From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 24 May 2000 00:36:37 -0000 Issue 31 Date: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 4:36 PM krnet Digest 24 May 2000 00:36:37 -0000 Issue 31 Topics (messages 645 through 674): Sad news for the KR Family 645 by: Bob Vermeulen fuel gauge 646 by: david barner 647 by: Mike Mims 650 by: Mark Langford 655 by: GARYKR2.cs.com 659 by: virgnvs.juno.com 666 by: Gaston Landry 667 by: Ed Janssen FUEL TANKS 648 by: Schmidt, Curtis 652 by: AviationMech.aol.com 664 by: w.g. kirkland GPASC 649 by: Mike Mims Re: one canopy strut 651 by: macwood Re: engine change (Wing Walk) 653 by: Kenneth L Wiltrout Re: engine change 654 by: GARYKR2.cs.com Lake Barkly Flyin 656 by: GARYKR2.cs.com 658 by: KRkip.aol.com Flying Flt Sim 657 by: AviationMech.aol.com 669 by: cartera Fuel tank epoxy 660 by: Joseph H. Horton 661 by: RONALD.FREIBERGER 662 by: w.g. kirkland 663 by: w.g. kirkland 672 by: AviationMech.aol.com Re: wing walk-lighter side. 665 by: KR2616TJ.aol.com Prop size 668 by: Florin L Pintea 671 by: Leonardo 674 by: larry flesner Corvair/KR2 Prop size 670 by: IMA FLYER 673 by: Mike Mims Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:38:59 -0400 To: From: "Bob Vermeulen" Subject: Sad news for the KR Family Message-Id: <200005221630.MAA25692@marconi.concentric.net> To all my KR friends, I just received the news from Sharon at Rand Robinson that Jeanette's mother passed away early on Sunday morning. As many of you know, she had been ill for quite some time and had required a lot of care these past few months. I talked for some time with Jeanette last Friday and she was saying that both her mother and the family were all prepared, and knew that the time would be short. Sharon said that at around 3am Sunday, Jeanette's mom asked her to call Jeanette's brother to the bedside. Apparently she passed away shortly after that. Jeanette and the family are doing well. There will be a memorial service on Wednesday and a service and burial on Thursday in St. Louis. Jeanette will be spending some time with family in St. Louis and won't be back to the office till after May 31. Phone calls to Rand Robinson will probably make it difficult for Sharon, but I'm sure Sympathy cards and notes, or flowers would be a great way to share our love and comfort. Remember Jeanette will be gone for a week. Your friend, Video Bob ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:54:25 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: david barner Subject: fuel gauge Message-ID: <39296641.72F8E578@frognet.net> does anyone have any idea on how to put a fuel sending unit in a tank after it's built? I was thinking of cutting a hole in the side to mount it and glass over it, but if it ever goes bad I'd have to do it all over again. I'd like to try and glass in a piece that the sending unit would bolt to. Anyone have any idea's ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:56:44 -0700 (PDT) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Mike Mims Subject: Re: KR> fuel gauge Message-ID: <20000522185644.16989.qmail@web1402.mail.yahoo.com> --- david barner wrote: > does anyone have any idea on how to put a fuel > sending unit in a tank after it's built?>>> The only reason I installed a fuel sending unit and gauge in my wing tank is to satisfy the FAA. If mine ever fails then that’s just the way it is. In my opinion ALL fuel sending tyep gauges are broken. If you cant visually see the fuel and you forgot to visually check the fuel level before takeoff then your asking for it. Never trust a fuel gauge. Build yourself a dipstick that is marked every 5 gallons. Check your fuel before EVERY take off. Fuel related issues have downed more KRs and killed more KR pilots than all other issues combined. Think about that. ===== ........| .......-^- ....-/_____\- ...(O\__o__/O) ...[#]oxxxo[#] -----Y2K Bug--- Yes I drive one! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 14:58:40 -0500 To: , From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> fuel gauge Message-ID: <002401bfc428$2f5811a0$61e6a58c@scat4.tbe.com> >does anyone have any idea on how to put a fuel sending unit in a tank >after it's built? The VDO "universal" fuel sending unit comes with a mounting plate which you could mount to the top of the tank. The result would be just like replacing the sending unit in an old Beetle. It's about a $25 part, gauge, flange, and all, and can be mounted in either top or side of tank... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 21:11:26 EDT To: skypilot@frognet.