From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 12:12 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: May 25, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Tuesday, May 25, 1999. 1. Re: Water level??? 2. Starter motor 3. Re: tri gear plans 4. Re: Water level??? 5. Re: Water level??? 6. Re: Water level??? 7. Re: Water level??? 8. Re: Water level??? 9. Reduction Drives 10. Re: alternative Wood selection 11. Re: Water level??? 12. Re: 13. Re: alternative Wood selection 14. More Sport Aviation 15. Re: Water level??? 16. KR2 FOR SALE 17. Re: 18. Re: Water level??? 19. Changes? What changes? 20. Re: alternative Wood selection 21. Progress Report 22. Re: alternative Wood selection ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: "Richard Parker" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 02:25:07 PDT X-Message-Number: 1 nothing magical, its just a peice of clear plastic tubing about 20 feet long and some water. Get a 1/4 inch id minimum as you want to reduce the effects of surface tension. you can get it at your local hardware store. Some hardware stores also have a clear extension with closeable end caps that fits on each end of a garden hose. >From: "Steve Glover" >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Water level??? >Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:14:7 > >Can anybody tell me how to make a water level? I looked in the set of >plans I have but couldn't find it. Thanks in advance! > >Steve > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Starter motor From: "fly" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:46:25 +1200 X-Message-Number: 2 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEA6F8.095C59A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Help! are helping to fit a Revmaster 2100DQ (lower plugs under the rocker = covers) which has a six volt starter and a gear ratio of 12-1. The = previous owner tells us that the starter was allways hopeless and would = only just turn the motor over. What other starters can be fitted? Can = the gear ratio be changed? can you rewind the existing to 12v or simply = replace the whole thing? What type of starters are others using on their = Revmasters. Would appreciate some input please.........David=20 fly@paradise.net.nz ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEA6F8.095C59A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Help!

are helping to fit a Revmaster 2100DQ (lower = plugs under=20 the rocker covers) which has a six volt starter and a gear ratio of = 12-1. The=20 previous owner tells us that the starter was allways hopeless and would = only=20 just turn the motor over. What other starters can be fitted? Can the = gear ratio=20 be changed? can you rewind the existing to 12v or simply replace the = whole=20 thing? What type of starters are others using on their Revmasters. Would = appreciate some input please.........David

fly@paradise.net.nz

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEA6F8.095C59A0-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: tri gear plans From: "Dale Baldwin" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:05:07 -0400 X-Message-Number: 3 ---------- > From: Bob Whisenant > To: KR-net users group > Subject: [kr-net] tri gear plans > Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 9:45 AM > > I was told that George Toth in tomball Tx.near Houston is offering plans > for tri.gear.I would like to contact him.Can anyone give a phone number or > address > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: sketch013@worldnet.att.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com George Toth 920 Lawrence St. #304 Tomball, TX 77375 This was his address as of May '93, may have changed ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: "Steve Glover" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 6:21:55 X-Message-Number: 4 What is the best way to seal it? Also, do you need to make any marks on it for reference??? Thanks! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: JEHayward@aol.com Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:32:49 EDT X-Message-Number: 5 In a message dated 5/25/99 4:18:15 AM Mountain Daylight Time, richontheroad@hotmail.com writes: << nothing magical, its just a peice of clear plastic tubing about 20 feet long and some water. >> I used isopropol alcohol instead of water in mine......seemed to flow/move in the tubing a bit easier. Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: Kimball Anderson Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:35:23 -0400 X-Message-Number: 6 Look in the FAQ under the Spars and Wings section, and then at the "Leveling the KR" article. It's a written description of how to make and use a water level, with an addendum on the Smart Tool electronic level. The FAQ is located at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking/ Kimball Anderson isleno@hargray.com -----Original Message----- From: Steve Glover To: KR-net users group Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 11:18 PM Subject: [kr-net] Water level??? >Can anybody tell me how to make a water level? I looked in the set of >plans I have but couldn't find it. Thanks in advance! > >Steve > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: isleno@hargray.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: Kimball Anderson Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:43:25 -0400 X-Message-Number: 7 By the way, does anyone out there have any pictures of a water level being used to level the KR boat? If so, email me direct. Thanks, Kimball Anderson isleno@hargray.com -----Original Message----- From: Kimball Anderson To: KR-net users group Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 12:40 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Water level??? >Look in the FAQ under the Spars and Wings section, and then at the "Leveling >the KR" article. It's a written description of how to make and use a water >level, with an addendum on the Smart Tool electronic level. > >The FAQ is located at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking/ > >Kimball Anderson >isleno@hargray.com >-----Original Message----- >From: Steve Glover >To: KR-net users group >Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 11:18 PM >Subject: [kr-net] Water level??? > > >>Can anybody tell me how to make a water level? I looked in the set of >>plans I have but couldn't find it. Thanks in advance! >> >>Steve >> >>--- >>You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: isleno@hargray.com >>To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com >> > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: isleno@hargray.