From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 8 Feb 2003 07:03:44 -0000 Issue 626 Date: Friday, February 07, 2003 11:04 PM krnet Digest 8 Feb 2003 07:03:44 -0000 Issue 626 Topics (messages 14983 through 15012): Re: Lights, Strobes and cheap shortcuts 14983 by: V. P. Fun N'Sun 14984 by: Sam Sayer Re: Web Page Update 14985 by: Flymaca711689.aol.com Re: am I a pilot? 14986 by: Ron Thomas Tips and tricks 14987 by: Justin LED nav lights 14988 by: Oscar Zuniga 14989 by: Mark Langford 14990 by: Bill Higdon Stay Current While Building 14991 by: Ronevogt.aol.com 14992 by: Frank Dungan 14997 by: Paul Gangemi 15012 by: Flymaca711689.aol.com Strobes & running lights 14993 by: norm-ruth 14994 by: Ron Thomas 14995 by: Bill Higdon Jeff York-others delete 14996 by: Dana Overall Re: LED nav lights- Instrument panel and cockpit 14998 by: ROBERT COOPER 14999 by: Frank Dungan 15003 by: David Mullins Re: sanding scarf joints. 15000 by: virgnvs.juno.com 15001 by: Rick Hubka 15002 by: Patrick Driscoll Re: Lights, Strobes and CLEVER shortcuts 15004 by: Ron Eason While Building, sand a lot 15005 by: Dan Heath INSURANCE 15006 by: Mark Jones 15010 by: Flymaca711689.aol.com 15011 by: Steve Glover Building and Flying 15007 by: John & Elaine Roffey fast or slow two-part foam 15008 by: DON WALKER 15009 by: Sutstoy.aol.com Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 19:33:56 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "V. P." Subject: RE: KR> Lights, Strobes and cheap shortcuts Message-id: Better yet.. make a male mold... get a high temp heat gun.. and you can drape the plastic over the mold while carefully heating it with the heat gun.. I have created a couple of different light 'lenses' this way.. Vince -----Original Message----- From: Sutstoy@aol.com [mailto:Sutstoy@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 7:18 PM To: KRnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Lights, Strobes and cheap shortcuts If you do use one of these cheap strobes get in touch with your local model plane club. One of them may have a "Vacuform". It's a vacuum molding machine. With the machine you can make the lens to cover the strobe. Aloha Joe :>}) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 21:36:58 -0500 To: "KR Mailing Lists" From: "Sam Sayer" Subject: Fun N'Sun Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2CE27.E0A2B080 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters: =20 In as much as there has been much discussion on plywood & eopxys, brings = to mind that in 1984 when I came to Florida, there was a fellow in Zephyr= hills that was building a KR. It was in the boat stage on wheels. It loo= ked like the sides & bottom were covered with 3mm birch plywood. As I wa= s looking at it, I could see that the laminations of the plywood were sep= arating. He said "I can't figure out what went wrong with the plywood as= I have glued the laminations back together 3 different times and they st= ill come apart." He also said "I don't waste any epoxy, the excess I wipe= on the side if the fuselage>" I saw a spot on the side where He put the = excess epoxy, it was the size of a pancake well over 1/2" thick. By the way (he was building in it in a small carport that was exposed to = the sun and rain. A year later he had it up for sale. I think it became a large bonfire. Sam Sayer Zephyrhills Fl. Karibird37@msn.comGet more from the Web. FREE = MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2CE27.E0A2B080-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 23:52:41 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Flymaca711689@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Web Page Update Message-ID: <3d.2b97d592.2b749599@aol.com> --part1_3d.2b97d592.2b749599_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit dan my clams are inferior to yours but i was press to fly IM going to try your method i just don't wont to re paint. lexan is what the rear window is clams are lexan allso thanks for looking all mac --part1_3d.2b97d592.2b749599_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 00:33:45 -0500 To: From: "Ron Thomas" Subject: Re: KR>am I a pilot? Message-ID: <002f01c2ce6a$7cd0a920$c843a8c0@faaguy> The ground effect might have help prevent driving the gear up through the wings, Mark. I flew a BE95 Travelair a number of hours and I don't think you can make a bad landing being the wing is so close to the ground. Supposedly could withstand 750 fpm rate of decent impact without damage. Never wanted to test it. Quite a change though after learning in a high wing. