From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: March 10, 2000 Date: Saturday, March 11, 2000 1:41 AM KR-NET Digest2 for Friday, March 10, 2000. 1. Re: Just thinking... 2. Plywood skins? 3. KR2 Plans 4. The right Engine for a KR 5. 250 kt KR 6. KR-net Archives 7. Re: Just thinking... 8. Re: Just thinking... 9. Re: More Engine Questions 10. RE: Aft Spar/ WAF ??? 11. Re: More Engine Questions 12. Re: More Engine Questions 13. Re: [kr-net] 14. LED Flashlight ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Just thinking... From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 06:49:36 EST X-Message-Number: 1 In a message dated 03/09/2000 10:19:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, KMcke10305@aol.com writes: << I was thinking about ply skins coating with epoxy or resin. Maybe this is way out of line, but I thought it was something to consider. >> Steve Bennett at Great Plains did just that. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Plywood skins? From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 06:35:42 -0600 X-Message-Number: 2 I know of one person (he built and flew one of the early KR-1s and then made a start on a stock KR-2) who, several years ago, was building a modified KR-2 with plywood wing skins because he wanted to get away from fiberglass work. I took quite a bit of video footage, as it really looked good. However, due to a relocation, the project was sold before he completely finished the airplane. He used rod end bearings for hinges in the tail surfaces (like some guys are trying today), was fitting a T-18 canopy to the airframe, used a bent up 5/8 alum. gear (similar to the Sonerai setup), and had installed a 2600 cc VW with top mounted carb. Ed Janssen > > Is there anyway at all to build the KR2-S without getting into the > fiberglass > > and all of the sanding? I was thinking about ply skins coating with epoxy > or > > resin. Maybe this is way out of line, but I thought it was something to > > consider. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR2 Plans From: "Dave Vieira" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 06:01:47 -0800 X-Message-Number: 3 Hello I'm lookin for KR2 plans, if anyone is sellin them leave me a message with a price, and ill get back to you really soon Thanks -Dave ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: The right Engine for a KR From: "Seifert, Richard E" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 06:54:58 -0800 X-Message-Number: 4 Bold KR pilots that want to grow to be old KR pilots would be wise to listen to Melloflyer's comment again. My feeling is that a VW of 1835cc for a light KR and a 2400cc for a heavier one would be plenty of engine unless you are trying for a climb speed record. Trying to fly a KR at 200mph in level flight may be attainable but unless you are in smooth air the ride may be rather rough with the wing loading the KR has. The added horsepower of a larger engine would be offset by the added weight and greater fuel burn which would require large fuel capacity which means more added weight. A larger engine will also cause CG adjustments that may be difficult. Building this airplane as it was designed is always the quickest way from construction start to the day it flies with no surprises. I truly believe this aircraft is best used as a day VFR fun flyer. If you want to go fast and carry a large load, fly at nite and IFR then I think a Glassair or a Lanceair is a better choice. Food for thought , Melloflyer ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: 250 kt KR From: shanspur@webtv.net (shannon spurgeon) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 09:56:13 -0600 (CST) X-Message-Number: 5 Exposing my ignorance here, but flutter is probably the biggest worry in regard to these kind of speeds, not structural strength. Of course, reaching this speed would require obsessive drag reduction. It would probably be simpler to get plans for a Cassut or Shoestring (formula 1) racer. Only one seat, but how often do you take company? Even these racers need wildly oversped - around 4000 rpm - O-200's to attain their speed. Bottom line, this much speed is difficult and expensive to reach, and that's just not why we are attracted to the KR's. Happy building, happy flying Shannon (grounded again by wx {:( in Wichita) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR-net Archives From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 10:34:20 +0000 X-Message-Number: 6 Teleport will make an attempt to re-install the Lyris software this month and if it works they will continue to support lists for a brief time. The downside is that after the 13th, the ARCHIVES of past KR-net activities will be GONE. I have not been saving the archives myself, and may not have time to work with Teleport to obtain the Lyris archives before the cut off. (I will be traveling next week). I therefore am asking for help. If you can go to the website http://www.krnet.org, and click on the KR-net logo, you should be able to get to the lyris website and get to the archives. There is also an email interface, but I don't have the commands handy, so that we could request that the digests be emailed to you. I will try and do this over the weekend. But if I'm unsuccessful we may loose some of our archived contents. -- Regards Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Just thinking... From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 10:41:34 +0000 X-Message-Number: 7 Buy the wing skins and pre-molded parts. You still have to sand, but it is MUCH less. (At least it seems that way to me, I didn't buy them). -- Ross KMcke10305@aol.com wrote: > Is there anyway at all to build the KR2-S without getting into the fiberglass > and all of the sanding? I was thinking about ply skins coating with epoxy or > resin. Maybe this is way out of line, but I thought it was something to > consider. > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17523X@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Just thinking... From: Mike Mims Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 09:50:20 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 8 > KMcke10305@aol.com wrote: > > > Is there anyway at all to build the KR2-S without > getting into the fiberglass and all of the sanding>> Yes build a metal plane. Sonex, RV-9 etc. ===== ........| .......-^- ....-/_____\- ...