From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 5 Jul 2000 04:14:42 -0000 Issue 53 Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 8:15 PM krnet Digest 5 Jul 2000 04:14:42 -0000 Issue 53 Topics (messages 1146 through 1164): Re: Cowl cooling 1146 by: Kenneth L Wiltrout 1159 by: B&B Muse Re: KR2S Cost 1147 by: John 1148 by: Ross Youngblood 1154 by: Floyd Dickinson 1156 by: Lon V Boothby 1160 by: w.g. kirkland 1161 by: ROBERT COOPER engine 1149 by: shootingstarpg.webtv.net 1163 by: GARYKR2.cs.com 1164 by: Lon V Boothby STOL wing tips 1150 by: BTabbert.maximcrane.com 1151 by: Gognij.aol.com Hot Cowl 1152 by: RONALD.FREIBERGER Building a KR-1, 2, or a 2S 1153 by: Robert Stone Zenith carb question 1155 by: Oscar Zuniga 1157 by: cartera hi 1158 by: Pietro Bruni cowls 1162 by: Boyers Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 20:41:14 -0400 To: AviationMech@aol.com From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <20000702.204115.-316973.0.klw1953@juno.com> I never knew the formula for the size of the exit area, but I did make it about 1.5 to 2 times as large as the intake. I did find someone on the net that ceramic coats exhaust sys., I sent him an e mail on this subject. I will also put blow tubes to the gascolater and battery. What size tubes have you guys installed? Thanks again for all replys!! Kenny On Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:53:21 EDT AviationMech@aol.com writes: > > > I found the fiberglass to be extremely hot. > As a thought about your hot cowling, There is a formula for the size > of the > exit for the air that is ram fed into the cowl front opening. The > exit area > must be larger by some degree, to allow for the expanded (heated) > air to > escape. If you dont have the correct size, the engine will run > hotter and > the cowl will be hotter. Also on the ground the cowl will be hot to > the > touch. In the air this will change > > Orma > A&P with Inspection Authorization > aviationmech@aol.com > http://members.aol.com/aviationmech > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 21:52:24 -0500 To: AviationMech@aol.com From: B&B Muse CC: rossy@teleport.com, klw1953@juno.com, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Re: Cowl cooling Message-ID: <39615168.400FC158@ev1.net> --------------A97DC714EA6073DC404FA0FE Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit AviationMech@aol.com wrote: > > I found the fiberglass to be extremely hot. > As a thought about your hot cowling, There is a formula for the size of the > exit for the air that is ram fed into the cowl front opening. The exit area > must be larger by some degree, to allow for the expanded (heated) air to > escape. If you dont have the correct size, the engine will run hotter and > the cowl will be hotter. Also on the ground the cowl will be hot to the > touch. In the air this will change > > Orma This is true. If you drive your car for about thirty minutes, stop the engine, wait about five minutes and feel your car hood, you might be surprised just how hot the hood gets... it's natural. It happens. That is why most hoods have a little fiberglass insulation under it to protect the paint and also to make the engine sound quieter.. Bobby --------------A97DC714EA6073DC404FA0FE-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 20:23:22 -0600 To: Timothy Brown , Group KR NET From: John Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Message-Id: <00070220260602.00893@Y2krsoob> You're right it varies wildly. I think I've got around 8-10K in mine I'm not sure, afraid to total up all them receipts! Some guys have as much as 15K, If you build all the fiberglass parts wing-skins, cowling, frontdeck/gastank, turtledeck, canopy frame and such like it'll be cheaper, but it'll take longer. I guess good ballpark number is around 10-12K On Sun, 02 Jul 2000, Timothy Brown wrote: > Can anyone/everyone give me some idea of the cost to > build a KR2S from beginning to flying VFR? Or even a > KR2 cost would help. I know that there will be a wide > range but I am just trying to get some rough average > in order to decide whether or not to start. > > Thanks to everyone. > > Tim (hopefully starting a KR2S this year) > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. > http://invites.