From:
To:
Subject: krnet Digest 8 Apr 2001 23:25:07 -0000 Issue 204
Date: Sunday, April 08, 2001 4:25 PM
krnet Digest 8 Apr 2001 23:25:07 -0000 Issue 204
Topics (messages 4926 through 4948):
Re: she flys n1055a
4926 by: bob
Re: SNF
4927 by: Tom Crawford
4928 by: T152GMAN.aol.com
Re: Air Intake
4929 by: POND CARTER
Re: new to KR2
4930 by: Dale Baldwin
Re: 3 seater KR2
4931 by: Rick Hubka
windshield
4932 by: Dr. No
tri gear
4933 by: Berry Rennie
4935 by: Austin Clark
N998 MG update
4934 by: garbez
4936 by: Adrian
new airfoils
4937 by: Berry Rennie
4939 by: Mark Jones
2001 KR Gathering
4938 by: Jim Morehead
4940 by: Mark Jones
Re: new KR-2
4941 by: garbez
wanted Dragon fly canopy.
4942 by: POND CARTER
she flys debriefing
4943 by: Flymaca711689.cs.com
4944 by: CS
To Berry and other new folks...
4945 by: CS
loss of expertise
4946 by: w.g. kirkland
Re: flex-cable's
4947 by: w.g. kirkland
H.S. Dr. Dean style
4948 by: Timothy Brown
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 18:55:20 -0400
To: ,
From: "bob"
Subject: Re: KR> she flys n1055a
Message-ID: <001401c0beec$a88ac580$02000003@i4t4j9>
Sorry to here ya got banged up. Hope you get the new gear to work for you.
please keep us informed about the modification, and get well soon.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 21:34:56 -0500
To: Mark Langford
From: Tom Crawford
CC: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> SNF
Message-ID: <3ACE6EC0.4BEC@ufl.edu>
Mark Langford wrote:
>
> Jack asked how long we'd be at SNF. It's the height of tax season so Dana
> wants to get back early, so we're leaving for home on Monday, which is fine
> with me.
I will be flying 2TC to LAL in the AM (SAT). I have to fly out Sat.
evening, but will be back on Thursday, will stay until Sat. 04-14. Hope
to see some KR folks.
--
Tom Crawford
Gainesville, FL
N262TC
Mailto:toys@ufl.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 22:23:12 EDT
To: toys@ufl.edu, langford@hiwaay.net
From: T152GMAN@aol.com
CC: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> SNF
Message-ID: <71.c3e193b.27ffd410@aol.com>
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Are you guys going to be around for the kr dinner with great plains?
--part1_71.c3e193b.27ffd410_boundary--
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 22:49:13 -0700
To: Manager Bill , kr
From: POND CARTER
Subject: Re: Air Intake
Message-ID: <3ACEAA59.BC285743@home.com>
Thanks Bill for the detailed info that was exactly the info that I was
looking for!
I'm going to order the book too.
Carter
Two more months to take off!
Manager Bill wrote:
>
> Pond Carter and krnet
>
> Subject: Air Intake
>
> Pond:
>
> On April 3, you postyed a question about air ointake size on krnet. Kent
> Paser and I of EAA Chapter 301 discussed this problem quite a few years
> ago while he was doing speed mods on his Mustang II. You can read about
> it in his book, “Speed With Economy.” You can order directly from him or
> through EAA..
>
> All the air going into your C-65 goes through the carburetor opening.
> The engine is about 180 cubic inches and runs at about 2700 rpm. Assume
> 80 percent breathing efficiency and dividing by 2 because the intake
> valaves are open only half the time, you are pulling about 3240 cubic
> inches per second through the carburetor. Assume it has a 2 inch
> entrance diameter which is 3.142 squaree inches, so you are pulling air
> at close to 1000 inches per second. This is 83 feet per second, or just
> about 60 mph. So if you make your air inlet just 2 inches in diameter,
> you will be traying to ram more air into the inlet than the engine can
> breathe at any speed above 60 mph. So your 2 inch intake opening will
> push aside some the air that is trying to get into it. This is known as
> spillage drag. However, it is a lot less than the spillage due to trying
> to ram a 5 x 5.5 opening through the air.
>
> Furthermore, by slowing the air down before it enters the filter, you
> will reduce the pressure loss across the filter and will therefore get
> more pressure at the carburetor inlet, which will give you more power.