(O\__o__/O) ...[#]oxxxo[#] -----Y2K Bug--- Yes I drive one! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: More Engine Questions From: Richard Selix Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 11:48:24 -0800 X-Message-Number: 9 KR-netters: Just a word about wing incidence: Designers determine wing incidence based on having the aircraft fly dead level at cruise speed, at a certain expected altitude, and an expected cruise weight. Any deviation from those parameters will induce either a nose down or a nose up condition, (however slight), requiring increased trim imputs. If the designer determined the incidence angle too high, the aircraft will fly nose low at the designed altitude, speed, and weight. If the designer has the incidence too low, the oppo- site occurs. I have heard of "flying on the step" for the last 30+ years, but haven't been able to substantiate it, aerodynamically. Richard Selix mailto:rselix@earthlink.net The Muses wrote: > At 03:42 PM 03/08/2000 -0700, you wrote: > >It is not only the HP that governs the speed . It is how you fly it. You can > >a great deal better performance if you get used to flying " on the step" > >That is if you have a plane with a 4 degree angle of incidence , you fly > >what appears .to be 4 degrees degrees below the horizon. Try it, You won't > >loose altitude. > > > > Thanks, I never knew what allowed us(N122B and me) to 'get on step' but > when we do we get about a 12 mph increase in speed. I have been able to do > it a few times but I never realized what allowed it. When we weren't able > to 'get on step', I just thought that the engine was not as strong that > day. I will go try your way. > > Bobby > > Bobby Muse > N122B - Wimberley, TX > mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rselix@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-95880U@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: Aft Spar/ WAF ??? From: "emiglesias" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 09:44:23 -0300 X-Message-Number: 10 Trent I had to add a layer but of plywod in each side of the inner spar so that the WAFcoincided. Eduardo emiglesias@cpenet.com.ar ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: More Engine Questions From: "emiglesias" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 20:47:58 -0300 X-Message-Number: 11 Richard: For those airfoils that have a "dive moment", another way exists of compensating and consists on adding a movement to the control stick: coordinated movement of ailerons. That is to say that you can move about 8° both ailerons up or down. When moving them up the dive moment it is compensated in the same wing, without producing bigger resistance.It is a mechanism that have some gliders and it adds them speed in cruise. Eduardo emiglesias@cpenet.com.ar ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: More Engine Questions From: "Ron Eason" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 20:34:07 -0600 X-Message-Number: 12 -----Original Message----- From: CHOCTAWCWR@aol.com To: KR-net users group Date: Thursday, March 09, 2000 8:38 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: More Engine Questions >Oh Please, lets not stone the corvair because of nader, he said the corvair >was unsafe because of its handeling drawbacks, i seriousely doubt if any one >will be putting wings on the car. the engine is a well proven design. The car was OK also, no worse than the VW with its light crash protection. The Corvair was made in America and that was fair game to Nader the anti-American lawyer. I know something about them I built them at the Leeds Plant in KCMO when I was sending myself through college. KRRon ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: [kr-net] From: "Tim Bellville" Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 22:03:22 -0500 X-Message-Number: 13 Can anyone give me some ideas how to increase the size of my mag mount hole in my accessory case from 3" to 3 1/4"?Every thing lines up but that. I've considered honing it out but I'm worried about it remaining true. Thanks Tim ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: LED Flashlight From: David Mullins Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 00:03:47 -0500 X-Message-Number: 14 Hey KRNetters, Here is a LED flashlight perfect for aviation. It is available with a white, blue, green or red LED. a lanyard is available for an extra $2.95. I bought two whites and they work great, Very Bright. Dave M Nashua, New Hampshire http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=276878724 RE-DEFINING THE FLASHLIGHT This brilliant, compact (3"long X 1 3/8"wide X 1"thick) 9 volt powered, white LED illuminated light has 4 OPERATING MODES. It's the perfect light to carry while traveling to work or a long trip or anytime. 1. ALWAYS ON: When not in use, your light will have a soft beam or glow to locate the flashlight instantly (a portable night light). Whether in your glove box, tool box, purse or bedside, you'll always find it. A fresh battery keeps it glowing for over 2 1/2 years. 2. LOW BEAM: A perfect reading light for maps, charts, books or finding the loose change that falls in between the front seats. It will shine for over 200 hours on this mode. 3. HIGH BEAM: Guaranteed you'll never stumble in the dark. This high powered, pure white light illuminates up to 100 feet and can be seen for almost a half a mile. On continuously, it will shine for 20 hours (a conventional incandescent, 2 AA powered light runs about 75 minutes). 4. STROBE LIGHT: This mode will remind you of an aviation strobe. Place your blinking light on the dash of your car and you'll never lose your vehicle in a crowded parking lot. And no thief will dare enter this "armed" vehicle. This mode can be seen for almost half a mile (for any unexpected emergencies) and will continuously strobe for 200 hours. Your light is supplied with a fresh 9 volt alkaline battery. The water-resistant soft rubber case protects all the electronic components (an actual circuit board) from corrosion and the shock from dropping. The special "HBLED" (high brightness light emitting diode) has no filament to jar loose and will last almost 12 years. Buyer pays: $2.50 1st Class mail. SAVE: only $1 for ea. add'l light ordered. Fantastic product, fair shipping $, fast delivery. CHECK FEEDBACK! --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com