From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 21 Aug 2001 00:41:50 -0000 Issue 272 Date: Monday, August 20, 2001 5:42 PM krnet Digest 21 Aug 2001 00:41:50 -0000 Issue 272 Topics (messages 6404 through 6433): Re: rudder 6404 by: Mark Jones 6408 by: Mark Langford 6419 by: virgnvs.juno.com Re: Sand Paper? 6405 by: Tim Brown 6407 by: Donald Reid 6413 by: Tlongcrier.aol.com 6414 by: Mark Langford Micro slurry / gas spring 6406 by: larry flesner control cable 6409 by: Hafsteinn Jonasson 6410 by: Mark Jones 6411 by: Hafsteinn Jonasson Re: 2400 VW CHT temps 6412 by: Tom Crawford 6428 by: GARYKR2.cs.com Re: gas spring 6415 by: Mark Langford 6420 by: Philip J. Visconti 6426 by: dene.collett Re: KR newsletters 6416 by: Paul H Mueller 6417 by: Mark Langford Re: TRI GEAR ? 6418 by: David Sandpaper 6421 by: Peter Johnson 6427 by: cartera.cuug.ab.ca KR-2 has been sold 6422 by: Schmidt, Curtis GAS SPRINGS 6423 by: Philip J. Visconti Re: KR Gathering 6424 by: Eckmstr.netscape.net First accident-And I'm not even flying 6425 by: Carson Cassidy Some Thoughts on Rudder Horn Length 6429 by: Peter Johnson 6433 by: Mark Langford Weekend Flying, Almost Bit The Dust. 6430 by: GARYKR2.cs.com Small world 6431 by: Frank Ross Problem with Spar Varnish 6432 by: Daniel Heath Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 22:23:34 -0500 To: Tim Brown , Group KR NET From: Mark Jones Subject: Re: KR> rudder Message-ID: <3B7F3136.472594A1@execpc.com> That should read....Mark Langford took a good close up photo... Mark Jones wrote: > Hello Tim, > I am using the Dr. Dean hinge and horn arrangement. The rudder horn I have > is made from 1" aluminum t-bar. The rudder cable attach holes are on 6" > centers. Mark Langford took a good clasp photo of the horn when he was at my > house during EAA Airventure (Oshkosh) and maybe he will post the photo for > all to see. > Mark Jones > > Tim Brown wrote: > > > Can anyone give me some idea of the length of > > their rudder horn? I am guessing something like > > 6". > > > > I am using the Dr. Dean hinge arrangement so I am > > thinking of using 1" x 1" L metal removing most > > of one leg except for where I need to bolt it > > under the hinge, > > > > All thoughts and ideas are welcome. > > > > Tim > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger > > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > > -- > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 09:01:51 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Cc: "Group KR NET" Subject: Re: KR> rudder Message-ID: <000901c128b7$7f23bfa0$7000a8c0@athlon600> Mark Jones wrote: > Mark Langford took a good close-up photo of the horn when he was at my > house during EAA Airventure (Oshkosh) and maybe he will post the photo for > all to see. Well, I don't know if it was a "good" close-up photo, but it's at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/osh2001/01072408.jpg ... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 21:07:02 -0400 To: timwbrown@yahoo.com From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> rudder Message-ID: <20010819.211947.-122891.0.virgnvs@juno.com> I thought that dimension was given in the plans, Virg On Sat, 18 Aug 2001 18:45:30 -0700 (PDT) Tim Brown writes: > Can anyone give me some idea of the length of > their rudder horn? I am guessing something like > 6". > > I am using the Dr. Dean hinge arrangement so I am > thinking of using 1" x 1" L metal removing most > of one leg except for where I need to bolt it > under the hinge, > > All thoughts and ideas are welcome. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! > Messenger > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other > system! > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 21:34:55 -0700 (PDT) To: POND CARTER , kr From: Tim Brown Subject: Re: KR> Sand Paper? Message-ID: <20010819043455.87827.qmail@web9505.mail.yahoo.com> I buy the "contractor's pack" (25 sheets) at Home Depot, but they are 9 x 11. Tim --- POND CARTER wrote: > Hi KR netter. > OK where can i buy sand paper in larger numbers > than 10 sheets at $4 a > pack. I going to go broke just sanding. Can you > buy larger sheets than 9 > x 11? > So this is what you guys were complaining > about. > Sand...fill...sand...fill ....sands some more. > The cowling looks great though time consuming. > Good thing it's not winter my family would not > be able to find me should > i fall in the snow after sanding. > > Signed > The Powder White Guy...At least I can't smell > it with the filter mask on > . > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: > krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so > use some other system! > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 09:42:13 -0400 To: From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> Sand Paper? Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.0.20010819093919.00a04640@pop.erols.com> --=====================_942592==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 10:39 PM 8/18/2001 -0700, POND CARTER wrote: >Hi KR netter. >OK where can i buy sand paper in larger numbers than 10 sheets at $4 a >pack. I going to go broke just sanding. Can you buy larger sheets than 9 >x 11? That is probably the most expensive way to buy sandpaper. Try Industrial Abrasives, Inc. 1-800-428-2222 or on-line at http://www.industrialabrasives.com I use the 3" wide shop rolls and glue them onto various lengths of sanding block. Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org --=====================_942592==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 15:26:04 EDT To: timwbrown@yahoo.com, carterkr2s1@home.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Tlongcrier@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Sand Paper? Message-ID: --part1_e5.aeccb05.28b16ccc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try: Klingspors Sanding Catalogue 856 21st St. Dr. SE P. O. Box 3737 Hickory, NC 28603 1 800 228 0000 Sorry, I do not have a web address. T --part1_e5.aeccb05.28b16ccc_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 14:34:35 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Sand Paper? Message-ID: <001201c128e5$fa7b9730$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> > Klingspors Sanding Catalogue > 856 21st St. Dr. SE > P. O. Box 3737 > Hickory, NC 28603 > > 1 800 228 0000 > > Sorry, I do not have a web address. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/ Google comes to the rescue once again... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 07:11:36 -0500 To: kr From: larry flesner Subject: Micro slurry / gas spring Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20010819071136.0088bc60@pop3.norton.antivirus> At 10:18 AM 8/17/01 -0500, Peg and Mike Meyer wrote: >I have been experimenting with some possible solutions to the dry micro >rolls-up-into-a-big-ball-can't-spread-this-crap-around-I'm-really-getting-pi >ssed-off problem +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Mike and Netters, I've used the dry micro in the past for fill but wanted something more "consistent" from batch to batch. I tried the "super fill" and thought it sanded great but was a bit on the dry side when applying. After using up the first small amount I purchased, I was ready to break in to the gallon size I came home with from last years Gathering. The instructions on the can reminded me to mix it well before using and that really made a difference. I mixed each can well to a creamy smoothness before combining and the difference was amazing. I also found the trick to applying that may also work for dry micro. I use a 6" rubber squeegee (from Wicks) and on the first pass with the fill I use lots of pressure and a very shallow angle with the squeegee as if I'm trying to wipe all the fill back off that I'm applying. Sometimes it takes a second quick swipe. The result is that the epoxy in the fill wets the area to be filled and then the fill sticks just fine. I can apply to any thickness I want with no "roll up into a ball" action from the fill. On gas springs: I spent the better part of three days this week measuring, running to Auto Zone, building brackets, and installing three different gas springs on my gullwing door and not really happy with any of them. First one too weak, next one too strong, third one about right but stroke not right so need a "special" bracket to work properly. After finally saying " that's going to have to be good enough", I found the "Goldielox" (sp?) fix of "just right" had been setting in my driveway the entire time. The gas springs on my pickup truck's topper glass door were absolutely P E R F E C T and there were two of them so I have a spare !! I guess the moral of this fairy tale is "don't ever stop looking for the right answer, it's out there somewhere". Larry (getting so close now I can smell it ) Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 14:50:07 -0000 To: From: haffi@vortex.is (Hafsteinn Jonasson) Subject: control cable Message-ID: <003f01c128be$3d8afa20$4544dcd5@c0g3t9> ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C128BE.3CD25880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable What type of control cable are you guys using? --- Hafsteinn J=F3nasson haffi@vortex.is ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C128BE.3CD25880-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 11:07:59 -0500 To: Hafsteinn Jonasson From: Mark Jones CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> control cable Message-ID: <3B7FE45F.1910FB24@execpc.com> As the plans state: 3/32 x 7 x 19. Mark Jones Hafsteinn Jonasson wrote: > What type of control cable are you guys using? > --- > Hafsteinn Jónasson > haffi@vortex.is -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 16:27:53 -0000 To: "Mark Jones" From: haffi@vortex.is (Hafsteinn Jonasson) Cc: Subject: Re: KR> control cable Message-ID: <001701c128cb$e665fc00$7f44dcd5@c0g3t9> Thanks, but can you tell me on what page it is in the manual, I searched like crazy but couldn't find it! ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Jones To: Hafsteinn Jonasson Cc: Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 4:07 PM Subject: Re: KR> control cable > As the plans state: 3/32 x 7 x 19. > Mark Jones > > Hafsteinn Jonasson wrote: > > > What type of control cable are you guys using? > > --- > > Hafsteinn Jónasson > > haffi@vortex.is > > -- > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 13:36:14 -0400 To: Kevin Lampon From: Tom Crawford CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> 2400 VW CHT temps Message-ID: <3B7FF90E.518E@ufl.edu> Kevin Lampon wrote: > > Does anyone know the operating temps for CHT and EGT the 2400cc VW engine? > > Thanks, > Kevin CHT limits should be the same as any other VW's, but you will probably find that your T4 CHT's will run lower than T1's due the the larger cooling fins on the head. As far as EGT, it's all relative to your max EGT, but as for a number, mine stays around 1300 at 75% power. -- Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Flying N???TC Wings Mailto:toys@ufl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:33:53 EDT To: klampon@amexol.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> 2400 VW CHT temps Message-ID: In a message dated 8/17/01 3:46:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, klampon@amexol.net writes: << Does anyone know the operating temps for CHT and EGT the 2400cc VW engine? >> Call Steve Bennett at Great Planes. He will know. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 15:24:14 -0500 To: "kr" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> gas spring Message-ID: <002701c128ec$ea67d230$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> Here's something I wrote a while back on the gas spirngs that hold my canopy open: Canopy struts have been installed. They're each rated at 20 pounds of force when extended, and have internal valving to slow extension considerably. I got them from Magnus Mobility Systems in Orange, CA at (714) 771-2630. Part number is 752940. They are 585mm long extended, with a 250mm stroke (the best ratio I could find). They are made by Stabilus, and have the familiar trade name of Lift-o-mat (TM). You'll also need four ball studs (#102431). I figured for such nice struts, I was going to pay dearly, but they were only $17 each. That sure beats the $5 each that I paid for some from the junkyard, which turned out to exert 60 lbs of force each! They would have catapulted my 18 pound canopy half way to town. Magnus is at http://www.magnusinc.com/ ... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 22:28:25 -0400 To: langford@hiwaay.net From: "Philip J. Visconti" Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> gas spring Message-ID: <20010819.222914.-313107.3.viscan@juno.com> Mark, I used springs from junkyard and got pressure to level I wanted by using trick from Ireland KR builder. Phil ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:09:15 +0200 To: , "Philip J. Visconti" From: "dene.collett" Cc: Subject: Re: KR> gas spring Message-ID: <009001c129b9$fb6874e0$edeacba3@dean> ----- Original Message ----- From: Philip J. Visconti To: Cc: Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 04:28 Subject: Re: KR> gas spring > Mark, > > I used springs from junkyard and got pressure to level I wanted by using > trick from Ireland KR builder. > > Phil Regarding gas struts, I bought mine from a company that supplies canopies for pick up trucks. as bought they have not been gas charged yet and only exert spring force. Once the canopy is installed properly, all I have to do is remove them and take them back to the supplier who has a simple clamp in which the strut is held while it is filled to any pressure by forcing it past the seal. This way, I can start with minimum pressure and keep returning for a little more untill I am happy with it. Dene Collett South Africa ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 15:26:57 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Paul H Mueller Subject: Re: KR newsletters Message-ID: <20010819.152658.