>
> So you need a reverse funnel (small end pointing forward) expanding from
> 2 inches to 5.5 inches with about 35 degrees included angle. This means
> a funnel about 3.5 inches long, or longer if you have the space in your
> cowling.
>
> For all you KR tinkerers, the current issue of Sport Aviation has an
> article by Mark Yelich, who used Kent’s book to improve his one-off
> BIPLANE from 120 mph to 170 mph. Remember, increasing power by 15
> percent only gives you a 5 percent increase in speed; decreasing drag by
> 15 percent gives you a 7.5 percent increase in speed.
>
> Bill Marcy
> Still staring at those cathode rays
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 04:48:30 -0400
To: "Berry Rennie" ,
From: "Dale Baldwin"
Subject: Re: KR> new to KR2
Message-Id: <20010407085057.NPIY18668.mtiwmhc22.worldnet.att.net@computername>
Berry,
IMHO by time you get done with the mods your
son wont be small any more. My 21 year old
son wasn't even born when I started at the point
you are at but thats another story. The tri gear
might be worthwhile and would be an easy
swap over, but stretching the fuselage at this
point, you might as well start over.
Sincerely, Dale Baldwin KR-2, hoping to fly this year....
----------
From: Berry Rennie
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: KR> new to KR2
Date: Friday, April 06, 2001 6:05 PM
I have just purchased a KR2 that has the boat stage and tail feathers
finished for the most part it was built as a taildragger with retractable
gear I am wondering if it is possible with out seriouslly risking my life
and others lives to modify this to a trigear with out rebuilding the
fuselage also I would like to strech the fuselage roughly 12'' to 16'' the
reason for this is I would like to be able to put a small seat for my son
in the rear to be able to fly all 3 of us around perhaps cross country I am
5'4'' weight 150pds my wife is5'1'' weight under 115pds my son is 2 not
much weight there I am looking at using a 13b rotary engine with mods to
shed some weight roughly 120 or so horses and I want to run wing tanks any
and all help is greatly appreciated also if anyone has and could give me a
copy of the 2s upgrade plans that would be appreciated thanks for having
this site for help Im sure you all will hear many questions as I take this
on once again thank you.
Berry Rennie
----------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 08:17:55 -0600
To: "Berry Rennie" ,
From: "Rick Hubka"
Subject: Re: 3 seater KR2
Message-ID: <001c01c0bf6d$8a8e5ca0$c5c5fea9@cg.shawcable.net>
Hi Berry
I don't want to sound mean or negative here and this is just my opinion.
With just the boat stage and tail feathers finished... you still have at
approx 2 to 15 years left on your project. Your son will be 5 to 18 years
when your finished. If the boats done and you're going to stretch it 12" to
16"... May as well start over. My boats done and I'm half done the tail (2
years to get that far). I just went in the garage and looked at it. To
stretch it 12" to 16"... I'd start over.
The KR2 was never designed to be a 3 seater and dispite the light weight of
you and your wife and son, you also have the C of G to contend with. Also
The area behind the spars is not structurally sound enough for a seat unless
major changes and added weight were to be implemented. When I think about
the seat installation and entry access changes..... yes "Major" changes.
If done... it may fail inspection and not fly.
My advice (because the foundation is done) is to build it the way is is and
enjoy building a 2 seat KR2 without an extra ?00 hours in mods.
Family can take turns flying with dad... Most of us all have families and
everyone will be taking turns...
Then again if you must have a 3 seater. maybe you sell your KR2 kit for
what you paid for it and look around some more.
Sorry for the negative advice Berry. I'm just trying to be honest and help
you make the right decision
Rick Hubka
rick@hubka.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Berry Rennie"
To:
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2001 4:05 PM
Subject: KR> new to KR2
I have just purchased a KR2 that has the boat stage and tail feathers
finished for the most part it was built as a taildragger with retractable
gear I am wondering if it is possible with out seriouslly risking my life
and others lives to modify this to a trigear with out rebuilding the
fuselage also I would like to strech the fuselage roughly 12'' to 16'' the
reason for this is I would like to be able to put a small seat for my son in
the rear to be able to fly all 3 of us around perhaps cross country I am
5'4'' weight 150pds my wife is5'1'' weight under 115pds my son is 2 not much
weight there I am looking at using a 13b rotary engine with mods to shed
some weight roughly 120 or so horses and I want to run wing tanks any and
all help is greatly appreciated also if anyone has and could give me a copy
of the 2s upgrade plans that would be appreciated thanks for having this
site for help Im sure you all will hear many questions as I take this on
once again thank you.