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Langford" To: Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 4:23 PM Subject: Re: KR>am I a pilot? > Dana wrote: > > > I'll have you know I sat in the rear seat of Doug Steen's Bonanza when we > > flew back from SNF. Mark was in the left seat and Doug was in the right. > > Keep in mind this is a throwover yoke airplane with CS speed prop and > > retracts. I will have to say, he's pretty good for an ol rusty pilot. > > Yep, that wasn't too bad, but Dana left off the part about me trying to run > it into the runway when landing. Fortunately Doug saved the day by leaning > over and pulling back on the yoke just before we would have hit and driven > the gear up through the wings! Doug dismissed it as me flying a "typical > Cessna non-flare" per my training, but I'm not so sure about that. > > Back to welding up my new dual stick design... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 22:01:29 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Justin Subject: Tips and tricks Message-ID: <3E432F99.308@socal.rr.com> They say to never sand a scarf joint because it makes for a weaker joint. I never sand mine but my question is about making gussets. I use a 5" sanding disk to shape them. Is there any better way? Justin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 07:50:46 -0600 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: LED nav lights Message-ID: Has anyone on the list experimented with LEDs for nav lights? All the new cars seem to have 'em instead of filament type bulbs, and the obvious advantages are extremely long life (maybe could even be sealed in rather than have to be accessible) and low power draw. And, since it's Friday, here's something from a Piet list member, regarding avoiding intermediate stops on x-c flights: >Remind me to tell you sometime of when I was 17 on a solo >cross country (after drinking a half-gallon of root beer >on a hot day while pre-flighting). In my infinite wisdom, I >decided to try and pee out the side window of a 172. > >The radios did work after they dried out...... Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 09:12:48 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> LED nav lights Message-ID: <019101c2cebb$60804360$0802a8c0@TD310> OZ wrote: > Has anyone on the list experimented with LEDs for nav lights? All the new > cars seem to have 'em instead of filament type bulbs, and the obvious > advantages are extremely long life (maybe could even be sealed in rather > than have to be accessible) and low power draw. I gave this a long hard look about three years ago. Ultra-bright LEDs look very attractive and have a low current draw, but the killer is that they are highly directional, something like 15 degrees. That works fine for cars (where the thing they are warning is directly behind, and at the same level) or traffic lights (they actually prefer directionality to keep the crossing lanes from knowing when the light's about to turn red), but it doesn't get it on an airplane. When you consider that you're supposed to have very wide angle visibility (I forget the exact number) for nav lights, you'd have to have something that looks like a porcupine or a tennis ball full of LEDs to get that job done, and now you're current draw is up to the level of a regular whelen bulb! Actually, my original intension was to imbed them along the wingtip in an arc, but that still doesn't address above and below the plane. I gave up on it, but it probably won't be long before wider angle versions are available. Maybe there are some out there already. If so, I'll give them another look. I actually bought and tested about 10 different ultra-bright LEDs, and have engineering data from them (these came from England, the brightest and widest at the time), but they just didn't measure up in my mind... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 07:58:20 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Bill Higdon Subject: Re: KR> LED nav lights Message-ID: <3E43D79C.90307@attbi.com> I haven't tried the LEDs; But I have seen some one take a leak out the side of a Huey, if you do it right no one gets wet. Bill Higdon Oscar Zuniga wrote: > Has anyone on the list experimented with LEDs for nav lights? All the > new cars seem to have 'em instead of filament type bulbs, and the > obvious advantages are extremely long life (maybe could even be sealed > in rather than have to be accessible) and low power draw. > > And, since it's Friday, here's something from a Piet list member, > regarding avoiding intermediate stops on x-c flights: > >> Remind me to tell you sometime of when I was 17 on a solo >> cross country (after drinking a half-gallon of root beer >> on a hot day while pre-flighting). In my infinite wisdom, I >> decided to try and pee out the side window of a 172. >> >> The radios did work after they dried out...... > > > Oscar Zuniga > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 11:36:30 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Ronevogt@aol.com Subject: Stay Current While Building Message-ID: <12e.226847f4.2b753a8e@aol.com> --part1_12e.226847f4.2b753a8e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yo, Netters: It was with great interest that I read Mark Langford's piece on his pilot qualifications and currency habits while building his KR. I would like to offer some information that might be useful to other builders/pilots concerning the issue of flying while building. I'm speaking from the other side of the coin: I am a professional pilot who has undertaken and completed a KR project. In my mind, currency equals safety. I think all pilots should stay current. Time away from flying detracts from safety. The issue of currency always...and I mean always...comes down to money. Therefore, I would like to offer this solution to the dilemma of "HOW TO FLY FOR FREE WHILE BUILDING YOUR KR!!!". 