From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 4 Sep 2000 19:47:11 -0000 Issue 85 Date: Monday, September 04, 2000 11:47 AM krnet Digest 4 Sep 2000 19:47:11 -0000 Issue 85 Topics (messages 1898 through 1927): Locating a Builder 1898 by: IMA FLYER core foam 1899 by: bob 1915 by: Donald Reid Day One 1900 by: Timothy Brown 1909 by: w.g. kirkland 1911 by: Ross Youngblood Engine Baffles 1901 by: Doug Peyton 1912 by: Ross Youngblood 1916 by: Tom Crawford An admonition and an offer 1902 by: Robert Maniss Test 1903 by: Michael Taglieri 1917 by: Timothy Brown Re: Hose 1904 by: Ross Youngblood 1921 by: Tim Bellville Trim tab nyrod 1905 by: Ross Youngblood Re: IFR in KR? ... Trim 1906 by: Ross Youngblood 1907 by: Ross Youngblood Re: newbie questions 1908 by: w.g. kirkland Re: started construction 1910 by: Ross Youngblood New photo's 1913 by: Wolf Packs, Inc Re: T88 question (was Day One) 1914 by: Donald Reid Re: RAF 48 gap seals 1918 by: JEAN VERON 1925 by: Wolf Packs, Inc length of KR2S 1919 by: Timothy Brown 1920 by: Mark Langford 1923 by: Jerry Picou Re: Tires 1922 by: Tim Bellville 1924 by: Tim Bellville Bubble Canopy 1926 by: Florin L Pintea Gel Cell Batteries 1927 by: Tom Crawford Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 3 Sep 00 17:05:38 CDT To: "Mark Langford" , From: IMA FLYER Subject: Locating a Builder Message-ID: <20000903220538.11215.qmail@www0v.netaddress.usa.net> Hello KRnetters, = Well it's getting close!!! The gathering draws near!!! = ** ONLY 30,240 minutes left to wait. ** I don't know about any of you other builders, but this has me more wo= und up than super ball on uppers. Even more than OSH 2K. Anyway, I was lookin= g through all the builder photos I've downloaded and was wondering if anyon= e out there has an email address for Calvin Campbell (N792bc) I think he's in O= K maybe. He built the tri-gear KR2 with the 'choice' grey/maroon paint. I'm= hoping to get the 'skinny' on how he got his plane to look that nice. Th= anks for the help. And as always...be safe and watch yur 6. = Jon Miller, Minneapolis ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://home= =2Enetscape.com/webmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 19:07:10 -0400 To: From: "bob" Subject: core foam Message-ID: <003401c015fb$b0d50920$02000003@i4t4j9> ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C015DA.292DDFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-7" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I know that I've read this in the archives some where but I can't find = it. I have 4 sheets of 3+ACI- x 24+ACI- x 8' that is Styrafoam brand = and it's marked 40 high load, polystyrene. is it acceptable as a core = material for wings?? this is my first question to the group please be = gentle thanks Robert Preston Selinsgrove PA=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C015DA.292DDFE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 07:56:49 -0400 To: From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> core foam Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000904075305.00967560@pop.erols.com> --=====================_1673846==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >I know that I've read this in the archives some where but I can't find >it. I have 4 sheets of 3+ACI- x 24+ACI- x 8' that is Styrafoam brand and >it's marked 40 high load, polystyrene. is it acceptable as a core >material for wings?? The only thing wrong with polystyrene is that fuel will dissolve it instantly. You can not use it in or around a fuel tank. If you use polystyrene as a core near the fuel tank, any fuel spillage will seep through the glass and attack the core. It would leave a void under the glass and that is the area that will fail under load. Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm USUA Club 250 at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html --=====================_1673846==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 17:47:57 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Timothy Brown Subject: Day One Message-ID: <20000904004757.48979.qmail@web9501.mail.yahoo.com> Dear group: Thanks for all the advice thus far. Construction DAY ONE has come and gone: one side jigged, verticals and diagonals all cut and about 20% of the gussets cut. Tomorrow I plan on finishing the gussets and glue up side one. QUESTION: Any suggestions for applying the T-88? Can a brush be cleaned? Just dip the ends in? Any advice will be very helpful. Again thanks to all for the assistance in making day one a success. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 23:23:32 -0400 To: "Timothy Brown" , "Group KR NET" From: "w.g. kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> Day One Message-ID: <004201c0161f$823b5e60$df905bd1@kirkland> Tim; Brushes can be cleaned but make sure u do a thorough job or they will become very rigid. I found toung depressors to do very well. Just get a big box for about $10. W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "Timothy Brown" To: "Group KR NET" Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 8:47 PM Subject: KR> Day One > Dear group: > > Thanks for all the advice thus far. Construction DAY > ONE has come and gone: one side jigged, verticals and > diagonals all cut and about 20% of the gussets cut. > Tomorrow I plan on finishing the gussets and glue up > side one. > > QUESTION: Any suggestions for applying the T-88? Can > a brush be cleaned? Just dip the ends in? Any advice > will be very helpful. > > Again thanks to all for the assistance in making day > one a success. > > Tim > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 20:39:36 -0700 To: Timothy Brown From: Ross Youngblood CC: Group KR NET Subject: Re: KR> Day One Message-ID: <39B31978.89C989C9@teleport.com> Tim, If you use brushes, I would recommend the CHEAP ones for applying epoxy. However, for applying epoxy to spruce, I just found that using the wooden stir sticks as spatulas worked well, and was less mess. (You can toss everything later). If you want to re-use a brush, put it in a zip-lock bag and throw it in the freezer/fridge. In Arizona the freezer worked well, I don't know if it would be overkill for your location. -- Ross Timothy Brown wrote: > Dear group: > > Thanks for all the advice thus far. Construction DAY > ONE has come and gone: one side jigged, verticals and > diagonals all cut and about 20% of the gussets cut. > Tomorrow I plan on finishing the gussets and glue up > side one. > > QUESTION: Any suggestions for applying the T-88? Can > a brush be cleaned? Just dip the ends in? Any advice > will be very helpful. > > Again thanks to all for the assistance in making day > one a success. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 03:01:23 CEST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Doug Peyton" Subject: Engine Baffles Message-ID: When putting in engine baffles, how close do you put the aluminum to the cowling? In other words, how much space is between the metal and the cowling for the rubber and asbestos gasket? I'm about half way around with the baffle metal, and have spacing of about 3/4" to 1" between the top edge of the metal and the fiberglass cowling, and hope that's OK. Will an automotive brand of high-temperature RTV sealant be a good choice for the gasket around the engine? On another topic, how much oil should be put in a stock Type IV engine? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 20:44:58 -0700 To: Doug Peyton From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Engine Baffles Message-ID: <39B31ABA.15F1B408@teleport.com> Doug Peyton wrote: > When putting in engine baffles, how close do you put the aluminum to the > cowling? In other words, how much space is between the metal and the > cowling for the rubber and asbestos gasket? I'm about half way around with > the baffle metal, and have spacing of about 3/4" to 1" between the top edge > of the metal and the fiberglass cowling, and hope that's OK. I think I used about 1" to more on mine, but I'd have to measure. I just used the rubber gasket material, no asbestos. You can also make your own from fiberglass... the Great Plains gasket manual tells you how. Using Fiberglas and RTV, and roll it out on a sheet of glass. > Will an automotive brand of high-temperature RTV sealant be a good choice > for the gasket around the engine? I have seen somthing like this on other KR birds, but in areas such as sealing plug wire holes... not so much next to the engine. There is high temp gasket stuff you can use if RTV doesn't work out. > > On another topic, how much oil should be put in a stock Type IV engine? I would go buy a VW manual which discusses capacities on the Type IV. -- Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 08:21:24 -0400 To: Doug Peyton From: Tom Crawford CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Engine Baffles Message-ID: <39B393C4.3242@ufl.edu> Doug Peyton wrote: > > > On another topic, how much oil should be put in a stock Type IV engine? > _________________________________________________________________________ Doug, 3.75 to 4 Qts. with a new filter. -- Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Mailto:toys@ufl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 02:01:04 +0000 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: manrj@att.net (Robert Maniss) Subject: An admonition and an offer Message-Id: <20000904020104.SRWZ9297.mtiwmhc26.