > >In the few test pieces that I have tried, the stuff seems incredibly strong. >I wouldn't use it for anything structural, but it seems like the answer for >rudder pedals, etc. > >If anyone has any experience (especially long term) I would love to hear >about it. >Dean >mailto:drdean@execpc.com > > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Belly board From: "Richard Parker" Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 03:41:11 PST X-Message-Number: 3 I've seen it with holes. I beleive Mike mims has a diagram on his web page. Rich Parker richontheroad@hotmail.com http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm >From: DClarke351@aol.com >Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:17:00 EST >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Belly board >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" > >I installed a 34 x 6" alu belly board onto my KR2 with the hinge attached to >the rear of the rear spar. It has no holes drilled into it at this time. I >have not deployed it in the air. I did deploy it during a high speed taxi test >and it seemed to induce an ocillation (back & forth). Does the board need to >have the holes drilled into it and if so what size? Anyone know? Don Clarke, >El paso. > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: flywheels From: "Mark Langford" Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:20:37 -0000 X-Message-Number: 4 steve wrote: >would recommend a cut down flywheel 5" in dia. just to seal the rear >seal and take endplay. the less dynacmics on each end of the crank the >better. I guess you might have a point there. Under normal circumstances the flywheel acts as shock absorber (among other things) between the engine's power pulses and the load. In the case of a flywheel on one end and a prop on the OTHER end of the crank, the flywheel is holding one end of the crankshaft in smooth continuous rotation, while the prop and power pulses are vibrating the other end. It's unfortunate that the solution has to be reducing flywheel weight to the point of compromising engine longevity. That would be just one of the reasons why I never even considered running a prop off the pulley end... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Compu-Fire From: "Mark Langford" Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:25:58 -0000 X-Message-Number: 5 R. W. Moore wrote: >Where do you but the Compu-fire and what do it cost? I got mine three years ago for $165, but I'm sure they've gotten more expensive since then. I got mine direct from the manufacturer, but you'll see it advertised in Hot VWs magazine several times. I'll dig up a vendor and a pricefor you if you want. I originally bought mine for my KR, and installed it in the 2110cc Ghia for proof testing. I could never go back to a normal ignition system, so I'll have to buy another one for the plane. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Piano Hinge From: Ross Youngblood Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:18:29 -0800 X-Message-Number: 6 I used extruded piano hinge from Aircraft Spruce. It is $$$ for the 6' ailerons and not so bad for the 3' canopy. I don't recall the width. Go get a Wicks Catalog, I believe they have the part called out in the KR page in the front. Thats how I got the dimensions. -- Ross Kr2jm@aol.com wrote: > > What length, width and thickness piano hinge is used on the stock KR-2 > premolded > canopy frame? Also for the ailerons? > > Jim Morehead > kr2jm@aol.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Moving to NEW list server within 24 hours From: Ross Youngblood Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:21:40 -0800 X-Message-Number: 7 Mike, I have one account getting the index, and the other getting the entire messages... The index email gives you the first line of the email. So it's sorta risky... -- Ross Michael C. Taglieri wrote: > > >With the NEW kr-net service you can now CONTROL how much email > >you get every day. If you don't want ANY mail, go to the web server > >and tell it that is what you want.. you can still post to KRNET as > >a member. > > > >I have selected the "index" function for myself, kr-net will email > >me a list of the daily topics on KRNET, then I can go to the kr-net > >website and read only the ones I am interested in. > > Since so many threads change topic completely without changing the > subject line, this method seems a bit risky to me. > > Mike Taglieri > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: Need help with VW serial numbers From: Ross Youngblood Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:26:34 -0800 X-Message-Number: 8 Richard Parker wrote: > > Thanks. that was what I was afraid of. Those are too small for me. > > Rich Hello, but the 1600CC AE case is a type1, I think you can make this to 1835/2180 if you can align bore it to spec (assuming it even needs it). I bought an AE case for $125 a few years back and was going to make it into my 1835cc engine. > >> U0018708 installed engine > >> 0159192 engine in front seat > >> AE546735 extra case > >> F0613868 extra caseRichard, > > > >a U is a 1600cc is a type 1 rated at 65 hp with a compression ratio of > 7.7 > >not sure about the 015xxxx nunber, but I probably a 1500cc or 1600cc > type ! > >the AE is a 1600cc type 1 rated at 46 hp > >I think the F was a late 1500cc type 1, but I'm just guessing on this > one > > > >It could very well be from a bus, but buses had Type 1 engines thru > 1971. > >The Type 4 was put in buses in 1972. > > > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > >mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > >see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > > >--- > >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com > >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Compu-Fire From: Ross Youngblood Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:29:32 -0800 X-Message-Number: 9 I have a Compu-Fire, and the description of the distributor pick up sensor is accurate, it is about 1-1/2" tall. I threw away the Compu-Fire bracket and made some aluminum angle brackets, but this means you have to machine grooves in the heat sinks so that you can get the AN hardware in. The coil assembly has two connections one to the distributor sender, and the other to your tach, one black, one white. DO NOT GROUND THE BLACK WIRE.... unless you are running a 1/2 VW. I discovered this the hard way. At any rate, once I opened up that wire, I get a working TACH and all 4 jugs fire. -- Ross Mark Langford wrote: > > Jesse Klebsch wrote: > > > The one from great plains I believe is > > short enough, but is it a mini mag setup, points, or electronic > > ignition? > > Jesse, > > The Compu-Fire that GP sells only extends about half an inch above the top > of the distributor body. The rotor is removed so it's pretty short. It's a > magnetically triggered system whereby a signal is sent to a block of four > coils (mounted to the firewall) and each wire (and spark plug) has its own > coil. I have had one on my Karmann Ghia for about 3 years, and it's works > flawlessly. It's the only ignition I've seen that I can wash down the > engine at the car wash under high pressure, and it fires right up > afterwards. No points or other adjustments. Just drive it. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Compu-Fire From: Ross Youngblood Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:41:14 -0800 X-Message-Number: 10 > I thought these things had no advance of any kind. Do you get > satisfactory starting and performance using one on a VW automobile as the > only ignition? (Or is it the only ignition?) What do you set the timing > at? > > Mike Taglieri > The Compu-Fire uses the standard Bosch 009 distributor and so has the mechanical advance in this unit. (The curves are in TAB VW hot rod books). You time the engine (or at least I did mine) at 2500 RPM per the Great Plains info, which is actually the simliar to the auto spec. Memory says this was 23 or 28 BTDC but I wouldn't bet the farm on that. Does it start? Well my problem is that the Ellison Throttle Body needs a primer, and I haven't got my primer set up just right. If I blow some fuel down the throttle, it always starts the fisrt time and runs like a CHAMP! It even sounded great on two cylinders (when I grounded out the other two via the tach hook up.) -- Ross > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Compu-Fire From: Steve Bennett Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 18:00:15 -0600 X-Message-Number: 11 Mark Langford wrote: > > Steve Bennett wrote: > > > system is 1.5 inches tall, no advance. start on mag then turn on > > secondary. uses 2 coils each with 2 leads. steve > > > > I stand corrected. It's obviously not the same Compu-Fire model that I > have, but the description in the catalog sounded like it. Mine definitely > advances, but is closer to an inch tall thouigh, rather than the half inch I > mentioned previously. For those interested in the setup on my car, there's > a picture at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/98120614.jpg . > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: gpasc@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com the compu-fire sold by great plains uses a stock bosch 009 distributor with mechanical advance. the electronic secondary that is 1.5" tall that is made by us (great plains) does not have and advance. steve bennett great plains aircraft ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Help with Plywood From: Donald Reid Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:35:09 -0500 X-Message-Number: 12 5253 wrote: > > Does anyone now how math and what kind of plywood I need for KR2S. My > nearest place to buy it is Finland and as I now, Finnish Birth Plywood is > very good. You can use the birch for everything on a KR. Plans call for mahogany on the fuselage and birch everywhere else. A birch fuselage will be 2-3 pounds heavier, a bit more difficult to bend to shape, and a bit stronger. If the price is right, the birch can work fine. -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Compu-Fire From: "R.W. Moore" Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:58:40 -0500 X-Message-Number: 13 I sure would like to know what the cost is now. and where it can be bought. R. W. Moore N115RM -----Original Message----- From: Mark Langford To: KR-net users group Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 8:26 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Compu-Fire >R. W. Moore wrote: > >>Where do you but the Compu-fire and what do it cost? > >I got mine three years ago for $165, but I'm sure they've gotten more >expensive since then. I got mine direct from the manufacturer, but you'll >see it advertised in Hot VWs magazine several times. I'll dig up a vendor >and a pricefor you if you want. > > I originally bought mine for my KR, and installed it in the 2110cc Ghia for >proof testing. I could never go back to a normal ignition system, so I'll >have to buy another one for the plane. > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama >mailto:langford@hiwaay.net >see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: flywheels From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael C. Taglieri) Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 02:12:10 EST X-Message-Number: 14 >>would recommend a cut down flywheel 5" in dia. just to seal the rear >>seal and take endplay. the less dynacmics on each end of the crank >the >>better. > >I guess you might have a point there. Under normal circumstances the >flywheel acts as shock absorber (among other things) between the >engine's >power pulses and the load. In the case of a flywheel on one end and a >prop >on the OTHER end of the crank, the flywheel is holding one end of the >crankshaft in smooth continuous rotation, while the prop and power >pulses >are vibrating the other end. It's unfortunate that the solution has >to be >reducing flywheel weight to the point of compromising engine >longevity. >That would be just one of the reasons why I never even considered >running a >prop off the pulley end... Why would a lighter flywheel compromise engine longevity? I'd expect that the propeller already serves as a kind of flywheel, since it has rotating mass, so by eliminating the flywheel from the other end, you're decreasing the likelihood of crank breakage. However, I wish it were possible to run a starter on a VW from a flywheel behind the prop, like some other engines we know. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------------------------------- "May your life be full of lawyers" -- Mexican curse ------------------------------------------------------- ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com