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: "Richard Parker" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:27:18 PDT X-Message-Number: 8 you dont seal it. The water will always be at the same level at either end. >From: "Steve Glover" >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Re: Water level??? >Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 6:21:55 > >What is the best way to seal it? Also, do you need to make any marks on it >for reference??? > >Thanks! > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Reduction Drives From: "Blandford, Carlton C" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:37:42 +0200 X-Message-Number: 9 Morning Chaps, I've been doing some research into this reduction drive stuff with a mate of mine who has designed and manufactured a drive for the Sabaru EA81 type engine. This complete installation weighs in at 95kg wet with prop. Unfortunately there is not a great demand for this in this country so he only makes them on demand. One is currently installed on a Zenair and has currently 60 hours on it. If anyone is interested in the drive or just the plans I can post a preview to you directly offline. The drive weighs 9kg and has a "special" type clutch dampening devise. (no springs) By the way, he did not use the clutch type drive with the springs as I thought, he says this only lasted five hours and disintegrated. So Mark was right with his predictions on this type of application. Another type of drive that can be use is the clutch plate with the rubber type dampeners that replace the springs. You find these on the old Toyota's. Anyone interested please mail me offline cheers Carlton Blandford Standard Bank - Integrated Network Services Tel No: 027 11 636-8372 Fax No: 027 11 636-3074 *CBlandford@Mail.SBIC.co.za ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: alternative Wood selection From: GREG S MARTIN Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:48:15 -0700 X-Message-Number: 10 Wendy, As we had spoke when you were in Bakersfeild abuot a month ago. The numbers on the redwood were very good. Yes, it is a little lighter than doug fir clear. I would only make sure that you don't get real wet wood. Make sure that the moisture content is down below 5%. Other wise you will get some seperation on grain from the drying. It's easy to tell the moisture content. Just pick it up. Find the lightest and look in the UBC for specific gravity per cubic inch and calc. the volume of the wood you have and then weight it. That should give you the moisture content. Good luck and happy building and/or flying Greg Martin Bakersfield, CA On Mon, 24 May 1999 17:18:10 "Wendell Hinman" writes: >I've been digging in the archive for stuff on wood (other than >spruce). I >didn't find any info on using Redwood. It's stronger and just as >light. >What's the scoop? Why isn't used or is it? > >Bet you can guess how far I am on my project! > >Wendell (Wendy) Hinman >Ontario, CA > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: idrawtobuild@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to >leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: cartera Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:52:56 -0600 X-Message-Number: 11 > Kimball Anderson > isleno@hargray.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Glover > To: KR-net users group > Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 11:18 PM > Subject: [kr-net] Water level??? > > >Can anybody tell me how to make a water level? I looked in the set of > >plans I have but couldn't find it. Thanks in advance! > > > >Steve > > > >--- > >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: isleno@hargray.com > >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: cartera@cuug.ab.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com Hi KRnetters, It seem the longer this thread goes the more complicated it gets. However, a water level is very simple and it's the KISS principle that we want to follow. My leveling on my KR was done all by water level. I purchased the clear ends from a builders store, Home Depot just talked to them $10.75 Can. sure it would be cheaper in the US. This has a connector to the hose and clear plastic sight gauge with caps on each end to keep the water in when you lay it on the floor, water won't run out. You can connect it to a 50' garden hose. Remember water finds it's own level, so if one wants to level two points this is the way to go. At one time I did know what to add to minimize surface tension, but I can't remember think it was a few drops of ammonia and you can add food coloring for better visual reference. It is one thing to go for the expensive electronic and then you can be an engineer with the latest technology or use the KISS principle at minimum cost which is a concern when building. I put in a suspended ceiling 2250 sq. ft. with a water level and then had the opportunity to check it with a laser and I was right on in all areas. Level your boat with a 4' hand level and do your wings with the water level - real simple! This is what I did when I was ready to drill my WAF's. You have to mount both spars to check this out to your boat. Good Luck and Happy Flying all! -- Adrian VE6AFY Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: From: Bobby Muse Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:19:56 -0500 X-Message-Number: 12 At 06:21 AM 05/25/1999, you wrote: >Help! >are helping to fit a Revmaster 2100DQ (lower plugs under the rocker covers) which has a six volt starter and a gear ratio of 12-1. The previous owner tells us that the starter was allways hopeless and would only just turn the motor over. What other starters can be fitted? Can the gear ratio be changed? can you rewind the existing to 12v or simply replace the whole thing? What type of starters are others using on their Revmasters. Would appreciate some input please.........David > To start with ,, throw the Revmaster starter away. Buy an 'Adapter Plate' for a Suburu Geared Starter from Dan Deihl. Get the geared Suburu starter(ask Dan what models fit) and you will be very happy. This is what I, and most pilot with the Revmaster starter, have done. The Suburu starter will really spin you engine and you won't be recharging the battery over and over and over..... Bobby Muse mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: alternative Wood selection From: Horn2004@aol.com Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:22:06 EDT X-Message-Number: 13 In a message dated 5/25/99 2:50:03 PM, idrawtobuild@juno.com writes: <> I thought I had read in the Experimenter that they discouraged the use of redwood due to it's