From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 16 Jun 2000 02:47:03 -0000 Issue 44 Date: Thursday, June 15, 2000 6:47 PM krnet Digest 16 Jun 2000 02:47:03 -0000 Issue 44 Topics (messages 976 through 987): Re: Short field KR??? 976 by: Eduardo Iglesias Styrofoam and glass bubbles 977 by: Stefan B. 978 by: Livingstone, Danny (DJ) 979 by: larry flesner GUSSETS 980 by: kevin old 981 by: flykr2s.execpc.com 982 by: Livingstone, Danny (DJ) dead horses 983 by: dene collett Braziliam airshow 984 by: Leonardo Palmers KR Machine Shop 985 by: Jim V. Wickert Subaru EA81 prop hub 986 by: Tracy & Carol O'Brien Fuel indicating system 987 by: ROBERT COOPER Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 00:15:59 -0300 To: "Seifert, Richard E" From: "Eduardo Iglesias" Cc: Subject: RE: KR> Short field KR??? Message-ID: <00b501bfd5ae$e04afda0$a11c33c8@cliente4> Richard In fact, what is said is that the approach speed is 1.3 times that of stall speed (ie: stall = 50 mh then approach = 65 mh.) Eduardo emiglesias@cpenet.com.ar ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:23:27 +0200 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Stefan B." Subject: Styrofoam and glass bubbles Message-ID: <39474F0F.1022EB2E@wanadoo.fr> I would like to use some glass bubbles before applying the glass/epoxy layers on a hot wired Styrofoam. As I have never done any glass layer on a foam, I would like to know whether it is possible to use the glass bubbles as an underlayer and what is the best mix ratio epoxy/bubbles. Thanks in advance and excuse me if this question has ever been discussed. Stefan Balatchev, Paris, France mailto:Stefan.Balatchev@wanadoo.fr ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 12:39:37 +0200 To: "'Stefan B.'" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Livingstone, Danny (DJ)" Subject: RE: KR> Styrofoam and glass bubbles Message-ID: <042104686D63D311B51A0000C110B8E4449AE4@SASLTD06> Stefan This is possible, as long as you don't put any on the spars where the glass comes in contact with the spars. As for the mix if you are going to lay up directly after applying the micro it will not be critical but if you are going to leave it to cure and sand it make it as dry as possible (Always the best anyway - workability (after curing), and lighter) Danny Livingstone E-Mail: livd0124@natref.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Stefan B. [SMTP:stefan.balatchev@wanadoo.fr] > Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 11:23 AM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> Styrofoam and glass bubbles > > > I would like to use some glass bubbles before applying the glass/epoxy > layers on a > hot wired Styrofoam. As I have never done any glass layer on a foam, I > would like > to know whether it is possible to use the glass bubbles as an underlayer > and what > is the best mix ratio epoxy/bubbles. > > Thanks in advance and excuse me if this question has ever been discussed. > > Stefan Balatchev, > Paris, France > mailto:Stefan.Balatchev@wanadoo.fr > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 06:41:32 -0500 To: "Livingstone, Danny (DJ)" , "'Stefan B.'" ,krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: RE: KR> Styrofoam and glass bubbles Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20000614064132.00813100@mail.midwest.net> >Stefan >This is possible, as long as you don't put any on the spars where the glass >comes in contact with the spars. >As for the mix if you are going to lay up directly after applying the micro >it will not be critical but if you are going to leave it to cure and sand it >make it as dry as possible (Always the best anyway - workability (after >curing), and lighter) >Danny Livingstone ========================================================================= There are as many opinions as there are builders about the layer of micro-slury to seal the foam. I used the regular KR foam (?) so I don't know about styrofoam but I would guess it would build the same. I sealed my foam with the slury and allowed it to dry before going back to glass it. It only takes one or two passes of the sandpaper to knock off the little ticks that tend to snag the glass when you are laying it out. I feel the bond of the glass to the foam is just as good using this process as when doing it all in one step. This also made it possible for me to build both wings as a "one man project" and not spend many hours at one time on lay-ups. I just went one step at a time. My project has been exposed to the direct sun for several hours at different times and has never developed any "bubbles"or delamination. I firmly believe that if I ever have a failure in my glass-to-foam bonding, (or any other failure in the wing) it will not be the bond of glass-to-cured slury that gets me. I think this bond is stronger than the glass-to-foam bond in either peel or shear. Be advised, I am not an engineer. Build at your own risk!!!!!!! Larry Flesner Tripacer driver, KR builder ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 12:45:28 GMT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "kevin old" Subject: GUSSETS Message-ID: <20000614124528.94181.qmail@hotmail.com> HAVE LAYED OUT FUSELAGE SIDES AND ABOUT TO CUT GUSSETS FOR BRACING,RR MANUAL SAYS TO USE SCRAP 5/8IN TIMBER FROM OFFCUTS,BUT IF YOU SCALE OUT THE GUSSETS IN THE DRAWINGS FOR THE KR2S MOST OF THE GUSSETS ARE IMPOSSIBLE TO GET FROM 5/8IN. CANNOT FIND ANY INFORMATION ON RECOMMENDED SIZES ON GUSSETS. SHOULD I MAKE THE GUSSETS FROM 5/8IN MATERIAL AS STATED OR SCALE OFF THE GUSSETS FROM DRAWING AND USE LARGER TIMBER. THANKS KEVIN PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 07:56:00 -0500 To: "kevin old" From: flykr2s@execpc.