From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 29 Jul 2002 11:25:48 -0000 Issue 483 Date: Monday, July 29, 2002 4:26 AM krnet Digest 29 Jul 2002 11:25:48 -0000 Issue 483 Topics (messages 11677 through 11706): Re: New comers 11677 by: Phillip Matheson 11681 by: Tim Brown Re: Oil cooler location 11678 by: Ronald Freiberger 11682 by: Brian Kraut 11684 by: Daniel Heath 11700 by: Alex Swavely Oshkosh - Back Home 11679 by: Jim Faughn 11680 by: Phillip Matheson building it light 11683 by: Mark Langford 11692 by: Phillip Matheson 11693 by: Donald Reid 11694 by: larry flesner gull wing canopies 11685 by: Rick Wilson 11690 by: Daniel Heath 11702 by: Alex Swavely 11703 by: Daniel Heath 11704 by: Alex Swavely Lexan canopies.(was Gull wing0 11686 by: Ronald Freiberger Virgs' secret identity!Sorry... 11687 by: Frank Ross 11688 by: Ronald Freiberger Lexan canopies. 11689 by: Daniel Heath VW engine case 11691 by: Brian Kraut 11695 by: David Mullins 11696 by: Buddy & Cheryl 11701 by: Alex Swavely 11706 by: Dana Overall engine mount for VW 11697 by: Davinick2.aol.com Test 11698 by: norm-ruth Re: The Type 4 is aluminium 11699 by: Serge F. VIDAL Max flap extension speed 11705 by: John and Janet Martindale Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 10:27:36 +1000 To: "KRNET" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> New comers Message-ID: <001901c235cd$9441c020$0100a8c0@LocalHost> Surly, If we new comers did not come along, how few of you would be left on the net , and how many less Kr's would be in filling garages???? And if ten years ago they complained about new comers , most of you would not be on the net now. New comers are needed in very club, sport, organisation, or there would not be any clubs etc. So surly the questions are well worth typing the replies. !!!!!!!!! Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au See our VW engines at; http://www.vw-engines.com/vw-engines/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 19:59:21 -0700 (PDT) To: Phillip Matheson , KRNET From: Tim Brown Subject: Re: KR> New comers Message-ID: <20020728025921.11956.qmail@web9503.mail.yahoo.com> I agree and thanks to all that helped me, now a nearly two year builder. Tim --- Phillip Matheson wrote: > Surly, > If we new comers did not come along, how few of > you would be left on the net > , and how many less Kr's would be in filling > garages???? > > And if ten years ago they complained about new > comers , most of you would > not be on the net now. > > New comers are needed in very club, sport, > organisation, or there would not > be any > clubs etc. > > So surly the questions are well worth typing > the replies. !!!!!!!!! > > Phil Matheson > matheson@dodo.com.au > > See our VW engines at; > http://www.vw-engines.com/vw-engines/ > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: > krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 20:07:35 -0400 To: "KRNET" From: "Ronald Freiberger" Subject: RE: KR> Oil cooler location Message-ID: Oil cooler carb heat won't work, 'cause when you need carb heat, there may be little heat given off by the cooler. Works well in hot weather, but then ..... Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: Brian Kraut [mailto:engalt@earthlink.net] Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2002 5:02 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> Oil cooler location ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 13:38:46 -0400 To: Daniel Heath , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Brian Kraut Subject: Re: KR> Oil cooler location Message-ID: <3D442C26.6090500@earthlink.net> Where do the lines for the filter come from and go to? I spoke to Steve at Great Plains about it and checked several other sources. From what I gathered there are three ways to do it; 1. Put a twin outlet tower on the top of the engine where the cooler was and run the coooler and filter in series. 2. Use an oil pump cover with a fitting tapped and take the oil direct off of the pump. A hole is drilled and tapped in the case for the return line. Steve told me that I would need to use a high pressure filter if I did that because you will get oil before it goes through the pressure regulator. 3. Can't remember exactly where the points to get the oil in an out of the engine, but the third way wasn't full flow so I decided against it. Someone please let me know if I am wrong on these. I would much rather leave the cooler and engine baffels the way they are and just add the filter right off of the oil pump as long as that won't blow up my oil filter. Daniel Heath wrote: >You do not need to move the oil cooler to use an oil filter. I mounted a >spin on oil filter on the firewall and ran oil lines to it. I think this >actually helped with cooling. > >Daniel R. Heath > >See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org > >See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG > > > > >--- >Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 15:13:58 -0700 To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> Oil cooler location Message-ID: I came off the oil pump on the front and cannot remember exactly where the return went. Rick, can you help with this? Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 01:25:46 -0700 (PDT) To: Brian Kraut From: Alex Swavely cc: Daniel Heath , Subject: Re: KR> Oil cooler location Message-ID: Having done a little research through various off road/dune buggy racing suppliers, seems they all recommend either 1 or 2 in your message.. If you are using a Type IV VW engine, you have a neat advantage over the Type I's in that there is an externally-mounted "standard" automotive spin-on oil filter... With these, it's a rather simple matter to go to your local major automotive parts supply and grab a universal spin-on filter relocator kit, with which you can plumb in any sort of cooler and filter combination you can find... On Sun, 28 Jul 2002, Brian Kraut wrote: > Where do the lines for the filter come from and go to? I spoke to Steve > at Great Plains about it and checked several other sources. From what I > gathered there are three ways to do it; [...] > 2. Use an oil pump cover with a fitting tapped and take the oil direct > off of the pump. A hole is drilled and tapped in the case for the > return line. Steve told me that I would need to use a high pressure > filter if I did that because you will get oil before it goes through the > pressure regulator. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 21:04:37 -0500 To: "KR Net Response" From: "Jim Faughn" Subject: Oshkosh - Back Home Message-ID: I haven't downloaded email yet but I wanted to send out an Oshkosh report. First I would like to thank Mark Langford and Linda Bennett for all of his help with the pictures for the KR Forum. Without their help, I don't think it would have been the same. Also, Jeanette sent me a number of the old magazines that I was able to scan and get into the presentation. Finally, Herb Bull's picture is as wonderful as it has ever been. Thank you to everyone for your help. Marti and I picked up a weather briefing this morning that looked marginal at best. We decided, actually, Marti said we could should fly together and see about getting around the system so we could get out today, otherwise it might be Tuesday before I could leave. We took off about 9 am and I was a bit nervous because I typically don't go in these conditions. We flew south to get outside of the Oshkosh airspace and then turned northwest. We then flew about 50 miles to get north of the front at about 1500 feet agl. At that time we were able to climb up to about 2500 feet agl and then flew across Wisconsin, across the southern edge of Minnesota and into Iowa before I needed fuel. We flew around several cells that had rain from forever up to the ground. It was easy to see them and we only flew in rain 3 or 4 times and each time for only a minute or two. We landed at Charles City, Iowa with winds at about 15 knots gusting to 20 and 30 degrees off the runway. I picked up 11.8 gal of fuel (I hold 15.5 gal). We were planning on landing at Cedar Falls, Iowa but there was rain at the airport at the time and we figured that landing a little north would be good and by the time we left it should be clear. We left Cedar Falls and flew direct to Kirksville, MO. For the first 100 miles, we flew at 1000 agl so we could still see the ground. As we went south it started breaking up more and we climbed to 5500 feet. We flew together until Kirksville and then Marti headed to Tulsa and I headed for Mexico MO for more fuel. When I landed on 24, the winds were 210 at 14 gusting to 20. I picked up another 11.4 gal. The guy at the airport couldn't believe a KR was flying in those conditions and had a few stories of a KR that was once based there. I called flight service and found that the winds were 210 at St. Louis at 12-14 knots gusting to 20-22. Well after two landings that I could walk away from, I figured what the heck. After filling up and taking off, I figured out why I was using so much fuel. I was able to watch fuel get sucked out of my gas filler cap while I was flying. I guess the seal in the cap isn't working as well as it used to and I will have to fix that before I head up to Red Oak for the Gathering. The turbulence was up on the way home but the plane seems to be very solid as it encounters the bumps. I came into my home airport and requested the 22 runway. It is 2700 feet long and I used about 1800 feet of it at most. I flew about 5.5 hours today for a flight that only took me 2.7 hours on the way up. When I landed it was 100 degrees with a heat index of 110. This last leg was at 2800 feet and I must have lost a few pounds. Lots of fun and I am happy the KR responded so well. Thanks again for everyone that helped with the presentation and to everyone I saw at the plane or while in Steve's booth. I enjoyed the week. By the way, Marti called me as I was heading back from the airport and he had just landed too. Another good Oshkosh. See you at Red Oak. Jim Faughn 4323D Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 63108 (314)652-7659 Mailto:jfaughn@mvp.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 12:26:58 +1000 To: "KR Net Response" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Oshkosh - Back Home Message-ID: <008301c235de$41675ca0$0100a8c0@LocalHost> Jim, Sound like you had an intersting trip home. I wish I could have attented Oshkosh. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 13:07:54 -0500 To: "KRnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: building it light Message-ID: <017a01c23661$b24bb9b0$0100a8c0@TD310> KRnetHeads, The subject of "keeping it light" is a recurring theme on this list, and it certainly has its merits. Building it light allows you to yank and bank and generally cut it up in the sky, and to land slowly and climb quickly. There are those that liken it to a fighter plane or a small sports car, and that's great if that's what you want. I'm a sports car fan too, but I have to admit that they'll usually wear you out on long trips. Fortunately, technology is allowing small cars (like my GTI) to run like a rocket, handle well, AND track straight down the road with minimal effort, so you CAN have the best of both worlds, with a little careful thinking. So let me present the heavier side of the subject. Like Don Ried said, doing the wingskin with a layer of glass on the inside and two on the outside yields a skin that won't delaminate and flop around in the breeze. Troy tells me that he was happy that he had to build new wings because his top wing skins had detached from the foam and they would balloon upwards during flight. This is on a carefully constructed plane less than ten years old that is always hangared! So the choice is build it light, or rebuild it often! Personally, two layers on the outside and one on the inside is exactly what I did too, and I'm quite happy with it so far. My wings have been stashed in every corner of the basement, and don't have a scratch on them yet. My Corvair engine is probably going to weigh about 60 pounds more than a typical VW Type 1 engine, but it will also put out almost twice the power! Adding 50 pounds to double my power to weight ratio is a worthwhile trade, to me. We've heard testimonials from pilots that adding a 180 pound passenger cuts maybe 5 mph from top speed, although I'm sure it impacts climb rate and landing speed more significantly. With 135 hp engine, I don't think I'm going to have a problem with climb rate. And I get the peace of mind of knowing that my crank isn't going to break, my case isn't going to wear out, and if one of the six cylinders goes dead I probably won't even notice! I put an electrical system and a starter on mine, mainly because I don't want to be one of those guys who shows up on the news explaining how my plane got away and tore up several hundred thousand dollars worth of other airplanes, or is expected to crash in Kansas when it runs out of fuel. Another side "benefit" of my heavy plane is that the wing loading will be higher, making it less susceptible to bouncing around in light turbulence, yielding a smoother ride at higher speeds. I've also added a few inches to (and pounds) to my horizontal stabilizer and fuselage length. The improved stability will be worth it, in my book, by making long trips less tiresome, and reading maps less hazardous. On the other hand, you won't catch me doing any wild aerobatics either, but that's not why I'm building a KR. Right now I'm in the middle of adding "useless" NACA ducts to the bottom of the fuselage right behind the cowling. What this "dead weight" will do for me is smooth the flow of engine exhaust and cooling air back into the airstream, making my plane more efficient and faster. Do I need that that weight? Nope, but I think it's a good tradeoff. Both my canopy and aft deck have roll bars built in to provide protection during a rollover. It's extra weight, but I feel better having it there. My big split flaps will probably cost me 8 or 10 pounds, but they will also allow me to land my "heavy" 700 pound plane at a slower speed than a plans-built plane could. This is important to me so I can land at my father's farm on his very smooth 3600 foot sod strip, or allow a slower touchdown in the event of an off-field landing. I widened mine a few inches, and that will cost me a pound or two, but now I can carry a passenger in comfort for long distances. I have nav lights, landing lights, and strobes, so I can operate at night if I want to, and to be more visible to others during the day. It's just a safety thing, and I like it that way. I have a transponder so I can operate in places where I couldn't if I didn't have one. I made my forward and aft decks completely removable. In five minutes I can have the entire top of the airplane GONE, totally open for inspection and maitenance. I think I'm going to like that a lot, later on. I didn't like fuel in the cockpit, or the way the CG goes aft as it burns off from a header tank, so I built wing tanks instead. Two wing tanks weigh more than one header tank, but I'm happy with the improved fire safety and the fact that my CG will barely move from full fuel to fumes. And wing tanks built in the outer wings take the load off the wing attach fittings, another bonus. I have an electric fuel pump as well as a mechanical one. I like the dependability of a carburetor with a float bowl that runs on a finite fuel pressure setting, rather than depending on something as fickle as ambient pressure and gravity. When fuel pressure depends on head pressure, a small change in attitude can make a large difference in flow and mixture. But those pumps cost me a couple of pounds. I added Oil*te bushings to my tail hinges, so they'll last much longer than the steel-on-aluminum design shown in the plans. But that's going to cost me another few grams. I could go on, but I'm sure you get the picture. Like almost everything else in life, building a KR is a compromise. You decide which ones to make, but it doesn't mean that others are building theirs wrong, since they are not "per plans" and tip the scales a little higher. I'm building a personal "time-machine" that will allow me to go long distances quickly. I want it to last a long time and require little maintenance, so I can get on with my next project. You're welcome to build yours to fit your needs as well... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 11:21:43 +1000 To: "KRnet" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> building it light Message-ID: <001501c2369e$522cde00$0100a8c0@LocalHost> Mark, Wrote ( And wing tanks built in the outer wings take the load off the wing attach fittings,) 1- Question What did you mean when you said the wing tanks will take the load OFF the WAF's I'm going the same, but I was concerned the tanks will increase the load on the WAF. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 22:13:13 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> building it light Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.0.20020728220406.00a2c600@pop.erols.com> --=====================_9768792==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 11:21 AM 7/29/2002 +1000, you wrote: >Mark, Wrote >( And wing tanks built in the outer wings take the load off the wing attach >fittings,) > >1- Question >What did you mean when you said the wing tanks will take the load OFF the >WAF's Wings support themselves. Any weight in the wing does not add to the bending moment of the wing spar. When you design a wing spar, you take the gross weight of the airplane and subtract the weight of the wing and everything in it. For example, if the gross weight of the plane is going to be 1200 pounds, the empty wing weights 150 pounds, and the weight of the fuel is 250 pounds, then the spar must be designed to carry 800 pounds times the designed load factor. The wing skin needs to be able to carry the weight of the fuel times the load factor. Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org --=====================_9768792==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 21:49:10 -0500 To: "Phillip Matheson" , "KRnet" From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> building it light Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020728214910.0086cd80@mail.midwest.net> >Mark, Wrote >( And wing tanks built in the outer wings take the load off the wing attach >fittings,) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ >1- Question >What did you mean when you said the wing tanks will take the load OFF the >WAF's >I'm going the same, but I was concerned the tanks will increase the load on >the WAF. >Phil Matheson ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The wing develops the lift that supports the weight of the aircraft in the air. Any weight "inside" the wing attach fittings (WAF) , i.e., the fuselage, engine, passangers, is supported by the WAF's. The weight of any fuel in the outer wing panels is supported by the wing lift directly and the "load" is not being transfered through the WAF's. You are thereby "unloading" or taking the load off the WAF's. Now the flip side. If you have full tanks in the outer panels and make a hard landing, you will put stress on the WAF's that a "standard" KR would not experience. I suspect if you land hard enough to do damage, there will be other problems of more immediate concern. You will be placing additional "loading" on the WAF's anytime the wing is not developing lift and you have fuel in the outboard tanks but this is rather insignificant under most conditions. My 12.5 gal wing tank will place an additional load on the WAF's of about 80 pounds X distance ( 3.5 feet to center of tank) for a loading of 280 ft/lbs with the aircraft at rest. ONE OF YOU ENGINEER TYPES TELL ME IF I'M CORRECT ON THIS OR NOT. There are other things to consider also such as flight handling with the weight outboard in the wings, especially if the tanks are not baffled well and the fuel sloshes root to tip and back! Weight outboard could also cause some noticable changes in roll control, etc. Does that make sense???????? I drive "18 wheel" trucks part time for my flying money and I had a fellow driver tell me about a time when he had 4000 gal of oil in a 6000 gal unbaffled tanker. He made a sudden stop at a traffic light, the oil did a giant slosh and moved the truck right out into the intersection with the brakes locked up tight! It's not fun driving with partial loads with that type of equipment. As KR drivers we don't have to worry about 27,000 pounds of weight sloshing around but you get my point. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 12:57:31 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: Rick Wilson Subject: gull wing canopies Message-ID: <20020728195731.79058.qmail@web21207.