From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: December 06, 1999 Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:17 AM KR-net users group Digest for Monday, December 06, 1999. 1. Re: Speaking of nuts! 2. Re: Plexiglas Questions 3. RE: Vacuum-Less Bag (VLB) Technique 4. Re: HP - Speed 5. Re: Plexiglas Questions 6. Re: Cockpit Floor ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Speaking of nuts! From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 07:23:37 -0600 X-Message-Number: 1 Mike is correct. AN bolts DO vary slightly in length. My usual MOA is to stick a much longer than needed bolt through the hole and mark the grip length (the thickness of everything being bolted together - don't include washers) with an ultra fine marker - such as the "Sharpie" brand. Then with your bolt gauge as a guide (Wicks has a nice cheap one) go to your bolts and find one with a grip length of exactly the same thickness or the next AN size longer. Then adjust the approximately "3 threads showing" from the nut with washers. I make sure I have plenty of regular and thin washers on hand. Calculating the bolts from your plans is probably a good starter idea, but you no doubt will need different sizes than shown in plans, especially if your building an airplane with wood components. Ed Janssen -----Original Message----- From: Mike Mims To: KR-net users group Date: Sunday, December 05, 1999 11:44 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Speaking of nuts! >apecorar@steelcase.com wrote: >> >> >> P.S. - Once again, if I made a miscalculation somewhere, please let us >> know! ;-) > > >Your calcs look fine but I hate to be the one to tell you this, they >were a waste of time! You will, just like everyone before you end up >ordering 3 times as many bolts as you need. Some slightly larger some >slightly shorter. I cant tell you how many times I did the same calcs >and still ended up make two more trips to AS&S to get the bolts that fit >just right. > >-- >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >Micheal Mims >Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( >http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ >mirror @ >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >http://members.home.com/mikemims/ >Aliso Viejo CA >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: ejanssen@chipsnet.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Plexiglas Questions From: "Jim Sellars" Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 11:28:43 -0400 X-Message-Number: 2 Tim : Is that an error when you said you will have two useable bubbles, = or was that because you had to do it a couple of times to get what you wante= d? Otherwise it sounds exacly what my fellow did to build me mine. Jim -----Original Message----- From: Timothy Bellville To: KR-net users group Date: December 4, 1999 10:31 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Plexiglas Questions When it came time to build the canopy for my Sonerai, I decided to try an= d blow my own. I did this by using a 2' x4' x5/8" piece of plywood as a bas= e with a hole dead center for an air fitting. Then I calculated the desired width of the bubble and added 4" ( to allow for expansion) then I found t= he desired length and times that by two. This gave me the approximate dementions of the bottom of the bubble . After cutting the elliptical sh= ape out another piece of plywood, I beveled the parameter to aid the "Lexan" past the form. I then placed a 1/8" piece of Lexan( with to protective covering removed)= , Between the base and form, and sandwich them together using drywall screw= s around the parameter threw pre-drilled holes. You may want to seal the Le= xan to the base with high temp silicone. I then placed the entire assembly in an industrial oven an heated for twe= nty min. at 350 degrees F. After removal I immediately applied 90 psi to the air fitting with the mo= ld upside down between two saw horses. It took two trys or reheating to get the lexan to expand to the desired size. When finished, If done right, you will have two useable bubbles for your canopy. Masonry drill bits work well for drilling Lexan, and I recommend a Dremal for cutting. Total cost : $50.00, (No bull) Tim -----Original Message----- From: apecorar@steelcase.com To: KR-net users group Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 1:42 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Plexiglas Questions >On 12/03/99, "Mike Mims " wrote: >> For those of you who don=92t want to heat up plexiglass >> the original KR2 canopy bubble makes great windows for >> gull wing canopies ... >> My windshield is flat wrap (cold) 1/8 inch plexi. My canopy is almost = a 100% >> replica of Troy Petteways so I am sure it will work >> just fine. > >Mike, > >I have 2 concerns about using 1/8" plexiglas on the windshield: > >1) How would a birdstrike affect a 1/8" vs a 1/4" windshield? I know 1/4= " >is heavier, but is the strength gain worth it? > >2) How much difference is there in noise reduction between using the 1/8= " >vs the 1/4"? > >If there is not that much difference between using 1/8" instead of 1/4", >then I have one less hassle to worry about! ;-) > >Thanks, > >Albert >mailto:apecorar@steelcase.com > >P.S. - Thanks also to everyone who replied to me directly! :-) > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: tbellville@mindspring.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jsellars@mon.auracom.