From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998 12:01 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: December 10, 1998 KR-net users group Digest for Thursday, December 10, 1998. 1. What does yellow tag mean? 2. Re: KR-2S Spars 3. Re: Instrument cutouts/virtual toolbox 4. Re: Flapper valve? 5. Re: What does yellow tag mean? 6. COMPU-FIRE Install 7. Info on COMPU-FIRE 8. Re: KR-2S Spars 9. Tools List for Beginners ... 10. Re: Instrument cutouts/virtual toolbox 11. Re: prop and valve adjustments 12. Test, do not read! 13. RE: stick article 14. Test 15. Re: Tools List for Beginners ... 16. reece daniel kr2 17. Re: prop and valve adjustments 18. Re: KR-2S Spars 19. KRNet $$ 20. South African KRGuy ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: What does yellow tag mean? From: "Richard Parker" Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 03:22:55 PST X-Message-Number: 1 I've seen some parts offered for sale that say "with yellow tag" Does that mean they are certified or in spec? FYI. the aliasing to kr-net@teleport.com doesnt seem to be working yet. Rich Parker richontheroad@hotmail.com http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR-2S Spars From: "doug peyton" Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 05:41:33 PST X-Message-Number: 2 I think any small epoxied wooden box could easily withstand the pressure differential of 10,000 feet or so, but since the KR plans require venting the chambers in the wings, I would also go ahead and vent the chambers in the spars. A small hole drilled and varnished in each webbed chamber shouldn't reduce overall strength. >Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:38:49 -0500 >To: "KR-net users group" >From: Olga Saunders >Subject: [kr-net] KR-2S Spars >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" > >As per a suggestion by an engineer at RR, I covered both sides of my spars >with a shear web. My question is this, do the closed in spaces inside the >spar box need to ventilated ? I've heard of similiar closed in air pockets >causing delamination at altitude with glass layups. > >Mike Saunders > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: doug_peyton@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Instrument cutouts/virtual toolbox From: "doug peyton" Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 05:58:25 PST X-Message-Number: 3 I cut my holes by sadwiching the aluminum between two sheets of plywood and a flat-head bolt going through the middle. I used two new sheets of plywood for each hole, The plywood pieces were about a foot square. I used a jig saw just inside the line, and then used a rotary grinder to carefully but easily take them out to the correct diameter. >From: "Oscar Zuniga" >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Instrument cutouts/virtual toolbox >Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 05:33:45 PST >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" > >Hello, netters > >I was looking at the knockout tool that is available for making >instrument hole cutouts (reversible, 2-1/4" to 3-1/8") as well as the >little jig thing for drilling the mounting holes. Together, the two >items are quite a few bucks for a one-shot job. There are other >specialized tools used in the construction of a KR, possibly like a good >Nicopre*s tool, so I was wondering if any kind of "virtual toolbox" idea >has ever been discussed here. Between any 10 or so KRNetters, this >stuff would be affordable, and then these specialized tools could be >placed in circulation in a "KRNet Virtual Toolbox". Maybe a separate >page on the krnet.org webpage could be used for keeping track of who has >what, or checking out a tool. > >I know it could get to be a mess, with tools getting lost and broken, >but just a thought. Any comments? Anybody want to go in with me on the >hole punch and drilling die? ;o) Post privately... > >Oscar Zuniga >Medford, Oregon > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: doug_peyton@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Flapper valve? From: "doug peyton" Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 06:09:06 PST X-Message-Number: 4 Tony Bingelas' book, "Sportplane Builder" has an excellent detail on constructing this thing for a variety of applications. >Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 17:42:45 -0600 >To: "KR-net users group" >From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) >Subject: [kr-net] Flapper valve? >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" > >Netters, > >I'm looking for a small flapper-type valve that would accept about an 1-1/2 >flexible tubing, for cabin heat control application. Got any ideas? > >Ed Janssen > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: doug_peyton@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: What does