From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 24 Apr 2002 00:40:12 -0000 Issue 414 Date: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 5:40 PM krnet Digest 24 Apr 2002 00:40:12 -0000 Issue 414 Topics (messages 9774 through 9799): Page of the week 9774 by: Daniel Heath KR2 PARTS 9775 by: David Hartz Re: Tool boxes 9776 by: Serge F. VIDAL 9778 by: Frank Ross airfoil 9777 by: rfarmer 9785 by: Mark Langford 9786 by: Mark Langford TV show for homebuilt aircraft 9779 by: James E. Lanier 9782 by: Patrick Driscoll 9783 by: James E. Lanier Plane crash 9780 by: Patrick Driscoll 9781 by: Patrick Driscoll From the Ground up 9784 by: Robert Stone Canopy width 9787 by: almndem.aol.com Project take off 9788 by: brunipietro.virgilio.it 9790 by: Frank Ross Re: [MyGlassCockpit] TFT display in your future? 9789 by: Ron Eason couple of flight squawks 9791 by: Jeff York 9792 by: West-Tek 9795 by: Daniel Heath 9799 by: Tom Crawford laying glass 9793 by: James E. Lanier 9796 by: larry flesner 9798 by: James E. Lanier Re: correction to a couple of flight squawks 9794 by: Jeff York 9797 by: Dana Overall Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 21:55:41 -0700 To: "Krnet@Mailinglists.Org" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Page of the week Message-ID: Well, maybe Page of this week. Jerry and I have reached one of those points when you get to realize some of what you have been planning and building for so long. We have pictures of the canopy door as it was cut out, and of the fitting of the windshield. Just click on either of the canopy pictures on the home page. Click on any picture to see it full size. Maybe we will have more next week. Daniel R. Heath WWW.EAA242.ORG See our KR2 at: www.JerryMahurin.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 22:09:29 -0700 (PDT) To: Darren Pond , krnet From: David Hartz Subject: KR2 PARTS Message-ID: <20020422050929.74484.qmail@web14702.mail.yahoo.com> HEY ALL!! I HAVE A KR2 SLING SEAT.IT IS SET UP FOR DUAL CONTROLS AND I CANT USE IT.I ALSO HAVE 2 SETS OF RETRACTS COMPLETE WITH BRAKES.{I HEAR THEY MAKE NICE WIND CHIMES?}I ALSO HAVE A TURTLE DECK.LET ME KNOW? DAVE 707-459-5455 > ===== DAVID HARTZ,WILLITS,CALIF. DEWRENCHER@PRODIGY.NET __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:29:09 +0200 To: "Darren Pond" , From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: RE: KR> Tool boxes Message-ID: I use one large plastic toolbox for most usual tools, plastic cases for the various special tools (one has got the drill and all the drill accessories), and large plastic trays for the material and parts. I even bring the compressor to the airport from time to time. But I'm cheating. I now have a pickup truck. When I had a normal car, I used three smaller plastic toolboxes (plastic so as not to destroy the car upholstery, and small so as to be left on the car floor) Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa -----Original Message----- From: Darren Pond [mailto:pond27@rogers.com] Sent: 22 April, 2002 5:38 AM To: krnet Subject: KR> Tool boxes HI All What are the experienced buildiers using for a tool box. What the trick. I need a tool box that works at the house (building site) fits in a car and still easy to use at the airport and the family cottage. Right now I have use a large tool box that ends up as a catch all and a laundry basket I stole from the wife. Has to be a better way. Darren ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 08:00:10 -0700 (PDT) To: krnet From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> Tool boxes Message-ID: <20020422150010.76003.qmail@web14002.mail.yahoo.com> > HI All > What are the experienced buildiers using for a tool > box. > Darren Darren, I'm not an experienced KR builder, but, I've been through the whole range of toolboxes over the last 40 years. The old metal Craftsman box gathers dust in my garage. Too noisy, heavy and made dents or deep gouges in anything I was careless enough to hit with it. Now use a 15 inch canvas bag in the car. Have a plastic box that is also a step-stool for household tools. The wife likes it, so I put tools in there that she usually uses, like a hammer, screw drivers, pliers, crescent wrences, etc. For hanging pictures, fixing door-knobs, etc. I like the larger, plastic (usually yellow or orange) boxes for taking tools to the airport, gun range, etc. Small enough to fit in the car, big enough for a couple small power tools, if necessary. If I had a hanger or a locker at the airport, I'd keep a permanent stash of tools there (including extension cords and drop-light) so I wouldn't have to carry so much. Back when I got my first expensive camera I learned that the best camera bag is a very nasty looking diaper bag. Go to the Thrift store (someplace that sells used articles) and buy the ugliest avocado green one you can find. You can leave your Rolex, Leica, and $10,000 in unmarked bills in it, in the middle of Times Square, and NO ONE will bother it. Of course that was before terrorists, so now it would probably get blown up by the police. The point is DO NOT leave anything valuable in a container that shouts: "Expensive Merchandise in Here!" At least, not in the US. ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:43:34 -0400 To: "krnet" From: "rfarmer" Subject: airfoil Message-ID: <004701c1ea0c$170e3a00$cf4562d8@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C1E9EA.8D4DF4C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am thinking of using the AS5048 airfoil on a KR2 with stock spar = location & thickness. This would require shimming the spars & would = allow a more favorable wing incidence. Any thoughts on this would be = appreciated. Thanks Bob Farmer ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C1E9EA.8D4DF4C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 20:45:15 -0500 To: "krnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> airfoil Message-ID: <001101c1ea68$848a2970$7600a8c0@athlon600> Bob Farmer wrote: >>I am thinking of using the AS5048 airfoil on a KR2 with stock spar location & thickness. This would require shimming the spars & would allow a more favorable wing incidence. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.<< If you mean use the AS5048 at the root and the AS5045 at the tip, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use it on a KR2. I don't think I'd use the AS5048 at both root and tip because the AS5048 was designed as a compromise to allow for a deeper (stronger or lighter) spar at the root, while providing more wing tank (or retractable gear) volume inside the wing. Using the AS5048 at the root gives you the volume advantage, and the AS5046 at the end of the spar gives you an even better drag advantage. By the time you actually get to the wingtip, you've really got something like an AS5045, which is even better. Regarding shimming the spars to change wing incidence, I personally think that if you're going to have a high-speed KR, the wing incidence should be reduced even if you are running the RAF48, in order to prevent the "Huey look" at high speed. If you're going to go slow (1835cc or so), and are running the RAF48, it's probably fine like it is. As far as whether or not it's suitable for the KR2 (rather than KR2S), Troy Petteway's plane that flew the first AS5046 was a KR2, and he was quite pleased with the results. It's true that the airfoil family was designed specifically for the KR2S, but there's not a whole lot of difference between the two, as far as the airfoil is concerned. For example, the KR2 and KR2S plans both call for the RAF48, for whatever that's worth to you. TET's templates are really designed for the KR2S, which means template at the end of the spar is at 33" long, rather than 36" like the KR2, due to the different forward sweep of the rear spar. Below is my reply to a similar question last week, which may be why you asked this one. Bob Roe wrote: >First, is it okay to use > the AS5048/15 airfoil on the shorter wingspan of the KR2? The AS5048/15 should work just fine on the KR2, as demonstrated by Troy Petteway's KR2. In fact, my wings are just about the same length as KR2 wings, since I left off the hoaky foam spars. The two wings aren't all that different in terms of wing area, it's the basic planform shape that's different, with the KR2S having a higher aspect ratio (longer, skinnier) because of the steeper forward sweep of the aft spar. I believe Troy Petteway's wing is KR2 planform, and I'm pretty sure Anthony Underwood's plane is going to be that way also. I guess I should know, since I provided them both the drawings for their aifoil templates. I'd recommend that anybody building a "new" wing use the AS5048 tapering to an AS5045, using the KR2S planform, but then I sell the templates so you might want to take that with a grain of salt... Mark Langford, TET, LLC mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:02:33 -0500 To: "krnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> airfoil Message-ID: <002c01c1ea6a$ef0d6530$7600a8c0@athlon600> Wait a minute, I just reread what he posted: > Bob Farmer wrote: > > >>I am thinking of using the AS5048 airfoil on a KR2 with stock spar > location & thickness. This would require shimming the spars & would allow a > more favorable wing incidence. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.