Berry Rennie
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 11:49:42 -0500
To: krnet
From: "Dr. No"
Subject: windshield
Message-ID: <3ACF451D.1CA2D0D6@pol.net>
Could any of you with a wrapped windshield provide approximate
dimensions of Plexiglas you used?
Thanks,
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 14:16:45 -0400
To:
From: "Berry Rennie"
Subject: tri gear
Message-ID: <001401c0bf8e$e86888c0$efa30ad8@yohan>
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Ok Ive decided that stretching the fuselage is a lot of work and a bad =
idea but what about converting from the taildragger to a tri gear anyone =
have an idea as to where to start and or possibly a web site that could =
help with pics possibly all help appreciated this may seem like a dumb =
question but like I said before totally new to this and want to do it =
right. =20
Berry Rennie
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0BF6D.6031F0C0--
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 17:52:14 -0500
To: "Berry Rennie" ,
From: "Austin Clark"
Subject: Re: KR> tri gear
Message-ID: <001701c0bfb5$64ccc0e0$0100a8c0@mshome.net>
Dielaero has a trigear kit for the KR. Here is a link the their site.
http://www.diehlaero.com/landing.htm
Austin Clark
http://www.datasync.com/~itac/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Berry Rennie"
To:
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2001 1:16 PM
Subject: KR> tri gear
Ok Ive decided that stretching the fuselage is a lot of work and a bad idea
but what about converting from the taildragger to a tri gear anyone have an
idea as to where to start and or possibly a web site that could help with
pics possibly all help appreciated this may seem like a dumb question but
like I said before totally new to this and want to do it right.
Berry Rennie
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 18:57:59 -0500
To: "KR-POST"
From: "garbez"
Subject: N998 MG update
Message-ID: <001401c0bfbe$af4b1a00$fb5cfea9@msgtlg.netins.net>
Well I have loaded my KR on the trailer and tomorrow I am taking her back to
the airport. Today was out of the question as we had wind gusts of 50 to 65
miles per hour. I am going to test it on the ground for a few hours and if
everything is well I am back in the air! For you that don't know I have
already flown my KR-2 with an 1835 and now it has the type 4 rear drive
2600cc the difference in horse power should be incredible. Will post flight
data as soon as I get it in the air.
Mike Garbez N998MG
Griswold, IA
msgtlg@netins.net
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 19:27:19 -0600
To: garbez
From: Adrian
CC: KR-POST
Subject: Re: KR> N998 MG update
Message-ID: <3ACFBE77.43CF7729@cuug.ab.ca>
Good show Mike, this should give a good comparison. Looking forward to
your report.
garbez wrote:
>
> Well I have loaded my KR on the trailer and tomorrow I am taking her back to
> the airport. Today was out of the question as we had wind gusts of 50 to 65
> miles per hour. I am going to test it on the ground for a few hours and if
> everything is well I am back in the air! For you that don't know I have
> already flown my KR-2 with an 1835 and now it has the type 4 rear drive
> 2600cc the difference in horse power should be incredible. Will post flight
> data as soon as I get it in the air.
>
> Mike Garbez N998MG
> Griswold, IA
> msgtlg@netins.net
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org
>
> To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org
--
Adrian VE6AFY
Calgary, Alberta
Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca
http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 21:50:49 -0400
To:
From: "Berry Rennie"
Subject: new airfoils
Message-ID: <001001c0bfce$7be2c040$1c535c40@yohan>
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Ok my plane has the boat stage finished as well as the tail feathers it =
was all built to the planes. I hear a lot about the new airfoils but not =
sure what to go with the AS5045, AS5046, AS5048 should I build this new =
airfoil since mine have not even been started the winglets on the =
fuselage are already constructed to the raf foil will that be a big =
problem? also should I rebuild the tail feathers? all input appreciated.