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, When building a gull wing canopy and fixed windshield do most builders use the front part of the r/r canopy as the windshield or do you use a piece of lexan to form the windshield? I've read that some have used the r/r canopy cut in half for the side windows, would this be o.k. or would it be better to just use lexan there too? I currently have the stock r/r canopy (side hinged) and have been considering building a gull wing as it looks like it would be much easier to seal and also would have a better "airplane cockpit feel".Also if lexan is used, what is the best thickness? Thanks, Rick Wilson......KR2-0200 rwdw2002@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 21:02:45 -0700 To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: KR> gull wing canopies Message-ID: Rick, I had not read your question before the previous post. We used 1/8 Lexan. We tested several thick nesses first and decided that we could not get the bend on the others. We cut the KR bubble and used the sides. I understand that some people reverse the sides, but we used them as they would have been in the bubble. I do not think that you can use the front, although, I do believe that Bobby Muse did just that. Jerry and I really think that the flat wrap windshield gives a much better line and are very satisfied with that part of it. Now if we can deal with keeping all hands and other things off the windshield, we should be OK. If you do go with Lexan, GE makes the kind with the scratch resistant treatment. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 02:29:11 -0700 (PDT) To: From: Alex Swavely Subject: Re: KR> gull wing canopies Message-ID: On Sun, 28 Jul 2002, Daniel Heath wrote: > If you do go with Lexan, GE makes the kind with the scratch resistant > treatment. > According to the window glass section of the construction manual for the Doran three-wheeled "experimental" car after their description of both acrylic and poly as choices for side windows: "General Electric also makes a polycarbonate with a thin cover layer of hard acrylic for scratch resistance. It is not recommended to thermoform this laminate, as the two materials have different blistering temperatures, making it impossible to form the poly without destroying the acrylic." (Lexan is GE's trade name for clear polycarbonate plastic) Personally, I think I'm going to go with acrylic, as it has a reasonably low thermoforming temperature and much better scratch resistance than poly. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 05:37:47 -0700 To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: KR> gull wing canopies Message-ID: We did not thermoform our windshield. If you do use Lexan, you don't want to do that as you get a lot of distortion. That is another reason that we used Lexan, because it is made to be COLD formed. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 03:17:02 -0700 (PDT) To: Daniel Heath From: Alex Swavely cc: Subject: Re: KR> gull wing canopies Message-ID: On Mon, 29 Jul 2002, Daniel Heath wrote: > We did not thermoform our windshield. If you do use Lexan, you don't want > to do that as you get a lot of distortion. That is another reason that we > used Lexan, because it is made to be COLD formed. > Ah... Still, with the layers of hard acrylic on it, the "coated" Lexan likely loses alot of its flex... Would be interesting to experiment with it a bit and see what happens tho... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 17:59:43 -0400 To: From: "Ronald Freiberger" Subject: Lexan canopies.(was Gull wing0 Message-ID: You might consider how easily lexan scratches. Certainly make the panels replaceable if you use lexan. Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: Rick Wilson [mailto:rwdw2002@yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 3:58 PM To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG Subject: KR> gull wing canopies Hi, When building a gull wing canopy and fixed windshield do most builders use the front part of the r/r canopy as the windshield or do you use a piece of lexan to form the windshield? I've read that some have used the r/r canopy cut in half for the side windows, would this be o.k. or would it be better to just use lexan there too? I currently have the stock r/r canopy (side hinged) and have been considering building a gull wing as it looks like it would be much easier to seal and also would have a better "airplane cockpit feel".Also if lexan is used, what is the best thickness? Thanks, Rick Wilson......KR2-0200 rwdw2002@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 17:02:54 -0700 (PDT) To: "jim @ synergy design" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: Virgs' secret identity!Sorry... Message-ID: <20020729000254.24260.qmail@web21502.mail.yahoo.com> Sorry, Jim, I actually have photos of Virg and Jeanette together. You lose. Frank Ross of San Antonio, TX having a great time in OSHKOSH, but going home in the morning. --- "jim @ synergy design" wrote: > My theory is since Virg is the only one building to > plans, Virg is really ... Jeanette Rand!!!!!!!! ;) < See Ya, > Experimental Jim(trying out my new bulletproof/flame > proof suit) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 19:06:02 -0400 To: "Frank Ross" , "jim @ synergy design" , From: "Ronald Freiberger" Subject: RE: KR> Virgs' secret identity!Sorry... Message-ID: I don't think I believe that.... please post the pic.... ;0) Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: Frank Ross [mailto:alamokr2@yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 8:03 PM To: jim @ synergy design; krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> Virgs' secret identity!Sorry... Sorry, Jim, I actually have photos of Virg and Jeanette together. You