From: To: Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 58, Issue 1 Date: Friday, June 06, 2003 12:01 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Smooth Prime (long) (Peg and Mike Meyer) 2. Re: Smooth Prime (long) (Brian Kraut) 3. Re: Smooth Prime (long) (Ron Eason) 4. Smooth prime - and filling in general (Dan Heath) 5. Re: New Job: Moving Again! (Kenneth L Wiltrout) 6. kr-contact builder 7. Re: KR2SPort 8. Re: FYI 9. Offsubject, yet relevant (Mark Youkey) 10. seeking builders (Russ Fenlason) 11. Smooth Prime (larry flesner) 12. Re: Smooth Prime (gleone) 13. Re: Smooth Prime (Russ & Brenda) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 14:19:55 -0500 From: "Peg and Mike Meyer" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>Smooth Prime (long) Message-ID: <008e01c32b97$72c86e60$94b3fea9@o0c8u6> References: <1d1.b0e5200.2c100456@aol.com> <3.0.6.32.20030605094522.00793860@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 1 If you want to extend the useful life of a patch of cross-linked smooth prime, put it in the refrigerator when you're done. I've been able to maintain workable smooth prime for many, many hours after I've cross-linked it. I've got to be honest, I'm not all that nuts about smooth prime. You wind up waiting a long time to get a few coats of this stuff on and it's difficult to see the imperfections that really need the attention. Martin-Senour, PPG, and a variety of other manufacturers offer dry sandable primer-surfacer that flashes in about 10 minutes. You can lay as many coats as you'd like in about an hour with a HVLP gun. The products I've been looking at are used on Corvettes, so it can't be all bad (UV protection and all that). Beside which, it's one hell of a lot cheaper. I'm going to talk to my local PPG guy before I make the switch. If it's a suitable match, I'll never use overpriced, overblown smooth prime again. Mike Meyer ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry flesner" To: "KR builders and pilots" Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 9:45 AM Subject: KR>Smooth Prime (long) > > > I've just opened my third gallon of Smooth Prime and I'm getting > close to finished on priming my KR. I'll share a few observations > on what I've experienced so far. > > - Read the ( manufactures) directions carefully so you know > what you're doing. > > - A propeller shaped paint mixer on a 1/4 drill motor does a > good job of mixing and it is not necessary to locate a paint > shaker as suggested in the directions. If the primer has set > for some time you will want to use a stir stick to loosen the > solids that have compacted on the bottom of the can when > you mix the primer. > > - The first three coats require adding "cross-linker". I used > a quart fruit jar for mixing. It has to be used in eight hours > so don't mix more than you intend to roll on in that amount > of time. > > - Some light sanding after two or three coats will help get a > smooth finish a bit more quickly and with less effort. The > first coats will have a very rough finish because of the high > solids content of the primer. 240 or 320 grit paper works > well for that. > > - No matter how careful you are you will have "pimples" and > flecks of solids in the finish. These come from primer that > has dried in your paint dish and around the rim of the can and > then find there way into the primer. They will easily sand off > but a better method is to use a small scraper with the single > edge razor blade. Carefully run the scraper across the surface > at a shallow angle and they cut right off. If you sand them off > you will sand off primer around the spot that you will have to > replace. > > - Another flaw you will get is "ridges" in the primer that come from > the end of the roller that you fail to see and don't get rolled out. > Use your razor scraper to remove these also but draw the blade > down the length of the ridge in a near vertical motion. It will only > take off the ridge and not the surrounding primer. > > - The directions say you can either spray or roll on the last three > coats. When spraying it says to add some water to thin the > primer. This also works when rolling and will help to give a > smoother finish. I used a pint jar and added a bit of water at a > time until I got the mix I wanted. > > - I found I could use the primer with a 6" rubber squeegee and > very light pressure to fill minor defects. It dries very quickly and > is ready to sand in a very short time. I added some "micro" to > the primer and used the squeegee to fill slightly larger defects > with good results. > > - When I started I used a plastic spout to pour primer from the > can into my mixing