From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 10 Jan 2001 02:25:54 -0000 Issue 151 Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 6:26 PM krnet Digest 10 Jan 2001 02:25:54 -0000 Issue 151 Topics (messages 3557 through 3583): WIRED 3557 by: rme114.juno.com 3562 by: Mark Jones re;prop location 3558 by: rme114.juno.com 3561 by: Kr2skip.aol.com Re: Prop Location 3559 by: Kr2skip.aol.com 3560 by: Kr2skip.aol.com Re: Wing fuel line question. 3563 by: Ross Youngblood Re: build time 3564 by: Ross Youngblood 3570 by: House of Dee's Whew! some progress 3565 by: Ross Youngblood VW Priming (Procedures/Installation) 3566 by: Ross Youngblood 3568 by: Brian Vasseur Operating Handbook 3567 by: Al Friesen longest kr build time 3569 by: Guenther Bryce Props 3571 by: Kr2skip.aol.com 3574 by: David R. Christensen 3577 by: David R. Christensen Re: KR/IFR 3572 by: GARYKR2.cs.com 3579 by: KR2616TJ.aol.com Re: IFR, long. 3573 by: GARYKR2.cs.com Magnito Ignition on a KR 3575 by: Seifert, Richard E 3576 by: David R. Christensen Electronic Ignition Currect and Charging 3578 by: RONALD.FREIBERGER 3581 by: Kr2skip.aol.com Re: KR/IFR - Too Heavy ... 3580 by: jshays Panel Design Program 3582 by: Carter Pond 3583 by: KR2616TJ.aol.com Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 18:54:30 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: rme114@juno.com Subject: WIRED Message-ID: <20010107.185656.-413559.6.rme114@juno.com> I have an old Narco Com 11a. Would anyone out there have or know the wiring for it ? There are about 10 wires coming out the back, all are white and none are marked as to + , - , speaker , mike , or key. Anyone who can help, Thanx. ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 20:48:38 -0600 To: rme114@juno.com From: Mark Jones CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> WIRED Message-ID: <3A592A85.26C991CB@execpc.com> Wiring for Narco Com 11A #1 Ground #2 Mike Ground #3 Headphones #4 Mike Key #5 Speaker #6 Speaker and Headphone Ground #7 Aux Audio #8 Low Level Audio #9 Mike Audio #10 Pilot Lights 14v/28v #20awg #11 Blank #12 Blank #13 14vdc input #16awg #14 14vdc input #16awg Minimum wire size #22awg unless otherwise specified. 14V operation. Recommend 7.5 amp circuit protection device be provided between a 14 volt aircraft service buss and the unit. Narco will fax or mail you a schematic if you give them a call. Hope this helps, Mark Jones rme114@juno.com wrote: > I have an old Narco Com 11a. Would anyone out there have or know the > wiring for it ? There are about 10 wires coming out the back, all are > white and none are marked as to + , - , speaker , mike , or key. Anyone > who can help, Thanx. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 18:46:35 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: rme114@juno.com Subject: re;prop location Message-ID: <20010107.185656.-413559.5.rme114@juno.com> Maybe this is what you want. As mine is a hand -propper to start, I set the prop so that the impulse coupling of the magneto kicks at about the 2 o'clock position, that way I am pulling down and away when it fires. ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 21:01:55 EST To: rme114@juno.com, krnet@mailinglists.org (krnet) From: Kr2skip@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> re;prop location Message-ID: <9e.e73e059.278a7993@aol.com> Continental says to mount the prop so that it is 30 degrees when #1 is TDC. Skip ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:57:19 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org (krnet) From: Kr2skip@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Prop Location Message-ID: <63.101ad3e3.278a787f@aol.com> Different prop, made by Ed Sterba. It was a bit lighter that the old one. Was put on in the same location as old one. Skip ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 20:59:14 EST To: vasseurb@cadvision.com, krnet@mailinglists.org (krnet) From: Kr2skip@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Prop Location Message-ID: <55.f839dc2.278a78f2@aol.com> Ed said that it was balanced. It may be a harmonic more than a vibration as it seems better at some RPMs and worse at others. Skip ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 22:03:28 -0700 To: Brian Vasseur From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Wing fuel line question. Message-ID: <3A594A20.3285536@teleport.com> Brian, Thanks for the tip... I may have to reverse the process as my wing tank pickup points directly towards the fuselage, and I'd have to install a length of tubing to get it to point to the wingtip, but that is the idea I was missing... I will play with some tubing tomorrow night. -- Regards Ross Brian Vasseur wrote: > I used the quick connects in my Minimax without problems. My solution was to > use a 90 out of the tank pointing to the wingtip. Then the fuel line would > loop out towards the tip and then back to the wing root. This gave me slack > fuel line when I pulled the wing apart and resolved the problem with kinks. > > I don't know how much space you have to work with so this may or may not > work for you. You also want to make sure you don't leave a low spot in the > fuel line that will allow water to accumulate, you want to keep water in the > tank where it can be drained there. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ross Youngblood" > To: > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2001 1:13 AM > Subject: KR> Wing fuel line question. > > > OK KR netters... I have a question that you folks may be able to help. > > > > I have played with three different methods of connecting my wing tanks > > to the fuel line at the spar. > > > > First I used aluminum tubing, but decided it would be too difficult to > > > > rig and de-rig the wings as you would need a wrench in a tight spot, > > and you would have to drain the tanks to keep fuel from flowing > > all over everywhere. > > > > Then I discovered the quick disconnects at aircraft spruce that are > > barb type hose fittings. These work great with tygon or rubber > > fuel hose, but don't fit the surplus braided hose I have (i.d. of hose > > too big). > > > > So.. I have been using rubber automotive fuel line, which works > > great when the wings are on a dolly and the line is connected. The > > bad news is that when I mount the wings, the location of my > > hose is such that it is prone to get a kink in it. And... no fuel > > flows. > > At first I had a fuel pump priming problem, then with the wings > > jigged on boxes I verified that I have terrific fuel flow and priming > > capability if I don't jam the hose such that it folds. > > > > Now I'm thinking that my idea of flexible hose and quick disconnects > > wasn't so hot, and I should return to aluminum tubing, and a shutoff > > valve at the fuel pick up end. > > > > Any ideas... I will be playing with this over the weekend and doing > > some more fuel flow tests to check that I have no leaks in the cockpit. > > > > Thanks! > > > > By the way... I've put in two 6 hour KR building sessions in the last > > three days. > > If I keep this up, I might actually be flying this year. > > > > - Ross > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 22:08:56 -0700 To: "w.g. kirkland" From: Ross Youngblood CC: krnet Subject: Re: KR> build time Message-ID: <3A594B68.8D2A333F@teleport.com> Boy this is a real true answer... I was building as I figured I could do it or less money than buying an airplane... 11 years later, I figure if I hadn't started on the KR, I would be owning a C-172 by now. But I have a lot of nice tools now that I didn't own before. I figure I have at least $15,000 in my KR by now, of course I bought all new parts for engine, and avionics, which is a major chunk of the expense. I also think I spent lots of $$ building my own cowling, and I may go out and buy a new one anyway later this month, just to say "I'm done now". -- Ross "w.g. kirkland" wrote: > If time is of the essence don't build an airplane. > If you are building your own airplane to save money go get a job at MacDonalds you will be further ahead. > If you are building because you enjoy the challenge and the learning experience come join our happy group. You will get lots of both. > W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND > kirkland@vianet.on.ca ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 16:55:04 -0800 To: "Ross Youngblood" , "w.g. kirkland" From: "House of Dee's" Cc: "krnet" Subject: RE: KR> build time Message-ID: How much is a new Bendix/King NavCom and mode C transponder when it comes wrapped in a new Cessna 172...a hundred and how many thousands??? -----Original Message----- From: Ross Youngblood [mailto:rossy@teleport.com] Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 9:09 PM To: w.g. kirkland Cc: krnet Subject: Re: KR> build time Boy this is a real true answer... I was building as I figured I could do it or less money than buying an airplane... 11 years later, I figure if I hadn't started on the KR, I would be owning a C-172 by now. But I have a lot of nice tools now that I didn't own before. I figure I have at least $15,000 in my KR by now, of course I bought all new parts for engine, and avionics, which is a major chunk of the expense. I also think I spent lots of $$ building my own cowling, and I may go out and buy a new one anyway later this month, just to say "I'm done now". -- Ross "w.g. kirkland" wrote: > If time is of the essence don't build an airplane. > If you are building your own airplane to save money go get a job at MacDonalds you will be further ahead. > If you are building because you enjoy the challenge and the learning experience come join our happy group. You will get lots of both. > W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND > kirkland@vianet.on.ca --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 22:22:16 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Whew! some progress Message-ID: <3A594E88.F19D8A0D@teleport.com> Finally, I have cabin heat installed, but the push pull control