From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 3 Jul 2000 00:32:42 -0000 Issue 52 Date: Sunday, July 02, 2000 4:33 PM krnet Digest 3 Jul 2000 00:32:42 -0000 Issue 52 Topics (messages 1116 through 1145): Re: carb heat on posa 1116 by: AviationMech.aol.com reply to reply on carb heat 1117 by: DONAN5.aol.com 1119 by: Mike Mims 1135 by: Mike Mims 1139 by: Ross Youngblood Re: engine mount 1118 by: Greg S Martin Re: Engine Mount] 1120 by: Mark Jones Re:KR> Arlington Airshow 1121 by: AL Hawkins 1122 by: Mel 1127 by: michael beck Re: Gathering 1123 by: Tom Stokes Re: Cowl cooling 1124 by: Kenneth L Wiltrout 1125 by: cartera 1133 by: Ross Youngblood 1136 by: Kenneth L Wiltrout 1137 by: B&B Muse 1138 by: cartera 1142 by: AviationMech.aol.com cowling 1126 by: Boyers Rotary 1128 by: David McKelvey arlington 1129 by: Al Friesen weight 1130 by: Al Friesen Re: electric carb heat 1131 by: Tracy & Carol O'Brien 1145 by: Florin L Pintea Re: Arlington Airshow 1132 by: Tracy & Carol O'Brien Oshkosh 1134 by: Boyers 1141 by: Steven Eberhart KR2S Cost 1140 by: Timothy Brown 1144 by: EagleGator.aol.com Re: A&P/IA 1143 by: Tim Bellville Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 23:44:34 EDT To: DONAN5@aol.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: AviationMech@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> carb heat on posa Message-ID: <4c.79ac109.268ec322@aol.com> In a message dated 6/30/00 9:55:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, DONAN5@aol.com writes: > 12 VDC 15 amps and 130 degrees heat rise in 30 seconds... The way a posa is capable of dripping fuel, I would be real cautious placing a potential fire that close. Orma A&P with Inspection Authorization aviationmech@aol.com http://members.aol.com/aviationmech ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 23:52:59 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: DONAN5@aol.com Subject: reply to reply on carb heat Message-ID: <71.47e5c9d.268ec51b@aol.com> In a message dated 6/30/00 11:45:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, AviationMech@aol.com writes: << Subj: Re: KR> carb heat on posa Date: 6/30/00 11:45:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time From: AviationMech@aol.com To: DONAN5@aol.com, krnet@mailinglists.org In a message dated 6/30/00 9:55:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, DONAN5@aol.com writes: > 12 VDC 15 amps and 130 degrees heat rise in 30 seconds... The way a posa is capable of dripping fuel, I would be real cautious placing a potential fire that close. >> I did not know when you were flying that the posa dripped the fuel.. Thought it went into the engine>???No onder aircraft engines are so hard on the gas.... I think that this setup will work..After all why did bing already do it??????? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 23:39:47 -0700 From: Mike Mims CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> reply to reply on carb heat Message-ID: <395D9233.8535C322@home.com> DONAN5@aol.com wrote: > > I think that this setup will work..After all why did bing already do it??????? > The POSA does leak, sometimes it pukes fuel. I would NOT put an ignition source anywhere near it. Besides POSAs do not need carb heat. This could be one of those cases where we create a greater hazard trying to fix something that's not broken. -- __________________ Micheal Mims Trying to get this thing done! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://explanes.com/ Aliso Viejo Ca ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 08:41:56 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Mike Mims Subject: Re: KR> reply to reply on carb heat Message-ID: <395F62C4.E060E7FD@home.com> Mike Mims wrote: > > DONAN5@aol.com wrote: > > > > > I think that this setup will work..After all why did bing already do it??????? > > Another thing I would recommend is to take the POSA to Ebay and sell it. Then get yourself a Revflow from Revmaster. They work great, are still supported and they only cost around $220. Also they do not need carb heat. -- __________________ Micheal Mims Trying to get this thing done! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://explanes.com/ Aliso Viejo Ca ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 14:03:18 -0700 To: Mike Mims From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> reply to reply on carb heat Message-ID: <395FAE16.43A4B721@teleport.com> Can anyone comment on why we say carbs "don't need" carb heat. The physics of a carbureator center around the use of a venturi where the air accelerates. As I recall the accelleration causes a pressure drop, and with a pressure drop, you always get a drop in temperature. So... if you have moist air, and you drop below freezing, you will get ice. The only way you can have a carb that doesn't ice is if the venturi area is kept warm (surrounded by warm fuel, or somthing) so that the metal or teflon or whatever surface, stays above freezing. I'm just applying this scientific stuff as I know it. What I'm afraid of is a lot of people in California and Arizona saying, "Hey, we have never had carb ice problems with brand 'X' carbureators so therefore you don't need Carb Heat". Things are a LOT different out here where it is always warm and there is little need for carb heat at all. Out here in Chandler, the instructors will always tell me "don't bother with that carb heat" whenever I pull carb heat on downwind. This type of training is likely to get someone killed if they move to a place where there IS moisture in the air. Using the Arizona conventional wisdom, you probably could get away without carb heat on ANY aircraft. Any drop of moisture is likley to avoid your airplane and end up inside a cactus. -- Ross Mike Mims wrote: > Mike Mims wrote: > > > > DONAN5@aol.com wrote: > > > > > > > > I think that this setup will work..After all why did bing already do it??????? > > > > > Another thing I would recommend is to take the POSA to Ebay and sell it. > Then get yourself a Revflow from Revmaster. They work great, are still > supported and they only cost around $220. Also they do not need carb > heat. > > -- > __________________ > Micheal Mims > Trying to get this thing done! > http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ > http://explanes.com/ > Aliso Viejo Ca > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:31:03 -0700 To: shootingstarpg@webtv.net From: Greg S Martin Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: engine mount Message-ID: <20000630.213104.-251721.1.idrawtobuild@juno.com> On Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:14:23 -0400 (EDT) shootingstarpg@webtv.net writes: > I am a recent subscriber to krnet, and am new to the > internet.....I am looking for an engine mount for my kr2s.The engine > is > an 1834ccVW 60 hp by the Hapi co.Any one with a surplus prop for > that > configuration, or spinner, I'd be interestedin buying. I'll pay all > shipping costs. Paul Gangemi Paul I have an engine mount for a 1600VW. I'm not sure that it's a Hapi....but I'm turning my engine around and I don't think I'll be needing it. What would you offer? Greg Martin, idrawtobuild@juno.com 1783 Glenwood Court Bakersfield, California 93306 work 661-861-0570, fax 861-0517 home 661-872-8781, fax 871-1822 ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 06:24:50 -0500 To: KR-Net From: Mark Jones Subject: [Fwd: Engine Mount] Message-ID: <395DD502.DA423B12@execpc.com> --------------B26B6E9E4CE9C9FE79C651AA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage --------------B26B6E9E4CE9C9FE79C651AA Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <3941BB7F.745D7AEE@execpc.com> Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2000 22:52:31 -0500 From: Mark Jones X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD NSCPCD47 (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: KR-Net Subject: Engine Mount Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit FOR SALE: Engine Mount, made by Great Plains Aircraft Supply. This is the five point design for the VW 1835 or 2180 engine. This mount will match up to the Diehl accessory case and can be used on either the tri-gear or tail dragger KR2 or 2S and can be adapted to other experimentals. This mount has never had an engine attached to it. It is like new and has no scratches, only mounted to my firewall. Great Plains sells this mount for $225.00 and shipping charges will average $15.00 on UPS. I am selling only because I changed my engine choice to the Corvair 110HP and no longer need this mount. I will accept any reasonable offer for this engine mount. I will also pay all shipping for this mount anywhere in the continental United States via UPS. This is a good deal for anyone needing a VW mount! Do not miss out on this!!! Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage --------------B26B6E9E4CE9C9FE79C651AA-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 07:04:09 -0700 To: "krnet user group" From: "AL Hawkins" Subject: Re:KR> Arlington Airshow Message-ID: <001c01bfe365$3a31af80$4742e8d8@bc.hsia.telus.net> ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BFE32A.8D8FB400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was wondering how many people are going to the NWEAA Flyin at = Arlington Washington. Are we going to get together as In past years, Sat July 8, 10am at the = barbeque pit? Al Hawkins Port Coquitlam, B.C. Canada ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BFE32A.8D8FB400-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 07:59:16 -0700 To: "AL Hawkins" , "krnet user group" From: "Mel" Subject: Re: KR> Re:KR> Arlington Airshow Message-ID: <000c01bfe36c$ed210300$0200a8c0@poradun.com> I will be there. Mel Poradun Ferndale,WA ----- Original Message ----- From: AL Hawkins To: krnet user group Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 7:04 AM Subject: KR> Re:KR> Arlington Airshow I was wondering how many people are going to the NWEAA Flyin at Arlington Washington. Are we going to get together as In past years, Sat July 8, 10am at the barbeque pit? Al Hawkins Port Coquitlam, B.C. Canada ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 12:43:07 -0700 (PDT) To: Mel , AL Hawkins , krnet user group From: michael beck Subject: Re: KR> Re:KR> Arlington Airshow Message-ID: <20000701194307.21771.qmail@web3104.mail.yahoo.com> Me too Mike Beck Sedro Woolley,Wa --- Mel wrote: > I will be there. > > Mel Poradun > Ferndale,WA > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: AL Hawkins > To: krnet user group > Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 7:04 AM > Subject: KR> Re:KR> Arlington Airshow > > > I was wondering how many people are going to the > NWEAA Flyin at Arlington > Washington. > Are we going to get together as In past years, Sat > July 8, 10am at the > barbeque pit? > > Al Hawkins > Port Coquitlam, B.C. > Canada > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:52:42 -0500 To: kr2sflyer@yahoo.com From: Tom Stokes Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Gathering Message-ID: <20000701.100454.-197775.1.tomstokes1@juno.com> Hope you do make it Mike been a few years since I made the trip to see your plane. Missed you there last year. What ever happened to Randy Stein has he completely dropped out of KR building. Tom Stokes White Hall, AR tomstokes1@juno.com On Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:33:33 -0700 (PDT) Mike Mims writes: > Hey just wanted to let everyone know there is a good > chance that I will be able to make this years > gathering. We (wife and I) are planning on making a > little vacation out of it and visiting some of her > family in Tenn. Look forward to seeing you all again > and meeting new people. I will try to take some new > pictures of the Pig and bring them along. > > ===== > ........| > .......-^- > ....-/_____\- > ...(O\__o__/O) > ...[#]oxxxo[#] > -----Y2K Bug--- > Yes I drive one! > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > Tom Stokes White Hall, AR tomstokes1@juno.com ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 11:47:17 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Subject: Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <20000701.114718.-167251.0.klw1953@juno.com> Hope someone can help with this: I test ran 6399U (2S) today to see if all my gauges worked, it is also the first time I ran it with the cowling in place. After about 5 min of idling and some revving with my 54/50 prop, I shut it down to check on oil leaks etc. I then smelled what was obviously hot fiberglass, I was expecting to see something start melting. After laying my hand on the top cowl behind the upper engine baffle I found the fiberglass to be extremely hot. I removed the top cowl and determined that all the heat from my exhaust pipes was the problem. My pipes are not wrapped, the reason for this was because some of the netters said my exhaust would rust prematurely. What would you guys recommend????? And yes it is painted, hopefully I won't need the saw. Thanks, Kenny W. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 12:47:07 -0600 To: Kenneth L Wiltrout From: cartera CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <395E3CAB.CAECFE6F@cuug.ab.ca> Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > > Hope someone can help with this: > I test ran 6399U (2S) today to see if all my gauges worked, it is also > the first time I ran it with the cowling in place. > After about 5 min of idling and some revving with my 54/50 prop, I shut > it down to check on oil leaks etc. > I then smelled what was obviously hot fiberglass, I was expecting to see > something start melting. After laying my hand on the top cowl behind the > upper engine baffle I found the fiberglass