From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 21 Nov 2002 07:51:36 -0000 Issue 553 Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 11:52 PM krnet Digest 21 Nov 2002 07:51:36 -0000 Issue 553 Topics (messages 13262 through 13286): Landing Gear 13262 by: Larry spar attactment 13263 by: larry flesner 13264 by: "" To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 23:01:25 -0600 To: From: "Larry" Cc: Subject: Landing Gear Message-ID: <003301c28f88$b6e85980$fedb28d8@l0c1i1> ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01C28F56.6B6473E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Justin, If I am understanding what you said about Cozy and Longeze builders = building their own landing gear, that is not correct. The builder buys a = fiberglass landing gear made from unidirectional strand and then has to = apply several layers of bidirectional cloth around it, just the same way = as a Dan Diehl main landing gear. Larry Howell laheze@ev1.net ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01C28F56.6B6473E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 22:56:18 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org, From: larry flesner Subject: spar attactment Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021118225618.008933f0@mail.midwest.net> At 07:38 PM 11/18/02 -0600, Caring Hearts EMS wrote: >Larry and fellow KRers >My question is what size bolt is used to bolt the bracket on the aft spar >bracket to the wing stub bracket it shows one bolt that holds them together. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Pat, I attempted to answer your question again with the answer below (I'll leave it in case it answers your question) but each time I read your question I get more confused. When you ask what SIZE bolt, are you asking "what diameter bolt" or are you asking "what length bolt"? Also , are you asking about the bolts that hold the brackets to the spar or are you asking about the bolts that hold the brackets together when you attach the wing? ALL THE BOLTS having ANYTHING to do with the rear spar attach brackets are the same diameter, 3/16". If it's the length you are trying to determine, get a ruler and a Wick's catalog and turn to the bolt section. It gives the dash numbers to order for each grip length. Larry Flesner ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ANSWER BEFORE CONFUSION SET IN :-) I'm not sure what you're looking at when you say "it shows one bolt that holds them together". The center section rear spar brackets attach to the outer wing rear spar brackets with four 3/16" bolts on EACH wing. See drawing #19 , 24page (first drawing on top of page). It shows top fittings only but bottom fittings are identical. The plywood is probably not a problem. When you put the fittings on for the last time, smear a small amount of flox in the voids and squeeze out the excess. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:57:52 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "" Subject: Re: KR> spar attactment Message-ID: <8261f67fe1684357bd224b36950e3652.caringheartsems@superpa.net> Thanks Larry that does answer my question I guess I was more worried about the correct part number the the right size of the bolt I tryed the 3/16 and they bolted right up thank you again for your hel= p Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: larry flesner Sent: 11/18/2002 11:56:18 PM To: KRnet@mailinglists=2Eorg;KRnet@mailinglists=2Eorg Subject: KR> spar attactment > At 07:38 PM 11/18/02 -0600, Caring Hearts EMS wrote: > >Larry and fellow KRers > >My question is what size bolt is used to bolt the bracket on the aft spar > >bracket to the wing stub bracket it shows one bolt that holds them together= =2E > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > Pat, >=20 > I attempted to answer your question again with the answer=20 > below (I'll leave it in case it answers your question) but each=20 > time I read your question I get more confused=2E When you ask=20 > what SIZE bolt, are you asking "what diameter bolt" or are you=20 > asking "what length bolt"? Also , are you asking about the bolts > that hold the brackets to the spar or are you asking about the=20 > bolts that hold the brackets together when you attach the wing? > ALL THE BOLTS having ANYTHING to do with the rear spar attach > brackets are the same diameter, 3/16"=2E If it's the length you are > trying to determine, get a ruler and a Wick's catalog and turn > to the bolt section=2E It gives the dash numbers to order for each > grip length=2E =20 >=20 > Larry Flesner >=20 > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > ANSWER BEFORE CONFUSION SET IN :-) > I'm not sure what you're looking at when you say "it shows one > bolt that holds them together"=2E >=20 > The center section rear spar brackets attach to the outer wing > rear spar brackets with four 3/16" bolts on EACH wing=2E=20 > See drawing #19 , 24page (first drawing on top of page)=2E > It shows top fittings only but bottom fittings are identical=2E >=20 > The plywood is probably not a problem=2E When you put the=20 > fittings on for the last time, smear a small amount of flox=20 > in the voids and squeeze out the excess=2E=20 >=20 > Larry Flesner >=20 >=20 >=20 > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists=2Eorg , NOT "reply all" >=20 > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists=2Eorg=20 > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists=2Eorg >=20 > See the KRNet archives at http://www=2Emaddyhome=2Ecom/krsrch/index=2Ejsp > or http://www=2Ebouyea=2Enet/ for the Word files >=20 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 08:29:25 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: CHOCTAWCWR@aol.com