-16541213.0.phmuel@juno.com> We have successfully downloaded the early KR Newsletter file set up by John Bouyea. I greatly appreciate his making them available on the KRnet. My daughter and some of her friends were a great help to me also. What I think we have learned is first that 65 mb takes a tremendous amount of RAM to download and to open since I am told that in addition to the 65 mb file, it takes another 25 mb or so for the Acrobat to operate. With anything at all open in addition, I was out of memory. Then we could not save it in addition. Finally a friend was able to save it for me and was able to break it down to several blocks so that now I have easy access to the smaller blocks. We were able to use both Acrobat 4.0 and 5.0. I offer this as it may help others who may have had difficulty gaining access to the file. I have been trying for a couple of years to download the material and now have already found some very helpful information. Again, my thanks to John Bouyea and the KR net for making it available. ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 15:32:21 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR newsletters Message-ID: <003901c128ee$0cc83760$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> > What I think we have learned is first that 65 mb takes a tremendous > amount of RAM to download and to open since I am told that in addition to > the 65 mb file, it takes another 25 mb or so for the Acrobat to operate. > With anything at all open in addition, I was out of memory. Then we > could not save it in addition. That's really my fault. Mark Lougheed is the guy that went to the trouble of scanning all these into Acrobat and posting them on the web originally. After Fortunecity did whatever it did to render it inacessible, I put the 65 meg file out there, but Mark also created a version of these that's broken down into individual files, making the whole thing a whole lot easier to deal with. I didn't realize that the big file was going to be such a problem (once downloaded), since I have a load of RAM. I'll send John the little files and the "front end" and make it easier on you guys. Give me a couple of days... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 16:30:31 -0700 To: From: "David" Subject: Fw: TRI GEAR ? Message-ID: <002e01c12906$f13046a0$25c1fc9e@david> ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C128CC.43DED140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable -----Original Message----- From: David To: krnet@mailinglists.org Date: Sunday, August 19, 2001 4:10 PM Hi anyone, this thing work?? first time here. I am looking to convert a = KR2 conventional into a trike. Anyone have the general info on this?? or = where to get this info? Thx Dave avstar1@earthlink.net ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C128CC.43DED140-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 21:56:02 -0700 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Sandpaper Message-ID: <003201c12934$89401100$3209eccf@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C128F9.BD533840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable From spending WAY to many years on the wrong side a sanding board, I'd = like to contribute a little bit more to this sandpaper thread. First, sandpaper is made of two components, namely the paper, and the = abrasive. The paper part of sandpaper is graded by the weight of the = paper: 'A' grade paper is like note book paper, flexible, but prone to = wrinkling easily. 'D' weight paper is like light cardboard, tough to = flex around a really curvy part, but tough enough to last till the = abrasive is worn out. The abrasive portion of the paper comes in a variety. For use on wood, = plain old garnet sandpaper will do just fine. For dry use on epoxy, = aluminum oxide is the only way to go (unless someone has found something = better), and it lasts for ever. For wet sanding, silicon dioxide with a = waterproof paper is quite common. One thing must be kept in mind if = using silicon dioxide sandpaper for wet sanding (it doesn't work worth = beans dry), is that the sanding residue must be cleaned off thoroughly! = If you want to paint a surface, would you like to be leaving little bits = of silicone on the surface? 