From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Sunday, August 01, 1999 12:18 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: July 31, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Saturday, July 31, 1999. 1. Re: Oshkosh Update 2. Re: Oshkosh Update 3. Re: 178 Seconds To Live 4. Trim tab servo 5. Re: Broken Canopy 6. Re: elevator presure and feel 7. Re: Trim tab servo 8. Re: Trim tab servo 9. Canopy repair 10. Re: Broken Canopy 11. Re: Trim tab servo 12. Re: elevator presure and feel 13. Re: 178 Seconds To Live 14. Re: 178 Seconds To Live 15. Re: Broken Canopy 16. Re: Trim tab servo 17. A suggestion 18. Re: N541RY Progress Report (Paint & Fuel System) 19. Re: Trim tab servo 20. Re: Trim tab servo (mac servos) 21. Troy's plane 22. Re: Canopy repair 23. Re: Broken Canopy 24. Project update 25. Re: oshkosh 26. Re: Project update 27. Re: Project update 28. Re: Troy's plane 29. Re: 178 Seconds To Live ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Oshkosh Update From: Mark Jones Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 04:27:52 -0500 X-Message-Number: 1 Dean Collette wrote: > "here's your free Icom IC-A22 handheld. Enjoy!" You lucky dog!!!!!! I'll give you 50 for it..... :0) haha. I'm leaving in a few minutes to go win mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mark Jones ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Oshkosh Update From: Mark Jones Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 04:41:43 -0500 X-Message-Number: 2 Mark Jones wrote: > Dean Collette wrote: > > > "here's your free Icom IC-A22 handheld. Enjoy!" > > You lucky dog!!!!!! I'll give you 50 for it..... :0) haha. > > I'm leaving in a few minutes to go win > mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Mark Jones > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: flykr2s@execpc.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com Sorry Guys, it's 4:30 in the morn. I meant to send this direct to Dr Dean. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: 178 Seconds To Live From: Tim Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 03:36:15 -0600 X-Message-Number: 3 178 seconds...remember that most of any of the other 'stuff' from ground school 15 yrs ago...made an impression on me...no shizen! Here in Canada, 5hrs instrument time is required for a basic Private Pilot licence (PPL)...My Night endorsement was another 10hrs. We also have Spin training up here, which you must preform for the designated inspector on your Govt flight test. My examiner set me up for slow flight by asking me to reduce rpm's, hence I was using peddle work to pick up the oncoming stalling ...Then as the rpm's came back further 'BINGO' We have Rotation Houston...'Pare'-(Power, Ailrons, Rudder, Elevator) that 'little' push forward on the elevator, wasn't needed most of the Cessna (spams) that I've spun....ain't Flying just great... Tim...Cold Lake Hey NASA (Never A Straight Answer) Hope there isn't a City at the bottom of that dark 250 mile wide Crater...oops! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Trim tab servo From: "John Martindale" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 4:42:40 X-Message-Number: 4 Hi folks I'm about to glass up my elevator and have decided to use the MAC servo for the trim tab. I found some early stuff in the archives about this and after speaking to Mark Langford decided to pose the following to you for comment. Which model MAC servo(they all have different length throws)? How is it mounted...by bracket off the spar or by doubler under the skin? What is its dimensions? Do you use the integral tab as per plans or hinge a separate surface off the trailing edge? Aircraft Spruce have the S4A advertised for US$175 which includes switches, harness and a multi position LED indicator. Thanks for your help, Mark. Boat and tail feather inspection tomorrow!! See Ya John. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Broken Canopy From: "Rod Kelso" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 06:53:17 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 You can also use a small masonary bit. It grinds away instead of screwing it self in like a twist bit. Rod Kelso Denver, Colo rbk@orci.com ---------- > From: MARVIN MCCOY > To: KR-net users group > Subject: [kr-net] Re: Broken Canopy > Date: Saturday, July 31, 1999 10:06 AM > > Austin and Connie Clark wrote: > > > > I have been working on my canopy frame and in the process I have cracked my > > canopy!! > The first thing I thought > > about was to drill a hole at the end of the crack to try to stop it from > > getting any worse. Anyone have any experience with this? > > -------------- > > According to Tony Bengelis and other books I have read you need to use > a dull drill bit. Or you can grind or file the point or cutting edge > down so the bit does not cut its way through the plastic but just grinds > its way through. A sharp bit will grab and crack the plastic further. > The hole does not have to be that big. Hope this helps. > > Talking about canopies and plastic,.. I was over at the Boeing surplus > yard today. They had stacks and stacks of 4 X 8 sheets of Lexan and > other poly carbonate. It was marked $34.00 a sheet. Problem was they > would not sell any of it to me because their supplier found out they > were selling it to the public and told them to stop. I guess they had > something in their contract with Boeing that any surplus goes back to > the supplier and not to the general public. > > Marvin McCoy > Seattle, WA, North end of Boeing field > ------------------- > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rbk@orci.