From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 29 Dec 2000 01:14:45 -0000 Issue 145 Date: Thursday, December 28, 2000 5:16 PM krnet Digest 29 Dec 2000 01:14:45 -0000 Issue 145 Topics (messages 3414 through 3436): Plywood/Foam 3414 by: Carlton Blandford 3415 by: Edwin Blocher 3420 by: Albert Pecoraro 3434 by: Brian Vasseur Gray Wolf KR Club? 3416 by: Mark Langford 3417 by: Edwin Blocher Re: Revmaster 3418 by: Cleo Greenhaw Re: what if (Fiberglass panels & foam) 3419 by: Ross Youngblood Icom headset adapter 3421 by: Oscar Zuniga Hej friends 3422 by: Mogens Mølhede Pedersen 3435 by: Brian Vasseur Revemaster Aviation 3423 by: Robert Stone 3428 by: Albert Pecoraro 3430 by: Robert Stone 3431 by: Patricia Burger Building Tips 3424 by: Peter Johnson Blocking Inside the Stations 3425 by: Peter Johnson 3429 by: Mark Jones Rolling and Tipping 3426 by: Peter Johnson Revmaster Horsepower 3427 by: Peter Johnson Builder of my KR-2 3432 by: rfarmer fuel cell info 3433 by: Mark Langford Re: krnet Digest 27 Dec 2000 21:18:46 -0000 Issue 144 3436 by: gayle culph Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 23:30:10 +0000 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Carlton Blandford Subject: Plywood/Foam Message-id: <005001c06f93$df72eb20$88df1ec4@genesis2> ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C06F93.C9D79B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings Chaps, What are your views on using 1mm plywood skins on the wings and tail = surfaces. 6oz cloth would be used to seal and add additional strength = to the 1mm ply. Has any one done this?=20 Foam and glass is lighter (if no fillers are used) but ply gives a = better finish and is less labour intensive.=20 Also, no bubbles =20 Regards Carlton=20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C06F93.C9D79B80-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 18:21:48 -0600 To: "Carlton Blandford" , From: "Edwin Blocher" Subject: Re: KR> Plywood/Foam Message-ID: <001301c07064$2ca623a0$7ee579a5@computer> It seems to me that plywood skins would be very, very labour intensive and then you are still going to glass them? Look at Jim Faughn's wings or Mark Langfords and ask them if it would save time to do the ply and then glass. You can use Jim's for a mirror if you need to shave on the ramp. Ed Blocher Moody, Alabama kr-n899eb@mindspring.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Carlton Blandford To: Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 5:30 PM Subject: KR> Plywood/Foam Greetings Chaps, What are your views on using 1mm plywood skins on the wings and tail surfaces. 6oz cloth would be used to seal and add additional strength to the 1mm ply. Has any one done this? Foam and glass is lighter (if no fillers are used) but ply gives a better finish and is less labour intensive. Also, no bubbles Regards Carlton ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 22:13:31 -0500 To: From: "Albert Pecoraro" Subject: Re: KR> Plywood/Foam Message-ID: <003801c0707c$297eb800$dcd1b23f@steelcase.com> <<>> Carlton, In my opinion (and it's only an opinion! ;-) : if you really want to use plywood for wing-skins, I would contact someone who has built a GP-4 or a Falco. You will most likely have to build a set of intermediate ribs to take the loads and support the plywood. Since the KR wing is tapered and has washout, you would have to incorporate the chord length and washout into each rib (depending on its position along the spar). This is definitely not a section of the plane where you can say "That looks about right ..." Another option might be to see if the GP-4 or Falco wings (or whatever aircraft you have in mind) could be adapted to a KR. Write the company and see if they will sell you the wing plans. I think the GP-4 uses plywood skins that are then covered in shrink-wrap. I don't know about the Falco. Just to give you an idea of what the Falco uses for wing-ribs, go to this link: http://www.seqair.com/Kits/Kit205/Kit205.html To get an idea of the work involved to build a Falco wing (or a wing that needs to be skinned with plywood), go to this link (the craftmanship is phenomenal!): http://www.seqair.com/Hangar/Bellodi/Wing/Wing.html I appreciate the beauty of the Falco design, but I'll take the Rand-Robinson approach for its simplicity and ease of construction. Regards, Albert Pecoraro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 17:58:12 -0700 To: "Albert Pecoraro" , From: "Brian Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> Plywood/Foam Message-ID: <022401c07132$6b227e20$2c45e4cf@C5477> I've seen the GP4 spar, the wing is quite different than the KR so it's not transplantable but it would show you what's required to build that kind of wing. Brian ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Pecoraro" To: Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 8:13 PM Subject: Re: KR> Plywood/Foam > << on the wings and tail surfaces. 6oz cloth would be used to seal and add > additional strength to the 1mm ply. Has any one done this?>>> > > Carlton, > > In my opinion (and it's only an opinion! ;-) : if you really want to use > plywood for wing-skins, I would contact someone who has built a GP-4 or a > Falco. You will most likely have to build a set of intermediate ribs to take > the loads and support the plywood. Since the KR wing is tapered and has > washout, you would have to incorporate the chord length and washout into > each rib (depending on its position along the spar). This is definitely not > a section of the plane where you can say "That looks about right ..." > > Another option might be to see if the GP-4 or Falco wings (or whatever > aircraft you have in mind) could be adapted to a KR. Write the company and > see if they will sell you the wing plans. > > I think the GP-4 uses plywood skins that are then covered in shrink-wrap. I > don't know about the Falco. > > Just to give you an idea of what the Falco uses for wing-ribs, go to this > link: > > http://www.seqair.com/Kits/Kit205/Kit205.html > > To get an idea of the work involved to build a Falco wing (or a wing that > needs to be skinned with plywood), go to this link (the craftmanship is > phenomenal!): > > http://www.seqair.com/Hangar/Bellodi/Wing/Wing.html > > I appreciate the beauty of the Falco design, but I'll take the Rand-Robinson > approach for its simplicity and ease of construction. > > Regards, > > Albert Pecoraro > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 19:45:18 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Gray Wolf KR Club? Message-ID: <053601c0706f$d524bf90$561cf618@600athlon> Sorry to bother everybody with this, but there are three guys in Prattville, Alabama building a KR or two (I forget), and I don't remember any names at the moment (but I'd recognize you if I saw you, at least). I just got an email from a potential new KR builder in Prattville, and was wondering if you three would show him your work? Contact me offline, if you would. Thanks a lot, Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 19:50:16 -0600 To: "Mark Langford" , From: "Edwin Blocher" Subject: Re: KR> Gray Wolf KR Club? Message-ID: <002701c07070$88199580$7ee579a5@computer> I think they called them seves the two old guys or something like that. I'd like to contact them too. Ed Blocher Moody, Alabama kr-n899eb@mindspring.