Berry Rennie
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 21:43:27 -0500
To: Berry Rennie
From: Mark Jones
CC: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> new airfoils
Message-ID: <3ACFD04F.768BA4A5@execpc.com>
Berry,
Converting to the AS5046 airfoil is your design of choice since you have the center spars already. The aft spar will have to be raised approximately 3/4" above the lower longeron to give you a one degree incidence. I too had built mine with intentions of going with the RAF until the AS came out and I saw the light in the laminar flow vs the RAF. I have some good shots and info on the conversion on my web site
http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage and then there is Mark Langford's site http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/airfoil.html on the airfoil and then if that is not enough, here are installation procedures offered by Mark Langford
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/tet/as5046inst.html As far as redoing the tail feathers, I would recommend increasing the size of them to give you more pitch stability. If and when you order a set of AS airfoil plans from Trailing Edge Technology http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/tet/as5046inst.html you will also receive a set of horizontal and vertical stabilizer plans which I feel are far superior to the stock Rand
version.
Mark Jones
Berry Rennie wrote:
> Ok my plane has the boat stage finished as well as the tail feathers it was all built to the planes. I hear a lot about the new airfoils but not sure what to go with the AS5045, AS5046, AS5048 should I build this new airfoil since mine have not even been started the winglets on the fuselage are already constructed to the raf foil will that be a big problem? also should I rebuild the tail feathers? all input appreciated.
>
> Berry Rennie
--
Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI USA
E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 18:53:53 -0700
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: "Jim Morehead"
Subject: 2001 KR Gathering
Netter's
What is the date for the 2001 KR Gathering, and who is the contact
person?
Jim Morehead
Cameron Park, CA
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 21:48:16 -0500
To: Jim Morehead
From: Mark Jones
CC: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> 2001 KR Gathering
Message-ID: <3ACFD170.3921F2D6@execpc.com>
The "Official" 2001 KR Gathering will be in Pine Bluff, Arkansas, with
Tommy Waymack hosting the affair this time around.
The dates will be 21, 22, and 23 September and we will get you the
information as soon as we know. We will have the same
hangar that we had in 1997. We will try to use the Best Western Motel at
The Pines Mall again but Tommy asks you wait to
make your reservations for him to set up a block of rooms and work out a
discount with the management. Pine Bluff is located
about 40 miles south of Little Rock, Arkansas at the end of Interstate
530.
You can expect about 10-25 KRs to fly in for the Gathering, depending on
weather. This is THE place to put your hands on
real KR aircraft so don't miss it! Most everybody that wants a ride in one
gets it. You won't likely forget it soon either. We will
once again have dinner catered Friday evening along with lunch on
Saturday.
Jim Morehead wrote:
> Netter's
> What is the date for the 2001 KR Gathering, and who is the contact
> person?
>
> Jim Morehead
> Cameron Park, CA
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org
>
> To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org
--
Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI USA
E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 23:34:51 -0500
To: "KR-POST"
From: "garbez"
Subject: Re: new KR-2
Message-ID: <000501c0bfe5$46e98920$fb5cfea9@msgtlg.netins.net>
Berry wrote:
Ok Ive decided that stretching the fuselage is a lot of work and a bad idea
but what about converting from the taildragger to a tri gear anyone have an
idea as to where to start and or possibly a web site that could help with
pics possibly all help appreciated this may seem like a dumb question but
like I said before totally new to this and want to do it right.
Berry Rennie
Berry,
converting the KR-2 to tri gear is very easy.
I bought my KR the same way you did and it had the retracts stuff under it.
First thing you do is just remove all the tail dragger stuff that is bolted
to the spars, leave the wood they epoxied in place. It just gives you more
strength on the main spar and it won't hurt anything and if they already put
the hole in the side of the fuselage for the spring bar that's OK your stub
wings will cover this hole anyway and the hole will be a good place to run
your brake lines and such. Now you need to call Dan Diehl at 918-299-4445
he makes the tri-gear set up for the KR-2. Once you get it and read the
instruction you will find it very simple to install. You can see my KR-2 on
the Great Plains Aircraft Supply web site which is www.greatplainsas.com
scroll to the bottom of the page and click on Mike Garbez's KR-2
Good Luck,
Mike Garbez N998MG
Griswold, IA
msgtlg@netins.net
(712) 778-2449
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 08:14:19 -0700
To: kr
From: POND CARTER
Subject: wanted Dragon fly canopy.