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: Vacuum-Less Bag (VLB) Technique From: "Eduardo Iglesias" Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 22:48:50 -0300 X-Message-Number: 3 Larry I come used two mylar tapes with very good results.Usually itīs possible to re use it two or three times and the termination of the excellent quality that your you have with the plastic (that plastic uses?) It is necessary to sand the places that will be bonded and then to pass it carefully MEK to the whole surface. At the beginning I used a waxed leaf of metal foil (wax is difficult to remove). If you want to leave a part of glass without epoxi to epoxi it later and you have put a masking tape, it is good to put it some wooden lists in both lateral with "C" clamps to avoid that the epoxi comes out for the sides. You can put on another in a tip, for where you begins the squeegee. I have weighed both terminations and I obtained 60/40 of epoxi/glass with the previous method and 40/60 with this last. In a few days Iīll send you some pictures of the EAA Argentina fly in, where I take a picture of biplane constructed with this technique for an Argentinean engineer. Very beautiful! Eduardo emiglesias@cpenet.com.ar ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: HP - Speed From: NFCKR3@aol.com Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 15:28:40 EST X-Message-Number: 4 I have followed with interest this subject and decided it was time for me to comment. My KR2 cruises at an honest 150 mph and 160 if I want to push it. I have an 1832 a side draft carburetor and a homemade exhaust system. My plane weighs in at 606 empty weight. I can pull 27 inches wide open on take off and 24 at cruise. I guess that I am getting around 60-65 hp. The secret to a fast KR is keep it light and slick. Skip Carden 250KB ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Plexiglas Questions From: "Timothy Bellville" Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 15:49:43 -0500 X-Message-Number: 5 -----Original Message----- From: Jim Sellars To: KR-net users group Date: Monday, December 06, 1999 10:28 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Plexiglas Questions No, That was correct. You need to extend the lenth of the mold to get the correct width at the rear of the canopy anyway so why not enough to make two? If done right you Will have two identical bubbels. ie. cut it in half. The origanal shape is eliptical you just duplicate the ends. I have done this procedure four times, trust me it works like a charm onc= e you get the hang of it. for the cost of one pice of lexan you get two canopys. And a reusable mol= d that was made for penneys. The hardesty part of this is finding a oven big enough to put the mold in. I sujest befriending a industrial mold maker. I would be hapy to go in to more detail for those interested. Tim Tim : Is that an error when you said you will have two useable bubbles, = or was that because you had to do it a couple of times to get what you wante= d? Otherwise it sounds exacly what my fellow did to build me mine. Jim -----Original Message----- From: Timothy Bellville To: KR-net users group Date: December 4, 1999 10:31 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Plexiglas Questions When it came time to build the canopy for my Sonerai, I decided to try an= d blow my own. I did this by using a 2' x4' x5/8" piece of plywood as a bas= e with a hole dead center for an air fitting. Then I calculated the desired width of the bubble and added 4" ( to allow for expansion) then I found t= he desired length and times that by two. This gave me the approximate dementions of the bottom of the bubble . After cutting the elliptical sh= ape out another piece of plywood, I beveled the parameter to aid the "Lexan" past the form. I then placed a 1/8" piece of Lexan( with to protective covering removed)= , Between the base and form, and sandwich them together using drywall screw= s around the parameter threw pre-drilled holes. You may want to seal the Le= xan to the base with high temp silicone. I then placed the entire assembly in an industrial oven an heated for twe= nty min. at 350 degrees F. After removal I immediately applied 90 psi to the air fitting with the mo= ld upside down between two saw horses. It took two trys or reheating to get the lexan to expand to the desired size. When finished, If done right, you will have two useable bubbles for your canopy. Masonry drill bits work well for drilling Lexan, and I recommend a Dremal for cutting. Total cost : $50.00, (No bull) Tim -----Original Message----- From: apecorar@steelcase.com To: KR-net users group Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 1:42 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Plexiglas Questions >On 12/03/99, "Mike Mims " wrote: >> For those of you who don=92t want to heat up plexiglass >> the original KR2 canopy bubble makes great windows for >> gull wing canopies ... >> My windshield is flat wrap (cold) 1/8 inch plexi. My canopy is almost = a 100% >> replica of Troy Petteways so I am sure it will work >> just fine. > >Mike, > >I have 2 concerns about using 1/8" plexiglas on the windshield: > >1) How would a birdstrike affect a 1/8" vs a 1/4" windshield? I know 1/4= " >is heavier, but is the strength gain worth it? > >2) How much difference is there in noise reduction between using the 1/8= " >vs the 1/4"? > >If there is not that much difference between using 1/8" instead of 1/4", >then I have one less hassle to worry about! ;-) > >Thanks, > >Albert >mailto:apecorar@steelcase.com > >P.S. - Thanks also to everyone who replied to me directly! :-) > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: tbellville@mindspring.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jsellars@mon.auracom.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: tbellville@mindspring.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cockpit Floor From: "Ken Jordan" Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 15:32:4 X-Message-Number: 6 Ross, Thanks for your input. I removed my retract stuff and did the job right! Managed to get the 3/32 plywood trimmed and glued just before I left for Thanksgiving. Stapled it in place then removed staples. Also got the 1/4" top ply cut and trimmed, but it turned too cold for my glue, so I need a couple more warm days. Next on the agenda is epoxy work in my heated back room. Must finish my elevator, make a rudder and an instrument panel. On warmer days I'll reinstall the retract stuff and run cables aft. Thanks to everyone that makes this BBS worthwhile. DON'T GIVE UP! Even if you DO live in NV! Ken Jordan --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com