Subject: NO Message-ID: <119.1aeca052.2b0b96b5@aol.com> ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 07:42:59 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Sanding smooth prime Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021119074259.0089a750@mail.midwest.net> >I will no doubt be chastised to no end for this comment, but I've been using 50 grit sandpaper almost exclusively up to now to do all of the basic shaping and feather sanding, leaving a little more left for finer sandpaper. snip============================ >Right now I'm sanding the Smooth Prime down with 125 grit in the orbital palm sander, and it looks smooth as glass. >Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Mark, I doubt if you are going to catch too much flak here. I use mostly 100 and 150 grit. I use 80 grit to do some of the initial sanding on the fill, switch to 100 grit for larger areas when I want to take off considerable amounts of fill or primer and try to finish with the 150 grit or maybe 220 if I think it is the final sanding. Strips of sandpaper wrapped around a sanding sponge works great on curved surfaces. I think we are probably in violent agreement here. :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:41:06 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: A Suggestion for Sanding Large Surfaces Message-ID: <002b01c2901c$c39fa9a0$a109eccf@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C28FD9.B185B400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello all. After reading Larry's note about using an orbital sander on his Smooth = Primed surfaces, I thought I'd throw this note in... To obtain a good finish on a surface is not so much a matter of sanding = it with fine paper, but of sanding it 'flat'. You could very easily = have a glass smooth surface finish, but if that surface rolled like sand = dunes, the glass like surface is not going to look good at all. In finishing large wood hulls we sand by hand using sanding boards. The = sanding boards are large, usually at least 11" x 18", slightly flexible, = and built lightly. When using them you get a kinda zen like motion = going incorporating your entire body. I can complete a sanding job on = what will be a show finish, bright finished 36 ft hull in less than 6 = hours. The big secret to the sanding board producing a better finish than a = sander is that it sands large areas at once. If you think about it, you = could use 1000G paper on your surface, it would provide a very glossy = finish, but if the size of paper you were using was only 2" x 3", = there's no way at all that you're going to uniformly sand every 6 square = inches of surface area the same amount or the same way. You will end up = with a sand dune pattern. Anyways, being someone who DOES like sanding, I've offer the above = hoping it may be of assistance to someone. If anyone would like to know = more about sanding boards, look in the archives, I've posted a note or = two about them a couple of years ago. Peter mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C28FD9.B185B400-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:48:57 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> A Suggestion for Sanding Large Surfaces Message-ID: <00bb01c29036$fdf375e0$0100a8c0@TD310> Peter Johnson wrote: >>After reading Larry's note about using an orbital sander on his Smooth Primed surfaces, I thought I'd throw this note in...<< I'm not sure it that was Larry or me, but I figured somebody would mention that, and you are absolutely right. My only defense is that I'm talking about the bottom of the plane, and I'm really tired of screwing around with stuff that doesn't show. If nothing else, getting the whole bottom of the plane one color certainly helps to show the places that need work, although it could be argued that an oblique light would do the same. I spent an hour this afternoon sanding the whole bottom down, and in about another hour I'll be ready to shoot urethane primer on it and call it "done enough" to flip over and get down to the real work at hand! Those brave enough to crawl under my plane and look at the stub wing fillets may shriek in horror and run flailing down the tarmac, but at least I'll have FLOWN there! The top is a different story, and it's already fairly decent due to me taking more care in general. I guess I'm already expecting to make this thing a KR testbed, similar to Klaus Savier's plane, so there will be plenty of "opportunities" to resand and repaint, but I'm not sure that a perfectly smooth bottom is tops on my list. I talked to Troy Petteway recently, and he's just thrilled with his plane and the way it performs. It's contagious, and I want my own fun machine ASAP, smooth bottom or not. Maybe I'll worry about perfection on the next plane, when I'll have N56ML to fly while I'm building... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:55:36 -0800 (PST) To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Tim Brown Subject: Re: KR> A Suggestion for Sanding Large Surfaces Message-ID: <20021120035536.51413.qmail@web40908.mail.yahoo.com> > be ready to shoot urethane primer on it and > call it "done enough" to flip > over and get down to the real work at hand! Hey all: Saw Mark use this phrase "done enough" and thought I'd share. My wife and I built our own house...every nail, plumbing, HVAC and electrical wire down to the foundation. It took 3 years of work, getting off work at 6 and going to the site at 8PM and working until 2 and 18 hours each weekend day. The point is, at midnight or so while building my wife and I would look at each other and say...."good enough" so we started saying that the house was being build by Good Enough Construction Company. It has now with stood over a dozen winters of 5 foot snow storms, 75 MPH winds and 3 Major earthquakes of over 7.0. In my book, good enough is good enough. GET FLYING, then tweak the bird. Tim __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site http://webhosting.