to be extremely hot. > I removed the top cowl and determined that all the heat from my exhaust > pipes was the problem. > My pipes are not wrapped, the reason for this was because some of the > netters said my exhaust would rust prematurely. > > What would you guys recommend????? > And yes it is painted, hopefully I won't need the saw. > > Thanks, Kenny W. > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org Hello Kenny, Not knowing just what configuration of your exhaust system and baffling anything is only a guess. If you are coming straight down with your outlets, your cowling should be a least 1"+ from the exhaust. No do not wrap your pipes, if anything this raises you temp inside the wrap and it does encourage rust. Give us a photo of your setup, firewall forward. Good Luck! -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 21:28:32 -0700 To: Kenneth L Wiltrout From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <395EC4EF.4E9BC1C1@teleport.com> Ken, I too was told that wrapping the exhaust would cause them to rust out, unless you have them nickel plated. Turns out it costs about 300-500 to have this done. When I was checking around my area, a powder coat shop said he would send my exhaust out to a ceramic coating place at cost for me, if I would ship them to/from the place for him, and pay him. It was a pretty good deal, and I think he did get about $10-20 for the job. Ceramic coating is a plasma coat process where a ceramic material bonds to the metal. It typically comes with a lifetime warrenty. The stuff race cars use now. At any rate it was about $200, and this is supposed to keep my pipes at a temperature of about 70-80deg. Since the exhaust gas heat doesn't get absorbed by the pipes, you get a performance boost as well, about 1% per 10 degree C that you raise the exhaust gas temp or so. I think on the average the HP increase is about 3%. I haven't run my engine since I had the coating applied, I have a "chrome" like finish, looks great. Anyway, thats what I did. -- Ross Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > Hope someone can help with this: > I test ran 6399U (2S) today to see if all my gauges worked, it is also > the first time I ran it with the cowling in place. > After about 5 min of idling and some revving with my 54/50 prop, I shut > it down to check on oil leaks etc. > I then smelled what was obviously hot fiberglass, I was expecting to see > something start melting. After laying my hand on the top cowl behind the > upper engine baffle I found the fiberglass to be extremely hot. > I removed the top cowl and determined that all the heat from my exhaust > pipes was the problem. > My pipes are not wrapped, the reason for this was because some of the > netters said my exhaust would rust prematurely. > > What would you guys recommend????? > And yes it is painted, hopefully I won't need the saw. > > Thanks, Kenny W. > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 12:15:26 -0400 To: cartera@cuug.ab.ca From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Cc: klw1953@juno.com, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <20000702.121527.-133489.0.klw1953@juno.com> Adrian/Ross: My exhaust is 5.5" from the top cowl at the closest point. Since I don't have a scanner I'll just try to describe the problem as I see it. I think because there is little, or no cool air moving through bottom side of the engine, all of the heat from the pipes ( which are below the baffle) rises and hangs under the top cowl behind the top baffle. I was even concerned that the battery might blow in such a hot environment. The cowl directly behind the upper baffle was to hot to hold your hand against for more than a second or two. Adrian's idea about coating the exhaust seems like a possible solution, the only other thought I had was to vent the top cowl in the rear so the heat had a way out., I just never saw that done. Thanks again, Kenny W. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 11:19:07 -0500 To: Kenneth L Wiltrout From: B&B Muse CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <395F6B7A.A4A2C50E@ev1.net> --------------A428B4F88C3DF95B2337303F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > Hope someone can help with this: > I test ran 6399U (2S) today to see if all my gauges worked, it is also > the first time I ran it with the cowling in place. > After about 5 min of idling and some revving with my 54/50 prop, I shut > it down to check on oil leaks etc. > I then smelled what was obviously hot fiberglass, I was expecting to see > something start melting. After laying my hand on the top cowl behind the > upper engine baffle I found the fiberglass to be extremely hot. > I removed the top cowl and determined that all the heat from my exhaust > pipes was the problem. > My pipes are not wrapped, the reason for this was because some of the > netters said my exhaust would rust prematurely. > > What would you guys recommend????? > And yes it is painted, hopefully I won't need the saw. > > Thanks, Kenny W. > ________________________________________________________________ Kenny, The problem with the cowling getting hot at the top is normal. As long as the engine is running, the hot air is being pushed through the cowling and no great amount of heat is collected at the top of the cowling. In Tony Bingelis' book 'Firewall Forward' page 141, there is a diagram showing an automatic cowling flap/vent controlled by a VW cooling intake housing bellows. If you felt the need, you try to adapt a cowl flap to your cowling, but I don't believe you have a problem. I heard from a lot of builders about the problem of premature exhaust pipe failure due to rust from wrapping my exhaust pipes. When I was working out the bugs as you are, I wrapped my exhaust pipes and made the cowling air outlet larger which fixed a over heating and vapor lock problem I was having. I flew with the wrapped exhaust for 240 hours and decided to upgrade my exhaust system. When I removed the wrap I found no indication of damage due to rust. In fact, when I sent my new exhaust system away to have it Ceramic Coated, I just painted and re-installed my original exhaust and flew to the 1997 KR gathering. The engine ran warmer without the wrap. Now I am flying with the new ceramic coated exhaust(4 into1) which I am very happy with. Kenny, I not telling to wrap your exhaust or not but it worked for me and I would do it again. I listened to too many people that had no real experience and the only knowledge that they had was from the rumor mill. It cost me a lot of time and money and sure the new exhaust is better than the original but it was all for wrong reasons. I hope this helps. Bobby(N122B) --------------A428B4F88C3DF95B2337303F-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 11:29:24 -0600 To: Kenneth L Wiltrout From: cartera CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <395F7BF4.DF683979@cuug.ab.ca> Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > > Adrian/Ross: > My exhaust is 5.5" from the top cowl at the closest point. Since I don't > have a scanner I'll just try to describe the problem as I see it. > I think because there is little, or no cool air moving through bottom > side of the engine, all of the heat from the pipes ( which are below the > baffle) rises and hangs under the top cowl behind the top baffle. > > I was even concerned that the battery might blow in such a hot > environment. > The cowl directly behind the upper baffle was to hot to hold your hand > against for more than a second or two. > > Adrian's idea about coating the exhaust seems like a possible solution, > the only other thought I had was to vent the top cowl in the rear so the > heat had a way out., I just never saw that done. > > Thanks again, Kenny W. Kenny & KR-Builders, I don't think I would try to do too much to the exhaust system/pipes. I think to solve the problem is to get an airflow around the engine with the correct baffling. There should be an airflow at the rear of the engine which lends to better cooling all around, I had a cooling spout to the mag and another to the gascolator, also the airflow through the oil cooler. Anyway you got the best post cure of your cowling. Take a look at my website at the engine pictures and this may jog some ideas. You can do a lot of things to your exhaust stack, powder coat, ceramic but it adds very little for the cost. A flat black hot exhaust paint is just as good or you can chrome it for the looks, again I say you need to do very little to the exhaust because it will maintain it's heat, but you need to get the air circulation. Bobby has some very valid suggestions and he is the guy who should know, he learned from the best, his DAD! Good Luck! -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:53:21 EDT To: rossy@teleport.com, klw1953@juno.com From: AviationMech@aol.com CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: > I found the fiberglass to be extremely hot. As a thought about your hot cowling, There is a formula for the size of the exit for the air that is ram fed into the cowl front opening. The exit area must be larger by some degree, to allow for the