yellow tag mean? From: Kr2dream@aol.com Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:01:02 EST X-Message-Number: 5 "yellow tag" means that the parts are airworthy and have been inspected/tested by a certified instrument repair shop. These are legal parts which can be installed on certificated aircraft. Bob Lasecki Chicago ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: COMPU-FIRE Install From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:26:41 -0800 X-Message-Number: 6 Here are my COMPU-FIRE installation notes. My engine runs fine so far, but I haven't done taxi testing yet. -- Ross R.W. Moore wrote: > > Where do you but the Compu-fire and what do it cost? > R. W. Moore > N115RM The Compu-Fire will set you back about $265-285 somthing like that. They sell a cheaper unit around $95 but I don't know much about it. The coils are a single unit, each coil fires two cylinders, the unit is sealed and has a heat sink. The unit is designed for aftermarket VW's and is supposed to be mounted on the side of the blower shroud. I mounted mine on the firewall fins vertical. I ditched the supplied bracket and went with a lighter aluminum unit, which required that I machine the heat sink to allow AN3 bolts to be passed through the holes. (The holes are tapped and threaded, but I wanted AN locking hardware). The timing pickup is a hall-effect unit (no moving parts) and a magnetic rotor cap that replaces the standard VW roter and distributor. You don't have a coil high-tension lead, just for leads from each plug to the COMPU-FIRE. Each coil is spec-ed at 6A, and if you leave the ignition on while stopped, they indicate that you could have BOTH coils hot so the current drain is 12A, I have a 15A circuit breaker to my compu-fire. Power is through a single hot lead to the coil unit. The coil unit has two small molex like connectors one for a tach adaptor unit, and another for the distributor hall effect sendor. There is one magnet in the rotor for each cylinder. If you are mounting the COMPU-FIRE on the firewall you should buy the extender cable from COMPU-FIRE (or Steve may sell it). This will prevent you from having to splice an extra length of cable into the unit to reach from the firewall to the distributor. I like the elegent engineering of the unit. However, I would put a dab of Silicone sealent around the top of the DIST sendor to stress releave the wiring going to this unit. I have some fatigue here and bought a new distributor sender unit to swap out after I have done some taxi testing. Some of the insulation has pulled out of the potted area... -- Regards Ross -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Info on COMPU-FIRE From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:27:13 -0800 X-Message-Number: 7 COMPU-FIRE has a web site, but if you do a web search you will only find some VW and Harley applications for their products. They are engine electronics Inc in Southern California. However the web site doesn't have much in the way of info, your best bet would be Steve Bennetts catalog or a couple of HOT VW back issues. However the HOT VW suppliers don't mention the distributor extension kit and or the tach adaptor wiring kit, which you may need if you want to use a Tach, or mount the unit on the firewall. Ask for these if you call a VW supplier, they may be able to get them for you, or you can contact Engine Electronics. (Sorry I don't have the phone #) -- Regards Ross Mark Langford wrote: > > R. W. Moore wrote: > > >Where do you but the Compu-fire and what do it cost? -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR-2S Spars From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:05:54 -0800 X-Message-Number: 8 Mike, My Tech counselor said YES be sure to vent these box spars. Drill a small hole in the webbing. -- Regards Ross Olga Saunders wrote: > > As per a suggestion by an engineer at RR, I covered both sides of my spars > with a shear web. My question is this, do the closed in spaces inside the > spar box need to ventilated ? I've heard of similiar closed in air pockets > causing delamination at altitude with glass layups. > > Mike Saunders > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Tools List for Beginners ... From: "Albert Pecoraro" Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:26:53 EST X-Message-Number: 9 Netters, I am preparing to start my KR2-S project and I am taking an inventory of the (basic) tools required for the project. The main concern I have is with clamps: how many different types of clamps and how many of each type should I have at my disposal (i.e. C-clamp, Spring, Long-bar, Vise, etc)? I am using the list in the info-pack as a general guideline but I would like to have a more detailed and enumerated list. I don't want to be caught in a situation where I'm halfway through gluing members together and I turn