lose. Frank Ross of San Antonio, TX having a great time in OSHKOSH, but going home in the morning. --- "jim @ synergy design" wrote: > My theory is since Virg is the only one building to > plans, Virg is really ... Jeanette Rand!!!!!!!! ;) < See Ya, > Experimental Jim(trying out my new bulletproof/flame > proof suit) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 20:54:14 -0700 To: "Krnet@Mailinglists.Org" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: KR> Lexan canopies. Message-ID: I will second that. We used Lexan for the windshield, not easily replaced, and on some left over pieces, I scratched it with my thumb. Not my thumb nail, my thumb. I was aware of the fuel problem with it, but did not realize how easy it scratched. I do understand that they can be easily covered up with plastic polish. You can also buy a treated Lexan, which I did not know, that will resist scratching. Lexan does have at least two advantages over Plexi. It virtually will not break and it bends very easily. Good luck. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 21:21:17 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Brian Kraut Subject: VW engine case Message-ID: <3D44988D.6020607@earthlink.net> I thought that the VW Type 1 case was aluminum, but I have seen reference to it possibly being magnesium. I need to remove the paint on my case and repaint it. I don't have a sand blaster and it is very hard to get in all the cracks with a wire brush. I thought of using paint stripper, but magnesium is fairly reactive to some chemicals. Does anyone know if it is safe to use paint stripper on the VW case? I was also thinking that maybee I would rent a pressure washer and blast off the paint. I need to do my driveway anyway. By the way, I have been using Dupli-Color 1200 degree high temperature paint from the auto parts store on some other engine parts. I have used different engine enamels in the past, but they scratch off easily. When the Dupli-Color is post cured in my oven for two hours like the can recommends it gets extreemly hard and durable. It is not quite as good as powder coat, but it is the best I have ever seen in a paint. I highly recommend it. They also make 500 degree paint and that can does not say that it should be post cured. It scratches off easily with a fingernail. I don't know if baking on the 500 degree stuff will help it or not. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 00:22:03 -0400 From: David Mullins CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case Message-ID: <3D44C2EB.2586ECF5@attbi.com> Brian, The VW Type 1, 2, 3, 4, engines and transmissions are made of a magnesium alloy. The Corvair blocks are aluminum. Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire http://n323xl.iwarp.com Brian Kraut wrote: > I thought that the VW Type 1 case was aluminum, but I have seen > reference to it possibly being magnesium. I need to remove the paint on > my case and repaint it. I don't have a sand blaster and it is very hard > to get in all the cracks with a wire brush. I thought of using paint > stripper, but magnesium is fairly reactive to some chemicals. Does > anyone know if it is safe to use paint stripper on the VW case? > > I was also thinking that maybee I would rent a pressure washer and blast > off the paint. I need to do my driveway anyway. > > By the way, I have been using Dupli-Color 1200 degree high temperature > paint from the auto parts store on some other engine parts. I have used > different engine enamels in the past, but they scratch off easily. When > the Dupli-Color is post cured in my oven for two hours like the can > recommends it gets extreemly hard and durable. It is not quite as good > as powder coat, but it is the best I have ever seen in a paint. I > highly recommend it. They also make 500 degree paint and that can does > not say that it should be post cured. It scratches off easily with a > fingernail. I don't know if baking on the 500 degree stuff will help it > or not. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2002 21:35:47 -0700 To: From: "Buddy & Cheryl" Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case Message-ID: <003d01c236b9$69687be0$1e02a8c0@WorkGroup> ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C2367E.BCAE1660 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dave, Brian, I'm pretty sure the 1979 type 4 VW crankcase I have is aluminum. Bud Lynnwood ----- Original Message -----=20 From: David Mullins=20 Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org=20 Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 9:22 PM Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case Brian, The VW Type 1, 2, 3, 4, engines and transmissions are made of a magnesium alloy. The Corvair blocks are aluminum. Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire http://n323xl.iwarp.com Brian Kraut wrote: > I thought that the VW Type 1 case was aluminum, but I have seen > reference to it possibly being magnesium. I need to remove the = paint on > my case and repaint it. I don't have a sand blaster and it is very = hard > to get in all the cracks with a wire brush. I thought of using = paint > stripper, but magnesium is fairly reactive to some chemicals. Does > anyone know if it is safe to use paint stripper on the VW case? > > I was also thinking that maybee I would rent a pressure washer and = blast > off the paint. I need to do my driveway anyway. > > By the way, I have been using Dupli-Color 1200 degree high = temperature > paint from the auto parts store on some other engine parts. I have = used > different engine enamels in the past, but they scratch off easily. = When > the Dupli-Color is post cured in my oven for two hours like the can > recommends it gets extreemly hard and durable. It is not quite as = good > as powder coat, but it is the best I have ever seen in a paint. I > highly recommend it. They also make 500 degree paint and that can = does > not say that it should be post cured. It scratches off easily with = a > fingernail. I don't know if baking on the 500 degree stuff will = help it > or not. > > = --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org=20 For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C2367E.BCAE1660-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 01:41:00 -0700 (PDT) To: From: Alex Swavely Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case Message-ID: On Sun, 28 Jul 2002, Brian Kraut wrote: > I thought that the VW Type 1 case was aluminum, but I have seen > reference to it possibly being magnesium. I need to remove the paint on > my case and repaint it. I don't have a sand blaster and it is very hard > to get in all the cracks with a wire brush. I thought of using paint > stripper, but magnesium is fairly reactive to some chemicals. Does > anyone know if it is safe to use paint stripper on the VW case? > I dunno if it's a good stripper, but Eagle One brand "Etching MAG Cleaner" did wonders cleaning up the 70's vintage Mag wheels (real magnesium alloy) on my van. Says on the label "do not use on clear-coated aluminum wheels" (presumably cause it eats away the paint). ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 07:25:53 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case Message-ID: Back from Oshkosh, the best weather ever!! In reply to type 4 cases being hard to find. In the states, find a local Porsche club and get a sch. of the Porsche 356 swap meets in your area. You will find all the type 4 cases you want by going to the first meet. Dana Overall Richmond, KY http://rvflying.tripod.com _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 01:19:02 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Davinick2@aol.com Subject: engine mount for VW Message-ID: <1ac.5dac090.2a762a46@aol.com> Hi folks Iam looking for a VW (Limbach) engine mount. Does not need to be airworthy. I just want to mount my engine on an engine stand for inspiration and start work on the baffles. I plan on building a swing out engine mount, from drawings that Neil Bingham sent me years ago, as soon as my welding skills improve. Net Lurker from Idaho KR-2 building since 19?? Nick ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 02:20:27 -0500 To: "KRnet" From: "norm-ruth" Subject: Test Message-ID: <001c01c236d0$6ab8f940$fec13a41@prodigy.net> ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C236A6.80BC72A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is only a test to see is KRnet is accepting my posts. Norm ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C236A6.80BC72A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:01:15 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: Re: KR> The Type 4 is aluminium Message-ID: <007801c236cd$bc418000$2bda1ac4@co.za> The best book I could find on VW engines is "How to rebuild your Volkswagen air-cooled engine" by Tom Wilson. He explains that VW Type 1, 2 and 3 are magnesium alloy, and therefore, brittle with age. The Type 4 is aluminium, and considered "bullet-proof" because of its thick walls.Also, many of the "known problems" he mentions about the Types 1, 2 and 3, are not applicable to the Type 4. Problem is, Type 4 blocks are scarce...except possibly here in South Africa. Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 20:35:32 +1000 To: "KRnet" From: "John and Janet Martindale" Subject: Max flap extension speed Message-ID: <000801c236eb$ec11d000$c6de12d2@m1g0x7> ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2373F.7CB99680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is such a basic question, I can't believe the RR plans do not seem = state or even discuss it. Built to plans, the actuating rod is attached = at the inner end thus I imagine the max speed would be less than if the = rod were centrally attached. With a nominal flapless stall at 45 knots = (52mph), there would seem no need to extend flaps anywhere above say 70 = knots to achieve a steeper angle of descent. Do we really need to = descend more steeply at any greater speed than this? What do you = experienced KR fliers placard your white arc at? Is there any structural = analysis to support this? Would 70 knots max. be unduly conservative? My aircraft underwent its final inspection last week and now has its = Certificate of Airworthiness under the Experimental category. I'm = currently brushing up on tailwheels and doing some dual time in the = inspectors KR2 prior to committing aviation. Cheers =20 John and Janet Martindale 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA ph: 61 2 66584767 ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2373F.7CB99680-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************