expanded (heated) air to escape. If you dont have the correct size, the engine will run hotter and the cowl will be hotter. Also on the ground the cowl will be hot to the touch. In the air this will change Orma A&P with Inspection Authorization aviationmech@aol.com http://members.aol.com/aviationmech ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 14:03:35 -0500 To: From: "Boyers" Subject: cowling Message-ID: <000a01bfe38f$1085dce0$88a24ad1@ou812> ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFE365.25D9DC60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi everyone, my name is Kenny Boyer. I work for Sabreliner in Perryville = MO. I do all of their fiberglass and composites for commercial and = government planes. I have also been a fiberglass kitcar builder for ten = years. Now that I have experienced flight, I am hooked. Working on my = private, the KR2-S is defenitely in my future. I have already worked on = a fellow EAA members KR-2, in the process I made molds of the revmaster = cowling, for future use. My question is, is there any demand out there = for more of them? Fiberglass is my game, let me know. ou812@brick.net ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFE365.25D9DC60-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 15:37:54 -0500 To: KR Net From: David McKelvey Subject: Rotary Message-ID: <395E56A2.E3DDF359@gte.net> Is anyone using an Atkins Rotary in a KR? I have some ?'s for you. thanks, dave -- Dave McKelvey DAVMCK@GTE.NET Grapevine TX 817-329-0425 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 01:37:21 -0700 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: arlington Message-ID: <002301bfe337$9f9c72c0$7ecb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BFE2FC.E6E58260 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am going to Arlington. Have my 2S about 85% complete for a finish date = in Oct? Al Friesen ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BFE2FC.E6E58260-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 02:26:12 -0700 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: weight Message-ID: <006501bfe33e$71452e60$7ecb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_0062_01BFE303.B9BC5DC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can any of you KR-2S builders tell me what the empty weight of your = project is? I estimate mine to go about 600 to 650 with a Revmaster = 2100D and a Grove Aircraft landing gear in tail dragger configuration. = Will a 55x45 prop be good on this bird? Al Friesen, Creston,BC, Canada = ------=_NextPart_000_0062_01BFE303.B9BC5DC0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 17:11:36 -0700 To: DONAN5@aol.com,krnet@mailinglists.org From: Tracy & Carol O'Brien Subject: Re: KR> electric carb heat Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20000701171136.0071555c@localaccess.com> >The company that is doing the testing for me has said that they think they >have it about worked out... > >12 VDC 15 amps and 130 degrees heat rise in 30 seconds... >I think this should heat my posa fine... >has anybody else tried to electrically heat the carb? As I recall my 1969 Austin America had a phenolic block on the engine side of the carb that had a ni-chrome wire coil in it. Sure sounds like an an electric carb heater to me! Check out your local import junk yard. Tracy O'Brien PS: if any of you happen upon a derelict Austin America, I'd sure like to have the coolant overflow tank out of it for my Subaru installation! PPS: My 1641 with prop hub, carb, 009, and 4 into one exhaust kit is still available for $1500.00, and I'll cover the shipping. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 18:33:02 -0600 To: "KR-Net" From: "Florin L Pintea" Subject: RE: KR> electric carb heat Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Florin L Pintea [mailto:florinpi@home.com] Sent: July 2, 2000 9:20 AM To: Tracy & Carol O'Brien Subject: RE: KR> electric carb heat I see that a lot of builders are concerned with carb heat nowadays. I do not have a lot of experience with this in aircraft use, however considering the things I've learned so far I can't see anyone without it. If it happens on the ground, it will happen in the air too. Here's something I would definitely try if I weren't building the fuel injected 'Vair. I used to own a 1983 Chevy S10 pickup truck. It was powered by the good old 2.8L V6 and had a carburetor. This carb was extremely notorious by design for icing up in bad weather. And since I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, we have an abundance of it in the