works backwards (DOH!) (push for heat, pull for no heat). Oh well, I can re-do that later, what was I thinking? The tricky part of getting the Long-Eze carb heat box mounted and hoses running to the Ellison has been done, I still have to hook up the controls, and you can be sure I won't have the carb heat control reversed. I spent about 1-2 hours today looking for parts I purchased some time ago for the installation, but couldn't find anywhere! Ugh... the hassels of not building for months then returning to work. It really disrupts the work flow to stop and search around for stuff you ordered, then stuffed someplace. DOH! Thanks to the 'netters who gave me ideas on how to solve my hose routing problem so I don't get kinks in the line. I didn't get enough done this weekend to do fuel flow tests again. My father-in-law got a new computer, and so I the good son-in-law and computer expert get to re-fit the old computer for my sister-in-law, and install all the software. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it. My kludge heat box looks pretty good considering it would get me a 'D' in junior high metal shop. I have three flanges in a two piece assembly that clamps to the 'J' tube on the right side of the engine. One inlet takes air (hopefully under some ram pressure), and feeds both carb heat and cabin heat boxes.) This is one area where I wish we could just buy a nice setup off the shelf. I think Great Plains now has a top mount intake manifold for the VW, which is what I would go with if I had to do it over... when I bought mine, all I could get was the bottom mount, and to change the oil, you have to remove the carb or risk getting oil all over it. (Unless I come up with some clever idea). I'm trying to get all the stuff I can think of done before I trailer the KR again and drag it to the airport for some more engine tests, and possibly low speed taxi tests if all goes well. -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 22:31:30 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: VW Priming (Procedures/Installation) Message-ID: <3A5950B2.7D2284A0@teleport.com> I thought I would query the Ellison/VW flyers out there for information on priming. I hooked up my primer circuit by drilling and taping the intake manifold for one cylinder on the left, and one on the right (#1 and #3), and use a regular essex primer unit (which is a real pain to push/pull). The problem I experienced a couple of years ago (when I last tried starting the KR) is as follows. Priming with the primer would result in no start. However if I took a length of tygon tubing, and sucked some fuel from the tank then blew it into the venturi of the Ellison, the engine would start on the first crank every time. We did some more experimenting (little would I know that it would be my last chance to play at my hangar in Oregon), and discovered that eventually we had two dry cylinders in front (2 & 4) and two flooded cylinders (1&3). So now I wonder, was my problem in my priming procedure (too many or too few pumps with the primer), or should I just plug up my old primer fittings, and place a single primer fitting at the base of the carbureator plenum? Another item, my primer circuit just consists of 1/8" nipples which don't atomize the fuel, I understand real aircraft engines have primer nozzles that do this, but they are also tapped into the cylinder chamber someplace and not upstream like I have done. Any tips/ideas would be helpful.... I'm debating on making one trip out to the airport without changing anything, just to play with things to see if I can get a procedure that will result in a start on the first crank... if not, I'm not sure I want to leave the KR tied down for what may be days before I can get back to it, and trailering and re-rigging is going to be a hassle. Also, I'm not sure that moving the primer fittings will help me... since I really am just taking educated guesses at this. -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 13:24:20 -0700 To: "Ross Youngblood" , From: "Brian Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> VW Priming (Procedures/Installation) Message-ID: <001c01c079b0$fc9ee290$15367e40@ucu.com> Here's a trick that work on the Rotax. The primer output goes into the manifold just behind the carb ahead of the manifold split. You could also put it just in front of the carb. With electric start I don't push the primer in until the engine is turning, that helps vaporization, but the alternative is to try and flip the prop as fast as possible after priming before the fuel just drains down somewhere. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Youngblood" To: Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 10:31 PM Subject: KR> VW Priming (Procedures/Installation) > I thought I would query the Ellison/VW flyers out there for information > on > priming. > > I hooked up my primer circuit by drilling and taping the intake manifold > > for one cylinder on the left, and one on the right (#1 and #3), and use > a regular essex primer unit (which is a real pain to push/pull). > > The problem I experienced a couple of years ago (when I last tried > starting the KR) is as follows. Priming with the primer would result > in no start. However if I took a length of tygon tubing, and sucked > some fuel from the tank then blew it into the venturi of the Ellison, > the engine would start on the first crank every time. > > We did some more experimenting (little would I know that it would be > my last chance to play at my hangar in Oregon), and discovered that > eventually we had two dry cylinders in front (2 & 4) and two flooded > cylinders (1&3). So now I wonder, was my problem in my priming > procedure (too many or too few pumps with the primer), or should > I just plug up my old primer fittings, and place a single primer fitting > > at the base of the carbureator plenum? > > Another item, my primer circuit just consists of 1/8" nipples which > don't > atomize the fuel, I understand real aircraft engines have primer nozzles > > that do this, but they are also tapped into the cylinder chamber > someplace > and not upstream like I have done. > > Any tips/ideas would be helpful.... I'm debating on making one trip out > to the airport without changing anything, just to play with things to > see > if I can get a procedure that will result in a start on the first > crank... > if not, I'm not sure I want to leave the KR tied down for what may be > days before I can get back to it, and trailering and re-rigging is going > > to be a hassle. Also, I'm not sure that moving the primer fittings will > > help me... since I really am just taking educated guesses at this. > > -- Regards > Ross > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:46:26 -0800 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Operating Handbook Message-ID: <001201c079b4$144defa0$6ccb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C07971.03A53D40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable KR Netters I have just applied for a final inspection on my KR-2S with Revmaster = 2100D engine. I would like to know if anyone has set up an Operations = handbook for this type. I have to make one up before the inspection? Did = some more taxi tests, only snag is the oil temp gage which reads halfway = up the gage when I turn the master on, then goes off scale when warm = even though the temp of the oil is ok. The gage has a + & - lead and one = for the sending unit lead. Any help will be appreciated. = Al To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C07971.03A53D40-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:26:15 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Guenther Bryce Subject: longest kr build time Message-ID: <20010108222615.75445.qmail@web9006.mail.yahoo.com> Do any other kr builders have build time from the that exceeding 1200 hrs. My project may have the least glamour of the most time. I bought the project out of Trade-A-Plane saying 50% finished -98% material I thought fine. So I bought the project the guy said he worked on it 13 years repeat 13 YEARS so I spent another 7 years on it. The guy should of told me it was 30% done and you'll have to design alot of stuff and quit your job and have much financial dispair then have great challenges from aviation peers who think KRs are dangerous. Well poowy on those peers we know the KR is a great little plane and those spam can fliers who lack initiative and will power will just have to druel! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 21:21:00 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org (krnet) From: Kr2skip@aol.com Subject: Props Message-ID: I am looking at possibly buying another prop. I am now using a Sterber but I talked with Ray Hegy and like what he said. Would appreciate any comments from net members that have experience with these and or other props. Thanks Skip ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 07:55:02 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Props Message-ID: <001d01c07a54$874a2a00$38785ad1@davec> Skip, I am using Props Inc. propellers and am very happy with the performance and quality. Climb performance at 4300' field elevation with a 75 hp 2100D Revmaster is excellent. Full throttle cruise is up to 174 mph at 3200 rpm. Normal cruise is about 160 mph at 3000 rpm. I use the 52X48 size. They are available in mahogany which is easier on the engine in the event of a prop strike. I haven't tried the Sterba for comparisson. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Kr2skip@aol.com To: krnet Date: Monday, January 08, 2001 7:37 PM Subject: KR> Props >I am looking at possibly buying another prop. I am now using a Sterber but I >talked with Ray Hegy and like what he said. Would appreciate any comments >from net members that have experience with these and or other props. > >Thanks >Skip > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:29:40 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: Fw: KR> Props Message-ID: <002f01c07a59$5e53c480$38785ad1@davec> Rick, My high speed tests were done out over the Great Salt Lake in calm air at 5500' msl averaging upwind and downwind speeds indicated on my GPS. I have had three 52X48 Props Inc. propellers, all of which performed as I stated. I also won the Copperstate dash 75 hp and under category in 1996 at an average speed of 178 mph, standing start to flying finish with the help of a slight tailwind. I also was puzzled by the deviation from the theoretical but never attempted to get an explanation. Possibly Bill at Props Inc. could help. Dave -----Original Message----- From: EagleGator@aol.com To: davec@favorites.com Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 8:09 AM Subject: Re: Fw: KR> Props >Dave, did you confirm your airspeed with GPS or timing, or is that straight >off your airspeed indicator? The reason I ask is that a 48' pitch prop can >theoretically only deliver 136mph at 3000RPM and 145mph at 3200RPM, and that >is at 100% efficiency at sea level. If the airspeeds are verified, I'd >suspect that your prop has more pitch than what is marked on it. I'm not an >authority on props, I'm trying to figure this stuff out myself. > >Cheers, Rick Junkin > >In a message dated Tue, 9 Jan 2001 9:50:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, "David >R. Christensen" writes: > ><< Skip, >I am using Props Inc. propellers and am very happy with the performance and >quality. Climb performance at 4300' field elevation with a 75 hp 2100D >Revmaster is excellent. Full throttle cruise is up to 174 mph at 3200 rpm. >Normal cruise is about 160 mph at 3000 rpm. I use the 52X48 size. They are >available in mahogany which is easier on the engine in the event of a prop >strike. I haven't tried the Sterba for comparisson. > Dave > >-----Original Message----- >From: Kr2skip@aol.com >To: krnet >Date: Monday, January 08, 2001 7:37 PM >Subject: KR> Props > > >>I am looking at possibly buying another prop. I am now using a Sterber but >I >>talked with Ray Hegy and like what he said. Would appreciate any comments >>from net members that have experience with these and or other props. >> >>Thanks >>Skip >> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------- >>To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >>To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >>For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > >> > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 21:40:41 EST To: jeroffey@tir.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> KR/IFR Message-ID: <46.f027704.278bd429@cs.com> In a message dated 1/3/01 10:27:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, jeroffey@tir.com writes: << With that in mind and only hearing about the pitch sensitivity of the KR and the inability to trim the thing for hands off straight and level, I can understand why we are building for VFR only. >> Mine will trim to fly hands off. And I have flown my "2" IFR. And it is a great scud runner. ( Is there such a thing good scud running ? ) The lowest ceiling in the KR so far was 200ft for about 15 miles. And yes Dana, I know what you'll be thinking. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:44:08 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> KR/IFR Message-ID: <9c.a93153e.278c99d8@aol.com> In a message dated 1/8/01 9:48:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, GARYKR2@cs.com writes: << I have flown my "2" IFR. And it is a great scud runner. >> OK, guys I'm not going to get into whether I think it's safe to fly a KR in IFR but I will quote the FAR FAR Sec. 91205 Required Equipment Sub B 1 Airspeed indicator 2 Altimeter 3 Magnetic direction indicator 4 Tach 5 Oil Pressure gauge 6 Temp gauge for water cooled or oil temp for air cooled 7 Manifold pressure for each altitude engine 8 Fuel gauge 9 Landing gear indicator if retractable Sub C "Approved" position lights Adequate source of electical One spare set of fuses or three spare fuses accessible to the pilot in flight Sub D Two way communication system and nav equipment appropriate to ground facilities to be used. Gyroscopic rate of turn indicator Slip-Skid indicator Clock with hours, minutes, and seconds Generator or Alternator Gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator Gyroscopic direction indicator. 91.411 No person may operate under IFR unless in the last 24 calendar months each static pressure system, each altimeter instrument and each automatic pressure reporting system has been tested and inspecting according to Part 43 of chapter. 91.413 No person may use an ATC transponder under 91.215(a) unless the transponder has been tested and inspected 91.171 No person may operate under IFR using the VOR system unless a VOR, VOT or position check has been performed in the last 30 days with a ground error of 4 degrees or an air check error of 6 degrees. Last but not least FAR 91.173 No person may operate an aircraft under IFR unless that person has a. Filed a flight plan, and b. Received an appropriate ATC clearance. As you can see to legally fly IFR you must have an electrical system plus a vacuum system on your KR with a AH and DG. You're getting pretty darn heavy I'd say. If you have the stuff, you're legal......if not, you aren't. Mine ain't legal. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 22:01:01 EST To: rossy@teleport.com, KR2616TJ@aol.com From: GARYKR2@cs.com CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> IFR, long. Message-ID: <9c.a8e1265.278bd8ed@cs.com> In a message dated 1/4/01 2:37:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, rossy@teleport.com writes: << Would I fly my KR in IFR... probably not. What Dana says about flying IFR as a lot of work is true. During training, I was always exhausted after a flight trying to keep everything straight, that's where autopilots come in handy. >> The more you fly IFR, the less tired you will be at the end of a flight. When I flew cargo and corporate, there was no difference as to how tired I was at the end of the day (or night). The more time you get, the better it will feel. Here's a hint, always file when you go somewhere. You will find it will be easier when you get in the soup. Gary Hinkle (A/P, COM, INST, MEL) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 06:50:37 -0800 To: "'KRnet'" From: "Seifert, Richard E" Subject: Magnito Ignition on a KR Message-Id: [Seifert, Richard E] I originally posted this on the Corvaircraft group page but thought many on the KRnet may also be affected. Any way, you may want to consider this when you are shopping for a prop and ignition system for your bird. A few years ago I discovered something that some of you KR guys with magnito ignition should consider. I discovered that my KR2 like many VW powered KR's are not easy to plant on the runway. It seemed that it wanted to continue to fly in ground effect even though I had installed a barndoor sized speedbrake on the belly. After a lot of nose picking I believe I discovered why. My Props Inc prop makes a poor flywheel at less than 1/3 the weight of the original flywheel. Now a good VW engine in the car will idle at 450-500 rpm with no sweat, but when you reduce the effect of the flywheel by that much and you use a magneto set at 26 degrees BTDC, its very difficult to get it to idle at less than 900 rpm. The magneto retard only works for starting and kicks out at about 550 rpm so from then on, the engine is trying to run at full advance all the time. To compound the problem, fast VW powered home builts use props with a lot of pitch. My 56"x 56" would not quit pulling at 900 rpm. When landing on short fields or when landing down wind I found that shutting down the engine was required. For a time I experimented with a manual retard mechanism which allowed me to retard the entire magneto back to zero degree BTDC. This allowed my engine to idle at 500 rpm and allowed the windmilling prop to act as a brake slowing me down considerably. I was able to make my one and only three point landing using that method, however the retard mechanism was not a precision piece of engineering and one time after about 8 months, failed to advance when I pushed the control forward for takeoff. Luckily I was at an airport with a lot of "wide open" around and I flew the pattern in ground effect for a safe landing. I removed the retard after that and after a lot of practice can make decent landings now, but I still avoid short fields, downhill fields and downwind landings whenever possible and when not, I kill the engine on close final. My new Corvair engine will definitely have all the automatic advance range I can reliably squeeze out of it. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:16:29 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Magnito Ignition on a KR Message-ID: <002601c07a57$869aa8c0$38785ad1@davec> Warning on shutting down the engine during ground roll: My experience is that the plane has a much greater tendency to ground loop with the engine shut down, especially with an aft cg loading. I did this once on returning from Oshkosh with my camping gear stowed behind the seats when a set screw worked loose in my carburetor and the engine would not idle back enough with disasterous results. I am using a 52X48 mahogany Props Inc. propeller and can idle my 75 hp 2100D Revmaster down to 700 rpm without a problem. Full throttle cruise is up to 174 mph at 3200 rpm which is the design speed of the engine. In the beginning I had the mixture set too lean and had the engine quit while taxiing. The Revflow carburetor mixture must be adjusted per Revmaster specifications. -----Original Message----- From: Seifert, Richard E To: 'KRnet' Date: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:59 AM Subject: KR> Magnito Ignition on a KR > >[Seifert, Richard E] I originally posted this on the Corvaircraft group >page but thought many on the KRnet may also be affected. Any way, you may >want to consider this when you are shopping for a prop and ignition system >for your bird. > A few years ago I discovered something