From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 1999 12:17 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: June 28, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Monday, June 28, 1999. 1. Re: Working with carbon fiber 2. Motor mounts 3. Terra's going away... 4. Re: Motor mounts 5. Re: Progress report 6. Re: motor mounts 7. Aircraft Spruce 8. Re: Aircraft Spruce 9. Re: Revflow/POSA tuning 10. Revmaster... 11. Re: Revmaster... 12. Re: strobe info? 13. Re: strobe info? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Working with carbon fiber From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 07:22:58 EDT X-Message-Number: 1 In a message dated 6/28/99 12:39:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ejanssen@chipsnet.com writes: << Not sure whether this has been mentioned before, but the edges of a carbon fiber piece is difficult to sand smooth - keeps getting frizzy edges. If you run some "Super Glue" or similar stuff along the edge and let it dry, then the carbon fiber sands to a real nice smooth edge. Use the cheaper watery stuff - not the thicker gel. >> Haris, I just used one layer of carbon fiber on each side of my new elevator and it is so $#%#@$ stiff..........I think I'll go swing the trailing edge around and do some hedge trimming with it. It is some great stuff, you will not have any problem using it. It works just like any other cloth. Instead of peel ply, I used Mark's method of laying a layer of "deck" cloth on top on the layer of carbon fiber. I got a better final surface than peel ply. If you do sand an edge "fuzzy", just overlay a small piece of this deck cloth and it's history, you will never see the patch and it is epoxy just like everything around it. I know a fellow builder mentioned using carbon fiber on all layups and I thought it was overkill but after trying it.....................Steve, this one's for you:-)....I tried it and it works. Dana Overall 1999 KR Gathering host Richmond, Ky mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Motor mounts From: Oscar Zuniga Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 05:48:45 PDT X-Message-Number: 2 DJ wrote: >Why would you glue motor mounts on? Why not bolt them on? Actually, these are not the motor mounts. They are aluminum reinforcements which go behind the wood x-members and framing which forms the structural backing behind the firewall. This reinforcement was added from the original design on the KR-1. The actual motor mounts are bolted on just like on any other airplane, but will bolt through the firewall and the fuselage forward x-members... now reinforced with aluminum. Several netters have good photos of this reinforcement on their web pages, Mike Mims for example. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon website at http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/ _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Terra's going away... From: "Mark Langford" Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 08:02:47 -0500 X-Message-Number: 3 KRNetHeads, I've been thinking about avionics lately, and remembered hearing a vicious rumor that Trimble (after buying Terra last year) has decided to focus on commercial stuff and discontinue GA products. I've wondered if that meant the tiny (half-size) lightweight radios and transponders were going to be discontinued (surely not, I told myself). I called Gulf Coast Avionics this morning and was told they have exactly three transponders left, if anybody else is planning to use them. I ordered the com/transponder/encoder package for $2395. These are too cool not to have one, even if I'm not flying for a year or so. They said they'd extend the warranty to two years for me. Besides, now I can listen to "aviation radio" while working in the basement. That ought to be inspirational. My panel can be seen at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/krpanel.jpg . It's already cut out and ready to install. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Motor mounts From: E J Spencer Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:17:28 -0500 X-Message-Number: 4 Oscar, I like you thoughts and style. Keep up the good comments and thoughts .Lots information come from your way. Yours truly Joe Spencer ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Progress report From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 10:25:09 EDT X-Message-Number: 5 In a message dated 99-06-27 23:31:04 EDT, you write: << Did I miss something here? Please explain. I looked in Wicks catalog and could not determine what this is. I'm confused. >> KR200-191: Rudder Model od Kit for hydraulic brakes. Page 66 in 1998 catalog. Used to make toe brakes. Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: motor mounts From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 10:43:14 EDT X-Message-Number: 6 In a message dated 99-06-28 01:12:18 EDT, you write: << Why would you glue motor mounts on? Why not bolt them on? >> These are pieces that go behind the firewall and act as bearing surfaces for the engine mount bolts. The engine mount is still on the other side of the firewall which ofcourse is bolted using, I believe, 1/2" or 5/8" bolts. If only washers are used, even the large AN 970 kind, during a very hard landing the mount bolts could crush through the wood and come out. An AN8-960 washer (for 1/2" bolts) provides about 3.14" of surface area. The Al pieces (3.5"x4") provide about five times more. The design specifies using angles which also provide some added strength as one side is bonded to the top 0.25" plywood shear brace. You can look into the KR2S supplement drawings (the one which has engine mount details) for a better explanation. Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Aircraft Spruce From: Rick Armstrong Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 11:14:05 -0700 X-Message-Number: 7 Some weeks ago, someone wrote they had 1800 board feet of spar quality wood. If anyone knows that address , please put it on . Thanks Rick Armstrong ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Aircraft Spruce From: "George P. Bell" Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 14:35:23 -0700 X-Message-Number: 8 This what you need? George Bell Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 13:37:52 -0700 From: George Von Torne <1vikinggvt@home.com> Subject: aircraft spruce George Von Torne wrote: > > Gentlemen: > I have come into possesion of 1800 board feet of spar grade spruce. > It has not been graded by any expert. > but if you will read the requirements of spar grade minimums in any book > on > aircraft wood this stuff is at least twice all the requirements set > forth > most of it will run 36" or more with out losing one grain in any > direction > It has been air dried in Kants ( or large timbers ) for the last 12 - 15 > years. > it has an average of 12- 15 grains per inch , looking at the end of the > kants the grain is between 85 and 90 degrees on all of it so cutting > prefectly vertical grain from these is not a problem. The book that I > have said that > any wood with a grain angle of 75 degrees or more is called vertical. > > So if any one would like to contact me about spruce just E-mail me > direct or through this group. > I can cut it to your size and plan two sides, I would like to price it > out at about half of aircraft spruce and specialty prices plus shipping > > Ps: I offered this to aircraft spruce and got no reply back from them so > I'm > offering it to the homebuilders. > > George Olympia washington Rick Armstrong wrote: > Some weeks ago, someone wrote they had 1800 board feet of spar quality > wood. If anyone knows that address , please put it on . > Thanks > Rick Armstrong > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: gpbell@jps.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Revflow/POSA tuning From: marmet Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 19:07:30 -0400 X-Message-Number: 9 Look up Sport Aviation magazine of March 1982, page 59. Maybe some of your fellow EAA'ers has it. JC "R.W. Moore" wrote: > does any one have a comy of "HOW TO ADJUST A POSA CARB?" for sale. Rex > Taylor I lost contact of where to reach him. > R. W. Moore > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Oscar Zuniga > To: KR-net users group > Sent: Saturday, June 19, 1999 8:41 AM > Subject: [kr-net] Revflow/POSA tuning > > > Garbez: > > > > Don't give up on your carb. It's a simple piece of hardware, an d has > worked > > well in many engines. I don't have one and I'm not sure how close a > cousin > > it is to the POSA, but if it's as similar as I think it is, maybe you can > > view the "How To Tune The POSA" video by Rex Taylor. It takes about 45 > > minutes, but get a bowl of ice cream and sit down to watch it. The > > operating principle is thoroughly gone through, as well as a step-by-step > > process for tuning the carb at idle, midrange, and top end. Complete with > > test stand running showing all the above. Also complete with a hop around > > the pattern in a Dragonfly demonstrating the performance. It's very clear > > and will give you confidence in how to make it work right. > > > > I have Paul Martin's personal copy, but if you're interested I could have > a > > copy made to have as a KRNet resource, and could send it to you first. > The > > operating principle on these carbs is just different from conventional > float > > carbs, so you have to think a bit differently. Paul has modified the > needle > > profile on his POSA according to methods posted here on the Net, and gets > > good operation from his. As I remember, the nose of Paul's trigear KR-2 > > gets light at 40 MPH, and a little back stick at that speed will put it on > > the tail with two up and an almost empty header tank. If yours feels like > > it's got concrete under the cowling at 80, something ain't right! > > > > Oscar "Don't know nothin'" Zuniga > > Medford, Oregon > > website at http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/ > > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: marmet2@videotron.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Revmaster... From: marmet Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 19:11:52 -0400 X-Message-Number: 10 I'm looking for a Revmaster alternator control box. Some of you have a web page for Revmaster but I couldn't see any E-mail address. Anybody know if they have one, or is the phone the only way to communicate with them? I would appriaciate the info, Thanks JC. Quebec, Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Revmaster... From: "Austin and Connie Clark" Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 21:52:58 -0500 X-Message-Number: 11 As far as I know, they do not have a web page. I ordered the alternator control box from them several months ago. They were very helpful, and provided ownership history for my Revmaster. Let me know if you need their phone number. I would post it, but I don't have it handy right now. Austin Clark KR2S 49% and holding Pascagoula MS www.datasync.com/~itac/ www.clarklumber.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: strobe info? From: Michael Geoghegan Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:58:53 -0400 X-Message-Number: 12 Mark Langford wrote: > I've always assumed I was going with two wing tip > strobes, but I hesistate to use the usual nav light/strobe combination since > it's so huge, and I'd have to fabricate clear wingtips to fair them in > properly (although Wicks has clear prefab wingtips for $80 that I might > try). Maybe I should mount them on the fuselage top and bottom? > Mark, I went with the Aeroflash nav/strobe/position wingtip units. I mounted the power supplies under the passenger seat and ran shielded wire through the wing for the three wires that go to the strobe bulb. The unit is only about 6 inches long and 1.5 inches wide and I was able to mount it right on the end of the wing tip. It really isn't a very large unit. When I tested them I found that all three bulbs were very bright to the point that the unit got quite hot from the wattage of the bulbs. All in all I think they will work out very nicely and although I don't know the joules I feel that there won't be any problem being seen. After all thats the result we are looking for. Mike Geoghegan Moretown Vermont ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: strobe info? From: Willard561@aol.com Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 23:48:41 EDT X-Message-Number: 13 I have a copy of the FAA specs for strobes/anticollision lights, and on thing that was brought out in a article 20+ yrs ago, was that the light meter they spec, and use to measure the light intensity is a integrating type, They went to this way back before anyone was using strobes( they days of the rotating beacon). So a multiflash strobe will meet the specs with a lower joule rating than a single flash unit. I also think that the voltage of the strobe tube affects the joulse required. One last thought, has anyone looked at Jim Weirs design for strobes at rst-engr.com? Bill Higdon Willard561@aol.com --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com