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: elevator presure and feel From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 08:10:12 -0500 X-Message-Number: 6 >The question is!!! Is this going to make > a hill of beans when I ever get this bird in the air. That's what everybody else's unbalanced elevator does too, so don't worry about it. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Trim tab servo From: Donald Reid Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 09:22:45 -0400 X-Message-Number: 7 > I'm about to glass up my elevator and have decided to use the MAC servo for > the trim tab. > Which model MAC servo(they all have different length throws)? How is it > mounted...by bracket off the spar or by doubler under the skin? I have a MAC and I think that it is great. A quality product. I got the one with a 1" throw and it is too much, but it will do. I should have gotten the next shorter. Mine is installed in the fuselage and has a pushrod through the stab/elevator to the tab. The tab is just like the plans. I used a model airplane pushrod, but it was too flexible and I did not like the installation of the connectors. But, it had a hole in the nylon pushrod that would accept a piece of 1/16" welding rod. The welding rod is now the structural part of the linkage and the original nylon pushrod allows the entire thing to slide back and forth. I should have a photo when I update the web page next week. The pic's are not back from the drugstore yet. -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Trim tab servo From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 09:48:05 EDT X-Message-Number: 8 In a message dated 7/31/99 7:44:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, john.martindale@bigpond.com.au writes: << How is it mounted...by bracket off the spar or by doubler under the skin? What is its dimensions? Do you use the integral tab as per plans or hinge a separate surface off the trailing edge? >> I used the 4A which has least throw. It is about 2 x 2 1/2 x 1. I mounted mine on the underneath side of the elevator using a bracket bolted onto the elevator spar. It fits like it was made for the stock KR elevator. Use the same mounting bracket on your trim tab and simply run a push rod direct from the servo. They work like a charm. Dana Overall 1999 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Canopy repair From: RFG842@aol.com Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 10:30:14 EDT X-Message-Number: 9 Drill a hole at the end of the crack so that the crack will not proceed further, usually 1/8" will do. Drill another hole 2 to 3 inches from the end of the crack for a 10/32 bolt and use a washer on both sides of the plastic. Gently tighten the bolt and fill the crack with super glue. If the crack is more than 3 or 4 inches, more than one bolt should be used. This repair should hold the canopy together until it is trimmed and glassed into the stiffeners. Have seen this type of repair hold up for years on operating aircraft. When drilling holes in plastic, a flat grind on the drill bit should be used. Instead of regrinding the drill bits, I have found success in using my Dremmel and very little pressure. Good luck, Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Broken Canopy From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 07:26:33 -0700 X-Message-Number: 10 Austin and Connie Clark wrote: > > The first thing I thought about was to drill a hole at the end of the crack to try to stop it from getting any worse. Anyone have any experience with this? What size hole, > Use a small (1/16") drill bit in a high speed drill (dremal tool if you have one). Make sure you center the hole right at the end of the crack. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Mirror Site http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Trim tab servo From: tom Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 11:48:01 -0400 X-Message-Number: 11 John Martindale wrote: > > Hi folks > > I'm about to glass up my elevator and have decided to use the MAC servo for > the trim tab. I found some early stuff in the archives about this and after > speaking to Mark Langford decided to pose the following to you for comment. > Which model MAC servo(they all have different length throws)? How is it > mounted...by bracket off the spar or by doubler under the skin? What is its > dimensions? Do you use the integral tab as per plans or hinge a separate > surface off the trailing edge? Aircraft Spruce have the S4A advertised for > US$175 which includes switches, harness and a multi position LED indicator. > Thanks for your help, Mark. Boat and tail feather inspection tomorrow!! > > I used the middle one, I forget the model number. I am VERY pleased with it. Mounted it to the back of the elevator spar. Like Dana said, it fits perfectly. If I were to do it again, I would make the trim tab bigger. Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Mailto:toys@atlantic.