natural oils/resin being incompatable with with epoxy, or resulting in a weak bond. Have you investigated this? Has anyone heard this before? Steve Horn horn2004@aol.com Dallas, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: More Sport Aviation From: Donald Reid Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:32:54 -0400 X-Message-Number: 14 Well folks, the latest batch of the KR in Sport Aviation is up on the web and ready for your reading pleasure. http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_SA.htm We are now up to July of 1993. I have one more batch to load in about two weeks. Unless I find some hidden gems, there will be two more articles and various unrelated pictures. For example, I have found a really nice shot of a KR-1B that needs to be seen by the rest of the net. Enjoy. -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: "Steve Glover" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:46:5 X-Message-Number: 15 Again, thanks to eveyone for your help! I think I am going in the right direction now. If noit, I guess I'll end up finding out the hard way, ( like I usually do anyways) Steve ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR2 FOR SALE From: "Rod Kelso" Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:22:48 -0600 X-Message-Number: 16 For personal reasons I am going to sell my KR2. If anyone is interested e-mail me privatley and I will tell you all about it. ASKING 2500$. No engine and about 50% finished. It also has Mooney Might retract gear, and is a tail dragger. Complete set of plans with serial number. Also has wing tanks started, and a fuel tank aft of seats. Rod Kelso Denver, Colorado USA......................................:o)) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: From: DClarke351@aol.com Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:01:32 EDT X-Message-Number: 17 I agree with Bob on that idea. Get the Subaru starter setup. You can also get the right starter from autoparts stores, junk yards etc. The housing will need to be machined but once trhat is done that part of the housing can be fitted to other drive sections for real cheap. Don Clarke ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Water level??? From: Totryroma@aol.com Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 01:56:24 EDT X-Message-Number: 18 Surface tension can be reduced by many chemicals. One of the best is any detergent, course the bad side effect it can foam up. Most alcohols are okay in any proportions. Remember to "read" the bottom of the meniscus (curve). Suggestion -- use the blue auto window wash solutions. They have alcohol, are rather inert, are cheap and are colored. (Also don't drink it -- Methanol is hazardous to your inner health ;>) ) Ron Macomber South Sioux City, NE ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Changes? What changes? From: Mike Mims Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:05:41 -0700 X-Message-Number: 19 Yall really need to get on over and read those articles on Dons site. Especially the ones at: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Kr93-1.HTM and http://users.erols.com/donreid/Kr90-2.HTM They really make me feel good about the things I have changed on my bird! Seems that I share a lot of the same opinions these two guys have. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Ailerons almost done! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: alternative Wood selection From: GREG S MARTIN Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:02:43 -0700 X-Message-Number: 20 Wendy This is very important as I was only thinking of moisture and splitting. You may have to get kilin dryed just to remove the oils. Greg Martin Happy building and/or flying Greg Martin Bakersfield, CA On Tue, 25 May 1999 17:22:06 EDT Horn2004@aol.com writes: > >In a message dated 5/25/99 2:50:03 PM, idrawtobuild@juno.com writes: > ><lighter than >doug fir clear. I would only make sure that you don't get real wet >wood. > Make sure that the moisture content is down below 5%. Other wise >you >will get some seperation on grain from the drying. >> > >I thought I had read in the Experimenter that they discouraged the use >of >redwood due to it's natural oils/resin being incompatable with with >epoxy, or >resulting in a weak bond. Have you investigated this? Has anyone heard >this >before? > >Steve Horn >horn2004@aol.com >Dallas, TX > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: idrawtobuild@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to >leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Progress Report From: Mike Mims Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:15:50 -0700 X-Message-Number: 21 Maybe a little progress report to get everyone in the building mood for this 3 day weekend that's coming up. First Ill have you know I turned down the chance to play in a hockey tournament just so I could spend more time at the hanger. Yall should be proud of me! Last night I made my way out to the hanger to apply the last few layups to the ailerons. What this means is that besides the mounting of the firewall ALL MAJOR FIBERGLASS PARTS ARE COMPLETE! Can I hear a BIG Woo Hoo?? So the plan for this weekend is fill and sand. Maybe to the point that she is ready for more SmoothPrime. I feel like adding some red dye to the smooth prime so my pig is nice and pink! :o) On the engine front,.. after pulling what I call a Dork Maneuver (broke two oil rings) I almost have my engine back together. Well its a long block anyway. I had to order two oil rings (no I wont get into what they cost but you could have bought a complete jug set for a VW) for the front two cylinders and they should be here any day now. Then its just a matter of sliding the two front cylinders on and I am done. Well at least until its hanging on the front of the Pig. Then I will add the accessories. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Back to filling and sanding! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: alternative Wood selection From: Mike Mims Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:19:54 -0700 X-Message-Number: 22 GREG S MARTIN wrote: > > Wendy > > This is very important as I was only thinking of moisture and splitting. You may have to get kilin dryed just to remove the oils. > Wendy,.. Spar lumber in Long Beach has killer clear fur. I don't have their number handy but if you don't plan to use spruce that's your best bet around here. I think maybe Buster AKA George Bell may have their number. Maybe he will post it. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Ailerons almost done! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com