<< STOCK SPAR LOCATION AND THICKNESS! That would NOT be the AS5048, but the definition of the AS5046, , which is exactly what Troy Petteway has already flown with on his KR2. I'd say the verdict is in on that one. See details at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/airfoil.html and at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/tet/as5046inst.html . If you mean you're going to stick the AS5048 on a stock spar, I don't want to know anything about it, because it ain't gonna be right, unless you scale it down, and it's still not going to be right unless you do a whole lot of head scratching. Hopefully, that's not what you meant. Whichever case, you probably need to do some reading on the two web sites mentioned above. Mark Langford, TET, LLC mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:12:07 -0400 To: From: "James E. Lanier" Subject: TV show for homebuilt aircraft Message-ID: <005c01c1ea10$23fa0a10$6601a8c0@jimllaptop> ------=_NextPart_000_0059_01C1E9EE.8A4EE8C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I thought there may be some folks interested in a TV program about = building an aircraft. The Discovery Wings channel has a show called "A plane is born". It airs = Sunday nights at 8:30pm eastern. (Also Monday morning) I watched a = couple of the shows. It is a good show for those deciding on whether to = build or not. Jim www.chemroc.com ------=_NextPart_000_0059_01C1E9EE.8A4EE8C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:36:14 -0500 To: "James E. Lanier" , From: "Patrick Driscoll" Subject: Re: KR> TV show for homebuilt aircraft Message-ID: <002a01c1ea13$70c19ea0$15dc6843@oemcomputer> I looked at a couple of the "A Plane is Born" shows and I get the same feeling that I had when I watched "From the ground up", a show about building a RV. The whole problem I have with it is that they say anyone can build a plane but they show "Kit Building" which says that if you have 20 or 30 thousand dollars to spend you can have a nice plane. Let's have a show that really says "From the Ground Up". We have to try to get them to show the work being done on KR's that start with striping the wood to rebuilding the engine to an aircraft configuration and show that a very fine plane can be built for about $5000. I have no problem with "Kit Planes". If you can afford it, go for it but the Idea is that anyone should be able to built a plane at a very reasonable cost. Anybody out there with TV connections? Pat Driscoll ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:46:30 -0400 To: "Patrick Driscoll" , From: "James E. Lanier" Subject: Re: KR> TV show for homebuilt aircraft Message-ID: <013b01c1ea14$f1e49720$6601a8c0@jimllaptop> I agree. But more importantly...they seem to show the easy stuff...and not the stuff you really want to learn. They showed him laying glass, screwing up...and then a fast forward to a laid surface! Thanks alot! Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Driscoll" To: "James E. Lanier" ; Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 11:36 AM Subject: Re: KR> TV show for homebuilt aircraft > I looked at a couple of the "A Plane is Born" shows and I get the same > feeling that I had when I watched "From the ground up", a show about > building a RV. The whole problem I have with it is that they say anyone can > build a plane but they show "Kit Building" which says that if you have 20 or > 30 thousand dollars to spend you can have a nice plane. Let's have a show > that really says "From the Ground Up". We have to try to get them to show > the work being done on KR's that start with striping the wood to rebuilding > the engine to an aircraft configuration and show that a very fine plane can > be built for about $5000. > I have no problem with "Kit Planes". If you can afford it, go for it but > the Idea is that anyone should be able to built a plane at a very reasonable > cost. Anybody out there with TV connections? > Pat Driscoll > > > > ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:17:51 -0500 To: "KR Net Mail" From: "Patrick Driscoll" Subject: Plane crash Message-ID: <001001c1ea10$dee35020$15dc6843@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E9E6.F54B7EC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Not a KR but a good read on a plane crash here in the twin cities on = Easter Sun. ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E9E6.F54B7EC0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:18:52 -0500 To: "KR Net Mail" From: "Patrick Driscoll" Subject: Plane Crash Message-ID: <001901c1ea11$0349db00$15dc6843@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1E9E7.19BB3160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Forgot to send the link http://www.startribune.com/stories/389/2243542.html ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1E9E7.19BB3160-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 12:17:35 -0500 To: "KRNet" From: "Robert Stone" Subject: From the Ground up Message-ID: <001a01c1ea21$988296c0$05d81a18@hot.