From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Sunday, July 18, 1999 12:13 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: July 17, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Saturday, July 17, 1999. 1. Fiber glass layup results 2. Emergency Proceedures (in light of how not to get out) 3. Re: carburators 4. Re: Dumb carb question 5. Re: Any Aviation Weather Services on the web?? 6. Re: Dumb carb question 7. Re: Filling/ Priming 8. Re: Weights 9. RE: DIY Fiberglass gear legs 10. Re: Filling/ Priming 11. Homemade fiberglass gear legs 12. Re: Couneracting yaw 13. Re: Fiber glass layup results 14. Re: Filling/ Priming 15. Re: Filling/ Priming 16. Re: Filling/ Priming 17. Parachutes and eXperimentals 18. Re: Filling/ Priming 19. Re: Filling/ Priming 20. Re: Fiber glass layup results 21. Re: Any Aviation Weather Services on the web??Thanks everyone! 22. D-fly Canopy Call in - Last chance 23. my new website 24. Re: Stupid question of the day 25. Re: Fuel tank 26. Re: Dynel 27. Re: Kr-1 28. Re: Bug in system,/ ret. gear 29. Re: Any Aviation Weather Services on the web?? 30. Re: Weight and Balance, C.G. Display Gauge 31. Try this again 32. Fuel Lines 33. Re: Filling/ Priming 34. Re: Fuel Lines 35. Re: D-fly Canopy Call in - Last chance 36. Cockpit Fires 37. Re: D-fly Canopy Call in - Last chance ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Fiber glass layup results From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 03:09:32 EDT X-Message-Number: 1 Hi Gang, Have never done any fiberglass work before so last week I spent some time practicing some layups. I thought I post results for people who are beginners in this field. I did see Mike Mims do some glass work. Mainly on cowling, ailerons and the dorsal fin. I might add that Mike's craftsmanship is superb and I did learn a lot by observing him work, so I wasn't completly 'green'. All my cores are polystryene and hot wired and I am using EZ poxy. The first piece I made was made by traditional method. I applied the slurry on the core, then added one layer of glass and then epoxy. I ended up with too much micro slurry which oozed out of the glass. The core was also had some imperfections. Still, the resulting laminate, which was eight inch long and looked like the leading edge of a stabilizer, was quite strong. I placed it over a small piece of foam and stood on it with one foot on each end (like a see saw) and was not able to break it. I weigh 155 lbs. Than Allan did the same and he was also not able to break it. He probably has a 50lbs advantage over me. He was finally able to break it by jumping over it. I am sure that it would have been adequate for our application where fiber just carry weight to the spars. For more practice glassed inside the fuselage but there really no way to judge the quality of the composite as I could not accurately measure the weight of glass or epoxy and I was also using thin (3.14 oz/sq-yd) glass cloth. I did that for noise reduction. Then I decided to be a little more scientific and use the plastic sheet method as described by Mark Langford on his web site. I cut a 0.80 sq.ft piece of KR-glass and weighed it accurately. It came out to be 0.465 oz. Then I placed it on the plastic sheet (6 mil thick), wetted it with 0.505 oz of epoxy and placed on a hotwired piece of foam. I had to use 0.840 oz of micro slurry (1:1 ratio of epoxy and micro baloons) to seal the foam. No pure epoxy was brushed on the foam. The temp was 76 degF, relative humidity was 42%. These is how the numbers looked like. Second column has per sq ft weights: Area: 0.80 sq ft 1.00 sq-ft Foam : 1.285 oz N/A with Micro: 2.125 oz N/A Glass: 0.465 oz 0.58 (5.22 oz/sq-yd?) computed Epoxy: 0.505 oz 0.63 oz/sq-ft Micro : 0.840 oz 1.05 oz/sq-ft Total (no foam) 1. 810 oz 2.26 oz/sq-ft Glass/Epoxy ratio 48:52 (by weight) Note the weight of slurry. Polystyrene has big cells!! I should have calculated the volumetric ratio. From AS&S catalog the specific gravity of Ez Poxy is 1.14, but I do not have specific gravity of glass fiber at this time. I would think that glass is a little heavier. I would appriciate if someone with a mechanical engineer handbook can post it. A ccording to the relevant litrature a 40:60 glass/epoxy volumetric ratio is the best. Some epoxy does seeps into the foam, even if it is sealed, so I would think 50:50 ratio should be more appropiate. The final piece looks real good and the weave is perfectly straight. I would strongly recommend this method because it allows better quality control over the traditional method of pouring the resin over dry glass. That is what I plan to use for all the layups on my KR. After all this experimentation, I decided to glass the top of the elevator. I chose top first because it is loaded in tension so its constuction quality is less critical than the bottom, which is loaded in compression. I measured exact area to be glassed and weighed right amount of resin