From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 30 Aug 2000 19:58:47 -0000 Issue 82 Date: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 12:00 PM krnet Digest 30 Aug 2000 19:58:47 -0000 Issue 82 Topics (messages 1836 through 1860): Re: conical washers 1836 by: Mark Langford 1841 by: Donald Reid 1846 by: John and Janet Martindale 1847 by: Frank Ross Re: fuel 1837 by: AviationMech.aol.com 1839 by: Mark Langford 1842 by: AviationMech.aol.com 1844 by: cartera 1848 by: Stefan B. Cone Washers 1838 by: Al Friesen Re: AV vs MO gas 1840 by: Horn2004.aol.com Re: KR Fly-ins 1843 by: Todd Servaes 1845 by: Wolf Packs, Inc Honda alternator for KR1 1849 by: Oscar Zuniga Re: log books 1850 by: Ross Youngblood Re: Shop Vac report 1851 by: Ross Youngblood Re: Hose 1852 by: Ross Youngblood 1856 by: Tim Bellville KR Weight loss... 1853 by: Ross Youngblood IFR in KR? ... Trim 1854 by: Ross Youngblood 1857 by: KR2616TJ.aol.com 1860 by: Flykr2.aol.com Re: KR Weight loss...a bit off topic! 1855 by: Peter Nauta dynamo for VW 1858 by: Oscar Zuniga Re: KR List 1859 by: EagleGator.aol.com Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 15:22:53 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> conical washers Message-ID: <000d01c0112d$bf6c24f0$58e6a58c@tbe.com> ROBERT COOPER wrote: On helicopters I used to fly conical washers were always used under the bolt head so that if the rod end bearing ever failed the washer would still maintain the connection. I've looked through Wicks and AS&S and have not located any conical washers except washers for the countersunk screws. Can anyone help? --------------- I think the usual cure is to use a large diameter washer (AN961?) that is so large there's no way the whole rod end can come completely loose. At least that's what I'm doing, and I think that's what Bengelis recommends. I guess what I did was use regular washers as spacers between the joint and large washer, but the conical washer sounds even better, if we could find 'em... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 19:48:22 -0400 To: From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> conical washers Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000828194505.00960100@pop.erols.com> --=====================_745533==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 03:33 PM 8/28/00 -0700, ROBERT COOPER wrote: >I'm building the horizontal stabilizer and elevator. I will be using Dr. >Dean type hinges. On helicopters I used to fly conical washers were always >used under the bolt head so that if the rod end bearing ever failed the >washer would still maintain the connection. I have never seen any conical washers in the standard catalogs. I have used the large diameter AN970 (the so-called wood) washers. The best fit that I have found is to use one size smaller, and then drilled out to the correct size. For example, all most all of my rod bearing have a 1/4" bore. I used the AN970-3 washers and drilled them to 1/4". The washer size is perfect for the rod bearing end. Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm USUA Club 250 at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html --=====================_745533==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 16:59:56 +1000 To: "To post messages to the new KRNet" From: "John and Janet Martindale" Subject: Conical washers Message-ID: <00a001c01188$1630df60$4ec429cb@f6q6r4> ------=_NextPart_000_0094_01C011DA.8EF77A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi folks The main advantage of the conical washers is that they allow movement of = the rod end away from centre, otherwise ya gotta pack out a wood washer = as Mark describes. They're scarcer than hens teeth in Australia. John ------=_NextPart_000_0094_01C011DA.8EF77A60-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 23:57:48 -0700 (PDT) To: John and Janet Martindale , To post messages to the new KRNet From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> Conical washers Message-ID: <20000829065748.22412.qmail@web4704.mail.yahoo.com> Hey, Hen's teeth are scarce everywhere... --- John and Janet Martindale wrote: > Hi folks > > The main advantage of the conical washers is that > they allow movement of the rod end away from centre, > otherwise ya gotta pack out a wood washer as Mark > describes. They're scarcer than hens teeth in > Australia. > > John > ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 16:41:31 EDT To: bstarrs@cybertrails.com, dave172c@yahoo.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: AviationMech@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> fuel Message-ID: <84.a185368.26dc287b@aol.com> In a message dated 8/28/00 12:18:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bstarrs@cybertrails.com writes: > the auto gas sold at airports > comes out of the same tanks as that sold at gas stations. Some times auto fuel retailers don't care for the tanks and equipment as they should. Airport operators know that a plane can't pull to the curb when the engine quits. The distributers of all fuels probably have high standards. Orma A&P /IA KR builder/driver N110LR aviationmech@aol.com http://members.aol.com/aviationmech ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 16:39:45 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> fuel Message-ID: <001b01c01138$7c3c47e0$a5f780ce@300emachine> > Airport operators know that a plane can't pull to the curb when the > engine quits. The distributers of all fuels probably have high standards. I'm sure this is true, but at one local airport, mogas sits in an above ground skid tank, which almost certainly leads to more condensation in the tank than the large underground one that the 100LL is kept in. And there's very turn over, so it's probably not the freshest fuel around either. The tank's not marked very well, and they don't advertise it at all, since they don't make much profit on it. I'm sure there are many variables, but there are two for you. One thing I keep hearing about running 100LL in VWs is that it plates out on the valves and forces frequent valve jobs to clean them up. That may or may not be so (maybe this will spark a little conversation on the subject). For all I know they may be running too rich and confusing carbon for lead, so I can't say for sure, but I've sure heard that an awful lot. I'm going to run car gas almost exclusively in mine... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 20:34:47 EDT To: langford@hiwaay.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: AviationMech@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> fuel Message-ID: In a message dated 8/28/00 5:46:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, langford@hiwaay.net writes: > not the freshest fuel This is why pilots are taught to sump their tanks and look at the fuel before flight. Each aviation grade is a different color to help detect contamination. Even then as you say local conditions can influence the quality of what you buy. One extra for the high price of aviation fuel, when you spill it or it leaks, it leaves a removable stain and does not leave an odor behind or on you hands. Orma A&P /IA KR builder/driver N110LR aviationmech@aol.com http://members.aol.com/aviationmech ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 22:01:21 -0600 To: BillStarrs From: cartera CC: Dave Vieira , KRnet Subject: Re: KR> fuel Message-ID: <39AB3591.78CBEF99@cuug.ab.ca> BillStarrs wrote: > > It depends on the compression ratio of your engine. I have an1834 cc with > normal compression for that engine. I use 87 octane auto Gas and it works > fine. I think the 2100 cc has a higher compression ratio and requires 100 > octane. Auto gas works fine as long as the compression ratio and the octane > is correst. As far as quality is concerned , the auto gas sold at airports > comes out of the same tanks as that sold at gas stations. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave Vieira" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 6:46 PM > Subject: KR> fuel > > > Hello, > > > > What is the best fuel to use with a VW 2100cc?? > > > > 80/87 or 100LL or mo-gas? > > > > > > ===== > > Dave Vieira > > Ontario, Canada > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > Hello Dave, This is dependent wholly on compression ratio. On my 1834 with a cr of 8.1:1, low lead was the appropriate fuel. Mogas is such a hassle and the probability of getting a static ignition is something I do not want to see. Airport fuel although more expensive has much better quality control. 100LL would be my recommendation. 9:55pm MST Had coffee with Jean this afternoon, he was working on you wood kit. Sure nice wood, take a look at your center spar section and see the close rings, beautiful wood. Good Luck and Happy Flying! -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:19:29 +0200 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Stefan B." Subject: Re: KR> fuel Message-ID: <39AB6401.C9D5C715@wanadoo.fr> --------------1CA229EA1683FC5CFADC8F90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark Langford wrote: > > > One thing I keep hearing about running 100LL in VWs is that it plates out on > the valves and forces frequent valve jobs to clean them up. That may or may > not be so (maybe this will spark a little conversation on the subject). For > all I know they may be running too rich and confusing carbon for lead, so I > can't say for sure, but I've sure heard that an awful lot. I'm going to run > car gas almost exclusively in mine... > I found this sometimes ago on the Internet and I think it would be interesting for all. Sorry for the long message. Stefan Balatchev, Paris, France mailto:Stefan.Balatchev@wanadoo.fr Low Compression Engine Grade 100 Aviation Fuel Condensed from two articles on this subject Many Lycoming engines designated as low compression engines were originally certified to use Grade 80 aviation gasoline. The fuel was rated at 80 octane when the engine was leaned for cruise, and at 87 octane when it was set at rich for takeoff and climb. This aviation gasoline contained one half milliliter of lead per gallon. Owners of aircraft that use engines certified to use Grade 80 fuel occasionally have questions about the use of higher leaded fuels. During the mid-1970s, announcement of a single grade aviation fuel for all reciprocating aircraft engines created a furor which gradually faded away as pilots and mechanics became more knowledgeable of the actual effects of using the new fuel, Grade 100LL. Grade 100LL has two milliliters of lead per gallon and is rated at 100 octane when the engine is leaned for cruise, and at 130 octane when the mixture is set at rich. The fuel is designated as "low lead" because the previous fuel with a 100/130 octane rating contained twice as much lead, four milliliters per gallon. For all practical purposes, Grade 80 fuel with one half milliliter of lead has been phased out and is no longer available. Use of Grade 100LL fuel in engines certified for80 octane fuel can result in increased engine deposits both in the combustion chamber and in the engine oil. It may require increased spark plug maintenance and more frequent oil changes. The frequency of spark plug maintenance and oil drain periods will be governed by the type of operation. Operation at full rich mixture requires more frequent maintenance periods; therefore it is important to use approved mixture leaning procedures. To reduce or keep engine deposits at a minimum when using the leaded fuel available today, it is essential that the following four conditions of operation and maintenance are applied. These procedures are taken directly from Service Letter No. L185. A. GENERAL RULES 1. Never lean the mixture from full rich during take-off, climb, or high performance cruise operation unless the airplane owners manual advises otherwise. However, during takeoff from high elevation airports or during climb at higher altitudes, roughness or reduction of power may occur at full rich mixture. In such a case the mixture may be adjusted only enough to obtain smooth engine operation. Careful observation of temperature instruments should be practiced. 2. Operate the engine at maximum power mixture for performance cruise powers and at best economy mixture for economy cruise power; unless otherwise specified in the airplane owners manual. 3. Always return the mixture to full rich before increasing power settings. 