From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Monday, January 18, 1999 12:11 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: January 17, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Sunday, January 17, 1999. 1. Re: Retract Gear 2. KR's in the Phoenix area 3. Re: New airfoils 4. Re: Cabin Heat 5. Re: New airfoils 6. Re: Material Properties 7. Wood 8. Nav. Lights 9. Re: Nav. Lights 10. plywood 11. Re: Nav. Lights 12. Re: Material Properties 13. Re: retractable gear, wing incidence 14. Re: Cabin Heat 15. Re: Retract Gear 16. Re: retractable gear ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Retract Gear From: "doug peyton" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 04:26:09 PST X-Message-Number: 1 I installed a small aluminum box on the end of each gear latch lever with a cut-off 1/4" bolt running through each box and into the "mousetrap." The bolts are spring-loaded and extend into the "mousetrap" about 3/4". I drilled a small hole through each 1/4" bolt for a cotter key and washer which the spring pushes against. I have lanyards tied under each bolt-head for pulling the pins free (towards the front of the airplane) when it is time to retract the gear. Two bolts hold each small aluminum box to the latch levers, and the spring inside each of the small boxes keeps the pin (the 1/4" bolt) well inside of the "mousetrap." >-----Original Message----- >From: Michael C. Taglieri >To: KR-net users group >Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 6:33 PM >Subject: [kr-net] Re: Retract Gear > > >The pin-locking system sounds like overkill to me. I was thinking that you could just have a mechanism that holds down the ends of the latches on the "mousetraps" after they click in -- maybe a sliding latch across the top of them, or a cable attached to the ends of them that pulls them down tight. >>>Ed Janssen >In the meantime, I'd like to hear from people building (or flying) >>>the classic retractible gear design. > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR's in the Phoenix area From: Chris Gardiner Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 09:21:42 -0500 X-Message-Number: 2 Are there any KR's flying or under construction in the Phoenix,Ariz area ? Sure would like to visit another builder /flyer during a business trip there in Feb.99. Just like Mike Mims, I need some occasional motivation to keep plugging away at my KR2S. Winter blahs are setting in here too.! Please advise through KR NET or E mail me direct at ; clgard@netcom.ca Thanks to all the participants on KR NET over the past two years that have helped to get me this far on my dream of flying my own KR. Regards Chris Gardiner ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: New airfoils From: JEHayward@aol.com Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 11:06:18 EST X-Message-Number: 3 In a message dated 1/16/99 6:59:11 AM Mountain Standard Time, KR2616TJ@aol.com writes: << For you who have not yet built your spars, it is easily adapted into your construction. >> Is much changing required if you've already built the spars for Deihl's wing skins? Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cabin Heat From: Alastair Hawkins Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 10:05:26 -0800 X-Message-Number: 4 Thanks to all your replies to my question, I guess I will still find a way to fit a heat muff. It is just a very tight fit, because of the 4 into 2 tuned exhaust system. Alastair Hawkins Port Coquitlam,B.C. Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: New airfoils From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:45:15 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 Jim Hayward wrote: > Is much changing required if you've already built the spars for > Deihl's wing skins? If the aft spar isn't mounted yet, all you need to do is add a 3/8" strip of spruce to the top cap to bring the spar up to 4-3/8" tall, and mount it about 1.5" above the lower longeron, rather than resting on it. The main spar goes in the same place, and is the same dimension, except the shaping of the caps for the airfoil contours is slightly different (not enough to matter, but don't do it if you haven't already). If your horizontal stabilizer is already glued in place, then you'd need to change the tail incidence to something closer to -1 degree. This is number was calculated by Mark Lougheed, and should be considered preliminary, so it might be that you could get away without changing it, but I'd have an experienced pilot fly it first that way. When mine flies, I'll let everybody know what it should be set to, so it can be locked down with confidence from the beginning. Jim Hill rebuilt his KR2 to KR2S specs, and added my adjustable tail scheme so he could dial in his tail incidence and reduce trim drag to a minimum. Troy Petteway came down and flew it first, and after a few flights had it nailed down so that at cruise and trimmed out level, the trim tab is in line with the elevator. So I guess it works. Jim also reports that it's much more stable now than in it's previous KR2 life, due mostly to the extra fuselage length and the 6" he added to each side of his horizontal stabilizer. I'm sure he'll make it to this year's Gathering, as he's usually one of the regulars. