From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: January 29, 2000 Date: Sunday, January 30, 2000 2:53 AM KR-NET Digest2 for Saturday, January 29, 2000. 1. Re: Tomahawk Spins 2. Re: Gascolator Cooling 3. Re: KR-2 0-200 prop 4. stainless steel/cadmium (or zinc) contact 5. Re: KR-2 0-200 prop 6. Re: Turbined KR 7. aft spar dihedral 8. fiberglass weight 9. kr-1 bluefoam(polystyrene) wing 10. Re: hanger 11. Re: Gascolator Cooling 12. Re: aft spar dihedral 13. Re: fiberglass weight 14. Re: fiberglass weight 15. Re: aft spar dihedral 16. Re: kr-1 bluefoam(polystyrene) wing 17. Re: aft spar dihedral 18. Re: fiberglass weight 19. Dragonfly Canopy details! 20. Re: aft spar dihedral 21. Re: fiberglass weight 22. Re: kr-1 bluefoam(polystyrene) wing 23. Re: Gascolator Cooling 24. cutting glass cloth 25. magnets/compasses 26. Re: Gascolator Cooling 27. Re: Cracked VW Case 28. Re: Sending sensors 29. Re: cutting glass cloth 30. Re: cutting glass cloth ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tomahawk Spins From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 20:28:57 -0700 X-Message-Number: 1 On Thu, 27 Jan 2000 23:16:12 -0500 Michael Taglieri writes: > > > In this case, according to the article in Aviation Safety, some Tomahawks > apparently have an elevator defect that can cause the elevator to LOCK in > the FULL-UP position during a stall and YOU CAN'T GET IT TO COME DOWN > AGAIN. Therefore, the recent fatal crash was NOT pilot error. I suggest > that people read the article before commenting further; it may be > available on their web site. > > Mike Taglieri > Then for GODSAKES BUILD A KR. I can't imagine what this thread has had to do with KR Building or Flying. If I can ever get a copy of the video, I'll post a .mpg of my KR stalling and spinning to the right. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM mailto:jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213w construction and first flight at http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krjeff.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gascolator Cooling From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 20:38:25 -0700 X-Message-Number: 2 On Fri, 28 Jan 2000 07:50:05 -0500 Kenneth L Wiltrout writes: > Since I already have mine installed, just how did you fella's cool yours? > Truthfully I really wasn't aware this was necessary. Sounds like I'm not > done cutting my cowl up yet. > > > KENNY > Since my C-85 installation is virtually identical to the C-85 installation in my Champ, I did exactly the same thing and didn't cool the gascolator. However, I did make sure it was placed in an area whre it would not be exposed to excessive heat. After three summers in most all conditions, it has never showed any indication of a vaporlock. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM mailto:jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213w construction and first flight at http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krjeff.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR-2 0-200 prop From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 20:24:32 -0700 X-Message-Number: 3 On Thu, 27 Jan 2000 07:50:30 -0800 "Ben Flanery" writes: > Hi Guys > I'm new to the KRNET and this is my first post. I'm excited about being > around so many great ideas and solutions to problems. I am a builder and > also an owner of a KR that I bought (stretch fusledge) so I could enjoy > flying during the construction phase. I figured this would be a good plan > to have stick time in the type of plane I was building. My plane has a > Contential 0-200 engine and due to a slight mishap by a friend of mine it > now needs a new prop. Some folks think you should buy cheap props and have a couple of spares cause props get broken. I believe in buying quality and not breaking parts. I bought my prop from Clark Lydic at Performance props (see Kitplanes or Sport Aviation ads). It is a 64 laminate 4" thick prop. You tell him the speeds you expect to fly, the engine you are using and RPM you want to turn. He will build you a prop, apply a light varnish finish and ship it to you for testing. You fly it, then tell him if you want any changes made to it. Ship the prop back to him for trimming and finishing and it will come back with a composite leading edge, the back side blacked out, the tips finish painted, a rock hard epoxy finish, perfectly balanced and turning exactly the RPM you want. Mine cost $650 2 1/2 years ago. The prop was delivered 8 weeks after it was ordered. The turn around time to have it finished was 2 1/2 weeks. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM mailto:jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213w construction and first flight at http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krjeff.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: stainless steel/cadmium (or zinc) contact From: "Stefan B." Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:02:54 +0100 X-Message-Number: 4 My gear axles are made from stainless steel and the bottom brackets are cadmium plated 4130. The bolts I use are zinc plated steel. What could I do to prevent the galvanic corrosion? I do not want to use any plastic there... Stefan Balatchev, Paris, France mailto:Stefan.Balatchev@wanadoo.fr ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR-2 0-200 prop From: "JEAN" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:10:58 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 Martins Phone No. is 918-663-8112. He does not have E-mail Jean N4DD Broken Arrow,OK ----- Original Message ----- From: Ben Flanery To: KR-net users group Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 9:50 AM Subject: [kr-net] KR-2 0-200 prop > Hi Guys > I'm new to the KRNET and this is my first post. I'm excited about being > around so many great ideas and solutions to problems. I am a builder and > also an owner of a KR that I bought (stretch fusledge) so I could enjoy > flying during the construction phase. I figured this would be a good plan > to have stick time in the type of plane I was building. My plane has a > Contential 0-200 engine and due to a slight mishap by a friend of mine it > now needs a new prop. The prop that was installed when I bought it was a > 62 X 72 and I'm not sure that is the right combination. Haris, > (hasharafaol.com), was nice enough to give me the name of Marty Roberts > that flies an 0-200 on his KR. Does anyone know how to put me in touch > with him, or anyone that has a similar combination, or anyone that is > knowledgeable in that field? As expensive as they are I hate to have to > buy two or three to experiment for the right one. I would like to have > some thoughts also on wood versus composite. Also would the expense of a > ground adjustable be justified for getting the right pitch. I am not > knowledgeable at all about props and would appreciate any help I could get. > I want to thank everyone out there for your unselfish attitude of giving > of your knowledge and time to help others. > Ben Flanery > bflanery@neto.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: N4DD@prodigy.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-39510K@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Turbined KR From: "JEAN" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:24:55 -0600 X-Message-Number: 6 Mike has not touched the project since Perrykosh. Having too much fun chasing girls and riding a Harley. Steve Trentman has been flying his some. Seems everything is better since he added the in flight adjustable Warp Drive prop. Speeds are a little dissapointing I think in the 130-140 kt range. It is still an attention getter though and is as smooth as silk to fly. Jean N4DD Broken Arrow,OK ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Janssen To: KR-net users group Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 7:17 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Turbined KR > Jean, > > By the way, we haven't heard much lately (maybe I've been asleep at the > wheel) about Ladigo's turbine. Is he any closer to flying it? Since you're > in the neighborhood, how about an update for us all. > > Ed J. > > -----Original Message----- > From: JEAN > To: KR-net users group > Date: Saturday, January 22, 2000 8:15 PM > Subject: [kr-net] Re: wing attach fittings > > > >I made some for Mike Ladigo's turbine powered KR-1 out of Inconel 718 > >Jean > >N4DD Broken Arrow OK > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: TONY SOLDANO > >To: KR-net users group > >Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 8:43 PM > >Subject: [kr-net] wing attach fittings > > > > > >> Has anybody used stainless steel for there wing fittings? > >> > >> --- > >> You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: N4DD@prodigy.net > >> To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-39510K@telelists.com > > > > > >--- > >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: ejanssen@chipsnet.com > >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17739N@telelists.com > > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: N4DD@prodigy.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-39510K@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: aft spar dihedral From: "dusty welshons" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 11:30:09 -0800 X-Message-Number: 7 HI everyone, I'm dusty and I recently bought a kr-2 project with the boat and all four spars built. I have attached the forward spars already but I am having trouble with the aft spars. I know that the fittings have to have a 3 degree angle bent in them for the trailing edge but I cant find anywhere in the manual that I have to raise the aft spar 5 inches. I would be very greatful for any advice that i can get in this area. thanks, dusty ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: fiberglass weight From: "TONY SOLDANO" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:26:36 -0800 X-Message-Number: 8 What weight fiberglass are you guys using.Wicks sells 5.85oz per sq. yard for the kr. Is that cloth to lightweigt for the job? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: kr-1 bluefoam(polystyrene) wing From: "larry krutsch" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:48:34 -0800 X-Message-Number: 9 is the original kr1 plans built 1973/75 airplane safe to build & fly today? with no mods? are the new foam wings still made the same way? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: hanger From: Laheze@aol.com Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:36:22 EST X-Message-Number: 10 Hi John, I live on a flyin airport and most guys have a minimum of 20' wide driveway. There was one guy that was hardheaded and made his too narrow and at least twice that I can think of had to help him get his airplane unstuck when one wheel fell off the edge of the concrete ( tire sunk into wet ground ) onto the brake caliper. Those Bonanzas can be heavy when not on inflated tires. One more thing of course, make sure if you are making a driveway that is aproaching an apron from the side that you leave enough wingspan distince from the corner of the hangar building. What this means is that in some developments the front side of the hangars are perpindicular to the line of the runway or taxiway. So when you plan your approach, plan wing span accordingly. Have fun and GoodLuck Larry LAHEZE@AOL.COM ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gascolator Cooling From: Laheze@aol.com Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:48:17 EST X-Message-Number: 11 The KR2 that I have repaired was damaged due to engine stopage ( vapor lock ) while on its 4th touch and go takeoff. We all think it just had not had enough forward speed for any length of time while doing the touch and gos here in good ole hot summer heat Texas to get some of the heat out of the engine compartment, and yes the gascolator was not insulated or air cooled and is located on passenger side. Joe at Revmaster said he was sure this was the problem, and that Ken Rand had the same problem with his original KR2 until he insulated the gascolator. This one will be insulated and air blown before it flies I can assure you of that ! Larry LAHEZE@AOL.COM ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: aft spar dihedral From: Mark Jones Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:36:00 +0000 X-Message-Number: 12 dusty welshons wrote: I know that the fittings have to have a 3 degree angle bent in them for the trailing edge but I cant find anywhere in the manual that I have to raise the aft spar 5 inches. Dusty. To set the dihedral the bottom end of the aft spar should be 5 5/8" above the bottom of the center aft spar. This dimension is found on the Spar Details drawing. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.nstscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: fiberglass weight From: Mark Jones Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:38:03 +0000 X-Message-Number: 13 TONY SOLDANO wrote: > What weight fiberglass are you guys using.Wicks sells 5.85oz per sq. yard > for the kr. Is that cloth to lightweigt for the job? > Tony, 5 .85 BID oz cloth is correct. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: fiberglass weight From: cartera Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:46:27 -0700 X-Message-Number: 14 Hi Tony, yep, that's what my whole KR is built out of. No it is not too light, what you building a tank or an aircraft. kiss, kiss, smoootch. Good Luck and Happy Flying! TONY SOLDANO wrote: > > What weight fiberglass are you guys using.Wicks sells 5.85oz per sq. yard > for the kr. Is that cloth to lightweigt for the job? > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: cartera@cuug.ab.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17454M@telelists.com -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: aft spar dihedral From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 18:08:48 -0600 X-Message-Number: 15 dusty welshons wrote: > I know that the fittings have to have a 3 > degree angle bent in them for the trailing edge but I cant find anywhere in > the manual that I have to raise the aft spar 5 inches. I would be very > greatful for any advice that i can get in this area. I don't know that the KR2 plans tell you how to do it with a simple measurement to the bottom of the aft spar, but personally I'd make sure the fuselage was level side to side, mount the aft spar wing attach fittings using only one bolt in the outboard spar (so it can pivot) , and mount the plywood 36" wing tip template to the end of the main spar. Then use the level line on the tip template to get the aft spar where you want it. Clamp it solid and drill the rest of the wing attach fitting holes. This is covered pretty thoroughly at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/owings.html and there's more excruciating details on the actual leveling process at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kspars.html ... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr-1 bluefoam(polystyrene) wing From: Knitehwk@aol.com Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 19:24:10 EST X-Message-Number: 16 hello, have question for anyone who has their KR2 flying and have a good number of hours thus far ....... If the "pitch sensitivity" could be corrected and or tamed to be more pleasent would any of you fly your KR in IMC when the time comes to start construction on mine i may opt to build the spars one piece and would like to continue the taper angle of the out board wing panel leading and trailing edge from the break to the fuselage ...would like to hear comments on this...and has anyone looked into maybe a redesign of the retract system and bring the retract back to a viable option please comments, opinions are appreciated thank you Glenn ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: aft spar dihedral From: Donald Reid Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 20:01:18 -0500 X-Message-Number: 17 At 11:30 AM 01/29/2000 -0800, you wrote: >HI everyone, >I'm dusty and I recently bought a kr-2 project with the boat and all four >spars built. I have attached the forward spars already but I am having >trouble with the aft spars. I know that the fittings have to have a 3 >degree angle bent in them for the trailing edge but I cant find anywhere in >the manual that I have to raise the aft spar 5 inches. I would be very >greatful for any advice that i can get in this area. >thanks, >dusty > I think that what most people do is to have the main spar done, then rig the outer rib to the correct angle. The rear spar dihedral is then defined by the ribs. Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: fiberglass weight From: Donald Reid Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 20:01:57 -0500 X-Message-Number: 18 At 12:26 PM 01/29/2000 -0800, you wrote: >What weight fiberglass are you guys using.Wicks sells 5.85oz per sq. yard >for the kr. Is that cloth to lightweigt for the job? > That is the weight that I used. Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Dragonfly Canopy details! From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 19:26:16 -0600 X-Message-Number: 19 KRNetHeadDragonflyHeads, Mark Lougheed has just done us a huge favor. One of the things that irked me sufficiently in my early days of construction was the total lack of information regarding the shape of the Dragonfly canopy. I couldn't get anybody to even TELL me what it looked like, much less get a drawing from anybody. Well, if you want a free 3D CAD model, and a whole lot more, visit Mark Louhgeed's site at http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/skipper/388/dflycanopysurvey/ . This will BLOW YOU AWAY! This is what the web's all about... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: aft spar dihedral From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:41:52 -0800 X-Message-Number: 20 dusty welshons wrote: I know that the fittings have to have a 3 degree angle bent in them for the trailing edge but I cant find anywhere in the manual that I have to raise the aft spar 5 inches. I would be very > greatful for any advice that i can get in this area. thanks, > dusty > You set the dihedral on the main spar when you drill the WAFs, the aft spar is set when you level the airplane and install the outer rib. This will tell you where the aft spar should fall. This also determines how much washout your wing has. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: fiberglass weight From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:42:31 -0800 X-Message-Number: 21 TONY SOLDANO wrote: > > What weight fiberglass are you guys using.Wicks sells 5.85oz per sq. yard > for the kr. Is that cloth to lightweigt for the job? I used 8 and 6 oz depending on what job. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr-1 bluefoam(polystyrene) wing From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:44:37 -0800 X-Message-Number: 22 larry krutsch wrote: > > is the original kr1 plans built 1973/75 airplane safe to build & fly > today? with no mods? are the new foam wings still made the same way? > The construction methods have not changed, only fiberglass is used instead of dynel fabric. Also blue polystyrene is not what they use. Its green, tan or pink urethane. The plane will be as safe as you build it. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gascolator Cooling From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:48:10 -0800 X-Message-Number: 23 Laheze@aol.com wrote: > > This one will be insulated and air blown before it flies I can assure you of that ! > Good idea! Why bother to install it if it is installed incorrectly? Seems that all the certified airplanes have them isolated and cooled by cooling air. When in doubt just go look and see how Piper and Cessna did it. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: cutting glass cloth From: "w.g. kirkland" Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:26:24 -0500 X-Message-Number: 24 When I was cutting the glass cloth I found the edge would unravel and I would have 3 or 4 strings of glass clinging to my shirt, the scissors, the table and anything else close. The problem has become much worse since winter set in because the air is very dry and the static electricity builds up real quick. The solution is to spray the cloth, the table, yourself and the mold with some of your wife's static guard or equivalent. It greatly reduces the problem. Now to pacify my wife 0:) kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: magnets/compasses From: "w.g. kirkland" Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:17:23 -0500 X-Message-Number: 25 Anytime you add ferrous metal or any magnetic material to your airplane you should do a full check swing on your compass. One off the worst offenders in this area is your earphones. They contain magnets. Many people put them on the cowling right beside the compass. When you do that watch the compass needle. I've seen it swing 30 deg. Keep your earphones away from your compass at all times. W.G. KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gascolator Cooling From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 21:21:54 -0700 X-Message-Number: 26 On Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:48:10 -0800 Mike Mims writes: > Laheze@aol.com wrote: > > > > This one will be insulated and air blown before it flies I can assure you of that ! > > > > > Good idea! Why bother to install it if it is installed incorrectly? > Seems that all the certified airplanes have them isolated and cooled by > cooling air. When in doubt just go look and see how Piper and Cessna > didit. > > -- > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > Micheal Mims Take a look at Stinson and Aeronca and you won't find it cooled. I have tons of hours in both and have never heard of one of them vapor locking. ALL is a pretty broad brush. :o) However, cooling the gascolator isn't a bad idea. I have seen one or two planes get torn up due to vaporlock that was attributed to the gascolator temps. Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM mailto:jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213w construction and first flight at http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krjeff.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cracked VW Case From: "Chris Dunn" Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 21:20:46 PST X-Message-Number: 27 Hi everyone, I just joined your group this week to see what kind of a nut would put a vw engine in an airplne. Actually, I think this plane is one of the coolest things I have seen. I have been building dune buggies for some time and just want to say all vw's leak, there is nothing you can do about it. Anyway have any of you tried Autocrafts engine case? It is an aftermarket case that has been designed for the bigger cylinders and longer strokes. It is a lot stronger than any vw case around. >From: "Seifert, Richard E" >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Cracked VW Case >Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 09:45:30 -0800 > >KR-Netters > Several suppliers sell VW Supercases with a patch welded onto the >case between the # 3 cylinder and the rear main bearing. This patch is >suposed to prevent case cracks in this area. I'm wondering just how >prevalent this cracking condition is in cases used for aircraft >conversions. >Are their any KR-Netters out there with first hand knowledge. My last >flight showed more oil than normal in this area and I'm hopeing it's only >the rear seal that needs replacing. >Rich Seifert KR-2 N56SR > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: chrisdunn64@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-174593S@telelists.com ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Sending sensors From: Laheze@aol.com Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 00:44:21 EST X-Message-Number: 28 Maybe you could use a T fitting to get two from one. Just be carefull of vibration and breakage, I know you would hate to pump all of your oil out. I know a few years ago that we received a notice ( AD ) on the Mooney Aircraft to replace some fittings in the front of the engine case from aluminum to stainless steel. Vibration was causing some of the aluminum fittings to break and then pumping the engines brown blood overboard and then you know the rest of the story. I have some aluminum fittings in the Revmaster Engine that I have now and will probably replace them before flight. Larry laheze@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: cutting glass cloth From: Laheze@aol.com Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 01:31:55 EST X-Message-Number: 29 I would be carefull of introducing your fiberglass cloth to any foreign chemicals, especilly directly on fiberglass cloth. That cloth when woven goes through several chemical cleaning processes normally. If you want your resin system to bond properly to the glass fibers please keep them as clean as possible. When handling your cloth just roll up your cut pieces and place them on your work and carefully unroll them and you should not encounter too many string problems. For anyone new on here when you are applying resin to your glass, do not wipe of the edge of your cut edges of cloth or you will have a string problem. Close to edges it is better to stipple straight down with little wiping motion. Larry Howell laheze@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: cutting glass cloth From: Lon V Boothby Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 00:16:19 -0800 X-Message-Number: 30 sorry for the ignorance here, but I really would like to learn, what so you mean by stipple down? Thanks ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com