From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: November 23, 1999 Date: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 12:20 AM KR-net users group Digest for Tuesday, November 23, 1999. 1. Re: kr-net digest: November 22, 1999 2. Re: KR nose slams down 3. MAZDA 4. Re: Paint Website 5. RE: Mooney Tail 6. Paint Questions (fwd) 7. Re: MAZDA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr-net digest: November 22, 1999 From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:31:55 EST X-Message-Number: 1 In a message dated 11/23/99 3:15:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, kr-net@telelists.com writes: << The Red Devil lightweight spackling is extremely lightweight, hardens nicely, sands nicely, but I don't yet know how well fiberglass and resin will bond with it. >> I did a lay-up using this stuff and about a year later, peeled the glass off of the foam to see what kind of bonding I got. The stuff came off like peanut butter......in chunks. IMHO, stay away from using it. It will delaminate. As big a supporter of Poly Fiber as I am, I haven't seen/or tried his paint system. Anyone who has, and followed his directions, let us know. I can't believe it would not be up to standards, knowing what he does about surface applications. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR nose slams down From: Willard561@aol.com Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:13:59 EST X-Message-Number: 2 Bob: I believe the nose slamming down is a sign of what we allready know, that the KR-2 needs a larger horizontal stabilizor(sp) & elevator. With the adapters on the gear, it is to far forwards. Bill Higdon Willard561@aol.com ps pusher a/c like the mini imp have the same problem due to a lack of prop blast over the tail surfaces. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: MAZDA From: "Capps Family" Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:06:50 -0600 X-Message-Number: 3 To All, >many people who are partners in a airplane will >sell their planes either before or after a major overhaul because of the >cost). Did that with a Cherokee 160. > Safety note: When you install a auto engine get the best information on >how to do it and always take advantage of those who have gone before you. >This will save you tons of time and effort unless you are just up for a >challenge. Research as much as possible before you do anything, patience >will reveal problems for you before they happen. I've been researching the Mazda rotary 13B for some time now. Last week a presentation was given by Tracy Cook who now has 900+ hours on his RV4 installation. The rotary seems like a very good bet in terms of reliability - very few moving parts good power to weight and virtually no mechanical failure that will "stop your prop". [as compared with hundreds of critical parts in a reciprocal engine]. Tracy showed an engine which had been "blown up" by a drag racer.... who then drove home 300 miles before removing it from the car. Carburetion and mixture issues are "solved" by an available electronic fuel injection (EFI) system designed for the 13B in aircraft use. Intake porting is very simple (now Tracy has researched it and published a how-to book). Gear PSRU like the one running in Tracy's aircraft is available. Remaining issues are water & oil cooling and exhaust heat. Tracy has these solved in his RV4. I believe others (George Graham) have dealt successfully with these issues in pushers. As far as I can tell there are less than 100 flying Mazda's and maybe another 200 under construction. There's even a Cozy IV firewall with a Mazda mounted & running. Seems to me that the "main issue" with the Mazda, and any other non standard engine installation, is the potential for power loss due to failure in the peripherals - alternator, oil, water, fuel, ignition, drive reduction systems. These have to be done with very high quality parts (A/C fittings etc.) and redundancy where possible. Typical costs for a zero time 13B installation are, Engine & peripherals - $2500. PSRU - $1900, EFI - $800. In the region of $6k total. You could add a BRS parachute recovery system and still come in WELL under a Lycoming initial installation. When it comes to maintenance costs you're WAY ahead - a complete replacement zero time engine will cost you $2000 or less. Food for thought??? Comments??? Blue Skies; Larry Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL capps@mediaone.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Paint Website From: cartera Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:09:59 -0700 X-Message-Number: 4 Mike Mims wrote: > > My friend Brad painted his Dragonfly with paint from > Sherwin Williams and it looks great. Just thought I > would post the URL: > > http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/vrhome/vr_topcoat2/vr_topcoat2.html > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: cartera@cuug.ab.