From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 13 Mar 2001 04:15:39 -0000 Issue 190 Date: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:15 PM krnet Digest 13 Mar 2001 04:15:39 -0000 Issue 190 Topics (messages 4563 through 4592): Re: Sanding Board Success 4563 by: EagleGator.aol.com Sanding Board Source info 4564 by: EagleGator.aol.com Re: Rod-end bearing lubricant ... 4565 by: GARYKR2.cs.com Re: Landing gear question ... 4566 by: GARYKR2.cs.com New builder 4567 by: Ray Brock 4570 by: Mark Jones 4572 by: Rick Hubka Re: Diehl Gear / Cleveland Wheels - Bolt Interference 4568 by: larry flesner 4574 by: Dale Baldwin Re: High RPM at engine startup 4569 by: doug d Re: New builder/ Welcome 4571 by: Frank Ross Autocad files or KR-2S 4573 by: Carter Pond Happy Fly .. a flier story 4575 by: RONALD.FREIBERGER 4576 by: Linda Warner Re: KR fixes 4577 by: Gognij.aol.com 4588 by: Mark Langford Re: KR proof load 4578 by: DennisMingear.netscape.net 4579 by: IMA FLYER 4581 by: John P Moyle Rhino 3D 4580 by: John P Moyle 4582 by: George Wiring ? 4583 by: IMA FLYER 4584 by: doug d 4585 by: CS 4586 by: Cary Honeywell 4587 by: Mark Langford Re: Retractable KR1 gear 4589 by: GARYKR2.cs.com 4592 by: aerobair KR1 forsale 4590 by: Carter Pond 4591 by: Mark Langford Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 20:22:12 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: Re: KR>Sanding Board Success Message-ID: <61.c23a430.27dd7ec4@aol.com> --part1_61.c23a430.27dd7ec4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit OK, Let me try this again... forwarding didn't seem to work, so here's a cut'n paste. > Hi Rick, > Try 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. Please tell us how you made the sanding > board > as I am almost to the sanding stage and would like to ease my pain a little. > Thanks, > Mark Jones > Ooops, my bad! I made my sanding board from a piece of scrap 3/32 plywood and some other odds and ends from my shop. It's sized to fit two full sheets of sand paper side by side. I used 5 minute epoxy to attach two handles, made from scrap wood, to the back side of the board. The original post, as I remember it, suggested using large dowels, but I didn't have any today. So, I just used two pieces, about 1.5 x .75 x 6, glued on the .75 edge. It worked ok, but I think I'll make another one with dowels screwed end-wise onto the back. On the business side of the board, I glued a piece of scrap tool drawer liner over the entire surface. The original post recomended 1/4" foam, I think, but I didn't have any laying around (are you picking up on a theme here?). The original post then had you glue a piece of plastic over the foam to provide a surface to glue the sand paper to, but my tool drawer liner had a finished surface already, so I skipped this step. The last step, for me, was to use rubber cement (which I saw on a shelf in my shop...) to attach the sand paper to the tool drawer liner. This holds it nice and firm, but also makes it very easy to remove the paper, and then just roll off the rubber cement residue before attaching the new paper. I can't remember what was originally suggested for this. Move the board back and forth, not around in a circle, for best results. I worked it widthwise on the piece, and then lengthwise. Worked for me! Hope this helps, sorry for the earlier omission! Cheers, Rick Junkin, St. Charles MO EagleGator@aol.com --part1_61.c23a430.27dd7ec4_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 20:45:22 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: Sanding Board Source info Message-ID: <9e.113ca337.27dd8432@aol.com> --part1_9e.113ca337.27dd8432_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After a brief search, I found the original post from Peter Johnson ( pjohnson@voyageur.ca ). Here's the applicable excerpt from the expert... The secret to getting a good finish on a surface is not so much to have a 'smooth' surface, but to have a 'flat' surface. To obtain a 'flat' surface I would not recommend using an electric sander for the following reasons: An electric sander will only cover an area about 4 1/4 x 7, it is hard to move fast without it 'tripping' on itself, and it is too easy to hold it in one place and sand away shadows. The secret to producing a 'flat' finish on a large surface such as a wing or fuse is to use a large sander!, it is called a sanding board. Sanding boards are made to fit one full, or two full sheets of sandpaper. I use cheap, 3-ply spruce plywood cut to size. On the back side I attach two 1 1/2" dowells on blocks to use as handles, they should be larger than smaller. On the front surface I completly smear cheap paper paste such as 'YooHoo Glue Sticks' from the stationary store, to attach a layer of dense, firm, but flexible foam such as cheap mouse pads or that blue foam you can buy for sleeping on when you're camping. On top of that, and still smearing lots of glue stick, I lay on a layer of heavy vapour barrier plastic. The sandpaper is attached to the plastic using the glue stick applied just inside the edges of the sandpaper sheet. To explain the above, the cheap 3 ply plywood is used because it has 'some' flexibilty, the foam is used to allow some conformance to curved surfaces, (if your surface is very rough to begin with, build another sanding board without the foam and use it sparingly, just enough to knock down the high spots), and the plastic allows easy removal of the sandpaper, the smooth, round handles allow you to easily roll your hands on the handles, and the glue sticks are used because you can use water to soak off old sandpaper and glue residue buildups. Now to use your new sanding boards, take a soft lead pencil and softly scribble all over your work surface. Position the work so that you can comfortably use the board, (you'll figure this out quickly), and start sanding, I wouldn't use anything much rougher than 120G to begin. Use your entire body to move the sanding board over a large, long, area of the work, and sand in long, sweeping strokes. Don't hesitate to move your work surface to accomodate your 'swing' and allow you to be comfortable. When sanding the fuse, sand fore and aft, when sanding the wings, sand inboard/outboard. The removal of the pencil marks will indicate when you've sanded an area enough. Be prepared to discover that it takes very little time to sand an area like a KR wing, and you will probably find that you are moving in an almost constant 'swing-step, swing-step' procedure. So does this sound like a lot of work? Yes it does. Is it a lot of work? No it isn't. As an example, I spent twelve hours ROUGH sanding the last coat of epoxy on the above