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att.net> First, an admonition to those still "on the fence" about building. Follow your dream and don't wait too long as I have. Coming up on my 70th BD, no medical, and the latest is a retina problem. Next, the offer. My KR-2 project has ended so I would like to pass what I have done to someone. Boat is complete, rudder pedals; wing spars and horizontal tailfeathers ready for foam and glass; Diehl TD gear; all alum. pulley mounts; all KR premolds (except wings); new airspeed ind.; too much to list here. Suffice it to say it still needs 51% but with "some assembly" you can have something that looks like an airplane in the driveway in just a few days. If interested, please contact me off the net and I will be glad to give a more complete list of everything included. I'm asking $3250 obo. Located in Abilene, Texas. Tel. 915-672-2117 FAX 015-676-2498 email manrj@att.net Bob Maniss ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 22:10:54 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Michael Taglieri Subject: Test Message-ID: <20000903.221229.9590.1.MikeT_NYC@juno.com> Test KR ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 08:18:27 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Timothy Brown Subject: test Message-ID: <20000904151827.74940.qmail@web9501.mail.yahoo.com> test __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 19:41:36 -0700 To: Tim Bellville From: Ross Youngblood CC: ROBERT COOPER , krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Hose Message-ID: <39B30BDF.C4731634@teleport.com> Tim, I guess you could splice it, you would need a rigid ring, which would add some weight. -- Ross Tim Bellville wrote: > Thanks Ross, sounds like I'm going to need some sceet. Can it be spliced to > the cheaper hose to save cost?Say using about 6" off the stack then spliced > in with some cat to go to the airbox? > Thanks > Tim > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ross Youngblood" > To: "Tim Bellville" > Cc: "ROBERT COOPER" ; > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:11 AM > Subject: Re: KR> Hose > > > There are three or four types of hose that you can purchase from > > Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. Aeroduct CAT/SCAT/CEET/SCEET > > > > The SCEET withstands temps from -80 to +500F This was on page > > 123 of the '99 Aircraft Spruce catalog SCEET runs about $8.60 a foot > > for 2" diameter. > > > > I have the stuff in 1" and about 2" diameter (could be larger) at any rate > > the stuff is tough, but bends well without crushing. > > > > -- Regards > > Ross > > > > Tim Bellville wrote: > > > > > Does anyone have an idea on what kind of hose to use for my carb heat > box to > > > the exsuast manifold. > > > my heat muff is welded to the stack and generats more heat then a > shroud, > > > thus I need hose that can stand up to the heat. > > > Thanks > > > Tim > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 12:47:18 -0400 To: "Ross Youngblood" From: "Tim Bellville" Cc: "ROBERT COOPER" , Subject: Re: KR> Hose Message-ID: <003901c0168f$cae1bd60$8dd12581@default> Thanks Ross I'll let you know how it works. Tim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Youngblood" To: "Tim Bellville" Cc: "ROBERT COOPER" ; Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 10:41 PM Subject: Re: KR> Hose > Tim, > I guess you could splice it, you would need a rigid ring, which would add > some > weight. > -- Ross > > Tim Bellville wrote: > > > Thanks Ross, sounds like I'm going to need some sceet. Can it be spliced to > > the cheaper hose to save cost?Say using about 6" off the stack then spliced > > in with some cat to go to the airbox? > > Thanks > > Tim > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ross Youngblood" > > To: "Tim Bellville" > > Cc: "ROBERT COOPER" ; > > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 2:11 AM > > Subject: Re: KR> Hose > > > > > There are three or four types of hose that you can purchase from > > > Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. Aeroduct CAT/SCAT/CEET/SCEET > > > > > > The SCEET withstands temps from -80 to +500F This was on page > > > 123 of the '99 Aircraft Spruce catalog SCEET runs about $8.60 a foot > > > for 2" diameter. > > > > > > I have the stuff in 1" and about 2" diameter (could be larger) at any rate > > > the stuff is tough, but bends well without crushing. > > > > > > -- Regards > > > Ross > > > > > > Tim Bellville wrote: > > > > > > > Does anyone have an idea on what kind of hose to use for my carb heat > > box to > > > > the exsuast manifold. > > > > my heat muff is welded to the stack and generats more heat then a > > shroud, > > > > thus I need hose that can stand up to the heat. > > > > Thanks > > > > Tim > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 19:56:38 -0700 To: Flykr2@aol.com From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Trim tab nyrod Message-ID: <39B30F66.19C0E12D@teleport.com> Clay, The trim tab nyrod as specified in the plans consists of a blue outer tube which has a plastic center rod which slides inside of it. The problem I have is that using the plans diagram for placement, you have some minor bends in the tubing... what you REALLY want, is a straight shot, or very minor bends in the tubing I think... or go with the MAC trim servo that I have heard great things about here on KR-net. -- Ross Flykr2@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 08/30/2000 2:44:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > rossy@teleport.com writes: > > << But this brings me to the stock Trim tab nyrod... if anyone is doing > this, beware the >> > You could try routing the the nyrod thru tubing to keep it from bending at > some > unwanted place. > Clay Brod > Harlem, Ga ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 20:00:04 -0700 To: toys@ufl.edu From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> IFR in KR? ... Trim Message-ID: <39B31034.1B2A1D35@teleport.com> Tom, Two hours? Hmmm... let me go get my ACS catalog and check this again. -- Ross Tom Crawford wrote: > Ross Youngblood wrote: > > > > > > But this brings me to the stock Trim tab nyrod... if anyone is doing > > this, beware the > > cable routing shown in the plans, my belief is this is the source of my > > trim tab > > difficulties. It is too many bends too sharply, which causes some > > binding in > > the system. I've played with graphite, but am not happy with it. I > > still need > > to fabricate the trim tab lever as specified by Monte Miller in an > > OLD newsletter, > > but I have all the parts. > > > > Can somone tell me what they came up with? I'm not really interested in > > going > > with the MAC trim tab servo setup... too much work too late. I think I > > will try > > one or two alternatives before falling back on the MAC electric trim > > setup. > > > > Comments? > > > > > > Ross, > > I'm not trying to sell MAC servo's, but the nyrod really does not work > very well. Took me 2 hours to convert it to a MAC system, and I have > never looked back. I was able to pull the wires thru the outer nyrod by > taping them to the inner nyrod and pulling from the front. Now the outer > nyrod acts as a protective sheath for the wires. > > BTW, I made the manual trim adjuster that you speak of. Looks great. > For sale- best offer. > > -- > Tom Crawford > Gainesville, FL > N262TC > Mailto:toys@ufl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 20:05:42 -0700 To: Eduardo Iglesias , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR> IFR in KR? ... Trim Message-ID: <39B31185.95936CDD@teleport.com> Eduardo, Thanks for the picture. I'm not sure that I understand the diagram. I think that if you are saying that the two bends in the line provide some stress relief, and keep the trim out of tension, then I understand, however it is those same bends called out in the plans, that create resistance to smooth travel of the trim, which is the problem I have. I am considering the MAC trim system again... perhaps mounting it inside the fuselage, and running the line into the elevator... I'm not sure. Stand by. Eduardo Iglesias wrote: > Ross > > The problem of the trim when passing areas with hinges is that it makes work > the system in flexion (A); that is the way in that it suffers bigger > deformations and fatigues. > I believe that making two soft turns with a transition to the means (see > enclosed illustration, "B") it supposes that the system works in rotation > and on a long tract, with much smaller fatigue. I hope it serves you. > Regards > Eduardo > > -----Mensaje original----- > De: Ross Youngblood > Para: krnet@mailinglists.org > Fecha: Miércoles, 30 de Agosto de 2000 03:43 a.m. > Asunto: KR> IFR in KR? ... Trim > > >Hey Good news... I passed my Stage I checkride for my IFR ticket... > >two more to go! > >(I'm at a FAA part 141 school which has a tight syllabus for training > >and > >after each phase you have to take a stage check with another > >instructor.) > >They tell me that flying by the steam