4. During let-down and reduced power flight operations, it may be necessary to manually lean or leave mixture setting at cruise position prior to landing. During the landing sequence the mixture control should then be placed in the full rich position, unless landing at high elevation fields where operation at a lean setting may be necessary. 5. Methods for manually setting maximum power or best economy mixture. a. Engine Tachometer - Airspeed Indicator Method:The tachometer and/or the airspeed indicator may be used to locate, approximately, maximum power and best economy mixture ranges. When a fixed-pitch propeller is used, either or both instruments are useful indicators. When the airplane uses a constant speed propeller, the airspeed indicator is useful. Regardless of the propeller type, set the controls for the desired cruise power as shown in the owners manual. Gradually lean the mixture from full rich until either the tachometer or the airspeed indicator are reading peaks. At peak indication the engine is operating in the maximum power range. b. For Cruise Power: Where best economy operation is allowed by the manufacturer, the mixture is first leaned from full rich to maximum power, then leaning is slowly continued until engine operation becomes rougher until engine power is rapidly diminishing as noted by an undesirable decrease in airspeed. When either condition occurs, enrich the mixture sufficiently to obtain an evenly firing engine or to regain most of the lost airspeed or engine RPM. Some slight engine power and airspeed must be sacrificed to gain a best economy mixture setting. c. Exhaust Gas Temperature Method (EGT): Refer to the article on this subject in the Operations section of this book. Recommended fuel management_manual leaning will not only result in less engine deposits and reduced maintenance cost, but will provide more economical operation and fuel saving. B. ENGINE GROUND OPERATION The engine ground operation greatly influences formation of lead salt deposits on spark plugs and exhaust valve stems. Proper operation of the engine on the ground(warm-up, landing, taxi and engine shut-down) can greatly reduce the deposition rate and deposit formation which cause spark plug fouling and exhaust valve sticking. 1. Proper adjustment of the idle speed (600 to 650 RPM) fuel mixture, and maintenance of the induction air system will ensure smooth engine operation and eliminate excessively rich fuel/air mixtures at idle speeds. This will minimize the separation of the non volatile components of the high leaded aviation fuels greatly retarding the deposition rate. 2. The engine should be operated at engine speeds between 1000 and 1200 RPM after starting and during the initial warm-up period. Avoid prolonged closed throttle idle engine speed operation (when possible). At engine speeds from 1000 to 1200 RPM, the spark plug core temperatures are hot enough to activate the lead scavenging agents contained in the fuel which retards the formation of the lead salt deposits on the spark plugs and exhaust valve stems. Avoid rapid engine speed changes after start-up and use only the power settings required to taxi. 3. Rapid engine cool down from low power altitude changes, low power landing approach and/or engine shutdown too soon after landing or ground runs should be avoided. 4. Prior to the engine shut-down, the engine speed should be maintained between 1000 and 1200 RPM until the operating temperatures have stabilized. At this time the engine speed should be increased to approximately 1800RPM for 15 to 20 seconds, then reduced to 1000 to 1200RPM and shut-down immediately using the mixture control. C. LUBRICATION RECOMMENDATIONS Many of the engine deposits formed by combustion, regardless of the lead content of fuel used, are in suspension within the engine oil and are not removed by a full flow filter. When sufficient amounts of these contaminants in the oil reach high temperature areas of the engine they can be baked out, resulting in possible malfunctions such as in exhaust valve guides, causing sticking valves. The recommended periods of 50-hour interval oil change and filter replacement for all engines using full-flow filtration system and 25-hour intervals for oil change and screen cleaning for pressure screen systems must be followed. If valve sticking is noted, all guides should be reamed using the procedures as stated in latest editions of Service Instruction No. 1116 and/or Service Instruction No. 1425, and the time between oil and filter changes should be reduced. D. SPARK PLUGS The fuel management techniques outlined previously will aid in minimizing spark plug fouling. Engine operation, spark plug selection, and spark plug maintenance are all factors that help to keep engines operating smoothly with leaded fuels. If the magneto check before or after flight reveals any roughness caused by a fouled spark plug, open the throttle slowly and smoothly to cruise RPM, and lean the mixture as far as possible (yet with a smooth engine). After several seconds leaned, return to the proper mixture position for takeoff and recheck the magneto. If two such attempts do not clear the fouled plug, then return to the line and report the problem to maintenance. Spark plugs should be rotated from top to bottom on a 50-hour basis, and serviced on a 100-hour basis. If excessive spark plug lead fouling occurs, the selection of a hotter plug from the approved list in Service Instruction No. 1042 may be necessary. However, depending on the type of lead deposit formed, a colder plug from the approved list may better resolve the problem. Depending on the lead content of the fuel and the type of operation, more frequent cleaning of-the spark plugs may be necessary. Where the majority of operation is at low power, such as patrol, a hotter plug would be advantageous. If the majority of operation is at high cruise power, a colder plug is recommended. Spark plug fouling is not limited to engines that were certified for 80-octane aviation fuel, but which are using the higher leaded 100-octane gasoline. Therefore, the techniques recommended herein for operation and maintenance apply to