From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: January 22, 2000 Date: Sunday, January 23, 2000 12:23 AM KR-NET Digest2 for Saturday, January 22, 2000. 1. Re: Polyurethane foam 2. Re: counterbalance elevator? 3. Re: Bingelis books 4. T88 Patch on alum tank 5. Re: Polyurethane foam 6. Re: wing attach fittings 7. Re: counterbalance elevator? 8. Re: Polyurethane foam 9. trailing edges 10. Decals are in 11. fuel tank repair 12. Re: Subaru motor 13. Re: T88 Patch on alum tank 14. Project update.. 15. Getting it painted. 16. Re: Subaru motor 17. cheap engine preheater 18. cabinet idea 19. Mark's Seat 20. Re: wing attach fittings 21. Re: Subaru motor 22. Re: Subaru motor 23. Re: Subaru motor 24. Re: T88 Patch on alum tank ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Polyurethane foam From: larry flesner Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:02:09 -0600 X-Message-Number: 1 At 02:11 PM 1/21/00 -0800, you wrote: >I started to sand down the foam on my elevator, and noticed towards the >rear of the control surface, that the foam is warping, and that it is >sanding good at the ends where i have my airfoil template, it just seems >that its not sanding that good in the middle, >Christopher Stewart \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ Chris, The problem is the foam flexing in the areas between the templates. It flexes down under the weight of the sanding board and sands at a slower rate. When you remove the sanding board you end up with a high spot in the middle. The cure is to support the back side of the foam with something while you are sanding to take the flex out of the foam. It's been several years since I did mine and I've forgotten now how I did it but you could probably hotglue a piece of 1 x 2 or something to it. I sanded one side and then glassed it before sanding the second side. When sanding the second side, I left the trail edge about 1/8 inch thick. After glassing the second side I had a nice straight edge about 1/8 inch thick with foam center. Remove the foam about 3/8 of an inch back into the control surface (a dremel with wire brush works great) and fill with flox. After curing, sand (trailedge)straight with the sanding board and round off with sand paper. This will give you some of the nicest trail edges you can imagine. They are straight and true and look factory made. (Sand the trailedge straight after each step, i.e. first side glassed, second side glassed, etc.) P.S. Yes it matters if it is warped on the first side. Once glassed, you won't get the warp back out. Keep it straight as you go. The secret to a good glass job is in the foam !!! Larry Flesner KR builder, Tripacer driver, skydiver hauler ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: counterbalance elevator? From: larry flesner Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:27:52 -0600 X-Message-Number: 2 At 04:40 PM 1/21/00 -0800, you wrote: >Thanks for the input! It looks like I probably don't need to add the >weight since I don't think I will be doing over 200mph. > >Steve ========================================================================= Steve, I'm sure the engineers on the net will correct me if I'm wrong but a control surface can flutter an ANY SPEED. I think it has mostly to do with the design of the control surface and the control system. I have never heard of a KR accident as a result of control surface flutter so the design must be pretty safe. This does not insure that some builder won't change something and create a problem. If you or any other builder on the net doesn't already have the Tony Bingalis books, I suggest you get them all. They are easily read and understood by a sixth grader and cover every part of an aircraft. There are many simple drawing, electrical circuits, instrument systems, etc. . As Ed McMann used to say, "everything you need to know is in these four little books !!" Then Johnny would say "wrong aileron breath, or something like that. ( Sorry for my feable attempt at humor.......) Larry Flesner KR builder, Tripacer driver, skydiver hauler ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Bingelis books From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:56:16 -0600 X-Message-Number: 3 Netters, Now's the time to get those Bingelis books if you don't already have them. EAA has all four books as a set at a special price this month for all EAA members. Price is a little higher for nonmembers, but well worth the extra money. I think most guys would agree - if you're building an airplane , you GOTTA have 'em!! Ed Janssen >any other builder on the net doesn't already have the Tony Bingalis >books, I suggest you get them all. They are easily read and understood >by a sixth grader and cover every part of an aircraft. There are many simple >drawing, electrical circuits, instrument systems, etc. . As >Ed McMann used to say, "everything you need to know is in these four >little books >Larry Flesner >KR builder, Tripacer driver, skydiver hauler ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: T88 Patch on