gagues is the toughest, but > >I think > >trying to add and subtract compass headings, and calculate how much time > > > >it takes to make a two minute standard rate turn to cover 135 degress is > > > >a bit tricky. > > > >So all of this brings me back to an old KR thread... is the KR a good > >IFR platform. > >I'm thinking it comes down to this... can the KR be trimmed to fly > >straight and > >level? If so, it has a chance, if not... probably not. I don't think > >I would consider > >making an approach in the KR down to minimums, but I think you could > >transition > >through clouds safely to VFR-on top conditions, such are present in > >Oregon > >frequently..... but well time will tell, I've got to start flying mine! > > > >But this brings me to the stock Trim tab nyrod... if anyone is doing > >this, beware the > >cable routing shown in the plans, my belief is this is the source of my > >trim tab > >difficulties. It is too many bends too sharply, which causes some > >binding in > >the system. I've played with graphite, but am not happy with it. I > >still need > >to fabricate the trim tab lever as specified by Monte Miller in an > >OLD newsletter, > >but I have all the parts. > > > >Can somone tell me what they came up with? I'm not really interested in > >going > >with the MAC trim tab servo setup... too much work too late. I think I > >will try > >one or two alternatives before falling back on the MAC electric trim > >setup. > > > >Comments? > > > > -- Ross > > > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Name: Imagen correo.bmp > Imagen correo.bmp Type: Windows Bitmap (image/x-MS-bmp) > Encoding: base64 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 23:14:19 -0400 To: "Dr. No" , From: "w.g. kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> newbie questions Message-ID: <001501c0161e$3822ab40$df905bd1@kirkland> Dr. No; Just a comment on no. 5. Lexan is virtually unbreakable. It might present a problem getting out in the event of an accident. W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. No" To: Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 2:37 PM Subject: KR> newbie questions > I'm about to start in on completing a 49% project (new to me), and have > some questions for the kind, considerate members of this group. I'm sure > these have been answered on a weekly basis in the past, but the archives > are down, so excuse my redundancy. > 1. What is the experience with fitting the new airfoil on already-built > spars? > 2. Ditto for horizontal stabilizer? > 3. Retractable v. fixed conventional gear? > 4. Lengthened engine mount to move the CG foreward? > 5. Would anyone who is contemplating blowing a Lexan canopy like to > share cost/work? I'm in Fort Worth. > I'm sure I'll think of others, maybe the archives will be up first. > Thanks, > Scott > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 20:36:05 -0700 To: Timothy Brown From: Ross Youngblood CC: Group KR NET Subject: Re: KR> started construction Message-ID: <39B318A4.E6BC1A7A@teleport.com> Tim, This is vaguely familiar... I believe I had some extra length on my KR, so I stretched it a bit. I thought the KR2S was longer. I don't recall exactly. In fact, I think there is somthing about not cutting the aft end until you fit the tail post if I recall. I don't have my construction manual handy, does this ring a bell with anyone? - Ross Timothy Brown wrote: > I have now started construction of my KR2S. A > question has arose that I would like comments on. The > RR spruce list indicates 14' longeron pieces but as I > began laying out the locations for the verticals I > discovered that I only needed a little over 12' > (145.5"). Am I doing something wrong. I'm a true > believer in measure twice/ask the net/cut once. > > Also, any suggestions for getting the length and > angles right for the verticals? > > Quick responses would be appreciated because I plan to > devote today and tomorrow to construction. > > Thanks much. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 22:29:06 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Wolf Packs, Inc" Subject: New photo's Message-Id: <4.3.2.7.2.20000903220749.00b0d260@pop.mindspring.com> Many of you have asked for more photo's of the KR2 I have for sale so I added a couple of pages to the existing site. They have 4 or 5 pictures on each new page and should load in less than a minute at 28,800. Weather permitting, I'll fly it to the Golden West fly-in (Sacramento) where you can see it in person. Please e-mail me off the list with any questions. http://wolfpacks.com/KR will get you to the main page. The new ones are: http://wolfpacks.com/KR/instruments.htm and http://wolfpacks.com/KR/motor.htm Have some fun, Paul Martin Ashland, OR mailto:paul@wolfpacks.com/KR ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 07:52:35 -0400 To: From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> T88 question (was Day One) Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000904074859.009689d0@pop.erols.com> --=====================_1419997==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >QUESTION: Any suggestions for applying the T-88? Can >a brush be cleaned? Just dip the ends in? Any advice >will be very helpful. With any epoxy that has not cured (including T88) you can clean with acetone or MEK, place it in a zip-lock plastic bag, and store it in a freezer. The epoxy chemical reaction will stop at the low temperature and the brush can be re-used many times. Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm USUA Club 250 at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html --=====================_1419997==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 10:54:04 -0500 To: "Mark Langford" , From: "JEAN VERON" Subject: Re: KR> RAF 48 gap seals Message-ID: <001301c01688$8dc90a20$63111b3f@computer> Martin Roberts also tried gap seals on the RAF 48 for one Sun-N-Fun 100 race and felt they did no good and took them off. Jean N4DD ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Langford To: Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 7:45 AM Subject: KR> RAF 48 gap seals > WingNuts, > > Jeff Scott tried aileron gap seals on his RAF48 winged KR, and reports that > they made them feel MUCH heavier (rather than lighter as on Troy's AS5046 > wing) and he gained nothing in the climb rate department. He'll file a > comprehensive report later, but suffice it to say that gap seals are > apparently only beneficial for the AS5046. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 10:04:53 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Wolf Packs, Inc" Subject: Re: KR> RAF 48 gap seals Message-Id: <4.3.2.7.2.20000904091550.00b04a30@pop.mindspring.com> Oscar had some 4 mil frosty textured mylar and I tried it as gap seals on my RAF 48 just for fun. I gained a little in climb rate. It's hard to say exactly how much, something around 40 fpm, maybe more. No change in the feel of the stick at the lower speeds. I can't comment on top end differences since I have only tried them in the pattern. I took them off to do some sanding and haven't put them back on yet. Probably would use 8 or 10 mil next time. The thicker 10 mil smooth mylar that I think Troy and Jeff used would be better than the 4 mil as I noticed my thin ones did curve up into the gap if i pushed on them. Using only the double sided 3M tape one piece of mylar came off but that could be because it had a slight texture to the surface, the tape stayed on the wing. A narrow strip of clear packaging tape over the leading edge of the mylar kept the rest from peeling off, plus it's so thin that there was almost no bump where it met the paint. Perhaps at climb angles of attack the big gap on the underside is more of a factor than at a flat out speed run angle. What a fun experiment! >Martin Roberts also tried gap seals on the RAF 48 for one Sun-N-Fun 100 race >and felt they did no good and took them off. >Jean >N4DD Paul Martin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 09:15:45 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Timothy Brown Subject: length of KR2S Message-ID: <20000904161545.75334.qmail@web9502.mail.yahoo.com> Dear group: HELP! I have some saying I'm right and some saying a screwed up in laying out my top longeron at 145.5". Would anyone with a stock KR2S measure the top longeron from vertical A to O. I find it to be 145.5 inches (a little over 12'). Others tell me I must be using the KR2 plans because the 2S top longeron is definitely 14'. Any response from a definitive source would sure help. Also, anyone that can confirm using 2S plans as their guide would give me confidence (or confirm that I screwed up). Thanks. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 11:19:48 -0500 To: "Group KR NET" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> length of KR2S Message-ID: <005001c0168b$f26dc800$a5f780ce@300emachine> > would sure help. Also, anyone that can confirm using > 2S plans as their guide would give me confidence (or > confirm that I screwed up). I just physically measured mine, and it's 150" from beginning (firewall) to tail (tailpost at the top longeron), and mine is 4.5" longer than normal, so you're correct. But if I had 14' of longerons, I personally would use it to add an extra bay and lengthen the plane another 11" (I think that's what a typical bay is), for the reasons already mentioned. You can do what you think is right, and nobody's going to fault you for it... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 13:06:35 -0400 To: Group KR NET From: Jerry Picou Subject: Re: KR> length of KR2S Message-ID: <39B3D69B.EF246C5A@cybrtown.com> Tim: If you are building a KR2S, You should have a sheet (blueprint) Labeled Drawing A, which has the dimensions for the fuselage sides and horizontal framing. This sheet is included if you purchased the supplemental plans for the KR2S. Looking at my print I show a measurement of 145.5" from A to O I believe you will start out with a top longeron at around 14' however this will be trimmed back after the framing members are in place. Jerry Picou www.Geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/4130 Timothy Brown wrote: > Dear group: > > HELP! I have some saying I'm right and some saying a > screwed up in laying out my top longeron at 145.5". > Would anyone with a stock KR2S measure the top > longeron from vertical A to O. I find it to be 145.5 > inches (a little over 12'). Others tell me I must be > using the KR2 plans because the 2S top longeron is > definitely 14'. Any response from a definitive source > would sure help. Also, anyone that can confirm using > 2S plans as their guide would give me confidence (or > confirm that I screwed up). > > Thanks. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 12:58:38 -0400 To: "Ross Youngblood" From: "Tim Bellville" Cc: Subject: Re: KR> Tires Message-ID: <004e01c01691$600ce260$8dd12581@default> Hey everyone , I was at the local motocycle shop the other day and found some great 5x5.00 tries for my Sonerai. One of the problems with spring type landing gear is that the wheels do not have a constant ,"toe in -toe out", due to different weight loads and turns. the problem with using a "Saw tooth" type tire is that it wants to ride on the sidewall. these new tires are shaped more like a wheel barrough tire with tread going well down the side wall. They cost $14.00 ea. I'll have A manufacture and part number in a couple days and let everone know how they work out. Tim ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:01:03 -0400 To: "Tim Bellville" , "Ross Youngblood" From: "Tim Bellville" Cc: Subject: Re: KR> Tires Message-ID: <006001c01691$b6c66c20$8dd12581@default> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Bellville" To: "Ross Youngblood" Cc: Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 12:58 PM Subject: Re: KR> Tires > Hey everyone , > I was at the local motocycle shop the other day and found some great 5x5.00 > tries for my Sonerai. > One of the problems with spring type landing gear is that the wheels do not > have a constant ,"toe in -toe out", due to different weight loads and turns. > the problem with using a "Saw tooth" type tire is that it wants to ride on > the sidewall. > these new tires are shaped more like a wheel barrough tire with tread going > well down the side wall. > They cost $14.00 ea. > I'll have A manufacture and part number in a couple days and let everone > know how they work out. > Tim > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 11:56:29 -0600 To: "KR-Net" From: "Florin L Pintea" Subject: Bubble Canopy Message-ID: Hi All, Someone was wondering earlier about homebuilt bubble canopies. Here's a link to a site that explains the "how to" for this subject. I haven't built one yet but I was seriously contemplating it. My only concern is the optical quality of the final product, as I would hate to end up with a canopy that would "warp/distort" the pilot/passenger view. Other than that I think it would be doable. It would probably be easier if a few builders would share the cost of building the oven since this would be the major expense of this experiment. Whenever I get to it I'll let you know what the results were, and if someone else is doing it or has done it I'm sure we would all like to know what the results were. http://recumbents.com/wisil/bubbles/hpvbubbles.htm Thanks, Florin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 15:53:18 -0400 To: KR-net users group From: Tom Crawford Subject: Gel Cell Batteries Message-ID: <39B3FDAE.1744@ufl.edu> Seems that I recall a thread a while back about Gel Cell aircraft batteries. Anyone have any experience with a small one in a KR? Maybe 100 to 150 CCA? -- Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Mailto:toys@ufl.edu ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************