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Langford To: Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 7:45 PM Subject: KR> Gray Wolf KR Club? > Sorry to bother everybody with this, but there are three guys in Prattville, > Alabama building a KR or two (I forget), and I don't remember any names at > the moment (but I'd recognize you if I saw you, at least). I just got an > email from a potential new KR builder in Prattville, and was wondering if > you three would show him your work? Contact me offline, if you would. > > Thanks a lot, > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 20:09:52 -0600 To: From: "Cleo Greenhaw" Subject: Fw: Revmaster Message-ID: <001601c07073$446fc720$5c6a67ce@cleogree> ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C07040.F8D99200 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Cleo Greenhaw=20 To:=20 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2000 8:05 PM Subject: Revmaster Fellow netters: I am nearing completion of all componets and final = assemble. A question and please, an answer. I have a 2100D Revemaster = with turbo. Could anyone give me the apprx. horse power of this thing. = With and without turbo. Thanks a bunch. Cleo@fullnet.net=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C07040.F8D99200-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 19:42:55 -0700 To: jodybalkema@uswest.net From: Ross Youngblood CC: Robert , krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> what if (Fiberglass panels & foam) Message-ID: <3A4AA8AF.9725B6A8@teleport.com> Jody, Hmmm... I think the term is more like deformation point and yield point or yield strength rather than safe use point or breaking point, but I dropped my strength of materials class in college so the stuff didn't stick in my brain. There have been some discussions of the KR strength in the past, but I'm not sure how much is available via the archives. Along with this has been a discussion of normal catagory vs utility catagory specificationss for FAA Standard Airworthyness aircraft. From what I recall from the threads, you should'nt consider pulling lots of G's in your KR. If you are concerned about the difference between maximum destructive G's and yield strength then you better plan on doing some static weight testing of your KR. 7 G's on the wing would be around 3,000 pounds of sand distributed along the wing, and I can't guess how much on the tail surfaces... say 300-500 or more, and you might break your handiwork trying to get the distribution of the weight just right. I would be more concerned about balancing control surfaces if you plan on going 200mph, before I would consider pulling 4-5 g's. Myself, I'd probably black out around 5-6. I've done 3 g's in a bi-plane that was no problem.. so who knows. -- Ross jodybalkema@uswest.net wrote: > My KR2S plans (which i also just got about a week ago ) on page #6 Titled > "Introduction" the last sentence of paragraph #1 reads as fallows: "Design > stress loading is + 7 g's at 800 lbs gross and redline is 200 mph indicated." As > to which they are referring safe use point or breaking point????? your plans > should say some thing similar about the same place in the intro. would be my > guess. Since the KR1 is the parent so to speak and the construction is supposed > to be the same just smaller, I would guess in the + 6 or even the + 7 as with > the KR2S. Just my own thoughts on the question. > > Looking forward to building mine, > Mr. Jody Balkema > > Robert wrote: > > > KRNetters, > > > > Has anyone tested the process of a fiberglass/foam/fiberglass sandwich VS > > the standard plywood/fiberglass? Would there be a weight gain of the two > > skins of fiberglass over a foam core, the foam being placed in between all > > the spaces of the framework of the KR fuselage? Would the extra time > > involved be worth the strength increase/weight loss if it works out that > > way? And mostly, would anything different then the standard way of building > > the KR increase the G rating or lessen the drag signifently enough to > > warrant the time increase it takes to build a KR? > > > > I received my KR1 plans with the B supplement yesterday and I'm very > > pleased. Does anyone know the G rating of the KR1? Also, please allow me > > to know if the G rating you'll tell me is the breaking point or the safe use > > point. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Robert > > > > PS Do you guys know how to "cut" and paste with the emphasis on the cutting > > part? It's not the great to have to go over what's already been read for no > > reason. > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 13:48:25 To: corvaircraft@usm.edu, krnet@mailinglists.org, sqrlnet@egroups.com From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: Icom headset adapter Message-ID: I have an Icom IC-A4 Sport and am looking for a headset adapter for it. Anybody have one they would care to sell? (Yes, I know I could build one myself- but don't have time at the moment). Email me privately. Thanks, and Happy New Year to all! Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 17:58:14 +0100 To: "krnet" From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mogens_M=F8lhede_Pedersen?=" Subject: Hej friends Message-ID: <002901c070ef$5edcd7c0$0831f9c3@main> I live in Denmark I have testloaded my KR-2 with sandbags look at:: home13.inet.tele.dk/oyrv6a I used 2 layers of glass on wingpanels , and the bend down at the tips = was app. 4 " gross 980 pounds x 3.8 g. I dont think it would withstand 7 g=B4s. ? regards Mogens ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 18:01:11 -0700 To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mogens_M=F8lhede_Pedersen?