around to reach for a clamp and end up with a handful of air! ;-) Nor do I want to go on a silly spree and buy more than I adequately need. I want to keep the project "economical" but not sacrifice "quality", if you catch my drift. ;-) I have seen some photos of people using cement bags & sand-filled plastic bottles for the application of weight during certain phases of construction ... I think that is clever, so I think I'm going to do that also (very economical!) If anyone knows of a Tools List that may have circulated in the past or if anyone can offer suggestions on my "Clamp" concern I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance! Albert Pecoraro ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Instrument cutouts/virtual toolbox From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:24:56 -0800 X-Message-Number: 10 Oscar, I like this idea... I tried it with our local EAA chapter, and most folks are reluctant to loan out tools, but once they get to know you things get better. I have one of the cheap nicopress tools, but it would be nice to have a GOOD nicopress tool. I don't think I have time as list admin to manage a tool crib, but if we came up with a way to keep it self funded... that is to GROW the tools and have $$$ for replacements. I would be willing to pitch in some $. -- Ross Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > Hello, netters > > I was looking at the knockout tool that is available for making > instrument hole cutouts (reversible, 2-1/4" to 3-1/8") as well as the > little jig thing for drilling the mounting holes. Together, the two > items are quite a few bucks for a one-shot job. There are other > specialized tools used in the construction of a KR, possibly like a good > Nicopre*s tool, so I was wondering if any kind of "virtual toolbox" idea > has ever been discussed here. Between any 10 or so KRNetters, this > stuff would be affordable, and then these specialized tools could be > placed in circulation in a "KRNet Virtual Toolbox". Maybe a separate > page on the krnet.org webpage could be used for keeping track of who has > what, or checking out a tool. > > I know it could get to be a mess, with tools getting lost and broken, > but just a thought. Any comments? Anybody want to go in with me on the > hole punch and drilling die? ;o) Post privately... > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, Oregon > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: prop and valve adjustments From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:28:53 -0800 X-Message-Number: 11 Jesse, Buy Steve Bennetts book for about $10 or so, it will have your VW tune up specs in it. I have this, and also cross checked it with the VW manual. As I recall the VW manual and the book agree for the most part. I believe the rocker arm clearance is set COLD and is around .07-.08mm or somthing like that... Someone please confirm this stuff as I don't have my VW stuff here... it's at the hangar. My memory thinks that the prop torque was discussed here a while back and 12# was the number that sticks in my mind. Again, this is somthing I put in my propellor log then promptly forgot. I wouldn't bet the farm on this. If no-one posts the correct answer, I will run out to the hangar and look them up. -- Regards Ross Jesse Klebsch wrote: > > Can anyone tell me how much to torque the wooden prop on my KR, it > doesn't have a name, only the size written on it. > > Also, the rocker arms are adjustable and the lifters are hydraulic on my > 1835 vw, how are they supposed to be set? Please forgive my ignorance > as i'm rather new at this. > > Thanks, > Jesse Klebsch > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@saber.slb.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (800)SKY-PAGE PIN#895-9073 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (541)714-1754 Corvallis,Oregon mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Test, do not read! From: Mike Mims Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:11:37 -0800 X-Message-Number: 12 Test of new address -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290 (Sky Pig 290) ,..Building Cowling now mailto:mikemims@home.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Aliso Viejo Ca ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: stick article From: "Mark Langford" Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:35:01 -0600 X-Message-Number: 13 I posted these URLs yesterday, and they somehow got screwed up on the way to the server. They're crystal clear now, however, and worth the download time... http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/stick1.gif and http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/stick2.gif Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Test From: Mike Mims Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:01:07 -0800 X-Message-Number: 14 Test -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290 (Sky Pig 290) ,..Building Cowling now mailto:mikemims@home.