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> fuel gauge Message-ID: <20.643661b.265b34be@cs.com> In a message dated 5/22/00 12:51:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, skypilot@frognet.net writes: << does anyone have any idea on how to put a fuel sending unit in a tank after it's built? I was thinking of cutting a hole in the side to mount it and glass over it, but if it ever goes bad I'd have to do it all over again. I'd like to try and glass in a piece that the sending unit would bolt to. Anyone have any idea's >> The sending units in the wing tanks of my "2" are glassed in place. In hind sight, glassing in a mounting plate would have been the better choice. My thoughts lean towards using 6061 T6, 1/8 thick. You can thread the holes and mount directly to the plate. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 22:37:06 -0700 To: kr2sflyer@yahoo.com From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> fuel gauge Message-ID: <20000522.224641.-494147.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Not just KR pilots!! Virg On Mon, 22 May 2000 11:56:44 -0700 (PDT) Mike Mims writes: > > --- david barner wrote: > > does anyone have any idea on how to put a fuel > > sending unit in a tank after it's built?>>> > > The only reason I installed a fuel sending unit and > gauge in my wing tank is to satisfy the FAA. If mine > ever fails then that’s just the way it is. In my > opinion ALL fuel sending tyep gauges are broken. If > you cant visually see the fuel and you forgot to > visually check the fuel level before takeoff then your > asking for it. Never trust a fuel gauge. Build > yourself a dipstick that is marked every 5 gallons. > Check your fuel before EVERY take off. Fuel related > issues have downed more KRs and killed more KR pilots > than all other issues combined. Think about that. > > ===== > ........| > .......-^- > ....-/_____\- > ...(O\__o__/O) > ...[#]oxxxo[#] > -----Y2K Bug--- > Yes I drive one! > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://im.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 09:36:40 ADT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Gaston Landry" Subject: Re: KR> fuel gauge Message-ID: <20000523123640.51897.qmail@hotmail.com> one thought that came to mind, when I saw this, was: a rigid plastic tube (clear... the type used in home-brewing would work well, I'd think), stick it into the tank, to the bottom, then plug the top with your thumb, and pull it out to see the level. You'd of course have it marked... just my 3 cents worth... (which works out to about 2 cents U.S.) Gaston Landry >From: Mike Mims >Build yourself a dipstick that is marked every 5 gallons. >Check your fuel before EVERY take off ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 07:50:45 -0500 To: "Gaston Landry" , From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Subject: Re: KR> fuel gauge Message-ID: <003201bfc4b5$84097440$c50e2bd8@fasteddie> A 1/4" wood dowel works great for me. I make two or three at a time to put in the hanger, so they're handy. Draw the calibration pattern on the hanger wall to use when you need to make another one. Easy to read and to replace if you lose it. Make a little clip to keep it from rolling around inside the plane. Ed > one thought that came to mind, when I saw this, was: a rigid plastic tube > (clear... the type used in home-brewing would work well, I'd think), stick > it into the tank, to the bottom, then plug the top with your thumb, and pull > it out to see the level. You'd of course have it marked... > just my 3 cents worth... (which works out to about 2 cents U.S.) > > Gaston Landry > > > >From: Mike Mims > >Build yourself a dipstick that is marked every 5 gallons. > >Check your fuel before EVERY take off ------------------------------ Date: 22 May 2000 14:00:00 -0700 To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Schmidt, Curtis" Subject: FUEL TANKS Message-ID: <0004D58A@kaydon.com> WHAT HAS BEEN THE EXPERIENCES WITH THE RAND PRE MOLDED TANK ? IS IT WORTH THE $170.00 OR SHOULD I BUILD MY OWN? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 16:58:11 EDT To: cschmidt@kaydon.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: AviationMech@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> FUEL TANKS Message-ID: <3f.51c0cb2.265af963@aol.com> N110LR has the Rand tank. I also used the Rand forward deck. once the seams are glued together (I used polyester resin since the tank was constructed of the same material) I leak checked several times with water repaired all the leaks, then leaked checked with fuel and repaired those leaks. The process was laborious, but he tank has not leaked or failed. The same is not true for the tank that I built from foam. The Rand tank as installed sits on the flats of angle brackets mounted to each longeron. the bracket has rubber pads on top to prevent chaffing between the tank and bracket. I used a commercial fuel cap assembly installing it in the top of the tank using rivets and PRC compound 1899B1/2, to make the two parts seal. The upper side of the tank has sealed nutplates installed to allow the forward deck to be attached to