that some of you KR guys >with magnito ignition should consider. I discovered that my KR2 like many >VW powered KR's are not easy to plant on the runway. It seemed that it >wanted to continue to fly in ground effect even though I had installed a >barndoor sized speedbrake on the belly. After a lot of nose picking I >believe I discovered why. My Props Inc prop makes a poor flywheel at less >than 1/3 the weight of the original flywheel. Now a good VW engine in the >car will idle at 450-500 rpm with no sweat, but when you reduce the effect >of the flywheel by that much and you use a magneto set at 26 degrees BTDC, >its very difficult to get it to idle at less than 900 rpm. The magneto >retard only works for starting and kicks out at about 550 rpm so from then >on, the engine is trying to run at full advance all the time. To compound >the problem, fast VW powered home builts use props with a lot of pitch. My >56"x 56" would not quit pulling at 900 rpm. When landing on short fields or >when landing down wind I found that shutting down the engine was required. >For a time I experimented with a manual retard mechanism which allowed me to >retard the entire magneto back to zero degree BTDC. This allowed my engine >to idle at 500 rpm and allowed the windmilling prop to act as a brake >slowing me down considerably. I was able to make my one and only three >point landing using that method, however the retard mechanism was not a >precision piece of engineering and one time after about 8 months, failed to >advance when I pushed the control forward for takeoff. Luckily I was at an >airport with a lot of "wide open" around and I flew the pattern in ground >effect for a safe landing. I removed the retard after that and after a lot >of practice can make decent landings now, but I still avoid short fields, >downhill fields and downwind landings whenever possible and when not, I kill >the engine on close final. My new Corvair engine will definitely have all >the automatic advance range I can reliably squeeze out of it. > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:26:03 -0500 To: "KRNET" From: "RONALD.FREIBERGER" Cc: "Greg Warr" Subject: Electronic Ignition Currect and Charging Message-ID: One of our builders ( not on the net), Bob Wetzel has his aircraft signed off and is doing lots of taxi testing and preflight work. His electronic ignition uses about 6 amps, and he can't keep the battery charged at low engine speeds. Are some of the Electronic Ignition systems more conservative in this regard? The late GM systems I'm familiar with change charging time to be more effective, but I wonder which of these "other" brands do that sort of thing? Bob would like some suggestions in that regard, and I'll try to be his message conduit. Personally, I think all builders ought to be on the NET! Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:07:02 EST To: ron.martha@mindspring.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Kr2skip@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Electronic Ignition Currect and Charging Message-ID: --part1_ff.bb5b14.278c9f36_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am running a homemade system that will fire with almost no input voltage and requires very little current. I use two pertronic triggers and fire through two high performance Harley Davidson coils, firing two plugs at once. It must work been running for almost ten years with no problems. It was designed and built by Don Betchan even has an automatic advance. Skip 250KB --part1_ff.bb5b14.278c9f36_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 01 11:07:29 -0600 To: KR2616TJ@aol.com, krnet From: jshays Subject: RE: KR> KR/IFR - Too Heavy ... Dana - This argument comes up a lot in a lot of homebuilt lists, the real difference between a "legal" ifr, and a vfr only panel is about 10 lb.s, even including the pump, regulator, etc. I don't think 10 lb's is much of a penalty. Just had to make that comment. Regards, Jeff. >===== Original Message From KR2616TJ@aol.com ===== >As you can see to legally fly IFR you must have an electrical system plus a >vacuum system on your KR with a AH and DG. You're getting pretty darn heavy >I'd say. If you have the stuff, you're legal......if not, you aren't. Mine >ain't legal. > > > >Dana Overall >2000 KR Gathering host >Richmond, KY >mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 18:05:13 -0800 To: kr From: Carter Pond Subject: Panel Design Program Message-ID: <3A5BC359.1FD030CF@home.com> Has any one purchased the Panel Planner Design program and if so did they like it? Carter Kr Dreaming and Designing ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:25:12 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Panel Design Program Message-ID: <37.f232cfe.278d2208@aol.com> I had two copies of it and loved it. I passed one around on the KRnet............just for perusal only:-). Someone out there has it, I bet it's gone through 30 hands already. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************