jars. The problem is you can never get all > the primer off the spout and the bottom edge of the can rim. > This will cause you to later get a lot of dried flecks of primer > that find their way onto the finish. When I started my last > gallon I switched to using small disposable cups to dip the primer > from the can. I use my roller to clean out the "dipping" cup and > then toss the cup into the trash, starting with a clean cup on the > next draw. > > - For safety reasons you should wear a mask while sanding. I hate > the mask because my glasses don't fit well and keep "fogging" > as I breath. My solution is to sand in an open area and use two > window fans mounted in a stand. I Keep the fans close to my > work and always keep my head in the direct blast of air and > "up wind" of the area I'm sanding. USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT > HERE. > > - Last but not least, the discouraging news. When you think you > are nearly finished, look again. You will most likely find you are > only about half done! > > As always, do your own testing. YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY. > > I hope to be painting in the next 30 days and my painter has > convinced me to use a DuPont paint that sells for $38 a gallon. > I've seen his "work truck" that he painted 8 years ago in his > driveway in Florida and the paint seems to have held up well. > The color selection is limited but the color white available seems > to be what I'm looking for. I intend to use vynal for my trim strips. > More info on that later. > > Happy building....... > > Larry Flesner > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 12:53:45 -0400 (EDT) From: Brian Kraut To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>Smooth Prime (long) Message-ID: <6878131.1054842433954.JavaMail.nobody@dewey.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 2 I have just been using a roller. I didn't sand at all between coats. My biggest problem was always that I would get small pin holes in the primer and I had to sand through most of it to get to the bottom of the pin holes. I finally concluded that the pin holes were from the small bubbles that you get in the primer. I found that just before the last coat you can sand very quickly with 150 paper just to break the tops of the bubbles. Then do the last coat a little watered down. The primer flows into the pin holes and fills them up pretty good. If you don't sand at all you never break the tops of the bubbles and the pin holes never get filled. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 13:05:49 -0700 From: "Ron Eason" To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>Smooth Prime (long) Message-ID: <200306051305.AA63373344@jrl-engineering.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 3 Yes, their are better alternatives. I am using one I think. It's Dupont Etchant prime which is a medium build [weight] primer for all types of material [metal, fiber, SS, Alum and etc.]. It required a spray application but no more than 2 or 3 coats depending on you finish. I believe Dupont developed it for the aircraft and auto industries. Ron ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Peg and Mike Meyer" Reply-To: KR builders and pilots Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 14:19:55 -0500 >If you want to extend the useful life of a patch of cross-linked smooth >prime, put it in the refrigerator when you're done. I've been able to >maintain workable smooth prime for many, many hours after I've cross-linked >it. > >I've got to be honest, I'm not all that nuts about smooth prime. You wind up >waiting a long time to get a few coats of this stuff on and it's difficult >to see the imperfections that really need the attention. Martin-Senour, PPG, >and a variety of other manufacturers offer dry sandable primer-surfacer that >flashes in about 10 minutes. You can lay as many coats as you'd like in >about an hour with a HVLP gun. The products I've been looking at are used on >Corvettes, so it can't be all bad (UV protection and all that). Beside >which, it's one hell of a lot cheaper. I'm going to talk to my local PPG guy >before I make the switch. If it's a suitable match, I'll never use >overpriced, overblown smooth prime again. > >Mike Meyer > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "larry flesner" >To: "KR builders and pilots" >Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 9:45 AM >Subject: KR>Smooth Prime (long) > > >> >> >> I've just opened my third gallon of Smooth Prime and I'm getting >> close to finished on priming my KR. I'll share a few observations >> on what I've experienced so far. >> >> - Read the ( manufactures) directions