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Material Properties From: Donald Reid Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:50:28 -0500 X-Message-Number: 6 Dean Collette wrote: > > Does anyone have a link for material properties? > I am interested in physical and mechanical properties for aluminum alloys > (2024, 6061, 7075.) Here are a few, I hope that they help 2024-T3 6061-T6 Tensile Ultimate 60 42 ksi Tensile Yield 44 36 ksi Compressive Yield 36 35 ksi Shear Ultimate 37 27 ksi Bearing Ultimate 121 88 ksi Elastic Modulus 10 9.9 msi Shear Modulus 3.8 3.8 msi Poissons Ratio 0.33 0.33 ksi = 1000 lbf/in^2 msi = 1,000,000 lbf/in^2 -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Wood From: JKM001@aol.com Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:55:46 EST X-Message-Number: 7 Has anyone used any other woos such as doug fir, yellow poplar or any other "FAA Approved" wood for there KR? If so, I would really like to hear about it. Regards Keith ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Nav. Lights From: JKM001@aol.com Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:04:41 EST X-Message-Number: 8 I would like to hear from the folks who have purchased wing tip lights, strobes and landing lights, and where they have purchased them from. I have a catalog from SkySports, that has some lights in it, but I am not sure if they are what i really want. Also has anyone mounted their landing light in the cowl like some of the Cessnas have? Regards Keith PS SkySports URL is www.airstuff.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Nav. Lights From: "JEAN" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:32:03 -0600 X-Message-Number: 9 I think I would reconsider mounting the landing light in the cowling. When I worked for a Cessna dealer we were always replacing the ones in the cowl due to the vibration. Jean -----Original Message----- From: JKM001@aol.com To: KR-net users group Date: Sunday, January 17, 1999 7:08 PM Subject: [kr-net] Nav. Lights >I would like to hear from the folks who have purchased wing tip lights, >strobes and landing lights, and where they have purchased them from. I have a >catalog from SkySports, that has some lights in it, but I am not sure if they >are what i really want. >Also has anyone mounted their landing light in the cowl like some of the >Cessnas have? > >Regards >Keith > >PS SkySports URL is www.airstuff.com > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: N4DD@prodigy.net >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: plywood From: Steve Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:04:50 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 10 In the AS&S catalog they have basswood plywood. They say it is built to the same mil spec as there domestic plywood but is slightly weaker. Does anyone know how much weaker? Would it be safe to use it? It is supposed to be lighter than mahogany. Thanks Steve _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Nav. Lights From: "WARRON GRAY" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:15:23 -0500 X-Message-Number: 11 In my searching for CHEAPEST prices on strobe/nav lights i went with Chief 's Aircraft they were the lowest priced at the time 1.5 years ago. I used 2 units, one in each the wing tip to power the strobes. Warron -----Original Message----- From: JKM001@aol.com To: KR-net users group Date: Sunday, January 17, 1999 8:06 PM Subject: [kr-net] Nav. Lights >I would like to hear from the folks who have purchased wing tip lights, >strobes and landing lights, and where they have purchased them from. I have a ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Material Properties From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael C. Taglieri) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:09:00 EST X-Message-Number: 12 Whenever I need anything of this nature, the first place I look is Machinery's Handbook and I am rarely disappointed. Expensive when new, but you can find the older editions cheap and the stuff I turn to it for doesn't change much. I got the 17th Edition for $6 at a used book stand on the street, replacing my . There's also a companion book "The use of Handbook Tables and Formulas," which is intended to help "engineering and trade schools" train how to use the Handbook effectively. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------------------------------- "May your life be full of lawyers" -- Mexican curse ------------------------------------------------------- >Does anyone have a link for material properties? >I am interested in physical and mechanical properties for aluminum >alloys >(2024, 6061, 7075.) > >(I had all of this in a book which is . . . somewhere??) > >Dean >mailto:drdean@execpc.com > > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: miketnyc@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: retractable gear, wing incidence From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael C. Taglieri) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:08:59 EST X-Message-Number: 13 I'll keep those mods in mind. On the other hand, there may be more before