alum tank From: RFG842@aol.com Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:00:39 EST X-Message-Number: 4 I'm no expert but I believe that the fibreglas patch with expand and contract at a different rate than the aluminum gas tank. Will probably hold for awhile but sooner or later, you will come back to the plane and find a puddle of gas somewhere. Long term solution is have it welded. Some other considerations is where the hole is and how large. A small hole on the top of the tank is less critical than a large hole on the side or bottom of the tank. Good Luck, Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Polyurethane foam From: WA7YXF@aol.com Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:07:41 EST X-Message-Number: 5 Christopher, Just sand down the top first. Glass layup around the leading edge past center a bit, your going to have a lap joint there. I like to mark it with masking tape and razor trim just before it hardens, then remove the tape.. Shape the bottom side to profile. Trim the trailing edge off straight and remove the foam totally from the last 3/4" and sand it a bit so you can bond the top and bottom skins together. Using 4 or 5 spots of bondo attach a straight board along the trailing edge to support it. Then shape and glass layup the bottom, glass to glass at the trailing edge and a nice lap joint at the leading edge.. Put some micro in the little dip at the trailing edge smoothing it off, razor trim... After cure dress up the leading edge, sand the trailing edge nice and straight, knock the board off with a hammer and sand the bondo smooth. Its real easy and it will turn out really nice. Have fun. Lynn Hyder WA7YXF N37LH Redmond, Oregon ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wing attach fittings From: Willard561@aol.com Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:10:19 EST X-Message-Number: 6 In a message dated 1/22/00 12:31:21 AM Mountain Standard Time, T152GMAN@AOL.COM writes: << Subj: [kr-net] wing attach fittings Date: 1/22/00 12:31:21 AM Mountain Standard Time From: T152GMAN@AOL.COM (TONY SOLDANO) Sender: bounce-kr-net-17490@telelists.com Reply-to: kr-net@telelists.com (KR-net users group) To: kr-net@telelists.com (KR-net users group) Has anybody used stainless steel for there wing fittings? >> The Late Molt Taylor brought up the problem of substituting Stainless for 4130 in one of his articles in Sport Aviaiation back in the 70's you have to look at All The characteristics of the alloy, as some have good tensile strength but really bad elongation properties. Bill Higdon Willard561@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: counterbalance elevator? From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:56:27 +0000 X-Message-Number: 7 The plans only specify balance for the ailerons. I think that counterbalancing all the surfaces may be a bit of overkill, as flutter is not a major problem with KR's as I know of. Of course if you are trying to make your KR into a >190mph airplane, you are beyond redline, and probably would want counterbalanced tail surfaces. -- Ross Richard McCall wrote: > Steve, > > All of your moving flight surfaces should be balanced, to prevent flutter > from happening. > > Rich McCall > Harker Hts, TX > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Steve Glover > To: KR-net users group > Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 6:57 PM > Subject: [kr-net] counterbalance elevator? > > > Hello Netters, > > > > I am trying to find out if the elevator on KR's should be counterbalanced. > > I am just assembling my elevator and want to make provisions for the > > counter weight if needed. My plane is a KR-1 specifically so I don't know > > if that makes any difference. > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17523X@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Polyurethane foam From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 11:02:23 +0000 X-Message-Number: 8 Chris, You need some support beneath the foam to keep it from bowing while you sand. This becomes trickier when you sand your wing foam. I used a flox technique to bring my trailing edges to a nice even edge. It is not knife edge, but a nice even contour. Basicly, after I had gassed my elevator, I had to cutpart of the end out and flox it then sand the flox to get the surface I wanted. -- Ross Christopher Stewart wrote: > I started to sand down the foam on my elevator, and noticed towards the > rear of the control surface, that the foam is warping, and that it is > sanding good at the ends where i have my airfoil template, it just seems > that its not sanding that good in the middle, i made a sanding board with a > straight peice of wood, with 36 grit paper on it, > and also does this matter if it is warping, should i just sand one side > down then glass it,then remove about an inch or so foam and use flox on the > end to give it a knife edge?, then sand the flox down , then glass the > other side? > > Christopher Stewart > Whitesville WV, > KR-1XL > N823CS(reserved) > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17523X@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: trailing edges From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 09:47:26 -0800 X-Message-Number: 9 > At 02:11 PM 1/21/00 -0800, you wrote: > >I started to sand down the foam on my elevator, and noticed towards the > >rear of the control surface, that the foam is warping, and that it is > >sanding good at the ends where i have my airfoil template, it just seems > >that its not sanding that good in the middle, > > >Christopher Stewart Chris, go to this site to see a pretty good idea for building trailing edges. This is how most of the other composite airplane plans instruct you to do it. This is one of those things that should have been included in a plans revision or something. http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/wing3.html If you don't like this method go see Mark Langford page he has a similar but different way to make straight trailing edges. Also you could use hot glue instead of bondo if you want. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Decals are in From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 11:20:07 +0000 X-Message-Number: 10 The first batch of decals are in! I am getting orginized in 2000, and will be mailing out decals to anyone who sends the $20 support for KR-net this year. If you are just interested in a decal, to cover the inital setup costs and mailing, I will sell them for $10.00. The next batch should be cheaper. The first batch was only 48 decals, we get a price break at 100, but based on contribution rates to KR-net, we didn't have the funds to place that order. They are about 5"x5" and are roughly the size of a cd-rom case. (slightly taller, and slightly narrower). I have a pretty large truck bumper, and it fit nicely there. You need to send your $10.00 or $20.00 to Ross Youngblood 411 N Kyrene rd Apt 153 Chandler, Az 85226 I have stamps.com and envelopes, and stickers, and will try to take at least 1 possibly two Saturdays a month to process this stuff on a regular basis, and recognize the folks that support KR-net! Thanks, it wouldn't work without all of you members out there! -- Regards Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: fuel tank repair From: Bryce Guenther Date: 22 Jan 00 11:06:01 PST X-Message-Number: 11 Expoxie patch or Epoxy patch fuel tank repair, tractor mechanic or A&P mechanic the best choice is aluminum weld patch and I can spell too! sign= ed A & P friend & KR builder ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webm= ail.netscape.com. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Subaru motor From: "Richard McCall" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 13:29:06 -0600 X-Message-Number: 12 Bill, Here is just a little advice. Check the model of the engine. If you are building a standard KR, you will want the EA81. If you are going to make the KR a little wider, then an EA82 will work. A lot depends on what you plan to do and how you plan to build your plane. Make sure you get the bell housing, pressure plate, starter, generator, and computer for the engine. you will need it all. I have an EA 82 (100 HP) and an EJ 22 (130-150 HP). Rich McCall Harker Hts, TX ----- Original Message ----- From: William Kane To: KR-net users group Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 3:49 PM Subject: [kr-net] Subaru motor > I have an opportunity to buy a Subaru motor next week and need a bit of > advice. > 1) the pros and cons of a Subaru in a KR > 2) is there anything specifically I shoud look for or at? > 3) any advice on price you can offer. > Thanks in advance for any information you are able to pass along. You may > see a second message similiar to this, I know I submited it, just don't > know where it went. Thank again, Bill Kane > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: planecraft@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-105534I@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: T88 Patch on alum tank From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 13:20:36 -0700 X-Message-Number: 13 On Sat, 22 Jan 2000 10:00:39 EST RFG842@aol.com writes: > I'm no expert but I believe that the fibreglas patch with expand and contract > at a different rate than the aluminum gas tank. Will probably hold for > awhile but sooner or later, you will come back to the plane and find a puddle > of gas somewhere. > > Long term solution is have it welded. Another solution is to solder a patch on with silver solder. Lead solder won't work. I believe you'll find that to be an appropriate repair. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM mailto:jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213w construction and first flight at http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krjeff.