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: elevator presure and feel From: tom Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 12:03:12 -0400 X-Message-Number: 12 MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > > I just finished hooking up my control cables to the elevator and > aileron belcrank. I did not balance my elevator. Therefore the weight > of the elevator puts pressure on the stick so when I move the elevator > up, it takes more pressure then when I move the elevator down. Going > down it just falls by itself. The question is!!! Is this going to make > a hill of beans when I ever get this bird in the air. Other then this > small glitch it's pretty neat to finally be able to move the elevator > with the stick. > > Marvin McCoy > Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > Marvin, For the longest time, I was not able to trim my plane slow enough on final. I would trim full nose up, and only get it down to 70-80 MPH depending on load. This makes for some very long landings. This puzzled me, because my CG was well within limits. After some experimenting, I found that at low airspeeds (short final), the weight of the elevator is no longer supported by wind flow under it and it wants to drop, hence the nose down tendency. It simply overcame the effect of my trim tab. To prove this to myself, I put a temporary spring on the elevator bellcrank adjusted so that the elevator sat horizontal while the plane was at rest. Then I flew. The first thing I noticed was the dramatic increase to the pitch sensitivity, reduced control pressure, and the inability to trim for straight and level for very long. Overall, kinda squirrely. In the pattern, tho, I found that I could trim down as far as I wanted. Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Mailto:toys@atlantic.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: 178 Seconds To Live From: "R.W. Moore" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 11:44:02 -0400 X-Message-Number: 13 It si a shame the prices that they are charging for one to get in to the affair. Sport aviation was started so the people could get into aviation with out much money. To rent a space in Oshkosh oe Lakeland has got beyond most small companys in aviation, what a shame. R. W. Moore ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Lee To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, July 31, 1999 2:18 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: 178 Seconds To Live > At 01:16 AM 7/31/99 -0400, you wrote: > >>> > 178 Seconds to Live > >>> > > >>> > How long can a pilot who has little or no instrument training > expect to live after he flies into bad weather and loses visual contact? > >Researchers at the University of Illinois did some tests and came up > with some very interesting data. . . . . > > > >I've heard about this research, but that was with people who had no > >instrument training. The FAA has long required VFR pilots to learn > >enough to keep the plane straight and level, and to make a 180. If a > >certain celebrity pilot had made that 180, he'd probably still be alive > >today. > > > >Mike Taglieri > > > This scenario would also apply to a pilot who is not current in such > IFR flight. The person in question exercised poor judgement in taking > off in such conditions...then (if he had an autopilot), disengaging the > autopilot before he had clear reference to land/lights. > > A week ago I went with an instructor to refresh my ability to fly on > instruments alone and right the aircraft from non-level flight. > > My saving grace is I know I am not the best pilot around and I get > additional training as required or limit myself appropriately. > > Ron Lee > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: 178 Seconds To Live From: "R.W. Moore" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 11:44:41 -0400 X-Message-Number: 14 ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Lee To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, July 31, 1999 2:18 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: 178 Seconds To Live > At 01:16 AM 7/31/99 -0400, you wrote: > >>> > 178 Seconds to Live > >>> > > >>> > How long can a pilot who has little or no instrument training > expect to live after he flies into bad weather and loses visual contact? > >Researchers at the University of Illinois did some tests and came up > with some very interesting data. . . . . > > > >I've heard about this research, but that was with people who had no > >instrument training. The FAA has long required VFR pilots to learn > >enough to keep the plane straight and level, and to make a 180. If a > >certain celebrity pilot had made that 180, he'd probably still be alive > >today. > > > >Mike Taglieri > > > This scenario would also apply to a pilot who is not current in such > IFR flight. The person in question exercised poor judgement in taking > off in such conditions...then (if he had an autopilot), disengaging the > autopilot before he had clear reference to land/lights. > > A week ago I went with an instructor to refresh my ability to fly on > instruments alone and right the aircraft from non-level flight. > > My saving grace is I know I am not the best pilot around and I get > additional training as required or limit myself appropriately. > > Ron Lee > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Broken Canopy From: "w.g. kirkland" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 13:18:49 -0400 X-Message-Number: 15 Austin: Suggest u drill a 1/4" hole at the end of the crack using a shallow anglr bit, then epoxy a one inch wide strip