boat using 40G paper, it took 6 hours using a double sheet sanding board and 120G paper to cover the same area! (PS, use 'C', or 'D' weight sandpaper, (the heavy stuff), and use aluminim oxide, it lasts) A couple of details....Any area that must be sanded my hand (small, detail sanding), should be done first. Don't hesitate to hang a flexible vacuum cleaner hose off the sanding board, wear hearing protection, don't plan on this taking a long time!, it doesn't!, drink plenty of water (this is applicable to anything in life), wear a dust mask!!!!, and DON'T try using a sanding board to wet sand. It is hilarious to discover why; every once in a while the wet sandpaper will 'vacuum seal' itself to the surface and you'll be 15 feet sideways and still flying before you realise what happened! On small surfaces such as a KR wing it will take very little energy completly sand the surface. Start sanding with 120G and go as fine as you like always vacuuming and using soft pencil scribblings between sandings. Cheers, Rick Junkin, St. Charles MO EagleGator@aol.com --part1_9e.113ca337.27dd8432_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:05:53 EST To: jaslkw@webtv.net, gryphonflier@earthlink.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> Rod-end bearing lubricant ... Message-ID: <9b.1205799e.27dd8901@cs.com> In a message dated 3/8/01 1:29:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, jaslkw@webtv.net writes: << I use a lubricant called LPS-2 which is available locally. It has good staying quality (better than WD-40), if you want something greaseless, the try LPS-1. What do you other mechanics out there use? >> You can use any lite oil to get it freed up. After that, keep the bearing lubed with a 30 weight nondetergent oil. What I didn't hear is if this is a sealed bearing. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:44:45 EST To: gryphonflier@earthlink.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> Landing gear question ... Message-ID: <4b.893baee.27dd921d@cs.com> In a message dated 3/8/01 6:20:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, gryphonflier@earthlink.net writes: << For taildraggers, does anyone know the general rule regarding the angle of forward sweep of the axle centers with respect to the empty CG of the plane? >> As far as I know, there is no set amount. There is no requirement for any forward sweep. Steve Witman had his gear swept back. What is important is where the axle is in relation to the C/G. Normal would be a couple of inches ahead of the forward most C/G. Other than that, I can't give you a solid answer. Go out to the airport and do some measuring of the tail draggers you find. They already have it figured out. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:40:38 -0600 To: "Krnet" From: "Ray Brock" Subject: New builder Message-ID: <000e01c0aaa6$34141bc0$cb34fea9@cx603929-a.omhan1.ne.home.com> Hello Guys I will start building my KR2S this summer. Has any one played with autocad and have a DWG file of the KR-2S? BTW I am pleased to belong to a group that is willing to share their experiences so that others may benefit. Keep up the great work!!! Ray Brock ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:54:31 -0600 To: raymond.brock@home.com From: Mark Jones CC: Krnet Subject: Re: KR> New builder Message-ID: <3AAC4877.7EC11130@execpc.com> Welcome Ray, We are all here to assist you in your project. We hope this will be a most rewarding endeavor. Welcome to the KR family!!!!! Mark Jones Ray Brock wrote: > Hello Guys > > I will start building my KR2S this summer. Has any one played with autocad > and have a DWG file of the KR-2S? > BTW I am pleased to belong to a group that is willing to share their > experiences so that others may benefit. > > Keep up the great work!!! > Ray Brock > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:07:51 -0700 To: "Krnet" From: "Rick Hubka" Subject: Re: KR> New builder Message-ID: <002101c0aab2$63cdb4a0$6401a8c0@cg.shawcable.net> Hi Ray Welcome... There are a few builders that have done some KR AutoCAD. To my knowledge nobody has done the whole plane that can admit and share it. A while back one builder and his brother started doing the whole KR-2S in AutoCAD but it fizzled out "understandably" due to potential copy right violations with RR. If you have been reading our posts the last few months you will have witnessed a few weeks of semi-hostility amongst a few of us. This happens at least once a year and then we all settle back to what we do best. Building KR's and sharing idea's and individual opinions. I'm only about 20% done my KR-2S. I'm in Calgary Alberta Canada and there are about 5 or 6 of us here building KR's. Where you located? If you do any changes... and you don't have to. Make your KR-2S fuselage approx 4 inches wider at the shoulders. If you'd like to know other recommendations for changes email me off line because modifications are a hot topic and there are many differing opinions that have already been stated several dozen times over on the newsgroup. If you have not already gone there...go to Mark Langford's site at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford It is no less than awesome. You can spend days there. Take Care and happy reading.... because I know that's what you do before building. Rick Hubka rick@hubka.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ray Brock" To: "Krnet" Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 8:40 PM Subject: KR> New builder > Hello Guys > > I will start building my KR2S this summer. Has any one played with autocad > and have a DWG file of the KR-2S? > BTW I am pleased to belong to a group that is willing to share their > experiences so that others may benefit. > > Keep up the great work!!! > Ray Brock > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:35:57 -0600 To: "Austin Clark" , From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Diehl Gear / Cleveland Wheels - Bolt Interference Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20010311193557.00801c50@pop3.norton.antivirus> >I am installing Cleveland wheels and brakes and see the problem with the >bolts being very close to the brake rotor that Mark Langford, Dr. Dean and >others have described. Mine are not dragging the rotor, but are close enough >that I will grind the heads slightly to increase clearance. >Austin Clark >KR2S ========================================================================= Austin, Could you just put a small spacer under the axle base where it attaches to the lower fitting?? I'm using Clevelands also but on my own lower fittings that I made before Dan came out with his steel ones. I'm using axles from a C-150 and I used the tappered spacers to adjust my toe in/ toe out and one for camber. That also spaced my brake assy's out a good distance. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 04:22:36 -0500 To: "Austin Clark" , , "larry flesner" From: "Dale Baldwin" Subject: Re: KR> Diehl Gear / Cleveland Wheels - Bolt Interference Message-Id: <20010312092451.ZQSK9562.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@computername> Austin, I used counter sunk bolts on the top two . Dale Baldwin, KR-2 ---------- > From: larry flesner > To: Austin Clark ; krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: Re: KR> Diehl Gear / Cleveland Wheels - Bolt Interference > Date: Sunday, March 11, 2001 8:35 PM > > > >I am installing Cleveland wheels and brakes and see the problem with the > >bolts being very close to the brake rotor that Mark Langford, Dr. Dean and > >others have described. Mine are not dragging the rotor, but are close enough > >that I will grind the heads slightly to increase clearance. > >Austin Clark > >KR2S > ========================================================================= > > Austin, > > Could you just put a small spacer under the axle base where it > attaches to the lower fitting?? > > I'm using Clevelands also but on my own lower fittings that I made > before Dan came out with his steel ones. I'm using axles from a > C-150 and I used the tappered spacers to adjust my toe in/ toe out > and one for camber. That also spaced my brake assy's out a good > distance. > > Larry Flesner > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:45:28 -0800 (PST) To: svidal@icon.co.za, krnet@mailinglists.org From: doug d Subject: Re: KR> High RPM at engine startup Message-ID: <20010312034528.64529.qmail@web11011.mail.yahoo.com> --- "Serge F. VIDAL" wrote: I > turned the propeller > counter-clockwise for a few turns, then tried to > start. > > The result: a nice engine start, and immediate a > huge RPM, despite the fact > that the throttle was full back. Naturally, this KR2 > being a taildragger, my > propeller did not survive (Sight!). > > *************** Hi, larry flesner was right when he said that you sucked too much fuel into the manifold by turning the prop backwards. It's a common method used to start lots of planes like the champ and super cub.... Turning it backwards reverses the four cycles of the engine, I can't remember right off why it sucks in more gas backwards, but it sure does. It may be because the cylinder goes through two cycles with both valves closed before it goes through intake with the intake valve open and the piston moving down. Maybe extra vacuum is created by the power stroke followed directly by the compression stroke when turning it backwards... Maybe that will help. Doug Derby Kr2 Rapid City, SD __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 20:47:04 -0800 (PST) To: Krnet From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> New builder/ Welcome Message-ID: <20010312044704.26256.qmail@web4702.mail.yahoo.com> Ray, Welcome to the shop. Hope you have as much fun doing this as the rest of us. Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 00:32:40 -0800 To: kr From: Carter Pond Subject: Autocad files or KR-2S Message-ID: <3AAC89A8.3F93949A@home.com> Yes I have been working on the KR-2S drawing into auto cad. So far it is just the outside dim with canopy, and engine, Cam 125. I also have MR Pilot drawn in. Carter ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 07:58:57 -0500 To: "KRNET" From: "RONALD.FREIBERGER" Subject: Happy Fly .. a flier story Message-ID: Sorry, but this may fit some recent KRNET Issues Happy Fly Story There once was a happy little fly buzzing around a barn one day, when she happened upon a large pile of fresh cow manure. Since it had been hours since her last meal and she was feeling hunger pangs, she flew down to the irresistible delicacy and began to munch out. She ate...and ate... and then .. she ate some more!! Finally, she decided she'd had plenty. She washed her face with her tiny front legs, belched a few times, then attempted to fly away. But alas...she had pigged out far too much and could not get off the ground. She looked around wondering what to do about this unpleasant situation when she spotted a pitchfork leaning upright against the barn wall. She'd found a solution!! She realized if she could just become airborne she'd be able to fly again. So, she painstakingly, climbed to the top of the handle. Once there, she took a deep breath, spread her tiny fly wings, and leaped confidently into the air. She dropped like a rock and splattered all over the floor... Dead Fly !!.... The moral of this sad story? "Never fly off the handle when you know you're full of shit." Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:18:25 -0500 (EST) To: ron.martha@mindspring.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: jaslkw@webtv.net (Linda Warner) Subject: Re: KR> Happy Fly .. a flier story Message-ID: <17853-3AACCCA1-6196@storefull-222.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Touche!!!! John ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:23:34 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Gognij@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> KR fixes Message-ID: <3f.11da2144.27de27d6@aol.com> --part1_3f.11da2144.27de27d6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fix the plane? How about maintaining flight proficiency! Marty Roberts has a wonderful airplane. I have flown his plane with full tanks on a 100 degree day back when he had a 2180 VW engine in it. IT FLEW GREAT! If anybody has flown a T-tailed Piper Arrow. They would have a good idea about the way this airplane feels in flight. So many people blame everything and everybody around them for problems in their own lives. Many people who build airplanes must have a sense of fulfillment in their lives. They need praise! Satisfaction! How about renting an airplane and flying ounce or twice this year. No airplane will ever fly good to those people that never fly. The EAA has been trying to help people realize this shortcoming in a nice way. Most people that choose the KR2 or 1 as a project. Have chosen this aircraft in part because it is not expensive to build. SO, with all that money you are saving how about buying a few hours of flying time this year. We have taken the KR2 and stretched it into a KR2's. We have changed the wing! We have changed the tail! We have added 50HP to the airplane. We have added 300# to the empty weight. We have changed the gear. Everything about this airplane has changed except the proficiency level of the pilot. How would you know the difference