'nuff said.... So, buy 'C' of heavier sandpaper so the paper lasts, and use aluminum = oxide paper so the abrasive lasts. When looking for paper, don't bother = with the retail outlets like Home Hardware or Canadian Tire, go instead = to Acklands or similar commercial or industrial supplier. A good sheet = of paper will cost about fifty cents CDN at places like this and it'll = last twice as long as the stuff you buy for fifty cents at the = 'consumer' places. Buy it by the 100 sheet pack. Now if you want BULL TOUGH sandpaper.... check out the floor finishing = paper that commercial wood floor installers use (again, available at a = commercial or industrial supply house). 3M makes a sandpaper, 'Resinite = Floor Finishing Sandpaper', and it is TOUGH! It is an alumininum oxide = abrasive on 'E' weight paper. It's black in colour, comes in the = standard grits from 36G up to 240G, and comes in 12" and 24" wide rolls. = Not for the faint of heart this stuff, if you wanted to sand an = airplane out of a block of epoxy this is what you would use. =20 Hope this helps someone. If anyone would like to chat more about = sanding, please drop me an email..... mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C128F9.BD533840-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:38:21 -0600 To: Peter Johnson From: cartera@cuug.ab.ca CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Sandpaper Message-ID: <3B81753D.4885974F@cuug.ab.ca> Hello Gang, What Peter says is all true, places mentioned we also my source for sandpaper, one more not mentioned is a glazier, glass place, they trim edges on glass and if this can be done on glass it can be done on composites. Most of all of my sanding was done with a Makita pad/palm sander, I even replaced one series of bearings and brushes in the Makita. After a while one gets very good with the palm and you get to know just how much sanding you can do. I would take a whole afternoon and cut up my sandpaper to fit the pad, because when I started I did not want to stop to cut bulk sandpaper. Another safety tip, is never, never, never sand without a protective breathing mask!!!! Good Luck, Happy Building and Flying! AC Peter Johnson wrote: > > >From spending WAY to many years on the wrong side a sanding board, I'd like to contribute a little bit more to this sandpaper thread. > > The abrasive portion of the paper comes in a variety. For use on wood, plain old garnet sandpaper will do just fine. For dry use on epoxy, aluminum oxide is the only way to go (unless someone has found something better), and it lasts for ever. For wet sanding, silicon dioxide with a waterproof paper is quite common. One thing must be kept in mind if using silicon dioxide sandpaper for wet sanding (it doesn't work worth beans dry), is that the sanding residue must be cleaned off thoroughly! If you want to paint a surface, would you like to be leaving little bits of silicone on the surface? 'nuff said.... > > So, buy 'C' of heavier sandpaper so the paper lasts, and use aluminum oxide paper so the abrasive lasts. When looking for paper, don't bother with the retail outlets like Home Hardware or Canadian Tire, go instead to Acklands or similar commercial or industrial supplier. A good sheet of paper will cost about fifty cents CDN at places like this and it'll last twice as long as the stuff you buy for fifty cents at the 'consumer' places. Buy it by the 100 sheet pack. > > Now if you want BULL TOUGH sandpaper.... check out the floor finishing paper that commercial wood floor installers use (again, available at a commercial or industrial supply house). 3M makes a sandpaper, 'Resinite Floor Finishing Sandpaper', and it is TOUGH! It is an alumininum oxide abrasive on 'E' weight paper. It's black in colour, comes in the standard grits from 36G up to 240G, and comes in 12" and 24" wide rolls. Not for the faint of heart this stuff, if you wanted to sand an airplane out of a block of epoxy this is what you would use. -- Adrian VE6AFY Calgary, Alberta Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: 20 Aug 2001 08:07:00 -0700 To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Schmidt, Curtis" Subject: KR-2 has been sold Message-ID: <000C78FC@kaydon.com> All KR net people's; First of all let me say that this project has been most enjoyable and if it= weren't for a few of you out there I would have never gotten as far as I d= id! Unfortunately my wife's health and now my own has left me short on cash= and a breath. I sold my airplane this last weekend to a local (fellow home= builder) here in Kansas. I plan on keeping my ultralight and staying in th= e flying mode for as long as I can. I wish all of you the best of luck and = good health in all you do. Curtis Schmidt P.S. Krnet please unsubscribe me at this time! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:40:46 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Philip J. Visconti" Subject: GAS SPRINGS Message-ID: <20010820.114047.