= , "krnet" From: "Brian Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> Hej friends Message-ID: <022c01c07132$d6079ae0$2c45e4cf@C5477> From reading all the newsletters I think the 7g's was at 800 gross not 980. It might take more but it's not worth breaking the airplane to find out for sure. Brian ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mogens Mølhede Pedersen" To: "krnet" Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2000 9:58 AM Subject: KR> Hej friends > I live in Denmark I have testloaded my KR-2 with sandbags look at:: > home13.inet.tele.dk/oyrv6a > I used 2 layers of glass on wingpanels , and the bend down at the tips was app. 4 " > gross 980 pounds x 3.8 g. > I dont think it would withstand 7 g´s. ? > regards Mogens > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 11:24:48 -0600 To: "KRNet" From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Revemaster Aviation Message-ID: <000a01c070f3$14bd7ba0$0101a8c0@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C070C0.C959A120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Members: There used to be a business in California called Revemaster = Aviation. It was owned and operated be Joe Horvath and produced VW = engines converted for use in small sport aircraft such as the Kr's. = Does any one know if they are still is business and if so what is their = E-Mail address ? =20 Bob Stone rlspjs@dashlink.com ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C070C0.C959A120-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 15:28:34 -0500 To: "kr2s group" From: "Albert Pecoraro" Subject: Re: KR> Revemaster Aviation Message-ID: <000c01c0710c$c145d7a0$8ed1b23f@steelcase.com> <>> Bob, Try this link for starters: http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/rev.html It is from Mike Mims' site and has Revmaster's address. I don't know if they have an email address. Albert ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 15:38:06 -0600 To: "KRNet" From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Revemaster Aviation Message-ID: <002701c07116$77d76d40$0101a8c0@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C070E4.2C6BF1A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Members: I got almost 20 answers to my question concerning Revemaster. = Thanks all of you who responded. I will look at all of the web sites = that were suggested. =20 Bob Stone ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C070E4.2C6BF1A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 14:22:17 -0800 To: "Robert Stone" , "KRNet" From: "Patricia Burger" Subject: Re: KR> Revemaster Aviation Message-ID: <005001c0711c$a43c1d80$e83d19d0@default> Hello Bob You can reach Revmaster @ Tele: 760-244-3074 Fax: 760-244-4983 P O Box 402077 , Hesperia, Ca.92345 They are located on the Hesperia Airport. Good Luck Bill ====== Pat & Bill Burger ====== Roseville, California pbburger@inreach.com -----Original Message----- From: Robert Stone To: KRNet Date: Thursday, December 28, 2000 9:25 AM Subject: KR> Revemaster Aviation Members: There used to be a business in California called Revemaster Aviation. It was owned and operated be Joe Horvath and produced VW engines converted for use in small sport aircraft such as the Kr's. Does any one know if they are still is business and if so what is their E-Mail address ? Bob Stone rlspjs@dashlink.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 13:09:16 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Building Tips Message-ID: <001201c0711c$f0be4c00$1ba5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C070CF.61CADD80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello everyone, I hope everyone had a good Christmas. Continuing along = with my 'learned lessons', here are a couple more hints that I hope will = help someone else who may be starting out. In point form.... When putting the bevel on the end of plywood prior to scarfing, (I use a = small 'palm plane' and finish off with some 40G on a block), mark the = edge of the ply with jiffy marker. As the edge comes down the black = marker remains visible and you can really tell when you've got the edge = of the ply razor thin. Be careful using jiffy marker or other ink markers on wood. In my = experiences I have seen epoxy flow off some inks like water off = silicone! Prior to plaining the upper longitudinals down flat, run a heavy pencil = line along the outside upper edge of the spruce. Use that pencil line = as a 'visual gauge' to prevent you from removing to much material. When laying up the spars, make sure the faces of the spar caps are in = plane with each other. This would be an easy mistake to make in light = of how many clamps you will use. I just layed a short, straight piece = of wood across the two spar caps and used heavier 1x2 and more clamps to = bring the faces back in plane. When cutting the spar caps, and laying them up to be glued, be aware = that there are TWO DIFFERENT SIDES TO BE MADE! Lay all your spar caps = out together as you are marking them, and mark them left/right. = upper/lower, this will help ensure you don't make two left panels for = example. (No, I didn't learn this from THIS experience, this is = something I learned from a long ago experience!) There has been lots of discussion about how to plumb the rudder spar = when pulling the fuse sides together. Here's a fun idea! Don't worry = about it! Install the rudder spar as the full 2" wide blank. After all = is said and done, it would be easy to just tip the 'boat' bow down 7 = degrees, level it laterally with a water level, hang a plumb bob down = the rudder spar, mark and cut to fit. Perfect! Everything I have ever read about mixing epoxy says to use a sharp stick = in a can. The next thing intoned is to mix the epoxy thoroughly. Think = about this, a sharp stick in a can! Nope, doesn't work for me! I use = paper bowls from the grocery store, the ones that are 'microwave safe', = they are tough and have smooth corners and wide bottoms. This is good = because the smooth corners allow complete access to all the epoxy while = mixing, and the wide bottom helps reduce the chance of exotherming. If = you've never cooked a pot of epoxy off before, try it sometime, under = controlled conditions! I use cheap, PLASTIC spatulas to mix with. The = plastic doesn't absorb epoxy like rubber does and they can be used again = and again. I leave the epoxy on thick on the spatula and when it cures, = just 'snap' it off. =20 mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01C070CF.61CADD80-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 13:11:19 