the tank at the filler opening and can be removed when necessary. I am using a capacitence type sender and gauge. the tank probe is mounted to the aft wall of the tank in the area of the radio stack. Again this tank opening was sealed with the PRC compound. Orma aviationmech@aol.com http://members.aol.com/aviationmech ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 00:49:58 -0400 To: "Schmidt, Curtis" , From: "w.g. kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> FUEL TANKS Message-Id: <200005230449.AAA00669@dreams.vianet.on.ca> ------=_NextPart_000_01BFC450.D1E5F680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Curtis; Built my own and spent way more than $170 US. Of course I had to do mine twice. W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------- > From: Schmidt, Curtis > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> FUEL TANKS > Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 5:00 PM > > WHAT HAS BEEN THE EXPERIENCES WITH THE RAND PRE MOLDED TANK ? > IS IT WORTH THE $170.00 OR SHOULD I BUILD MY OWN? > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------=_NextPart_000_01BFC450.D1E5F680-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:39:43 -0700 (PDT) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Mike Mims Subject: GPASC Message-ID: <20000522193943.7696.qmail@web1406.mail.yahoo.com> You guys need to get on over to the new Great Plains site. It has tons of how to information (under instructions) now. Makes me wish I was using a VW! http://www.greatplainsas.com/index.html gpasc@earthlink.net ===== ........| .......-^- ....-/_____\- ...(O\__o__/O) ...[#]oxxxo[#] -----Y2K Bug--- Yes I drive one! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 21:22:58 +0100 To: "Bob Smith" , From: "macwood" Subject: Re: KR> one canopy strut Message-ID: <003901bfc42b$9e6dd860$dd553c3e@tinypc> Hi Bob, I've just fitted a new spinner,SN-4 in the AS&S catalogue, and the bulkhead plate sits 20mm inside the spinner when flush with the spinner edge. (sorry that was a reply to Kenny's!) To Bob,- I have a 7" gas strut mounted on the starboard side only of my plans built canopy. It came off a Vulcan B2 ,but I have to admit it's not ideal and a slight gust will blow it shut and you have to look out for your essentials! I made a safety clip to prevent this , but it sort of defeats the object. Hope these little gems help! Cheers ; Mac W Hampshire UK Original Message ----- From: Bob Smith To: Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 8:34 PM Subject: KR> one canopy strut I know that many are using dual canopy struts to lift a forward hinged canopy. Has anyone ever tried using only one gas-strut on the right side to do the job? It would seem to save some weight and keep a strut out of your way in the pilots seat. Does anyone know if only one strut would work? Bob Smith (remember, ounces add up to pounds) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 17:25:42 -0400 To: AviationMech@aol.com From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Cc: LIVD0124@natref.com, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> engine change (Wing Walk) Message-ID: <20000522.172543.-232253.1.klw1953@juno.com> Depending on how tall you are it is possible to step directly onto the seat without ever stepping on the stub wing, I'm 6' even and have no trouble getting in at all. I did install a wing walk for my shorter (Future) passengers. PS I have the Diehl tri gear> On Mon, 22 May 2000 08:21:43 EDT AviationMech@aol.com writes: > Support is required, only the spar can support your weight and what > happens > when you miss and step on the class. It will crack the foam under > it and you > could go through. With a tail wheel a step area is optional. With > a nose > wheel, the side of the fuse is too high to step over. > > Orma > aviationmech@aol.com > http://members.aol.com/aviationmech > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 20:24:31 EDT To: LIVD0124@natref.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> engine change Message-ID: In a message dated 5/22/00 8:17:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, LIVD0124@natref.com writes: << Hello Netters Have any of you built in support in the wings were you and your passenger stand when getting in and out of the KR or will glassing the top (2layers BID) and bottom (1 layer BID inside the wing) on the top foam pannel be suffcient? Thanks in advance (I hit reply all -ha ha) Danny Livingstone South Africa >> I put 3 extra layers of glass on the wing walk area, and it holds me fine. 200lbs. (Down to 180lbs now) Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 22:01:16 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Lake Barkly Flyin Message-ID: <77.46f5baf.265b406c@cs.com> Jerry Wells was over at my hanger last weekend with his "2" and finally decided to make the trip to