-521157.0.viscan@juno.com> Last night I just came home from a stay in the hospital. I was looking for E-mail from my daughter and any other E-mail, I sent, may have been a little terse. The trick, about lowering gas pressure in gas springs, I received from Gerry O'Hara in Sligo, Ireland. I had written to him about his dual side stick controls and part of the information, he sent me, included a small diagram and explanation about the springs. Since I can't send attachments to krnet, anyone interested please let me know and I'll send Gerry's ezplanation and small sketch. Sketch and explanation is about 100KB. Phil ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:13:48 -0400 To: kr2jm@d-web.com (Jim Morehead), krnet@mailinglists.org From: Eckmstr@netscape.net Subject: RE: KR> KR Gathering Message-ID: <29C04484.13E32E1E.00167451@netscape.net> Are any of you krnetters traveling from the Minnseota or wisconsin area? I would like to join you and share expenses. My schedule is wide open this year. No time limits. Looking forward to seeing a real KR for a change not just talk about it. :) __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:41:53 -0700 To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: Carson Cassidy Subject: First accident-And I'm not even flying Message-ID: <3B816801.F2D9DFF5@home.com> Ever heard the expression "s... happens". My KR2S was virtually complete from the firewall aft and I was proceeding with painting. In the process of flipping it over to paint it's belly the saw horse slipped (can't blame the saw horse, I put it there). As a result, I got to see how strong the canopy bow was. I am happy to say that it is structurally sound. Unfortunately, the fixed side window came into contact with the floor and did not survive and the seat bottom (fiberglass) came into contact with the windshield and took it out as well. Can't blame the seat either you know who forgot to take it out before flipping the airplane. Other than that, the aircraft survived unscathed. Now I just have an additional week of making a new windshield and side window, cutting out the old ones (they were beautifully epoxied in), epoxing in the new parts, sanding, filling, sanding, filling (you get the idea) I'll be ready to paint again. Just when I thought I might get in a little golf.... Carson Cassidy Calgary, Alberta, Canada ps. I did go through my entire repertoire of four letter words. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:03:57 -0700 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Some Thoughts on Rudder Horn Length Message-ID: <001201c129dd$463871a0$72a5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C129A2.7B56A040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here's a thought on making up the rudder horn that some might find = interesting. The RV series of aircraft have almost no rudder horn = length to them, the cables etc are almost flush with the skin of the = aircraft. This is a wonderful benefit in way of looks, and drag. = There's no reason why we can't do the same thing with our KRs. I don't have the plans in front of me right now, but IF I remember = correctly, the rudder control horn is 6" pin centerline to pin = centerline, and on the rudder pedals the distance from the hinge line to = the cable attach point is 4". Looking at this you could call the rudder = horn/rudder pedal a '6/4 ratio', or '3/2 ratio'. This 'ratio' term is a = purely arbirtary one that I've just now chosen to better explain my = thoughts. On my KR-2Sexy I will be installing the rudder cables so they exit the = airplane tight to the rudder post. The distance apart my cables are at = this point will decide the pin to pin length of the rudder horn. Let's = say that distance is 3", I apply the above '3/2 ratio' to my customized = rudder horn length and find that the distance from the hinge line to the = cable attach point on the rudder pedal needs to be 2". With the above rudder cable attach point arrangement I will find no = difference in rudder displacement with relation to the displacement of = my foot, ie, the airplane flys the same way as a 'plans built' airplane. = What I've gained is a really cool looking, and much more streamlined = arrangement than a 'plans built' plane. To take this 'ratio' idea further, it is totally acceptable to alter the = rudder horn/rudder pedal 'ratio' some to accomodate personal taste. = Someone with alot of tail dragger time might not like the idea of having = to 'dance' on the pedals to keep the plane straight on the ground, they = would increase the 'ratio' so as