From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 13 Jan 2001 17:17:38 -0000 Issue 153 Date: Saturday, January 13, 2001 9:17 AM krnet Digest 13 Jan 2001 17:17:38 -0000 Issue 153 Topics (messages 3614 through 3635): Re: Vents 3614 by: David R. Christensen 3630 by: Kr2skip.aol.com Re: I am a big pilot 3615 by: Donald Reid Re: RandRob 3 blade adjustable prop 3616 by: Krwr1.aol.com 3617 by: Brian. P Vasseur 3618 by: Seifert, Richard E Re: Problem with KRnewsletter archive 3619 by: Brian. P Vasseur prop 3620 by: user 3626 by: user Inspection Holes 3621 by: Jim Morehead 3622 by: Mark Jones 3623 by: Albert Pecoraro 3625 by: Donald Reid 3633 by: John Bryhan Re: Naming my KR 3624 by: RONALD.FREIBERGER For Sale: 2 1/4" T&B 3627 by: EagleGator.aol.com cheap instruments 3628 by: Kr2dream.aol.com 3629 by: William J. Starrs lower gear brackets 3631 by: Mark Langford wing skins 3632 by: Jack Coranz kr-2 for sale-project 6000.00 FIRM, if you dont have cash, dont respond 3634 by: CHOCTAWCWR.aol.com Wing Dihedral 3635 by: B. McCraw Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 06:03:31 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Vents Message-ID: <003001c07bd7$481e3c20$7b785ad1@davec> I wouldn't hesitate to cut holes anywhere in the plywood as the spruce members provide the basic structure. I put NACA inlets on the fuselage sides just below the longerons and ahead of the instrument panel. If you have those premade ones you could place them somewhere behind the panel where space between spruce members allows. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Serge F. VIDAL To: krnet@mailinglists.org Date: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:47 PM Subject: KR> Vents >Hi, netters, and happy new year to all. > >I did not receive any reply to my E-mail about fitting NACA airscoops on the >fuselage sides. Could anybody confirm it is safe to cut a hole there? > >Serge VIDAL >Johannesburg, South Africa >svidal@icon,co.za > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 19:41:58 EST To: svidal@icon.co.za, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Kr2skip@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Vents Message-ID: <55.fbea120.2790fe56@aol.com> I have them in mine ant it has been flying for 12 years with 1200 hours. Will be glad to send you photos. Skip ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:03:50 -0500 To: From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> I am a big pilot Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.0.20010111085512.00a043b0@pop.erols.com> --=====================_1212900==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 02:06 PM 1/10/2001 -0500, The Boyd Family wrote: >My name is Daniel Boyd, Jr. and I am interested in building a KR-1. >My concern is that I am 6' 4" tall and weight 275 lbs. Will I fit into >this airplane? You will not fit in either a stock KR2 or a KR2S. You will need a bit more leg room than a 2S, which can be had if the instrument panel is set up high or the fuselage is deeper (more distance between the top and bottom longerons. I believe that both versions would be too skinny to be used as a two-place for any length of time for someone of your size. It is possible to base your project on a KR2 and get the necessary size but it does involve a lot of extra design work. One way to try out the size is to get several sheets of plywood from your local home improvement store and build a mock-up. That is what I did to check the necessary size for me, 6'-8+ and 230# (204cm/105kg) Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va KR2XL construction at http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://users.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html --=====================_1212900==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:02:20 EST To: KingDWS@home.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Krwr1@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> RandRob 3 blade adjustable prop Message-ID: <17.101abb91.278f16ec@aol.com> In a message dated 01/10/2001 8:35:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, KingDWS@Home.Com writes: << If anyone has info about this please let me know. I'm curious to find out what problems they had with it. I'd really like to know how well it held up in service ie did the plastic hub crack or have probs, id the blades hold settings etc. Cheers Dave >> Hi Dave I used a Rand Ground adj. Prop. for about 400 hrs. on my KR, And I could never get it to track, one blade was always out. Because of this I could not get over 40 or 50 hrs. on a spinner. I did have one blade crack on the end, and Ken sent me a new one. All I can say good about it, is, it looked great. I ended up with a Great American Prop. . Bill Reents Youngstown Ohio krwr1@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:20:55 -0700 To: "Phil Maynard" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Brian. P Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> RandRob 3 blade