all Lycoming piston engines, but with emphasis on the 80 octane engine using 100-octane fuel.E. SUMMARY When Grade 80 aviation gasoline was first phased out, the highly leaded Grade 100 green fuel was the only alternative for some operators. During that period of time, in the middle 1970s, exhaust valve erosion was a concern for the operators of low compression engines. There are two reasons why this should not cause concern today. First, Grade 100LL does not cause this problem, and second, the newer materials used in Textron Lycoming exhaust valves for more than 15 years are highly resistant to erosion. In addition, Grade 100LL has proved to be a satisfactory fuel for all Textron Lycoming reciprocating aircraft engines. The higher octane level does not change engine operating temperatures, and engine deposits on the spark plugs and in the oil can be managed by using the techniques outlined in previous paragraphs. --------------1CA229EA1683FC5CFADC8F90-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 05:33:42 -0700 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Cone Washers Message-ID: <002501c010ec$38a2e620$99cb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C010B1.8845B760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a couple of washers. They are about 7/8" dia. with countersunk = centerhole for a AN4 bolt. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C010B1.8845B760-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 17:59:41 EDT To: langford@hiwaay.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Horn2004@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> fuel: AV vs MO gas Message-ID: <4a.a378920.26dc3acd@aol.com> In a message dated 8/28/00 4:46:32 PM, langford@hiwaay.net writes: <> If Bobby Muse, Jr. is listening, I seem to remember him discussing his experience with both types of fuel in his KR2. I may be mistaken, but if my memory isn't totally shot, perhaps Bobby would care to share his experience on the subject. Steve Horn horn2004@aol.com Dallas, TX ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 19:27:02 -0700 To: "Wolf Packs, Inc" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Todd Servaes Subject: RE: KR Fly-ins Message-ID: <39AB1F75.A300E225@netzero.net> --------------9DC518438F0B043E2FFAFF11 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Paul and All Western KR Types, The Golden West EAA Regional Fly-in 2000 at Sacramento Executive Airport on September 8, 9, 10 is both a very KR friendly fly-in and I believe the right balance of big enough to see nearly anything you could want to in recreational aviation yet still have all the friendlyness of a little local fly-in. One thousand aircraft and eighty recreational aviation exhibitors are expected and each day will be full of flying activity from an air race from Spruce's headquarters to the fly-in to ultralight fly-bys. Jeanette Rand and I have spoken about the potential, last year with no organized effort we had four KRs, this event holds for having a Western KR Gathering coincide with the Golden West EAA Regional fly-in and I invite all western KR builders and fans to attend. We could easily create an impromptu KR event, if interest exists. For my part, as GW V. P., Exhibitor Coordinator and KR-2S builder, I can provide a large tent with audio / video equipment tables and chairs for a Saturday evening KR group meeting and the option to park all KRs together. Please, some west coast KR person take the lead and get some KRs and people together I am too busy with the fly-in itself to put a coincident Gathering on but will provide the above and any GW coordination with a KR group. E- mail me for any help I can provide. I also want to strongly urge all with flying KRs to not only attend but to race in the Aircraft Spruce's Golden West Air Race.Races like this are not only great sources of independently verified performance data, but KRs consistently win their classes and earn the respect they deserve but do not often get. Call 800/824-1930 to enter. The Golden West Online: www.gwfly-in.org Todd Servaes KR-2S V. P. GWAA Exhibitor Coordinator Golden West EAA Regional Fly-in 2000 --------------9DC518438F0B043E2FFAFF11-- ____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________ Download Now http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 ___________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 22:05:24 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Wolf Packs, Inc" Subject: RE: KR Fly-ins Message-Id: <4.3.2.7.2.20000828214648.00b954d0@pop.mindspring.com> >Jeanette Rand and I have spoken about the potential, last year with no >organized effort we had four KRs, this event holds for having a Western KR >Gathering coincide with the Golden West EAA Regional fly-in and I invite >all western KR builders and fans to attend. Okay, I'll fly the KR into SAC on the 8th. See how easy that was Todd. The flyer for Golden West says "RV/Tent camping". I hope there is some grass near the field for tents. Any suggestion on a location (like the B-B-Q pit at Arlington) for KR people to meet? Paul Martin, Ashland, OR www.wolfpacks.com/KR ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:48:19 GMT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: Honda alternator for KR1 Message-ID: Hello, netters- I'm behind in reading through digests, so forgive me if this was already answered, but... The question came up regarding electrics from a Honda 125 for use in the KR-1 electrical system. I may be wrong, but if that callout is from 'way back in Ken Rand's time, I'd be looking for something other than a Honda 125 alternator, since they haven't been made for a while. A suggestion. For a simple, cheap approach to this, you're welcome to look at how Marvin Barnard did his installation on the prototype M-19, using a dynamo and module off a John Deere "off-road vehicle". Low cost, too. You can see it at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/dynamo.html. This also appeared in EAA Experimenter back in early 1999, I think. Marvin's installation uses short standoffs to mount the VW engine directly to the firewall, so it will be very similar to the KR-1 setup as far as space available between the back of the engine and the firewall. There are also photos of Marvin's setup on my website, but I don't remember exactly where under "photos of the prototype"; email me direct for more information or questions. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:04:19 -0700 To: Timothy Brown , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR> log books Message-ID: <39ACA3E2.CF172A2E@teleport.com> Tim, My favorite story about log books was the one where the inspector says he wants to see photos of you sitting in the uncompleted airframe making airplane noises. I think a binder without removable pages (i.e a three ring binder is probably not OK) is good. The reason you don't want removable pages is to demonstrate that "it's all there" I use those "lab notebooks" that are used for College labs in Chemistry/Physics etc, they are ugly covers but have grid paper (or lined) inside. You can number the pages, and make notes (some have pre-numbered pages). I bought a poloroid when I started, snapped pictures just about daily and rubber cemented them into the book. This is not the BEST method, a photo album works better, but it has worked, and it's over 10 years old now. I'm on my second log book. I keep mine sort of like a diary... "Today x.x hours, sanding, worked on fuel line. " Total time yxy hours. I will also occasionally make a page of "To DO" lists, and order parts lists for ACS/Wicks. This way I can leave the project for months, come back and get right back into it. I still have to-do items that are several years old... but the good news, I know they are there. I also drew out my electrical schematics and put them in the book, as well as diagrams for tire toe-in, and the water level measurements when I trued up the wings etc. All the gusset angle calcuations so I could pre-cut the gussets to an estimated fit, were also done... lots of sin/cosine for each section... nasty, but it worked for me at the time. I waited to buy the "real" aircraft log until I had mounted the engine and was ready to run it out the first time. The aircraft & engine logs contain my ELT battery renewal date, and thats about it for the moment... It's beyond time to change my oil, and I haven't flown my bird yet! -- Regards Ross Timothy Brown wrote: > I am just starting. Have plans for KR2S, picked up > Spruce yesterday, have read all of Tony Bingelis > books, and hopefully will get started on construction > Labor Day weekend. Any helpful hints to keep me out > of trouble will be appreciated. > > Tony says to keep an Aircraft Log book and > Construction Log. Was wanting some input from all as > to what you are using and what you are keeping in the > log book(s). Can I use anything as the Log or should > I purchase something made commercially. I was at AS & > S earlier today and saw an EAA Aircraft Log Book but > it really didn't have much use for entering building > information, just FAA Airworthiness page plus engine, > fuel, weight and similar info on another page. > > Could I just use what I use to buy at college > something called a Theme Book (hard cardboard front > and back with about half size notebook pages in > between)? > > Anyway, would like to find some opinions on what > others are using. Everyone may not care so just > respond to timwbrown@yahoo.com. > > Thanks. > > Tim ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:06:01 -0700 To: Mark Langford From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Shop Vac report Message-ID: <39ACA449.CFDEF258@teleport.com> Mark, My father has a "Cyclone" dust collection system in his shop. He did all the duct work himself and saved $$, but my guess is that this type of outfit is bigger bucks than we would want to spend. To bad I can't walk over from Phoenix to Virginia and use his shop! -- Ross Mark Langford wrote: > Ross Youngblood wrote: > > >Also, I STILL owe you some $$... > > Ross, > > Don't worry about it. That was Trailing Edge Technology's money that paid > the $100 bill for the new KRNet list. Just give us $100 from this year's > "hat passing" at the Gathering to pay for it next year and we'll be fine. > > As for the shop vac thing, I may be about to do something that I rarely do. > Pack that sucker up in it's original box and take it back to Sears. I'm > nowhere near "completely satisfied"! Using the "fine" filter, I've used it > for a total of about 5 minutes to vacuum up dust from sanding Aeropoxy lite > and carbon fiber wing fillet work, and have already plugged up the filter. > In fact, there's no dust in the bottom of the canister, it's all stuck to > the pleated filter! My old POS Genie is ripe for the "water pipe" > conversion that Doug mentioned, since it has the side inlet described in the > article. Yes, you were late Doug, but better late than never. > > And as for putting the vacuum cleaner outside and "just running the hose > inside", that would be a bout an 80 foot hose in my case, which would be: > A) too far to run back and forth to turn it on and off, and B) too many bugs > entering the house on Summer nights, and C) too much loss of suction over > that distance. Yes, I could make an elaborate overhead PVC system with > drops all over the place with remote on/off and stuff like that, but the > drops would never be where I needed them, and I shouldn't have to! The > water pipe system sounds like it will do the job very nicely, using my el > cheapo 12 year old Genie that probably cost me $40 back then. > > I shoulda listened to Dr. Dean... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:11:59 -0700 To: Tim Bellville From: Ross Youngblood CC: ROBERT COOPER , krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Hose Message-ID: <39ACA5AE.A6F05229@teleport.com> There are three or four types of hose that you can purchase from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. Aeroduct CAT/SCAT/CEET/SCEET The SCEET withstands temps from -80 to +500F This was on page 123 of the '99 Aircraft Spruce catalog SCEET runs about $8.60 a foot for 2" diameter. I have the stuff in 1" and about 2" diameter (could be larger) at any rate the stuff is tough, but bends well without crushing. -- Regards Ross Tim Bellville wrote: > Does anyone have an idea on what kind of hose to use for my carb heat box to > the exsuast manifold. > my heat muff is welded to the stack and generats more heat then a shroud, > thus I need hose that can stand up to the heat. > Thanks > Tim > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 06:08:55 -0400 To: "Ross Youngblood" From: "Tim Bellville" Cc: "ROBERT COOPER" , Subject: Re: KR> Hose Message-ID: <005801c0126a$4f8937c0$b4d12581@default> Thanks Ross, sounds like I'm going to need some sceet. Can it be spliced to the cheaper hose to save cost?Say using about 6" off the stack then spliced in with some cat to go to the airbox? Thanks Tim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Youngblood" To: "Tim Bellville" Cc: "ROBERT COOPER" ; Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:11 AM Subject: Re: KR> Hose > There are three or four types of hose that you can purchase from > Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. Aeroduct CAT/SCAT/CEET/SCEET > > The SCEET withstands temps from -80 to +500F This was on page > 123 of the '99 Aircraft Spruce catalog SCEET runs about $8.60 a foot > for 2" diameter. > > I have the stuff in 1" and about 2" diameter (could be larger) at any rate > the stuff is tough, but bends well without crushing. > > -- Regards > Ross > > Tim Bellville wrote: > > > Does anyone have an idea on what kind of hose to use for my carb heat box to > > the exsuast manifold. > > my heat muff is welded to the stack and generats more heat then a shroud, > > thus I need hose that can stand up to the heat. > > Thanks > > Tim > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:22:06 -0700 To: Frank Ross From: Ross Youngblood CC: ROBERT COOPER , krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR Weight loss... Message-ID: <39ACA80E.ED1EAF76@teleport.com> I hate to plug diets, but I have been on the Atkins diet since January 4th of this year. I can eat all I want and have lost 30+ pounds. (Depends on if I think I was at 215 or 225 pounds when I started, I'm now down to 180. I think thats a considerable amount of fuel... now I have room for that Attitude indicator and HSI... I've eaten a lot of eggs, bacon and hamburgers without the bun since then, and Ceasar Salads... but if I'm hungry, I get to eat... that is what I like about that diet. Basicly cut out all sugar, and go light on carbohydrates, protien and water are cool so Meat/Poultry/Eggs/Fish are completely unrestricted, meaning, you can eat as much as you want of these whenever. Be sure to cook it in butter too as it is good for you. (Fat is Good on the Atkins diet, as it suppresses appetite.) I'd recommend the book "Dr Atkins New Diet Revolution" as no one will believe you that all the stuff that is supposed to be bad for you will help you lose weight, lower your colestorol, and blood pressure. Dr Atkins is a heart specialist, and developed the diet for his heart patients. Ok, well I've blabbed on way too much on this. I have discovered, as this was my first real "diet", that many people consider diets such as this a "FAD" and or some type of rip off. All I can say is read the book if you are interested, it pretty much explains what you can and can't eat in the various phases on the diet, what is going on with your insulin levels etc in way more detail than I could. -- Regards Ross Frank Ross wrote: > --- ROBERT COOPER wrote: > > Netters > > For an old fat guy who's bones don't move so well, > > getting into and out of a KR can be a challenge. > > Jack, > The best way to take 50 pounds off my plane is lose 50 > lbs off my waistline. I have put on a pound a year in > the last 30 yrs increasing to 2 lbs/yr the last 10 > yrs. It sneaks up on you. We're not alone. I am sure > this is why I have trouble getting in and out of small > places now and why my joints ache (couldn't be old > age). I know if I ate 2000 calories a day (including > beer), quit eating ice cream and potato chips and > drank water instead of cola drinks, I'd drop that 50 > lbs in about a year. Maybe if I just spent more time > working on my plane instead of sitting at this > computer... > > ===== > Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 23:53:10 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: IFR in KR? ... Trim Message-ID: <39ACAF56.680AB75F@teleport.com> Hey Good news... I passed my Stage I checkride for my IFR ticket... two more to go! (I'm at a FAA part 141 school which has a tight syllabus for training and after each phase you have to take a stage check with another instructor.) They tell me that flying by the steam gagues is the toughest, but I think trying to add and subtract compass headings, and calculate how much time it takes to make a two minute standard rate turn to cover 135 degress is a bit tricky. So all of this brings me back to an old KR thread... is the KR a good IFR platform. I'm thinking it comes down to this... can the KR be trimmed to fly straight and level? If so, it has a chance, if not... probably not. I don't think I would consider making an approach in the KR down to minimums, but I think you could transition through clouds safely to VFR-on top conditions, such are present in Oregon frequently..... but well time will tell, I've got to start flying mine! But this brings me to the stock Trim tab nyrod... if anyone is doing this, beware the cable routing shown in the plans, my belief is this is the source of my trim tab difficulties. It is too many bends too sharply, which causes some binding in the system. I've played with graphite, but am not happy with it. I still need to fabricate the trim tab lever as specified by Monte Miller in an OLD newsletter, but I have all the parts. Can somone tell me what they came up with? I'm not really interested in going with the MAC trim tab servo setup... too much work too late. I think I will try one or two alternatives before falling back on the MAC electric trim setup. Comments? -- Ross ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 07:48:15 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> IFR in KR? ... Trim Message-ID: <3d.517479.26de4e7f@aol.com> In a message dated 8/30/00 2:45:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rossy@teleport.com