to reduce the foot displacement needed = to keep move the rudder. Someone who was new to flying a taildragger = might like to have to move the rudder pedals lots to make the rudder = move, they would decrease the 'ratio'. Just my thoughts on the subject, hope it helps somebody out. mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C129A2.7B56A040-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 19:42:10 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Some Thoughts on Rudder Horn Length Message-ID: <003301c129da$1d55dbe0$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> Y'all are going to get tired of me shootin' people down, but doing something like reducing the length of a bellcrank isn't as simple as just keeping the ratios the same at both ends. You are asking the same piece of metal to do the same amount of work with half the moment arm, so the forces (and loads) are going to be twice as high. Those same increased forces are going to have to be taken by the cables and end fittings, as well. Another reason things are the size they are is that if your bellcrank is only an inch long and you develop a sixteenth of an inch of play, you've got some real play. If it's three inches long then it's only a third as much play. Sorry, I know you wish I would just be quiet... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 19:18:10 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Weekend Flying, Almost Bit The Dust. Message-ID: First, CompuServe decided to start letting the NET thru. I guess the bitching paid off. I was doing rolls at low speed and somehow got my "2" in an inverted spin. Somehow I got her flipped over into a normal spin. She didn't want to come out. Full down elevator with bursts of power finally got the nose down enough to stop the spin. Wing tanks were empty, header 3/4 full. C/G OK. I put that in there because some one would tell me that the plane was out of balance. I wanted it nose heavy incase a spin wanted to go flat. I thought I was going to buy the farm on this one. It took over 2000ft to get it out. I had less than 600ft left when she came out. I have been playing it over in my head(not all the time by choice), and still am not sure what went wrong. The last words I spoke before she pulled out were " I'm really f#%$ed this time, Liz [my wife) is going to be pissed". Don't ask me why, but that's what I said out loud. I was only about 3mi from the airport, so headed straight back. I was ill to the point that the first approach was to high and fast, so had to go around. The moral is don't give up flying the airplane till you splat. This happened yesterday, I plan to go fly tomorrow. You know the get back in the saddle thing. No mater what anybody thinks, someone was helping me. You know what I mean? Gary Hinkle (A/P, COMM, INST, MULTI) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 16:54:26 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNet From: Frank Ross Subject: Small world Message-ID: <20010820235426.24149.qmail@web4703.mail.yahoo.com> Well, it is a small world. I've been in Phoenix this last week because my 24 y/o daughter-in-law had a mass in her chest and we were worried it was cancer. The cardio-thoracic surgeon took it out last Friday and today he saw my EAA t-shirt and told me he has a PT-10 and his brother-in-law is building a plane, but he couldn't remember what it is. Turns out his brother-in-law is John Roffey, KR builder and KRnetter. I bought the fiberglass parts at last year's Gathering that John had his eye on. Still feel guilty about that. Looks like the mass wasn't cancer too. We are all very relieved and I am very grateful for John's wife's brother. You just never know who you might meet that is related to a KR builder. ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 20:12:20 -0400 To: "krnet" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Problem with Spar Varnish Message-ID: <004701c129d5$f2ed37d0$9e2c5d0c@scana.com> I have been having problems with areas of the fuselage that had been coated with spar varnish. Even though I sand it off before laying on any glass and resin, it seems that the resin is pulling some residue up from within the wood. The resin will not stick and leaves a gooey, almost hard, mess. This is the second time that this has happened and I really thought that I had sanded off ALL of the varnish. I will now have to remove that glass that did not stick and find a way to get the old stuff off, and start again. Does anyone know of a remedy for this? Be careful where you put varnish. Daniel R. Heath WWW.EAA242.ORG ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************