between the two wing designes? How could you see a difference between the stock tail or enlarged or stretched tail, if you can't maintain level flight? Can you still fly and work the radio since you have spent 3 years building your airplane with only a few bummed rides with friends. To those who maintain flight proficiency. Who also make changes to their airplanes in the interest of progress and experimentation, I COMMEND YOU! Keep up the good work and please share your experience with the rest of us. You have much to offer. But to those people that are followers in to word. Follow the advise of the FAA,AOPA,EAA and get your BFR.....That stands for biannual flight review for those of you that have forgotten. Don't be afraid to get your medical either. You also can fly with blood pressure medicine with NO PROBLEM. If you get on Norvasc you wont even need Virgata:) Boy I feel better.......Thanks! Jim Gogniat --part1_3f.11da2144.27de27d6_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 20:28:41 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> KR fixes Message-ID: <009f01c0ab65$522532b0$561cf618@600athlon> Jim Gogniat wrote: > Fix the plane? > > How about maintaining flight proficiency! Marty Roberts has a > wonderful airplane. I have flown his plane with full tanks on a 100 degree > day back when he had a 2180 VW engine in it. IT FLEW GREAT! Hmmmm. Looks like Marty has an aerodynamic/static balance horn on his horizontal stabilizer (see http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/barkley2000/00092532.jpg ) similar to the one that Richard Mole (the British heretic) designed for the KR2S (and we argued over last week). I wonder if that had anything to do with the wonderful flying qualities you experienced? Oh no, here comes a hundred replies of how wonderful the stocker is, but have any of those guys flown a KR that's been "improved"? > We have taken > the KR2 and stretched it into a KR2's. We have changed the wing! We have > changed the tail! We have added 50HP to the airplane. We have added 300# to > the empty weight. We have changed the gear. Next time you fly Marty's plane, ask him how much his plane weighs now, and how much power he's putting out these days, and why he doesn't just dump that 0-200 in favor of his trusty old 2180 cc VW. I suspect his answer will have something to do with having more fun now than before. Marty is constantly changing his airplane. And my guess is that it's to make it BETTER! >SO, with all that money you are > saving how about buying a few hours of flying time this year. I had a hard time following the rest of that message. I felt like I was being slapped and having my hand shaken at the same time. But I will tell you that one reason I'm building is because I can't afford to rent a plane. To stay proficient, most agree that 40 hours per year is the minimum, not just a "few hours". At $60 an hour, that's $2400 a year. That's just about what I've been putting into my plane each year for the last 7 years. Many folks building these planes can't afford that luxury. When I get closer to flying my KR, I'll get a healthy dose of taildragger time and get back into the groove to get ready. Afterwards I will quickly become a high-time pilot, because I will then be able to afford it. I appreciate your position, and your efforts to keep us slobs current is commendable, but cut us a little slack, please. If the choice is to rent a worn-out spam can for the rest of my life, or building and flying a speedster of my own, I'm building my own. You know, last week I was tempted to post that I wasn't "laying low" because my feelings had been hurt, but in an effort to put all of my spare time into finishing my plane by the Gathering. It seems that the more I post, the more stuff I stir up, and the more email I have to write. But when people come out and pooh pooh all of the modifications I've made to my plane, it makes me wonder why I don't just keep my thoughts to myself and save myself the grief. It seems no matter what you do on this list, somebody's got a problem with it. And the funny thing about changes is that those most rabid in their "stocker" convictions have already built past the point that they can change things. Fortunately, I know what I want, I'm going to build it, and nobody's going to change my mind about it. I've said it a million times: If you want to build a totally dead-stock KR, you're more than welcome to follow the plans and build one. You won't hear a peep out of me. But please don't condemn me for finding the "free lunches" and building mine my way. It's not hurting you one bit... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 11:22:11 -0500 To: kids2fly@nm.net From: DennisMingear@netscape.net Cc: kogelmannc@yline.com, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> KR proof load Message-ID: <1077D609.28DC14F6.5363BC18@netscape.net> Andy Marshall uses a similiar method in his great book on composites. He uses wiffle trees as described here and then shows you how to place them under the wing. The difference in his method is that he then uses some cheap hydraulic jacks to apply the load. Very cost effective and all you have to do is move a t little hydraulic fluid around. Dennis... Manager Bill wrote: > > This is for Chris Kogelmann in Austria, but I am sending it via the > krnet for information and comment. > > First I want to dispel the notion that I am on the Rand Robinson > payroll. I have an ongoing agreement with Jeannette to work on a > structural analysis of the KR-2S, but it is a task-by-task job and I > haven’t worked on it very often. Despite what many of you may believe, > Mrs. Rand is not reaping huge profits from her business. Most of what I > have done in forums at Oshkosh and at Sun N Fun has been as a volunteer, > though she helped some with travel expenses. Like the rest of you, all > that I do here on krnet is unpaid, though I have written about a couple > of things I was paid to do. What follows is part of that, although the > conversions to metric I am doing for Chris, not Jeannette. > > Chris, you didn’t mention what the gross weight of your KR is going to > be, but since you are using VW power, I assume you are following the > guidelines and are working toward 980 lb (445 kg). You should have no > fear of loading your wing to the equivalent of 445 kg; as I wrote a few > days ago, it is more than strong enough to support 477 kg at 4.0 g > without permanent deformation. That is, when the load is removed, it > will return to its unloaded shape. That is the definition of limit load. > So you are perfectly safe in loading to 445 kg at 3.8 g, provided that > you do it carefully and