Lake Barkley with me this year. I'm finishing up the annual inspection and a Top overhaul on the engine. I had an idea that may be fun. All of those who are in the North East and are flying to Lake Barkley, let's join up along the way and have an Air Armada to the flyin. Those from VA, NC, SC, W.Va., we could meet at one of the airports along the way. Then arrive as a group. Jerry and I were planing to depart on Thursday. This is to allow for a rain day. But If every one else was going on Friday, that's when we'll go. It's not too early to start planning this. I will do my best to get this all together if there is interest. Like the raids on Germany during W.W.II. The Cessnas and Pipers will be the bombers, the KRs will be the fighter escort. LET'S DO IT FOR THE CORP.! WE CAN WIN THE WAR! Gary Hinkle(A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 22:33:51 EDT To: GARYKR2@cs.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: KRkip@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Lake Barkly Flyin Message-ID: Gary tell me where you want to meet. I will be flying in from Maine if the weather permits and would love to meet up with some other KR pilots. I will be leaving Thursday and plan to make the trip in one day Kip ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 22:06:09 EDT To: KR2616TJ@aol.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: AviationMech@aol.com Subject: Flying Flt Sim Message-ID: <15.4264fe7.265b4191@aol.com> Dana thanks for the help. It flys, but thank goodness the real KR is easier to fly. The sim is dynamicly unstable, as compared to the real, which is stable. At some points the sim seemed real. If you could reset the sim to climb at 500 to 800 ft/min, and could add an airspeed, it would be ok. The pitch is sensative, yet it does not stop climbing or diving as quickly as the real. It feels like the elevator is all or not at allThe VSI was constantly slamming up and down. I tried to adjust it and have not found the corrrect spot yet, I did get a new since of urgency to get mine flying. Orma aviationmech@aol.com http://members.aol.com/aviationmech ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 10:56:49 -0600 To: AviationMech@aol.com From: cartera CC: KR2616TJ@aol.com, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Flying Flt Sim Message-ID: <392AB851.4C199FF2@cuug.ab.ca> AviationMech@aol.com wrote: > > Dana thanks for the help. It flys, but thank goodness the real KR is easier > to fly. The sim is dynamicly unstable, as compared to the real, which is > stable. At some points the sim seemed real. If you could reset the sim to > climb at 500 to 800 ft/min, and could add an airspeed, it would be ok. The > pitch is sensative, yet it does not stop climbing or diving as quickly as the > real. It feels like the elevator is all or not at allThe VSI was constantly > slamming up and down. I tried to adjust it and have not found the corrrect > spot yet, I did get a new since of urgency to get mine flying. > > Orma > aviationmech@aol.com > http://members.aol.com/aviationmech > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org Orma, Try to keep it at 1500rpm, seems to be a bit more manageable at this engine speed. At full throttle it seems to go crazy and your right the full size (real) one is a lot easier to fly. Enjoy! -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 23:03:16 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Joseph H. Horton" Subject: Fuel tank epoxy Message-ID: <20000522.230322.-321359.1.joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com> Hi KR Guys; Just a note that may save someone else some searching. A couple weeks ago I got the epoxy to build my wing tanks. When I went to read the instructions there weren't any . The only thing on the lables was the warnings of how bad the stuff is for you. I called the manufacturer and they were very helpful. The product I have is polyester resin pt.# 6060-5 from Aircraft Spruce. The mix ratio is 5cc to 1 pint which he said to use the cap from the catalyst . That, level full is almost exactly 5cc. Pot time at room temp is 20 to25 minutes. One hour work time. Overnite to cure. This stuff remains tacky so that other layers can be applied without sanding. A cure coat must be applied to get rid of the tackyness. PVA works for this. The PVA should be applied approx. 