From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 29 Aug 2002 01:29:02 -0000 Issue 506 Date: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 6:30 PM krnet Digest 29 Aug 2002 01:29:02 -0000 Issue 506 Topics (messages 12271 through 12295): Re: Most powerful VW powered KR2 12271 by: Phillip Matheson Re: Oil leaks 12272 by: David McKelvey 12273 by: Deems Herring 12276 by: lounsbur.midmaine.com 12278 by: Daniel Heath LORD HELP ME I'M JUST NOT THAT BRIGHT 12274 by: TIM BOYER 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks 12275 by: van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02) 12281 by: David McKelvey 12284 by: Phillip Matheson 12293 by: GARYKR2.cs.com 12294 by: GARYKR2.cs.com Corvair engine? 12277 by: van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02) information 12279 by: jim wogaman HAPI Starter 12280 by: GoFlySlow2.aol.com 12282 by: GoFlySlow2.aol.com 12285 by: bstarrs Cable resource 12283 by: Ron Eason humidity effects on wood 12286 by: jim wogaman wing area kr2s 12287 by: kazzri.xtra.co.nz Washington 12288 by: Patrick Driscoll Drilling question 12289 by: Serge F. VIDAL 12290 by: Deems Herring Re: I want this back! 12291 by: Jim Sellars Response from GPASC re: HAPI Starter 12292 by: GoFlySlow2.aol.com Re: KR on the way 12295 by: mike galloway Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 07:41:09 +1000 To: From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Most powerful VW powered KR2 Message-ID: <004801c24d49$4b4723e0$6d97dccb@Matheson> Hennie van Rooyen. Have a look at the Australian VW's listed below. http://www.vw-engines.com/ I will get some more info shortly. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02)" To: Sent: 26 August 2002 12:30 Subject: KR> Most powerful VW powered KR2 > Hi everyone, > > Please don't shoot me - I'm NOT going back on my word. I'm purely gathering > information as I have an important decision to make. > > After numerous enquiries, I've come to realize that in South Africa, a two > stroke aircraft engine and gearbox in the 80Hp plus range would cost me MORE > than at LEAST five times all other money invested to complete my whole > aircraft, upholstery, paint and everything else included except for the > engine. If I'm wrong, would someone please care to help me right. For > instance, a normal new 53Hp Rotax 503 engine and gearbox would cost nearly > twice my total airframe cost. I just think that I could do a lot better with > the same or even less amount of money. > > Would any of you therefore please care to help me with the following info > (if I have to go for a heavier engine, I want max HP gain at the lowest > weight penalty): > > 1. What is the largest and most powerful home modified air cooled VW engine > flying in a KR2? > 2. What would such a beast roughly weigh without electrics, flywheel and > starter? > 3. Is there a significant performance gain in using an reduction drive? > 4. If so, is there any good info available on building such an reliable > unit? > 5. What VW casing is needed to build such a beast? > > I've seen sites where they claim to get 200 reliable Hp out of an air cooled > VW engine for aircraft use. Is this true? Obviously they would not share the > info on how to achieve this. > > I DO realize that the Corvair engine would be a better option. But looking > at my friend Danny advertising that he wanted an Corvair engine only to be > able to find the smaller 80Hp version clearly shows me that this way is not > really an option in South Africa, at least not for me. Also, any parts would > be extremely expensive as even an gasket set would have to be imported. > > Any help in this regard would be very much appreciated. My project is of > such a nature that I could go both ways, two or four stroke and if I can > find an affordable bigger two stroke Hirth or similar engine in future, I > could and would certainly do an engine exchange. In my case, only minor > modifications would have to be made to get the cg back in the proper > location. It would also be quite interesting as I could then provide an > exact and true comparison on a two stroke versus four stroke engine on the > exact same airframe which would be rather interesting so say the least. I > would never for one moment consider not aiming four a two stroke engine in > my final project as this was and still is the main drive behind all my > modifications. Therefore I have not changed my opinion in the least about > the two stroke engines, but I want to be in the air by end this year or > early next year and I'll sacrifice my idea temporally in order to be able to > do so. I now have the finances to at least complete my project if I go for > the VW or similar engine and that means logging some actual flying hours > instead of merely dreaming about it. I haven't had a microlight for some > time now and I really miss being in the air where I belong! > > I do not intend to change any other part of my project as the above decision > would purely be financially driven. I could still go ahead and install my > Cuyuna engine, but I think I'll end up being on the very limit of the lowest > Hp required to carry two persons into the air at our close to 5 000ft > altitude and hot summer weather. Also, the new airfoil requires a 100 mph > climb out speed which would be hard to maintain with this engine. I believe > (and this is from a reliable source), that in South Africa, a KR2 with a > 2litre VW engine with two aboard has a climb rate of only 150 fpm under the > above conditions and that it is real hairy in down draft conditions at > certain times with two big adults aboard - that's NOT for me! I have > considered a two stroke outboard boat engine, but the modifications to make > this work safely and operating at acceptable temperatures would be a project > on it's own pushing my completion date out by quite some time. I could > always do this on a test stand whilst happily flying my project in the mean > time, which might be exactly what I'll end up doing. > > Looking very much forward to any information related to the above. > > Regards, > Hennie van Rooyen > South Africa > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 17:06:35 -0500 To: From: "David McKelvey" Subject: RE: KR> Oil leaks Message-ID: I don't get concerned until they stop leaking!! -----Original Message----- From: Phillip Matheson [mailto:matheson@dodo.com.au] Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 4:34 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Oil leaks Also, check that the crankcase is not cracked, they seem to crack near the cylinder studs where they enter the crankcase. