From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 18 Feb 2002 14:32:33 -0000 Issue 375 Date: Monday, February 18, 2002 6:33 AM krnet Digest 18 Feb 2002 14:32:33 -0000 Issue 375 Topics (messages 8845 through 8854): Re: fiberglassing technique 8845 by: Jerry Mahurin 8846 by: Ron Eason 8847 by: James E. Lanier 8850 by: Woody Sulloway Re: controls 8848 by: virgnvs.juno.com 8849 by: Stephen P. Glover THRUST LINE 8851 by: Philip J. Visconti 8852 by: larry flesner 8853 by: Kenneth L Wiltrout 8854 by: Jerry Mahurin Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 13:33:27 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: , From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-Id: <3C7021A7.000004.61835@mahu4362> --------------Boundary-00=_R75PBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_S75P6RO0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_S75P6RO0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable All,=0D =0D 'Scuse my ignorance, but is there some authority that sez what the glass = to resin ration should be....?? That information would be most helpful to m= e.=20 I have always just seen the statement as dry as possible with no air void= s.. =0D =0D Jerry L. Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: HAshraf@aol.com=0D Date: Sunday, February 17, 2002 08:57:10 AM=0D To: krnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique=0D =0D Burt Ruran has a booklet that is available at Wicks and AS&S for about 20= =0D dollars that is very useful.=0D =0D My experience that it is better to heat the workplace than epoxy. I do he= at =0D epoxy each seerate parts once in a while when it is very cold, but never = =0D mixed epoxy. =0D Over heating mixed epoxy can start an accelerated curing reaction. =0D =0D The method you described is quite popular now and I have used it quite a = lot =0D I always weigh the cloth and use same amount of epoxy. That gives exactly= =0D 50/50 cloth to weight ratio. In this way I do not have to worry about a d= ry =0D laminate. =0D =0D Haris Ashraf=0D http:\\members.aol.com\hashraf\KR2S.html --------------Boundary-00=_S75P6RO0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A =
All,
 
'Scuse my ignorance, but is there some authority that sez what= the=20 glass to resin ration should be....??  That information would = be most=20 helpful to me.  I have always just seen the statement as dry a= s=20 possible with no air voids... 
 
Jerry L. Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com
 
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: HAshraf@aol.com
Date: Sunday= , February=20 17, 2002 08:57:10 AM
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re:= KR>=20 fiberglassing technique
 
Burt Ruran has a booklet that is available at Wick= s and=20 AS&S for about 20
dollars that is very useful.

My=20 experience that it is better to heat the workplace than epoxy. I do= heat=20
epoxy each seerate parts once in a while when it is very cold, = but=20 never
mixed epoxy.
Over heating mixed epoxy can start an=20 accelerated curing reaction.

The method you described is qu= ite=20 popular now and I have used it quite a lot.
I always weigh the = cloth=20 and use same amount of epoxy. That gives exactly
50/50 cloth to= weight=20 ratio. In this way I do not have to worry about a dry
laminate.= =20