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C1E9F7.AF61CA20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters: The TV show "From the ground up" has never shown anything that = has to do with composite aircraft. As a matter of fact the only = aircraft they show is a Kit plane (RV)What they do show is for = entertainment only because they never get into the fine details of = anything. Just the start then fast forward to the finished product. = The information offered on Mark Langford's web site & links is far more = valuable to builders and it's also free. Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX rstone4@hot.rr.com ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C1E9F7.AF61CA20-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:03:35 EDT To: KRNet@mailing lists.org From: almndem@aol.com Subject: Canopy width Message-ID: <194.5e8cdb0.29f64527@aol.com> I am building a single seat version of the KR-2S with a fuselage width of approx 31" at main spar location and 29" at the rear of the canopy. Could anyone tell me the width of a stock KR-2S canopy and is it flexible enough to squeeze in enough to fit my airplane? Don McHugh ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:44:46 +0200 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: brunipietro@virgilio.it Subject: Project take off Message-ID: --=_alternative 002A8D00C1256BA4_= Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At last after about 15 month of delay, cause big problem to wound a place for my workshops, my KR2S project took off saturday 4, 13th. My god 13 plus 4 is equal to 17.......!!!! I hope this will be a lucky time..... Pietro Bruni Italy KR2S I-KAMY --=_alternative 002A8D00C1256BA4_=-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:57:14 -0700 (PDT) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> Project take off Message-ID: <20020423145714.94346.qmail@web14004.mail.yahoo.com> Congratulations Pietro! We all want to hear more about your flights in your new KR ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 04:55:56 -0700 To: , , From: "Ron Eason" CC: Subject: Re: [MyGlassCockpit] TFT display in your future? Message-Id: <200204230455.AA230752494@jrl-engineering.com> Try this web site if you are building a PC/LCD-TFT. http://www.jacodisplays.com/ Ron ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:28:36 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Jeff York" Subject: couple of flight squawks Message-ID: I have the following squawks and would like some feed back. 1. With 2 on board the engine and oil temps got high on climb out. The engine is a GPAC 2180. On single takeoff the temps seemed ok. The passenger weight was around 300lb and the tanks were 14 gallons total. The winds were calm and the OAT was about 70. The plane was landed imediatly. Question? Would the temps have settled down after climb out? There is a few holes in the baffeling that are a little large. They are the openings for the plug wires. give me a little feed back. 2. Left rudder had to be used constantly. I don't want to have to put on a trim tab. Could this be the engine alignment? What all else should I look at? I would like to get this hands off capable to ease the crosss country load. 3. To much back stick pressure needed. About 4 lbs. I noticed the the hortizonal trim tab will not hold under hand pressure. What is happening I belive is the air pressure against the tab is causing the push pull tube om the tab to bend. I thought bout putting a wire though it. Like a heavy gauge piano wire. The mac servo is mounted on the fuse gunnel side behind the pilot. The tube that is bending under pressure is the tube attached to the trim tab. I want to repeat that I believe it is bending under pressure. Comments.... I know that these are items probably discussed before so bare with me. I am looking for thoughts that will get me outside of my own thinking to assure I cover everything. thanks KRnet'rs Jeff _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:45:57 -0400 To: "KRNet Mailing List" From: "West-Tek" Subject: Re: KR> couple of flight squawks Message-ID: <009101c1eb07$e1ef0140$2f296f86@corp.stratus.com> Hi Jeff, I cannot help with all of your questions, but maybe with the overheating. Your temps should definitely go down after you stop climbing, but whether or not that would be enough depends how high they were in the climb. Again with the engine baffling, temps should go down with more efficient baffling, but not tremendously unless the holes are really bad. Another things that comes to mind is mixture. Make sure you are not too lean on climb. Shawn Christopherson Gardner, MA http://www.ifly99.tripod.