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:19:14 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Crkr2s@aol.com Subject: yes Message-ID: <12d.1b5fa0e7.2b0c6742@aol.com> ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:31:47 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> yes Message-ID: <20021119.233149.-341097.2.virgnvs@juno.com> What kind of message is this, Virg On Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:19:14 EST Crkr2s@aol.com writes: > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:29:16 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: An Option to Rolling the Plane Over Message-ID: <007601c29066$aa78c2a0$8209eccf@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0072_01C29023.79FD6560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Two things came together for me tonight that I thought I'd pass along as = something that may be of assistance to someone in the future. Right now I'm getting ready to mold the windshield and gullwing glass. = Building the plane in a 22 ft x 26 shop doesn't leave a lot of room and = I had to do something with the fuse to allow me to build a heat box and = handle the molds. What I did was drill and turn a couple of eye lagbolts into the ceiling, = hung three-part block and tackles, and lifted the fuse up and out of the = way. It balanced almost perfectly on off the rear spar. After taking a photo of the situation I realized that hanging the fuse = like this will be a great way to finish the fuse and wing bottoms. The = fuse could be hung as needed to allow comfortable work while sitting in = a chair. Anyways, hope this is of help... mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0072_01C29023.79FD6560-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:50:42 -0800 (PST) To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Sky Rider Subject: Re: KR> An Option to Rolling the Plane Over Message-ID: <20021120075042.17406.qmail@web11603.mail.yahoo.com> --0-265972468-1037778642=:17369 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I have the fixed main gear legs for anyone building a tricycle KR or similar bird... would like to either sell or trade for instruments, VW engine parts, or other usable items for a retract KR...I'm not sure of the value, if anyone has suggestions I welcome that information Sky Peter Johnson wrote:Two things came together for me tonight that I thought I'd pass along as something that may be of assistance to someone in the future. Right now I'm getting ready to mold the windshield and gullwing glass. Building the plane in a 22 ft x 26 shop doesn't leave a lot of room and I had to do something with the fuse to allow me to build a heat box and handle the molds. What I did was drill and turn a couple of eye lagbolts into the ceiling, hung three-part block and tackles, and lifted the fuse up and out of the way. It balanced almost perfectly on off the rear spar. After taking a photo of the situation I realized that hanging the fuse like this will be a great way to finish the fuse and wing bottoms. The fuse could be hung as needed to allow comfortable work while sitting in a chair. Anyways, hope this is of help... mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site --0-265972468-1037778642=:17369-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 08:07:27 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Peg and Mike Meyer Subject: Re: KR> An Option to Rolling the Plane Over Message-id: <001d01c2909e$28848080$128cfea9@o0c8u6> Yeah, I'm interested. I would like to convert my retractable gear to a fixed gear. Who makes the fixed main gear that you want to trade? I'll be out out of town for the next 4 days, and I will return on Saturday afternoon. Please keep me advised. Mike Meyer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sky Rider" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 1:50 AM Subject: Re: KR> An Option to Rolling the Plane Over > > I have the fixed main gear legs for anyone building a tricycle KR or similar bird... > would like to either sell or trade for instruments, VW engine parts, or other usable items for a retract KR...I'm not sure of the value, if anyone has suggestions I welcome that information > Sky > Peter Johnson wrote:Two things came together for me tonight that I thought I'd pass along as something that may be of assistance to someone in the future. > > Right now I'm getting ready to mold the windshield and gullwing glass. Building the plane in a 22 ft x 26 shop doesn't leave a lot of room and I had to do something with the fuse to allow me to build a heat box and handle the molds. > > What I did was drill and turn a couple of eye lagbolts into the ceiling, hung three-part block and tackles, and lifted the fuse up and out of the way. It balanced almost perfectly on off the rear spar. > > After taking a photo of the situation I realized that hanging the fuse like this will be a great way to finish the fuse and wing bottoms. The fuse could be hung as needed to allow comfortable work while sitting in a chair. > > Anyways, hope this is of help... > > > mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca > > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 10:48:30 +0000 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "Richard Parker" Subject: Re:"good enough" Message-ID: I've got to say Mark L's "good enough" is probably better than the "best effort" that I've seen on a lot of planes. (including