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Blocking Inside the Stations Message-ID: <001301c0711c$f2acae80$1ba5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C070CF.AB3089C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is anyone installing gusset blocks on the inside corners of each = station? The plans don't show any, but it makes sense doesn't it? =20 I would love to hear from 'Those Who Have Gone Before' Thanks mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C070CF.AB3089C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 15:32:56 -0600 To: Peter Johnson From: Mark Jones CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Blocking Inside the Stations Message-ID: <3A4BB187.E3AAFA14@execpc.com> Peter, Build smart and place gusset blocks in every corner. On your cross braces of the top longerons, it is advisable to laminate some 3/32 plywood over the gusset blocks to increase the strength at these points. This is not in the plans either. You can see them on my web site. http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage Peter Johnson wrote: > Is anyone installing gusset blocks on the inside corners of each station? The plans don't show any, but it makes sense doesn't it? -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 13:40:56 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Rolling and Tipping Message-ID: <001401c0711c$f4de3480$1ba5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C070D3.CDF88300 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have been negligent with my description of 'Rolling and Tipping' as a = good way to finish your plane, here goes... The first thing I talked about was surface preparation, making the = surface both FLAT and SMOOTH. Once you've done that, the next thing = will be to make the airplane and the shop area ready for painting. = Daunting somewhat isn't it?! After making so much dust it seems easier = to just move the plane somewhere else and paint it there! Here's what I've been doing for years to paint in 'dirty surroundings, = it works and is easy to do. First, you do have to clean the shop us somewhat, even if you just = vacuum really well, something has to be done to get the worst of the = loose stuff out of the way. Next, make a 'paint booth' for yourself. Use cheap plastic from the = hardware store and a stapler. Wrap the plastic across the ceiling and = all around the plane leaving an overlapping area that you will use as = access to the booth. If it is better for you, hang the plastic from the = ceiling and down over your benches etc. When you are going to paint, = crank the heat up in the shop to 80 or so prior to going in. (You can = tell where I live!). When you enter the shop again to begin painting, = turn the heat down, this will reduce the amount of air and dust movement = around your plane. Now, the only way to get dust out of the air is to use water. I use a 2 = gal 'pump up' kind of sprayer and spray EVERYTHING inside the booth with = a mist of water prior to painting including the airplane. With the heat = up the water dries quickly, and tacking everything down prior to = painting highlights any remaining water drops which you wipe up. Put on = freshly washed shop clothes prior to entering the shop, make sure the = sleaves are not loose and hanging down. Tack everything in a = methodical, slow process, you don't want to miss any areas. The next thing to do is get your paint supplies ready. If you are = spraying, you will know what you need to do, (I've never sprayed a big = project before. The little KR is a perfect size to paint using by = rolling and tipping). We use a handy TV table on rollers to put our = paint, paint supplies, tack rags, etc on. It is really handy in that it = keeps the paint tray at a level that you can reach, it pushes easily = with your knee, keeps everything handy, and of course if frees your = hands up! To roll and tip, you will need good bristle brushes that have been = cleaned out!, or just foam brushes. I have had good luck using both. = If I use a brush, I use an expensive brush, and it hurts to throw them = out afterwards, I won't reuse a bristle brush, it just isn't worth the = risk of getting particles in the finish. Foamies are a little harder to = work with, but they do offer better 'control'. Use a wide brush, if you = can get 6" brushes, good! Have some smaller ones on hand on the tray = too, you will need those in small, cornered areas. You will need a container with a rod across the opening. I use liter = size plastic yogurt containers with 1/4" dia rod pushed through across = the top, you get the idea... Ok, so here we are ready to paint. For those of you who have not rolled = or tipped before, I would suggest practising on a piece of masonite or = similar. 'Rolling and Tipping' is not something that can 'just be = done', the technique does have to be learned. Before even opening a can = of paint, go through a series of 'dry runs'. Try to think of ever = eventuallity that may occur while you are working, and come up with a = good routine and process to use. Sorry this note has gone on so long. Now that 'Preparation' is = finished, I will send this off. I will get to the actual application = technique next and a discussion of paints and fillers in my next = missive. Happy building everyone, and a good New Year...!!!! mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C070D3.CDF88300-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 14:23:46 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Revmaster Horsepower Message-ID: <001501c0711c$f6c4f5e0$1ba5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C070D9.CA372680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Cleo, I waded through my approx 6" of engine info and found the = revmaster HP info you were looking for. The 2100-D Turbo ratings are as = follows: Max HP 80 @ 3200 rpm Max Continuous 70 @ 3200 and 32" Hg 5 min. take-off hp 80 @3200 and 36" Hg The 2100-D N/A ratings are as follows: Max HP 75 @ 3200 Max Continuous 65 @ 3200 5 min. take-off hp 75 @3200 This info is from about 3 years ago. Hope it helps, if you want, I = could photo copy all of what I have and mail it to you. Let me know. mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C070D9.CA372680-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 17:32:11 -0500 To: From: "rfarmer" Subject: Builder of my KR-2 Message-ID: <004401c0711e$061a0520$534462d8@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C070F4.1C69C9C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I bouught a KR-2 project that was