Message-ID: <3AD0804B.718DC974@home.com>
If any one has a canopy that they would like to sell or knows of one
please email me direct
Carter
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 10:23:00 EDT
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: Flymaca711689@cs.com
Subject: she flys debriefing
Message-ID: <87.95eff10.2801ce44@cs.com>
i called dan deli for help on the nose gear problem sense he made my first
nose gear to replace the fiberglass one he thanks it may be conv gear legs
turn around. idont no who installed gear to replace the retracts. nose gear
weight is 150 LB with header tank full he's making new one thicker wall epoxy
filled. my low rpms were due to timing needed advance. me getting cut was
dum!!! growing up around airplanes safety is #1 have become relaxed about no
shoulder harness old aircraft just did not have them. all change my thinking
on this. damage nose gear prop spinner must replace crank repair lower cowl
under 800 dollars all be back in air in month. cant wait!!!!!! on grass all
that pitch talk is bullshit !!!! it fly's great just relax swift is much
harder to fly then kr2 take off landing is like a aircoupe .
mac bb sport
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 07:35:44 -0700 (PDT)
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: CS
Subject: Re: KR> she flys debriefing
Message-ID: <20010408143544.18179.qmail@web13903.mail.yahoo.com>
Hi,
Based on your earlier experience, maybe you mean...
She flys de-briefly?
Chuck
--- Flymaca711689@cs.com wrote:
> i called dan deli for help on the nose gear problem
> sense he made my first
> nose gear to replace the fiberglass one he thanks it
> may be conv gear legs
> turn around. idont no who installed gear to replace
> the retracts. nose gear
> weight is 150 LB with header tank full he's making
> new one thicker wall epoxy
> filled. my low rpms were due to timing needed
> advance. me getting cut was
> dum!!! growing up around airplanes safety is #1 have
> become relaxed about no
> shoulder harness old aircraft just did not have
> them. all change my thinking
> on this. damage nose gear prop spinner must replace
> crank repair lower cowl
> under 800 dollars all be back in air in month. cant
> wait!!!!!! on grass all
> that pitch talk is bullshit !!!! it fly's great just
> relax swift is much
> harder to fly then kr2 take off landing is like a
> aircoupe .
>
> mac bb sport
>
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
> To UNsubscribe, e-mail:
> krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
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>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 09:23:27 -0700 (PDT)
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: CS
Subject: To Berry and other new folks...
Message-ID: <20010408162327.10674.qmail@web13901.mail.yahoo.com>
Hi Berry,
I decided to make this an open letter as it might help
other new folks. Remember, when you reply offline the
majority of KRNet loses your input. Obviously if
you're selling something, making travel/meeting
arrangements, etc., offline is appropriate. So here's
the open letter to new folks (hate the term "newbie.")
-------------------------------------------
Hi Berry...
That's one thing you can say for being new...everyone
else has been there. I was...about 4-5 weeks ago.
First, if you're serious about a KR, go here:
http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/index.html?by=Date
and read all the way through. You'll be surprised how
many of your questions have already been asked. I
was.
Next, go here:
http://www.krnet.org/
Try to spend a while exploring this site. Make it a
point to check out individual builder's homepages.
Not only will this answer a lot of questions, it will
also give you new ideas and approaches to things you
probably haven't even thought of yet.
Last on the "required reading" list, go here...
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/kr2s.html
Be warned, this is a "graphics-intensive" site, not
because Mark is into "Flash-Shock-Whiz-bang," but
because everything is profusely illustrated. I
spent a week or so trying to absorb the info on this
site, and finally said screw it and downloaded the
whole damn thing to my hard drive while I browsed
other
sites.
Also be warned that there are some fairly accomplished
people on KRNet, and they generally don't suffer
fools gladly. You are expected to do the majority of
your own legwork. A question like "I'm thinking of
using a small header tank being fed by wing tanks, has
anyone had problems with this?" will probably get 6-8
informative responses. A question like, "I want to
build a KR 2S, what's the best engine?" will be
virtually ignored.
Finally, just some gratuitious advice to a newbie (I
meant "new guy or gal"), be prepared for "flame wars."
The KR world seems to be divided into two fairly
well-defined camps, the "stockers" vs the "mods."
Stick around long enough and you will see what I mean.
