From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 13 Dec 2000 20:01:22 -0000 Issue 138 Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 12:02 PM krnet Digest 13 Dec 2000 20:01:22 -0000 Issue 138 Topics (messages 3301 through 3322): Re: Getting there 3301 by: GARYKR2.cs.com 3302 by: William J. Starrs 3311 by: George Allen Dragonfly canopy details 3303 by: Mark Langford re-use of plans 3304 by: Oscar Zuniga Re: CO Monitors in the cockpit 3305 by: David R. Christensen Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 3306 by: UncleLeon.aol.com 3309 by: David R. Christensen 3315 by: David R. Christensen 3316 by: David R. Christensen Flight instruments 3307 by: Ralph H Snyder 3308 by: Ralph H Snyder KR2-B XXX - KR1-B 3310 by: Tao000.aol.com 3312 by: Frank Ross Gap seal and inspec. holes 3313 by: Al Friesen KR1-B 3314 by: Tao000.aol.com 3317 by: Brian Vasseur 3321 by: Frank Ross dragonfly hinge comments 3318 by: Bob Smith KR2 ventilation 3319 by: Serge F. VIDAL bambi style canopy hinge 3320 by: Bob Smith Ailerons 3322 by: Al Friesen Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 20:27:11 EST To: afriesen@kootenay.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> Getting there Message-ID: In a message dated 12/8/00 1:54:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, afriesen@kootenay.com writes: << What do you guys do for a gap seal? I plan on using metal fairings with some screws to hold it down. afriesen@kootenay.com >> That is the way I stuck mine on. Simple, down and dirty. They haven't blown off yet. I've had her up to 200mph a couple of times. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 20:14:06 -0700 To: , , From: "William J. Starrs" Subject: Re: KR> Getting there Message-ID: <002d01c06320$6c553280$780b2aa2@starrs> Another method is rubberized plastic such as that which goes around the base board in the bath room or kitchen. It is very easy to work with and looks good. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2000 6:27 PM Subject: Re: KR> Getting there > In a message dated 12/8/00 1:54:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, > afriesen@kootenay.com writes: > > << What do you guys do for a gap seal? I plan on using metal fairings with > some screws to hold it down. > afriesen@kootenay.com >> > That is the way I stuck mine on. Simple, down and dirty. They haven't > blown off yet. > I've had her up to 200mph a couple of times. > Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. > garykr2@cs.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:53:19 -0500 To: From: "George Allen" Subject: Re: KR> Getting there Message-ID: <001401c063de$4e234e00$77a9dcd8@george> >Another method is rubberized plastic such as that which goes around the base board in the bath room or kitchen. It is very easy to work with and looks good. > That is the way I stuck mine on. Simple, down and dirty. They haven't > blown off yet. I know of one KR that used model airplane covering I believe it's called MONOKOTE. It's real thin and makes a tight seal. Ask GaryKR2, ..He saw it. Just forgot. George Allen GeorgeA@paonline.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 21:47:20 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Dragonfly canopy details Message-ID: <004f01c06325$10c4da10$561cf618@600athlon> I have no idea why it is that I sit around and think up stuff that you guys would be interested in, but I dare say that if you have questions about the Dragonfly canopy for your KR, you need to see Mark Lougheed's work at http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/skipper/388/dflycanopysurvey/ . At the bottom you can download the 2D or 3D geometry, as well as Acrobat scale drawings. And while you're at it, you might as well see my diatribe on cc'ing combustion chambers at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/valvejob.html . Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 14:01:31 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: re-use of plans Message-ID: Dean wrote: >I bought an old set of plans for a KR-2 from a nice fellow >After deciding I really liked the design, I bought new plans >with the "S" addition from R.R. thus I am legal This is exactly what I did, shortly after I joined KRNet. I put out an offer to buy a set of plans, got a response from a guy who had had them for years but never started his project, and we made a deal. I then wrote to RR about "upgrading", paid a re-registration fee and the cost of the "S" upgrade, and now have a numbered set of plans under my name... at about half the full cost. The agreement you make when you buy and register the plans (you sign and send in the cover page)- is that you are allowed to build one airplane from one set of plans... not too hard to understand that. The agreement states that you are to send in a copy of the page prior to your first parts purchase, which I guess does give them the option of checking to see if you're a registered builder before they sell you parts. I'm not sure if they do or not; I've never purchased anything from RR except the plans. The idea of passing around a set of plans so several people can build from them is a violation of the agreement, much like copying music CDs or tapes, or bootlegging software. Yes, it's done all the time, but considering the cost of a CD, tape, or set of plans- I sleep better knowing what I have is mine and was come by honestly, and that I'm supporting someone who is contributing to something I enjoy. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 07:58:57 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> CO Monitors in the cockpit Message-ID: <002401c0638b$45b88b20$cc785ad1@davec> Richard, I installed a couple of NACA inlets forward of the cockpit. I made them per specs. I found in a Sport Aviation article. I made a foam core and glassed over it then cut out the foam. Then I cut holes in the plywood and bonded the inlets on the inside and faired the plywood into them. I hooked these up with fresh air ducting from auto supply. I sized the duct to fit over a couple of Old Spice deoderant tubes which I installed on either side of the instrument panel just under the lower edge. I made the flapper valves by laying up a few layers of glass over pieces of piano wire. These were installed by squeezing the deoderant tubes enough to insert the piano wire into a couple of holes. These are adjusted by finger pressure through the front of the vent. I have a cover that seals off the tailcone from the cockpit. I have all the ventilation I ever need and clean air from the upper, forward fuselage. dave -----Original Message----- From: Seifert, Richard E To: 'Corvaircraft' ; 'KRnet' Date: Monday, December 04, 2000 8:04 AM Subject: KR> CO Monitors in the cockpit >Mark Langford made a very good point regarding CO monitors when using cabin >heaters. I discovered that KR's with retracts are susceptible to high >levels of CO even if they don't have heaters. On my trip back from Oshkosh >I was almost overcome by CO and it took some time to figure out where it was >coming in from, since I don't have a heater. I eventually discovered that >the slipstream even over well faired-in retract gear will pull a lot of air >out from the cockpit through the holes in front of the main spar where the >retract mechanism extends into the wing. This makes the cockpit a very low >pressure area while in flight ( By the way FORGET cockpit static source for >your instruments). Air rushes into the cockpit from any available source, >and In my case it was coming in from the tailcone. The holes in the tail >fairing at the junction of the rudder and the elevator were allowing the >engine exhaust carried by the propwash from the lower left of my cowling to >enter the tailcone and be drawn into the cockpit through the fresh air vents >I had installed in the bulkhead behind my head. The result was MAJOR >HEADACHE for the last several hundred miles back to Southern CA. It seems >this situation is most pronounced at my cruise speed and I have never really >found a good solution for this problem, so for now I am very careful about >leaving the fresh air vents closed on long trips and I frequently check my >CO monitor. > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 16:16:31 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: UncleLeon@aol.com Subject: Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 Message-ID: KR Pilots: Please tell me about the TO and Landing charastics of this airplane. I have a commercial / instrument ticket and 700 hrs, but only about 15 hrs in taildraggers. It seem that the KR may be a bit "hairy" on TO and Landings (especially X-wind) due to the short distance between the main gear and the tailwheel. How does this ground handling compare to a Citabria? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 17:08:41 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 Message-ID: <000401c063d8$124a0320$12785ad1@davec> Leon, Mine is a KR-2 with a 75 hp Revmaster, retractable gear and flaps. I have been flying it nine years and about 500 hours. My current comfort zone is about 10 knots 90 degree crosswind component. I made an approach once with a 20 knot component and it was obvious from my full slip heading that I would not be able hold it straight with rudder alone. My mechanical brakes are not smooth so I would hesitate to attempt holding it straight with differential braking in a strong cross wind. I diverted from the Brigham City (Utah) airport to Ogden where they have three intersecting runways and the winds were not as strong. In general my aircraft is easy to takeoff and land. I fly short final at 80 mph indicated and touch down at about 70 mph. The controls are light, especially in pitch, and that takes some getting used to. I have dual sticks in mine so I am able to rest my arm on my thigh and control the aircraft with wrist action mostly and avoid overcontrolling. I do wheel landings exclusively. Touch down in a wheel landing is very smooth due to ground effect