writes: << So all of this brings me back to an old KR thread... is the KR a good IFR platform. >> I'll address this, seeing I have the MAC servo trim in my KR, which BTW guys is a great little arrangement. I really believe that the KR is a 180 degree turn aircraft in IMC conditions. As I am sure you are aware Ross, in IFR conditions your instrument scan is your life blood. Unless your KR is fully instrumented, I would not fly it intentionally in IMC. With that said, a KR with an electric turn coordinator, compass and altimeter would be sufficient to indicate situational awareness to the pilot. On my IFR checkride I had to shoot an NDB approach, partial panel, into the hold, timed turn to the outbound leg, cleared for the approach from the outbound leg, 500 feet above established altitude, procedure turn and report inbound at established altitude all partial using the three instruments mentioned above along with a stop watch. I won't even go into cross wind components, NDB off field and holding constant sink rate and 90 knots:-). The three instuments I alluded to are pretty standard instrumentation for a KR but are considered to be partial panel for IMC. In IMC this would encourage a request for course intercept and a radar assisted approach if available. Keep up the training Ross, it is a well deserved ticket. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 15:57:35 EDT To: rossy@teleport.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Flykr2@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> IFR in KR? ... Trim Message-ID: In a message dated 08/30/2000 2:44:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rossy@teleport.com writes: << But this brings me to the stock Trim tab nyrod... if anyone is doing this, beware the >> You could try routing the the nyrod thru tubing to keep it from bending at some unwanted place. Clay Brod Harlem, Ga ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:08:54 +0200 To: From: "Peter Nauta" Subject: RE: KR> KR Weight loss...a bit off topic! Message-ID: Ross, Sounds a lot like the Monsieur Montignac diet over here in Europe. Even the Dutch Queen uses it. It basically says: - Calories are nonsense. Your body adapts to run on less calories, if forced to. - Your insulin release should be altered, so that a rise in blood sugar levels don't immediately cause fat deposit. In fact, this diet trains a slower rise in sugar levels, which is followed by a more gradual release of insulin. This again causes more stable weight control, and more energy at the end of the day. It is not a quick succes method, but stimulates good eating habits, and permanent weight control. I lost 20 pounds over 6 months, I'm 165 pounds, and 5'11". - When you starve your body to death with a heavy diet, it will put on reserves as soon as you go back to normal eating. - In the first phase, cut out beer, potatoes, white bread (as a matter of fact all non-whole wheat bread types) all "white" pastas (only whole wheat pastas) sugar. - Eat as much fruit as you want, except bananas, but eat those at least 30 mins before your normal breakfast, lunch dinner. Eating it as soon as 3 hours after a normal meal will cause fementation, even alcohol forming, because of the much faster digestion of fruit sugars. Bad stomach aches and cramps are a result, and you can even measure the alcohol content rising in your blood. - Every meal should contain ONLY fats combined with proteins, fibers, and vegs, OR proteins, fibers, vegs combined with CARBOHYDRATES. Combining CARBOHYDRATES with FATS is bad, as it will stimulate fat deposit. We alternate two days of MEAT/VEGS meals with one day of VEGS/STARCHES. - In the second phase (after you reached your target weight, for the rest of your life) you can occasionally have something BAD to eat, without altering this new insulin pattern. This diet stimulates eating enough, not starving. So, calory-wise it doesn't make sense, but it works. Watch out for those sneaky products with sugar added: hamburgers, bread, sausages, you will be amazed at what food products contain sugar derivatives. A glass of red wine or two a day is fine, cheese on whole rye or whole grain toasts are fine for those long nights. Pure chocolate with no sugar added is also fine. Amazon has several titles, amongst others "Eat yourself slim (North American)" by Michel Montignac, when searched on "montignac diet". I can highly recommend these, for I am using this method and can vow for it's effectiveness. There's even a "business man's survivor guide" for those killer lunches, happy hours, diners etc. Regards, Peter Nauta > -----Original Message----- > From: rossy@teleport.com [mailto:rossy@teleport.com] > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:22 AM > To: Frank Ross > Cc: ROBERT COOPER; krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> KR Weight loss... > > > I hate to plug diets, but I have been on the Atkins diet since January > 4th > of this year. I can eat all I want and have lost 30+ pounds. (Depends > on if I think I was at 215 or 225 pounds when I started, I'm now down > to 180. I think thats a considerable amount of fuel... now I have > room > for that Attitude indicator and HSI... > > I've eaten a lot of eggs, bacon and hamburgers without the bun since > then, and Ceasar Salads... but if I'm hungry, I get to eat... that is > what > I like about that diet. Basicly cut out all sugar, and go light on > carbohydrates, > protien and water are cool so Meat/Poultry/Eggs/Fish are completely > unrestricted, > meaning, you can eat as much as you want of these whenever. Be sure to > cook it in butter too as it is good for you. (Fat is Good on the Atkins > diet, as it > suppresses appetite.) I'd recommend the book "Dr Atkins New Diet > Revolution" > as no one will believe you that all the stuff that is supposed to be bad > for you > will help you lose weight, lower your colestorol, and blood pressure. > Dr Atkins > is a heart specialist, and developed the diet for his heart patients. > > Ok, well I've blabbed on way too much on this. I have discovered, as > this was > my first real "diet", that many people consider diets such as this a > "FAD" and > or some type of rip off. All