adjustable prop Message-Id: <200101111520.IAA09044@spool1.cadvision.com> I've looked thru my newsletters and found a bunch of items on it. The problem with these is that cracks develop in the hub and the whole mess comes apart. Rand was recommending that they be disassembled and checked frequently because the cracks were showing up inside the hub where they weren't visible. If it's new out of the box then it's probably safe to use assuming that you inspect it regularly, if it's used then it may already have cracks. Too bad though because it was a good prop while it lasted. Phil Maynard wrote: >I had that prop and 2 Great American Wood Props and the Maloof 2 >position. >In flight the Maloof was the smoothest - very nice. >The 3 blade was my first prop and the roughest in flight but I didn't >realize it untill I got the others. I didn't have the 3 blade long as I >did >a wheels up landing with it very early on. The best thing about it was >that >in a wheels up landing it ground along on 2 blades and the retracted >wheels >and there was very little damage.. I was flying again in a week. > >Phil Maynard >Ridley Park, PA > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "David W.S. King" >To: >Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 8:34 PM >Subject: KR> RandRob 3 blade adjustable prop > > >> Hi >> >> Just wondering if anyone knows about the 3 blade adjustable prop. >> I've been given one and the fellow says it was a RR ground adjustable >> prop. I've done a quick search but can't find anything on it. I'd like >> to confirm who made it and what problems there were if any. >> >> Here is a brief description and hopefully someone will recognize >> the features. >> >> It does have a vw bolt pattern. The center hub is in two parts and >> these are a cast or molded high density black plastic (phenolic?) >> The blade has a round or cylindrical base that fits snugly into >> the hub. There is a small steel band clamp with allen screws for >> tightening. One of the hub bolts passes through the butt of the >> blade. The bolts are about 3/8's dia and the hole though >> the butt is about 3/4's. >> The blades have very little twist and are tapered to a rounded tip. >> They are solid wood blades with no leading edge insert. The assembled >> diameter for the prop is 48"s. >> >> If anyone has info about this please let me know. I'm curious to find >out >> what problems they had with it. I'd really like to know how well it >held >up >> in service ie did the plastic hub crack or have probs, id the blades >hold >> settings etc. >> >> Cheers >> >> Dave >> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org -- Brian. P Vasseur -- vasseurb@cadvision.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 07:23:04 -0800 To: "'KRnet'" From: "Seifert, Richard E" Subject: RandRob 3 blade adjustable prop Message-Id: David asked about the history of the Rand Robinson 3 blade ground adjustable prop. That injection molded prop hub had cracking problems and Rand Robinson recommended removing them from service after having several failures. Its a good wall hanger. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 10:32:15 -0700 To: "John and Janet Martindale" , "KRnet" From: "Brian Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> Problem with KRnewsletter archive Message-ID: <005c01c07bf4$75bf6c90$15367e40@ucu.com> I spent about 2 days getting all of them. Basically I did the right click, save as, to get them saved on my desktop. Took many failures and many timeouts before it worked but I did get them all. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John and Janet Martindale" To: "KRnet" Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 3:39 AM Subject: KR> Problem with KRnewsletter archive Folks I am continuing to have problems downloading the newsletter archives from Fortune City. Currently I am getting a Error 404 message and previously have had trouble getting pdf files. All was OK back in Geocity days. Are you there Mark Loughheed? Any one else suffering. John Martindale Australia ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:58:44 -0600 To: krnet From: user Subject: prop Message-ID: <3A5DF454.DC348465@telepath.com> need to refinish my prop what can you refinish it with ? paul ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:36:47 -0600 To: krnet From: user Subject: prop Message-ID: <3A5F248F.764950CF@telepath.com> I forgot to mention that it is a wood prop paul ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:31:40 -0800 To: "Kr-net" From: "Jim Morehead" Subject: Inspection Holes Netters, I have read about cutting a round inspection hole in the plywood below the Horizontal Stabilizer to have access to the lower elevator cable. How do you get access to the upper elevator cable? The KR2 book shows using foam to make a fillet between the vertical and horizontal stabilizer. I=B9m open for suggestions. Thanks, Jim Morehead Cameron Park, CA kr2jm@d-web.