Haris=20 Ashraf
http:\\members.aol.com\hashraf\KR2S.html


____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20
Click=20 Here
--------------Boundary-00=_S75P6RO0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_R75PBHK0000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:20:04 -0600 To: "Jerry Mahurin" , , From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-ID: <002b01c1b7f0$8d7195f0$b0621e41@Administration> ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C1B7BE.3B6A3550 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In lieu of slurry you can add Light wt. filler [ Aeropoxy Light] over = the urethane foam filling holes and un-evenness and then sand out = smooth. Then add fiberglass cloth with peelply. Very little sanding is = left. I've done it both ways and I believe the filler makes the foam = lighter and stronger. Saves resin used for slurry=20 KrRon ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jerry Mahurin=20 To: krnet@mailinglists.org ; jelanier@charter.net=20 Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 3:21 PM Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Jim, Maybe you should read up on sandwich compsite structure and = fiberglassing before you go for real. And it would be better if you = could 'assist' an experienced fiberglasser and learn that way. You are = doing one smart thing by making test layups, etc before starting your = project. Anyway in answer to your question..... If you put a wetted out layup directly on the foam, the foam = will suck a large amount of the resin right out of the glass/resin = resulting in a 'dry' layup with resin voids. To avoid this and to = provide a much stronger bond to the foam; you coat the foam with = 'slurry'. Slurry is a mixture of resin ,with the catalyst added, and = microbaloons creating a 'runny' mixture that can be spread out evenly = over the foam. But it should be thick enough that it will fill the = pores (holes) in the foam. Spread it smoothly so there will not be any = lumps under the glass. Then you are ready to add your glass/resin = layup. We usually cut the glass; mix the resin and catalyst; add = microbaloons to some of the resin; apply the slurry to the foam; wet out = the glass; put the glass/resin on the foam/slurry. We do it in that = order. If there are more people, the slurry can be applied to the foam = while someone else is wetting out the glass. I hope this information is helpful. If you have more questions = please do not hesitate to ask because these are very important = issues..... To get the strength required from your fiberglass/foam = structure, it must be done correctly....!!=20 Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com -------Original Message------- From: James E. Lanier Date: Saturday, February 16, 2002 06:42:17 PM To: Jerry Mahurin Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique I don't understand...do you mean a coat of resin on the foam as = well as the wetted glass that I described? Thanks, Jim ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jerry Mahurin=20 To: jelanier@charter.net ; krnet@mailinglists.org=20 Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 11:47 PM Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Jim, Just be sure and put a coat of slurry on the foam before = glassing....!!!! Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://www.jerrymahurin.com Jerry L. Mahurin Lugoff, SC See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com Jerry L. Mahurin Lugoff, SC See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com -------Original Message------- From: James E. Lanier Date: Saturday, February 16, 2002 09:11:44 AM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> fiberglassing technique I am giving myself a crash course in glassing. I am = doing some small scale tests to see what works best for me. I have been = painting heated epoxy mix onto glass cloth that is on plastic sheet. I = then lay this over the foam surface and squeegee from outside the = plastic. Then I remove it. Does anyone have any suggestions to improve = on this method? Also, I would love to find a url that covers basic = glassing techniques. Thanks, Jim Lanier http://webpages.charter.net/jelanier/ =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C1B7BE.3B6A3550-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 15:57:58 -0500 To: "Jerry Mahurin" , From: "James E. Lanier" Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-ID: <005a01c1b7f5$c7eb6d50$6601a8c0@jimllaptop> Jerry, Everything I have read on the subject says 1:1. More resin means more weight without any added strength. Also, thanks for the glassing info. I do have some experience with glassing and epoxy resin. I make high pressure motor casings from composite materials. Finish skins is a new thing for me, hence the practice runs. Every time I try a different method, the results are good but the "painting" part is always difficult. The stuff is just too thick to lay on easily! Later my friend, Jim Lanier http://webpages.charter.net/jelanier/ ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Mahurin To: HAshraf@aol.com ; krnet@mailinglists.org Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 4:33 PM Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique All, 'Scuse my ignorance, but is there some authority that sez what the glass to resin ration should be....?? That information would be most helpful to me. I have always just seen the statement as dry as possible with no air voids... Jerry L. Mahurin Lugoff, SC See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com -------Original Message------- From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Sunday, February 17, 2002 08:57:10 AM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Burt Ruran has a booklet that is available at Wicks and AS&S for about 20 dollars that is very useful. My experience that it is better to heat the workplace than epoxy. I do heat epoxy each seerate parts once in a while when it is very cold, but never mixed epoxy. Over heating mixed epoxy can start an accelerated curing reaction. The method you described is quite popular now and I have used it quite a lot. I always weigh the cloth and use same amount of epoxy. That gives exactly 50/50 cloth to weight ratio. In this way I do not have to worry about a dry laminate. Haris Ashraf http:\\members.aol.com\hashraf\KR2S.html ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 17:04:06 -0500 To: From: "Woody Sulloway" Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-ID: <000201c1b810$bd4fddc0$18bfc0d8@thinkpadi> Jerry, In the scenario I mentioned a day or so ago, boat builders have a ratio for hand layup. However it was as much a cost containment measure as a strength issue for the type of lay-ups we were doing. After all, our lay-ups are much thicker 1/4"and greater, using stitch mat (roving and mat stitched together in some lay-ups mat and cloth) proper saturation was determined by eyeball. Builders also sometimes use a Chopper gun that mixes chopped strand (with a tracer stand) resin and catalyst and sprays it in a mold. Most builders would not use this method because the industry buzzword for a good boat is "Hand Layup" Chopper boats did not have a good reputation overall in the industry. However properly applied it certainly would be fine for non structural items. Two very critical things to remember about this scenario 1. We did not have foam as an issue. Sometimes balsa core or other honeycomb materials, but they did not soak up resin. 2. We can swim better than we can fly! Enough off topic rambling. Regards Woody The moral of the story the best source of information is guys like Rutan and other Aircraft glass lay up experts --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Cape Lookout Mail Server] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:31:57 -0500 To: vjchrisovergis@ns.sympatico.ca From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> controls Message-ID: <20020217.183913.-143155.0.virgnvs@juno.com> KR-1 plans had side stick showing, Virg On Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:49:37 -0800 vincent chrisovergis writes: > Has anyone got info on the side stick controls for a KR2S I'm > building a > kr which will be a single seat.I've seen a kr that had a side stick > control and retracts. does anyone know who's plane it is.thanks > vince > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 15:44:51 -0800 To: , From: "Stephen P. Glover" Cc: Subject: Re: KR> controls Message-ID: <000501c1b80d$17a9bc90$c18afea9@IntelliSpec> No info on how to set it up though... Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 3:31 PM Subject: Re: KR> controls > KR-1 plans had side stick showing, Virg > > On Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:49:37 -0800 vincent chrisovergis > writes: > > Has anyone got info on the side stick controls for a KR2S I'm > > building a > > kr which will be a single seat.I've seen a kr that had a side stick > > control and retracts. does anyone know who's plane it is.thanks > > vince > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > > all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 23:04:18 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Philip J. Visconti" Subject: THRUST LINE Message-ID: <20020217.230419.-394207.0.viscan@juno.com> I was rereading Tony Bingelis's book "Firewall Forward" after seeing info on krnet about Fiberfrax. The motor mount section has something about being careful with thrust line. Looking at the R/R book and plans, with the original motor mount, the thrust line (crankshaft center line) figures to be 15 1/8th inches up from bottom of firewall. But not offset horizontally from center. Does that change with any of the many different engines now used on KR-2s and 2Ss ? Phil ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:37:57 -0600 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> THRUST LINE Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020218063757.008c5b40@mail.midwest.net> >Looking at the R/R book and plans, with the original motor mount, the >thrust line (crankshaft center line) figures to be 15 1/8th inches up >from bottom of firewall. But not offset horizontally from center. Does >that change with any of the many different engines now used on KR-2s and >2Ss ? >Phil >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++= Phil, After 12 Gatherings and 5 years on the KRnet, I've only heard of ONE KR that had to have the engine mount shimed to other than 0 horz and 0 vert. , regardless of engines used. The need arose when going to an 0-200 but other KR's had no problems with the 0-200 so I suspect it was an individual aircraft problem. I'll not "kiss and tell" but many of you have seen this airplane fly. I suspect something at the engine to engine mount wasn't/isn't quite right. I too was a bit suprised when seeing the plans for the first time and seeing no offset of the thrust line as in many other aircraft but in all my contacts with KR builders and flyers it has always been a "non-issue". In my opinion (I'm not and engineer) it's more important to build your airframe "square" and keeping the C.G. in the proper location than to worry about the (small) range of horsepower engines used. After all, look at all the aircraft built over the history of flight. Some have the thrust line at the bottom longeron, some at the top longeron, some on pods above the wing, twins will fly on one engine out on the wing, etc. Each location is accommodated by design changes in the airframe and each has different flight characteristics but, well , you get my point. Learning from those that have gone before I'd say that all the engines used so far are within the design limits of the KR. I'll slip in to my fire suit now and let the flaming begin !!!! Larry (I sure hope my KR flies) Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 08:15:42 -0500 To: flesner@midwest.net From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> THRUST LINE Message-ID: <20020218.081544.-158805.0.klw1953@juno.com> I've been flying my S since last summer with a 2100 Revmaster. I can tell you all I did was center up the motor mount on the fire wall. The mount came from Steve Bennet and that's how he told me to install it. Absolutely no problems. On Mon, 18 Feb 2002 06:37:57 -0600 larry flesner writes: > >Looking at the R/R book and plans, with the original motor mount, > the > >thrust line (crankshaft center line) figures to be 15 1/8th inches > up > >from bottom of firewall. But not offset horizontally from center. > Does > >that change with any of the many different engines now used on > KR-2s and > >2Ss ? > >Phil > >++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++ > +++++= > Phil, > > After 12 Gatherings and 5 years on the KRnet, I've only heard of ONE > KR that had to have the engine mount shimed to other than > 0 horz and 0 vert. , regardless of engines used. The need arose > when > going to an 0-200 but other KR's had no problems with the 0-200 > so I suspect it was an individual aircraft problem. I'll not > "kiss and tell" but many of you have seen this airplane fly. I > suspect > something at the engine to engine mount wasn't/isn't quite right. > I too was a bit suprised when seeing the plans for the first time > and seeing no offset of the thrust line as in many other aircraft > but in all my contacts with KR builders and flyers it has always > been a "non-issue". > > In my opinion (I'm not and engineer) it's more important to build > your airframe "square" and keeping the C.G. in the proper location > than to worry about the (small) range of horsepower engines > used. After all, look at all the aircraft built over the history > of flight. Some have the thrust line at the bottom longeron, > some at the top longeron, some on pods above the wing, twins > will fly on one engine out on the wing, etc. Each location is > accommodated by design changes in the airframe and each > has different flight characteristics but, well , you get my > point. Learning from those that have gone before I'd say > that all the engines used so far are within the design limits > of the KR. I'll slip in to my fire suit now and let the > flaming begin !!!! > > Larry (I sure hope my KR flies) Flesner > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:35:38 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> THRUST LINE Message-Id: <3C713B6A.000001.99161@mahu4362> --------------Boundary-00=_EVOQQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_FVOQLVC0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_FVOQLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Amen brother Larry...!!!=0D =0D Let's get on with the BUILDING...=0D =0D =0D Jerry L. Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com =0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: larry flesner=0D Date: Monday, February 18, 2002 04:45:36 AM=0D To: krnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: Re: KR> THRUST LINE=0D =0D >Looking at the R/R book and plans, with the original motor mount, the=0D >thrust line (crankshaft center line) figures to be 15 1/8th inches up=0D >from bottom of firewall. But not offset horizontally from center. Does=0D >that change with any of the many different engines now used on KR-2s and= =0D >2Ss ?=0D >Phil=0D >++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= +++=0D +++++=3D=0D Phil,=0D =0D After 12 Gatherings and 5 years on the KRnet, I've only heard of ONE=0D KR that had to have the engine mount shimed to other than =0D 0 horz and 0 vert. , regardless of engines used. The need arose when=0D going to an 0-200 but other KR's had no problems with the 0-200=0D so I suspect it was an individual aircraft problem. I'll not =0D "kiss and tell" but many of you have seen this airplane fly. I suspect=0D something at the engine to engine mount wasn't/isn't quite right.=0D I too was a bit suprised when seeing the plans for the first time=0D and seeing no offset of the thrust line as in many other aircraft=0D but in all my contacts with KR builders and flyers it has always=0D been a "non-issue".=0D =0D In my opinion (I'm not and engineer) it's more important to build=0D your airframe "square" and keeping the C.G. in the proper location=0D than to worry about the (small) range of horsepower engines=0D used. After all, look at all the aircraft built over the history=0D of flight. Some have the thrust line at the bottom longeron,=0D some at the top longeron, some on pods above the wing, twins=0D will fly on one engine out on the wing, etc. Each location is=0D accommodated by design changes in the airframe and each=0D has different flight characteristics but, well , you get my=0D point. Learning from those that have gone before I'd say=0D that all the engines used so far are within the design limits=0D of the KR. I'll slip in to my fire suit now and let the=0D flaming begin !!!!=0D =0D Larry (I sure hope my KR flies) Flesner =0D =0D =0D =0D ---------------------------------------------------------------------=0D To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"=0D =0D To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org =0D For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org=0D =0D See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ =0D =0D =2E --------------Boundary-00=_FVOQLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Amen brother Larry...!!!
 