on the aircraft. I always use full flaps for landing as the drag on them is aft of the wheels and so tends to stabilize the aircraft in the tail up phase of the landing. At about 50 mph indicated I raise the flaps and lower the tail with full aft stick. It's important to raise the flaps before pulling the tail down as the ground effect pressure tends to lift the tail which is a bad thing in the three point attitude. The tailwheel is light on the runway and is a direct connection to the rudder pedals (no springs) so as if I make a significant correction with the rudder after lowering the tail the tailwheel will tend to skid a little until the aircraft slows down and is controllable with tailwheel steering alone. I delay braking as long as I can to avoid possible steering difficulties due to one side or the other braking first. Once braking is started I like to hold steady pressure on them and prevent chattering during deceleration. For takeoff I just gradually increase throttle to full and accelerate rapidly to reasonable speed then raise the tail and continue accelerating to about 70 mph and rotate. The aircraft is capable of operation in higher crosswinds for takeoff due to the stabilizing effect of the thrust on the nose and the additional forward component induced by the increased flow past the rudder. Most KR's are now being built with fixed gear and some with tricycle gear. They use smooth, disc brakes, which would help a lot in landing. I took about five hours of training in a Super Cub before flying my Acrosport (my first homebuilt). This was a good introduction to flying taildraggers but ground handling of a close coupled homebuilt was a whole different ball game. I spent several hours working up to taxiing with the tail up. I made sure not to accidently takeoff by noting at what rpm flight was not possible and not exceeding that rpm when experimenting with rotation to get it light on the gear. Once to that point wheel takeoffs and landing except for the actual touch down were in my experience base so I was confident that I was ready. -----Original Message----- From: UncleLeon@aol.com To: krnet@mailinglists.org Date: Monday, December 11, 2000 2:25 PM Subject: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 >KR Pilots: Please tell me about the TO and Landing charastics of this >airplane. I have a commercial / instrument ticket and 700 hrs, but only >about 15 hrs in taildraggers. It seem that the KR may be a bit "hairy" on TO >and Landings (especially X-wind) due to the short distance between the main >gear and the tailwheel. How does this ground handling compare to a Citabria? > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 12:32:58 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 Message-ID: <000701c0647a$b7ce1d20$52785ad1@davec> Al, I took my slide out this morning and measured the needle. It is .055" thick at the end and tapers for a length of 2". As I recall this is the richest needle that Revmaster makes. With this needle I still had to turn the mixture adjusting screw inside the slide out 4 1/2 turns to get a peak EGT (increase and then slight decrease) during leaning in the full throttle test. Revmaster suggests 3 turns as a starting point. If you turn it out much more that 4 1/2 turns you run out of thread engagement. You must feel resistance to turning after the screw is adjusted. The nylok insert in the screw provides this resistance. After the mixture is adjusted properly then you can adjust your idle speed with the stop screw. Make sure the engine idles no less than 700 rpm as it can die on you if it gets much slower than that. Also make sure it will idle back close to that as it is harder to slow down on landing with a faster idle. Make sure your barrel to throttle shaft set screw (right next to the screw that attaches the band going to the slide) is installed tight with loctite (I use the blue Permatex material which holds securely but allows screw removal). If this works loose it will prevent the throttle from idling back all the way. With a 1200 rpm idle I was unable to lower the tail without getting airborne. I had a ground loop crash because of this when I shut the engine off to lower the tail and without that thrust up front and extra flow over the rudder, and with the drag on the stopped prop, found the aircraft to be virtually uncontrollable. Once the tail skids beyond a certain point it's as stubborn as a mule and keeps right on going. I also install the screw that holds the band on with loctite. I have about 2" of travel in my mixture control from my full rich setting to idle cutoff. I usually operate the engine at about 1150 degrees EGT on my #3 cylinder with the mixture control pulled out about half way. Cylinders #1 and #2 run about 100 degrees cooler than #3 and #4. I have been told (not by Revmaster of course!) that this is due to the fact that the fuel is injected into the carb on that side and those cylinders get more of the fuel. I was told this could be cured by installing