correctly. As a matter of fact, it’s a good > idea. You wouldn’t fire a rifle or shotgun without proof marks on the > barrel, would you? > > You expressed reluctance to invert your KR so it can be loaded acting > downward on the lower surface, so I will tell you how to keep the > airplane upright. It will take some sturdy lumber and a bit of time to > build the loading levers, but the work is pretty easy. You are going to > build a pair of simple support beams to go over the spar at the wing > roots, because you will be pushing up on the wings, and you need to hold > the airplane down. Next you are going to build ten loading levers and > their stands, five for each wing, but they will all be identical. > > First, the support beams. They need to be sturdy, because you will be > pushing against them with about 800 kg on each side. In the US, a > standard board size is 2 x 6, which is finished to 1.5 x 5.5 inches, or > 4 cm x 14 cm. You need two pieces, each 2 meters long. Drill each end > through the 14 cm width so you can attach a chain or cable that will > reach an anchor in the ground and so the cables will clear the wings > with the midpoint of the beam centered over the front spar. Attach a 5 > cm x 4 cm rubber pad to the 4 cm bottom edge at its midpoint to form a > bearing surface on the top of the front spar. Each ground anchor and > cable should withstand at least 400 kg; 500 kg would be better. > > Now you will need a total of 24.5 meters of 50 mm x 50 mm square stock, > 8 square meters of 18 to 20 mm plywood, and 28 glass or steel balls > about 12 to 15 mm in diameter. Finally you will need 1306 kg of bricks > or sand and sandbags. The bricks are easier to stack, but don’t buy > them; borrow them, and if you can’t borrow bricks, use the sand and > sandbags. Of course, you’ll also need a scale to weigh the bricks or > sand. > > Cut 10 pieces of 50 mm square stock into 1 meter lengths. Set 2 pieces > aside. With a drill, start a 10 mm hole 20 mm from the end of each of > the 8 pieces remaining. Turn the pieces over, and start a 10 mm hole 330 > mm from the center of the first hole in each piece. These are sockets > for the 12 mm balls. (If you use 15 mm balls, use a 12 mm drill bit.) > Each hole should be such that a ball will go about 1/3 of the way into a > hole. These 8 pieces are the outboard loading levers. Measure 660 mm > from the center of each end socket, and drill a shallow socket hole. > These holes will locate the center lines of the loading planks that you > will place your sandbags on. > > Cut 12 blocks of 50 mm square stock,  each 100 mm long (this length is > not critical). Glue and screw two blocks flush with the ends of each of > the two remaining 1 meter lever arms and on opposite sides of the arm so > you form a 100 mm x 150 mm surface at one end of each lever. These are > the inboard lever arms. Drill a ball socket  100 mm apart and 20 mm from > the end of each lever arm. (This is why you glued blocks to the sides.) > Measure 330 mm from the centers of the sockets and mark the pivot point > on each arm. Center a 100 mm block to each side of the lever arms (same > orientation as the end blocks) on these marks, and glue and screw them > in place. Turn each arm over and drill a ball socket in each block at > the lever arm center line and 100 mm apart. Turn the arms over again and > measure 660 mm from the center line between the end socket holes. Mark > each arm. This is the centerline of the inboard loading platform. Center > two of the last four 100 mm blocks to each lever arm (same orientation > as the others) and glue and screw them in place. > > Now cut 2 pieces of 18 mm  or 20 mm plywood, each 600 x 630 mm. The > grain should run the long way. Mark the center of each piece, and glue > and screw one platform with its center over the loading centerline of > each inboard loading lever. > > Cut 4 pieces of 50 mm square stock, each 630 mm long. Two of these are > the inboard load distribution pads, and the other two are ballast to > balance the 630 mm loading pads. Mark the centers of the two load > distribution pads, and drill a pair of ball sockets 50 mm on each side > of the centerlines to match the two sockets in the ends of the inboard > loading levers. > > Cut 4 pieces of 50 mm square stock, each 2.4 meters long. Two of these > are load distribution pads and two are ballast to balance the loading > plank that will rest on the loading levers. Make a mark to identify the > outboard tips of the two distribution pads. Starting from the outboard > end of each pad, drill ball sockets centered at 4 locations on each pad: > 343 mm from the tip, 953 mm from the tip, 1504 mm from the tip, and 2174 > mm from the tip. These sockets will locate the ends of the 8 outboard > loading levers, 4 on each outboard wing panel. > > Cut 2 plywood loading planks, each 2.4 meters long by 600 mm wide, with > the grain running the long way (if your plywood is only available in > American 8 foot lengths, don’t worry about the missing inch. Just > compensate for a 25 mm shortage at the tip end of each plank.) Scribe a > centerline down each plank and drill ball socket holes corresponding to > the socket holes in the load distribution pads. Don’t forget to > compensate for the missing 25 mm at the tip if you are using American > size plywood. > > Now cut 10 pieces of 50 mm square stock, each 220 mm long, and 10 pieces > of plywood each 150 mm square. These are the pylons that the loading > planks and the load distribution pads will rest on. Center one end of a > 220 mm pylon on the center of each plywood base and glue and screw it in > place. Drill a ball socket in the free end of each pylon. > > You are ready to assemble the loading system. Place five pylons about > equally spaced and about 15 mm ahead of the center section leading edge > of each wing. Starting from the inboard end, number them from 1 to 5. > Place a bearing ball in each pylon socket. Take the two inboard loading > levers (the ones with two ball sockets in the ends) and place them on > the no. 1 pylons, locating each lever with its socket on the ball in the > pylon and the short end projecting under the wing. Insert balls in the > sockets and place the 630 mm loading pads on the levers, with their ball > sockets on the bearing balls in the ends of the loading levers. Put a > 630 mm ballast bar just in front of each load distribution pad. Now > adjust each assembly of pylon, loading lever, load distribution pad and > ballast bar so the loading pad is centered on the bottom of the main > spar and the end of the loading pad is flush with the outside of the > fuselage. The loading levers won’t be completely