I can say is read the book if you are > interested, it > pretty much explains what you can and can't eat in the various phases on > the > diet, what is going on with your insulin levels etc in way more detail > than I could. > > -- Regards > Ross > > Frank Ross wrote: > > > --- ROBERT COOPER wrote: > > > Netters > > > For an old fat guy who's bones don't move so well, > > > getting into and out of a KR can be a challenge. > > > > Jack, > > The best way to take 50 pounds off my plane is lose 50 > > lbs off my waistline. I have put on a pound a year in > > the last 30 yrs increasing to 2 lbs/yr the last 10 > > yrs. It sneaks up on you. We're not alone. I am sure > > this is why I have trouble getting in and out of small > > places now and why my joints ache (couldn't be old > > age). I know if I ate 2000 calories a day (including > > beer), quit eating ice cream and potato chips and > > drank water instead of cola drinks, I'd drop that 50 > > lbs in about a year. Maybe if I just spent more time > > working on my plane instead of sitting at this > > computer... > > > > ===== > > Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 15:42:58 GMT To: stonet@gnv.fdt.net, krnet@mailinglists.org, langford@hiwaay.net From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: dynamo for VW Message-ID: Tim (and others) asked: >Do you by chance know the Amperage output of the unit shown? It's rated at 5 amps, and is sufficient for keeping the battery charged (the prototype M-19 has no other electrical demands). There is also an 18 amp unit available, used on ThermoKing diesel refrigerators, but it's a bit heavier. Marvin has been flying with this setup over 200 hours now, over about 4 years, using a single Bosch 009, a battery, and this alternator/rectifier setup. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 13:04:10 EDT To: From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: Fwd: KR List Message-ID: <50.a4590a3.26de988b@aol.com> ------_Part_39ad3e8b-0064-1da7-010203040506 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fowarded for Jim Faughn. ------_Part_39ad3e8b-0064-1da7-010203040506 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-ye04.mx.aol.com (rly-ye04.mail.aol.com [172.18.151.201]) by air-ye04.mx.aol.com (v75_b3.11) with ESMTP; Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:43:20 -0400 Received: from mail.mvp.net (mail.mvp.net [64.85.192.50]) by rly-ye04.mx.aol.com (v75_b3.9) with ESMTP; Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:42:55 -0400 Received: from default (slip-32-101-53-214.mo.us.prserv.net [32.101.53.214]) by mail.mvp.net (8.9.0/8.9.0) with SMTP id VAA12435 for ; Tue, 29 Aug 2000 21:11:08 -0500 (CDT) Reply-To: From: "Jim Faughn" To: "Rick Junkin" Subject: KR List Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:42:58 -0500 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 Hey Rick, it seems that it's been so long since I've posted that I don't know how. I don't know maybe it's the digest or who knows anyway, would you mind sending this out. I'm sure you'll have a response for me too. Sorry we didn't get together. Looks like we will have to do a thing at Parks Airport and maybe take a flight. Or, maybe I can fly up to Smart when you are having an EAA thing. Jim --- Well, its been a long time since I've posted to the net. I have to admit I have been considering donating my plane to a museum. I'm serious. It has been 10 months since I've flown my KR. After I got back from the last Gathering, I took the engine off to replace the rear engine seal. With great advice from Steve this went fairly well and worked fine. However, after I finished the project I didn't go back. Too many other activities I guess. Well, on Sunday I went over to the airport after not having even seen the plane for 10 months and found it VERY dirty. Actually, I was looking for a reason to call it quits. You see, we have this addiction to sailing. We have committed to buying a Gemini 105 sailboat which is a 34 foot long 14 foot wide catamaran that is currently in the Chesapeake on its way to the Bahamas for the winter and then on to KY Lake where we will take ownership of it. Anyway, back to the airplane stuff. After going to the airport on Sunday I pulled the engine over a few times and found to my surprise that only one cylinder was down a little bit. So, I pulled it through about 200 blades to pump some oil through the engine and charged the battery. While the battery was charging I washed it from all the accumulated filth and under all of it was a pretty good looking 8 year old KR. Out from the hanger and it started on the first time. Ran pretty good and I let it build up the oil temp while watching all the gauges very closely. After about 5 min, the alternator quit charging and I shut the engine down. I ultimately found a corrosion problem in one of the connectors and fixed it. Now after pulling the prop through, all the cylinders were the same compression and it ran great. Last night, I went over and did the annual inspection expecting to find something wrong and again back to the museum idea, BUT, WRONG. Now my only problem is that when I replaced the motor dampeners they were a bit short of the old ones so I need a couple of washers to space the engine back out and stop the spinner from rubbing against the cowling. That's was the project for tonight. Well, when I spaced the washers then I had interference in the cowl, so I had to do some clearancing on the valve covers. You know it never ends. Anyway, looks like I'm taking off on Thursday morning to finish up and then fly it on Friday. Bottom line, after looking for reasons to donate my KR, I've only found that I can't do it. The plane is ready to fly and ready for it's 8th KR Gathering. So, sorry folks, I'm bringing down my guitar again and planning on having a great time starting on Thursday afternoon. By the way Mark, the tail wheel spring fix is till holding up well and I'm not changing a thing. Jim Faughn 4323D Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 63108 (314) 652-7659 mailto:jfaughn@mvp.net N891JF ------_Part_39ad3e8b-0064-1da7-010203040506-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************