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Donald Reid" To: Sent: 26 August 2002 05:57 Subject: Re: KR> Oil leaks > At 03:24 PM 8/25/2002 -0400, Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > >Just wondering how many of you guys after flying for an hour or so are > >constantly bothered by these darn pesky little oil leaks that find their > >way on to the under side of the aircraft etc. I ... > > Do you have a crankcase vent? Do you have an oil separator on your > crankcase vent? > > If you don't have a vent, the cylinder blowby will pressurize the crankcase > and it will leak out the smallest holes. If you don't have a oil separator > on the vent line, it could be coming out of the vent line. > > > > > > > Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com > Bumpass, Va > > Visit my web sites at: > KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm > Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm > EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org > Ultralights: http://usua250.org > VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 19:03:31 -0500 To: From: "Deems Herring" Subject: Re: KR> Oil leaks Message-ID: <001401c24d5d$2e32e5a0$6502a8c0@72n6x01> Get some leak detector from the auto parts store. Its dye made for oil and it glows under black light. Add it to the oil. Run the engine up to normal temperatures then shut down and check for dye. . ----- Original Message ----- From: "David McKelvey" To: Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 5:06 PM Subject: RE: KR> Oil leaks > I don't get concerned until they stop leaking!! > > -----Original Message----- > From: Phillip Matheson [mailto:matheson@dodo.com.au] > Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 4:34 PM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: Re: KR> Oil leaks > > > Also, > check that the crankcase is not cracked, they seem to crack near the > cylinder studs where they enter the crankcase. > > Phil Matheson > matheson@dodo.com.au > 61 3 58833588 > See our engines at: > http://www.vw-engines.com/ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Donald Reid" > To: > Sent: 26 August 2002 05:57 > Subject: Re: KR> Oil leaks > > > > At 03:24 PM 8/25/2002 -0400, Kenneth L Wiltrout wrote: > > >Just wondering how many of you guys after flying for an hour or so are > > >constantly bothered by these darn pesky little oil leaks that find their > > >way on to the under side of the aircraft etc. I ... > > > > Do you have a crankcase vent? Do you have an oil separator on your > > crankcase vent? > > > > If you don't have a vent, the cylinder blowby will pressurize the > crankcase > > and it will leak out the smallest holes. If you don't have a oil > separator > > on the vent line, it could be coming out of the vent line. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com > > Bumpass, Va > > > > Visit my web sites at: > > KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm > > Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm > > EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org > > Ultralights: http://usua250.org > > VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 01:02:57 -0400 To: "Phillip Matheson" , From: lounsbur@midmaine.com Subject: Re: KR> Oil leaks Message-Id: <3.0.2.32.20020827010257.009b8a40@pop3.norton.antivirus> Kenny one place that you need to check are the metal caps that cover the lower sparkplugs in the cylinder heads. You are running a revmaster same as me and this is a common problem with this engine. Follow the sparkplug wires for the lower plugs and see if there is any oil on them.Also you can reach your finger up inside the cap to see if any oil has gathered there also. It has been my experience that they will only leak at higher engine rpms such as you would have in flight. Revmaster recomends that you seal the caps with only the blue permatex silicone, i can't remember what it is called but i will check and let you know. Any other kind that i would use would always leak after a little while. I hope that this helps Kip> ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 05:48:08 -0700 To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> Oil leaks Message-ID: I had a crack appear in my 1835 type I. It was just behind the #3 cylinder on the back of the case. However, it would continue to drip oil until it cooled down. I had to replace the case, and while I was at it, converted it to a 1915 for only a couple hundred bucks. See you in Red Oak. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.381 / Virus Database: 214 - Release Date: 8/2/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 22:39:10 -0400 To: From: "TIM BOYER" Subject: LORD HELP ME I'M JUST NOT THAT BRIGHT Message-ID: <000001c24d73$50888fe0$5374fea9@user> ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C24D51.6538B4A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable IS THERE ARE BUILDERS OF THE KR2 IN PA OR MARYLAND I JUST GOT MY BLUE = PRINTS FOR THE KR2 AND NEED HELP DECIPHERING SOME OF THE MEASUREMENTS = FOR THE BOAT PART AND WOULD LIKE TO SEE ONE BEING BUILT UP CLOSE THANKS TIM=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C24D51.6538B4A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 23:03:42 -0500 To: "'krnet@mailinglists.org'" From: "van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02)" Subject: 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks Hi everyone, Thank you very much for all your replies. What a nice and useful forum this is indeed! Well, I bit the bullet (as Mark always says) and bought my friend's 2 litre type IV VW aircraft engine. He sold it to me at a very reasonable price, including a proper engine mount, so I could not resist. Thanks Danny! You are a true friend indeed! Just some comparisons and justification: I've received some two new stroke prices on my enquiries today. In South Africa, the cheapest (70 Hp) so far cost just under R60 000! That's more than double and very nearly three times the cost of my total completed (yes, when finished!!!) part of the rest of my project. In this week's Junk Mail paper for instance, someone is selling a second hand gearbox only for a Rotax 503 for R9 000. I bought my complete engine, crank already modified as per plans with the prop flange less carbs and ignition with a brand new proper engine mount (and it already flew in an aircraft) for much, much, much less than the second hand Rotax gearbox! You guys in the states are living in paradise indeed! So, now to my questions if some of you would care to comment. I'm still intending to keep it as light and simple as possible, but I want as much power increase as possible (within reason) to offset the disadvantages of the now heavier engine. (I KNOW, I KNOW there are most probably many, many books for sale on this subject, but that's what's nice about this forum and that's you guys with the actual first hand experience and I'm after such advice for now.) 1. I will most assuredly use Serge's method for the ignition system - 350 hours without a glitch is hard to beat. Thanks for the idea Serge and all who cared to offer me information on this system. 2. Why is the reduction drive only advertised for the type I VW engine and not the type IV? Am my missing something here? 3. Where can I find correct info on the current method of tuned four into one collector exhaust systems as used successfully on many new production aircraft? (Those with the long single exhaust pipe protruding from the bottom of the cowling)? 4. My engine has the prop flange on the front. If I go for a reduction drive, is it better to have the belts at the rear (flywheel end) with a shaft running to the front. If so, what is the lightest safe material that I could use for the shaft? Any site offering info on how to construct such a unit? 5. I intend to mount side draught carbs at the top rear of the engine, intakes facing rearwards like on the Limbach glider VW type engines. Would it be feasible to use one carb per cylinder and any suggestions as to carb types and sizes for such an application would be very welcome. 6. I've once read that if the intake air to the carbs is fed from air that has already cooled the cylinders, a carb heat system is not required. As I want to keep mine as simple and light as possible, could anyone contradict this statement based on actual experience? 7. Would it still be possible to hand start the engine if a reduction drive system is used? 8. Are there any disadvantages mounting the engine closer to the firewall using the two U channels as suggested in the original KR plans. I have a proper engine mount, but going this way will help with my cg. It would save me having to mount a small motor cycle battery at the very back of my fuselage. I will most probably not have any flange (adaptor plate) attached to the rear of my engine. Well, that's about the lightest and most cost effective power output gaining methods that I can think of with my limited VW knowledge. I ***WILL*** polish all my engine ports - I've souped up many cars when I was younger and this made for quite an improvement indeed. Any better suggestions are indeed very, very welcome. I realize that one could go overboard with mods to this engine, but my main aim is to keep it simple and light. My wings and everything else stays exactly the same as planned. I'm still convinced (and I'm not trying to be a wise crack here, but I know that this is possible) that my flap arrangement would allow landings in the lower 30 mph region, even with the heavier engine arrangement, which is acceptable to me. I've spent some time with a friend in a Cherokee 140 lately and approaching at 80 knots is ***NOT*** what I have in mind at all! Heck, I might even end up with a 100Hp plus engine that is only 1.5 times heavier than a similar powered two stroke engine, costing less than a tenth of the two stroke's retail price and would still be acceptable for my experiment. I might even end up being so satisfied with this arrangement that I'll not even consider a two stroke anymore purely because I live in South Africa and they are indeed very, very expensive over here with our current currency. Best regards, Hennie van Rooyen South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:39:23 -0500 To: From: "David McKelvey" Subject: RE: KR> 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks Message-ID: >>6. I've once read that if the intake air to the carbs is fed from air that >>has already cooled the cylinders, a carb heat system is not required. As I >>want to keep mine as simple and light as possible, could anyone contradict >>this statement based on actual experience? While I have no actual experience with this, as an aircraft engine mechanic for many years, I can tell you that warmer air is less dense which means reduced cylinder efficiency or... less HP. You wouldn't want to fly your