From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: November 22, 1999 Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 12:15 AM KR-net users group Digest for Monday, November 22, 1999. 1. Re: Rudder Cables 2. Re: Weight specifications 3. Rudder cable guides 4. Re: Static pressure - problem resolved... 5. Mooney tail; fillers 6. POST CURING - was SHOP HEAT (fwd) 7. Paint from PolyFiber 8. user name 9. Re: Rudder Cables 10. Re: Paint from PolyFiber 11. Re: Re: Paint from PolyFiber 12. Re: Re: Paint from PolyFiber 13. KR nose slams down 14. mistake in RR plans 15. Paint Website ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Rudder Cables From: "macwood" Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:37:37 -0000 X-Message-Number: 1 ----- Original Message ----- From: Allan Horne To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 5:03 AM Subject: [kr-net] Rudder Cables > Looking for good rudder cable guide's and support idea's. > Allan Horne > Calgary > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: macwood@tinyworld.co.uk > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Weight specifications From: Didactics1@aol.com Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 08:31:39 EST X-Message-Number: 2 See you got on-line OK with the KR-net. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Rudder cable guides From: "macwood" Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 13:37:59 -0000 X-Message-Number: 3 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF34EE.CAD23DA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here's what I used. From 1/4 inch Micarta (linen base), cut a piece = 35mm square. Cut a 5mm "L"shaped slot 6mm from one side, with a 25mm = upright and a 20mm horizontal. Drill two 2mm screw holes in the "land" = part of the square. Hook the guide over the cable, locating the cable in = the "toe" of the "L" and screw the guide to a convenient fuselage = upright so that the slot is covered by the upright ,preventing the cable = from coming out. I used 3 per side. QED! = I have a very = old Revmaster, N# A2132. As we in the UK are going totally lead free in = the new year, what do I need to do to enable me to use lead free fuel? = We are not allowed to use lead replacement additive fuel. = = Cheers Mac Wood. = =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF34EE.CAD23DA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Here's what I used. From 1/4 inch = Micarta=20 (linen base), cut a piece 35mm square. Cut a 5mm "L"shaped slot 6mm from = one=20 side, with a 25mm upright and a 20mm horizontal. Drill two 2mm screw = holes in=20 the "land" part of the square. Hook the guide over the cable, locating = the cable=20 in the "toe" of the "L" and screw the guide to a convenient fuselage = upright so=20 that the slot is covered by the upright ,preventing the cable from = coming out. I=20 used 3 per side.=20 QED! &nb= sp; &nbs= p; = ; = &= nbsp; &n= bsp; &nb= sp; =20 I have a very old Revmaster, N# A2132. As we in the = UK are=20 going totally lead free in the new year, what do I need to do to enable = me to=20 use lead free fuel? We are not allowed to use lead replacement additive = fuel.=20 = =20 = =20 = =20 = =20 = =20 Cheers Mac=20 Wood. = =20 = =20 = =20 =

------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF34EE.CAD23DA0-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Static pressure - problem resolved... From: marmet Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 09:04:18 -0500 X-Message-Number: 4 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_jB4o0fWD3aNOPTiDHVI3Ng) Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit To Larry. Can you explain exactly how your fence was made and also where you static port is located, this seems interesting cause I believe my airspeed is probably off quite a bit. J.C. KR2, C-GZFF Quebec Canada Capps Family wrote: > To All, > > After lunch, I installed a .032 fence about .10" aft of the static > ports. (I was going use fill for this purpose but didn't want to wait a > day for cure) Previously I have tried .25 and .062 fences but the error > was still there only in the negative column. Here are the results after > installing the .032 fence. > > Larry > > Larry A. Capps > Naperville, IL > capps@mediaone.net > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: marmet2@videotron.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com --Boundary_(ID_jB4o0fWD3aNOPTiDHVI3Ng) Content-type: text/x-vcard; name=marmet2.vcf; charset=us-ascii Content-description: Card for marmet Content-disposition: attachment; filename=marmet2.vcf Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit begin:vcard n:Marcoux;J. C. & Jocelyne x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:M & M adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:marmet2@videotron.ca fn:J.C. end:vcard --Boundary_(ID_jB4o0fWD3aNOPTiDHVI3Ng)-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Mooney tail; fillers From: "Oscar Zuniga" Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 06:25:14 PST X-Message-Number: 5 Howdy again, Thanksgiving turkeys- A while back there was a thread about making the KR tailfeathers look like a Mooney. I don't know what for, but