Let's get on with the BUILDING...
 
 
Jerry L. Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com
 
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: larry flesner
Date: Monday= , February=20 18, 2002 04:45:36 AM
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re:= KR>=20 THRUST LINE
 
>Looking at the R/R book and plans, with the or= iginal=20 motor mount, the
>thrust line (crankshaft center line) figure= s to be=20 15 1/8th inches up
>from bottom of firewall. But not offset=20 horizontally from center. Does
>that change with any of the m= any=20 different engines now used on KR-2s and
>2Ss=20 ?
>Phil
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++++=3D
Phil,

After=20 12 Gatherings and 5 years on the KRnet, I've only heard of ONE
K= R that=20 had to have the engine mount shimed to other than
0 horz and 0 = vert. ,=20 regardless of engines used. The need arose when
going to an 0-20= 0 but=20 other KR's had no problems with the 0-200
so I suspect it was an= =20 individual aircraft problem. I'll not
"kiss and tell" but many = of you=20 have seen this airplane fly. I suspect
something at the engine t= o=20 engine mount wasn't/isn't quite right.
I too was a bit suprised = when=20 seeing the plans for the first time
and seeing no offset of the = thrust=20 line as in many other aircraft
but in all my contacts with KR bu= ilders=20 and flyers it has always
been a "non-issue".

In my opinio= n (I'm=20 not and engineer) it's more important to build
your airframe "sq= uare"=20 and keeping the C.G. in the proper location
than to worry about = the=20 (small) range of horsepower engines
used. After all, look at all= the=20 aircraft built over the history
of flight. Some have the thrust = line at=20 the bottom longeron,
some at the top longeron, some on pods abov= e the=20 wing, twins
will fly on one engine out on the wing, etc. Each lo= cation=20 is
accommodated by design changes in the airframe and each
ha= s=20 different flight characteristics but, well , you get my
point. L= earning=20 from those that have gone before I'd say
that all the engines us= ed so=20 far are within the design limits
of the KR. I'll slip in to my f= ire=20 suit now and let the
flaming begin !!!!

Larry (I sure hop= e my KR=20 flies) Flesner=20



---------------------------------------------------= ------------------
To=20 post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org ,= NOT=20 "reply all"

To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscrib= e@mailinglists.org=20
For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists= =2Eorg

See=20 the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.= com/aviation/krnet/=20

.
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20
Click=20 Here
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