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 06:24:25 -0600 To: Jim Morehead From: Mark Jones CC: Kr-net Subject: Re: KR> Inspection Holes Message-ID: <3A5EF779.7567E427@execpc.com> Simply make the fairing removable. This has been done with success and great looks. Hopefully someone will chime in on a web site which shows this, Mark Jones Jim Morehead wrote: > Netters, > I have read about cutting a round inspection hole in the plywood below the > Horizontal Stabilizer to have access to the lower elevator cable. How do > you get access to the upper elevator cable? The KR2 book shows using foam > to make a fillet between the vertical and horizontal stabilizer. I=B9m open > for suggestions. > > Thanks, > Jim Morehead > Cameron Park, CA > kr2jm@d-web.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 08:03:12 -0500 To: "kr2s group" From: "Albert Pecoraro" Subject: Re: KR> Inspection Holes Message-ID: <000601c07c98$2e4dd5a0$f1d1b23f@steelcase.com> Jim, Here are a couple site that might give you an idea of how to approach the fairing and what it might look like when you're done: Mark Langford's site (it's toward the bottom, give the page some time to load): http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kvs.html Mike Mims' site: http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/tail2.html Hope this helps. Happy building, Albert Pecoraro http://home.earthlink.net/~gryphonflier ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "Jim Morehead" Cc: "Kr-net" Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 7:24 AM Subject: Re: KR> Inspection Holes > Simply make the fairing removable. This has been done with success and great > looks. Hopefully someone will chime in on a web site which shows this, > Mark Jones > > Jim Morehead wrote: > > > Netters, > > I have read about cutting a round inspection hole in the plywood below the > > Horizontal Stabilizer to have access to the lower elevator cable. How do > > you get access to the upper elevator cable? The KR2 book shows using foam > > to make a fillet between the vertical and horizontal stabilizer. I=B9m open > > for suggestions. > > > > Thanks, > > Jim Morehead > > Cameron Park, CA > > kr2jm@d-web.com > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > -- > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:56:48 -0500 To: From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> Inspection Holes Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.0.20010112093635.009feec0@pop.erols.com> --=====================_1700585==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > I have read about cutting a round inspection hole in the plywood below the >Horizontal Stabilizer to have access to the lower elevator cable. How do >you get access to the upper elevator cable? The KR2 book shows using foam >to make a fillet between the vertical and horizontal stabilizer. I have the access holes at both the top and bottom. The upper is through a non-removable portion of the fillet. In the lower one: The access hole is 1 3/4" diameter. I made a torus (donut) out of a piece of 3/32" plywood. The torus was cut out of the plywood sheet with a 2 1/2" hole saw, and then a 1 1/2" hole saw. This torus is glued to the inside of the fuselage so that there is a small recessed lip around the inside of the access hole. In the upper one: The portion of the fillet is not removable, but there is not a great deal of curvature. The access hole is 1 3/4" diameter. To make the inside trimming, I started with sheet of fiberglass that I made from two plys of glass, cured on a mylar sheet. It is thin and flat and flexible. I have used this sheet kind of like plywood in several other applications. I took a strip of this glass "plywood", put some epoxy on one side, and rolled it into a tube (just like a jelly roll pastry). This tube was trimmed to fit and went inside the access hole. I sized it so that is leaves a small recessed lip inside the access hole, just like the lower one. Covers for the access holes will be circles of thin plexiglass that are lightly glued in placed. Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va KR2XL construction at http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://users.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html --=====================_1700585==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 20:18:14 -0700 To: Mark Jones , Jim Morehead From: John Bryhan CC: Kr-net Subject: Re: KR> Inspection Holes I made my whole tailcone removable - probably won't work with pre-molded turtledeck though. see: http://www.users.qwest.net/~bje25/tail.htm bottom 3 links. >Simply make the fairing removable. This has been done with success and great >looks. Hopefully someone will chime in on a web site which shows this, >Mark Jones > >Jim Morehead wrote: > >> Netters, >> I have read about cutting a round inspection hole in the plywood below the >> Horizontal Stabilizer to have access to the lower elevator cable. How do >> you get access to the upper elevator cable? The KR2 book shows using foam >> to make a fillet between