carefully so you know >> what you're doing. >> >> - A propeller shaped paint mixer on a 1/4 drill motor does a >> good job of mixing and it is not necessary to locate a paint >> shaker as suggested in the directions. If the primer has set >> for some time you will want to use a stir stick to loosen the >> solids that have compacted on the bottom of the can when >> you mix the primer. >> >> - The first three coats require adding "cross-linker". I used >> a quart fruit jar for mixing. It has to be used in eight hours >> so don't mix more than you intend to roll on in that amount >> of time. >> >> - Some light sanding after two or three coats will help get a >> smooth finish a bit more quickly and with less effort. The >> first coats will have a very rough finish because of the high >> solids content of the primer. 240 or 320 grit paper works >> well for that. >> >> - No matter how careful you are you will have "pimples" and >> flecks of solids in the finish. These come from primer that >> has dried in your paint dish and around the rim of the can and >> then find there way into the primer. They will easily sand off >> but a better method is to use a small scraper with the single >> edge razor blade. Carefully run the scraper across the surface >> at a shallow angle and they cut right off. If you sand them off >> you will sand off primer around the spot that you will have to >> replace. >> >> - Another flaw you will get is "ridges" in the primer that come from >> the end of the roller that you fail to see and don't get rolled out. >> Use your razor scraper to remove these also but draw the blade >> down the length of the ridge in a near vertical motion. It will only >> take off the ridge and not the surrounding primer. >> >> - The directions say you can either spray or roll on the last three >> coats. When spraying it says to add some water to thin the >> primer. This also works when rolling and will help to give a >> smoother finish. I used a pint jar and added a bit of water at a >> time until I got the mix I wanted. >> >> - I found I could use the primer with a 6" rubber squeegee and >> very light pressure to fill minor defects. It dries very quickly and >> is ready to sand in a very short time. I added some "micro" to >> the primer and used the squeegee to fill slightly larger defects >> with good results. >> >> - When I started I used a plastic spout to pour primer from the >> can into my mixing jars. The problem is you can never get all >> the primer off the spout and the bottom edge of the can rim. >> This will cause you to later get a lot of dried flecks of primer >> that find their way onto the finish. When I started my last >> gallon I switched to using small disposable cups to dip the primer >> from the can. I use my roller to clean out the "dipping" cup and >> then toss the cup into the trash, starting with a clean cup on the >> next draw. >> >> - For safety reasons you should wear a mask while sanding. I hate >> the mask because my glasses don't fit well and keep "fogging" >> as I breath. My solution is to sand in an open area and use two >> window fans mounted in a stand. I Keep the fans close to my >> work and always keep my head in the direct blast of air and >> "up wind" of the area I'm sanding. USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT >> HERE. >> >> - Last but not least, the discouraging news. When you think you >> are nearly finished, look again. You will most likely find you are >> only about half done! >> >> As always, do your own testing. YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY. >> >> I hope to be painting in the next 30 days and my painter has >> convinced me to use a DuPont paint that sells for $38 a gallon. >> I've seen his "work truck" that he painted 8 years ago in his >> driveway in Florida and the paint seems to have held up well. >> The color selection is limited but the color white available seems >> to be what I'm looking for. I intend to use vynal for my trim strips. >> More info on that later. >> >> Happy building....... >> >> Larry Flesner >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > >_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > -- Ronald R. Eason Sr. Pres. & CEO, KCMO Office J.R.L. Engineering Consortium Ltd. 816-468-4091, Kansas City, MO. Jim Eason V.P, 770-446-1291, Atlanta, Georgia Web Page: www.jrl-engineering.com -- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 16:46:41 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: Subject: KR>Smooth prime - and filling in general Message-ID: <3EDFD660.000001.01568@dan> References: Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 4 Smooth Prime is not a "filler", however, because you roll it on, you can press it into the pin holes that just get covered up with a spray. I usually water mine down a little as that let's it go on a little "smooth"= er. One time, I just went around to different places that needed it and kept going until I had 3 coats on all the parts I wanted to cover. I found t= hat if you don't water it down a little, it leaves little mountains like cavernous orange peel.