From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: January 05, 2000 Date: Thursday, January 06, 2000 12:20 AM KR-net users group Digest for Wednesday, January 05, 2000. 1. Re: canopy latches 2. Re: Propellers 3. Re: Electric Heater 4. Re: Garage Heat 5. Re: Electric Heater 6. control stick 7. Re: Cockpit width 8. Re: Cockpit width 9. Re: epoxy and resin 10. Re: Warmth 11. Re: epoxy and resin ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: canopy latches From: "macwood" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 12:28:39 -0000 X-Message-Number: 1 Hi J, There's nothing wrong with the sling seat , but Bob Muse' idea (KR Newsletter Dec 1990) is a great improvement.Basiclly it's a foam base, 2"thick contoured to fit your derriere,with ply formers aand wrapped with BID.It is suspended between front and rear spars on blocks which are glued to the spar webs.Mine weighs 2lbs as to the sling seats-1lb, is warm ,comfortable and strong so you can jump on it when climbing in! If you're in Australia you could get in touch with the gent who flew out of Emerald WA, just south of Jandicott , who survined vertical decelaration which broke his main spar, thanks I think, to his foam seat base , about 4" thick . Cheers! Mac Woodnal Message ----- From: J. Miller To: KR-net users group Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 10:47 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: canopy latches > Hello Krnetter's, > It's nice to see that we're all still here and haven't fallen of the edge > of the world. A special "attaboy" to all those well blessed 'mates' down > under who had the chance to be in Sidney for NY's. A tremendous show... > Now re: a couple questions I've been chewing on for quite some time. I > have always felt the the "sling seat' could be GREATLY improved. There is a > reference to an article in one of the previous newsletters about seat > design. Does anyone have that information (or any other detailed relevant > info) which they can email to me or was I just not looking for it in the > wrong place on the KR-net? Also, I have decided to use a Prince P-Tip > composite prop and would like to find out more about them from fylers > currently using them or who have used them in the past. Pros and Cons are > encouraged. It's a big piece in the puzzle and I'd like that one to fit > correctly right from the start. > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: macwood@tinyworld.co.uk > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Propellers From: "The Stones" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 08:14:22 -0500 X-Message-Number: 2 -----Original Message----- From: Mike Mims snippage >There is a book out there that shows you >how to build props. Its actually a very simple process Those of you who think you may want to try building your own prop there is a good little booklet available from Eric Clutton. I think it's $10 for it and the info is more than worth it. Here is the address and number: Eric Clutton 913 Cedar Lane Tullahoma, TN 37388 931-455-2256 Tim S. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Electric Heater From: Horn2004@aol.com Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 10:54:23 EST X-Message-Number: 3 A number of folks have asked about the specifics of the heater which I use. FAHRENHEAT electric space heater 17,065 BTU 5,000 watt Marley Electric Heating in Bennettsville, SC BTW, it works for me. If you live in MN or TX, 30 degrees is 30 degrees. Epoxy requires certain temperatures to set-up properly, no matter where the !@#$%* you live. I used to live on the shore of Lake Superior, so I am familiar with the regional mentality up there where people believe 30 degrees is practically summer and southerners are woosies. While I continue to work on my KR, you can spend your winter by the fire continuing to criticize me for offering a solution. I'm not suggesting that this is the heat source for you. Just letting you know what I've found to work after 25 years of heating uninsulated shop space. Steve Horn horn2004@aol.com Dallas, TX Current temp. 32 degrees F ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Garage Heat From: "w.g. kirkland" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:52:12 -0500 X-Message-Number: 4 Ed Please go ahead ur method for finishing the fuselage. I think it's a good subject for the net. Otherwise address it to me personally. W.G. KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------- > From: Edwin Blocher > To: KR-net users group > Subject: [kr-net] Re: Garage Heat > Date: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 7:03 PM > > Tom, > 20 degrees is a lot colder in Alabama than it is in Minnesota. It is 43 here > now and so humid that it feels like it is really cold. I have a detached > garage that was not heated until I got ready to start building. Due to the > cost of electricity (from experience at an industrial plant) I had a 200 > gal. propane tank put behind the garage, rent on it is $45 a year and I > spend less than $200 a year for fuel. I put a 3 brick heater in the garage > and it will keep 45 degrees on one brick tonight when it gets into the 20s. > I also at the same time put gas logs in the woodburning fireplace insert > (Buck stove) so now I don't have to waste KR time on firewood. Then I hooked > it up to my gas grill and don't run the little tank empty in the middle of a > T-Bone. > If anyone is interested in a method for a really fine finish in the fuselage > plywood I'll be glad to go into it. It comes from my days of making gun > stocks and will make a slick finish. > That's enough for now, > Ed Blocher > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp > To: KR-net users group > Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 2:35 PM > Subject: [kr-net] Garage Heat > > > > Why the heck are guys in Alabama and Texas worrying about heating their > > garages? > > Tom (Minnesota) > > > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kr-n899eb@mindspring.com > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > > > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kirkland@vianet.on.