1. Search the country for the best deal you can find on a C-172. 2. Form a partnership with 3 or 4 other pilots and sell shares. If you bought right, you can recover your investment in short order. 3. As a matter of the contract, written by you, maintain control of the partnership. 4. One of the partners should be an A&P, another should be a CFI. 5. During the time you are involved in the airplane, earn your instrument, commercial and CFI. (It's easier than you might think) 6. When your KR is completed, sell your share for a profit and walk away with increased flying time, elevated safety level, advanced ratings, more money...and a smile on your face. I know that you are all asking, "Where did the initial money come from?" In my case, I used credit card checks. I had the shares sold in short order and had the credit cards paid off in short order. This may sound too good to be true, but I'm speaking from experience. And here's another fact for you: even with 4 partners, the airplane still sat on the ground 98% of the time. Responses invited. RV (CFI,AI,MEI, ATP...6,500 hours TT. Former military pilot, corporate pilot, ag pilot...and current freight pilot and Flight Instructor) --part1_12e.226847f4.2b753a8e_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 11:05:36 -0600 To: From: "Frank Dungan" Subject: Re: KR> Stay Current While Building Message-Id: I agree,=20 I just spoke with a man who has done this with a hanger full of very nice = planes.=20 But I believe there are some legal pitfalls to watch for.=20 Can you fill us in, or direct us where to go and find out how to cover our = tails? I would like to see how you wrote your contract, and how you outline = responsibilities.=20 Frank Dungan >>> Ronevogt@aol.com 02/07/03 10:36AM >>> Yo, Netters: It was with great interest that I read Mark Langford's piece on = his=20 pilot qualifications and currency habits while building his KR. I would = like=20 to offer some information that might be useful to other builders/pilots=20 concerning the issue of flying while building. I'm speaking from the = other=20 side of the coin: I am a professional pilot who has undertaken and = completed=20 a KR project. =20 In my mind, currency equals safety. I think all pilots should = stay=20 current. Time away from flying detracts from safety. The issue of = currency=20 always...and I mean always...comes down to money. Therefore, I would like = to=20 offer this solution to the dilemma of "HOW TO FLY FOR FREE WHILE = BUILDING=20 YOUR KR!!!". 1. Search the country for the best deal you can find on a C-172. 2. Form a partnership with 3 or 4 other pilots and sell = shares. =20 If you bought right, you can recover your investment in short order. 3. As a matter of the contract, written by you, maintain = control=20 of the partnership. =20 4. One of the partners should be an A&P, another should be = a=20 CFI. 5. During the time you are involved in the airplane, earn = your=20 instrument, commercial and CFI. (It's easier than you might think) 6. When your KR is completed, sell your share for a profit = and=20 walk away with increased flying time, elevated safety level, advanced=20 ratings, more money...and a smile on your face. I know that you are all asking, "Where did the initial money come = from?"=20 In my case, I used credit card checks. I had the shares sold in short = order=20 and had the credit cards paid off in short order. This may sound too good = to=20 be true, but I'm speaking from experience. And here's another fact for = you:=20 even with 4 partners, the airplane still sat on the ground 98% of the = time. Responses invited. RV (CFI,AI,MEI, ATP...6,500 hours TT. Former military pilot, corporate = pilot,=20 ag pilot...and current freight pilot and Flight Instructor) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 14:22:21 -0500 (EST) To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: paulwasp@webtv.net (Paul Gangemi) Subject: Re: KR> Stay Current While Building Message-ID: <909-3E44076D-49@storefull-2193.public.lawson.webtv.net> Hi, Frank; I for one, and I'm sure thee will be others, see no reason why you should be flamed for such sage advise. It's a very god idea right down to who should be sharing together! Very good! And keep the advice coming, I'm sure we would all appreciate it. Sincerely, P. Gangemi KR2s Erie, Pa EAA 160 PLG