started by Jerry Johnson of Petersburg = IN. Does anyone know Mr. Johnson or anything about this project. Thanks Bob Farmer rfarmer@naxs.net ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C070F4.1C69C9C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 17:02:57 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: fuel cell info Message-ID: <02de01c07122$519db290$561cf618@600athlon> Miraculously, I remembered to scan the page from the Summit Racing catalog, which is at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/fuel_cell.jpg . Sorry about the 175k file size, but it's a big page! I'll bet auto fuel won't present a problem with these things either. I may end up with one of these polyethylene critters behind my seat later on, IF I find I can stand more than 3 hours in my KR without escaping. I think I'm going to have to order some of those 5 gallon fuel jugs, myself. Easy to manuever and more efficient to store. If you decide to order something you can either call 1-800-230-3030 or visit http://www.summitracing.com/ . Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 12:09:37 -0800 To: , From: "gayle culph" Subject: Re: krnet Digest 27 Dec 2000 21:18:46 -0000 Issue 144 Message-ID: <001b01c071d4$0db5d640$89833dca@first> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 1:18 PM Subject: krnet Digest 27 Dec 2000 21:18:46 -0000 Issue 144 > krnet Digest 27 Dec 2000 21:18:46 -0000 Issue 144 > > Topics (messages 3397 through 3413): > > Wing fuel tanks?? PVC?? > 3397 by: William Tabbert > 3399 by: Mark Langford > > Turtle deck? > 3398 by: Jack Coranz > 3400 by: Donald Reid > > what if > 3401 by: x x > > Boat Section > 3402 by: KMcKen.aol.com > 3403 by: Brian Vasseur > > Turbo setup for sale. > 3404 by: Christine Coolidge > > Re: what if (Fiberglass panels) > 3405 by: Tracy & Carol O'Brien > 3408 by: Ross Youngblood > > delete > 3406 by: vincent chrisovergis > 3407 by: Livingstone, Danny (DJ) > > Re: what if (Fiberglass panels & foam) > 3409 by: Robert > 3410 by: jodybalkema.uswest.net > 3411 by: Marty Hammersmith > 3412 by: Frank Ross > > Plywood/Foam > 3413 by: Carlton Blandford > > Administrivia: > > To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: > > > To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: > > > To post to the list, e-mail: > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 12:03:34 -0000 > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > From: "William Tabbert" > Subject: Wing fuel tanks?? PVC?? > Message-ID: > > Hi I hope everybody had a nice holiday!! Has anybody ever heard of using a > few pieces of 4" PVC for a wing fuel tank..?? Some where along the line I > have heard of it...any comments? > > Thanks, > Bill Tabbert > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 07:52:10 -0600 > To: > From: "Mark Langford" > Subject: Re: KR> Wing fuel tanks?? PVC?? > Message-ID: <001901c06f43$0c1cf450$610fa58c@tbe.com> > > Bill wrote: > > > Hi I hope everybody had a nice holiday!! Has anybody ever heard of using a > > few pieces of 4" PVC for a wing fuel tank..?? > > Although I don't really think of PVC pipe as being fuel resistant, I CAN > tell you that a 6 foot long piece of 4" pipe would only hold 3.5 gallons of > fuel, so it would hardly seem to be worth the effort. Aluminum tubing would > work though, and you could use 5" behind the spar (right on the CG) to get 6 > gallons per side. I know of several folks who've used it and are happy with > it. I wouldn't be that tough to use thin wall 6" tubing and squash it out > flatter toward the tip, and hold even more. The fuel sloshing back and > forth from one end of the wing to other would feel disconcerting, to say the > least, but you could pack it with safety foam to slow it down. It takes up > an amazingly small amount of available volume. > > After looking at the fuel cells in the recent Summit Racing catalog( > http://www.summitracing.com/ ), I'd say spending $100-$200 for a 15 gallon > fuel cell to put behind the seat would be a very attractive option. As the > fuel burns off the cg moves forward, so the plane is very stable when it > comes time to land. And if you also had a forward deck header tank, you > could keep your cg in the same place all the time with a little effort. But > now you have fuel in the cockpit, but it's probably already there, just in > front of your rather than behind you. Summit has several plastic and > aluminum fuel cells for reasonable prices, as well safety foam and seat > belts. Order one of their catalogs from their web site. It's full of good > stuff... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 13:37:05 -0000 > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > From: "Jack Coranz" > Subject: Turtle deck? > Message-ID: > > I have layed up the outside and the inside of my turtle deck with one layer > of cloth. Do you guys recomend a second layer on the outside before > smoothing??? > > Still building, > Jack > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 11:13:40 -0500 > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > From: Donald Reid > Subject: Re: KR> Turtle deck? > Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.0.20001226110613.009fb0a0@pop.erols.com> > > --=====================_2521359==_.ALT > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > At 01:37 PM 12/26/2000 +0000, Jack Coranz wrote: > >I have layed up the outside and the inside of my turtle deck with one > >layer of cloth. Do you guys recomend a second layer on the outside before > >smoothing??? > > The single layer of glass is strong enough for the air loading that the > turtleback will see in flight, but it is not very tough to protect against > accidents on the ground. It is pretty easy to drop something on one ply of > glass and punch a hole in it or sand though it during the finishing process. > > If you add a second ply while you are doing the layup, there is a very > minimal weight gain since you don't need to add very much extra > resin. Adding a second ply after the original has cured will be more weight. > > Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com > Bumpass, Va > > KR2XL construction at http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm > Ultralights at http://users.