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Electric Heater From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 13:10:08 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 -----Original Message----- From: Horn2004@aol.com [mailto:Horn2004@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 9:54 AM To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Re: Electric Heater A number of folks have asked about the specifics of the heater which I use. FAHRENHEAT electric space heater 17,065 BTU 5,000 watt Marley Electric Heating in Bennettsville, SC BTW, it works for me. If you live in MN or TX, 30 degrees is 30 degrees. Epoxy requires certain temperatures to set-up properly, no matter where the !@#$%* you live. I used to live on the shore of Lake Superior, so I am familiar with the regional mentality up there where people believe 30 degrees is practically summer and southerners are woosies. While I continue to work on my KR, you can spend your winter by the fire continuing to criticize me for offering a solution. I'm not suggesting that this is the heat source for you. Just letting you know what I've found to work after 25 years of heating uninsulated shop space. Steve Horn horn2004@aol.com Dallas, TX Current temp. 32 degrees F --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: traby@grenergy.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: control stick From: michael beck Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:27:36 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 6 --0-846930886-947100456=:1577 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I've started building my controls, and I like the design on Page 4 of the Feb 1983 newsletter. My question; is the 2 1/2 inches between the centerline of the stick and the spar adequate? Mike Beck Sedro Woolley, Wa --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. --0-846930886-947100456=:1577 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

I've started building my controls, and I like the design on Page 4 of the Feb 1983 newsletter. My question; is the 2 1/2 inches between the centerline of the stick and the spar adequate?

Mike Beck

Sedro Woolley, Wa


Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. --0-846930886-947100456=:1577-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cockpit width From: "Richard McCall" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 13:59:39 -0600 X-Message-Number: 7 Pierre, Here's some advice from one who is trying the same thing. I weigh 220 lb= s and my son weighs 240 lbs; both of us in a KR would bust it wide open. Weight Compensation: I used a double forward spare on mine. This theoretically allows me to double my gross weight, ie. (2 x 980) 1960 lbs.. The rear forward spar remains the same. Cabin: In expanding the cabin area from the plans length of 38" to 44", the forw= ard and rear spars have to be extended an equal distance to ensure that the w= ing lifting area remains the same. In my case, I am extending the tips of th= e wings and additional 6" (only because I didn't extend the spars before installation). Windshield: If you look at a plans built KR2S, the windshield is highly curved, causi= ng occupants considerable discomfort in having to lean in together to close = the cockpit area. Whereas, if you look at a Glassaire you find the sides of = the upper cockpit are more squared than rounded off. This provides much more comfort to occupants than the KR set up. I am fashioning my upper cockpit/windshield area after the Galssaire, with gullwing doors. Wt & Balance: I am using a Legacy 2.2 engine and will have to make a motor mount for it. In making the mount, I will adjust its length to ensure the CG is directl= y under the main spar after evrything is installed. The extra spar width a= dds some weight, but is offset by the larger engine Any use of this information or resulting modifications are done at your o= wn risk. Both the Glassaire and Lancair are derivatives of the KR series an= d were developed using modifications. Be safe and double check any mods yo= u make with an Engineer. Rich McCall Harker Hts, TX ----- Original Message ----- From: Pierre Van Biljon To: KR-net users group Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 11:31 PM Subject: [kr-net] Cockpit width > Greetings... > I'm a South African, living on the outskirts of Johannesburg (=B1 4000' ASL). > I'm also what some would call a large chap (weighing about 210 pounds). I > have been keen on getting my butt upstairs for some time now, and have > finally settled on the KR. I will be logging alot of hours in my bird, and > most of this will be with my wife sitting next to