http://community.webtv.net/paulwasp/paulwaspspad ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 02:03:50 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Flymaca711689@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Stay Current While Building Message-ID: <1e8.1568c97.2b7605d6@aol.com> --part1_1e8.1568c97.2b7605d6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit the Germans jumped off cliffs for training due to the treaty after WW1 the Americans and others Britain used link trainers to build time in type if you use the simulator fs2002 or better it will help keep rust off fly the corsair it has a more real rate of sink use this great tool in front of you and its fun.real men from glider to fw 190 mac --part1_1e8.1568c97.2b7605d6_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 12:52:18 -0800 To: "krnet" From: "norm-ruth" Subject: Strobes & running lights Message-ID: <004a01c2ceea$ceecf4e0$4cc8d03f@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C2CEA7.BF832B20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In checking out 1157 lights on Ebay, I found several types; one was = LED Altezza Style and another was Xenon HID. Would someone clarify the = different types? Thanks. Norm norm-ruth@prodigy.net=20 I> OZ wrote: >=20 > > Has anyone on the list experimented with LEDs for nav lights? All = the new > > cars seem to have 'em instead of filament type bulbs, and the = obvious > > advantages are extremely long life (maybe could even be sealed in = rather > > than have to be accessible) and low power draw. ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C2CEA7.BF832B20-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 13:42:11 -0500 To: From: "Ron Thomas" Subject: Re: KR> Strobes & running lights Message-ID: <00e501c2ced8$a08abd60$c843a8c0@faaguy> Not sure about the answer to your ? but on the regular 1157 type bulbs (2157 version is much brighter) Most auto store have both. ----- Original Message ----- From: "norm-ruth" To: "krnet" Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 3:52 PM Subject: KR> Strobes & running lights In checking out 1157 lights on Ebay, I found several types; one was LED Altezza Style and another was Xenon HID. Would someone clarify the different types? Thanks. Norm norm-ruth@prodigy.net I> OZ wrote: > > > Has anyone on the list experimented with LEDs for nav lights? All the new > > cars seem to have 'em instead of filament type bulbs, and the obvious > > advantages are extremely long life (maybe could even be sealed in rather > > than have to be accessible) and low power draw. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 10:56:40 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Bill Higdon Subject: Re: KR> Strobes & running lights Message-ID: <3E440168.50302@attbi.com> Her's my 2 cents HID= High Intensity Discharge, these systems use a HV discharge lamp, like a flast tube except it's a continious arc. I'd stay away from them execpt maybe landing lights ath this time. Here is a FAQ on them http://www.brightheadlights-hid.com/hid_lights_faq.htm Bill Higdon Ron Thomas wrote: > Not sure about the answer to your ? but on the regular 1157 type bulbs (2157 > version is much brighter) > Most auto store have both. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "norm-ruth" > To: "krnet" > Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 3:52 PM > Subject: KR> Strobes & running lights > > > In checking out 1157 lights on Ebay, I found several types; one was LED > Altezza Style and another was Xenon HID. Would someone clarify the > different types? > > Thanks. Norm norm-ruth@prodigy.net > > > I> OZ wrote: > >>>Has anyone on the list experimented with LEDs for nav lights? All the >> > new > >>>cars seem to have 'em instead of filament type bulbs, and the obvious >>>advantages are extremely long life (maybe could even be sealed in rather >>>than have to be accessible) and low power draw. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 14:01:45 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Jeff York-others delete Message-ID: Jeff, could you email off the list. Dana Overall Richmond, KY http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 15:32:54 -0500 To: From: "ROBERT COOPER" Subject: Re: KR> LED nav lights- Instrument panel and cockpit Message-ID: Has anyone used LED lights for instrument and cockpit lighting? I never took a leak out the side of a Huey but many times under the tail boom. Speaking of the Huey, I saw a flight of 6 fly into Ft. Bragg over the weekend. I stood at attention and saluted. I loved that old bird. Jack Cooper mailto:kr2cooper@msn.com http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/kr2 Fayetteville, NC. > I haven't tried the LEDs; But I have seen some one take a leak out the > side of a Huey, if you do it right no one gets wet. > Bill Higdon > ----------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 15:36:32 -0600 To: From: "Frank Dungan" Subject: Re: KR> LED nav lights- Instrument panel and cockpit Message-Id: Several years ago I read a good article in Sport Aviation. The article detailed a one piece plate of Plexi-glass with beveled cutouts = for the instruments. The outside of the Plexi-glass was painted and the inside was router out = around the=20 instrument openings to hold wheat seed lights and wires, the Plexi-glass = then evenly directed the light=20 around the instruments. This always seemed like big improvement over the = post lights that I was=20 flying with in a 150 at the time. Bet the LED's would work well in place of the wheat seed bulbs.