balanced, so the > distribution pads will press lightly against the bottom of the spar and > keep everything steady. > > Place a loading lever with its midpoint ball socket over the bearing > ball on each of the 8 outboard pylons, and put a bearing ball in the end > socket and the loading socket of each lever. Now place a 600 mm loading > plank, with its locating sockets facing down, over each set of outboard > loading levers, and adjust the pylons in and out so the ball sockets in > the platforms fit onto the bearing balls in the lever arms. Adjust the > whole assembly so the outboard edge of each platform is even with the > tips of the wings. Place a load distribution pad and a ballast bar > between the wing and the loading levers, and again adjust the pylons in > and out and back and forth so the load distribution bars are even with > the bottoms of the spars and the bearing sockets fit over the balls in > the loading levers. > > Are you still with me? It is hard to describe this without using a > picture or drawing, but I have a phobia against e-mail attachments. If > you require a drawing, I will send you one by postal service. > > You should now have your airplane securely fastened down, with ten short > pylons each supporting a load lever, and the system of load levers > having a short inboard and a long outboard loading platform in front of > the wing and a short load distribution pad and a long distribution pad > pressing against the bottom of the wing spar on each side of the > fuselage. You are ready to apply the 3.8 g static load. However, the > total load will not be 3.8 times 444 kg, both because you are not going > to load the part of the wing that is inside the fuselage, and because > the downward inertia of the outboard wing panels relieves the lift load > on the wing. The applied load is centered on the forward spar because > this is the 25 percent chord location, and the lift load is centered > approximately on the 25 percent chord. Gather your bricks. > > You are going to apply the following loads: >  pad number 1, 186 kg >  pad number 2, 144 kg >  pad number 3, 125 kg >  pad number 4, 107 kg >  pad number 5,  91 kg > Total applied to each wing, 653 kg > Incidentally, this distribution includes the effect of 2 degrees washout > (twist) in the outer wing panels. > > Start at the inboard location, pad number 1. Stack 186 kg of bricks so > the load is centered on the center of the pylon. Note that the wing spar > will bend a little, and the outer levers will be tilted upward against > the wing. Put some spacers under the number 2 pylon until the lever is > at least level, and make sure that the long loading pad is even with the > spar all along its length. Load both number 1 pylons before you adjust > the number 2 pylons. > > Now stack 144 kg of bricks on the loading plank, with the load centered > over the center of the number 2 pylon on each side of the fuselage.. > > Move to pylon number 3. Note that the wing spar will be bent a little > more, and the number 3 loading levers will be tilting up toward the > wing. Put spacers under the pylon platforms to level the levers again, > and load each lever number 3 with 125 kg of bricks, again centered over > the number 3 pylons. > > Move to the number 4 pylons. Put spacers under the platforms to level > the loading levers. Then load the plank with 107 kg of bricks, centered > on pylon number 4, for each wing panel. > > Finally, move to the number 5 pylons. Put spacers under the platforms > (it will probably take quite a few!) to level the loading levers. > Finally, load each plank with 91 kg of bricks, centered on pylon number > 5. > > Take lots of pictures! Also be sure the Austrian officials are there to > witness the loading, though you don’t need them around until you > actually start piling bricks. It would also be wise to measure the > upward bending of the spar at the wingtip also. Finally, remove the > loads in reverse order. That is, unload the number 5 pylons, then the > number 4 pylons, and so on, working on both wings as you go. > > The last step, and of utmost importance to the officials (as well as to > you!), is to inspect the wings and the attach fittings after all the > load has been removed. If you have done all the gluing, glassing, > reaming and bolting properly, there should be no damage at all. Go fly! > > Bill Marcy > Still penciling on paper > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > __________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:48:43 -0500 To: DennisMingear@netscape.net From: Eckmstr@netscape.net ( IMA FLYER) Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> KR proof load Message-ID: <1C7CADC5.0A0ED802.00167451@netscape.net> Hello again KRNetheads, I was watching battlebots last night and heard a builder mention a modeling program for windows called Rhino 3D. I've done some surfing and found a tutorial on how to model a plane ANY plane. It starts out with a standard three view drawing (front, top and side) and builds from there. Seems very straignt forward and I've downloaded it with several of the tutorials as well. I'll make an effort to put together a rendering of a KR2S in the layout I plane to build. No this doesn't measure up to building a model (or the Real Thing for that matter) but it may be a benifit for those here that whould like to use it for paint schemes or whatever. I'll keep you posted as to the progress. I'm also being blessed with a new 1.5 gig Dell screamer here at work and this should help make things happen much faster. Finally I'm looking into picking up a program that can run FEA (finite element analysis) on various parts. This is what was done on the new wing in order to develop it. But this d! oesn't require a mainframe to accomplish just a fast (as in Very Fast) workstation. It's still in the evaluation period but it looks promising. More later. And as always...Be safe and watch yur 6. Jon, Minneapolis __________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 11:16:59 -0800 To: Eckmstr@netscape.net From: John P Moyle Cc: DennisMingear@netscape.net, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> KR proof load Message-ID: <20010312.111700.-376079.1.jmoyle1@juno.com> Jon, Opps!! forgot the site address.......... http://www.dmmoyle.com/mist/look.asp John Moyle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 11:15:24 -0800 To: Eckmstr@netscape.net From: John P Moyle Cc: DennisMingear@netscape.net, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Rhino 3D Message-ID: <20010312.111525.