friends Cherokee with the carb heat on at all times for that very reason. You may also risk burnig valves. Does anyone know any different? I haven't worked recips in years!! Also more carbs mean more money, more maintenance and most important, more weight. I believe it was Burt Rutan who said "Before you install something in your airplane, throw it in the air, if it comes back down...it's too heavy." (as a microlight flyer, I'm sure you know that!) Dave Grapevine, TX -----Original Message----- From: van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02) [mailto:Hennie.van.Rooyen@honeywell.com] Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 11:04 PM To: 'krnet@mailinglists.org' Subject: KR> 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks Hi everyone, Thank you very much for all your replies. What a nice and useful forum this is indeed! Well, I bit the bullet (as Mark always says) and bought my friend's 2 litre type IV VW aircraft engine. He sold it to me at a very reasonable price, including a proper engine mount, so I could not resist. Thanks Danny! You are a true friend indeed! Just some comparisons and justification: I've received some two new stroke prices on my enquiries today. In South Africa, the cheapest (70 Hp) so far cost just under R60 000! That's more than double and very nearly three times the cost of my total completed (yes, when finished!!!) part of the rest of my project. In this week's Junk Mail paper for instance, someone is selling a second hand gearbox only for a Rotax 503 for R9 000. I bought my complete engine, crank already modified as per plans with the prop flange less carbs and ignition with a brand new proper engine mount (and it already flew in an aircraft) for much, much, much less than the second hand Rotax gearbox! You guys in the states are living in paradise indeed! So, now to my questions if some of you would care to comment. I'm still intending to keep it as light and simple as possible, but I want as much power increase as possible (within reason) to offset the disadvantages of the now heavier engine. (I KNOW, I KNOW there are most probably many, many books for sale on this subject, but that's what's nice about this forum and that's you guys with the actual first hand experience and I'm after such advice for now.) 1. I will most assuredly use Serge's method for the ignition system - 350 hours without a glitch is hard to beat. Thanks for the idea Serge and all who cared to offer me information on this system. 2. Why is the reduction drive only advertised for the type I VW engine and not the type IV? Am my missing something here? 3. Where can I find correct info on the current method of tuned four into one collector exhaust systems as used successfully on many new production aircraft? (Those with the long single exhaust pipe protruding from the bottom of the cowling)? 4. My engine has the prop flange on the front. If I go for a reduction drive, is it better to have the belts at the rear (flywheel end) with a shaft running to the front. If so, what is the lightest safe material that I could use for the shaft? Any site offering info on how to construct such a unit? 5. I intend to mount side draught carbs at the top rear of the engine, intakes facing rearwards like on the Limbach glider VW type engines. Would it be feasible to use one carb per cylinder and any suggestions as to carb types and sizes for such an application would be very welcome. 6. I've once read that if the intake air to the carbs is fed from air that has already cooled the cylinders, a carb heat system is not required. As I want to keep mine as simple and light as possible, could anyone contradict this statement based on actual experience? 7. Would it still be possible to hand start the engine if a reduction drive system is used? 8. Are there any disadvantages mounting the engine closer to the firewall using the two U channels as suggested in the original KR plans. I have a proper engine mount, but going this way will help with my cg. It would save me having to mount a small motor cycle battery at the very back of my fuselage. I will most probably not have any flange (adaptor plate) attached to the rear of my engine. Well, that's about the lightest and most cost effective power output gaining methods that I can think of with my limited VW knowledge. I ***WILL*** polish all my engine ports - I've souped up many cars when I was younger and this made for quite an improvement indeed. Any better suggestions are indeed very, very welcome. I realize that one could go overboard with mods to this engine, but my main aim is to keep it simple and light. My wings and everything else stays exactly the same as planned. I'm still convinced (and I'm not trying to be a wise crack here, but I know that this is possible) that my flap arrangement would allow landings in the lower 30 mph region, even with the heavier engine arrangement, which is acceptable to me. I've spent some time with a friend in a Cherokee 140 lately and approaching at 80 knots is ***NOT*** what I have in mind at all! Heck, I might even end up with a 100Hp plus engine that is only 1.5 times heavier than a similar powered two stroke engine, costing less than a tenth of the two stroke's retail price and would still be acceptable for my experiment. I might even end up being so satisfied with this arrangement that I'll not even consider a two stroke anymore purely because I live in South Africa and they are indeed very, very expensive over here with our current currency. Best regards, Hennie van Rooyen South Africa --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 11:10:52 +1000 To: From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks Message-ID: <002101c24e2f$c2756c60$0100a8c0@LocalHost> Hennie wrote: Why is the reduction drive only advertised for the type I VW engine and > not the type IV? Am my missing something here? Hennie. Reduction is available for type IV. Metal gear reduction. Have a look at our sight. If I can be of any assistance please contact me. www.vw-engines.com Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02)" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 2:03 PM Subject: KR> 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks > Hi everyone, > > Thank you very much for all your replies. What a nice and useful forum this > is indeed! > > Well, I bit the bullet (as Mark always says) and bought my friend's 2 litre > type IV VW aircraft engine. He sold it to me at a very reasonable price, > including a proper engine mount, so I could not resist. Thanks Danny! You > are a true friend indeed! > > Just some comparisons and justification: I've received some two new stroke > prices on my enquiries today. In South Africa, the cheapest (70 Hp) so far > cost just under R60 000! That's more than double and very nearly three times > the cost of my total completed (yes, when finished!!!) part of the rest of > my project. In this week's Junk Mail paper for instance, someone is selling > a second hand gearbox only for a Rotax 503 for R9 000. I bought my complete > engine, crank already modified as per plans with the prop flange less carbs > and ignition with a brand new proper engine mount (and it already flew in an > aircraft) for much, much, much less than the second hand Rotax gearbox! You > guys in the states are living in paradise indeed! > > So, now to my questions if some of you would care to comment. I'm still > intending to keep it as light and simple as possible, but I want as much > power increase as possible (within reason) to offset the disadvantages of > the now heavier engine. (I KNOW, I KNOW there are most probably many, many > books for sale on this subject, but that's what's nice about this forum and > that's you guys with the actual first hand experience and I'm after such > advice for now.) > > 1. I will most assuredly use Serge's method for the ignition system - 350 > hours without a glitch is hard to beat. Thanks for the idea Serge and all > who cared to offer me information on this system. > 2. Why is the reduction drive only advertised for the type I VW engine and > not the type IV? Am my missing something here? > 3. Where can I find correct info on the current method of tuned four into > one collector exhaust systems as used successfully on many new production > aircraft? (Those with the long single exhaust pipe protruding from the > bottom of the cowling)? > 4. My engine has the prop flange on the front. If I go for a reduction > drive, is it better to have the belts at the rear (flywheel end) with a > shaft running to the front. If so, what is the lightest safe material that I > could use for the shaft? Any site offering info on how to construct such a > unit? > 5. I intend to mount side draught carbs at the top rear of the engine, > intakes facing rearwards like on the Limbach glider VW type engines. Would > it be feasible to use one carb per cylinder and any suggestions as to carb > types and sizes for such an application would be very welcome. > 6. I've once read that if the intake air to the carbs is fed from air that > has already cooled the cylinders, a carb heat system is not required. As I > want to keep mine as simple and light as possible, could anyone contradict > this statement based on actual experience? > 7. Would it still be possible to hand start the engine if a reduction drive > system is used? > 8. Are there any disadvantages mounting the engine closer to the firewall > using the two U channels as suggested in the original KR plans. I have a > proper engine mount, but going this way will help with my cg. It would save > me having to mount a small motor cycle battery at the very back of my > fuselage. I will most probably not have any flange (adaptor plate) attached > to the rear of my engine. > > Well, that's about the lightest and most cost effective power output gaining > methods that I can think of with my limited VW knowledge. I ***WILL*** > polish all my engine ports - I've souped up many cars when I was younger and > this made for quite an improvement indeed. Any better suggestions are indeed > very, very welcome. I realize that one could go overboard with mods to this > engine, but my main aim is to keep it simple and light. My wings and > everything else stays exactly the same as planned. I'm still convinced (and > I'm not trying to be a wise crack here, but I know that this is possible) > that my flap arrangement would allow landings in the lower 30 mph region, > even with the heavier engine arrangement, which is acceptable to me. I've > spent some time with a friend in a Cherokee 140 lately and approaching at 80 > knots is ***NOT*** what I have in mind at all! Heck, I might even end up > with a 100Hp plus engine that is only 1.5 times heavier than a similar > powered two stroke engine, costing less than a tenth of the two stroke's > retail price and would still be acceptable for my experiment. I might even > end up being so satisfied with this arrangement that I'll not even consider > a two stroke anymore purely because I live in South Africa and they are > indeed very, very expensive over here with our current currency. > > Best regards, > Hennie van Rooyen > South Africa > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:33:01 EDT To: davmck@verizon.