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org -- John Los Alamos NM jeb@thuntek.net http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2000 19:42:11 -0700 To: Timothy Brown From: Ross Youngblood CC: Group KR NET Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Message-ID: <395FFD83.7A0820BC@teleport.com> Tim, I built mine about $100 at a time, with the largest expendatures as follows: Most prices are vague recollection over the last several years, I have reciepts, but don't want to add them up. Wood kit $400 (current price 600-800) 3/32" Plywood (about 200-$300) Gear Castings $300 (Part of another uncompleted KR kit I bought) Engine kit (Great Planes $1800) Firewall Fowarard ($1700) Includes some nifty cool stuff -- Comp-u-Fire Ignition $260 -- Ellison Throttle body carb $700 -- Engine Mount $170 -- Intake & Exhaust $300 approx -- Ceramic coating of exhaust $150-175 -- Alternator,Starter control cables etc Fiberglass cloth... $7.00 yard or so... $50/100 at a time Urethane foam $12 4x8 sheet or so $24/48 at a time Fiberglass resin $50-80 gal kit $80 at a time Rudder pedal kit from Rand $150 Control Stick kit from Rand $100+ Canopy Plexiglas from Rand $300+ Cool Terra radio (light & small) with intercom $1500 Cool Terra Transponder (light @ small) $1200 Matco Disk brake kit $400+ AKA Emergency locator transmitter about $200 or so Instruments from Chief Aircraft/ACS Altimeter - $120 Compass - $70 Airspeed - $80 Virt Speed -$100 Elect Turn&Bank $100+ Nice capacitive fuel senders 2EA @$70.00 (each wing) Assorted Nuts Bolts etc (buy at 25c to 2.00 ea) $300.00 - This is spread out over a long period. (Includes the turnbuckle order which I recall was about $120-150) I probably could have bought a RV kit for what I have into my KR, but they payment plan for my KR was much easier to stomach. Kind of like building a Cadallac from pieces. The radios and engine expenses were perhaps a bit much, but other than that I think my expenses are reasonable. You can save big $$$ by purchasing someone's partially completed project. Think hard if you are considering the KR solely on cost basis. By the time you are finished, you will have more money than you expected on the KR. The NICE thing about the KR is that you can practicly finish the airframe for about $5K and THEN worry about radios and engine. If I had it to do over again... well I can any time, I would have bought the wing skins for $1300 or so, I don't have the $$$ today, but the wings I have seen look great, and it takes a LOT of elbow grease to get anything close to that type of finish with the hand layup technique. If you value your time, it is cheaper to buy the wing skins, if you don't mind sitting in resin coated gear for hours on end doing the layups, then do the wings, it is an experience.... I would equate it to the story my Uncle told me of baking his own capicators in the oven in the 50's to build a Tesla coil. You can buy a capicator for about 20c today, but you would have a great stories to tell if you baked your own. (I don't know how to bake a capacitor in an oven, so don't ask). My recommendation would be to START, buy the plans, and buy some partical board, hook up with a local EAA chapter. If you drink beer, buy some beer, setup the garage and start. If you are like me, you won't ever have to finish, it will just be this project thingy that travels with you for about 10 years. I spend too much time playing on the computer when I should be out in the shop melting aileron counterweights.... -- Ross Timothy Brown wrote: > Can anyone/everyone give me some idea of the cost to > build a KR2S from beginning to flying VFR? Or even a > KR2 cost would help. I know that there will be a wide > range but I am just trying to get some rough average > in order to decide whether or not to start. > > Thanks to everyone. > > Tim (hopefully starting a KR2S this year) > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. > http://invites.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 12:45:37 -0400 To: jeb@thuntek.net From: Floyd Dickinson CC: Timothy Brown , Group KR NET Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Message-Id: <200007031645.MAA20020@mail2.capital.net> I think it's the cost/performance factor that draws so much attention to the KR's. More bang for the buck! Compare your figures to any other homebuilt cost figures and see what you come up with - there's no comparison. Even ultralight configurations are upwards of 16k to 18k for anything worth much - (too bad plans built ultralights are not more popular). It's all about money - yours vs. theirs! Not only that, anytime you have the potential to formulate a reliable engine for say 1k, you are big bucks ahead of the game. Douglas Fir from a lumber yard is still possible, although i certainly would not suggest people do that, unless they thoroughly understand aircraft quality lumber and what they are getting into. The safety factor certainly has to be first and formost in every aspect of any homebuilt aircraft, but wow, the achievement potential is unlimited for those with a little guidance and imagination. Floyd John wrote: > You're right it varies wildly. I think I've got around 8-10K in mine > I'm not sure, afraid to total up all them receipts! > Some guys have as much as 15K, If you build all the