-376079.0.jmoyle1@juno.com> Monday, March 12th, 2001 Jon, I think you'll like what you can do with Rhino 3D, we've created a CAD image of our prototype-in-development from the dimensions off of my drawings. It's a great visual tool, and the results can give you a much more accurate view of what the "little" changes we all consider making. My design is a single- seater for VERY large pilots (height, weight, width) with no parts or dimensions in common with the KR series, but using the new airfoil pioneered by the members of the KR-Net. I had started with the idea, like so many others, of simply modifying a KR-2S to suit my "big guy" needs, bit it soon became obvious that the end result was going to be a totally new airframe, so I started over with a clean sheet of paper on the drawing board. Rhino 3D helped by showing where the flaws in my 2 dimensional think lay, and by the time I got to revision # 7 I had what I wanted. If you care to cruise the other pages of this "faux site", please be advised that it is merely a mockup of a possible future web site. Just toying with some ideas, nothing to sell, don't take anything you see here too seriously ( YET!!). Enjoy your Rhino program, John Moyle Grand Aero Craft mailto:jmoyle1@juno.com On Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:48:43 -0500 Eckmstr@netscape.net ( IMA FLYER) writes: > Hello again KRNetheads, > I was watching battlebots last night and heard a builder mention > a modeling program for windows called Rhino 3D. I've done some > surfing and found a tutorial on how to model a plane ANY plane. It > starts out with a standard three view drawing (front, top and side) > and builds from there. Seems very straignt forward and I've > downloaded it with several of the tutorials as well. I'll make an > effort to put together a rendering of a KR2S in the layout I plane > to build. No this doesn't measure up to building a model (or the > Real Thing for that matter) but it may be a benifit for those here > that whould like to use it for paint schemes or whatever. I'll keep > you posted as to the progress. I'm also being blessed with a new 1.5 > gig Dell screamer here at work and this should help make things > happen much faster. Finally I'm looking into picking up a program > that can run FEA (finite element analysis) on various parts. This is > what was done on the new wing in order to develop it. But this d! > oesn't require a mainframe to accomplish just a fast (as in Very > Fast) workstation. It's still in the evaluation period but it looks > promising. More later. And as always...Be safe and watch yur 6. > Jon, Minneapolis > __________________________________________________________________ > Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at > http://webmail.netscape.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 14:29:12 -0500 To: , "John P Moyle" From: "George" Cc: , Subject: Re: KR> Rhino 3D Message-ID: <004101c0ab2a$b8b4b2c0$5a572ed8@megapathdsl.net> > I think you'll like what you can do with Rhino 3D, we've > created a CAD image of our prototype-in-development from John Moyle I am using Rhino 3D for over a year now to create my propellers. It has very easy to follow tutorial right in the help. Download fully working demo at http://www.rhino3d.com/ George ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:55:16 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Eckmstr@netscape.net ( IMA FLYER) Subject: Wiring ? Message-ID: <00244610.0AEB9EBA.00167451@netscape.net> Here’s a real question or two for anyone that might be able to help out. I have a spool of 250 ft of shielded instrumentation and computer cable. The label on the side of the box reads as follows. Shielded instrumentation and computer cable, 7 pair 24 AWG (.21mm) 7x#32(.03mm then a character that I can’t read) Tin Cu .010” (.25mm) S-R PVC Insul-Beldfoil, Shield 100% coverage overall. .035” (.89mm) PVC Jkted. - .300” O.D. CSA TYPE AWM : Appliance wiring material. : 80(degree symbol)C Use: for internal or interconnecting of Proc. Control, computers, business machines, electric equipment & X-ray machines. .300V 80(degree symbol)C. VW-1 Surface PRTD. AWM Style 2464 The wires come in 7 pairs and are color coded. Here are my questions. 1.) Will the wiring be suitable for use in wiring my panel, instmts, cabin lights and fans, etc? 2.) Will the foil shielding reduce RF problems when I install my radio, GPS and moving map? 3.) There is a bare wire wrapped around the outside of the foil just under the gray plastic covering is this the grounding wire and how is it used? This shows how little I know about electrical wiring. In any event I hope there’s someone out there that can help. Thanks much. And as always… Be safe and watch yur 6. Jon Minneapolis __________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:36:17 -0800 (PST) To: IMA FLYER , krnet@mailinglists.org From: doug d Subject: Re: KR> Wiring ? Message-ID: <20010312233617.30401.qmail@web11005.mail.yahoo.com> Hi... Just wanted to share my thoughts on the wire. It sounds to me like the wire will be a little too small for what you want to use it for, like lighting and such. I'm no expert, but the wiring I have done on lots of aircraft, including avionics install such as a wx 1000 weather radar system, used a little larger wire like 22gauge or 20 gauge wiring. You will find lots of 20 and 22 gauge, but not so much 24 gauge used in aircraft. It may be suitable for wiring up an instrument such as a gyro-horizon or something like that where several small wires are wired to a connector for an instrument like that. Otherwise, even the shielding won't matter that much. For just panel lights and such, you'll probably find just a teflon coated mil spec wire in 22 gauge, the easiest to work with. Many shops at FBO's and such even keep bundles of it laying around for "scrounge" that have been removed from something else. Wiring from a wind damaged or wrecked airplane can be a valuable source for cheap wire that is perfectly good. Maybe someone else will be able to offer "expert" advice, but this is my story and I'm stickin' to it!! Doug __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:11:16 -0800 (PST) To: IMA FLYER , krnet@mailinglists.org From: CS Subject: Re: KR> Wiring ? Message-ID: <20010313011116.17916.qmail@web2304.mail.yahoo.com> Hi John, > S-R PVC Insul-Beldfoil, Shield 100% coverage > overall. .035” (.89mm) > PVC Jkted. - .300” O.D. CSA TYPE AWM : Appliance > wiring material. ------------------- From the A.S.S. catalog pg 372 top-left: "There has been much discussion during the past few years about the use of wire with PVC in aircraft. The Air Force does not permit such wire to be used in military aircraft due to the toxic fumes generated in the event of a fire which can disable the crew." Although I often take