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks Message-ID: <12c.16ac1a2c.2a9e8d7d@cs.com> In a message dated 8/27/02 5:40:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, davmck@verizon.net writes: << I can tell you that warmer air is less dense which means reduced cylinder efficiency or... less HP. You wouldn't want to fly your friends Cherokee with the carb heat on at all times for that very reason. You may also risk burning valves. Does anyone know any different? I haven't worked recips in years!! >> You CAN fly around all day with the carb heat on. The cylinder is not loosing anything. Because the air is less dense, the mixture will be richer. The engine thinks it is flying 2 to 3 thousand feet higher than it really is. The cylinder will run cooler with heat on. But power will be less. There are times when carb heat is needed all the time to keep from icing up. This sounds wrong, but summer is the worst time for carb ice. Gary Hinkle (A/P, COMM, INST, MULTI) garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:53:24 EDT To: davmck@verizon.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> 2L Type IV VW Engine tweaks Message-ID: <59.209a33cf.2a9e9244@cs.com> In a message dated 8/27/02 5:40:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, davmck@verizon.net writes: << I've once read that if the intake air to the carbs is fed from air that >>has already cooled the cylinders, a carb heat system is not required. As I >>want to keep mine as simple and light as possible, could anyone contradict >>this statement based on actual experience? >> As long as you are using a carburetor, you will need carb heat. I will assume that you know the reasons that ice forms. There have been a couple of times that my engine would not keep running without full heat applied. When you need to get rid of the ice, you need to do it now. The air on the bottom side of the cylinders is not as warm as you think. I have been flying for over 40yrs and have plenty of stories about carb ice problems. The carb heat system on my KR2 weights about 10oz. Works great. Gary Hinkle (A/P, COMM, INST, MULTI) garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 00:14:43 -0500 To: "'krnet@mailinglists.org'" From: "van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02)" Subject: Corvair engine? Hi David, My friend put an add in the parers looking for one. The closest he could find was the 80Hp version and he had to buy three in order to get them. I had a long and hard look at his engines and then decided to rather buy his now unused 2L type IV VW engine as I 'suspect' I could get more power for less weight and the crank has already been properly modified for aircraft use. The main aim for my project is to keep it light and the Corvair engine would force me into another category which would not justify my current design. Yes, I agree that it is a good engine for higher power output, but my whole airframe cg was designed for a light weight engine with the occupants sitting close to the actual cg and using a Corvair would force me to add dead weight to the tail rendering all my ideas thus far useless. Thank you for your reply. Regards, Hennie van Rooyen South Africa "Have you looked at the Corvair engines? Are they available there?" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 10:08:48 -0400 To: From: "jim wogaman" Subject: information Message-ID: <001401c24dd3$4503a460$60c429d1@jeannielobell> ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C24DB1.BC80C120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable KR flyers/builders: With the wood construction has anyone had problems = with high humidity? Could this plane be built in the same manner as the = Dragonfly? Thank you. jim wogaman jwog1@copper.net cleo :-) ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C24DB1.BC80C120-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 15:01:53 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: GoFlySlow2@aol.com Subject: HAPI Starter Message-ID: <8b.1d23b507.2a9d26a1@aol.com> --part1_8b.1d23b507.2a9d26a1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My Starter is slowing down badly. Searching the Archives I noted Richard Seifert's recommendation for Subaru Starter to replace the Bosch. (in the bottom position) Is this a "bolt on" deal or is there some modifications needed. Thanks for any help Chuck --part1_8b.1d23b507.2a9d26a1_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 18:40:08 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: GoFlySlow2@aol.com Subject: HAPI Starter Message-ID: --part1_b6.10c5d8ed.2a9d59c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After weighing the alternatives, I think that I'll just have the Bosch rebuilt. Have just completed an 1835 to 2180 conversion. Had to do it after a prop strike. I bought Tom Crawford's 54 x 48" repitched Sterba and hope it's about right. The 1835 had a 52x42 Great American The cast aluminum retract gear leg broke from metal fatigue and bolt holes drilled too closely together. At least it happened after landing and on very slow taxi. Can be seen at - http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM Chuck --part1_b6.10c5d8ed.2a9d59c8_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 18:43:31 -0700 To: , From: "bstarrs" Subject: Re: KR> HAPI Starter Message-ID: <005101c24e34$5165fee0$9200a8c0@bstarrs> The casting that held the landing gear in place broke on my retract about 6 years ago . It was a bad casting. When I called RR they said they did not make them any longer I couild not afford to pay for the newer fixed system so I just bolted the legs in the down position.Bill Starrs ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 3:40 PM Subject: KR> HAPI Starter > After weighing the alternatives, I think that I'll just have the Bosch > rebuilt. > > Have just completed an 1835 to 2180 conversion. Had to do it after a prop > strike. > I bought Tom Crawford's 54 x 48" repitched Sterba and hope it's about right. > The 1835 had a 52x42 Great American > The cast aluminum retract gear leg broke from metal fatigue and bolt holes > drilled too closely together. At least it happened after landing and on very > slow taxi. > Can be seen at - > http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM > Chuck > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 19:12:19 -0500 To: "krnet" From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Cable resource Message-ID: <000f01c24e27$92f6bcd0$18de1f41@Administration> ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C24DFD.A9FF2310 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_000C_01C24DFD.A9FF2310" ------=_NextPart_001_000C_01C24DFD.A9FF2310 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable http://www.savacable.com Good cable resource site. Ronald R. Eason Sr. ------=_NextPart_001_000C_01C24DFD.A9FF2310 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