1 hr. after lay up is done. let it cure overnite and then just rinse the PVA off with clean water. There were a couple other things that could be used for curing but I didn't write them down since I had the PVA. If anyone else needs their help the phone number is (562) 921-5206. Happy Building , Joe Horton ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 22:24:19 -0500 To: "Joseph H. Horton" , From: "RONALD.FREIBERGER" Subject: RE: KR> Fuel tank epoxy Message-ID: Joe; Polyester resin is not epoxy, and not very suitable for structural parts. It's boat stuff. Ron Freiberger...In Sunny Kokomo mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: Joseph H. Horton [mailto:joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com] Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 10:03 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> Fuel tank epoxy Hi KR Guys; Just a note that may save someone else some searching. A couple weeks ago I got the epoxy to build my wing tanks. When I went to read the instructions there weren't any . The only thing on the lables was the warnings of how bad the stuff is for you. I called the manufacturer and they were very helpful. The product I have is polyester resin pt.# 6060-5 from Aircraft Spruce. The mix ratio is 5cc to 1 pint which he said to use the cap from the catalyst . That, level full is almost exactly 5cc. Pot time at room temp is 20 to25 minutes. One hour work time. Overnite to cure. This stuff remains tacky so that other layers can be applied without sanding. A cure coat must be applied to get rid of the tackyness. PVA works for this. The PVA should be applied approx. 1 hr. after lay up is done. let it cure overnite and then just rinse the PVA off with clean water. There were a couple other things that could be used for curing but I didn't write them down since I had the PVA. If anyone else needs their help the phone number is (562) 921-5206. Happy Building , Joe Horton ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. --------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 00:30:43 -0400 To: , "Joseph H. Horton" From: "w.g. kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tank epoxy Message-Id: <200005230429.AAA28380@dreams.vianet.on.ca> ------=_NextPart_000_01BFC44E.218C4FC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joe et all; If you are working with poly or vinyl ester resins I strongly suggest you obtain the additive "BYK S-750". It grearly reduces the odour from the styrene. Until I discovered this product I was almost banished from the house. It's made in Germany. Check BYK on the net. Your local dealer should have it. Add in the same ratio as MEKP. W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------- > From: Joseph H. Horton > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> Fuel tank epoxy > Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 11:03 PM > > Hi KR Guys; > Just a note that may save someone else some searching. A couple weeks > ago I got the epoxy to > build my wing tanks. When I went to read the instructions there weren't > any . The only thing on the lables was the warnings of how bad the stuff > is for you. I called the manufacturer and they were very helpful. The > product > I have is polyester resin pt.# 6060-5 from Aircraft Spruce. The mix ratio > is 5cc to 1 pint which he said to use the cap from the catalyst . That, > level full is almost exactly 5cc. Pot time at room temp is 20 to25 > minutes. One > hour work time. Overnite to cure. This stuff remains tacky so that other > layers can be applied without sanding. > A cure coat must be applied to get rid of the tackyness. PVA works for > this. The PVA should be applied approx. 1 hr. after lay up is done. let > it cure overnite and then just rinse the PVA off with clean water. There > were a couple other things that could be used for curing but I didn't > write them down since I had the PVA. If > anyone else needs their help the phone number is (562) 921-5206. > Happy Building , Joe Horton > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------=_NextPart_000_01BFC44E.218C4FC0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 00:47:21 -0400 To: , "Joseph H. Horton" , From: "w.g. kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tank epoxy Message-Id: <200005230446.AAA00377@dreams.vianet.on.ca> ------=_NextPart_000_01BFC450.741ABB80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ron et all; The people I buy from at fiberglass factory outlet recommend vinyl ester over epoxy for fuel tanks as it is more fuel resistant and almost as strong. They do not recommend the esters for use below the water line. W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------- > From: RONALD.FREIBERGER > To: Joseph H. Horton ; krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: RE: KR> Fuel tank epoxy > Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 11:24 PM > > Joe; Polyester resin is not epoxy, and not very suitable for structural > parts. It's boat stuff. > > Ron Freiberger...In Sunny Kokomo > mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joseph H. Horton [mailto:joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com] > Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 10:03 PM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> Fuel tank epoxy > > > Hi KR Guys; > Just a note that may save someone else some searching. A couple weeks > ago I got the epoxy to > build my wing tanks. When I went to read the instructions there weren't > any . The only thing on the lables was the warnings of how bad the stuff > is for you. I called the manufacturer and they were very helpful. The > product > I have is polyester resin pt.