=20 fd >>> kr2cooper@msn.com 02/07/03 02:32PM >>> Has anyone used LED lights for instrument and cockpit lighting? I never took a leak out the side of a Huey but many times under the tail boom. Speaking of the Huey, I saw a flight of 6 fly into Ft. Bragg over = the weekend. I stood at attention and saluted. I loved that old bird. Jack Cooper mailto:kr2cooper@msn.com=20 http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/kr2=20 Fayetteville, NC. > I haven't tried the LEDs; But I have seen some one take a leak out the > side of a Huey, if you do it right no one gets wet. > Bill Higdon > ----------- --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org=20 For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org=20 See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp=20 or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 20:05:09 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: David Mullins Subject: Re: KR> LED nav lights- Instrument panel and cockpit Message-ID: <3E4457C5.73978C49@attbi.com> You can also try electro- luminescent tape in various widths and colors sandwiched between the aluminum panel and plexi. Paint the panel face and the plexi face with white paint first. Then paint the face of the plexi black or any other color you want. Cut out all your instrument holes after painting. The EL tape is .020" thick and will sandwich nicely between the panels. I intend to do this on my next project, but I am using the EL tape in my KR under the glare shield. Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire http://n323xl.iwarp.com Frank Dungan wrote: Several years ago I read a good article in Sport Aviation. The article detailed a one piece plate of Plexi-glass with beveled cutouts for the instruments. The outside of the Plexi-glass was painted and the inside was router out around the instrument openings to hold wheat seed lights and wires, the Plexi-glass then evenly directed the light around the instruments. This always seemed like big improvement over the post lights that I was flying with in a 150 at the time. Bet the LED's would work well in place of the wheat seed bulbs. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 16:25:06 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: KRnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> sanding scarf joints. Message-ID: <20030207.164535.-437889.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Vacuum the joint before gluing, Virg On Thu, 6 Feb 2003 12:09:11 -0500 "harold woods" writes: > I have read that type of literature. They say that the sanding closes > off the tubeules in the wood so the glue cannot enter. It is > necessary to scrape or shave off the top of the sanded surface > before adding the glue. That was back in the 1940 s there was no > epoxy there then. I suggest that a good sanded scarf with a good > epoxy glue makes an excellent scarf. > Harold Woods > Orillia, ON. > Canada. > > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.449 / Virus Database: 251 - Release Date: 1/27/03 Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 17:40:05 -0700 To: From: "Rick Hubka" Subject: RE: KR> sanding scarf joints. Message-ID: <000001c2cf0a$a34de950$6501a8c0@hubka22> I used clear/sticky packing tape Every single sanded joint small or large on my fusalage had a fresh strip of packing tape applied and then rubbed on. When I pull off the packing tape it was always covered in dust. It may not be perfect but I know it helped. It's kind of like applying wax to your legs to pull off the hair. But what would I know about that? :) Take Care and Happy building Rick Hubka rick@hubka.com http://www.hubka.com/kr_main.htm Calgary Alberta Canada -----Original Message----- From: harold woods [mailto:audreyandharoldwoods@rogers.com] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 10:09 AM To: KRnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> sanding scarf joints. I have read that type of literature. They say that the sanding closes off the tubeules in the wood so the glue cannot enter. It is necessary to scrape or shave off the top of the sanded surface before adding the glue. That was back in the 1940 s there was no epoxy there then. I suggest that a good sanded scarf with a good epoxy glue makes an excellent scarf. Harold Woods Orillia, ON. Canada. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.449 / Virus Database: 251 - Release Date: 1/27/03 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 18:43:56 -0600 To: From: "Patrick Driscoll" Subject: Re: KR> sanding scarf joints. Message-ID: <001201c2cf0b$2a0bc700$68db6843@oemcomputer> Enough on sanding scarf joints. Point is if you sand the joints and then glue them, you might as well let them sit in a dusty garage and then glue them. There will be sanding dust filling the scarf areas. If you vacuum them off with a good strong vacuum you can clean them up enough to make a fine glue joint with any type of glue. If you don't vacuum them it's like laying glue on a pile of dust and laying another pile of dust on top of it. Pat Driscoll Been there, done that. ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 19:53:23 -0600 To: , From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: KR> Lights, Strobes and CLEVER shortcuts Message-ID: <001a01c2cf14$dd70d4d0$6501a8c0@Administration> J.C. Whitney has a rated 12 VDC 1,000,000 cp strobe available for around $50.00. That would be very bright. They also have 12 VDC lights rated at 1,000,000 cp Landing light? KRRon > -----Original Message----- > From: AviationMech@aol.com [mailto:AviationMech@aol.com] > Sent: 06 February 2003 16:21 > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> Lights, Strobes and cheap shortcuts > > > . The financially inviting thought of a strobe light for 13 dollars is real > tempting. I urge you to consider this first. Knowing in most cases that we > are building Experimental day VFR craft, that don't require lights, why > bother to spend lots of bucks for an approved lighting system. Have you > ever > driven up on the back of bicycle that had the little flasher strobes on the > rear finder, and then had the thought that you were glad you didn't hit the > bike. Well on some of our "VFR" days, it can be so hazy that you can't > really see. What if your slick KR, cruising at 150KTS was heading for a > Piper Arrow doing 130 KTS, or a closing speed of 280 kts and all you have to > let that guy see you is a 13$ dim strobe from the Shack. I'll bet you'll > wish you had paid as little as $150 to get a real strobe with acceptable > candlepower in the flash. If you're going to put lights on the bird, get > real. > The KR is hard to see because it is little, and when it is seen, most > controllers and pilots think it is far away, because of its little size. > They always underestimate its speed. I say see and be seen. > > Aviationmech > KR-2 N110LR > 1984 to present > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 20:53:01 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Dan Heath" Subject: While Building, sand a lot Message-Id: <3E448D2D.00000A.00396@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_D84ZH890000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable And, if you are sanding, wear a good mask with the NIOSH filters or bette= r if you have them, with a dust filter on top. And.... if you don't want t= o be replacing those expensive filters a lot, keep your mask in a large bag= gie when not in use.=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Red Oak - 2003=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Date: Friday, February 07, 2003 08:37:14 AM=0D To: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: KR> Stay Current While Building=0D =0D Yo, Netters:=0D It was with great interest that I read Mark Langford's piece on his =0D pilot qualifications and currency habits while building his KR. I would l= ike =0D to offer some information that might be useful to other builders/pilots =0D concerning the issue of flying while building. I'm speaking from the othe= r =0D side of the coin: I am a professional pilot who has undertaken and comple= ted =0D a KR project. =0D In my mind, currency equals safety. I think all pilots should stay =0D current. Time away from flying detracts from safety. The issue of currenc= y =0D always...and I mean always...comes down to money. Therefore, I would like= to =0D offer this solution to the dilemma of "HOW TO FLY FOR FREE WHILE BUILDING= =0D YOUR KR!!!".=0D 1. Search the country for the best deal you can find on a C-172.=0D 2. Form a partnership with 3 or 4 other pilots and sell shares. =0D If you bought right, you can recover your investment in short order.=0D 3. As a matter of the contract, written by you, maintain control =0D of the partnership. =0D 4. One of the partners should be an A&P, another should be a =0D CFI.=0D 5. During the time you are involved in the airplane, earn your =0D instrument, commercial and CFI. (It's easier than you might think)=0D 6. When your KR is completed, sell your share for a profit and =0D walk away with increased flying time, elevated safety level, advanced =0D ratings, more money...and a smile on your face.