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Aliso Viejo Ca ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tools List for Beginners ... From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:28:04 EST X-Message-Number: 15 Albert, You can never have too much clamps. That being said I share with you my experience. I am 75% done with the boat and have planned out my spars. My inventory of clamps is as follows. C-Clamps Type Number 1.5" 8 2" 6 3" 2 Bar clamps: Similar to Jorgenson clamps but cooler looking (and too expensive to be worth it) with yellow plastic cover over jaws. Type Number 6" 2 8" 2 12" 2 36" 2 (used only one. one is still packed) Spring clamps (all plastic) Type Number 2" 4 ($1.98 at Home depot) 3" 6 ($4.95 at sears) Spring clamps (metal with plastic tips) 2" 12 (really cheap $0.50 from 'Tool Man' at Sun&Fun. I wish I had bought more) Then, I bought some 3/8" threaded rod and hard wood (Oak) and made some myself. I already had a tap and a matching drill. These are: 36" 2 24" 4 (can be used as two 48" clamps with a coupler) 12" 4 I also use assorted carriage bolts and regular bolts to fasten stuff together with 2x2 wood pieces. I stapled all the skins and they came out fine. Uptil now I did not have to use any weights. Buy a compound electric miter saw. It will save you a lot of time. If I had an option of buying only one power tool I would have bought that ($115 at builders square). Haris Ashraf ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: reece daniel kr2 From: thomas_marcella@uml.edu Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:16:23 X-Message-Number: 16 i am looking at a picture of the reece daniel kr2 in the march 1994 issue of kitplanes. it looks as if it has a one piece flap which extends under the fuselage. am i seeing right? Does anyone have any knowledge of this aircraft? also, where do i send my $10 krnet membership fee? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: prop and valve adjustments From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:37:58 -0700 X-Message-Number: 17 Jesse, The porp torque question caused quite a flap on the net a year or two ago, mostly through misunderstandings. Torqued your prop to 12 ft/lb. Careful not to overtorque them. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM mailto:jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kjeffs.html http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm On Wed, 09 Dec 1998 08:59:30 PST "Jesse Klebsch" writes: >Can anyone tell me how much to torque the wooden prop on my KR, it >doesn't have a name, only the size written on it. > >Also, the rocker arms are adjustable and the lifters are hydraulic on >my >1835 vw, how are they supposed to be set? Please forgive my ignorance > >as i'm rather new at this. > >Thanks, >Jesse Klebsch > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jscott.pilot@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR-2S Spars From: "Martin Mulvey" Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:26:52 -0800 X-Message-Number: 18 Yes, it should be done. The same thing will happen to the spars as will the cavities between the ribs. BRGDS Marty -----Original Message----- From: Olga Saunders To: KR-net users group Date: 08 December, 1998 16:46 Subject: [kr-net] KR-2S Spars >As per a suggestion by an engineer at RR, I covered both sides of my spars >with a shear web. My question is this, do the closed in spaces inside the >spar box need to ventilated ? I've heard of similiar closed in air pockets >causing delamination at altitude with glass layups. > >Mike Saunders > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kr2smm@email.msn.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KRNet $$ From: BSHADR@aol.com Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 02:27:10 EST X-Message-Number: 19 In a message dated 98-12-11 00:41:40 EST, Thomas wrote: << where do i send my $10 krnet membership fee? >> Ouch! A live one. Quick Ross, hold your grubby palm out. Thomas, send your generous donation to: Ross Youngblood 1109 NE Burke Place Corvallis, OR 97330 Ross is one hard working dude, not to mention his two assistant den mothers Brian and TP Oscar. Thanks for the donations. Randy (Whinemaster) Stein Soviet Monica, CA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: South African KRGuy From: BSHADR@aol.com Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 02:27:19 EST X-Message-Number: 20 Folks: I think we have a new builder joining us soon. Ko Bus, how about sending him a howdy. I think he is in your neck of the world. Randy Stein Soviet Monica, CA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <> --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com