and micro slurry. Unfortunately, I was not able to separate the plastic from the fiberglass, which ended up in a messy jumble. Plastic was really stiff. Six mil plastic sheet is too thick. I would go with 3 mil or less next time. So, I cut a new fiberglass piece in a hurry and had to lay it up in the traditional method. I did have to add 2 extra oz of resin to each side make sure the glass was adequately wet. The final result is acceptable, although a little resin rich. Tomorrow I'll get thinner plastic sheet and try it again. In retrospect, I should have made a larger practice layup. So stay tuned for more progress :-) Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Emergency Proceedures (in light of how not to get out) From: "Paul O'Reilly" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 06:58:09 -0400 X-Message-Number: 2 One of the troubles with making a set of KR EP's is that there are so man= y varients of the model. I plan to make a set of procedures for my KR as I= have AF experience and know that the military dosen't put that much emphasis on something that doesn't matter. The KR net might be a good stimulus to get this job done. = Paul Beechman@Compuserve.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: carburators From: tom Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 09:31:35 -0400 X-Message-Number: 3 mike cochran wrote: > > Can someone tell me about zenith carbs. > I have 2. One has a bore of 1.295. > The other is 1.410 in. Which one would be best > for 1968 CC VW. > Thanks Mike Cochran > > Mike, I have heard that a general guideline is that the bore should be about the same size as your intake valve. Tom Crawford toys@atlantic.net Gainesville, FL N262TC ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Dumb carb question From: tom Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 09:37:20 -0400 X-Message-Number: 4 Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > Hello, Netters > > Here is a carb question which might be simple... I just haven't seen a > simple answer. Is there an easy way to determine what carb CFM rating to be > looking for based on engine size, RPM, or-? I guess you could get the > engine displacement and RPM and calculate theoretical CFM, but this doesn't > seem to work based on carb recommendations I've seen. > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, Oregon > website at http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/ > > Oscar, I have seen that formula. It's in one of the books that Steve Bennet sells. I wrote it down at one time, but of course, I cant find it now. Dont recall the exact name of the book, but it has to do with mathematics for engine building. Steve could probably tell us without looking it up. Steve? Tom Crawford toys@atlantic.net Gainesville, FL N262TC ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Any Aviation Weather Services on the web?? From: R5t0ut1@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 09:39:12 EDT X-Message-Number: 5 In a message dated 7/17/99 5:57:15 AM !!!First Boot!!!, tomkr2s@t-three.com writes: << How about Weather Depiction Charts, Radar Charts, and Significant Weather Prognostic charts? Is there any place they can be viewed? -Tom >> You'll need to download the Cirrus Program . Then you'll be able to veiw these charts. Randy Stout -KR-2S Las Vegas NV ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Dumb carb question From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:32:43 -0500 X-Message-Number: 6 Air capacity in CFM = (rpm x displacement) / 3456, with displacement in cubic inches. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:04:16 -0700 X-Message-Number: 7 Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > > I'm working on my left wing using UV Smooth Prime. I rolled on the > required 6 coats and sanded the top of the wing. My question is: after > all that work I still have lots of weave depressions that didn't fill>>>> Use superfil to fill the weave and any depressions. Smooth prime is for pin holes and such not for filling dents, depressions, weave, etc. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Weights From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:07:41 -0700 X-Message-Number: 8 Henning Mortensen wrote: > > > > Great, how about if everyone just weigh stuff, give a full description of > what the weight is of, and post it. I will build a database/spreadsheet and > every once in a while send it to krnet Don't send any file attachments to the KRnet unless you want the wrath of the net moms upon you! :o) As someone mentioned I already started gathering weight info and have posted it on a web site. If you want to gather more info I suggest building a web page and using the info on mine is a good start. Here is the URL: http://a51.wetworks.org/Weights.html -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: DIY Fiberglass gear legs From: Willard561@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 11:12:50 EDT X-Message-Number: 9 Gary: If you can't find a copy of it I will send you a copy Ron Scotts article describing how he made his fiberglass gear legs Bill Higdon Willard561@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: "Wayne DeLisle Sr." Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 11:16:54 -0400 X-Message-Number: 10 At 08:04 AM 7/17/99 -0700, you wrote: >Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: >> >> I'm working on my left wing using UV Smooth Prime. I rolled on the >> required 6 coats and sanded the top of the wing. My question is: after >> all that work I still have lots of weave depressions that didn't fill>>>> > > >Use superfil to fill the weave and any depressions. Smooth prime is for >pin holes and such not for filling dents, depressions, weave, etc. Hi Mike, I've been debating in my mind the issue of what foam to use and how to use it. The hot wired wing cores that you did look great and real easy to do, also, the process Mark Langford uses with the urethane foam looks good as well. With Marks process, you have 2 sides of the foam to fill the pores in. I wonder if it would be a good thing to fill the foam pores with Superfil before glassing? I see the possibility of filling and sanding the core before glassing and maybe getting a better finish with less work and less weight. What do you think? WD --------------------------------------------------------- Wayne DeLisle Sr. Charlotte, North Carolina USA mailto:dodger@accessnode.net http://accessnode.net/~dodger --------------------------------------------------------- Project Viking "Daring to venture forward from the Dark Ages" online FAQ/manual at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Homemade fiberglass gear legs From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:16:19 -0700 X-Message-Number: 11 Someone was chatting about making their own gear legs. This is actually what the Dragonfly guys are doing because the factory gear cost so damn much and the design pretty much sucks. With he Dragonfly criteria in hand I added up the cost of all the materials to build your own legs and mounting brackets as well as brackets for axles and the axles themselves (I think the DD gear comes with them) and I found that you would save about $50 to build them yourself. Do yourself a favor and buy the drop tested gear from Dan! Saving $50 and spending 300 hours building gear that might not work is silly! -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Couneracting yaw From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:21:32 -0700 X-Message-Number: 12 Tobin Dunham wrote: > > Ok, when I hit the 'send' button, I realized that it may not always be left > yaw. I guess it depends on what engine you're using. >> You hit the nail on the head, This will depend on which engine you use. The small high revving VW has much less torque than say an O-200 or O-235. So its possible you don't need any offset at all. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Fiber glass layup results From: MARVIN MCCOY Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 20:30:26 -0700 X-Message-Number: 13 Practicing and doing test layups is great, and it will save you time and money later. But I think you have the ratio of glass/epoxy backwords. It should be 60% glass & 40 % resin. To much resin will make a layup very weak. Good luck. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field. ---------------------------------- HAshraf@aol.com wrote: > > Hi Gang, > > Have never done any fiberglass work before so last week I spent some time > practicing some layups. . According to the relevant litrature a 40:60 glass/epoxy volumetric ratio is > the best. Some epoxy does seeps into the foam, even if it is sealed, so I > would think 50:50 ratio should be more appropiate. > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:33:51 -0700 X-Message-Number: 14 "Wayne DeLisle Sr." wrote: > > I wonder if it would be a good thing to fill the foam pores with Superfil > before glassing? I see the possibility of filling and sanding the core before > glassing and maybe getting a better finish with less work and less weight. > > What do you think? > For the longest time that was considered a big no-no but there are some LongEZ guys doing just that. I think this would only work with the blue foam as the urethane foam would fall apart. Also this seems like more work to me, I would rather slurry the foam and apply the glass like the old school guys. No matter what method you use you will need to use "some" filler. Also it sounds like some of you are a little confused about filling and sanding. According to Burt you are supposed to apply filler all over the airframe (not just the dents) and sand it smooth. The Europa plans cover this much better than the KR plans. The most important thing is to make sure you don't sand into the fiberglass. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:33:58 -0500 X-Message-Number: 15 Wayne DeLisle Sr.wrote: > I wonder if it would be a good thing to fill the foam pores with Superfil > before glassing? I see the possibility of filling and sanding the core before > glassing and maybe getting a better finish with less work and less weight. You don't want to put anything on the foam before the glass, other than runny micro. And whatever you put on it, you want to apply only a few minutes before applying the glass. Imagine sanding Super Fil on foam. Hard crusty stuff (by comparison) and super soft foam. You'll end up with a surface that'll take years to finish. Just make every effort to sand the foam as smooth as possible, micro it and glass it, and you'll be there. I figured that the weight penalty for my method is under a pound per wing. I weighed everything I put on the foam, subtracted what I saved (no ribs) and the numbers are very close. But wings are a lot stronger. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne DeLisle Sr. To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, July 17, 1999 10:16 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Filling/ Priming > At 08:04 AM 7/17/99 -0700, you wrote: > >Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > >> > >> I'm working on my left wing using UV Smooth Prime. I rolled on the > >> required 6 coats and sanded the top of the wing. My question is: after > >> all that work I still have lots of weave depressions that didn't fill>>>> > > > > > >Use superfil to fill the weave and any depressions. Smooth prime is for > >pin holes and such not for filling dents, depressions, weave, etc. > > Hi Mike, > > I've been debating in my mind the issue of what foam to use and how to > use it. > > The hot wired wing cores that you did look great and real easy to do, > also, the process Mark Langford uses with the urethane foam looks > good as well. > > With Marks process, you have 2 sides of the foam to fill the pores in. > > I wonder if it would be a good thing to fill the foam pores with Superfil > before glassing? I see the possibility of filling and sanding the core before > glassing and maybe getting a better finish with less work and less weight. > > What do you think? > > WD > > --------------------------------------------------------- > Wayne DeLisle Sr. > Charlotte, North Carolina USA > mailto:dodger@accessnode.net > http://accessnode.net/~dodger > --------------------------------------------------------- > Project Viking "Daring to venture forward from the Dark Ages" > online FAQ/manual at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: langford@hiwaay.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:42:27 -0500 X-Message-Number: 16 >According to Burt you are supposed to apply > filler all over the airframe (not just the dents) and sand it smooth. I know that's what he says, but I sure don't get the point. Seems like you'd lose the "real" shape of the airfoil doing this, not to mention waaaay too much sanding. I know there's the "fish line" method, and all these other methods, but I've found that if you get the foam perfect and glass it, you wont have much filling to do at all! The big area of concern on KRs is the spars, and I just intentionally make them about 1/16" short so that the filling always goes down on the narrow spar (OVER the glass, not under it), rather than up on a huge area of wing. Couple that with the silky fine deck cloth, and there just about aren't any pinholes either. The result is lighter and quicker to make, but more expensive because of the $4 a yard deck cloth. It all depends on what you've got more of. I figure $4 a yard is cheap compared to the time required to fill a yard's worth of pinholes. Of course Burt's built lots of wings and mine aren't done yet, so the jury's still out on this, but my horizontal stab sure looks nice... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Parachutes and eXperimentals From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 08:50:04 -0700 X-Message-Number: 17 Someone on the list mentioned that the RV guy who bailed out of his burning plane should have been using a chute during his test flying. Well I think the test flying was over and he was just on a pleasure flight. I plan to wear a personal chute during the stall and spin portion of my test flying but wearing one after I am satisfied the airplane is safe would be pretty inconvenient don't you think? There are two situations that I hope I never face in an airplane, one is catching on fire the other is structural failure. Something that some of you are forgetting, flying can and will be DANGEROUS. Think about this when you are implementing a change as this should be your most important decision maker. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: "Dean Collette" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 11:04:51 -0500 X-Message-Number: 18 Mike Mims wrote: > According to Burt you are supposed to apply > filler all over the airframe (not just the dents) and sand it smooth. > The Europa plans cover this much better than the KR plans. The most > important thing is to make sure you don't sand into the fiberglass. If you use Mark Langford's suggestion and apply a layer of very fine cloth as a pinhole killer, I found that you don't need the filler all over everything - just the low spots. When sanding, the deck cloth will protect the underlying structural layers. You can see where you start getting into the glass. A few brushes with the sander against the deck cloth won't do any damage, and it will show you where you need to add more filler or sand a little more. It does add a little cost to the overall project (the stuff is a little more then $4 / yd.), but the savings in time and effort is huge. The weight penelty is minimal (1.8 oz. / yd.) I usually do the layup, and then apply the deck cloth. The fine weave cloth will soak up extra epoxy in areas that are a little too rich, and it will show me where I need a little more juice. In areas where there are 2 sections of cloth are overlapping, the deck cloth does a better job then peel-ply in smoothing out the joint. I still use peel-ply in areas that need it - but that's over joints any more. Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 14:27:34 EDT X-Message-Number: 19 In a message dated 99-07-17 11:20:54 EDT, you write: << I wonder if it would be a good thing to fill the foam pores with Superfil before glassing? >> According to Sports Plane article, Basics of Composite Construction by Ron Alexander (June 1999 pp102-107) Superfil may be used for polystryene foam. I did not use it because I did not know whether superfil is compatible with Ez Poxy. Use thinner consistency slurry for urethane foam (Rutan: Composite construction manual). Superfil may not penetrate its small pores. If you are a good craftsman you should have success with any kind of foam. Otherwise hotwiring produces really nice cores. Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Fiber glass layup results From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 14:29:03 EDT X-Message-Number: 20 In a message dated 99-07-17 11:32:34 EDT, you write: << But I think you have the ratio of glass/epoxy backwords. It should be 60% glass & 40 % resin. To much resin will make a layup very weak. Good luck. >> My mistake. its 40% resin and 60% glass. Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Any Aviation Weather Services on the web??Thanks everyone! From: "Tom Andersen" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 15:12:48 -0400 X-Message-Number: 21 Thanks Randy and all others who responded, I am now really hooked up with all the weather info and charts I could ever want. The Cirrus program makes it so much easier to get the DUATS reports. The link Tom C mentioned was excellent also, with the METARS and other services in html format, open to non-pilots as well at www.earthwatch.com/SKYWATCH/skywatch.html . Looks like some kind of automatic program logs into DUATS, downloads everything new, and converts it to html documents for the general public. Good thing to remember if you can't get to DUATS, or aren't home, but have internet access, like at a friend's house away from home. -Tom A. -----Original Message----- From: R5t0ut1@aol.com To: KR-net users group Date: Saturday, July 17, 1999 9:38 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Any Aviation Weather Services on the web?? >In a message dated 7/17/99 5:57:15 AM !!!First Boot!!!, tomkr2s@t-three.com >writes: > ><< How about Weather Depiction Charts, Radar Charts, and Significant Weather > Prognostic charts? Is there any place they can be viewed? > -Tom >> > >You'll need to download the HREF="http://www.duats.com/cirrus.html">Cirrus Program >. Then you'll be able to veiw these charts. > >Randy Stout -KR-2S >Las Vegas NV > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: tomkr2s@t-three.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: D-fly Canopy Call in - Last chance From: "Dean Collette" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 14:25:48 -0500 X-Message-Number: 22 There are still a few guys that haven't called me yet with credit card information. I should be home on Monday (7/19/99) almost all day. You can reach me at (414) 860-1185. You are welcome to try me this weekend, but I will probably be in and out a lot. Also, remember the entire order must be at Slipstream on Wednesday (7/21/99) so for those of you that are sending checks - they must be here by that date. If you haven't heard from me yet - I haven't gotten your check. Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: my new website From: "Tobin Dunham" Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 12:35:51 PDT X-Message-Number: 23 krnetters, I now have a homepage that will I will be updating for my KR project. For those of you that were interested in the 3d model, I have some images posted, and will be updating as the model progresses and the construction begins. The URL will be down at the bottom of this message by my name. And by the way, it's sad to hear the news about JFK Jr. Much confusion and guessing would have been saved if he had filed a flight plan... Toby Dunham Houston, TX homepage at http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Runway/7013 _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Stupid question of the day From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 18:48:33 -0700 X-Message-Number: 24 Aubrey Dunham wrote: > > Hi everybody, > My name is Aubrey Dunham, and I've been 'lurking' for a couple of > weeks. I've looked through the plans extensively, and have several > questions. However, I'll keep this email to one question: > The 'boat' is comprised of longerons and cross-members. Then the > plywood skin is added. After everything else is done, you glass over > the plywood to get a smooth surface. The plans do NOT specify glassing over the plywood, however some builders have done this. I have heard of some builders glassing the structure instead of using plywood, there was one like this at the KR fly-in last summer but not in flyable condition (not yet finished). I would build with the plywood, and use some type of filler primer to smooth the surface. Too much weight and work to glass over the ply, and too much work to get a smooth surface glassing the spruce. Thats only my two cents however. -- Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Fuel tank From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 18:56:13 -0700 X-Message-Number: 25 To add to Marks comments. I have built my fuel tanks per plans. The header tank is not so bad, but the wing tanks... leak. Right now I think the leak is at the fuel sending unit flange, but the wings have to come off for further testing/repairs. I tested them with water, but since then the fuel senders have been replaced, so I'm hoping the leak is with the gasket. I'll let everyone know. The key to this information is to test your tanks before building them into the wings. -- Regards Ross Mark Langford wrote: > > > Anybody out there fabricate their own fuel tank? What epoxy, glass and > foam core would you recommend? Did you use a mold type or glass/foam/glass > sandwich type? > > Man, you've got a lot of web readin' to do. Start at > http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kmarkl.html with "header tank" and then > "wing tanks". And when you're done, start over at > http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford and look at everybody elses work... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Dynel From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 18:59:43 -0700 X-Message-Number: 26 Henning, Check the archives, I think we posted some weight info there. One of these days I will weigh my HEAVY wings and share the info with the group. -- Regards Ross Henning Mortensen wrote: > > Last year I bought a partial kr2. One thing I noticed is that the wings have > the glass not laid on bias. This concerns me and I am thinking I should > rebuild the wings. > > I have two sets of plans, one new, one 1977 vintage. This plane was built > under the 77 plans and I was reading those last night. There is no mention > of laying stuff on bias and there is even a picture of Ken and Stu laying > cloth on straight. But of course they were using Dynel. > > What I am wondering is, was the weave of Dynel such that there was no need > to lay it on bias? Any one with historical perspective? > > Also, just an idea. I have this fuse, and these wings and I don't know if > they are heavy or light. We should start getting a database of component > weights so that a builder can compare parts rather then the final weight of > the entire airplane. I would rather rebuild a wing then have a heavy > airplane. I would be willing to compile such a list if there is interest and > people were willing to weigh projects as they are being built. > > Henning Mortensen > Regina Sk. Canada > > ps. I notice there are getting to be a lot of us western canadians here. Any > interest in a regional get together at some point? We could plan on meeting > in Calgary or such > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Kr-1 From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 19:04:40 -0700 X-Message-Number: 27 On my KR-2 I built three plywood bulkheads. I started with cardboard, then shaped the cardboard to the size I wanted. I folded the templates in half for symmetry. Then I made full size plywood (1/4") templates and "C" clamped them into place. I just happened to have several 1/8" angle pieces to drill lips onto the plywood, and clamped it to the longerons. Then I foamed to the contour of the templates. -- Ross SClay10106@aol.com wrote: > > I have been looking over the plans to the kr-1 and i am having a hard time > understanding how the rear deck and canopy are constructed. Are