=0D I know that you are all asking, "Where did the initial money come from?" = =0D In my case, I used credit card checks. I had the shares sold in short ord= er =0D and had the credit cards paid off in short order. This may sound too good= to =0D be true, but I'm speaking from experience. And here's another fact for yo= u: =0D even with 4 partners, the airplane still sat on the ground 98% of the tim= e.=0D =0D Responses invited.=0D =0D RV=0D (CFI,AI,MEI, ATP...6,500 hours TT. Former military pilot, corporate pilot= , =0D ag pilot...and current freight pilot and Flight Instructor) --------------Boundary-00=_D84ZH890000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 19:57:44 -0600 To: "KR-Net" , "CorVaircraft Net" From: "Mark Jones" Subject: INSURANCE Message-ID: <006701c2cf15$7c366e40$cc561f41@wi.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C2CEE3.2E09FDE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is hot off the press on the EAA On-Line Newsletter: =20 =20 EAA AIRCRAFT INSURANCE PLAN IMPROVES Most Auto Conversions, Non-Type Certificated Aircraft Engines Now = Covered=20 =20 =20 February 7, 2003 - Responding to the ever-diversifying needs of its = members, EAA announced a major enhancement to the EAA Aircraft Insurance = Plan this week. Effective immediately, aircraft powered by most auto = engine conversion packages and non-type certificated aircraft engines = are insurable under the plan.=20 Charlie Becker, Director of EAA Aviation Information Services = department, stated, "This change in the EAA Aircraft Insurance Plan will = cover EAA members who choose a non-traditional engine to power their = aircraft. EAAers have always been searching for lower cost, more = efficient powerplants since EAA was formed 50 years ago. Now, the vast = majority of these modern engine packages can be insured under the EAA = plan." The EAA Aircraft Insurance Plan was first introduced at EAA = AirVenture-Oshkosh 2002 and is administered by Falcon Insurance Agency, = and underwritten by Global Aerospace and other leading aviation = insurers.=20 For more information or to obtain a quote, call the EAA Insurance = Plan at 866-647-4322, or visit the EAA website for a fast, on-line = quote. =20 Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA=20 E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at =20 http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C2CEE3.2E09FDE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 01:40:58 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Flymaca711689@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> INSURANCE Message-ID: --part1_f4.28cdcfa9.2b76007a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kr insurance. My current premium is now $395 year I need to re join the eaa that way you save something like$20 and you get the cool magazine this is for the Washington, DC area what are you others guys paying? this is with avemco its more reasonable then for me to drive. mac n1055a --part1_f4.28cdcfa9.2b76007a_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 22:48:22 -0800 To: From: "Steve Glover" Subject: Re: KR> INSURANCE Message-ID: <001201c2cf3e$12921240$c18afea9@IntelliSpec> Yeah, but they sure are charging for it. For just basic liability for my KR-2 it is $500.00. Other KR fliers who have been around awhile are not paying as much with other companies. When I inquired with Falcon if the rate would go down once the first flights or 40 hours were completed, I was told that is the least expensive plan they offer and not to expect a reduction in rate. I am having the final inspection performed on my KR on Saturday. If all goes well, the first flight should be sometime this week.... Woo Hoo!!! Here's a link to a few pictures of it painted. http://home.earthlink.net/~n925sg/index.html Steve Glover Rancho Santa Margarita, Ca. n925sg@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR-Net" ; "CorVaircraft Net" Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 5:57 PM Subject: KR> INSURANCE This is hot off the press on the EAA On-Line Newsletter: EAA AIRCRAFT INSURANCE PLAN IMPROVES Most Auto Conversions, Non-Type Certificated Aircraft Engines Now Covered February 7, 2003 - Responding to the ever-diversifying needs of its members, EAA announced a major enhancement to the EAA Aircraft Insurance Plan this week. Effective immediately, aircraft powered by most auto engine conversion packages and non-type certificated aircraft engines are insurable under the plan. Charlie Becker, Director of EAA Aviation Information Services department, stated, "This change in the EAA Aircraft Insurance Plan will cover EAA members who choose a non-traditional engine to power their aircraft. EAAers have always been searching for lower cost, more efficient powerplants since EAA was formed 50 years ago. Now, the vast majority of these modern engine packages can be insured under the EAA plan." The EAA Aircraft Insurance Plan was first introduced at EAA AirVenture-Oshkosh 2002 and is administered by Falcon Insurance Agency, and underwritten by Global Aerospace and other leading aviation insurers. For more information or to obtain a quote, call the EAA Insurance Plan at 866-647-4322, or visit the EAA website for a fast, on-line quote. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 23:07:57 -0500 To: "KR Mailing Lists" From: "John & Elaine Roffey" Subject: Building and Flying Message-ID: <008701c2cf27$aa633de0$c69e9840@default> ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C2CEFD.C0778020 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Mark makes a very good case for his intention to "build, then fly" = scenario. Others have done just that and have proven it to be the = incentive to keep going on their projects. Many of us are on the other limb of the same tree. Having been in a = partnership owning a Piper Arrow for five years, I feel qualified to = comment on both joint ownership and the need to keep up hard won flying = skills while building. My partnership was indeed a rewarding experience inasmuch as I had very = good partners and we had a solid timeshare and expense plan. I soon = learned that to make good use of a plane here in Michigan, during any = season, an instrument rating was necessary to be safe. I got mine in the = Arrow and keep it current to this day. I am renting airplanes again here in Michigan and in Arizona and I spend = allot of time in the 182RG that I fly to the Gatherings. Renting the same plane, for me is more justifiable financially than even = a third interest partnership would be. The crux of the issue here is = that every dollar spent on the rental is a flying dollar as opposed to = the fixed costs involved in ownership. E.G. hangar rent, insurance ( = although I do buy the Avemco renters policy for $225 each year) annuals, = registration and fuel. Many aviation magazine articles are written on the "break even" hours it = takes to justify "owning" Vs "renting".=20 The acceptable number is usually around 100 hours annually. I have had my private for 25 years now and have just under 1000 hours of = PIC time. That's averaging 37 hours a year over my flying career. I only = flew 100 hrs. one year, and flew the Arrow 360 hrs. in five years. I loved having the Arrow and having two partners to fly with, but as = time went on, the money took the fun out of it. One partner flew the = plane 70 hrs, in five years and wanted out. The two of us remaining had = no intention of supporting it by ourselves, so we sold it. Yes, we made money on the plane from purchase to sale, but the cheapest = annual we had was $1300, and we kept it IFR certified at considerable = expense. =20 All this leads to my building the KR and renting to fly and stay current = and safe. I have found novel ways to defray the expenses, and I admit that I run = all my booze money, all bowling money, all my golfing money all my gambling money out the tail pipe of the 182, but I still find a = couple of bucks for my project now and then. One such way is to fly Young Eagles in a rented 172. The rent is a tax = deduction.=20 By the way, if you got this months Sport Aviation and the "10 for 2002" = inclusion, that's me and my grandson Brady on page five. John Roffey Chapter 979 Young Eagle Coordinator KR2S builder ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01C2CEFD.C0778020-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2003 22:53:35 -0700 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: DON WALKER Subject: fast or slow two-part foam Message-id: <66e4f62f24.62f2466e4f@icomcast.net> This doesnt exactly pertain to KR's---but- In making a carbon dash piece for a racecar today I used a slow acting two part foam, which I hadnt used before and gave less than favaorable results. Has anyone used the slow and fast acting two part foams and/or have a technique for getting good results?- the problems I noted were: -Inconsistent density -As the foam continued to expand it pulled away from the original item I was molding from, its action was so slow it was still foamimg long after the initial foam had taken its set sanded ok, and the large cells(I at least had experienced this before) were filled using filler and epoxy/milled glass. Any one wan tto share information and/or technique? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 01:21:07 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Sutstoy@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> fast or slow two-part foam Message-ID: <79.95171a2.2b75fbd3@aol.com> --part1_79.95171a2.2b75fbd3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have used the 2 part foam you can get at model shops without any problem. Don't know if it's "fast or slow". I do know that it should be at or above room temp. and mixed VERY well. Like putting another layer of glass on , it helps to roughen the surface you are putting it on. Aloha Joe :>}) --part1_79.95171a2.2b75fbd3_boundary-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************