me. As a result, I n= eed > to increase the cockpit size on my KR-2S from the standard 38" to 48" > (that's 10"!) I also need to increase the instrument panel height to g= et > the tree stumps sticking out of the bottom of my body into the rudder > pedals. I realise that this is extreme, and I also know that it will h= ave > considerable ramifications on the rest of the airplane design. > My main concerns are: > Wing alterations to compensate for the increase in weight. At our > altitude, I don't want to go bounding down the airstrip and find out at the > end, doing 80mph that my wings are not generating enough lift. > The CG positioning, I don't want a tail heavy aircraft. > The power required to take off at this altitude: My initial powerpant = was > to be a turbo-charged VW type 4, machined to 2.40 litres as well as a f= ew > other tricks like a gas-flowed head, etceterra. > Does anyone have any constructive advice as to how I should go about th= is? > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: planecraft@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cockpit width From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 14:21:02 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 8 This isn't necessarily true. The little wing area you lose in widening the fuselage is more than made up for by the fuselage itself. The fuselage creates lift, if not by deflection alone then by the same principle as any other airfoil shaped object. If you widen your fuselage you should NOT lengthen your wings. This only puts more stress on the wing spar. In your case it sounds as if have a spar that’s more than large enough. If you wanted a spar that could handle the weight you mention adding a 1/2 inch to the top spar cap (from top to bottom) would have been more than enough. Oh well. --- Richard McCall wrote: > In expanding the cabin area from the plans length of > 38" to 44", the forward and rear spars have to be extended an equal distance to ensure that the wing > lifting area remains the same. >>>>> __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: epoxy and resin From: Chris Gardiner Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 16:49:25 -0500 X-Message-Number: 9 Vincent Stick with T-88 for the wood glue ( no pun intended) . It's the best stuff available in my opinion and has been used exclusively on my KR2S. I've tried others (FPL16A etc. ) but T88 wins it hands down. It's available in Canada from many sources , such as Fibreglass Factory Outlet in Mississauga ,Ontario 905 629 3178. For the glass work , try Aeropoxy ( my choice) or System Three available from CDN sources again , such as the one above or Leavens Aviation in Toronto ,Ontario . Regards Chris Gardiner C-GKRZ 60% Vincent Chrisovergis wrote: > > I'm a new builder getting involved with a kr2s. > I'm using T88 and wan't to get info on what resins to use other than > what rr. sells. being in canada I'm limited. West system is avaible. and > for the wood glue what else can be compensated for? > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: clgard@netcom.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Warmth From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 19:24:54 -0500 X-Message-Number: 10 Hi Joe, All I can tell you is it really helps to be creative in this area. I pretty much rely on a kerosun heater to get me through these cold times, When you start out you'll be working with T88 to glue your 5/8 members together, this stuff is great to work with in cooler climates like ours. But once you get to the lay-ups things need to be about 70 or you will wait till spring for things to cure. I'm building mine near Kutztown Pa. and after 5 yrs. I'll be flying this summer. Good luck, Kenny On Mon, 03 Jan 2000 19:40:06 -0800 Joseph Cygan writes: > Hello, > I just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Joe Cygan, and > I am new to the net. I have been reading the KR-net for a couple of > months now and I am impressed with the wealth of knowledge out > there. > > I have just moved to Pittsburgh,Pa. The Weather is cold and > I am wondering if anybody could suggest a way to warm my COLD > garrage, > so I can start glueing my KR-2S together? > > Joe > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: klw1953@juno.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: epoxy and resin From: "w.g. kirkland" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 21:20:18 -0500 X-Message-Number: 11 W.G. KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------- > From: Dave King > To: KR-net users group > Subject: [kr-net] Re: epoxy and resin > Date: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 6:08 PM > > At 12:18 PM 01/04/2000 -0400, you wrote: > >I'm a new builder getting involved with a kr2s. > >I'm using T88 and wan't to get info on what resins to use other than > >what rr. sells. being in canada I'm limited. West system is avaible. and > >for the wood glue what else can be compensated for? > > Hi > > Try G2 epoxy by Industrial formulators of Canada. It's specs are the same > as T-88 with some improvements in shear strength and peel. It's has excellant > penetration of hardwoods etc and is non sensitive 1-1 or 1-2 mix. It's also > approved by the MOT for wood and metal bonding. > > Dave > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kirkland@vianet.on.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com