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com Hi Painters and Mike, He had that one right, that is the only way to go on composites with Acrylics, at least one tries to maintain as close as you can to one system. His aircraft will last in this pristine condition for a long time. One does not need to go to these high cost Imaron? or any other high cost aircraft paints because the weight is about the same or very close. Lacquer is one to stay away from because it gets very brittle and will crack and ages more quickly then Acrylics and of course staying away from anything that is water based. This type of paint is not for aircraft use, if you don't believe me, put it on and let me know how it's standing up in two or three years. There it is fellows from and ol' fart who has been through it all! Happy Flying!!!!!!!1 -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: Mooney Tail From: "Ryan Winslow" Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 8:36:51 X-Message-Number: 5 Keep in mind that the Mooney's tail was designed so that the hinge line would be at a perfect angle to get the plane out of a spin, as well as for improved response at lower speeds. In the drawing, the hinge line is straight up, which really wouldn't do anything benificial, just as you stated, but having a forward swept rudder hinge line could help quite a bit. Ryan ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Paint Questions (fwd) From: Steven Eberhart Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:07:18 -0600 (CST) X-Message-Number: 6 FYI - this was on the Lancair list this morning Steve Eberhart mailto:newtech@newtech.com THE WING FLIES! - http://www.newtech.com/nlf for info on the new, flight tested, KRnet/UIUC airfoils. Good job KRnet, you can be proud of your contribution to Sport Aviation. Special thanks to Dr. Ashok Gopalarathnam and Dr. Michael Selig for some great Sport Aviation airfoils. One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author All information, in any of my aircraft related correspondence, is strictly food for thought requiring additional, qualified, engineering analysis. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 18:39:21 +1030 From: Chris Moore To: "Lancair List (E-mail)" Subject: Paint Questions <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> We have a little experience with Poly-fiber water borne paint. Just completed painting the underside of our 0-200 (Yes very early kit fitted with original 0-200 engine). Decided to use their paint as the undercoats etc went on with a roller and there are no toxic fumes. After attending a workshop we reckoned that we could handle the job and get a good finish. Our plane is located inside our electronics assembly factory and we needed to keep the fumes and over-spray to a minimum. Basically after a little getting used to the undercoats we found they are excellent for filling pinholes and very small marks- use micro for larger blemishes. The coats are easy to put on section at a time using a fine cell paint roller. The whole process is more time consuming then solvent based systems that dry more rapidly. Need overnight in general between undercoats and UV shield coats as well as the top coats. So all in all there are about 12 or more coats including the top coat which is sprayed on. We found the application and sanding easy and straight forward to achieve the required finish (sometimes we did an extra undercoat over slightly rougher areas) before applying the top coat. Undercoat rubbing is done with 200 and 300 grit paper. The water borne top coat we sprayed with a standard suction type spray gun, no thinning just added the measured amount of cross-linker. There was very little over-spray. We were quite surprised at how well the white colour (which is really off-white) covered even though we did have a few very small areas of the grey silver shield still exposed. Finish of the top coat off the gun is smooth but not shiny. Actual spraying takes a little getting used to but the instructions are good and if you start on the rudder or similar it leads into the bigger areas without making too many droodles (paint runs). We waited about one month, while we were doing other things, before giving a final rub with 1500 grit and 2500 grit and then buffing. The final finish is quite hard and shiny like glass. We are very pleased with the end result. I hope this helps with your decision Dan and I also wonder what others experience has been. The big plus is you can do it yourself without shifting the plane and any small part you forget can be done latter with no drama (its amazing how many small parts there are). As I said earlier we have completely finished painting the bottom before were turned the plane over thus obviating the need to paint from underneath or turn the machine over. Hoping to finish in the next six months after 4 long years. Chris Moore >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: MAZDA From: Michael Taglieri Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 02:01:21 -0500 X-Message-Number: 7 >I've been researching the Mazda rotary 13B for some time now. Last week a >presentation was given by Tracy Cook who now has 900+ hours on his RV4 >installation. The rotary seems like a very good bet in terms of >reliability - very few moving parts good power to weight and virtually no >mechanical failure that will "stop your prop".... I remember these same articles, but the Mazda rotary seemed like a great deal more horsepower and weight than a conventionally built KR could use. People who are scaling the KR design up to the size of RV's, etc., might find this engine very tasty. Mike Taglieri ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com