From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: December 21, 1999 Date: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 12:17 AM KR-net users group Digest for Tuesday, December 21, 1999. 1. Re: flox replacement 2. Re: flox replacement 3. Re: how do you keep glass fibers straight? 4. Re: KR Crash. 5. Re: missing e-mail address 6. Re: Finish work 7. Re: Redwood 8. Re: Finish work 9. Re: Spruce treatment 10. Re: Spruce treatment-ENOUGH! 11. Re: Finish work 12. William Wynne 13. Re: Spruce treatment-ENOUGH! 14. project update 15. KR2 for sale 16. Spruce treatment 17. Re: Finish work 18. RE: William Wynne 19. Re: Finish work 20. Re: Finish work 21. un-Finish(d) work 22. William Wynne 23. Re: Finish work 24. Outdoor Storage 25. Re: Finish work 26. A51 Site 27. Shelter for the KR ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: flox replacement From: "Ronald R. Eason" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 07:17:52 -0600 X-Message-Number: 1 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF4B83.7EC80560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -----Original Message----- From: Robert Smith To: KR-net users group Date: Monday, December 20, 1999 7:34 PM Subject: [kr-net] flox replacement >I would like to replace flox with chopped up carbon fibers in some >instances. I found these available from one supplier but they are very >expensive. Anyone know of a cheap source? > >Bob Smith mailto:rsmith5@nycap.rr.com > > >>Try chopped fiberglass. Carbon fibers are hazardous, they are like needles and can not be seen with x-ray or any other imaging system. Once they become a splinter they must be extracted. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF4B83.7EC80560 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; name="Ronald R. Eason Sr..vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Ronald R. Eason Sr..vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Eason Sr.;Ronald;R. FN:Ronald R. Eason Sr. ORG:J.R.L. Engineering Consortium Ltd.;Engineering TITLE:C.E.O., President TEL;WORK;VOICE:816-468-4091 TEL;HOME;VOICE:816-468-4425 TEL;PAGER;VOICE:816-989-9692 TEL;WORK;FAX:816-468-5465 TEL;HOME;FAX:816-468-5465 ADR;WORK:;jrlkc@mindspring.com;7333 North = Brooklyn;Gladstone,;MO.;64118-2329;U.S.A. LABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:jrlkc@mindspring.com=3D0D=3D0A7333= North Brooklyn=3D0D=3D0AGladstone,, MO. 64118-232=3D 9=3D0D=3D0AU.S.A. ADR;HOME:;;7333 N. Brooklyn;Gladstone,;MO.;64118-2329;U.S.A. LABEL;HOME;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:7333 N. = Brooklyn=3D0D=3D0AGladstone,, MO. 64118-2329=3D0D=3D0AU.S.A. URL: URL:http://jrl-engineering.com EMAIL;INTERNET:ron@jrl-engineering.com EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:jrlkc@mindspring.com REV:19991221T131752Z END:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BF4B83.7EC80560-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: flox replacement From: Donald Reid Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:32:37 -0500 X-Message-Number: 2 Robert Smith wrote: > > I would like to replace flox with chopped up carbon fibers in some > instances. I found these available from one supplier but they are very > expensive. Anyone know of a cheap source? > I have made small quantities with an electric carving knife that my wife never liked to use in the kitchen. -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: how do you keep glass fibers straight? From: Donald Reid Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:36:43 -0500 X-Message-Number: 3 Robert Smith wrote: > > In constructing my horiz stab and elevator I found it very difficult to keep > the glass fiber grain straight. Try as hard as I may, it always had a bit of > the "S" shape. It was also very hard to keep the fibers at 90 deg to each > other. > > For wings, how much of this "S" distortion is acceptable? How many degrees > can the cloth fibers be off from 90 and still be acceptable? ( Note : I > realize that the glass grain has to be laid "on the bias") Small amounts of distortion will not matter. The angle is less significant than you might think. +/- 15 degrees from 90 will make almost difference. -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR Crash. From: XATim@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:16:46 EST X-Message-Number: 4 In a message dated 12/20/99 10:42:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, DClarke351@aol.com writes: << leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: missing e-mail address From: "Larry Helming" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:32:18 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 Steve, we just need to build this for you and fly it to a KR fly-in. What do you expect the air frame to cost (without engine and instruments)? Looks like I might get to fly to Robinson today!!!!!!!!!