From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 6 Jan 2003 22:18:01 -0000 Issue 599 Date: Monday, January 06, 2003 2:18 PM krnet Digest 6 Jan 2003 22:18:01 -0000 Issue 599 Topics (messages 14287 through 14316): Kit Log 14287 by: Dana Overall Re: How to fit wingtip mounted lights? 14288 by: Mark Langford 14289 by: Bill Higdon Cowling info 14290 by: Bryan and Avril Valentine Re: tailwheel landing 14291 by: rossy Re: Where to find that? 14292 by: RFG842.aol.com British KR1s and dimensions 14293 by: Daren Cogdon 14298 by: Ed Janssen 14302 by: virgnvs.juno.com Re: Type Certificate for KR2-S 14294 by: Louis Staalberg 14301 by: JEAN VERON trim tab update 14295 by: Mark Langford 14296 by: Rick Hubka aileron & elevator balance 14297 by: Rick Wilson 14300 by: Robert X. Cringely 14303 by: larry flesner 14306 by: Jim V. Wickert Gross weight KR2S 14299 by: Justin 14304 by: larry flesner 14305 by: gleone test 14307 by: Serge Vidal How to plug a hole in the tail floor? 14308 by: Serge Vidal 14309 by: larry flesner 14310 by: Serge Vidal 14311 by: Jim V. Wickert 14315 by: larry flesner RAM AIR 14312 by: Eric Evezard Martin Hollman books 14313 by: Oscar Zuniga Dr Dean Hinges / Question 14314 by: Phillip Matheson 14316 by: larry flesner Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 19:11:08 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Kit Log Message-ID: Gang, I bought a copy of Kitlog Pro at SNF last year more as a favor to a fellow building. I forgot about it until much later before I ended up installing it. I know everyone keeps a very well documented builders log..................right?? Anyway, I started using this program and it is one of the most value plus items I have ever bought while building two airplanes. You can go to their website at http://www.kitlog.com/ to check it out. I think it sells for $39.95. You can download a fully operational trial program free for 15 days from the site. You don't even need to give them a credit card to be charged later if you don't get back with them about the free download. If you like it, all you do is credit card pay them and they give you a permanent unlock code. Very, very easy to use. Besides giving you a great way to document your construction, it also has a slew of FAA forms you can print off to make sure you have everything for your inspection. Dana Overall Richmond, KY 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 20:57:48 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> How to fit wingtip mounted lights? Message-ID: <0aef01c2b466$3b141170$0100a8c0@TD310> Serge wrote: >>Therefore, I thought I might be able to use a very long piece of hard wire to poke through the wings, all the way through the wing gap seals. Now, after having had a look at the construction manual, I have doubts. There seem to be some plywood ribs on the way. Is that correct? If yes, any ideas on how I could route these wires?<< Serge, I don't claim to be an expert on how to build a KR by the plans, so somebody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the only plywood ribs are at the very ends of the wing, one at the root, and one at the tip, which also serve as templates to sand the airfoil contour into the foam. The other ribs are styrofoam with no glass on the faces, so you could make a "hole saw" out of a piece of 1/2" steel conduit (thinwall steel tubing) or something similar, about 8' long, with serations cut into one end like the teeth of a hole saw. Use a real holesaw to cut through the tip plywood rip at the point where you want your strobes, and then put a level on the conduit (and maybe use another one held by an assistant) to visualize where you're going with it. Chuck it up in a half inch drill and go exploring! Hopefully you'll come out in the root somewhere, rather than the upper or lower surface, without cutting anything important. Once the conduit is through the root template, tape a piece of plastic tubing to the end of the conduit and pull it out through the root (I ASSume the wings are off), and you'll have a ready-made plastic conduit for your wires. I would probably put this hole in the area just behind the leading edge, and in front of the main spar, so you don't have to worry about hitting any aileron bellcrank kinds of things that might be important. Maybe this will give you an idea or two anyway... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 19:32:52 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Bill Higdon Subject: Re: KR> How to fit wingtip mounted lights? Message-ID: <3E17A764.6020405@attbi.com> Serge, My 2 cents worh, I'd use a piece of thin wall aluminum tubing with a drill bit in the end to make the hole. Then, I'd use either another piece of tubing for a wire conduit through the wing. Bill Higdon Serge Vidal wrote: > I want to install some wingtip-mounted lights on my KR2. So, I have to route > some wires to the wingtips. The trouble is, the wings are closed (my KR has > been flying for 8 years). I did not build the plane, so I'm not too sure how > KR2 wings are built. I have been told that KR ribs are made of foam. > Therefore, I thought I might be able to use a very long piece of hard wire > to poke through the wings, all the way through the wing gap seals. Now, > after having had a look at the construction manual, I have doubts. There > seem to be some plywood ribs on the way. Is that correct? If yes, any ideas > on how I could route these wires? > > Serge Vidal > KR2 ZS-WEC > Johannesburg, South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 20:35:36 -0800 To: From: "Bryan and Avril Valentine" Subject: Cowling info Message-ID: <003b01c2b473$f7a946e0$2a29efcc@m3k1t8> Greetings All: I have begun fabricating a cowl for the KR2S. But now I have to decide how far forward the cowl sits! Can any one tell me how far behind the prop hub, does the cowl sit?? I don't have a prop and spinner yet to jig it up thus the confesing question (distance from the front edge of the cowling to the aft edge of the prop flange (2180 Vw) I think that makes more sense) Prop is on order but I haven't recieved it yet. Spinner yet to be aquired as the prop wasn't the normal 2.75 thick"and I thought the GP Aircraft spinner I was going to order might not work? so I"m waiting for the prop. Any assistence would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance Val ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 04:32:50 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: rossy Subject: Re: KR> tailwheel landing Message-ID: <3E1825F2.59B46E88@attbi.com> I was talking with a King Schools person on the phone and they recommended the book "The Compleat[sic] Taildragger pilot". This book covers everything you want to know about flying a conventional gear (aka taildragger) aircraft. It was recommended by a couple of taildragger instructor pilots. I took some dual in a piper cub, a cessna 140, but finally got checked out in an aeronca champ. It was fun, and not too bad. I really enjoyed wheel landings. Some instructors don't like to do them, but you get slightly better directional control doing these, and I'm told that KR's are hard to put in a three-point configuration. The hardest thing I had to try and learn was to think "land tail first" which would get me into an attitude where I thought the tail would land first, but it was basicly a good three point attitude. It's been several years since I checked out, so I'd have to do most of it over again... but it was real fun! -- Ross Kevin wrote: > > Tailwheel aircraft are neat looking, but when someone gets to talking about > the training wheel on some airplanes it would remind me of a comedian that > would dress up like an old man and talk about the old days. He would talk > about how we used to run with razor sharp knives when we were kids and if we > fell down there would be no mamby pamby wining about it. We would jump up, > wipe the blood off of the wound and we would be fine! We were just fine and > we LOVED IT! Everything we did crazy he would say we LOVED IT! > > I have flown a Cessna 140 and a Champ a few times, but I am far from an expert > at taildraggers, nor would either of these aircraft qualify me to be. I wish > I was a better tailwheel pilot. > > Kevin Golden. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files I ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 09:09:51 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: RFG842@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Where to find that? Message-ID: <77.65e5a71.2b4996af@aol.com> --part1_77.65e5a71.2b4996af_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit George I really can't add anything to Mark's reply. It's good advice. Bob, Wichita --part1_77.65e5a71.2b4996af_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 16:33:38 +0000 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Daren Cogdon" Subject: British KR1s and dimensions Message-ID: Hey dudes Anyone know of any British-registered KR1s? I know the PFA approves the KR2 (saw it in the 1995 handbook), but not the KR1. And also, I'm a bit puzzled by the dimensions some websites give for the fuselage lengths. www.fly-kr.com gives the fuselage length as 12' 9" http://www.greatplainsas.com/kr1.html give the fuselage length at 15' 9" Probably a misprint, as fly-KR shows a pic of the original KR1 and it looks pretty titchy. Daz _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM: Try the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 14:26:27 -0600 To: From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Subject: Re: KR> British KR1s and dimensions Message-ID: <001e01c2b4f8$bb11f300$7ec3fc3f@dad> Daz, A little under 13 feet is correct for the stock KR-1 fuse. length. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daren Cogdon" To: Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:33 AM Subject: KR> British KR1s and dimensions > > Hey dudes > > Anyone know of any British-registered KR1s? I know the PFA approves the KR2 > (saw it in the 1995 handbook), but not the KR1. > > And also, I'm a bit puzzled by the dimensions some websites give for the > fuselage lengths. > > www.fly-kr.com gives the fuselage length as 12' 9" > http://www.greatplainsas.com/kr1.html give the fuselage length at 15' 9" > > Probably a misprint, as fly-KR shows a pic of the original KR1 and it looks > pretty titchy. > > Daz > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Help STOP SPAM: Try the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:51:06 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> British KR1s and dimensions Message-ID: <20030105.210011.-228197.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Is one Firewall aft and the other Prop aft, Virg On Sun, 05 Jan 2003 16:33:38 +0000 "Daren Cogdon" writes: > > Hey dudes > > Anyone know of any British-registered KR1s? I know the PFA approves > the KR2 > (saw it in the 1995 handbook), but not the KR1. > > And also, I'm a bit puzzled by the dimensions some websites give for > the > fuselage lengths. > > www.fly-kr.com gives the fuselage length as 12' 9" > http://www.greatplainsas.com/kr1.html give the fuselage length at > 15' 9" > > Probably a misprint, as fly-KR shows a pic of the original KR1 and > it looks > pretty titchy. > > Daz > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Help STOP SPAM: Try the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 10:32:47 -0700 To: From: "Louis Staalberg" Subject: Re: KR> Type Certificate for KR2-S Message-ID: <000f01c2b4e0$8dbddee0$0200a8c0@toshiba> Dear Szakacs, Type Certificated aircraft are aircraft that have been built in big factories such as Cessna and Boeing. KR's and otherAmateur built aircraft are classified in the Experimental Aircraft catagory. Before an Experimental aircraft is allowed to fly it must be inspected by the FAA (Federal Aviation Authority). The builder will then be issued an "Air Worthiness Certificate" and the pilot is ready to fly. Therefore, *every* KR that is flying has an Air Worthiness Certificate. What you should do is ask if several of the pilots with an Air Worthiness Certificate would be kind enough to make a Xerox copy and mail it to you. Of course you have to give them your mailing address. I am sure that there are many pilots who would be glad to spend the money on an airmail stamp to help you out. Regards, Louis Staalberg N9FL@cybertrails.com Payson, Arizona ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 18:42:39 -0600 To: "KRNet" From: "JEAN VERON" Subject: Re: KR> Type Certificate for KR2-S Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2B5B3.645BB3A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Steve Trentman found out that you don't even need a "type certificate" i= f you put a turbine engine on one. =20 ----- Original Message ----- From: Louis Staalberg Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:36 AM To: KRnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Type Certificate for KR2-S =20 Dear Szakacs, Type Certificated aircraft are aircraft that have been built in big factories such as Cessna and Boeing. KR's and otherAmateur built aircraft are classified in the Experimental A= ircraft catagory. Before an Experimental aircraft is allowed to fly it must be inspected by the FAA (Federal Aviation Authority). The builder will then be issued an "Air Worthiness Certificate" and the pilot is ready to fly. Therefore, *every* KR that is flying has an Air Worthiness Certificate. What you should do is ask if several of the pilots with an Air Worthiness Certificate would be kind enough to make a Xerox copy and mail it to you. Of course you have to give them your mailing address. I am sure that there are many pilots who would be glad to spend the money on an airmail stamp to help you out. Regards, Louis Staalberg N9FL@cybertrails.com Payson, Arizona --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org =20 For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2B5B3.645BB3A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 12:38:55 -0600 To: "KRnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: trim tab update Message-ID: <0b0101c2b4e9$b451e200$0100a8c0@TD310> KRNetHeads, I've finally gotten off my dead butt and detailed how I made my trim tab with MAC servo. It's nothing special, done as you'd do the ailerons "per plans", but at least it's done. The URL is http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/trimtab/ . Before I started I went looking on the web for trimtab installations to get some ideas, and found precious little regarding composite planes. Don Reid has an interesting servo installation on his web site ("Latest", see a photo at http://users.erols.com/donreid/photos/Latest/trim.jpg ). His method keeps the elevator light by moving the servo to the fuselage, and therefore requires less counterbalancing. I probably could have managed something similar, but I have that big counterweight mounted right there, so I punted instead. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 12:23:19 -0700 To: From: "Rick Hubka" Subject: RE: KR> trim tab update Message-ID: <000001c2b4ef$ea937170$3202a8c0@hubka22> Thanks... Great job Mark! I've now have a new 17 page instruction manual sitting next to my MAC servo. However... Now I need to get off my dead butt. Currently semi-working on the wing stub fuel tanks. Rick Hubka rick@hubka.com http://www.hubka.com/kr_main.htm Calgary Alberta Canada -----Original Message----- From: Mark Langford [mailto:langford@hiwaay.net] Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:39 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> trim tab update KRNetHeads, I've finally gotten off my dead butt and detailed how I made my trim tab with MAC servo. It's nothing special, done as you'd do the ailerons "per plans", but at least it's done. The URL is http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/trimtab/ . Before I started I went looking on the web for trimtab installations to get some ideas, and found precious little regarding composite planes. Don Reid has an interesting servo installation on his web site ("Latest", see a photo at http://users.erols.com/donreid/photos/Latest/trim.jpg ). His method keeps the elevator light by moving the servo to the fuselage, and therefore requires less counterbalancing. I probably could have managed something similar, but I have that big counterweight mounted right there, so I punted instead. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:37:44 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Rick Wilson Subject: aileron & elevator balance Message-ID: <20030105193744.62222.qmail@web21205.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, My ailerons and elevator have balance weights on them but I'm not sure if the builder checked them after they were painted. My question is, If the ailerons and elevator are partially balanced, will this help avoid flutter? Thanks, Rick Wilson __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 14:27:17 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "Robert X. Cringely" Subject: Re: KR> aileron & elevator balance Message-Id: Yes. Partial balance is better than no balance at all. Bob >Hi, My ailerons and elevator have balance weights on >them but I'm not sure if the builder checked them >after they were painted. My question is, If the >ailerons and elevator are partially balanced, will >this help avoid flutter? Thanks, Rick Wilson > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >http://mailplus.yahoo.com > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files -- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 07:34:51 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: aileron & elevator balance Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20030106073451.00801100@mail.midwest.net> >>Hi, My ailerons and elevator have balance weights on >>them but I'm not sure if the builder checked them >>after they were painted. My question is, If the >>ailerons and elevator are partially balanced, will >>this help avoid flutter? Thanks, Rick Wilson +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= >Yes. Partial balance is better than no balance at all. >Bob +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From the book "Sportplane Construction Techniques" by Tony Bingelis, page 144, 145 : "100% balanced and overbalanced (nose down) are best. Underbalanced (tail heavy) is the least desirable and may result in unpredictable flight Performance." I'll repeat the opinion of many on the KRnet. If you don't already have Tony's books you should order them and read them cover to cover. They are an easy read and have a great deal of info for us "know nothing" builders. Larry Flesner flesner@midwest.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 09:59:20 -0500 To: "INTERNET:KRnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Jim V. Wickert" Subject: KR> aileron & elevator balance Message-ID: <200301060959_MC3-1-22E1-992B@compuserve.com> Rick = It's not that hard to balance them. And if they are balanced and perfect= it's at least mind setteling! Jim W ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 13:06:07 -0600 To: From: "Justin" Subject: Gross weight KR2S Message-ID: <000a01c2b4ed$85723b20$68d91818@socal.