Good cable resource site.

Ronald R. Eason=20 Sr.

------=_NextPart_001_000C_01C24DFD.A9FF2310-- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C24DFD.A9FF2310-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:31:12 -0400 To: From: "jim wogaman" Subject: humidity effects on wood Message-ID: <001b01c24e32$98d01420$cdc429d1@jeannielobell> ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C24E11.10E440C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable thank you Paul cleo :-) ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C24E11.10E440C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:30:46 +1200 To: From: Subject: wing area kr2s Message-ID: <000a01c24e43$4d0f0300$fd0b58db@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C24EA7.E169AFA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable guys i wish to increase my wing area (reduce stall speed) any ideas on = the best method i am about to start my spars and thought i should cover = this first thanks for any help Jeff Sanderson Kazzri@xtra.co.nz ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C24EA7.E169AFA0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 22:32:18 -0500 To: "KR Net Mail" From: "Patrick Driscoll" Subject: Washington Message-ID: <002401c24e43$83a68960$29dc6843@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C24E19.9A089D80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I will be going to The Yakima area from Oct. 16 to Oct 20 and then to = Seattle and Squim area from the 21st to the 28th. Anybody that is = building in that area, I'd like to hear from and see if I could get a = look at their projects. Pat Driscoll ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C24E19.9A089D80-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 09:15:24 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: Drilling question Message-ID: <006201c24e62$cacd2a00$23c621c4@co.za> ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C24E73.7165D5A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters, I am busy making quite a few aluminium spacers. I managed to find a good = way to cut the aluminium cylinders accurately and cleanly out of a solid = aluminium rod. For that, I used a plumber tube cutter to make a groove = around the rod, then I used my hacksaw to cut accurately on the groove. What I now battle with is making the bolt hole right at the center. Even = when my pilot hole is right, by the time it goes through the 20mm = spacer, the hole is skew. When I enlarge the hole to the final size, it = gets even worse. I tried to start the hole each side, and to drill half the length on = each side. Gets better, but still not well centered. Question 1: is there any secret about doing that? Question 2: Is there a rule about enlarging holes? How do you step the = diameter? Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C24E73.7165D5A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 02:24:55 -0500 To: From: "Deems Herring" Subject: RE: KR> Drilling question Message-ID: <000401c24e64$02507a80$6502a8c0@72n6x01> The only way I know to accurately drill something like that is to drill it using a lathe. If you don't have access to a lathe you should be able to make a jig with a V block to drill them with a drill press. Setting the jig up to center the hole will be time consuming but once its set up you should be able to drill all the bushings without moving the jig. Deems Herring, Baudette Minnesota mailto:ballross@wiktel.com -----Original Message----- From: Serge F. VIDAL [mailto:svidal@icon.co.za] Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 2:15 AM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> Drilling question Netters, I am busy making quite a few aluminium spacers. I managed to find a good way to cut the aluminium cylinders accurately and cleanly out of a solid aluminium rod. For that, I used a plumber tube cutter to make a groove around the rod, then I used my hacksaw to cut accurately on the groove. What I now battle with is making the bolt hole right at the center. Even when my pilot hole is right, by the time it goes through the 20mm spacer, the hole is skew. When I enlarge the hole to the final size, it gets even worse. I tried to start the hole each side, and to drill half the length on each side. Gets better, but still not well centered. Question 1: is there any secret about doing that? Question 2: Is there a rule about enlarging holes? How do you step the diameter? Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.381 / Virus Database: 214 - Release Date: 8/2/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.381 / Virus Database: 214 - Release Date: 8/2/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 11:04:17 -0300 To: "Phil Visconti" , "Owen MacPherson" , "Obispado de Holguin - Cuba" , "Munro, Alan" , "Mundle, Brad" , "Mulhern, Bob" , "Mr. Bryce Guenther" , "Milton MacPhee" , "Mike Swetnam" , "Mike Cormier" , "Michael Myrden" , "mel penney" , "Levy, Cheryl" , "LeBlanc Bell" , "LEE TRENCHARD" , , , , , "Kevin MacKenzie" , "Kevin Hayward" , "Kevin Beckwith" , "Ken Hanawalt" , "Karin & Mike Cormier" , "Kandi Reeder" , "Joseph Bergeron" , "Jim Morehead" , "Jerry Mahurin" , "James Hornell" , "Hebb, Derrick" , =?Windows-1252?Q?Hafsteinn_J=F3nasson?