mine) Rich Parker Peterborough, NH >From: Tim Brown >Reply-To: KRnet@mailinglists.org >To: KRnet@mailinglists.org >Subject: Re: KR> A Suggestion for Sanding Large Surfaces >Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 19:55:36 -0800 (PST) > > > be ready to shoot urethane primer on it and > > call it "done enough" to flip > > over and get down to the real work at hand! > >Hey all: > >Saw Mark use this phrase "done enough" and >thought I'd share. > >My wife and I built our own house...every nail, >plumbing, HVAC and electrical wire down to the >foundation. It took 3 years of work, getting off >work at 6 and going to the site at 8PM and >working until 2 and 18 hours each weekend day. > >The point is, at midnight or so while building my >wife and I would look at each other and >say...."good enough" so we started saying that >the house was being build by Good Enough >Construction Company. > >It has now with stood over a dozen winters of 5 >foot snow storms, 75 MPH winds and 3 Major >earthquakes of over 7.0. > >In my book, good enough is good enough. GET >FLYING, then tweak the bird. > >Tim > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site >http://webhosting.yahoo.com > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 21:57:57 +1100 To: "KRnet" From: "John and Janet Martindale" Subject: Sandpaper Message-ID: <007701c29083$e961a000$bcde12d2@m1g0x7> ------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C290DF.E28B9360 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Whatever you do Mark, don't use No.1 grit off the runway. I tried that = on my prop tips and you definitely can't fix it with smooth prime or any = other kind of prime other than whisky. One way to sand wings that I posted a while ago: Use a long sanding = board (say 8 feet) parallel to the leading edge to initially sand down = small raised lines of filler laid at right angles to the edge about 2 = feet apart to a flush level. Then fill between the lines with filler = using a 2 foot trowel. Sand again with the long board using a finer grit = and bingo, nice flat wings with a minimium of wastage and sanding = effort.=20 John and Janet Martindale 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA ph: 61 2 6658 4767 email: johnjane@chc.net.au ------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C290DF.E28B9360-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 11:33:58 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Gary Ainsworth Subject: Re: KR> Sandpaper Message-ID: At Wednesday, 20 November 2002, you wrote: >Whatever you do Mark, don't use No.1 grit off the runway. I tried that >on my prop tips and you definitely can't fix it with smooth prime or any >other kind of prime other than whisky. > >G'Day Jon and Janet. How about some new pictures to your site on Mark's web. It's one of my favourites but not much change lately. Could you enter the carb debate on the Corvaircraft list? or state your choice and trials so far on the krnet and I'm sure someone will see that it gets to the corvair site. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 06:13:13 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Aft spar attach Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021120061313.008731c0@mail.midwest.net> My dilema is that if I install the brackets, they become too wide to attach to the aft center spar. Bill Clapp >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= I haven't seen anyone make any suggestions on this so I'll throw something out here. Seems to me this would make both sets of brackets, center section and wing panel, equal distance apart and brackets would would come together end to end when you install the wing. Engineer types, is there any reason the the rear outer spar brackets MUST install INSIDE the center section rear spar brackets or could the outer wing brackets be bolted to the forward face of each center section bracket? If possible it would eliminate the need to rework the spar. Just a thought. Your results may vary. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 23:12:22 +0000 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Daren Cogdon" Subject: KR1 3-view Message-ID: Does anyone have a half-decent KR1 three-view they can perhaps forward me so that I can use them for drawing up a KR1-based Me109? Cheers _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:52:00 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: TIM BOYER Subject: Plywood ribs Message-Id: <20021120235200.AA0EA4420@sitemail.everyone.net> Hey Guys Today I cut my plywood wing ribs My eyes aren't the same and I ran off my cutting line in some places about 1/8in at the most. Should I be conerned or is there a way to correct this? Thanks Tim _____________________________________________________________ A free email account your friends will never forget! Get YOURNAME@EmailAccount.com at http://www.emailaccount.com/ _____________________________________________________________ Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@yourchoice.com w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 16:02:26 -0600 To: From: "Justin" Subject: Re: KR> Plywood ribs Message-ID: <000501c290e0$8395c5a0$e87ba8c0@socal.rr.com> Are all yoru ribs cut exactly like this one or is one like this and the others ok? Remember that when your in icy conditions and you get alittle tiny bit of ice, it makes a HUGE difference. Dont recut at your own risk, plywod is cheap. I woudl just recut. Justin KR2S Completed 1 side boat ----- Original Message ----- From: "TIM BOYER" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 5:52 PM Subject: KR> Plywood ribs > Hey Guys > > Today I cut my plywood wing ribs My eyes aren't the same and I ran off my