fiberglass parts > wing-skins, cowling, frontdeck/gastank, turtledeck, canopy frame and > such like it'll be cheaper, but it'll take longer. > I guess good ballpark number is around 10-12K > > On Sun, 02 Jul 2000, Timothy Brown wrote: > > Can anyone/everyone give me some idea of the cost to > > build a KR2S from beginning to flying VFR? Or even a > > KR2 cost would help. I know that there will be a wide > > range but I am just trying to get some rough average > > in order to decide whether or not to start. > > > > Thanks to everyone. > > > > Tim (hopefully starting a KR2S this year) > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 10:02:20 -0700 To: rossy@teleport.com From: Lon V Boothby Cc: timwbrown@yahoo.com, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Message-ID: <20000703.100220.-159219.0.LBoothby@juno.com> Has anyone checked the prices recently for wing skins and the best supplier? Thanks, Lon ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 23:51:07 -0400 To: , "Timothy Brown" , "Group KR NET" From: "w.g. kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Message-ID: <002301bfe56b$16b22be0$aa905bd1@kirkland> Tim I agree with the 10 to 15 k figures. What is it worth? Depends on whether you ask me or my wife! W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "John" To: "Timothy Brown" ; "Group KR NET" Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 10:23 PM Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost > You're right it varies wildly. I think I've got around 8-10K in mine > I'm not sure, afraid to total up all them receipts! > Some guys have as much as 15K, If you build all the fiberglass parts > wing-skins, cowling, frontdeck/gastank, turtledeck, canopy frame and > such like it'll be cheaper, but it'll take longer. > I guess good ballpark number is around 10-12K > > On Sun, 02 Jul 2000, Timothy Brown wrote: > > Can anyone/everyone give me some idea of the cost to > > build a KR2S from beginning to flying VFR? Or even a > > KR2 cost would help. I know that there will be a wide > > range but I am just trying to get some rough average > > in order to decide whether or not to start. > > > > Thanks to everyone. > > > > Tim (hopefully starting a KR2S this year) > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. > > http://invites.yahoo.com/ > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > -- > John > Los Alamos NM > jeb@thuntek.net > http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 23:26:28 -0400 To: "Ross Youngblood" , "Timothy Brown" From: "ROBERT COOPER" Cc: "Group KR NET" Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Message-ID: <000301bfe56e$a4afa140$105e163f@pavilion> ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross Youngblood To: Timothy Brown Cc: Group KR NET Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 10:42 PM Subject: Re: KR> KR2S Cost Ross wrote " You can save big $$$ by purchasing someone's partially completed project". I bought someone else's partialy completed project and think I did very well for what I got. I bought it sight unseen off ebay. My bid as $910 plus I paid $300 to have it delivered. Yes there are some things that I have had to change around and repair and some other things I would have done differently if I was starting from scrat, but I think I can get into the air much quicker and less costly with my purchase. You can see my project and what I received with it at my website (Link in signature block). I think that with what I got for my money that if I burned the boat and started over I would still be money ahead. Jack Cooper kr2cooper@msn.com http://www.geocities.com/kr2cooper/ Fayetteville, NC. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 06:38:10 -0400 (EDT) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: shootingstarpg@webtv.net Subject: engine Message-ID: <3105-39606D12-12981@storefull-162.iap.bryant.webtv.net> I would like to know if there are any KR2s,s out there tooling around in a 1834 V/W ., and what kind of performance you're getting. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 17:41:14 EDT To: shootingstarpg@webtv.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> engine Message-ID: <69.72b1bfb.2693b3fa@cs.com> In a message dated 7/3/00 6:38:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, shootingstarpg@webtv.net writes: << I would like to know if there are any KR2s,s out there tooling around in a 1834 V/W ., and what kind of performance you're getting. >> Jerry Wells is running one. Cruise- 135mph, climb-500 to 700fpm.(2ft extra wing span) I did the test flights on it last summer, has the same performance as my "2" with a 2180 in it. I have lights and antennas sticking out, which makes for drag. Gary Hinkle(A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 21:13:54 -0700 To: GARYKR2@cs.com From: Lon V Boothby Cc: shootingstarpg@webtv.net, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> engine Message-ID: <20000704.211406.