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Project update.. From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 14:56:49 -0600 X-Message-Number: 14 ...or "how I spent my Christmas vacation", building the mother of all composite seats. Any similarity to Don Reid's seat is pure coincidence, of course. I said something earlier about the sling seat maybe being safer in a flat spin sort of accident, but Dr. Dean pointed out that in the more typical variety where you're sliding down the runway on the fuselage belly (or thru the treetops), it's nice to have a little more between your butt and the asphalt than a piece of cloth and a tenth inch of plywood. Not that there's anything wrong with the sling seat, but I like mine better. It's at the usual place, http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kmarkl.html. The last picture shows what happens to the inside of your fuselage when you apply a couple of coats of polyurethane. Things get beautiful! I may have to leave it that way just to show it off. Now it's about time to start on that Corvair engine in earnest, since almost all of the parts are back from getting bored out for 94mm VW pistons and cylinders at Bob Sutcliffe's... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Getting it painted. From: DClarke351@aol.com Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 16:17:32 EST X-Message-Number: 15 Just thought I would let you all know I am still alive and kicking here in El Paso. I am in the process of painting my "2" and have the wings off for awhile. All I need to do now is is paint. The primer and the filling & sanding is done. (give or take a few spots) Oh yes I still have that Subaru engine for sale ($500.00 + cost of shipping) We could not figure how to send it to Brazil cost effectively. I am also forming the buck for my wing stub leading edge alu fuel tanks. Should be around 10 more gal. Don Clarke ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Subaru motor From: Lon V Boothby Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 13:24:44 -0800 X-Message-Number: 16 Is there a turbo suburu motor that produces 160 - 170 h.p.? And what kind of suburu would you find it in? Thanks for your info. Lon ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: cheap engine preheater From: larry flesner Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 15:55:18 -0600 X-Message-Number: 17 Fellow netters, There was some discussion on engine heaters lately but I was reluctent to through in my two cents worth without having some numbers. This morning I went to change oil in the Tripacer. It was 35 degrees in the hangar. In 55 minutes my cheap heater brought the entire engine compartment, the oil temp. (according to guage) , and six quarts of new oil up to 85 degrees. After changing oil and going to lunch, I returned and the oil temp. was 100 degrees. To build the heater I purchased a 1500 watt ceramic heater with dual heat controls and a fan control. I probably spent about $25 for the heater. I bought a piece of foam insulation board, about 1/2 inch or so, with foil on both sides. I cut out pieces to build a duct that is approx. 36 inches horizontal and 25 inches or so vertical. The inside diameter is made so the heater just slips right inside the duct. The vertical part sets right up into the cowl opening on the lower cowling. I got fancy and made a double 45 degree angle at the horizontal to vertical point to help the air make the corner better. Cut out all sides from flat stock and tape together with duct tape. It sets very stable on the floor and the heat soure is located well away from the engine area. Very little heat loss in the duct as it stays cool to the touch on the outside. With a seven day timer, your bird could be toasty warm and waiting for you at the airport on the weekends or whenever. The heater has a tip-over shutoff and the unit can be put into place or removed in about 10 seconds or less. I place two old blankets, folded double, over the top of the cowl to help hold in the heat. Build to fit aircraft/ cowl openings and height. Larry Flesner KR builder, Tripacer driver, skydiver hauler ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: cabinet idea From: "Gaylon Fuller" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 16:17:15 -0800 X-Message-Number: 18 I found a guy close by that is building an Avid, so I went to check it out today. He had one idea that I thought was so neat, I had to share it. He took two old refrigerators and gutted them out, then built shelves, put peg board on the insides and on the door and uses it for a tool cabinet. He sat them about 6' apart and built shelves inbetween. I thought "what a great idea for a epoxy/paint cabinet". The insulation is already there, and more than likley a light fixture as well. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Mark's Seat From: Ron Lee Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 17:42:52 -0700 X-Message-Number: 19 Darn fine job there Mark. I need to do something like that as well but have not figured out how to get the right curve so I don't create hot spots. Not having someone to take the initial conformance pic creates a slight problem. Ron Lee ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wing attach fittings From: "JEAN" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 20:11:58 -0600 X-Message-Number: 20 I made some for Mike Ladigo's turbine powered KR-1 out of Inconel 718 Jean N4DD Broken Arrow OK ----- Original Message ----- From: TONY SOLDANO To: KR-net users group Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 8:43 PM Subject: [kr-net] wing attach fittings > Has anybody used stainless steel for there wing fittings? > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: N4DD@prodigy.