I'm done, since I'm not even sure these ARE the standard retracts -- they look a lot like them, but they're actually the two rear wheels for a retractible tricycle setup. I plan to sell the parts for the retractible nosegear in any case, but if there are parts to the rear wheels that turn out to be specific for the tricycle setup, maybe someone who has the retracts and wants to build the retract tricycle instead could make a deal with me. Incidentally, I decided long ago to build my wings with one degree less incidence than the plans specify (standard washout), but I was always thinking I'd be doing the fixed gear. Does anyone know if the higher incidence was perhaps intended so you could three-point the plane on the retracts without hitting the tailwheel too soon? Mike Taglieri ------------------------------------------------------- "May your life be full of lawyers" -- Mexican curse ------------------------------------------------------- >G'day Michael > I, like you have stayed with the retracts. Time will tell if >it was = >a foolish decision or not, however I have incorporated a couple of >mods = >to hopefully improve it without adding too much weight. I have added >1" = >spacers between the spring bar and the castings and bump stops are >instal= >led above the ends of the spring bar to prevent excesive spring bar >defle= >ction. Also I have made a pair of hinged gear fairings that are >attache= >d to the stubwing skin (beefed up) and are activated by the gear legs. >= > They should prevent ingress of too much slipstream and greatly >improve = >airflow over the retracted gear. > >Malcolm Bennett > >---------- >> >> >Here's the deal - I'll talk with her about how she wishes to >proceed. = > >> >I'll >> >report back once she tells me. Everyone line up, take a number and >= > >> >write it >> >on the back of a crisp new $20 bill. >> >> Too late. I called her today and told her I wanted to buy it, >partly >> because she said I could keep it there for awhile until I find a > >> workspace, the search for which is now kicking into high gear. >> >> Assuming I buy it, I expect to be getting rid of several things, >> including the throw-over control wheel, the Type 4 engine, the >> retractible tricycle gear, and all the gyro instruments (except >possibl= >y >> for a turn indicator). >> >> In the meantime, I'd like to hear from people building (or flying) >the >> classic retractible gear design. I wouldn't have bought this gear >if = >I >> were starting from scratch, but except for the nosewheel the >retractibl= >e >> tricycle gear seems to be similar or identical to the standard >retract >> gear, so I might as well use it if I can. There are several beef-up >> procedures for the lock mechanism in the Newsletters and I plan to >buil= >d >> a plane as close to stock weight as I can. Also, of course, the >> retractible gear is much cooler. If anyone got rid of retractible >gear= >, >> I'd like to hear about that, too, and also possibly buy some of your >> parts for spares. >> >> Mike Taglieri >> >> ------------------------------------------------------- >> "May your life be full of lawyers" -- Mexican curse >> ------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> ___________________________________________________________________ >> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at >http://www.juno.com/getjuno.htm= >l >> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] >> >> --- >> You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: benfam@picknowl.com.au >> To unsubscribe send a blank email to >leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com >> > > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: miketnyc@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cabin Heat From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael C. Taglieri) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 03:02:22 EST X-Message-Number: 14 In Firewall Forward, Tony Bingelis shows a very compact design that consists of a curved piece of metal welded to one side of the exhaust pipe. Visualize a tin can with top removed, then slit vertically, with a pipe for the heater hose on the side. It's welded to the pipe with the open end facing front and takes up room only on that side. Of course, this won't collect as much heat as something encircling the whole pipe. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------------------------------- "May your life be full of lawyers" -- Mexican curse ------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 17 Jan 1999 10:05:26 -0800 Alastair Hawkins writes: >Thanks to all your replies to my question, I guess I will still find a >way >to fit a heat muff. It is just a very tight fit, because of the 4 into >2 >tuned exhaust system. > >Alastair Hawkins >Port Coquitlam,B.C. >Canada > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: miketnyc@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Retract Gear From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael C. Taglieri) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 03:02:22 EST X-Message-Number: 15 Sounds interesting, but I don't quite follow it, maybe because I don't know what part you mean by "gear latch lever." Do