the vertical and horizontal stabilizer. I=B9m open >> for suggestions. >> >> Thanks, >> Jim Morehead >> Cameron Park, CA >> kr2jm@d-web.com >> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >-- >Mark Jones (N886MJ) >Wales, WI USA >E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com >Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at >http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > John Bryhan Los Alamos NM mailto:krjeb@qwest.net http://www.users.qwest.net/~bje25/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:44:56 -0500 To: "Livingstone, Danny \(DJ\)" , From: "RONALD.FREIBERGER" Subject: RE: KR> Naming my KR Message-ID: Name it "Lumpy" and GO FLY :o) Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: Livingstone, Danny (DJ) [mailto:LIVD0124@natref.com] Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 12:14 AM To: 'krnet@mailinglists.org' Subject: KR> Naming my KR Hello Netters I was thinking of giving my KR a name e.g. Air Queen, Speed Princess......etc After last nights 4,5 hour sanding spree on the first layer of primer I have finally come up with a name ....Sanding Bitch! But seriously I thought my KR would only require a little sanding as I have done extensive sanding and filling before hand, after the first layer of primer that goes on it amazing how all the little bumps and small pinholes appear. I stick to my theory that when the KR is build your only 50% complete. The other 50% is the sanding and finishing part! I am currently working on a web site for my KR, I will probably have it up and running next week. Cheers Danny Livingstone South Africa e-mail: livd0124@natref.com ********************************************************************** This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. All opinions expressed are the sender's own and not necessarily that of the employer. ********************************************************************** --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 11:20:32 EST To: From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: For Sale: 2 1/4" T&B Message-ID: <34.f6c0222.279088d0@aol.com> A coworker of mine has a turn and bank he just removed from his sail plane=20 that he would like to sell. It's in very good condition and only weighs 1.3=20 lbs!! United Instruments 2 =BC" turn and bank with off flag, Part No. 9500, 13.7V.= =20 Similar instrument lists for $688 in Aircraft Spruce, asking $525.=20 Please contact him directly at jpitcher@hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 18:05:16 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Kr2dream@aol.com Subject: cheap instruments Message-ID: <49.5fe6df0.2790e7ac@aol.com> --part1_49.5fe6df0.2790e7ac_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey guys, I had a major enlightenment today regarding the quality of import instruments that was worth sharing. An unnamed kit manufacturer asked us to buy and rangemark some Falcon brand (pronounced Chinese) airspeeds. I looked at the instruments lined up and saw that all started at zero at the top and went full circle to 160 knots . Some, however, had the 100 knot mark at the eight o'clock position while others had the same mark at the four o'clock position. No two scales were alike. I called the wholesaler who is the direct link to China and was told that it is cheaper for someone in China to custom emboss each dial mark than it is to get controlled repeatable parts for the mechanism. So much for quality and reliability! I guess the message is that if you buy instruments on the cheap you get what you pay for. Bob Lasecki Chicago --part1_49.5fe6df0.2790e7ac_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 16:41:39 -0700 To: , From: "William J. Starrs" Subject: Re: KR> cheap instruments Message-ID: <001a01c07cf1$3610b100$170b2aa2@starrs> Don't overlook salvaged instruments all made in the US. You can get them at a fraction of new ones. Needless to say they must be checked out by a reliable shop. Bill Starrs ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 4:05 PM Subject: KR> cheap instruments > Hey guys, I had a major enlightenment today regarding the quality of import > instruments that was worth sharing. An unnamed kit manufacturer asked us to > buy and rangemark some Falcon brand (pronounced Chinese) airspeeds. I looked > at the instruments lined up and saw that all started at zero at the top and > went full circle to 160 knots . Some, however, had the 100 knot mark at the > eight o'clock position while others had the same mark at the four o'clock > position. No two scales were alike. I called the wholesaler who is the > direct link to China and was told that it is cheaper for someone in China to > custom emboss each dial mark than it is to get controlled repeatable parts > for the mechanism. So much for quality and reliability! I guess the message > is that if you buy instruments on the cheap you get what you pay for. > > Bob Lasecki > Chicago > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 19:37:32 