=0D =0D I like it because it is a roll on and can be pressed in, I don't like it because it is a roll on and leaves roller marks.=0D =0D After I finish with my coats of Smooth Prime, I use PPG medium fill prime= r.=20 They have a no fill, a medium fill and a heavy fill, which would be more like feather fill. The PPG product is in-expensive and fills very well. = =0D =0D PPG also has paint products that are very economical. Dupont Centari wou= ld have cost me $130 per gallon. PPG costs $47 per gallon and takes a harde= ner =0D =0D Do not try to fill "low" places with either of these, use something like Super Fill, cause that is what it is made for.=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Red Oak - 2003=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From jfaughn@mvp.net Thu Jun 05 15:45:20 2003 Received: from mo1.socket.net ([216.106.88.132]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 19O3U0-000IXh-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Thu, 05 Jun 2003 15:45:20 -0700 Received: from mvp.net (virtualmail.socket.net [216.106.88.58]) by mo1.socket.net (Postfix) with ESMTP id 09B7923B924 for ; Thu, 5 Jun 2003 17:43:10 -0500 (CDT) Received: from marzi ([216.106.71.66]) by mvp.net ; Thu, 05 Jun 2003 17:43:06 -0500 From: "Jim Faughn" To: "'KR builders and pilots'" Subject: RE: KR>New Job: Moving Again! Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 17:46:12 -0500 Message-ID: <004f01c32bb4$496e9f40$42476ad8@jfaughn> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.2627 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: <20030605183533.93085.qmail@web40809.mail.yahoo.com> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KR builders and pilots List-Id: KR builders and pilots List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: I'll look forward to your arrival and the ride. Jim Jim Faughn 4323D Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 63108 (314)652-7659 Mailto:jfaughn@mvp.net Web Site http://jfaughn.com -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces+jfaughn=mvp.net@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+jfaughn=mvp.net@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Scott Cable Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 1:36 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>New Job: Moving Again! Netters: Wonderful news! My old boss at a major aerospace company in St. Louis, MO. called last Wednesday and made me an offer that I just couldn't refuse! I resigned my position at a major Tier 1 Automotive Seat and Interiors supplier and start on June 16th as a Design Engineer, most likely on the F/A-18 E&F Program. As many of you may recall, we had just moved to Linden, MI., which caused a slip in schedule of about 6 months ( at least!). So further delays are expected, as I have to concentrate on moving (again)! The good news is that I'll get a chance to meet Jim Faughn, and maybe get a ride in his KR.! I'm looking forward to working in aerospace again, and continuing building of "Flying in a Blue Dream" KR-2S Thanks for all of your advice and encouragement over the last year. Scott Cable KR-2S # 735 Linden, MI s2cable1@yahoo.com --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM)._______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 19:30:20 -0400 From: Kenneth L Wiltrout To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>New Job: Moving Again! Message-ID: <20030605.193021.2468.2.klw1953@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 5 Hi Jim, I saw you and your bird at Oshkosh last year. I'm wondering what the KR weighs, you weigh, and how heavy a passenger you've flown with to date. I weigh in at 230, the S at 646 and I've flown a 130lb person as well as flight tested w/160lbs of sand bags in the right seat. I can say that w/the 160lbs of sand my bird was a bit of a handful. Your thoughts? On Thu, 5 Jun 2003 17:46:12 -0500 "Jim Faughn" writes: > I'll look forward to your arrival and the ride. > > Jim > Jim Faughn > 4323D Laclede Ave. > St. Louis, MO 63108 > (314)652-7659 > Mailto:jfaughn@mvp.net > Web Site http://jfaughn.