fall, winter and spring. This carb would ice up to the point that the truck would bog down so badly, it wouldn't want to move, the engine would stall and you couldn't accelerate it more than 100 RPM even at WOT. What GM did to sort of compensate for this was a "grid" like heater mounted under the carb (electrically powered). The grid received power the instant the ignition switch was turned on. Then, a timer would be activated (I believe it counted down from approx.15 minutes) I guess it came on at the right time when the icing conditions were greatest (partially open throttle and consequently high vacuum). The trouble with this was that after the fifteen minutes have expired the timer would disengage the heater relay and now you were running the engine without carb heat. Numerous times while caught in a snowstorm the carb would ice up and I was in trouble. What I had to do is just pull over, shut down the ignition which basically re-set the timer on the heater by re-starting the engine, it would sputter for a couple minutes while the ice would melt and I'd be fine again for at least 1/2 hour. Later, to solve GM's problem I installed a toggle switch on the dash to manually power the heater relay whenever I felt I had carb ice, which worked great. I can't see why this great little unit wouldn't work with an aviation type carb or any other carb for that matter provided it is installed correctly. Also, since it's used in auto applications I'm sure it can't cost that much money and it would be worth getting one just to experiment with. I hope this helps someone, If not, I've just used up a lot of bandwidth. Oh and here's an economical alternative to those expensive NAV instruments we all want for IFR flying: Instrument Flying for Animal Lovers As many pilots may be aware, instrument flying takes many long hours to learn and stay current. There is another method that some pilots may prefer. For reasons that will become apparent, it is recommended for those that have large, easily cleaned cabins. It is known as the " Cat and Duck Method " or C & D method. No reports have been received by those who have tried it, and none are really expected. Basic rules for the C & D method are fairly well known and quite simple. Here's how it's done. A. Place a live cat on the cockpit floor; because a cat always remains upright it can be used in lieu of a needle and ball. Merely watch to see which way the cat leans to determine which wing is low. B. The duck is used for the instrument approach and landing. Because of the fact that any sensible duck will refuse to fly in IFR weather, it is only necessary to throw the duck out of the window and follow it to the ground. There are some limitations to the Cat and Duck Method, but by adhering to the following checklist a degree of success will be achieved although it will most likely startle your passengers. Checklist: 1. Get a wide awake cat. Most cats don't want to stand up at all. It may be necessary to have a large dog in the cockpit to keep the cat alert. 2. Make sure the cat is clean. Dirty cats spend all their time washing. Trying to follow a washing cat usually results in a tight snap roll followed by an inverted spin. 3. Use old cats only. Young cats have nine lives, but old used-up cats with only one life left have as much to lose as you do, and will be much more dependable. 4. Beware of cowardly ducks. If the duck finds that you are using the cat to stay upright, it will refuse to leave without the cat. Ducks are no better in IFR conditions than you are. 5. Be sure the duck has good eyesight. Nearsighted ducks sometimes fail to realize they are on the gauges and go flogging off into the nearest hill. Very nearsighted ducks may not realize they have been thrown out and will descend to the ground in a sitting position. This is a difficult maneuver to follow in an airplane. 6. Use land loving ducks. It's very discouraging to break out of the clouds and find yourself on final for a rice paddy, particularly if there are duck hunters around. Duck hunters suffer from temporary insanity while sitting in their blinds during freezing weather and will shoot at anything that flies. 