a deflector aft of the carb but I never tried that. If I run the engine above 1200 degrees EGT especially during a climb I sometimes get a slight lag in rpm and a strange sound in the engine possibly detonation in one of the cylinders. I just put in a new EGT gage (haven't tried it yet) as the old one stopped working so gage accuracy could have been a factor. Also placements of probes could affect the reading. Always shut the engine down with the fuel shutoff valve as the idle cutoff on the mixture control will allow fuel to seep into the intake manifold. When starting (especially with a hot engine) turn the fuel valve on then crack the mixture very slightly. A fraction too much on the mixture control can let too much fuel in and by the time the engine fires it will be flooded. If you would like to get the instruction sheets on the Revflow carb I'm sure Revmaster would be happy to provide them. Their number is (760) 244-3074. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Al Friesen To: David R. Christensen Date: Monday, December 11, 2000 8:32 PM Subject: Re: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 >Dave, > I have a 2100D Revmaster with Revflo carb. My question is about fuel >mixture control. It seems to me that I have to pull the mix control out >about 2" to get near the max power mix and have only about 1/4" of mixture >control travel between rich and lean. What are your settings and how much >travel do you have on the control. Have you info on the needle size you are >using? Also in the throttle gate spring end there is a screw which adjusts >the needle but doesn't want to be tight as this causes binding and the gate >will not travel to idle. Any info would be appreciated. I am nearing final >inspection, have done some taxi runs to burn in the brakes. I like the way >it handles. Al >----- Original Message ----- >From: David R. Christensen >To: krnet mailing lists >Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 5:08 PM >Subject: Fw: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 > > >> Leon, >> Mine is a KR-2 with a 75 hp Revmaster, retractable gear and flaps. I >> have been flying it nine years and about 500 hours. My current comfort >zone >> is about 10 knots 90 degree crosswind component. I made an approach once >> with a 20 knot component and it was obvious from my full slip heading that >I >> would not be able hold it straight with rudder alone. My mechanical >brakes >> are not smooth so I would hesitate to attempt holding it straight with >> differential braking in a strong cross wind. I diverted from the Brigham >> City (Utah) airport to Ogden where they have three intersecting runways >and >> the winds were not as strong. >> In general my aircraft is easy to takeoff and land. I fly short final >> at 80 mph indicated and touch down at about 70 mph. The controls are >light, >> especially in pitch, and that takes some getting used to. I have dual >> sticks in mine so I am able to rest my arm on my thigh and control the >> aircraft with wrist action mostly and avoid overcontrolling. I do wheel >> landings exclusively. Touch down in a wheel landing is very smooth due to >> ground effect on the aircraft. I always use full flaps for landing as the >> drag on them is aft of the wheels and so tends to stabilize the aircraft >in >> the tail up phase of the landing. At about 50 mph indicated I raise the >> flaps and lower the tail with full aft stick. It's important to raise the >> flaps before pulling the tail down as the ground effect pressure tends to >> lift the tail which is a bad thing in the three point attitude. The >> tailwheel is light on the runway and is a direct connection to the rudder >> pedals (no springs) so as if I make a significant correction with the >rudder >> after lowering the tail the tailwheel will tend to skid a little until the >> aircraft slows down and is controllable with tailwheel steering alone. I >> delay braking as long as I can to avoid possible steering difficulties due >> to one side or the other braking first. Once braking is started I like to >> hold steady pressure on them and prevent chattering during deceleration. >> For takeoff I just gradually increase throttle to full and accelerate >> rapidly to reasonable speed then raise the tail and continue accelerating >to >> about 70 mph and rotate. The aircraft is capable of operation in higher >> crosswinds for takeoff due to the stabilizing effect of the thrust on the >> nose and the additional forward component induced by the increased flow >past >> the rudder. >> Most KR's are now being built with fixed gear and some with tricycle >> gear. They use smooth, disc brakes, which would help a lot in landing. >> I took about five hours of training in a Super Cub before flying my >> Acrosport (my first homebuilt). This was a good introduction to flying >> taildraggers but ground handling of a close coupled homebuilt was a whole >> different ball game. I spent several hours working up to taxiing with the >> tail up. I made sure not to accidently takeoff by noting at what rpm >flight >> was not possible and not exceeding that rpm when experimenting with >rotation >> to get it light on the gear. Once to that point wheel takeoffs and >landing >> except for the actual touch down were in my experience base so I was >> confident that I was ready. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: UncleLeon@aol.com >> To: krnet@mailinglists.org >> Date: Monday, December 11, 2000 2:25 PM >> Subject: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 >> >> >> >KR Pilots: Please tell me about the TO and Landing charastics of this >> >airplane. I have a commercial / instrument ticket and 700 hrs, but only >> >about 15 hrs in taildraggers. It seem that the KR may be a bit "hairy" >on >> TO >> >and Landings (especially X-wind) due to the short distance between the >main >> >gear and the tailwheel. How does this ground handling compare to a >> Citabria? >> > >> > >> >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 12:47:53 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 Message-ID: <002001c0647c$cd4ef500$52785ad1@davec> Bill, I have about 6" prop clearance in level attitude. I have the standard retractable gear shimmed to about a 2 degree camber to compensate for spring bar deflection. I am using Lamb tires and 52"X48" prop. I touch down slightly tail low and raise the tail to level. I suppose if someone were to overcontrol at this point the prop could hit but it would have to be pretty drastic. Being able to rest my arm on my thigh with the dual sticks helps preclude overcontrolling in pitch. Dave -----Original Message----- From: William J. Starrs To: David R. Christensen Date: Monday, December 11, 2000 5:34 PM Subject: Re: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 >How much ground clearance do you have (for your prop.) on take off when you >raise the tail? What I'm really asking is how do you keep from dinging the >prop in a wheel landing?Bill Starrs Prescott, Az >----- Original Message ----- >From: "David R. Christensen" >To: "krnet mailing lists" >Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 6:08 PM >Subject: Fw: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 > > >> Leon, >> Mine is a KR-2 with a 75 hp Revmaster, retractable gear and flaps. I >> have been flying it nine years and about 500 hours. My current comfort >zone >> is about 10 knots 90 degree crosswind component. I made an approach once >> with a 20 knot component and it was obvious from my full slip heading that >I >> would not be able hold it straight with rudder alone. My mechanical >brakes >> are not smooth so I would hesitate to attempt holding it straight with >> differential braking in a strong cross wind. I diverted from the Brigham >> City (Utah) airport to Ogden where they have three intersecting runways >and >> the winds were not as strong. >> In general my aircraft is easy to takeoff and land. I fly short final >> at 80 mph indicated and touch down at about 70 mph. The controls are >light, >> especially in pitch, and that takes some getting used to. I have dual >> sticks in mine so I am able to rest my arm on my thigh and control the >> aircraft with wrist action mostly and avoid overcontrolling. I do wheel >> landings exclusively. Touch down in a wheel landing is very smooth due to >> ground effect on the aircraft. I always use full flaps for landing as the >> drag on them is aft of the wheels and so tends to stabilize the aircraft >in >> the tail up phase of the landing. At about 50 mph indicated I raise the >> flaps and lower the tail with full aft stick. It's important to raise the >> flaps before pulling the tail down as the ground effect pressure tends to >> lift the tail which is a bad thing in the three point attitude. The >> tailwheel is light on the runway and is a direct connection to the rudder >> pedals (no springs) so as if I make a significant correction with the >rudder >> after lowering the tail the tailwheel will tend to skid a little until the >> aircraft slows down and is controllable with tailwheel steering alone. I >> delay braking as long as I can to avoid possible steering difficulties due >> to one side or the other braking first. Once braking is started I like to >> hold steady pressure on them and prevent chattering during deceleration. >> For takeoff I just gradually increase throttle to full and accelerate >> rapidly to reasonable speed then raise the tail and continue accelerating >to >> about 70 mph and rotate. The aircraft is capable of operation in higher >> crosswinds for takeoff due to the stabilizing effect of the thrust on the >> nose and the additional forward component induced by the increased flow >past >> the rudder. >> Most KR's are now being built with fixed gear and some with tricycle >> gear. They use smooth, disc brakes, which would help a lot in landing. >> I took about five hours of training in a Super Cub before flying my >> Acrosport (my first homebuilt). This was a good introduction to flying >> taildraggers but ground handling of a close coupled homebuilt was a whole >> different ball game. I spent several hours working up to taxiing with the >> tail up. I made sure not to accidently takeoff by noting at what rpm >flight >> was not possible and not exceeding that rpm when experimenting with >rotation >> to get it light on the gear. Once to that point wheel takeoffs and >landing >> except for the actual touch down were in my experience base so I was >> confident that I was ready. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: UncleLeon@aol.com >> To: krnet@mailinglists.org >> Date: Monday, December 11, 2000 2:25 PM >> Subject: KR> Re: krnet Digest 11 Dec 2000 01:17:44 -0000 Issue 137 >> >> >> >KR Pilots: Please tell me about the TO and Landing charastics of this >> >airplane. I have a commercial / instrument ticket and 700 hrs, but only >> >about 15 hrs in taildraggers. It seem that the KR may be a bit "hairy" >on >> TO >> >and Landings (especially X-wind) due to the short distance between the >main >> >gear and the tailwheel. How does this ground handling compare to a >> Citabria? >> > >> > >> >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 15:44:55 -0800 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ralph H Snyder Subject: Flight instruments Message-ID: <20001211.154457.-463197.0.ralphndori@juno.com> Netters Does anyone know a good source for rebuilt or new flight instruments? Ralph ralphndori@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 15:47:06 -0800 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ralph H Snyder Subject: Flight instruments Message-ID: <20001211.154707.-463197.1.ralphndori@juno.com> Netters Does anyone know a good source for rebuilt or new flight instruments?I would appreciate any help I could get. Ralph ralphndori@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 19:23:26 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Tao000@aol.com Subject: KR2-B XXX - KR1-B Message-ID: <6d.caf23eb.2766c9fe@aol.com> KRNetters, Well, it seems that to redesign and reengineer the KR2 to hold the stress of a pair of motorglider wings is a bit more then I want to take on. I've learned why an engineer has to go to school for four years. I've learned that sand bagged wing stress tests don't take everything that could happen in the skies into account. Even the design programs that are very expensive are lacking in comparison to what a real engineer can do. This all being the case, has any KR1-B's ever been built other then the prototype? Has any KR1S's ever been built or some variation to take care of the over sensitive pitch control? Does anyone have a set of unused set of plans for the KR1 and/or the B supplement that they would like to sell? Are there any KR1 flyers out there that would email me on my concerns on the characteristics of the KR1? OR does anyone know if an engineer would charge an arm and a leg to give me the specs to design the KR2 to handle forty feet wings or if would be a reasonable cost? Thanks, Robert ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 17:58:19 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> KR2-B XXX - KR1-B Message-ID: <20001212015819.28989.qmail@web4702.mail.yahoo.com> Robert, Why not just buy a set of KR-1 plans with supplement from R-R? They are very inexpensive and easy to get. I am positive that a few, maybe more than a few, KR-1 Bs have been built and flown. From what I've seen of the KR-2s, I would think that a stretch of the KR-1 of 10 -14 inches would get rid of some of that pitch sensitivity and wouldn't hurt the plane otherwise. --- Tao000@aol.com wrote: > KRNetters, > > Well, it seems that to redesign and reengineer the > KR2 to hold the stress of > a pair of motorglider wings is a bit more then I > want to take on. > This all being the case, has any KR1-B's ever been > built other then the > prototype? > > Has any KR1S's ever been built or some variation to > take care of the over > sensitive pitch control? > > Does anyone have a ... set of plans for > the KR1 and/or the B > supplement that they would like to sell? > > Are there any KR1 flyers out there that would email > me on my concerns on the > characteristics of the KR1? > > Thanks, > > Robert ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:47:10 -0800 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Gap seal and inspec. holes Message-ID: <005701c063f6$aadba580$52cb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C063B3.885A77E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Gary, I was thinking of using sign vinyl but like to use 2" strip of aluminum = painted to color. A top piece from aileron to front spar, a leading edge = piece to bottom of spar and a final piece to aileron gape. Using a few = metal screws to hold in place. Anybody in final stages of construction I suggest putting inspection = holes in the bottom of the wing stubs just under the aileron rod to = bellcrank bolt. I used a hole saw 3" dia. centered under the bolt, had = to cut it off center again so I could get my big mitts in there to undo = the bolt to adjust the length of the rod. I have both wings on her now. = She looks more respectable in the hangar beside all the regular a/c. = Al ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01C063B3.885A77E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 14:02:40 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Tao000@aol.com Subject: KR1-B Message-ID: <23.4d60b0b.2767d050@aol.com> KRNetters, I talked to Mrs. Rand today and she is a very nice lady. I wanted to make sure that RR would get some money of mine as I will be building an airplane of their design. I will be soon getting the plans for a KR1 and the B supplement. How fast and what rate of climb has other KR1's flyers gotten out of their aircraft and what engine are you using? Has anyone ever used a two cycle engine on a KR? Are there any KR1-B builders or flyers on the list? Thanks, Robert ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 15:48:40 -0700 To: , From: "Brian Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> KR1-B Message-ID: <00ba01c0648d$ae0b0ce0$2c45e4cf@C5477> I'm putting serious thought into using a Hirth 2stroke on my KR2, but I haven't done much work to find out how much further forward it will have to be, etc. etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 12:02 PM Subject: KR> KR1-B > KRNetters, > > I talked to Mrs. Rand today and she is a very nice lady. I wanted to make > sure that RR would get some money of mine as I will be building an airplane > of their design. I will be soon getting the plans for a KR1 and the B > supplement. > > How fast and what rate of climb has other KR1's flyers gotten out of their > aircraft and what engine are you using? > > Has anyone ever used a two cycle engine on a KR? > > Are there any KR1-B builders or flyers on the list? > > Thanks, > > Robert > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 17:11:23 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> KR1-B Message-ID: <20001213011123.16724.qmail@web4702.mail.yahoo.com> Robert, Glad you got to talk to Ms Rand. Also glad you decided to buy the KR-1 plans from her. You may find a lot of useable information at the KR Newsletter Archives at: http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/commodity/844/ Some of the earlier newsletters had pretty good descriptions of flight in the KR-1s, though I am not sure about the B model. You may be surprised when you get your plans. At first or second reading, you may think there's not enough information there and it is too confusing to build from. The pictures are very old and poorly copied. At least on mine. Once I got a good look at a set of KR-2 plans, however, I could see that they will do the job with a little help from your friends. If you have not built a plane or seen many sets of plans, it is REAL important to read over the plans from start to finish first. Try things out with cheap wood first. Make prototypes to see how things fit and make your mistakes there first. Good Luck --- Tao000@aol.com wrote: > KRNetters, > > I talked to Mrs. Rand today and she is a very nice > lady. I wanted to make > sure that RR would get some money of mine as I will > be building an airplane > of their design. I will be soon getting the plans > for a KR1 and the B > supplement. > > How fast and what rate of climb has other KR1's > flyers gotten out of their > aircraft and what engine are you using? > > Has anyone ever used a two cycle engine on a KR? > > Are there any KR1-B builders or flyers on the list? > > Thanks, > > Robert ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 18:01:45 -0800 To: From: "Bob Smith" Subject: dragonfly hinge comments Message-ID: <002501c064a8$a5adfba0$ed941918@nycap.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C06465.970474A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I ordered a dragonfly hinge from Wicks to evaluate it. For $2.50 I = didn't expect much but its actually not bad. I wish I could buy one like = it but a bit stronger and better made. It actually seems to be pretty strong and fairly well made. The design = is rather sophisticated. Its unfortunate that it's not really up to = aircraft quality (is it??). It appears to be a cabinet hinge made in = Italy. Its made of 3/64"steel (steel I guess). Its a compound hinge made = up of 6 separate metal pieces held together by 7 axis pins made of = 1/8"steel that are simply hammered over to keep them in place. There are = 4 holes in each of the two mounting plates to attach to something. As it = swings open from a 90 deg default position, the upper plate ( and axis = of canopy rotation) raises by 7/8 inch (and rotates), allowing clearance = for the canopy leading edge to swing down as the trail edge swings up. = It appears that it must be mounted no further down that about 2" from = the canopy leading edge to get 50 deg of canopy opening. Its not much to look at, but since its made of steel I would guess that = it probably would be strong enough to use in a KR canopy front-hinge = installation. Having said all that......... 1)Does anyone know if this particular hinge that Wicks sells has been = used successfully in Dragonflys or KRs? 2)is there a Dragonfly site that I can visit that might give me more = information about this hinge? Thanks for any comments, Bob Smith, Albany, NY Just got back from a 737 trip to Grand = Cayman.........what a great place!! 