-3758459.1.LBoothby@juno.com> Whats the purpose for the extra 2 feet of wing? Thanks, Lon LBoothby@juno.com ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 08:50:28 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: BTabbert@maximcrane.com Subject: STOL wing tips Message-ID: Hey guys, I have a set of STOL wing tips for a Cessna 172. I slipped them over my not yet finished KR-2S wing tips and found that with cutting the STOL down slightly they can be glassed in quit nicely. Has any body done this or can comment on it?? Bill Tabbert ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 09:07:53 EDT To: BTabbert@maximcrane.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Gognij@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> STOL wing tips Message-ID: <70.c2e0c1.2691ea29@aol.com> Hello Bill With your droop tips. How much wing tip clearance will you have for cross wind landings? Jim Gogniat ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 09:31:48 -0400 To: "KRNET" From: "RONALD.FREIBERGER" Subject: Hot Cowl Message-ID: On the aircraft reported "So hot you could only touch it for a few seconds".... Thats about 140 degrees F, and not much concern. 120 degrees feels cery warm, 140 is threshold of pain, and 150 is painful, can't keep your hand on it. On my first airplane, "RON'S ONE" I had an area where the paint blistered slightly due to exhaust heat. I glued on abiut three layers of aluminum foil, using dabs of silicone adhesive. This took care of the problem nicely. This aircraft was first flown in 1972, and had a few years of operation before I sold it. The cowl was polyester / fiberglass, and served me well. Two other aircraft I built or restored, a Cassutt and Jodel D11 both had polyester/FBG cowls with no problem. If I did it again, I'd use epoxy, but I've been well served with polyester. "Ron's One" was recently reported to still be flying... Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 11:09:30 -0500 To: "KRNet" From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Building a KR-1, 2, or a 2S Message-ID: <002801bfe509$127cd320$58e918d0@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BFE4DF.28BBCEE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is for Timothy Brown. I would have sent you a message direct if I = had your E-Mail address. The advice you got from Ross Youngblood is = right on the money. If you keep track of what you spend building any = of the KR aircraft available you will be suppressed at the total. His = best advice was, Look for a project that is a long way along and is for = sale. You will save a lot of time and money this way ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BFE4DF.28BBCEE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 09:54:21 PDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: Zenith carb question Message-ID: <20000703165421.388.qmail@hotmail.com> Hello, netters- Question for anybody familiar with the Zenith carb with mixture control. Any idea how much adjustability is needed on the mixture screw under most normal range of conditions? That is, from normal "full rich" at sea level to "lean at cruise" up to, say, 8,000 ft.- does it require 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, 1 turn, or more? I'm trying to work out a mixture control knob for it, but anything requiring more than 1/2 turn is going to require a twist knob or rack-and-pinion setup or something. Also, FWIW, my 2 cents on the carb heat issue is, I'd rather have it and not need it than the other way around. I grew up flying in south Texas where we got 2 weeks of "winter" and the other 50 were "summer", but cruising in a non-turbo 182 one day and suddenly sputtering/losing power, I went through instant panic, ran through the mental checklist of set up best glide, check fuel selector, mags to either L or R, radios off, etc. etc.- I finally yanked carb heat and she smoothed right out. Typical summer afternoon, no fog, no cloud penetration, and probably 70 deg. at my cruise altitude with temps over 100 on the ground. And my instructor _always_ kicked me if I didn't pull carb heat on downwind before power reduction for landing, no matter what I was flying if it had a carb, no matter what time of year. They won't take points off on a checkride if you do it, but they might if you don't. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 12:41:37 -0600 To: Oscar Zuniga From: cartera CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Zenith carb question Message-ID: <3960DE61.2729780F@cuug.ab.ca> Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > Hello, netters- > > Question for anybody familiar with the Zenith carb with mixture control. > Any idea how much adjustability is needed on the mixture screw under most > normal range of conditions? That is, from normal "full rich" at sea level > to "lean at cruise" up to, say, 8,000 ft.