7. Choose your ducks carefully. Ducks are sometimes confused with geese, as several of the water birds look alike. While geese are very competent instrument fliers, they seldom want to go in the same direction as you and you can be sure you will have been given the goose. From "The Windsock" Newsletter of Chapter 305 EAA Canada. Cheers, Florin Calgary, Alberta, Canada -----Original Message----- From: Tracy & Carol O'Brien [mailto:tracy@localaccess.com] Sent: July 1, 2000 6:12 PM To: DONAN5@aol.com; krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> electric carb heat >The company that is doing the testing for me has said that they think they >have it about worked out... > >12 VDC 15 amps and 130 degrees heat rise in 30 seconds... >I think this should heat my posa fine... >has anybody else tried to electrically heat the carb? As I recall my 1969 Austin America had a phenolic block on the engine side of the carb that had a ni-chrome wire coil in it. Sure sounds like an an electric carb heater to me! Check out your local import junk yard. Tracy O'Brien PS: if any of you happen upon a derelict Austin America, I'd sure like to have the coolant overflow tank out of it for my Subaru installation! PPS: My 1641 with prop hub, carb, 009, and 4 into one exhaust kit is still available for $1500.00, and I'll cover the shipping. --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 17:22:38 -0700 To: "Mel" ,"AL Hawkins" , "krnet user group" From: Tracy & Carol O'Brien Subject: Re: KR> Arlington Airshow Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20000701172238.00713428@localaccess.com> I'll be there on saturday. Charley Gray will have my C-90 disc brake demo setup at the Northwest Aero (Sea Rey) booth. Tracy O'Brien http://www.tracyobrien.com >I was wondering how many people are going to the NWEAA Flyin at Arlington >Washington. >Are we going to get together as In past years, Sat July 8, 10am at the >barbeque pit? > >Al Hawkins >Port Coquitlam, B.C. >Canada > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:33:14 -0500 To: From: "Boyers" Subject: Oshkosh Message-ID: <000a01bfe42a$14a85a00$99a24ad1@ou812> ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFE400.2A058140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If I go to Oshkosh this year what can I expect in the area of KR's? Does = Oshkosh have a area where people sell parts and partial kits,fleemarket = style? Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BFE400.2A058140-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 18:22:50 -0500 (CDT) To: Boyers From: Steven Eberhart cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Oshkosh Message-ID: On Sun, 2 Jul 2000, Boyers wrote: > If I go to Oshkosh this year what can I expect in the area of KR's? Does Oshkosh have a area where people sell parts and partial kits,fleemarket style? Thanks > Troy Petteway will have his KR-2 with the new airfoil there and Ashok is giving a Forum on the new airfoil. Steve Eberhart mailto:newtech@newtech.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 14:44:50 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Timothy Brown Subject: KR2S Cost Message-ID: <20000702214450.27652.qmail@web617.mail.yahoo.com> Can anyone/everyone give me some idea of the cost to build a KR2S from beginning to flying VFR? Or even a KR2 cost would help. I know that there will be a wide range but I am just trying to get some rough average in order to decide whether or not to start. Thanks to everyone. Tim (hopefully starting a KR2S this year) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 20:20:36 EDT To: timwbrown@yahoo.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Message-ID: Check out my web site at http://members.aol.com/eaglegator, I've got an Excel spreadsheet there that you can download. It has all of my actual and planned expenses associated with building my KR-2S. Cheers, Rick Junkin, St. Charles MO EagleGator@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 20:09:08 -0400 To: "George Allen" , From: "Tim Bellville" Subject: Re: KR> A&P/IA Message-ID: <004001bfe482$eab0cd00$f8d12581@default> George, did you talk to Brian at suburban aviation> I believe he could do it for you. BTW I too live in Toledo and got my ticket at "wagon wheel". Tim ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Allen" To: Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 8:25 PM Subject: KR> A&P/IA Hi group, Does anyone know someone in the Toledo, Ohio area who could inspect a homebuilt for me? Right now I'm looking at a VP2 that located at Toledo Suburban (5G9). Or how about someone in the Watertown, NY area? There's a Tweenie Two that might do. I don't know the exact location yet. I know ,I know, it's a step or two down Darwin's ladder but I need something to fly right NOW! I just received my PP cert. in March and I need wings! Then I can start building a real plane. Thanks guys and gals, George Allen Harrisburg, PA ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************