cutting line in some places about 1/8in at the most. Should I be conerned or is there a way to correct this? > > Thanks > Tim > > _____________________________________________________________ > A free email account your friends will never forget! > Get YOURNAME@EmailAccount.com at http://www.emailaccount.com/ > > _____________________________________________________________ > Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@yourchoice.com w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 19:04:39 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Plywood ribs Message-Id: <3DDC4D47.00000B.01052@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_RJOWCJD0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_SJOW7TH0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_SJOW7TH0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I would be very concerned as these ribs are the form for the wing. If yo= u get started wrong, you will be fighting it all the way. I would do it ov= er.=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 03:52:20 PM=0D To: krnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: KR> Plywood ribs=0D =0D Hey Guys=0D =0D Today I cut my plywood wing ribs My eyes aren't the same and I ran off my cutting line in some places about 1/8in at the most. Should I be conerned= or is there a way to correct this?=0D =0D Thanks=0D Tim=0D =0D _____________________________________________________________=0D A free email account your friends will never forget!=0D Get YOURNAME@EmailAccount.com at http://www.emailaccount.com/=0D =0D _____________________________________________________________=0D Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@yourchoice.com w/N= o Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=3Dtag=0D =0D ---------------------------------------------------------------------=0D To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"=0D =0D To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org =0D For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org=0D =0D See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp=0D or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files=0D =0D =2E=20 --------------Boundary-00=_SJOW7TH0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I would be very concerned as these ribs are the form for the wing.&n= bsp; If you get started wrong, you will be fighting it all the way. = I would do it over.
 

DanRH@KR-Builder.org

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Daniel R= =2E Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder= =2Eorg  Click on the Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

 

-------Original Message-------
 
Date: Wednesday, N= ovember 20, 2002 03:52:20 PM
Subject: KR> Pl= ywood ribs
 
Hey Guys

Today I cut my plywood wing ribs My eyes= aren't the same and I ran off my cutting line in some places about 1/8in= at the most. Should I be conerned or is there a way to correct this?
=
Thanks
Tim

________________________________________________= _____________
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--------------Boundary-00=_SJOW7TH0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_RJOWCJD0000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 19:01:32 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Barry Michels Subject: Re: KR> Plywood ribs Message-Id: <200211201901.32556.bmichels@barrymichels.com> mmmm, tastes kinda . . . woody Couldn't resist... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 18:21:00 -0600 To: , From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Re: KR> Plywood ribs Message-ID: <000601c290f3$defefa20$05d81a18@hot.rr.com> Hi Tim: Use some small clamps ands clamp all of the ribs of the same size together and hand sand them so that all are exactly the same. That's all it takes ----- Original Message ----- From: "TIM BOYER" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 5:52 PM Subject: KR> Plywood ribs > Hey Guys > > Today I cut my plywood wing ribs My eyes aren't the same and I ran off my cutting line in some places about 1/8in at the most. Should I be conerned or is there a way to correct this? > > Thanks > Tim > > _____________________________________________________________ > A free email account your friends will never forget! > Get YOURNAME@EmailAccount.com at http://www.emailaccount.com/ > > _____________________________________________________________ > Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@yourchoice.com w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 17:53:13 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Rick Wilson Subject: wing ribs Message-ID: <20021121015313.49109.qmail@web21206.mail.yahoo.com> If you undercut them I would definitely do them over. The wing you end up with will take the shape of the ribs you begin with. Rick Wilson. rwdw2002@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site http://webhosting.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 02:51:18 -0500 To: From: "Gary W. Haun" Subject: KR-1 Message-ID: <000301c29132$c6c61da0$6401a8c0@haun4> ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C29108.DDF015A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, Thanks for all the tips both on and off the KRnet. I pick up my first engine Saturday. It's a 62-63 102HP for $35.00 and is complete except for some of the tin. Turns over by hand and was running when removed from the donor car. I already have some plans for the rods and crankshaft if the crankshaft isn't forged. Around here the 95/110 HP cores are $250.00 and up. Gary W. Haun KR-1 #5985 ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C29108.DDF015A0-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************