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html > > --=====================_2521359==_.ALT-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 17:53:07 -0500 > To: > From: "x x" > Subject: what if > Message-ID: <001a01c06f8e$9e4a9120$6d4c2526@earthlink.net> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C06F64.B40345E0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > has any one tried to use glass instead of plywood on the boat section, = > instead of ply wood > > Greg bikestop1@earthlink.net =20 > > ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C06F64.B40345E0-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 18:06:43 EST > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > From: KMcKen@aol.com > Subject: Boat Section > Message-ID: <5c.50f9300.277a7e83@aol.com> > > --part1_5c.50f9300.277a7e83_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Hi everyone and Happy Holidays. I am considering the KR2S, and have been > researching it for a couple of years. I have some knowledge of the basic > structure. Having built several RC Planes, I was just wondering if there > would be any way that one could cut the sides from ply, scarf the joints and > use bulkheads instead of building the boat in the normal manner. I do not > have the plans as of yet, but I was wondering if someone could help me with a > few dimensions. Horizontal area, Tail Area, washout, dihedral, wing span and > wing area. I have a design program and just want to input some numbers and > see what happens. Any help is greatly appreciated. > > Keith McKenzie > Ft. Myers, FL. > > --part1_5c.50f9300.277a7e83_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 16:36:11 -0700 > To: , > From: "Brian Vasseur" > Subject: Re: KR> Boat Section > Message-ID: <006d01c06f94$a17f6ea0$2c45e4cf@C5477> > > >From the number of bulkheads you'd need to build and because of how the > spars join you'd add probably 50 pounds of weight doing it this way. One of > the benefits to the way it's built currently is that the crossmembers > distribute stress points more effectively for less weight than any other > method. > > I built a VP1 which uses bulkheads at some places and it's definitely not > the way to build an airplane. I also built a Minimax which is built like the > KR. The minimax built faster. > > Brian > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 4:06 PM > Subject: KR> Boat Section > > > Hi everyone and Happy Holidays. I am considering the KR2S, and have been > > researching it for a couple of years. I have some knowledge of the basic > > structure. Having built several RC Planes, I was just wondering if there > > would be any way that one could cut the sides from ply, scarf the joints > and > > use bulkheads instead of building the boat in the normal manner. I do not > > have the plans as of yet, but I was wondering if someone could help me > with a > > few dimensions. Horizontal area, Tail Area, washout, dihedral, wing span > and > > wing area. I have a design program and just want to input some numbers and > > see what happens. Any help is greatly appreciated. > > > > Keith McKenzie > > Ft. Myers, FL. > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 20:36:53 -0800 > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > From: Christine Coolidge > Subject: Turbo setup for sale. > Message-ID: <20001226.203656.-822385.0.USAUS@juno.com> > > OK all, > I am over budget and out of cash on my 2S. I am selling my turbo setup so > that I can put some instruments in my panel. > > RayJay turbo, Intake, exhaust with mechanical gate. I will throw in the > remote oil cooler for the turbo as well. > > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 22:04:03 -0800 > To: "x x" , > From: Tracy & Carol O'Brien > Subject: Re: KR> what if (Fiberglass panels) > Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20001226220403.00710838@localaccess.com> > > At 05:53 PM 12/26/2000 -0500, x x wrote: > >has any one tried to use glass instead of plywood on the boat section, > instead of ply wood > > > >Greg bikestop1@earthlink.net > > Netters: > > I've been considering this question since the original article on Ol' > Ironsides was published in the November 1971 issue of Sport Aviation! In > the summer of 1972 I was involved in fabricating some panels used as wing > skins on a CA-61. > > Alex Strojnik deals with the subject starting on page 176 of "Low Power > Laminar Aircraft Technologies". (The late Dr. Strojnik also presents a > strong case for the use of fiberglass covered plywood: well worth reading > about!) > > I made up a large number of test panels in the last year to evaluate > possibilities for my current project. I made up samples with various > combinations of 4, 6 & 10 ounce cloth, 3/4 oz matt, coremat and Nexus > cloth: I have data for each of these laminates that includes thickness, > weight per square foot, and specific gravity, (expressed in pounds per > cubic inch). > > I have compared each of these laminates with both unfinished Occoume marine > plywood and the same plywood epoxy sealed on one surface and sheathed with > 4oz cloth and epoxy on the other surface. > > The "composite" panels were much less stiff for their weight than the > plywood panels. The stiffest composite laminate for its weight was made up > with 2mm coremat with 4oz faces. This panel weighed .0317 pounds per cubic > inch, but weighed .397 pounds per square foot. > > 1/8" (3mm) Occoume marine plywood with 4oz cloth and an epoxy sealed back > weighed the same per square foot as the 4oz/coremat/4oz cloth laminate but > the plywood is noticably stiffer. > > Based on my findings, I have decided on my current project to use sheathed > 3mm Occoume for the fuselage and sheathed 1.5mm Occoume for the wing top > and bottom skins and aileron skins. I will use premolded fiberglass leading > edges made up from 2 layers of 6oz cloth that has been "racked" prior to > laminating: this will involve pulling on the opposite corners of the cloth > so that the cross weave is as close to 45 degrees to the long weave as > possible. Each of the two layers will be racked in the opposite direction > to create a sort of triaxial laminate. (This laminate weighs .218 pounds > per square foot). > > The 4oz cloth used to sheathe the wing skins will be applied after the > wings are assembled and will go over the fiberglass leading edges. This > will bridge the plywood to fiberglass joint and add an additional layer of > cloth to the leading edge. > > Regards, > > Tracy O'Brien > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 06:02:33 -0700 > To: Tracy & Carol O'Brien > From: Ross Youngblood > CC: x x , krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: Re: KR> what if (Fiberglass panels) > Message-ID: <3A49E869.A62D6561@teleport.com> > > Tracy, > I met Alex Strojnik at an EAA meeting about 10 years ago here in Mesa, AZ. > He was