of glass on the top and bottom of the of the crack to keep it from spreading. Use masking tape to keep the epoxy off the rest of the canopy. Then u can use the good parts of the canopy to make ur gull wing doors and windshield. other suggestions anyone. W.G. KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------- > From: Austin and Connie Clark > To: KR-net users group > Subject: [kr-net] Broken Canopy > Date: Friday, July 30, 1999 9:54 PM > > I have been working on my canopy frame and in the process I have cracked my > canopy!! It has a crack from about the center of the back edge and running > in about 8 in slightly angled to the right side. I am trying to come up > with some options short of buying another one. The first thing I thought > about was to drill a hole at the end of the crack to try to stop it from > getting any worse. Anyone have any experience with this? What size hole, > precautions? I also thought about filling the crack with some epoxy. I plan > to build gull wing doors, so the section with the crack will be cut out and > trashed. I did not want to do this though, until I had the canopy and frame > as one piece. It is a dragonfly canopy and very flimsy. Should I go ahead > and split the canopy or bond it to the frame first. > > I was surprised at how easy it broke! You guys with Dfly canopies had > better handle them with care. Get someone to help you when you have to move > it! > > Made my day, > > Austin Clark > KR2S > Pascagoula, MS > www.datasync.com/~itac/ > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kirkland@vianet.on.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Trim tab servo From: Michael Geoghegan Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 14:45:22 -0400 X-Message-Number: 16 John Martindale wrote: > Which model MAC servo(they all have different length throws)? How is it > mounted...by bracket off the spar or by doubler under the skin? What is its > dimensions? Do you use the integral tab as per plans or hinge a separate > surface off the trailing edge? Aircraft Spruce have the S4A advertised for > US$175 which includes switches, harness and a multi position LED indicator. > Thanks for your help, Mark. Boat and tail feather inspection tomorrow!! > John I also am very pleased with the MAC servos. I used the 6A for the elevator trim and the S9 for aileron trim. These units are small enough that I was able to install them in the elevator and aileron between the top and bottom glass. I held them in place with a little minimal expansion spray foam and projected the push rod out the bottom skin to an angle on the bottom of the tab. The S9 unit is so small that it actually fit in the aileron. The other nice thing that MAC makes are stick grips with the trim controls on the top of the grip. Makes for a nice neat package. Mike Geoghegan Moretown Vermont ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: A suggestion From: DClarke351@aol.com Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 16:14:29 EDT X-Message-Number: 17 Much has been said about the ability of pilots and their instruments. Here is a suggestion. (I have done it a number of times) Get yourself a spotter in your right seat. Pick out a place to go about 50 to 100 miles away. Be sure you have an up to date chart. It would also be good if you have an attitude indicator. Install your GPS. File a VFR flight plan and go. Put your hood on and use only your instruments plus the GPS. Tell your spotter to interrupt you only if an airplane or a mountain gets in your way. Practice this, practice this, practice this and you will find that you will have a lot more confidence in using your instruments if you run into the kind of paroblem Kennedy did. Don Clarke ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: N541RY Progress Report (Paint & Fuel System) From: Krwr1@aol.com Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 17:34:27 EDT X-Message-Number: 18 In a message dated 7/30/99 5:55:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rossy@teleport.com writes: << res quickly and it's cheap. I hope to have the ailerons topcoated by the end of the weekend, and will try to melt me some lead counterweights. Any suggestions on what to use... the cardboard idea mentioned in the plans doesn't sound too good. I bought some plaster of paris to make a mold, but can't find it... >> I used a peace of foam to get the shape , then covered it with bondo . After the bondo is dry , drill a hole in it , and pour in gas or thinner .. This will dissolve the foam. then pour in the lead .then all you have to do is knock off the bondo , and file the lead to shape. worked OK for me . Bill ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Trim tab servo From: "R.W. Moore" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 20:20:56 -0400 X-Message-Number: 19 Where do you buy them? How much do they cost? R. W. Moore ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Geoghegan To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, July 31, 1999 2:45 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Trim tab servo > > > John Martindale wrote: > > > Which model MAC servo(they all have different length throws)? How is it > > mounted...by bracket off the spar or by doubler under the skin? What is its > > dimensions? Do you use the integral tab as per plans or hinge a separate > > surface off the trailing edge? Aircraft Spruce have the