they > styrofoam cut into the shape and covered in fiberglass? Or is there wood > frames under all this > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Bug in system,/ ret. gear From: Ross Youngblood Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 12:00:12 -0700 X-Message-Number: 28 I'm skeptical about kr-net having a bug that would erase email on Juno... but if anyone can confirm this, I will have teleport network admin people look into it. -- Regards Ross krnet@krnet.org rossy@teleport.com kr-net admin Michael Taglieri wrote: > > I have Juno basic which I thought was safe because it's unable to > transmit attachments. Is that what you have, and still got a bug? > > Mike Taglieri > > >Hi everyone, I just want to let all of you know that I received a bug, > >or some kind of contamination from this KR-net. It was not a virous, > >but something. I lost all the peoples names and 'e' addresses that > >wanted the gear design. So those of you that wanted that please 'e' > >me again. > > > >This is my game computer that has the juno. The one that has my > >architectural work on it has it's own system and internet access with > >'e' mail on a completely different computer. So I'm sure that the > >problem came from this as it was only my juno that was inop. I never > >opened any attachments. So fellows, watch out for any thing that you > >think might be supissious. > > ___________________________________________________________________ > Get the Internet just the way you want it. > Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! > Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Any Aviation Weather Services on the web?? From: Ross Youngblood Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 12:04:49 -0700 X-Message-Number: 29 I have used both http://www.duats.com and the Cirrus software. I like the web only version, as I never have enough disk space on my laptop so the web version saves disk space. I have recently used it for cross country trips. It's SLOW, but you get good weather maps (color) that you can print, and I file my VFR flight plans using airways. Works pretty good, but if you type in the wrong thing for the route, you get errors -- it's picky. Then after filing, and getting weather, I still call 1-800-WXBRIEF to get weather (abbr briefing). The downside is that the flight plans don't transmit until about 30 min to 1 hr before departure, so if you call FSS to change somthing in the flight plan, they won't have it until then. I like it as you can do all types of "what-if" planning without calling a briefer. The 800 cust service number is good now too, you can call on weekends to get your password if you forgot. -- Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Weight and Balance, C.G. Display Gauge From: GARYKR2@cs.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 17:23:01 EDT X-Message-Number: 30 It all depends on the finished cost. If you could stay within 2or 3 hundred dollors, I would buy one Gary Hinkle Middletown, Pa. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Try this again From: cartera Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 19:02:46 -0600 X-Message-Number: 31 Mark Langford Tried to send you an attachment 22k on my antennae installation but every time I sent it, tried all last week, it was returned to me. Does your ISP reject attachments? Just tried another direct, got it back! -- Adrian VE6AFY Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Fuel Lines From: FLYKR2S@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 21:53:55 EDT X-Message-Number: 32 Hi KR'ers, Time to put the fuel line fittings on my fuel tank so I can finish up the tank and the front deck. I will be using a VW 2180. What size fuel lines are you using with this engine on a gravity flow system? Any input will be a great help. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@aol.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Filling/ Priming From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 22:04:25 -0400 X-Message-Number: 33 I gotta tell you this stuff is thick(UV Smooth Prime) thicker than latex house paint. It really seemed to me that it would have enough filler to handle the weave.I just sqeeged a test spot on my right wing, I'll let everyone know how it worked on Sun. Kenny On Fri, 16 Jul 1999 07:55:09 EDT KR2616TJ@aol.com writes: >In a message dated 7/15/99 10:06:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >klw1953@juno.com writes: > ><< I'm working on my left wing using UV Smooth Prime. I rolled on the > required 6 coats and sanded the top of the wing. My question is: >after > all that work I still have lots of weave depressions that didn't fill > properly, so I guess now it's back to the primer. I was thinking that >on > my right wing maybe I should have squeeged the first coat coat on to >fill > in the weave first. What do you guys think? Thanks, Kenny >> > >I guess the question here is did you