if you want to know kinda what it looks like, go to http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/KRooney.html for one artist's rendition. Also, FWIW- I uploaded my proposed color scheme for the M-19 "KR Construction Trainer" I'm building; it's a little ways down on my homepage at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/index.html and honest, I didn't copy Mike's scheme- I had sketches for a couple of years. I'm learning a lot about what works and what doesn't work for fillers. Not to diss on SuperFil because I'm using it and it's great, but the cheapskate in me just had to try some "Home Depot" type stuff. For the record, forget about the latex-based Dow foam-in-a-can "crack filler". Yes, it's minimal expanding and easy to wash up, but it also takes forever to cure (like, a week or more!), is too delicate to sand, doesn't stick to anything, and IMHO is OK as a crack filler in your house only! The Red Devil lightweight spackling is extremely lightweight, hardens nicely, sands nicely, but I don't yet know how well fiberglass and resin will bond with it. It seems to stick to stuff OK, but nowhere near as good as SuperFil. And don't get yourselves in a snit here- I'm not using these products anywhere that it matters on the airplane. So, for my money, still the winner and champion in all categories...SuperFil! ---------- "Where are we going? And what's with this handbasket?"- George Carlin ---------- Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: POST CURING - was SHOP HEAT (fwd) From: Steven Eberhart Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 08:59:43 -0600 (CST) X-Message-Number: 6 This came across on the Cozy list. Thought some of you might be interrested/ Steve Eberhart mailto:newtech@newtech.com THE WING FLIES! - http://www.newtech.com/nlf for info on the new, flight tested, KRnet/UIUC airfoils. Good job KRnet, you can be proud of your contribution to Sport Aviation. Special thanks to Dr. Ashok Gopalarathnam and Dr. Michael Selig for some great Sport Aviation airfoils. One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author All information, in any of my aircraft related correspondence, is strictly food for thought requiring additional, qualified, engineering analysis. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 08:25:00 -0600 From: "Hunter, Gary GA SCC" To: 'Canard Aviators' , 'Cozy Mailing List' Subject: COZY: RE: [c-a] POST CURING - was SHOP HEAT Patrick wrote: .......one of my relatives, who operates an auto body repair shop, just installed a state of the art, > temperature controlled spray booth.... > ....The booth is computer controlled and can be programed to do about any thing. I think it is capable of 150 f degrees. > I could use it for two days (on a weekend). There might be other builders > out there who have access to similar facilties, but haven't thought about > using them for post cure..... > > My question to you is should I use this facility to post cure, and if so > how do I do it ? > > Patrick, YES !!! You are very fortunate to have such a nice paint booth to your avail. I have always advocated this type facility for post curing. Here are my suggestions on post curing. If possible - post cure after micro-filling and sanding, but before painting. I have seen many older composite airplanes, develop surface imperfections and fabric weave "print-thru" due to filler shrinkage from baking in the sun over the years. If you post cure the micro-fill too, the majority of the filler will have been pre-shrunk. Before, painting you can "re-work" the surfaces - thus reducing or even eliminating filler shrinkage related surface irregularities that can occur later on. You can be as far along as the high build surfacer/primer stage if you like. But be prepared to rework any areas that exhibit post cure shrinkage. There is no need to completely assemble the airplane - the wings can stand alone. Position the main wings leading edge down with support under the winglet so the main wing chord is perpendicular to - but off the floor. A wing cradle comes in real handy for this. Position the canard leaded edge down too. The fuselage should have the canopy and cowlings securely in place. Do not preheat the oven. Raise the temperature gradually to 140-150F over a period of 3-4 hours. The more gradual - the better. Once the oven is up to temperature, allow it stay there for at least 6 hours and up to 12 hours. This allows time for everything to become completely heat soaked. The cool down cycle should be very gradual over a period of 4-8 hours in the oven. Do not shock cool by pulling it out of the oven into a cold wintery day. The airplane temperature should be within 20F of the ambient temperature before removing from the oven. The whole process takes about a day. Place everything in the oven one morning - start the sequence - remove the next morning. Gary Hunter ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Paint from PolyFiber From: Mike Mims Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 08:07:08 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 7 Has anyone actually used the Flight Gloss water based paint from PolyFiber? If so what were the results and did you spray it over SmoothPrime? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: user name From: "Christopher Stewart" <23cs@msn.com> Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:15:16 X-Message-Number: 8 can whoever is inb charge of my user name please change it to cstewart@kvinet.com it was 23cs@msn.com Thank you Christopher Stewart ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Rudder Cables From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 18:33:32 -0500 X-Message-Number: 9 Al, I used nylon tubing along the sides between the forward and rear spars and made fair leads out of a solid block of nylon that resembled small pillow blocks in appearance. These were attached to a vertical member prior to the cables transitioning through the skin of the aircraft. Hope this helps. Kenny On Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:37:37 -0000 "macwood" writes: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Allan Horne > To: KR-net users group > Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 5:03 AM > Subject: [kr-net] Rudder Cables > > > > Looking for good rudder cable guide's and support idea's. > > Allan Horne > > Calgary > > > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: macwood@tinyworld.co.uk > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: klw1953@juno.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Paint from PolyFiber From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:05:12 -0500 X-Message-Number: 10 Mike, I've just about completed the smooth prime process, but according to the brochure I got from John Goldenbaum this water based paint stuff is quite a process, think I'll stick to shooting two coats of enamel and be done with it. Kenny. On Mon, 22 Nov 1999 08:07:08 -0800 (PST) Mike Mims writes: > Has anyone actually used the Flight Gloss water based > paint from PolyFiber? If so what were the results and > did you spray it over SmoothPrime? > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: klw1953@juno.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Re: Paint from PolyFiber From: DThomas773@aol.com Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:50:24 EST X-Message-Number: 11 A friend of mine bought a gallon to try on his Pulsar and had terrible time. He could not get it to flow out and and it looked like the wosrt orange peel you ever saw. He was using an inexpensive HVLP gun. He sanded it all off, found a friend and proffesional a/c painter and they tried again with a Crouix HVLP. Same results. Fortunately they just did the cowl so they got it all off and went to different material. D Thomas ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Re: Paint from PolyFiber From: Mike Mims Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:10:18 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 12 Yes from the info I have from PolyFiber they recommend that you use a regular spray gun. As a matter of fact they say NOT to use a HVLP unit. As far as that goes I havent seen a paint job yet that was done using a HVLP gun that looked good regardless of paint type. Could be the users? --- DThomas773@aol.com wrote: > A friend of mine bought a gallon to try on his > Pulsar and had terrible time. He was using an inexpensive HVLP gun. > Crouix HVLP. Same results. Fortunately they just > did the cowl so they got > it all off and went to different material. > > D Thomas > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR nose slams down From: "Robert Smith" Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 20:21:07 -0500 X-Message-Number: 13 I friend who flies a KR2 with trigear couldn't seem to hold the nose up after touchdown. It seemed to always slam down. So he made two adapters to move the main gear forward a bit. This seemed to help the slam-down problem but introduced a new problem: now, while sitting on the ramp, when two people got in it the plane would tip back on its tail if they weren't careful and keep their weight forward. Did he do the right thing by moving the gear forward? Is there a better solution to the problem? Bob Smith working on my vertical stab/rudder mailto:rsmith5@nycap.rr.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: mistake in RR plans From: "Robert Smith" Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 20:30:40 -0500 X-Message-Number: 14 I know its hard to believe :>) but I've found an error in the RR KR2S plans. Drawing B (full scale) clearly gives a vstab section F rib section to be 9.5 inches long but drawing A shows it to be 8.8 inches (using the 1/4 scale). I believe that the 8.8 dimension is correct. I checked it by putting my spars in place and measuring the needed distance. (Sorry if this has already been pointed out by others). Bob Smith mailto:rsmith5@nycap.rr.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Paint Website From: Mike Mims Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 22:54:03 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 15 My friend Brad painted his Dragonfly with paint from Sherwin Williams and it looks great. Just thought I would post the URL: http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/vrhome/vr_topcoat2/vr_topcoat2.html __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com