- does it require 1/2 turn, 3/4 > turn, 1 turn, or more? I'm trying to work out a mixture control knob for > it, but anything requiring more than 1/2 turn is going to require a twist > knob or rack-and-pinion setup or something. > > Also, FWIW, my 2 cents on the carb heat issue is, I'd rather have it and not > need it than the other way around. I grew up flying in south Texas where we > got 2 weeks of "winter" and the other 50 were "summer", but cruising in a > non-turbo 182 one day and suddenly sputtering/losing power, I went through > instant panic, ran through the mental checklist of set up best glide, check > fuel selector, mags to either L or R, radios off, etc. etc.- I finally > yanked carb heat and she smoothed right out. Typical summer afternoon, no > fog, no cloud penetration, and probably 70 deg. at my cruise altitude with > temps over 100 on the ground. And my instructor _always_ kicked me if I > didn't pull carb heat on downwind before power reduction for landing, no > matter what I was flying if it had a carb, no matter what time of year. > They won't take points off on a checkride if you do it, but they might if > you don't. > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, Oregon > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org Hi Gang, Perfect example Oscar, no matter how nice it is out there is always that possibility for ice. When you purring right along and the rpm drops slightly I usually added a bit of carb heat, never touched the trottle and the rpm came up again. I can understand the the question why you need it if your picking up air from inside the cowling. In Canada it is a regulatory requirement to have carb heat, period! Happy Flying! -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 23:12:28 +0200 To: From: "Pietro Bruni" Subject: hi Message-ID: <002901bfe533$6509d820$65646464@pietro> ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BFE544.280C6120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi to everybody i'm new to the list. I have subscribed to the list cause i am just thinkink to start = construction of Kr2s. Every suggetions are welcome.... I think to use GreatPlains WV 2100 cc, what do you think about? How many hours need to built it from plans? How much have you spend or think to spend to build it? Thank to everybody for help. Pietro Bruni Italy EAA member No 583377 CAP (italian Homebuilder Association) member No 1269 e-mail pietrotb@tin.it ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BFE544.280C6120-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 04:20:11 -0500 To: From: "Boyers" Subject: cowls Message-ID: <002b01bfe599$0f8b2f00$aa2be6cf@ou812> ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01BFE56F.24E85640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I thought I might lay up a couple sets of cowls and take to the = gathering? I can do them two ways,ounce and a half mat or cloth. The one = I molded was in cloth, the only problem with cloth is it tends to show = its weave through the gel-coat after time in the sun or heat from = engine,not bad,most people would'nt even notice. Poly resin or 50A = epoxy. Of coarse poly and mat would be the cheapest,$250.00. Epoxy and = cloth,$50.00 more,I don't see a problem with poly and mat,it's a iso = poly so it's about the best poly out there.I built several car = bodys[cobra for dad]out of it and never had any problem.We could also do = some partial trading if you have other parts you'd be willing to let me = mold?? Such as wing tips,decks etc.I really was'nt looking to start = another outlet to make money,I just wanted to do my own glass work,I've = built too many cars for people,and the kitcar body they brought me would = look like its made out of paper mesha.So I'm not trying to make a = killing after all I'll need help or advice on mine.If your in the area = and would like to lay-up your own your more than welcome. ......I need = to get all the info I can on the Corviar set-up that to me sounds like = the way to go!! Of coarse I,ll have to modify my cowling and make = another mold, never ending isn't it. Larry Flesner invited me to come = see his KR,he mention a book or manual someone was selling?? Thanks = again Larry,fantastic KR, I talked the wifes ear off all the way = home.....Take care everyone and happy 4th of July Ken Boyer = ou812@brick.net 573-543-5538 St.Mary MO. I better get back to bed! ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01BFE56F.24E85640-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************