use peel ply or a deck cloth to >get a >good final surface? > >Smooth Prime is used primarily as a primer that has properties to fill >pin >holes. You are going to have to put a lot of material on to fill >weave. I >believe Mike Mims experimented with adding a little micro to a batch >of >Smooth Prime to fill in some weave areas with success. Just remember >this >stuff is water based and you apply it in thin coats so the layers are >extremely thin. > >In all of the applications I've done, including the forum, I've never >squeeged it on. I talked with Jon at Poly Fiber two days ago. He is >sending >material for the forum at the gathering along with materials for door >prizes. >When I get it, I'll try and thicken some up and see what happens. > >Dana Overall >1999 KR Gathering host >Richmond, KY >mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: klw1953@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Fuel Lines From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 21:09:40 -0700 X-Message-Number: 34 FLYKR2S@aol.com wrote: > > Hi KR'ers, > > Time to put the fuel line fittings on my fuel tank so I can finish up the > tank and the front deck. I will be using a VW 2180. What size fuel lines are > you using with this engine on a gravity flow system? Any input will be a > great help. > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) Your best bet would be to go with 3/8 fuel line (ID on rubber type hose). -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: D-fly Canopy Call in - Last chance From: John Esch Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 21:52:27 -0700 X-Message-Number: 35 Dean What was the final price on the canopy again? John Dean Collette wrote: > > There are still a few guys that haven't called me yet with credit card > information. > > I should be home on Monday (7/19/99) almost all day. You can reach me > at (414) 860-1185. You are welcome to try me this weekend, but I will > probably be in and out a lot. > > Also, remember the entire order must be at Slipstream on Wednesday > (7/21/99) so for those of you that are sending checks - they must be > here by that date. If you haven't heard from me yet - I haven't gotten > your check. > > Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin > mailto:drdean@execpc.com > Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfesch@home.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Cockpit Fires From: "Christopher Stewart" <23cs@msn.com> Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 21:56:30 X-Message-Number: 36 Ive noticed the concern about cockpit fires, so ive come across something that might be of use to us all, working in the mines here in WV we have to go by laws and saftey that well, keep are asses alive, one that caught my eye in the shop one day was a fire retardent paint made by a company calle d Fire Control, the thing about this paint is that once its heated it puffs up forming a foam layer to protect what ever its on, after testing it it worked pretty good, it puffed up about .25" after about 45 sec of direct flame contact with a lighter(poor mans testing lab, it goes on just like latex paint, its water soluble and can be put on in multible coats, give me a day or 2 and ill get the technical data on this particular paint ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: D-fly Canopy Call in - Last chance From: "Dean Collette" Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 00:56:08 -0500 X-Message-Number: 37 John, The final price of the clear canopy is $445 and the tinted are $495. Shipping is extra, and will vary depending on the method that you prefer. All are shipped freight collect, and for those canopies that are to be shipped from the Slipstream headquarters you will need to add about $15-20 for shipping from the factory to Slipstream. Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: John Esch To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, July 17, 1999 11:52 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: D-fly Canopy Call in - Last chance > Dean > > What was the final price on the canopy again? > > John > > Dean Collette wrote: > > > > There are still a few guys that haven't called me yet with credit card > > information. > > > > I should be home on Monday (7/19/99) almost all day. You can reach me > > at (414) 860-1185. You are welcome to try me this weekend, but I will > > probably be in and out a lot. > > > > Also, remember the entire order must be at Slipstream on Wednesday > > (7/21/99) so for those of you that are sending checks - they must be > > here by that date. If you haven't heard from me yet - I haven't gotten > > your check. > > > > Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin > > mailto:drdean@execpc.com > > Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfesch@home.com > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: drdean@execpc.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com