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:12:01 -0700 To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> couple of flight squawks Message-ID: Jeff, Temps will most certainly cool down after climb, but you will have to check then to be sure they are cool enough. Don't climb too long at the risk of your engine. Wait till you level off to see what your rudder pressure is. It may be OK. Don't change anything on that until you see what it is in straight and level. Then if it is bad, put an aluminum, ground adjustable tab on it and keep bending it until you get it right. I had to do this with ailerons once. Your elevator trim tab should stay put when you set it. If the cable or nyrod is slipping or bending, you need to replace it. The problem should not be in the elevator pressure itself. It sounds like, if anything, you would have had aft CG problems, not forward CG problems. These are all guesses and something to think about. Good luck. Daniel R. Heath WWW.EAA242.ORG See our KR2 at: www.JerryMahurin.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 20:43:45 -0400 To: Jeff York From: Tom Crawford CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> couple of flight squawks Message-ID: <3CC5FFC1.595C@ufl.edu> Jeff York wrote: > > I have the following squawks and would like some feed back. > > 1. With 2 on board the engine and oil temps got high on climb out. The > engine is a GPAC 2180. On single takeoff the temps seemed ok. The passenger > weight was around 300lb and the tanks were 14 gallons total. WOW! The first thing I want to know is how on EARTH you got a 300 pound passenger into a KR! This must be some kind of record- somebody call Guiness book of world records! #:) Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Flying N???TC Fuse Mailto:toys@ufl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:14:01 -0400 To: From: "James E. Lanier" Subject: laying glass Message-ID: <000e01c1eb0b$de2663b0$6601a8c0@jimllaptop> ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1EAEA.435475A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable As you may recall, I have been giving myself a crash course in = fiberglassing. One thing I have discovered... Painting on the resin moves the glass material... Rolling on resin works until it gets tacky! Then it sticks to the = roller. But...if you take wax covered plastic and lay it over the surface and = use a roller..well it works. It seems to work so well that I can't believe I have never read about = it. I find no references to such a solution. I am an engineer, but..... Any input? Jim www.chemroc.com ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1EAEA.435475A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 18:25:55 -0500 To: From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> laying glass Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020423182555.00868100@mail.midwest.net> >But...if you take wax covered plastic and lay it over the surface and use a roller..well it works. >Jim ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++= Jim, I'm no glass expert but I'd be careful of putting anything with wax on the surface. It could cause you problems with future lay-ups or primer, paint, etc. The tool that worked best for me was the 6 inch squeege from Wicks. Hold at about a 45 degree angle and apply enough pressure to move the resin but not move the cloth. If you apply too much pressure the glass will look "prickly" in the area you just covered. Too little pressure and you leave too much resin on the glass and it will look shiney. The right amount of pressure will wet the glass with no holes between the weave and you should see the weave pattern of the glass. That gets filled with filler later. Filler is much lighter than filling the weave with resin. Covering the heavy glass with the light deck cloth while it was still wet also worked well for me and saved a lot of fill. You will get the technique after just a few minutes. I used one inch throw-away brushes for small areas and to finish up the job. I scratch built both wings as a one man operation with no problems. Have your glass all cut and laid in place before you start mixing resin. Just fold back the overlap of pieces you're not working on. I also sealed my foam and let it cure before laying up my glass but that is another topic entirely. Good luck. I'm finishing up my cooling baffles, exhaust is finished and ready for coating. May be running the 0-200 this week or next !!! Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:48:48 -0400 To: From: "James E. Lanier" Subject: Re: KR> laying glass Message-ID: <001a01c1eb21$7c9f0910$6601a8c0@jimllaptop> I just tried again with no wax. It works well also if you remove the plastic shortly after application. The main thing is, working with a roller does not work unlesss you insulate it from the surface. I feel that a roller is required if you wish to thoroughly press the material to the surface and remove bubbles. . Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry flesner" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 7:25 PM Subject: Re: KR> laying glass > > >But...if you take wax covered plastic and lay it over the surface and use > a roller..well it works. > >Jim > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > +++++= > > Jim, > > I'm no glass expert but I'd be careful of putting anything with wax > on the surface. It could cause you problems with future lay-ups > or primer, paint, etc. The tool that worked best for me was the > 6 inch squeege from Wicks. Hold at about a 45 degree angle and > apply enough pressure to move the resin but not move the cloth. > If you apply too much pressure the glass will look "prickly" in the > area you just covered. Too little pressure and you leave too much > resin on the glass and it will look shiney. The right amount of pressure > will wet the glass with no holes between the weave and you should > see the weave pattern of the glass. That gets filled with filler > later. Filler is much lighter than filling the weave with resin. > Covering the heavy glass with the light deck cloth while it was > still wet also worked well for me and saved a lot of fill. > You will get the technique after just a few minutes. I used one > inch throw-away brushes for small areas and to finish up the > job. I scratch built both wings as a one man operation with no > problems. Have your glass all cut and laid in place before you start > mixing resin. Just fold back the overlap of pieces you're not > working on. I also sealed my foam and let it cure before laying > up my glass but that is another topic entirely. Good luck. > > I'm finishing up my cooling baffles, exhaust is finished and ready > for coating. May be running the 0-200 this week or next !!! > > Larry Flesner > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 17:19:01 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Jeff York" Subject: Re: KR> correction to a couple of flight squawks Message-ID: For those of you reding this, I will correct the statement of passenger weight of 300 LB. What I meant to say was that the total passenger weight was 300 lb. That was both pilot and passenger. Thanks to those of you that made fun of my error. Jeff >From: "Jeff York" >To: krnet@mailinglists.org >Subject: KR> couple of flight squawks >Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:28:36 -0400 > > > >I have the following squawks and would like some feed back. > >1. With 2 on board the engine and oil temps got high on climb out. The >engine is a GPAC 2180. On single takeoff the temps seemed ok. The passenger >weight was around 300lb and the tanks were 14 gallons total. The winds >were >calm and the OAT was about 70. The plane was landed imediatly. > >Question? Would the temps have settled down after climb out? There is a few >holes in the baffeling that are a little large. They are the openings for >the plug wires. give me a little feed back. > > >2. Left rudder had to be used constantly. I don't want to have to put on a >trim tab. Could this be the engine alignment? What all else should I look >at? I would like to get this hands off capable to ease the crosss country >load. > >3. To much back stick pressure needed. About 4 lbs. I noticed the the >hortizonal trim tab will not hold under hand pressure. What is happening I >belive is the air pressure against the tab is causing the push pull tube om >the tab to bend. I thought bout putting a wire though it. Like a heavy >gauge >piano wire. The mac servo is mounted on the fuse gunnel side behind the >pilot. The tube that is bending under pressure is the tube attached to the >trim tab. I want to repeat that I believe it is bending under pressure. >Comments.... > >I know that these are items probably discussed before so bare with me. I am >looking for thoughts that will get me outside of my own thinking to assure >I >cover everything. >thanks KRnet'rs > >Jeff > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: >http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:31:43 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: KR> correction to a couple of flight squawks Message-ID: Jeff, You should not be able to bend the trim tab push rod by pushing down on the tab. What most people have done with the MAC servo is mount it aft of the elevator spar on a bracket bolted to the spar. You then use the metal pushrod supplies with the servo. All you do is make an inspection cover to go over the servo. You will notice the MAC servo fits perfectly in the KR elevator. The extra wire to reposition this would be very, very inexpensive. I'm sure there are other ways, but this is a very clean installation. How many RPMs are you turning static and how many RPMs on your takeoff roll? Dana Overall aka Assembler Richmond, KY 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host http://rvflying.tripod.com _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************