you mean you have the aluminum box with the pin and spring inside attached to the end of the gear lock arms (p.36) themselves? If so, what part of the fuselage does the pin go into when the lever latches, or do you mean something compoetely different? On Sun, 17 Jan 1999 04:26:09 PST "doug peyton" writes: > I installed a small aluminum box on the end of each gear latch >lever with a cut-off 1/4" bolt running through each box and into the >"mousetrap." The bolts are spring-loaded and extend into the >"mousetrap" about 3/4". I drilled a small hole through each 1/4" bolt > >for a cotter key and washer which the spring pushes against. I have >lanyards tied under each bolt-head for pulling the pins free (towards >the front of the airplane) when it is time to retract the gear. Two >bolts hold each small aluminum box to the latch levers, and the spring > >inside each of the small boxes keeps the pin (the 1/4" bolt) well >inside >of the "mousetrap." > > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Michael C. Taglieri >>To: KR-net users group >>Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 6:33 PM >>Subject: [kr-net] Re: Retract Gear >> >> >>The pin-locking system sounds like overkill to me. I was thinking >that >you could just have a mechanism that holds down the ends of the >latches >on the "mousetraps" after they click in -- maybe a sliding latch >across >the top of them, or a cable attached to the ends of them that pulls >them down tight. > >>>>Ed Janssen >>In the meantime, I'd like to hear from people building (or flying) >>>>the classic retractible gear design. >> > > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: miketnyc@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: retractable gear From: miketnyc@juno.com (Michael C. Taglieri) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 03:02:22 EST X-Message-Number: 16 The spacers are an interesting idea. I noticed Neil Bingham bent his springbars for the same reason, but he had to go to a place with a giant press to do it. To prevent the slipstream from getting into the wells, could you just fasten furniture upholstery foam around the edges to touch the wheels when they were up? This would be springy enough to let the gear pass by, but it would then seal the gap somewhat. It would have to be replaced at intervals as it got worn down, but I don't see how a failure of it could cause an in-flight problem. Mike >G'day Michael > I, like you have stayed with the retracts. Time will tell if >it was = >a foolish decision or not, however I have incorporated a couple of >mods = >to hopefully improve it without adding too much weight. I have added >1" = >spacers between the spring bar and the castings and bump stops are >instal= >led above the ends of the spring bar to prevent excesive spring bar >defle= >ction. Also I have made a pair of hinged gear fairings that are >attache= >d to the stubwing skin (beefed up) and are activated by the gear legs. >= > They should prevent ingress of too much slipstream and greatly >improve = >airflow over the retracted gear. > >Malcolm Bennett > >---------- >> >> >Here's the deal - I'll talk with her about how she wishes to >proceed. = > >> >I'll >> >report back once she tells me. Everyone line up, take a number and >= > >> >write it >> >on the back of a crisp new $20 bill. >> >> Too late. I called her today and told her I wanted to buy it, >partly >> because she said I could keep it there for awhile until I find a > >> workspace, the search for which is now kicking into high gear. >> >> Assuming I buy it, I expect to be getting rid of several things, >> including the throw-over control wheel, the Type 4 engine, the >> retractible tricycle gear, and all the gyro instruments (except >possibl= >y >> for a turn indicator). >> >> In the meantime, I'd like to hear from people building (or flying) >the >> classic retractible gear design. I wouldn't have bought this gear >if = >I >> were starting from scratch, but except for the nosewheel the >retractibl= >e >> tricycle gear seems to be similar or identical to the standard >retract >> gear, so I might as well use it if I can. There are several beef-up >> procedures for the lock mechanism in the Newsletters and I plan to >buil= >d >> a plane as close to stock weight as I can. Also, of course, the >> retractible gear is much cooler. If anyone got rid of retractible >gear= >, >> I'd like to hear about that, too, and also possibly buy some of your >> parts for spares. >> >> Mike Taglieri >> >> ------------------------------------------------------- >> "May your life be full of lawyers" -- Mexican curse >> ------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> ___________________________________________________________________ >> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at >http://www.juno.com/getjuno.htm= >l >> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] >> >> --- >> You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: benfam@picknowl.com.au >> To unsubscribe send a blank email to >leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com >> > > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: miketnyc@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com