great! He had been experimenting with the bonding properties of various > > adhesives and how they joined plexiglas to wood, and had brought several test > pieces to the meeting. I was impressed that he was always thinking of new > ideas. > > As I recall he lived in Tempe, and had built a very small airplane, and a > sailplane > which appeared in Soaring and Sport Aviation magazines. I'd like to know more > about what he had to say about glass over plywood. > > -- Ross > > Tracy & Carol O'Brien wrote: > > > At 05:53 PM 12/26/2000 -0500, x x wrote: > > >has any one tried to use glass instead of plywood on the boat section, > > instead of ply wood > > > > > >Greg bikestop1@earthlink.net > > > > Netters: > > > > I've been considering this question since the original article on Ol' > > Ironsides was published in the November 1971 issue of Sport Aviation! In > > the summer of 1972 I was involved in fabricating some panels used as wing > > skins on a CA-61. > > > > Alex Strojnik deals with the subject starting on page 176 of "Low Power > > Laminar Aircraft Technologies". (The late Dr. Strojnik also presents a > > strong case for the use of fiberglass covered plywood: well worth reading > > about!) > > > > I made up a large number of test panels in the last year to evaluate > > possibilities for my current project. I made up samples with various > > combinations of 4, 6 & 10 ounce cloth, 3/4 oz matt, coremat and Nexus > > cloth: I have data for each of these laminates that includes thickness, > > weight per square foot, and specific gravity, (expressed in pounds per > > cubic inch). > > > > I have compared each of these laminates with both unfinished Occoume marine > > plywood and the same plywood epoxy sealed on one surface and sheathed with > > 4oz cloth and epoxy on the other surface. > > > > The "composite" panels were much less stiff for their weight than the > > plywood panels. The stiffest composite laminate for its weight was made up > > with 2mm coremat with 4oz faces. This panel weighed .0317 pounds per cubic > > inch, but weighed .397 pounds per square foot. > > > > 1/8" (3mm) Occoume marine plywood with 4oz cloth and an epoxy sealed back > > weighed the same per square foot as the 4oz/coremat/4oz cloth laminate but > > the plywood is noticably stiffer. > > > > Based on my findings, I have decided on my current project to use sheathed > > 3mm Occoume for the fuselage and sheathed 1.5mm Occoume for the wing top > > and bottom skins and aileron skins. I will use premolded fiberglass leading > > edges made up from 2 layers of 6oz cloth that has been "racked" prior to > > laminating: this will involve pulling on the opposite corners of the cloth > > so that the cross weave is as close to 45 degrees to the long weave as > > possible. Each of the two layers will be racked in the opposite direction > > to create a sort of triaxial laminate. (This laminate weighs .218 pounds > > per square foot). > > > > The 4oz cloth used to sheathe the wing skins will be applied after the > > wings are assembled and will go over the fiberglass leading edges. This > > will bridge the plywood to fiberglass joint and add an additional layer of > > cloth to the leading edge. > > > > Regards, > > > > Tracy O'Brien > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 01:18:06 -0800 (PST) > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > From: vincent chrisovergis > Subject: delete > Message-ID: <20001227091806.13465.qmail@web6305.mail.yahoo.com> > > please will you cancell me the mailing list for the kr > group thamks. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. > http://shopping.yahoo.com/ > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:34:57 +0200 > To: 'vincent chrisovergis' , > krnet@mailinglists.org > From: "Livingstone, Danny (DJ)" > Subject: RE: KR> delete > Message-ID: > > Send a blank e-mail to the address below: > > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: vincent chrisovergis [SMTP:vincechrisovergis@yahoo.com] > > Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 11:18 AM > > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > > Subject: KR> delete > > > > please will you cancell me the mailing list for the kr > > group thamks. > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. > > http://shopping.yahoo.com/ > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ********************************************************************** > This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and > intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they > are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify > the system manager. All opinions expressed are the sender's > own and not necessarily that of the employer. > ********************************************************************** > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:28:34 -0500 > To: > From: "Robert" > Subject: Re: KR> what if (Fiberglass panels & foam) > Message-ID: <002601c07011$4bedbb40$6d84a6d0@robert> > > KRNetters, > > Has anyone tested the process of a fiberglass/foam/fiberglass sandwich VS > the standard plywood/fiberglass? Would there be a weight gain of the two > skins of fiberglass over a foam core, the foam being placed in between all > the spaces of the framework of the KR fuselage? Would the extra time > involved be worth the strength increase/weight loss if it works out that > way? And mostly, would anything different then the standard way of building > the KR increase the G rating or lessen the drag signifently enough to > warrant the time increase it takes to build a KR? > > I received my KR1 plans with the B supplement yesterday and I'm very > pleased. Does anyone know the G rating of the KR1? Also, please allow me > to know if the G rating you'll tell me is the breaking point or the safe use > point. > > Thanks, > > Robert > > PS Do you guys know how to "cut" and paste with the emphasis on the cutting > part? It's not the great to have to go over what's already been read for no > reason. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:45:17 -0800 > To: Robert > From: > CC: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: Re: KR> what if (Fiberglass panels & foam) > Message-ID: <3A4A2AAD.2D497EE5@pop.ptld.uswest.net> > > --------------A7838EBCAC164BE75F862415 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > My KR2S plans (which i also just got about a week ago ) on page #6 Titled > "Introduction" the last sentence of paragraph #1 reads as fallows: "Design > stress loading is + 7 g's at 800 lbs gross and redline is 200 mph indicated." As > to which they are referring safe use point or breaking point????? your plans > should say some thing similar about the same place in the intro. would be my > guess. Since the KR1 is the parent so to speak and the construction is supposed > to be the same just smaller, I would guess in the + 6 or even the + 7 as with > the KR2S. Just my own thoughts on the question. > > Looking forward to building mine, > Mr. Jody Balkema > > Robert wrote: > > > KRNetters, > > > > Has anyone tested the process of a fiberglass/foam/fiberglass sandwich VS > > the standard plywood/fiberglass? Would there be a weight gain of the two > > skins of fiberglass over a foam core, the foam being placed in between all > > the spaces of the framework of the KR fuselage? Would the extra time > > involved be worth the strength increase/weight loss if it works out that > > way? And mostly, would anything different then the standard way of building > > the KR increase the G rating or lessen the drag signifently enough to > > warrant the time increase it takes to build a KR? > > > > I received my KR1 plans with the B supplement yesterday and I'm very > > pleased. Does anyone know the G rating of the KR1? Also, please allow me > > to know if the G rating you'll tell me is the breaking point or the safe use > > point. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Robert > > > > PS Do you guys know how to "cut" and paste with the emphasis on the cutting > > part? It's not the great to have to go over what's already been read for no > > reason. > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > --------------A7838EBCAC164BE75F862415-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 13:27:29 -0500 > To: jodybalkema@uswest.net > From: Marty Hammersmith > CC: Robert , krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: Re: KR> what if (Fiberglass panels & foam) > Message-ID: <3A4A3491.4096FC0F@worldnet.att.net> > > "Design limit" is a usable number I believe. When they say "ultimate > load" they are usually talking 50% greater than "design limit". Loading > to or near "ultimate" is not somewhere you want to be! > > jodybalkema@uswest.net wrote: > > > > My KR2S plans (which i also just got about a week ago ) on page #6 Titled > > "Introduction" the last sentence of paragraph #1 reads as fallows: "Design > > stress loading is + 7 g's at 800 lbs gross and redline is 200 mph indicated." As > > to which they are referring safe use point or breaking point????? your plans > > should say some thing similar about the same place in the intro. would be my > > guess. Since the KR1 is the parent so to speak and the construction is supposed > > to be the same just smaller, I would guess in the + 6 or even the + 7 as with > > the KR2S. Just my own thoughts on the question. > > > > Looking forward to building mine, > > Mr. Jody Balkema > > > > Robert wrote: > > > > > KRNetters, > > > > > > Has anyone tested the process of a fiberglass/foam/fiberglass sandwich VS > > > the standard plywood/fiberglass? Would there be a weight gain of the two > > > skins of fiberglass over a foam core, the foam being placed in between all > > > the spaces of the framework of the KR fuselage? Would the extra time > > > involved be worth the strength increase/weight loss if it works out that > > > way? And mostly, would anything different then the standard way of building > > > the KR increase the G rating or lessen the drag signifently enough to > > > warrant the time increase it takes to build a KR? > > > > > > I received my KR1 plans with the B supplement yesterday and I'm very > > > pleased. Does anyone know the G rating of the KR1? Also, please allow me > > > to know if the G rating you'll tell me is the breaking point or the safe use > > > point. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > PS Do you guys know how to "cut" and paste with the emphasis on the cutting > > > part? It's not the great to have to go over what's already been read for no > > > reason. > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > -- > Marty Hammersmith > > http://www.geocities.com/mhammersmith > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:28:01 -0800 (PST) > To: Robert , krnet@mailinglists.org > From: Frank Ross > Subject: Re: KR> what if (Fiberglass panels & foam) > Message-ID: <20001227182801.19130.qmail@web4704.mail.yahoo.com> > > Robert, > Glad you're happy with the KR-1 plans. When I got mine > I had never seen a set of plans and was real > disappointed. As I began to learn more about building > and looked at other plan sets, I grew to love the KR-1 > more and more. It is important to keep KR building in > perspective: it is an easy to build, inexpensive, easy > to fly, easy to store and transport airplane. It can > be made bigger, faster, more complex and more > expensive, as Glasair, Lancair, etc have shown. No > need for that. Hope you have a great time with your > plane. > As for the "cut and paste", be patient. New folk > coming on the net all the time. Many regular > contributors are very busy and we're just glad to get > their comments without them taking the time to edit > and correct. My favorite "pet-peeve" is folk who > advertise but don't give a name or where in THE WORLD > they are located. So who do you address your inquiry > to? I may want an engine, or landing gear, but do I > want to ship it to Texas from Idaho, or Bangladesh? > Then there's guys like me who just ramble on and on... > Welcome to the club. > > > ===== > Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. > http://shopping.yahoo.com/ > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2000 23:27:38 +0000 > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > From: Carlton Blandford > Subject: Plywood/Foam > Message-id: <004301c06f93$abfaf440$88df1ec4@genesis2> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C06F93.6F8C1160 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Greetings Chaps, > > What are your views on using 1mm plywood skins on the wings and tail = > surfaces. 6oz cloth would be used to seal and add additional strength = > to the 1mm ply. Has any one done this?=20 > > Foam and glass is lighter (if no fillers are used) but ply gives a = > better finish and is less labour intensive.=20 > > Also, no bubbles > > Regards > > Carlton=20 > > =20 > > ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C06F93.6F8C1160-- > > ------------------------------ > > End of krnet Digest > *********************************** > ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************