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: Steven Eberhart To: KR-net users group Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 10:27 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: missing e-mail address > On Mon, 20 Dec 1999, Capps Family wrote: > > So if I wanted to build the BX-2 (Cherry) all I would have to do is ; > > Spend (5X) times the cost of the KR plans, > > understand and speak German and > > convert meters to feet and > > be my own Builder support net-work? > Yup, you got it. Most everything you say is correct with one exception. > The plans cost is only $650 or $400 more than the KR-2S. Five times would > put the cost at $1,250. Where the 5 times comes in is there are well over > 5 times more engineering drawings included in the BX-2 documentation. Or > the Douglass Fir for the Cherry is about 5 times cheaper than the Spruce > for a KR-2S. > > > Steve Eberhart ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: Chris Gardiner Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:14:17 -0500 X-Message-Number: 6 JIm, I am also at this stage and I made a foam fillet to blend the stub wing into the fuselage. This fillet is covered with 1.5 oz cloth , as is all my fuselage sides. I believe that the mahongany ply sides will warp with moisture if you don't seal them properly against the elements . My plane will be tied down outside , probably on grass. Just my ideas... Regards Chris Gardiner C-GKRZ 60% approx. James Gogniat wrote: > > I have my airplane upside down at this time > doing the finish work in preperation for primer > and paint. I have a question for anybody that has > done the finish work on the bottom of their airplane. > What did you do at the point on the bottom of the > wing where the fuselage and wing meet? I see no > reason to put a foam and glass fillet here if a > nice bead of dry micro would stay in this area > without flexing so much that it would fall out. > I am open for your suggestions! Thanks.....Jim > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: clgard@netcom.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Redwood From: "Cleo Greenhaw" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:32:23 -0600 X-Message-Number: 7 Redwood splinters easy!! Cleo,,, EX- Boat Builder ---- Original Message ----- From: Capps Family To: KR-net users group Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 11:32 PM Subject: [kr-net] Spruce treatment > Guys, > > Reduce your epoxy with denatured alcohol, COAT ALL WOOD. Or one of the best > anti root products you could put on wood is pure anti-freeze. Just > remember, anti-freeze will kill your pets and other wild life if they > consume it. I would also recommend not treating areas your body parts could > come in contact with. > > Larry > > Larry A. Capps > Naperville, IL > capps@mediaone.net > > > -----Original Message----- > Subject: [kr-net] Re: Spruce treatment > > I've wondered about using redwood instead of spruce for areas more likely > to accumulate water, such as the rear of the fuselage. About the same > weight as spruce and much more resistant to decay. > > Mike Taglieri > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: cleo@fullnet.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: Greg S Martin Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 07:46:06 -0800 X-Message-Number: 8 On Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:14:17 -0500 Chris Gardiner writes: > JIm, I am also at this stage and I made a foam fillet to blend the > stub > wing into the fuselage. This fillet is covered with 1.5 oz cloth , > as is > all my fuselage sides. > > I believe that the mahongany ply sides will warp with moisture if > you > don't seal them properly against the elements . My plane will be > tied > down outside , probably on grass. > > Just my ideas... > > Regards > > Chris Gardiner > C-GKRZ 60% approx. > James Gogniat wrote: Chris I don't think that leaving out in the weather is a real good idea. Cover all the plane with something. Even if it's a tent. I've owned two Bellanca's and I never left them out side. I had seen one in Soviet Monica and was told it had been left out for about two years and was it ever in trouble. Happy building and/or flying. Greg Martin, idrawtobuild@juno.com 1783 Glenwood Court Bakersfield, California 93306 work 661-861-0570, fax 861-0517 home 661-872-8781, fax 871-1822 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Spruce treatment From: Ray Wallace Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:48:10 -0600 X-Message-Number: 9 Would the new non toxic antifreeze work? Sierra? (I think) Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: Capps Family To: KR-net users group Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 11:32 PM Subject: [kr-net] Spruce treatment > Guys, > > Reduce your epoxy with denatured alcohol, COAT ALL WOOD. Or one of the best > anti root products you could put on wood is pure anti-freeze. Just > remember, anti-freeze will kill your pets and other wild life if they > consume it. I would also recommend not treating areas your body parts could > come in contact with. > > Larry > > Larry A. Capps > Naperville, IL > capps@mediaone.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Spruce treatment-ENOUGH! From: Horn2004@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:15:17 EST X-Message-Number: 10 In a message dated 12/21/99 10:50:13 AM, rwallace@intellisys.net writes: <> As Mike Mimms said earlier ... why would you want to do this? Before you go soaking your wood in all sorts of chemical treatments, you should probably spend several years conducting extensive testing with the chemical engineers at the epoxy manufacturer. I've never heard of a KR airframe failing due to extensive dry rot of any sort. If you seal your wood properly with either varnish or epoxy, soaking your wood in vats of God-knows-what is ridiculous! If you are that uncomfortable with wood, I would strongly recommend that you switch to either a metal airplane or a composite airplane. This whole discussion, I'm