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: lower gear brackets Message-ID: <003801c07d01$661b2c30$561cf618@600athlon> KRNetHeads, I've been worrying about prop clearance, since I want to swing a 56-58" prop and my Corvair's thrust line sits 2" below the longeron. That sounds like a lot, but I've seen drawings in the Newsletter that indicate that the thrust line was set to 2.375" below the longeron on at least SOME drawings that came out of the "factory". Troy swings a 60" prop, but only has about 4" of ground clearance, but then he normally flies off of asphalt, and he's a great pilot. I'm planning on landing on some grass (although it's kept like a golf course), but would like to have the extra clearance. And I'd like a little taller stance to come a little closer (1 degree) to a full stall landing. Anyway, the easiest way I've come up with to do that is just add 2.5" to the length of the lower gear leg bracket (in the vertical direction), which also improves the angle that the gear intersects the wheel fairing and might reduce drag a tad. They won't be drilled (so that they will accept any axle) but there will be an offset so that the bracket will align with the gear leg, rather than being skewed like the Diehl brackets end up. See the two pictures at the bottom of http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kgear.html to see what I mean, and a drawing of the new extended bracket. I'm going to order mine on Monday, and if anybody else wants some Trailing Edge Technologies, LLC. will make a set for you too, for about $50-$60. I'll be the first to admit that these have not been tested and would be at your own risk, etc. And these will only work with taildraggers, unless you extend your nose gear too. Reply to this email DIRECTLY to me if you want a set, by Sunday night so we'll know how many to make... Mark Langford, Trailing Edge Technologies, LLC. mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 02:32:21 -0000 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Jack Coranz" Subject: wing skins Message-ID: The project I am finishing sat were the sun could get at it for about 3 months. Do you guys think that was enough to hurt the skins??? Also the wings appear to have only one layer of cloth, the way I understand it it should have two, any comments... Jack Coranz _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 23:07:48 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: CHOCTAWCWR@aol.com Subject: kr-2 for sale-project 6000.00 FIRM, if you dont have cash, dont respond Message-ID: 80% finished, only 75% to go. all fiberglass finished, needs to be filled and primed, painted revmaster 2100D, 200 TT, 0 SMOH, this was done to install the new crank AD, new sterba prop, most instruments, motor mount, alt., canopy completed, needs hinge installed, header tank, tail dragger, have enough wire to wire several planes, cowling needs to be fitted, seat cushions, rudder pedals, single stick. project located in atlanta texas, price 6000.00 FIRM can be hauled on 16 ft. trailer, can deliver within a reasonable distance of Texarkana,Tx for a reasonable fee. no phone calls please, i will call you if you are serious, don't have time for tire kickers, have no pictures and would only be able to send by us postal if i were to get any. reason for selling, must come up with tuition for TX A&M for my son. will break my heart to see the girl go, but i think A&M will be a better investment, also have spinner. have some avionics i would also sell seperately, new micro air nav com, , loran system and audio panel, there are more but i don't have the list here. charles please respond off the net to me directly, thanks ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 12:34:24 -0500 To: From: "B. McCraw" Subject: Wing Dihedral Message-ID: <001001c07d87$122bef20$9f70e218@nimc1.on.home.com> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C07D5D.29345560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Krnetters; Could someone clarify something about wing dihedral? If a design = sprcifies a dihedral of ,say 5 degrees, is this an included angle from = tip to tip ,or is it the angle from acft. CL. to the tip? I'm drawing up = a curved center section for my "S" and the standard "5 inches at the = tip" doesn't come anywhere close to the 4-6 degrees that I see specified = for some popular aircraft. Can someone shed some more light on this? = Also, if the angle was applied at acft.center, using straight outer = wings, what angle would be used to give the same mean dihedral as = compared to the KR standard of putting the dihedral in the outer planes = only? I'm not trying to design a new wheel here but I like the looks of = sthaight wings and would like to try it. Any input on this would be = appreciated (just don't call me crazy :-) ) =20 Thanks,Bill McCraw Niagara Falls Canada bmccraw2@home.com ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C07D5D.29345560-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************