90 deg and sunshine. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C06465.970474A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 01:31:23 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: KR2 ventilation Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C064A4.67DE2600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit From: Serge VIDAL Johannesburg – South Africa svidal@icon.co.za Dear Adventurous Netters, I am pleased to announce that I became, one week ago, the proud owner of a KR2, bought in flyable condition from the previous owner/builder (Registration: ZS-WEC). It is beautifully built, and quite frankly, most of the improvement work I am busy doing is unnecessary. Except for the ventilation. The previous owner added a small home-made aluminum air vent on the passenger side, just aft of the instrument panel, and used a piece of string to maintain the key flap open on the pilot side during flight. The effect on me is dizziness after half an hour of flight (Maybe I should check the CO2 story too). To improve the ventilation, I bought a pair of adjustable NACA air scoops from Aircraft Spruce (page 481 of the catalogue). I intend to fit them on the side panels, slightly aft and below the instrument panel. These scoops are meant to be mounted flush with the fuselage, and have a bonding edge of half an inch, recessed by 1/16". Questions: 1) Is it safe to put scoops there? 2) How thick is the fiberglass skin, and how thick is the plywood? 3) Considering the recess, will I have to bond the scoops to the fiberglass, or to the plywood? 4) These scoops are made of molded plastic. How do I bond them to the fuselage skin? 5) Can I cover the edge with plywood, to secure the scoop in place? If so, how do I bond the plastic to the plywood cover, and the plywood cover to the plywood panel? Tips welcome. Serge VIDAL ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C064A4.67DE2600-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 18:42:03 -0800 To: From: "Bob Smith" Subject: bambi style canopy hinge Message-ID: <002e01c064ae$4a15be80$ed941918@nycap.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C0646B.3892D8C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have been also considering the French plane "Bambi" style canopy = arrangement where the canopy frame extends forward about half way to the = firewall and strongly hinged at the left and right on top of the = longerons. This seems very strong and stable. This design seems to require that the hinge point be about 1/2 the = distance from the frame to the firewall so the canopy can open. It also = seems to require a 6 to 8 inch metal extension at the leading edge of = the canopy frame rails to reach the hinge. I come up with 3 possible arrangements of where the hinge sits on the = longeron: 1) extension near outside edge of longeron 2)extension at = middle of longeron 3) extension inside the longeron. Each of these possibilities presents a unique set of problems.=20 1 - weathertight seal presents a problem 2 - cant open beyond 15 degrees or you hit the deck glass 3 - Requires VW type extension to clear the deck glass (weaker design) & = invades fuel tank area So I havent come up with anything I like. Anyone have any suggestions? = I look real stupid staring at the canopy leading edge for hours and = hours. Bob Smith, Albany, NY ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C0646B.3892D8C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 13:01:26 -0800 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Ailerons Message-ID: <001d01c06547$de788e60$9fcb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C06504.CD312B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters, Before you install the aileron hinges make sure you have glassed the = 1/4" aileron & wing hinge mount spars. The guy that started my 2S didn't = put it in & I didn't catch it, now I have to remove the hinges (some of = the nuts turn behind the 1/4" spars) remove the 1/4"spars, glass the = wing & aileron spars, reassemble, fill & paint. All this to stay alive. = I noticed this problem when I installed the push rods to the aileron = horns, the skin over the horn area was separating from the aileron spar = for about 6". Before I started filling the a/c I was suspicious of the = horn mount, even read the construction manual but didn't pick up on the = problem. Even the precover inspector didn't notice it.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C06504.CD312B00-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************