afraid, is rather misleading to any newbies who may be considering building a KR. Steve Horn horn2004@aol.com Dallas, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: Marty Hammersmith Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:43:35 -0500 X-Message-Number: 11 Oh Chris! Find some way to get the plane inside. It simply isn't gonna survive being outside. As small as a KR is, it should easy fit in a traditional size T-hanger underneath a Cessna or similar. I hate to see you spend years building your plane only to watch it deteriorate almost visibly in months. Chris Gardiner wrote: > > JIm, I am also at this stage and I made a foam fillet to blend the stub > wing into the fuselage. This fillet is covered with 1.5 oz cloth , as is > all my fuselage sides. > > I believe that the mahongany ply sides will warp with moisture if you > don't seal them properly against the elements . My plane will be tied > down outside , probably on grass. > > Just my ideas... > > Regards > > Chris Gardiner > C-GKRZ 60% approx. > James Gogniat wrote: > > > > I have my airplane upside down at this time > > doing the finish work in preperation for primer > > and paint. I have a question for anybody that has > > done the finish work on the bottom of their airplane. > > What did you do at the point on the bottom of the > > wing where the fuselage and wing meet? I see no > > reason to put a foam and glass fillet here if a > > nice bead of dry micro would stay in this area > > without flexing so much that it would fall out. > > I am open for your suggestions! Thanks.....Jim > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: clgard@netcom.ca > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: baleco@worldnet.att.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com -- Marty Hammersmith http://www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/hangar/1071 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: William Wynne From: "James Gogniat" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:44:22 X-Message-Number: 12 I have been having a problem getting a response from William about the 1998 update that he said he would be mailing us when it was complete. I have offered more money to get better pictures from William but I still have not seen nor heard from him. I have Manual#857, that came with a letter that said an "update will be sent to you automaticaly as soon as it's done". For those of you who have the manual, please read page 4."A FEW WORDS ABOUT THESE PLANS". I have tried to work with William but I am still in need of these pictures.I hope that we are not dealing with another Shirl Dickey of ERACER fame. Caviot emptor! Jim Gognij@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Spruce treatment-ENOUGH! From: Willard561@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:12:51 EST X-Message-Number: 13 I remember Bill DeFreeze's airplane developing a bad case of rot in the rear spar around the counter weight area. The recommendations in the past ( EAA wood manual was copper penta, see the wood manual for details Bill HIgdon. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: project update From: "Edwin Blocher" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 14:39:29 -0600 X-Message-Number: 14 Just finished pulling 378 (yes I counted them) staples. I will update my site after the holllidays. It has slowed down as I go along but I suspect that is normal. Seems like I spend as much time planning/thinking as I do working. Everyone have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a Happy Y2K. Love to you all and your families. Ed and Mary Blocher Ed Blocher Moody, AL mailto:ed_blocher@msn.com Check out all the latest on my home page. http://homepages.msn.com/Terminus/edsKR/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR2 for sale From: "Sam & Chris DeFilipps" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:09:31 -0800 X-Message-Number: 15 Hi everyone I have a KR-2 kit for sale. I acquired this airplane kit when a good friend of mine died. I know he had invested thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours in this airplane. I will do my best to tell you all I know about this airplane kit. I believe it was started in 1979. The fuselage is on retracts, the retracts have been modified from the plans this set has a positive locking pin for up and down settings. All of the wood has a protective coating it looks like epoxy. All of the controls are installed and working. The empennage is completed, ready for filling, primer, and painting. I have a fiberglass turtle back I think it came from RR. The firewall has a thin sheet of stainless steel on it. There is a motor mount with a four cylinder continental engine bolted on it. I know that it is not an 0-200 but I have not been able to find out what it is from the numbers on the engine plate. The engine has a prop hub but no mags and no plug wires, there is a carb and exhaust pipes. There are no engine log books. I have the fiberglass top that covers the fuel tank and the instrument panel. The fiberglass canopy Plexiglas canopy and the fiberglass wing tips. The wing spars are done and the mounting hardware is on them. There is no covering on the center section of the wings, the controls for the flaps are in and working. I believe the next step is to start on the wings. I don't have the wing skins sorry. The wing ribs have been cut out and I have all the foam to do the wings. I have the builders