I advise you do like me...lay low, keep your mouth
shut, your ears open and your head down, and learn
what you can from both camps. For the record, I'm a
mod. But "Engineer Bill," who I consider a stocker,
is one of the most valuable sources of hard engineered
data that I have seen.
I'm done, that's my advice to a newbie (such as
myself). Read all you can, follow every link, do a
Google search on "Rand-Robinson"...the usual research
stuff. Buy books about plane design. But remember,
it's your plane. Every engineering/design issue
involves a trade-off...you decide what is important to
you. This is the plane that YOU will fly--and
possibly die--in. Think long and hard before every
decision. EVERY decision you make has long-term
implications on how your plane performs.
Chuck
PS...if you stick around long enough, you will find
out who the "gurus" are. I, and they, and everybody
else knows who they are, so I won't list them here.
Pay attention to these folks, even if their advice
conflicts with your design parameters. This place is
like a free aerodynamics-engineering class.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 19:28:10 -0400
To: "krnet"
From: "w.g. kirkland"
Subject: loss of expertise
Message-ID: <103f01c0c04d$dabfedc0$79905bd1@kirkland>
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Steve; Dana Stick around, 99 percent of the members really appreciate =
your contribution and your expertise. I know I do.
"everyone is entitled to behave badly once in a while; some just abuse =
the privilege!
W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND
kirkland@vianet.on.ca
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Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 21:01:41 -0400
To: "Brian. P Vasseur" ,
From: "w.g. kirkland"
Cc:
Subject: Re: KR> flex-cable's
Message-ID: <104401c0c04d$dfc1aac0$79905bd1@kirkland>
I would have to concur with Brian. The throttle cable on my 150 did just
that, after 11,000 hrs, and jammed. To fix it we just pulled the inner cable
out and put in a new one. Interesting idea though and looking at other
vehicles can produce some good ideas. Snowmobile engines for instance,
light, aircooled and many produce over 100 hp. There is motor up/down trim
position indicator on boats that might be good for a flap position
indicator, I keep eyeing the front forks on bikes, with their shock absorber
, for my nosewheel. I have a 2/1 planetary gear set from an old mustang
trany that would make a nice reduction unit.
W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND
kirkland@vianet.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian. P Vasseur"
To:
Cc:
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: KR> flex-cable's
> I think you need to realize there's aircraft cables and lawnmower cables.
> The aircraft cables are a sealed unit (you have to get them made to a
> specific length), are teflon coated or smoothness and have an adjustment
> range on each end. It's not necessary to secure them other than the
locknut
> fitting at each end, so they can be routed in any direction. The
straighter
> they are the smoother they are but that goes without saying.
>
> Another post said they had to be secured every few inches which is false.
As
> long as the two ends of the sheath are secure what happens in the middle
is
> irrelevant.
>
> Philip Heavirland wrote:
> >Flex-cable's have a surprise they can break off a single stand inside the
> >housing,and it can lock the to go one diction only.Pheavirland@msn.com
>clear=all>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at >href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com
> --
> Brian. P Vasseur -- vasseurb@cadvision.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 16:25:06 -0700 (PDT)
To: Group KR NET
From: Timothy Brown
Subject: H.S. Dr. Dean style
Message-ID: <20010408232506.24270.qmail@web9504.mail.yahoo.com>
Dear All:
I am using Dr. Dean's hinge plan for my H.S. I was
just in my workshop getting all lined up with the
elevator when a problem (I think) came up.
First, I have to install the hardware before the foam.
This creates a problem with the piece of foam up
against the elevator, what with the bearings in place.
It seems that it would be next to impossible to sand
a nice curve to mate the elevator with the bearings in
place. (I am going with 7).
My thought is to remove the bearings, epoxy (with 5
minute stuff) the washers in place for the bearings,
then do the same with the foam. I could then sand the
curve to near perfect, (or a reasonable facsimile
thereof), run the bolts through the spar and foam,
remove the bolts, enlarge the holes to accept the
bearings and screw them on. Then I could foam the
interior and leading edge.
Of course, one problem with this would be the delicate
nature of the sanded foam on the bearing side until I
got it glassed.
With respect to the sanding, I know Mark used PVC but
building "stock" places a taper done to 5/8". For
sanding purposes, would one use a 1/2" ID piece and
maybe something larger for the center area?
I hope someone out there has solved this dilemma
already and has some helpful hints.
Tim
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