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-39510K@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Subaru motor From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 18:23:14 -0800 X-Message-Number: 21 Lon V Boothby wrote: > > Is there a turbo suburu motor that produces 160 - 170 h.p.? > And what kind of suburu would you find it in? > Thanks for your info. > Lon I think that engine came in a the SVX but it weighs almost 300 pounds so it might be a little heavy. Someone earlier mentioned a EA-82 that made a 100 hp, not sure if such an animal really exist unless it has a turbo too. It will be interesting to see how well my 125 hp lycoming performs against the 160 hp Subarus! :o) -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Subaru motor From: "Al Latham" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 21:24:42 -0600 X-Message-Number: 22 Subaru Guys, I'm not schooled in the Subaru but I do know there is a turbo charged 4 cylinder in the little two seat sports car. If anyone would like the rest of the story I could make a phone call and find out. I pulled the turbo off the car for a later project???. Also, why change the wing fitting material, have wings been falling off that we didn't know about? AL -----Original Message----- From: Mike Mims To: KR-net users group Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 8:27 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Subaru motor >Lon V Boothby wrote: >> >> Is there a turbo suburu motor that produces 160 - 170 h.p.? >> And what kind of suburu would you find it in? >> Thanks for your info. >> Lon > > >I think that engine came in a the SVX but it weighs almost 300 pounds so >it might be a little heavy. Someone earlier mentioned a EA-82 that made >a 100 hp, not sure if such an animal really exist unless it has a turbo >too. It will be interesting to see how well my 125 hp lycoming performs >against the 160 hp Subarus! :o) > >-- >zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz >Micheal Mims >Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( >http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ >mirror @ >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ >http://members.home.com/mikemims/ >Aliso Viejo CA >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: geebeed@netins.net >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-172526U@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Subaru motor From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 19:30:45 -0800 X-Message-Number: 23 Al Latham wrote: > > Subaru Guys, > I'm not schooled in the Subaru but I do know there is a turbo charged 4 > cylinder in the little two seat sports car. >>> The engine I am thinking of is the six cylinder model. There is also a 4 cylinder model that has a turbo but I am not sure it made that much power (160hp) but who knows? I think there are models of the SVX engine that made upwards of 250 hp. But like I said they are heavy. I think you will find that the only subaru engines you can be used in a KR will be the 81 and the 82, turbo or not. The larger subaru engines tend to get REAL heavy when you add the redrive, water, etc. Personally I found that the HP to Weight ratio on the naturally aspirated subarus to be a disappointment. I looked REAL HARD at Soobys before I decided that the O-200 (or airplane type) engine was a better choice for ME. That doesn't mean its not the engine for you or other builders it just wasn't a good choice for me. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: T88 Patch on alum tank From: "Joe Beyer" Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 20:52:03 -0800 X-Message-Number: 24 A fiberglass patch on an aluminum tank is downright dangerous. Take the tank out, clean it and have it welded. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 7:00 AM Subject: [kr-net] T88 Patch on alum tank > I'm no expert but I believe that the fibreglas patch with expand and contract > at a different rate than the aluminum gas tank. Will probably hold for > awhile but sooner or later, you will come back to the plane and find a puddle > of gas somewhere. > > Long term solution is have it welded. > > Some other considerations is where the hole is and how large. A small hole > on the top of the tank is less critical than a large hole on the side or > bottom of the tank. > > Good Luck, Bob > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: joejbeyer@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-173184A@telelists.com > --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com