FAA edicts with a grain of salt--if they were in charge of building codes we'd all be living in reinforced concrete bunkers--I think I might go with them on this one and avoid the PVC-jacketed wire. On the other hand, you're going to be flying in an airplane made largely of foam, not exactly known for it's benign properties during combustion. If you do decide to use it, double or triple up the separate wires, 24 ga. is too small for any substantial load. > 2.) Will the foil shielding reduce RF problems when > I install my radio, GPS and moving map? Yeah, ya need shielded wire...just maybe not this shielded wire. > 3.) There is a bare wire wrapped around the outside > of the foil just under the gray plastic covering is > this the grounding wire and how is it used? That wire is actually part of the shield and should itself be grounded, not as part of the ground for the device you are powering (although, ultimately, ground is ground). Chuck __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:04:19 -0500 To: From: "Cary Honeywell" Subject: Re: KR> Wiring ? Message-ID: <000e01c0ab61$ea1c6240$0205a8c0@home1.home> Having done a lot of avionics wiring, and seen the results of a fire where proper teflon wire wasn't used, I would stay away from it. It is very difficult to extinguish a wiring fire in the cockpit of a KR2 while in flight. You don't need the distraction. Just my own thoughts. - Cary - Cary Honeywell caryh@home.com ve3ev@rac.ca http://24.112.208.98 KR-2 http://24.112.208.98/kr2.shtml Ottawa Air Traffic http://24.112.208.98/demo3.ram -----Original Message----- From: IMA FLYER To: krnet@mailinglists.org Date: Monday, March 12, 2001 5:54 PM Subject: KR> Wiring ? >Here’s a real question or two for anyone that might be able to help out. I have a spool of 250 ft of shielded instrumentation and computer cable. The label on the side of the box reads as follows. > >Shielded instrumentation and computer cable, 7 pair 24 AWG (.21mm) >7x#32(.03mm then a character that I can’t read) Tin Cu .010” (.25mm) >S-R PVC Insul-Beldfoil, Shield 100% coverage overall. .035” (.89mm) >PVC Jkted. - .300” O.D. CSA TYPE AWM : Appliance wiring material. >: 80(degree symbol)C Use: for internal or interconnecting of Proc. Control, computers, business machines, electric equipment & X-ray machines. .300V 80(degree symbol)C. VW-1 Surface PRTD. AWM Style 2464 > >The wires come in 7 pairs and are color coded. Here are my questions. > >1.) Will the wiring be suitable for use in wiring my panel, instmts, cabin lights and fans, etc? >2.) Will the foil shielding reduce RF problems when I install my radio, GPS and moving map? >3.) There is a bare wire wrapped around the outside of the foil just under the gray plastic covering is this the grounding wire and how is it used? >This shows how little I know about electrical wiring. In any event I hope there’s someone out there that can help. >Thanks much. >And as always… Be safe and watch yur 6. Jon Minneapolis > >__________________________________________________________________ >Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 20:25:54 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Wiring ? Message-ID: <009e01c0ab64$ef3e7120$561cf618@600athlon> > 1.) Will the wiring be suitable for use in wiring my panel, instmts, cabin lights and fans, etc? The wiresize chart you need is located at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/wiresize.html , or on page 199 of Bengelis' red Fireall Forward book. You'll need to add up all those loads (or better yet, physically measure them with an ammeter) to know how much current each wire will need to support. You might notice that 24 gauge isn't even on the chart. And solid wire is more likely to break than stranded aircraft wire. Using too small a wire can lead to smoking insulation (when the breaker doesn't "see" enough load to trip), and if that insulation is the wrong kind, it's not good. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:37:48 EST To: aerobair@netc.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> Retractable KR1 gear Message-ID: <86.80a96eb.27dee1fc@cs.com> In a message dated 3/9/01 6:42:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, aerobair@netc.net writes: << Can someone tell me if these castings can be soldered and if not, if they are still on the market. RR offered me a fixed landing gear, witch solution I would not take for the moment. >> They CAN NOT be soldered. Why not make new ones from 4130? I do not want to give up my retracts either. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 23:19:32 -0500 To: "Krnet@Mailinglists. Org" From: aerobair Subject: Retractable KR 1 gear Message-ID: <3AAD9FD4.CBEBF183@netc.net> Many thanks to all of you guys who took the time to answer my quest. Many are going for the fixed gear on KR 2 s and have been offering their old gear for the price of the shipping. Unfortunately, I thank you all, but I would be very lucky if the holes in the brackets match with the holes in my spar. So I am thinking of using 4130 to build new brackets and clevis, at the suggestion of two guys that already did that, and forget about any possible cracking again. I'm still trying to find a 7075 bar around here (Montreal). Some KR owners are wondering if anybody else found cracks in their castings. If so, these guys would surely be glad to know as to prevent any bad surprise. Thanks again, the information some of you gave me is well appreciated.........Bob ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 23:02:08 -0800 To: kr From: Carter Pond Subject: KR1 forsale Message-ID: <3AADC5F0.7E8BFF06@home.com> Don Chishom 519-653-3282 KR1 ready for finial inspection. Don has changed direction and now wants a STOL performance A/C Asking 5K US A/C located in Cambridge Ontario Canada ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 22:19:50 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> KR1 forsale Message-ID: <00d601c0ab74$d9ee4100$561cf618@600athlon> > Don Chishom 519-653-3282 KR1 ready for finial inspection. Don has > changed direction and now wants a STOL performance A/C OK, I gotta just blurt it out. What could possibly make a man spend 18 years building an airplane and finally have it ready to fly, and then decide he doesn't need it after all? Don's the guy that published his thoughts on using rod end bearings for aileron and rudder hinges back in the June '83 Newsletter. I just don't get it. Besides, if you believe the RR data, the KR IS a STOL plane, with a takeoff roll of 350 feet, and a landing roll of 900 feet. Yes, it's obvious that I'm about to burn out, again... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************