# 6060-5 from Aircraft Spruce. The mix ratio > is 5cc to 1 pint which he said to use the cap from the catalyst . That, > level full is almost exactly 5cc. Pot time at room temp is 20 to25 > minutes. One > hour work time. Overnite to cure. This stuff remains tacky so that other > layers can be applied without sanding. > A cure coat must be applied to get rid of the tackyness. PVA works for > this. The PVA should be applied approx. 1 hr. after lay up is done. let > it cure overnite and then just rinse the PVA off with clean water. There > were a couple other things that could be used for curing but I didn't > write them down since I had the PVA. If > anyone else needs their help the phone number is (562) 921-5206. > Happy Building , Joe Horton > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------=_NextPart_000_01BFC450.741ABB80-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 15:55:35 EDT To: ron.martha@mindspring.com, joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: AviationMech@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tank epoxy Message-ID: <31.578393b.265c3c37@aol.com> Polyester resin is good with fuel, where as some epoxies are not completely compatable Orma aviationmech@aol.com http://members.aol.com/aviationmech ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 07:34:51 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> wing walk-lighter side. Message-ID: In a message dated 05/22/2000 8:26:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, GARYKR2@cs.com writes: << Have any of you built in support in the wings were you and your passenger stand when getting in and out of the KR or will glassing the top (2layers BID) and bottom (1 layer BID inside the wing) on the top foam pannel be suffcient? >> Guys, this is not a "certified" structural analysis but it worked for me:-). I took a piece of carbon fiber, about one foot square, and threw it in the burn pile. After that I pitched it in the back yard. I have run over it with the ol John Deere every time I have cut the grass (OK don't go getting smart and ask me how many times I cut the grass:-) since last summer. I am yet able to cut it into two pieces. All the mower has done to it is throw it around the back yard. I kinda doubt the FAA or NTSB use this strategy but it's pretty darn impressive. Moral to the story.....................save weight and put on a layer of carbon fiber. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:31:34 -0700 To: "KR-Net" From: "Florin L Pintea" Subject: Prop size Message-ID: <001101bfc4cb$fa69b4e0$25194618@cgws1.ab.wave.home.com> ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BFC491.4DE1AA00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone have the actual prop size and make (diameter and pitch) for = the KR-2S with Corvair (stock 110 HP with OT10 cam) and tri gear = configuration? I would also appreciate if you could post gear height and = what kind it is (custom or Diehl, RR) and the type and size of = tires/wheels you use. I want to test run my engine on the stand soon and = need to come up with the "right" prop match. Thanks Florin ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BFC491.4DE1AA00-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 16:50:31 -0300 To: "Florin L Pintea" , "KR-Net" From: "Leonardo" Subject: Re: KR> Prop size Message-ID: <004101bfc4f0$42d650c0$6f80fea9@estacao1> hi there! in my plane the distance from the engine center line to the floor is 68" what makes possible use of max 58-60" prop diameter .the tires and wheels are 500x5 cleveland and the gear ar kit came from diehl that are main legs aluminun cast braket, steel wheell holder , nose wheel leg and mount suport for the great plains engine mount what i changed a bit for the new mount for the continental(o-200 100hp) engine . the prop i,m going to use is a wood prop made here in Brazil for a very competent guy called Rupert and is a 60"diameter x 66 picht for first trys .i hope this info is good for you. Leo,Brazil,kr2s. -----Mensagem original----- De: Florin L Pintea Para: KR-Net Data: Terça-feira, 23 de Maio de 2000 11:17 Assunto: KR> Prop size Does anyone have the actual prop size and make (diameter and pitch) for the KR-2S with Corvair (stock 110 HP with OT10 cam) and tri gear configuration? I would also appreciate if you could post gear height and what kind it is (custom or Diehl, RR) and the type and size of tires/wheels you use. I want to test run my engine on the stand soon and need to come up with the "right" prop match. Thanks