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2B4BB.359A8BC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Any one with a flying KR2S. Does anyone have wing tanks installed and = able to carry a passenger with full fuel, header tank and wing tanks = full with 2 180lb people.=20 Just some thinking, Justin, KR2S http://n116jw.topcities.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2B4BB.359A8BC0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 07:54:17 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Gross weight KR2S Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20030106075417.00907bb0@mail.midwest.net> >Any one with a flying KR2S. Does anyone have wing tanks installed and able to carry a passenger with full fuel, header tank and wing tanks full with 2 180lb people. >Justin, KR2S +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Three things to consider here: First, will the structure handle it? There are some pretty heavy KR's out there flying just fine. This is not my way of saying "yes" but something to think about. Second, will the C.G. stay in range under all the conditions you state? Third, What is the gross weight your KR is licensed for? Will you be over your licensed gross weight and breaking the FAR's? I guess I'll add a fourth thing after thinking about it. Do you have the engine power to handle the weight if all other conditions are met? We American builders are given a pretty free hand when it comes to building and flying our homebuilt aircraft, probably more than many can handle. Some basic knowledge and a lot of common sense can go a long way in maintaining that freedom. Now, back to sanding and priming my stretched, 0-200 powered, all fuel in the wings, overweight pig of a KR!! :-) Larry Flesner flesner@midwest.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 07:16:34 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: gleone Subject: Re: KR> Gross weight KR2S Message-ID: <3E1981B2.AB4E0EB3@tritel.net> --------------327E110A927B11403A2C6808 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One more point: The wings will generate lift at a given speed. The heavier the aircraft, the more lift the wings need to generate. In a very heavy plane (like what you describe) you will need to go FASTER to generate enough lift to get the bird into the air. I believe your stall speeds will be higher, too, at those weights. The same holds true when crossing the threshold for landing; higher landing speeds. That's my two cents worth. Now I'll man the fire extinguisher. Gene in Worland. larry flesner wrote: > >Any one with a flying KR2S. Does anyone have wing tanks installed and able > to carry a passenger with full fuel, header tank and wing tanks full with 2 > 180lb people. > >Justin, KR2S > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > Three things to consider here: > > First, will the structure handle it? There are some pretty heavy > KR's out there flying just fine. This is not my way of saying > "yes" but something to think about. > > Second, will the C.G. stay in range under all the conditions > you state? > > Third, What is the gross weight your KR is licensed for? Will > you be over your licensed gross weight and breaking the FAR's? > > I guess I'll add a fourth thing after thinking about it. Do you > have the engine power to handle the weight if all other > conditions are met? > > We American builders are given a pretty free hand when it > comes to building and flying our homebuilt aircraft, probably > more than many can handle. Some basic knowledge and a > lot of common sense can go a long way in maintaining that > freedom. > > Now, back to sanding and priming my stretched, 0-200 powered, > all fuel in the wings, overweight pig of a KR!! :-) > > Larry Flesner > flesner@midwest.net > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files --------------327E110A927B11403A2C6808-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 17:04:59 +0200 To: From: "Serge Vidal" Subject: test Message-ID: <000501c2b594$fc7f65b0$e100a8c0@sergevidal12> [My mails keep bouncing] Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 17:08:21 +0200 To: From: "Serge Vidal" Subject: How to plug a hole in the tail floor? Message-ID: <000601c2b595$774f8590$e100a8c0@sergevidal12> I have a hole, diameter 60mm (that's sightly more than 2 inches) made on the tail floor. That hole was made for a strobe light, but I now have a different strobe design (watch this space for details) and I need to plug that hole. What is the best way, knowing that I am useless with composite? Could I close the hole somehow, level it, and pour some, say, Epoxy resin in it? Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 09:15:35 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: How to plug a hole in the tail floor? Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20030106091535.0090c540@mail.midwest.net> >I have a hole, diameter 60mm (that's sightly more than 2 inches) made on the >tail floor. That hole was made for a strobe light, but I now have a >different strobe design (watch this space for details) and I need to plug >that hole. What is the best way, knowing that I am useless with composite? >Could I close the hole somehow, level it, and pour some, say, Epoxy resin in >it? >Serge Vidal ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Serge, Sounds like you will need to do "touch-up" paint whatever method you chose. I'd take plywood similar to stock used to cover the fuselage and trace the hole on it. Place a plywood ring on the inside of the hole to attach this "circle" to and after the glue sets, fill and sand the small gap around the plug. As the aircraft has been flying with this cutout, a structural patch is probably not necessary. Your results may vary. :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 17:33:48 +0200 To: From: "Serge Vidal" Subject: RE: KR> How to plug a hole in the tail floor? Message-ID: <000701c2b599$05b75580$e100a8c0@sergevidal12> Larry, Don't wrry about the paint touch up, this is under the belly, so not highly visible. I'm not sure I understand your advice. Do you mean that I should make one plywood disk, fitting the inside of the hole, and one plywood ring, whose function is to hold the disk? And what "glue" should I use on the skin side? Serge -----Original Message----- From: larry flesner [mailto:flesner@midwest.net] Sent: 06 January 2003 17:16 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> How to plug a hole in the tail floor? >I have a hole, diameter 60mm (that's sightly more than 2 inches) made on the >tail floor. That hole was made for a strobe light, but I now have a >different strobe design (watch this space for details) and I need to plug >that hole. What is the best way, knowing that I am useless with composite? >Could I close the hole somehow, level it, and pour some, say, Epoxy resin in >it? >Serge Vidal ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Serge, Sounds like you will need to do "touch-up" paint whatever method you chose. I'd take plywood similar to stock used to cover the fuselage and trace the hole on it. Place a plywood ring on the inside of the hole to attach this "circle" to and after the glue sets, fill and sand the small gap around the plug. As the aircraft has been flying with this cutout, a structural patch is probably not necessary. Your results may vary. :-) Larry Flesner --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 10:37:08 -0500 To: "INTERNET:svidal@icon.co.za" From: "Jim V. Wickert" Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> How to plug a hole in the tail floor? Message-ID: <200301061037_MC3-1-22E1-9A8B@compuserve.com> Serge, If you have access to the hole from inside of the fuse. There is a foil tape that is made by the same company that makes Duct tape, if you can ge= t some of this, put over the hole on the outside of the fuse because it releases much better than duct tape. It is best to make up a temp tape cover or patch of the foil or duct tape on outside surface with the outsi= de of surface facing the opeing in the fuse and a reverse holding layer to maintain contact and hold the cover release surface over the opening. = Rough up the inside surface around the hole with 40-grit sand paper clean= with Asetone. Then mix up some epoxy and take a small BiD section of clo= th and wet it out over the hole from the inside of the fuse make sure it is= is worked in the contact surface of the fuse. I would take at least thre= e Bid layers. Let it set and then remove the tape patch cover. You can then fill in the exterior area and sand smooth and paint. Just like new!= ! Jim W = ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:02:55 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: RE: KR> How to plug a hole in the tail floor? Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20030106160255.00907350@mail.midwest.net> >I'm not sure I understand your advice. Do you mean that I should make one >plywood disk, fitting the inside of the hole, and one plywood ring, whose >function is to hold the disk? And what "glue" should I use on the skin side? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++=] Serge, My suggestion for the ring on the inside was to reduce the weight of the patch. We're only talking a few ounces here so you could just go with a larger diameter disk on the inside and then the disk to fill the hole in the skin. Having access to the hole on the inside would make the job easier but if not, make the "ring" , cut it in half, and install from the outside in two pieces. If the inside of the fuselage skin is sealed with anything other than epoxy, do a light sanding on the inside of the fuselage skin around the hole for better adhession of the glue. As this is only a patch and not a structural repair I'd suggest a 5 minute epoxy. You could even fill the small gap between the disk and the fuselage skin with the same epoxy. Think of it as patching the hole with the original 2 inch disk that was cut out to make the hole for the strobe. Again, I'm assuming this is a patch and not a structural repair as the aircraft has been flying with this hole with no problems. For a really fast fix, just cover the hole with tape and paint it to match. :-) You could place a disk on the inside that is larger than the hole and then fill the hole in the skin with filler of some type but it sounded like you really didn't want to get into that type of repair. My suggestion of the "ring" and disk or two disk should have the entire job finished in 30 minutes or less. The disk would be flush with the fuselage skin and thus no sanding required. Good luck. Any questions. Larry Flesner flesner@midwest.net P.S. I've gotten good at repairing my mistakes or redoing things I screwed up the first time! :-) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 19:25:11 +0200 To: "KR MAIL" From: "Eric Evezard" Subject: RAM AIR Message-ID: <000e01c2b5a8$ae9db720$cdce07c4@erick> ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2B5B9.54D94EA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Netters, There are only 2 types of ram air .One type works ,the other does not.!! = The former is designed by qualified engineers ,the latter are = "hatched"with dire consequences.No ram air system should take to the = air,without being cleared by a qualified engineer.In addition = responsible testing should take place where there is space to safely do = so.In some countries the authorities would "throw the book " at = transgressors,possibly revoking ,or suspending ,the pilots licence and = locking him up to boot. !!! MY two cents worth. Eric Evezard, South Africa. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2B5B9.54D94EA0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 13:12:54 -0600 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: Martin Hollman books Message-ID: This opened up a long-forgotten memory for me... I used to have Hollman's books but loaned them out and they are out there somewhere. If someone has a set that they forgot the source of, look to see if they have my name on them or have the initials "RTM", the name "R. Terry Malone", or "Terry Malone" on them anywhere. They are OK as far as they go, but now I think they have been eclipsed technologically. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 08:47:41 +1100 To: "KR Net Listings" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Dr Dean Hinges / Question Message-ID: <004e01c2b5cd$3f98d920$c096dccb@Matheson> ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01C2B629.709DCF60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Mark, or anyone Mark, on your site, Langford/dean _ hinge,=20 it shows the hinge and parts needed, which I must say seems a great = set-up, but I have a question, Whenever a REB is used in other parts of an aircraft, it must have a = lock nut to stop it coming loose.=20 As per the drawing, bolt H or AN3-11A that holds the female REB to the = H/S spar does not have a locking device.=20 What will stop it from coming loose? or rotating slightly? Or should it have a thread lock fluid on it? The site does not discuss this. The normal KR2 hinge which I do not like has two AN3 bolts with self = locking nuts to hold it and stop it rotating. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at:=20 http://www.vw-engines.com/ ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01C2B629.709DCF60-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:10:21 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Dr Dean Hinges / Question Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20030106161021.0090a7e0@mail.midwest.net> >Whenever a REB is used in other parts of an aircraft, it must have a lock nut to stop it coming loose. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Phil, That has always been and unspoken concern of mine also with the Dr. Dean type hinge. If one of the hinges rotates far enough it could lock up the entire control surface. If I had used them, my solution would have been a double lock nut floxed to the spar with generous quanities of flox. As I have no experience with them this is only theory on my part. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************