S4A advertised for > > US$175 which includes switches, harness and a multi position LED indicator. > > Thanks for your help, Mark. Boat and tail feather inspection tomorrow!! > > > > John > > I also am very pleased with the MAC servos. I used the 6A for the > elevator trim and the S9 for aileron trim. These units are small enough that I > was able to install them in the elevator and aileron between the top and bottom > glass. I held them in place with a little minimal expansion spray foam and > projected the push rod out the bottom skin to an angle on the bottom of the > tab. The S9 unit is so small that it actually fit in the aileron. The other > nice thing that MAC makes are stick grips with the trim controls on the top of > the grip. Makes for a nice neat package. > > Mike Geoghegan > Moretown Vermont > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Trim tab servo (mac servos) From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 18:47:46 -0700 X-Message-Number: 20 "R.W. Moore" wrote: > > Where do you buy them? How much do they cost? > R. W. Moore Dude you need an AS&S catalog bad. Or a Wicks catalog would work as well. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Mirror Site http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Troy's plane From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 21:13:09 -0500 X-Message-Number: 21 WingNuts, I just talked to Troy about his plane. He hasn't had much chance to fly it, as he's still cleaning up some of the details, but he's reached a few conclusions. He's always been very careful to know exactly where he is in the CG range, and was curious as what the new wing's CG limits were established at. With his horizontal stabilizer 4" longer (on each side) and his smaller elevator, AND the new airfoil, he says the plane is now MUCH more stable than it was, and faster, despite the fact that he lacks wheel pants and other fairings that he had before. He's had it up to 200 knots (downhill) and says at that speed it still feels very stable, much more so than with the old wing. He also attributes part of the improved stability to the slightly higher pitching moment of the new airfoil, causing the tail to work a little harder. He plans to do extensive tests to define the best CG envelope as time allows. Stalls are very mushy and not very dramatic. He also thinks that between the stability and the smaller elevator, it would be very difficult to spin it. In short, he's VERY happy with the improvement. He feels sure that he will have all of his 40 hours flown off in time to make the Gathering, so save your questions for then... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Canopy repair From: Bobby Muse Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 21:26:17 -0500 X-Message-Number: 22 At 10:30 AM 07/31/1999 EDT, you wrote: >Drill a hole at the end of the crack so that the crack will not proceed >further, usually 1/8" will do. Drill another hole 2 to 3 inches from the end >of the crack for a 10/32 bolt and use a washer on both sides of the plastic. >Gently tighten the bolt and fill the crack with super glue. If the crack is >more than 3 or 4 inches, more than one bolt should be used. > >This repair should hold the canopy together until it is trimmed and glassed >into the stiffeners. Have seen this type of repair hold up for years on >operating aircraft. > >When drilling holes in plastic, a flat grind on the drill bit should be used. >Instead of regrinding the drill bits, I have found success in using my >Dremmel and very little pressure. > >Good luck, Bob > Good advice, Bob. My Dad's KR canopy was broken in about three places(or directions)by the wind that slamed the canopy shut, opened it and slamed it shut again before my Dad could stop it at Sun'N'Fun. He just glued it together and it held for two years until he finally replaced the canopy. My short suggestion for those just starting to work with Plesaglas: (1) Make all cuts with a cut-off wheel or Dremel Tool. This actually melts thru the plexaglass therefore not leaving any sharp edges that create a point that a crack in the plexaglas may start. Like Glass, a little nick in plexaglass causes a weak stop for a rack to begin. (2) After each cut, you need to polish the edge to remove any of those little nicks in the edge that may be the point of which a crack may begin. Sometimes I use a sanding block or even a belt sander, but my favorite method to get the edge of plexaglass smooth is using a piece of hacksaw blade. I take an old hacksaw blade and break it in half(bend far enought and it will break). Then bend on each piece of the hacksaw blade to about a 90 degree bend. This creates two nice little V-shaped tools. Buy pulling the back edge of the tool or the smooth edge(not the teeth) of the blade along the edge of the plexaglass you will create a smooth rounded edge. The smoother the better. Bobby & Beverly Muse mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberley, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Broken Canopy From: Bobby Muse Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 21:26:18 -0500 X-Message-Number: 23 At 01:18 PM 07/31/1999 -0400, you wrote: >Austin: Suggest u drill a 1/4" hole at the end of the crack using a shallow >anglr bit, then epoxy a one inch wide strip of glass on the top and bottom >of the of the crack to keep it from spreading. Use masking tape to keep the >epoxy