Florin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 19:40:48 -0500 To: "Leonardo" , "Florin L Pintea" , "KR-Net" From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Prop size Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20000523194048.007bb800@mail.midwest.net> At 04:50 PM 5/23/00 -0300, Leonardo wrote: >for the continental(o-200 100hp) engine . the prop i,m going to use is a >wood prop made here in Brazil for a very competent guy called Rupert and is >a 60"diameter x 66 picht for first trys .i hope this info is good for you. > Leo,Brazil,kr2s. ======================================================================== I purchased a prop from Ed Sterba several years ago (not yet flown) and he recommended a 60D X 68P for my 0-200. This is very close to what Marty Roberts is running on his 0-200 although he has had several different prop and I don't know what he is flying right now. Maybe Gene could give us more info for the 0-200 as he flys with Marty and is converting "Ole Blue" to the 0-200. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: 23 May 00 14:23:27 CDT To: "Florin L Pintea" , "KR-Net" From: IMA FLYER Subject: Corvair/KR2 Prop size Message-ID: <20000523192327.2862.qmail@www0k.netaddress.usa.net> >>Does anyone have the actual prop size and make (diameter and pitch) fo= r >>the KR-2S with Corvair (stock 110 HP with OT10 cam) = >>Thanks >>Florin I've been looking into this very issue for some time. I know a local buil= der here in Minneapolis that is just about to put his KR2 in the air for the = first time using a stock corvair. He currently has a 55x55 and he's done some preliminary ground testing. This size is commonly used in VW's with the n= ormal 80hp available. Since the 'Vair' produces 1/3 more hp I'm expecting him t= o change up before too long. I wanted to be sure of the info I was offering= so I called up Lonnie Prince from Prince Aircraft Co. in Ohio and spent 25 min= utes learning what his recommendations would be. Lonnie is the (self proclaime= d) "head floor sweeper" at Prince aircraft Co. and has been producing many different props for the past 22 years. He was a very congenial gentleman = with a VAST amount of great information. He's personally built a KR-1 back in = the 70's and has great things to say about the plane. In his remarks I learne= d that the design of the Prince P-tip propeller is crafted with a camber to= it so that under the load of takeoff and climb the blades flex approx. 4" forward. This alters the blade shape and creates a climb prop configurati= on. As alt is reached or power is reduced the flex returns back close to the = 'at rest' shape and the prop pulls as a speed prop. In essence you had a "pow= er adjust" propeller. This doesn't come without a price. The cost is about t= wo times that of an equally sized Sterba in wood (about 3X for composite). I= guess you need to ask yourself if the performance gains are worth the cos= t. I asked specifically about his recommendations for the corvair engine at 11= 0hp and he felt that the 58X68 (in wood) or 58X70 (composite) was the correct= choice. He felt that an O-200 (100 hp) & an O-235 (118 hp) was also best suited for a 58x68 (in a prince P-tip) size. For those that are having th= eir 'vairs' massaged up to the 140hp range (ala: Mark Langford) the size woul= d be 60-72. And this size also fits the O-290 (ala Sky-PIG from Mike Mimms). Finally, He stated that if a builder/pilot wasn't receiving the performan= ce that he expected from the prop he would rebuild it to reach the best resu= lts. Or if the numbers weren't even close he would simply replace it with a ne= w prop. That's the kind of confidence in a product that I enjoy hearing abo= ut. The company doesn't have to sell the product because it sells itself. So,= having said all that...you'll have to determine what you really want to d= o with your bird and then take the plunge. For me, I'm very impressed with = the Prince products and will be looking very hard at this design. You get wha= t you pay for in this world and I'm trying to maximize the best bang for the bu= ck. If you have other questions please feel free to write and ask. And as always... Be Safe and watch yur 6. Jon ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webm= ail.netscape.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 15:26:14 -0700 (PDT) To: KR-Net From: Mike Mims Subject: Re: KR> Corvair/KR2 Prop size Message-ID: <20000523222615.4614.qmail@web1406.mail.yahoo.com> --- IMA FLYER wrote: And this size(60x72) also fits the O-290 (ala Sky-PIG from Mike Mimms).>>>> Thats pretty close, Sterba built me a 65 x 71. It might be too much prop but we can always add the 140 hp pistons! :0) ===== ........| .......-^- ....-/_____\- ...(O\__o__/O) ...[#]oxxxo[#] -----Y2K Bug--- Yes I drive one! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************