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> GUSSETS Message-Id: <200006141256.HAA05973@out3.mx.nwbl.wi.voyager.net> Kevin, I used all 5/8 stock for my gussets. When you apply the plywood skins, you will have a more than sufficient joint. On the top cross braces, make a half circle of plywood and laminate these to those joints to strengthen them. You may view my building process at the site listed below. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage > HAVE LAYED OUT FUSELAGE SIDES AND ABOUT TO CUT GUSSETS FOR BRACING,RR > MANUAL SAYS TO USE SCRAP 5/8IN TIMBER FROM OFFCUTS,BUT IF YOU SCALE OUT > THE GUSSETS IN THE DRAWINGS FOR THE KR2S MOST OF THE GUSSETS ARE IMPOSSIBLE > TO GET FROM 5/8IN. CANNOT FIND ANY INFORMATION ON RECOMMENDED SIZES ON > GUSSETS. SHOULD I MAKE THE GUSSETS FROM 5/8IN MATERIAL AS STATED OR SCALE > OFF THE GUSSETS FROM DRAWING AND USE LARGER TIMBER. > > THANKS KEVIN > PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:31:08 +0200 To: "'kevin old'" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Livingstone, Danny (DJ)" Subject: RE: KR> GUSSETS Message-ID: <042104686D63D311B51A0000C110B8E4449AE7@SASLTD06> Kevin Be sure to put the gussets on so that the grain of the gusset is at 45 degrees to the surfaces its joining and not 90 degrees to either one. (Been there, done that.......) Check some of the building sites, in some of the areas the 5/8" will work, in others you will need larger pieces due to the different angles. I am no design engineer but I do know that the leg and throat thickness do play a role in the strength of the joint. The joint need only be as strong as the area to be joined, any more is just weight. Danny Livingstone E-Mail: livd0124@natref.com > -----Original Message----- > From: kevin old [SMTP:kevinold@hotmail.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 2:45 PM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> GUSSETS > > HAVE LAYED OUT FUSELAGE SIDES AND ABOUT TO CUT GUSSETS FOR BRACING,RR > MANUAL SAYS TO USE SCRAP 5/8IN TIMBER FROM OFFCUTS,BUT IF YOU SCALE OUT > THE GUSSETS IN THE DRAWINGS FOR THE KR2S MOST OF THE GUSSETS ARE > IMPOSSIBLE > TO GET FROM 5/8IN. CANNOT FIND ANY INFORMATION ON RECOMMENDED SIZES ON > GUSSETS. SHOULD I MAKE THE GUSSETS FROM 5/8IN MATERIAL AS STATED OR SCALE > OFF THE GUSSETS FROM DRAWING AND USE LARGER TIMBER. > > THANKS KEVIN > PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 19:18:29 +0200 To: krnet From: dene collett Subject: dead horses Message-id: <000201bfd56d$8a83aca0$42a6ef9b@denec> Hi there all you foil heads. I know that I am flogging a dead horse here but please bear with me here. For the new airfoils (5048 root and 5045 tip) what is the recommended incidence at the root and tip. I realise that there hasn`t been much flight testing as far as this is concerned, but someone must have a good educated opinion. Thanks all Dene Collett South Africa denec@netactive.co.za ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 12:02:28 -0300 To: , From: "Leonardo" Cc: Subject: Braziliam airshow Message-ID: <003901bfd6da$b97488e0$a78afea9@estacao1> Hello Kr heads!! take a look at the bigest airshou we have here in Brazil, lots of experimental planes and the greatest kr what is the #1 in preference of us. see ya. Leo,Brazil,kr2s. http://www.aerosportfeira.com.br/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 17:59:59 -0400 To: unknown From: "Jim V. Wickert" Subject: Palmers KR Machine Shop Message-ID: <200006151800_MC2-A8ED-EA45@compuserve.com> Has anyone purchased the Fur Wood kits from Palmer KR Machine Shop, Dalla= s , TX, as well as any of thier other KR components. Comments are welcomed. Jim W jimw_btg@compuserve.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:54:53 -0700 To: "Jim V. Wickert" , unknown From: Tracy & Carol O'Brien Subject: Subaru EA81 prop hub Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20000615155453.0070457c@localaccess.com> Netters: I just received my Whirlwing Rotorcraft EA81 direct drive prop hub via Priority Mail today, and it is a thing of beauty! It is machined from 86L20 alloy steel and is nickel plated. It is drilled in the SAE #1 prop pattern and the kit includes the mounting bolts and excellent installation instructions. The price is $199.00, including shipping, from: Whirlwing Rotorcraft 4278 Shafor Road Hamilton, OH 45011 513-844-2857 (leave message) Regards, Tracy O'Brien ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 22:46:00 -0400 To: From: "ROBERT COOPER" Subject: Fuel indicating system Message-ID: <004501bfd73d$02232da0$1d9b1c3f@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BFD71B.7A1EF040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I received an email a few days ago stating that the current Kitplanes = had an article on building a capacitance type fuel indicating system. I = ran out and bought a Kitplane Magazine but could not find the article. = Does anyone know what issues it appeared in. I think it was a 2 part = article. Jack Cooper kr2cooper@msn.com http://www.geocities.com/kr2cooper/ Fayetteville, NC. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BFD71B.7A1EF040-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************