= , "Guenther Bryce" , "George Barr UH" , "Gaston Landry" , "Gary Bernard" , "Garth Wallace COPA" , "Garth Turner" , "Garland, Norm F" , "garbez" , "Frank Ross" , , "Edwin Blocher" , "Eduardo Iglesias" , , "Douglas J. Davenport" , , "David Hartz" , "DAVID BARNER" , "Dave Johnson" , "Darlene MacDonald" , "Dana Overall" , "Dan Diehl" , "Carter Pond" , "Carolyn Woodall" , "Carole" , "Bruce Cobo" , "Campbell, Hugh Justice \(JUS\) ATG" , "Brown, Nicole-Renee" , "Broadway Cafe" , "Boyington, Dawn" , , "Bob Unternaehrer" , "BOB HERVIEUX" , "Bob Eaton" , , "bill thomas" , "Belanger, Rene" , "BE GOOD TO YOU" , "Audrey and Harold Woods" , , "ANTHONY SOLDANO" , "Angela Hape" , , , "Allain, Edgar" , "Alex Blumen" , "Al Friesen" , , "aerobair" , , "320-1005-THOConsultingTeam" <320-THOConsultingTeam-1005@marc-harris.com>, "2ndcopylmc" <2ndcopylmc@lastminuteclub.com>, "1 Bad Man" From: "Jim Sellars" Subject: Fw: I want this back! Message-ID: <007301c24e9b$f09b1d30$0100a8c0@LAPTOP> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Eaton" To: "Mr. Joe Sullivan" Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 9:24 AM Subject: I want this back! > > Whether the below is true or not, the poem sure has a nice rhyme to it & > wishes you all well - which is the intention of this email. > > > Lte's give it a try. > Good Luck!!I hope it works... > > > > > > > > > >AN IRISH FRIENDSHIP WISH > > > > > > > > > >May there always be work for your hands to do; > > > > > > > > > >May your purse always hold a coin or two; > > > > > > > > > >May the sun always shine on your windowpane; > > > > > > > > > >May a rainbow be certain to follow each rain; > > > > > > > > > >May the hand of a friend always be near you; > > > > > > > > > >May God fill your heart with gladness to cheer you. > > > > > > > > > >OK, this is what you have to do.... > > > > > > > > > >Send this to your friends and include me! But - > > > > > > > > > >you HAVE to send this within 1 hour from when you open it! > > > > > > > > > >Now.................Make A wish!!!!!! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >I hope you made your wish! Now, if you send to: > > > > > > > > > >1 person --- your wish will be granted in 1 year > > > > > > > > > >3 people --- 6 months > > > > > > > > > >5 people --- 3 months > > > > > > > > > >6 people --- 1 month > > > > > > > > > >7 people --- 2 weeks > > > > > > > > > >8 people --- 1 week > > > > > > > > > >9 people --- 5 days > > > > > > > > > >10 people --- 3 days > > > > > > > > > >12 people --- 2 days > > > > > > > > > >15 people --- 1 day > > > > > > > > > >20 people --- 3 hours > > > > > > > > > >If you delete this after you read it... you > > > > > > > > > >will have 1 year of bad luck! > > > > > > > > > >But, if you send it to 2 of your friends, you > > > > > > > > > >will automatically have 3 years of good luck! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_____________________________________________________________ > > > >Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > > > > > > > > > >*************************************************************************** > > > * > > > >**** > > > >This email may contain confidential information, and is intended only > for > > > >the named recipient and may be privileged. Distribution or copying of > > this > > > >email by anyone other than the named recipient is prohibited. If you > are > > > >not the named recipient, please notify us immediately and permanently > > > >destroy this email and all copies of it. Internet email is not > private, > > > >secure, or reliable. No member of the HSBC Group is liable for any > errors > > > >or omissions in the content or transmission of this email. Any opinions > > > >contained in this email are solely those of the author and, unless > > clearly > > > >indicated otherwise in writing, are not endorsed by any member of the > > HSBC > > > >Group. > > > > > > >*************************************************************************** > > > * > > > >**** > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 13:13:54 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: GoFlySlow2@aol.com Subject: Response from GPASC re: HAPI Starter Message-ID: <125.15a158f8.2a9e5ed2@aol.com> --part1_125.15a158f8.2a9e5ed2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Got this e-mail from GPASC re. HAPI starter conversion. What do you think of the cost? **************** > Chuck: > > The starter is $149.95. It needs an adapter plate to fit the HAPI case, is > it $45.00. We do not stock them - they must be made at time of order - > usually takes 3 weeks. > > We have done over 100 replacement starters for Hapi/Mosler/Revmaster. > >> >> > Steve > Great Plains Aircraft > http://www.gpasc.com > > > From: GoFlySlow2@aol.com > >> Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 18:12:53 EDT >> To: gpasc@earthlink.net >> Subject: Starter Question >> >> > >> >> Will your geared starter fit a bottom mount HAPI case? >> Current starter is a Bosch 0001 160002 >> Chuck >> > > Chuck --part1_125.15a158f8.2a9e5ed2_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 20:29:36 -0500 To: From: "mike galloway" Subject: Re: KR on the way Message-ID: <003a01c24efb$898444e0$4c4eef0c@attbi.com> I will be leaving Dallas tomorow, Thursday, pulling an empty trailer to Pa to retrieve my KR2 project which I started building when I lived there, but had to temporarily leave behind when I moved. Kerry and Curtis have generously offered to let me keep it temporarily in their chicken house in Paris until I locate a suitable place in the east Dallas area to work on finishing it. Wish me luck on a lonnnnnng drive.:) Mike Galloway Mesquite, Tx ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************