off the rest of the canopy. Then u can use the good parts of the >canopy to make ur gull wing doors and windshield. other suggestions anyone. >W.G. KIRKLAND >kirkland@vianet.on.ca > > Do not use regular masking tape on plexaglass unless you don't care about seeing thru that portion of the canopy again. Regular masking tape will etch the plexaglass permanently. Use the Blue Masking tape or if you have to use regular masking tape, don't leave it on the plexaglass surface foe very long. Bobby & Beverly Muse mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberley, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Project update From: "Dean Collette" Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 21:48:52 -0500 X-Message-Number: 24 Netters, Big day for me - My project grew legs, all three of them. My lips are still numb from making noises . . . Pics at web site below ( Project Status / Gear Legs) Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: oshkosh From: FRED SMITH Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 22:22:17 -0500 X-Message-Number: 25 Have plans for kr2s and will get started in 1-2 months. Just got back from oshkosh. went to sun and fun and saw no krs. several people at Oshkosh told me wasting my time building a KR and need to build an RV. after 2 days finally saw my first KR2. David Christenson had his there and spent 4 hours next to plane hoping to talk to him. never saw David but met 3 others building krs with 2 almost done. None of them on KRNET. The KR2 is a beautiful plane and I can't wait to get started. Have reservations and will be at flyin. Hope for ride. David- you have a very sharp plane and sorry I did not get to see you. Fred Smith ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Project update From: John Esch Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 21:00:45 -0700 X-Message-Number: 26 Dean Where did ya get your gear legs from? John F. Esch Salem, OR "Needing time, $, and more time" Dean Collette wrote: > > Netters, > > Big day for me - My project grew legs, all three of them. > > My lips are still numb from making noises . . . > > Pics at web site below ( Project Status / Gear Legs) > > Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin > mailto:drdean@execpc.com > Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfesch@home.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Project update From: "Dean Collette" Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 01:04:58 -0500 X-Message-Number: 27 John, Mike, and others who have asked about these landing gear legs, You can find all of the information you are looking for at: http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/gear.htm Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: John Esch To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, July 31, 1999 11:00 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Project update > Dean > Where did ya get your gear legs from? > > John F. Esch > Salem, OR > "Needing time, $, and more time" > > Dean Collette wrote: > > > > Netters, > > > > Big day for me - My project grew legs, all three of them. > > > > My lips are still numb from making noises . . . > > > > Pics at web site below ( Project Status / Gear Legs) > > > > Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin > > mailto:drdean@execpc.com > > Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfesch@home.com > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: drdean@execpc.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Troy's plane From: JEHayward@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 02:12:29 EDT X-Message-Number: 28 In a message dated 7/31/99 8:20:57 PM Mountain Daylight Time, langford@hiwaay.net writes: << With his horizontal stabilizer 4" longer (on each side) and his smaller elevator.......... >> Is his horizontal stab chord the same which is to say in making his elevator smaller, did he increase the chord of the stab to keep the same overall chord? Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: 178 Seconds To Live From: Michael Taglieri Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 02:18:52 -0400 X-Message-Number: 29 >>I've heard about this research, but that was with people who had no >>instrument training. The FAA has long required VFR pilots to learn >>enough to keep the plane straight and level, and to make a 180. If a >>certain celebrity pilot had made that 180, he'd probably still be alive >>today. >> >This scenario would also apply to a pilot who is not current in such >IFR flight. The person in question exercised poor judgement in taking >off in such conditions...then (if he had an autopilot), disengaging the >autopilot before he had clear reference to land/lights. > >A week ago I went with an instructor to refresh my ability to fly on >instruments alone and right the aircraft from non-level flight. > >My saving grace is I know I am not the best pilot around and I get >additional training as required or limit myself appropriately. Very true. If real instrument pilots have to keep practicing all the time, VFR pilots who got the bit of training the FAA requires to save your butt in an emergency should at least practice that occasionally. I don't see why you'd even need an instructor -- just someone in the right seat as a safety pilot while you're wearing the goggles. Mike Taglieri ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com