manual and a plan sheet for the fuselage along with most of the KR news letters. This airplane has always been in a hanger and has never gotten wet. I live in Friday Harbor Washington. about two hours north of Seattle and a two hour ferry boat ride out of Anacortes. My day time phone number is 360 378 3090 you can call me if you want I own my business and its OK to call. My email is samsrc@interisland.net I will sell all of this for $ 3,500.00 I know that this is less than 1/3 of what my friend had paid for all of this. Thanks Sam ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Spruce treatment From: "Capps Family" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 17:47:26 -0600 X-Message-Number: 16 There are two inexpensive materials that will kill rot in wood and preven= t its recurrence. First, there are borates (borax-boric acid mixtures) whi= ch have an established record in preventing rot in new wood and in killing r= ot organisms and wood-destroying insects in infested wood. Second, there is ethylene glycol, most readily available as auto antifreeze-coolant. Glyc= ol is toxic to the whole spectrum of organisms from staphylococcus bacteria = to mammals. There are two types of borate products commercially available for treatin= g wood-solid sodium octaborate for making solutions in water (Tim-Bor(r) an= d Ship-Bor(r)) and a 40% solution of sodium octaborate in ethylene glycol (Boracare(r)). Their equivalents and more concentrated solutions can be easily prepared from borax, boric acid, and antifreeze at much lower cost. Glycol by itself has one big advantage over solutions of borates in either water or glycol. Glycol penetrates rapidly through al= l paint, varnish, and oil finishes (except epoxy and polyurethane's) withou= t lifting or damaging those finishes in any way. The dyes in glycol antifreeze are so weak that they do not discolor even white woods. Once bare wood has been treated with glycol or the borate solutions and become dry to the touch it can be finished or glued. If a borate solution leave= s white residues on the surface, it will have to be washed off with water a= nd the surface allowed to dry. WOOD PRESERVATIVES Tim-Bor(r): Solid sodium octaborate; dissolves in water to make approx. a 10% solution containing 6.6% borate (B2O3) Bora-Care(r): 40% solution of sodium octaborate in ethylene glyc= ol; 27% borate content Home-Brew Water Solution of Borates: Based on U.S. Navy spec. of 60% borax-40% boric acid (this ratio gives the maximum solubility of bora= tes in water); 65% water, 20 %borax, 15% boric acid; 15.8% borates; borax cos= ts 54 cents/lb. (supermarket), boric acid costs about $4/lb. in drug stores (sometimes boric acid roach poison, 99% boric acid, is cheaper in discoun= t stores) Home-Brew Glycol Solution of Borates: This is equivalent to Bora-Care(r) diluted with an equal volume of glycol to make it fluid enou= gh to use handily; 50% glycol antifreeze, 28% borax, 22% boric acid. To mak= e a stable solution you mix the ingredients and heat till boiling gently. Bo= il off water until a candy thermometer shows 260=B0F. (This removes most of= the water of crystallization in the borax.) This solution is stable at 40=B0= F and has a borate content of 26%. With antifreeze at $6/gal. and borax and bo= ric acid prices as above, this is equivalent to Bora-Care(r) at about $15/gal. Larry Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL capps@mediaone.net -----Original Message----- Subject: [kr-net] Re: Spruce treatment Would the new non toxic antifreeze work? Sierra? (I think) Ray ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: Michael Taglieri Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 18:44:27 -0500 X-Message-Number: 17 If it is really true that a KR can't be stored outdoors under a tarp, I guess I'll have to forget about building one, because rent for a hanger in the New York City area would be more than some of you pay on your mortgages. Is it really true that a KR must be kept in a hangar? Has anybody tried keeping one outdoors in a four-season part of the country and what happened? Mike Taglieri >Oh Chris! Find some way to get the plane inside. It simply isn't gonna >survive being outside. As small as a KR is, it should easy fit in a >traditional size T-hanger underneath a Cessna or similar. I hate to see >you spend years building your plane only to watch it deteriorate almost >visibly in months. >> JIm, I am also at this stage and I made a foam fillet to blend the stub >> wing into the fuselage. This fillet is covered with 1.5 oz cloth , as is >> all my fuselage sides. >> >> I believe that the mahongany ply sides will warp with moisture if you >> don't seal them properly against the elements . My plane will be tied >> down outside , probably on grass. ___________________________________________________________________ Why pay more to get Web access? Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: William Wynne From: "garbez" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 18:10:33 -0600 X-Message-Number: 18 I don't know why you are having any trouble with William, he's building me a motor and every time I call him, he answers his phone, I even called him at midnight and he answered. and when I E-mail him he responds. If you E-mail him don't expect an answer until after 11:00 p.m. as he's working in his hanger until then and his computer is at home. Contact him at WilliamTCA@aol.com or 904-451-3676. Mike Garbez N998MG Griswold, IA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 19:10:06 -0800 X-Message-Number: 19 I think if one plans their finish accordingly and is carefull about properly dealing the woodwork, there shouldn't be a problem with a KR sitting outside any more than a fabric airplane sitting outside. You do want to seal things so rain doesn't get inside and install drains so if it does, it can drain out. A canopy cover also does wonders for keeping the interior temps down during the summer and the canopy clean. On Tue, 21 Dec 1999 18:44:27 -0500 Michael Taglieri writes: > If it is really true that a KR can't be stored outdoors under a tarp, > I guess I'll have to forget about building one, because rent for a > hanger in the New York City area would be more than some of you pay > on your mortgages. Is it really true that a KR must be kept in a > hangar? Has anybody tried keeping one outdoors in a four-season > part of the country and what happened? > > Mike Taglieri I think if one plans their finish accordingly and is carefull about properly sealing the woodwork, there shouldn't be a problem with a KR sitting outside any more than a fabric airplane sitting outside. You do want to seal things so rain doesn't get inside and install drains so if it does, it can drain out. A canopy cover also does wonders for keeping the interior temps down during the summer and dry when it rains. it also helps keep the canopy clean. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM mailto:jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213w construction and first flight at http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krjeff.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: "Cary Honeywell" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 21:48:14 -0500 X-Message-Number: 20 Experience here. My KR has spent most of its life outdoors in the Canadian 4 season climate. With a good white paint on it, you should be ok for a few years before you find the paint getting dull. The fibreglass, however, may not fare as well. UV radiation can soften what would normally be a fairly solid feeling fibreglass structure. Without a proper UV protective coating of some sort, your turtle deck and forward deck along with any other fibreglass part will develope what looks like a boil: a soft lump on the surface. Once that happens, you either excise the boil or poke a hole in the middle of it and flatten it out, afterwhich you inject some epoxy resin into the hole and hold it in place until it hardens. Another less pleasant possibility is that your junction of wood to fibreglass may weaken and separate. Another, which I found, is that if there is any way moisture can get to the internal wooden parts, especially the bold/screw holes into the elevators, the wood becomes sort of molten. Even sitka rots eventually. Others might disagree with my conclusions, but this has been my experience with the KR I acquired. Properly built, it should withstand any climate as well as any other aircraft of the same construction. Bottom line, however and in my own opinion, cover it with something. Anything but plastic though. - Cary -Cary Honeywell - Ottawa Ontario Canada caryh@home.com ve3ev@rac.ca Home page http://24.112.208.98/welcome.shtml KR2 area http://24.112.208.98/kr2.shtml -----Original Message----- From: Michael Taglieri To: KR-net users group Cc: kr-net@telelists.com Date: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 6:57 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Finish work >If it is really true that a KR can't be stored outdoors under a tarp, I >guess I'll have to forget about building one, because rent for a hanger --------------snip--------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: un-Finish(d) work From: "Cary Honeywell" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 21:59:46 -0500 X-Message-Number: 21 Opps. In case anyone was looking, I moved my KR site to a different directory. The html root was getting too full. I added words to the carb pages after someone asked for a discription of what I was doing. I anyone wants larger pictures, send me private email and I will look for them. Minor tweeks and tugs here and there, but much the same as before. I start adding links tomorrow, probably only for my own benefit though. - Cary - -Cary Honeywell - Ottawa Ontario Canada caryh@home.com ve3ev@rac.ca Home page http://24.112.208.98/welcome.shtml KR2 area http://24.112.208.98/kr2/kr2.shtml (note the change here. I tried it and it seems to work too. ) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: William Wynne From: "James Gogniat" Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 19:58:9 X-Message-Number: 22 I would like to let everbody know that William Wynne has emailed me two times today in response to my previous email regarding new pictures for my Corvair conversion manual. I am on vacation at this time, and have not spoken to him. But I did send him another email. It would seem to me that judging by his response time to my email, he realy does care to "have a strong kinship for anyone who wants to be an Experimental aviator". THANKS WILLIAM.........Jim Gogniat Thanks also to those KRnet users that emailed me personaly.....I have taken note of another phone number for William. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: Mike Mims Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 19:58:30 -0800 X-Message-Number: 23 I admit that I cringe at the thought of leaving my plane out in the elements but I see no reason why it wouldn't do as well as any other aircraft. All wood is sealed very well on all surfaces. The only thing I would do is have custom covers made for the entire airplane. A nice water proof cover for the canopy would be nice to keep water (rain, snow, etc.) from entering through that area. I your plane is waxed and covered it will last forever outside. Its just a matter of how well you take care of your equipment. Take a look at your car sitting outside right now. If its unwaxed and dirty chances are your plane will not do so well and you might want to find a hanger. On the other hand if your really anal about your car (see my web site "my other toy" and yes the engine is as clean if not cleaner than the outside) your plane will be fine outside! -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Outdoor Storage From: AviationMech@aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 00:54:47 EST X-Message-Number: 24 After 15 years(No permanent shelter for 12), KR-2 N110LR has weathered the seasons. But,not without much damage to the craft and frustration for me. Have you ever seen an aircraft in a winter storm with a cover that almost stayed on? By the time you dig out the drive and get to the airport, you'll wish you had tried harder to find shelter at any cost. During good winter days you may have a thaw, where any moisture will dance on your old wax, or try to find any tiny crack, and settle there for the night freeze. There are too many openings to seal all of them. Once the moisture gets in you have work to do. Think about the birds that nest, bugs that inject Mud. My $200 per month t hanger seems very reasonable compaired to the lost time and money reworking what was a perfect (beauty is in the eye.......) finish. Not to mention the loss of flying time. Everyone knows that once you start working on them, you just can't stop!! In the last two plus years, the dust that has fallen in by hanger has not caused any damage. Find shelter, if you plan to pamper your parishable 10 to 15k investment. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Finish work From: Greg S Martin Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 17:26:06 -0800 X-Message-Number: 25 On Tue, 21 Dec 1999 18:44:27 -0500 Michael Taglieri writes: > If it is really true that a KR can't be stored outdoors under a tarp, > I guess I'll have to forget about building one, because rent for a > hanger in the New York City area would be more than some of you pay > on your mortgages. Is it really true that a KR must be kept in a > hangar? Has anybody tried keeping one outdoors in a four-season > part of the country and what happened? > > Mike Taglieri > Mike You could build a trailer that would keep it out of the elements. David Moore has said that he has a design for folding the wings up. You might check with him. Because I think you could fold up the wings and stick in the trailer. It might be a little high but not to the point of making it unroadable. That would work for me if I were in your situation. I think David might even mail you direct as he is on the net too. Happy building and/or flying Greg Martin, idrawtobuild@juno.com 1783 Glenwood Court Bakersfield, California 93306 work 661-861-0570, fax 861-0517 home 661-872-8781, fax 871-1822 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: A51 Site From: Mike Mims Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:56:06 -0800 X-Message-Number: 26 A51 Site users, I was able to download the old A51 site and I uploaded (should be done by Wednesday morning) it to: http://www.geocities.com/kr2sflyer/ for now. I had to delete Mark Lougheeds stuff because it was so large. To bad because it was (still is) great stuff. If someone wants Marks web pages from the A51 site to upload to another site let me know and I will zip it up and send it off. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Shelter for the KR From: "Capps Family" Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 02:17:25 -0600 X-Message-Number: 27 The 30' Yurt Dome is made wholly of a white SolarDome covering, a super strong woven rip stop film . They also make the 30' out of our translucent Greenhouse covering. All fabrics have been treated with ultraviolet inhibitors which protect against sun exposure, are watertight, and will not rot or mildew. The frame is constructed of strong, long-lasting PVC tubing. Patented Grip Clips tm join the Yurt's cover to the frame. Grip Clips provide greater strength than sewn seams or any type of grommet, because they do not puncture the cover. Each panel of the dome is shingled over the next so that the dome breathes yet is completely waterproof! Shelter Systems 30' (9 m) 11' Tall Yurt Dome: $1800 Shipping $140 http://www.shelter-systems.com/large.html Blue Skies; Larry Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL capps@mediaone.net -----Original Message----- Subject: [kr-net] Re: Finish work Mike You could build a trailer that would keep it out of the elements. David Moore has said that he has a design for folding the wings up. You might check with him. Because I think you could fold up the wings and stick in the trailer. It might be a little high but not to the point of making it unroadable. That would work for me if I were in your situation. I think David might even mail you direct as he is on the net too. Happy building and/or flying --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com