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: krnet-bounces+jfaughn=mvp.net@mylist.net > [mailto:krnet-bounces+jfaughn=mvp.net@mylist.net] On Behalf Of > Scott > Cable > Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 1:36 PM > To: krnet@mylist.net > Subject: KR>New Job: Moving Again! > > > Netters: > Wonderful news! My old boss at a major aerospace company in St. > Louis, > MO. called last Wednesday and made me an offer that I just couldn't > refuse! I resigned my position at a major Tier 1 Automotive Seat > and > Interiors supplier and start on June 16th as a Design Engineer, > most > likely on the F/A-18 E&F Program. > As many of you may recall, we had just moved to Linden, MI., > which > caused a slip in schedule of about 6 months ( at least!). So > further > delays are expected, as I have to concentrate on moving (again)! > The > good news is that I'll get a chance to meet Jim Faughn, and maybe > get a > ride in his KR.! > I'm looking forward to working in aerospace again, and continuing > building of "Flying in a Blue Dream" KR-2S > Thanks for all of your advice and encouragement over the last year. > > > > Scott Cable > KR-2S # 735 > Linden, MI > s2cable1@yahoo.com > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Free online calendar with sync to > Outlook(TM)._______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 19:33:05 EDT From: MilFritz@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>kr-contact builder Message-ID: <5a.1d69143e.2c112d31@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 6 I am located near Wilkes Barre,Pa. I am building a kr-2 , It is about 85% finished. I would like to contact someone within a reasonable drive to talk to and maybe visit for mutual exchange of facts and ideas. Thank You F.J.Hady www.MilFritz@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 21:50:45 -0400 From: virgnvs@juno.com To: krnet@mylist.net Cc: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>KR2SPort Message-ID: <20030605.222354.-588721.0.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 7 The KR-1b had longer wings. Separate to plans and can be ordered from RR, Virg On Wed, 4 Jun 2003 06:31:13 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) "Dan Heath" writes: > Rand was doing something with a motor glider at one time. Maybe > there is > some information about it, that would apply to what you want to > do. > > Remember, when reading those specs, that they are for the weight as > specified. > > If you could come up with a KR2SPort, you would really have > something that I > think would be very popular. > > N64KR > > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > > DanRH@KR-Builder.org > > See you in Red Oak - 2003 > > See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury Amsoil www.lubedealer.com/salisbury ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 22:17:54 -0400 From: virgnvs@juno.com To: krnet@mylist.net Cc: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>FYI Message-ID: <20030605.222354.-588721.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 8 That staple puller is something else, Virg On Wed, 4 Jun 2003 23:04:02 -0400 "ROBERT COOPER" writes: > I went to Harbor Freight a few days ago to get some large diamoter > drill > bitts. I also bought a 9.6 Volt cordless drill with a keyless chuck > for $10. > That night I was working on break pedals. I was drilling with one > drill, > countersinking with another and using another for a screwdriver. I > am > somewhat of a tool junkie. > Jack Cooper > mailto:kr2cooper@msn.com > http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/kr2 > Fayetteville, NC. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 10:26 PM > Subject: Re: KR>FYI > > > > Mark, > > I know the feeling! I live within driving distance of the Harbor > Freight > main > > in Camarillo, CA and the truck has returned ladened with much more > than > I'd > > gone stalking.! > > Not a tool junkie, really, do USE the things...eventually. > > Stephen > > _______________________________________________ > > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury Amsoil www.lubedealer.com/salisbury ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 00:10:05 -0500 From: "Mark Youkey" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: KR>Offsubject, yet relevant Message-ID: <001601c32be9$e4b24ad0$1f790c44@blah> References: <20030605.222354.-588721.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 9 I just ran across this website that has an incredible number of resources for travel, news, etc. It's tailored to the Air Froce lifestyle, but seems very useful for others also. http://www.squadronexec.com/ If you click on Web Directories, then Lodging on the page that comes up, there is a huge list of discount booking sites for hotels. Hope you enjoy and find it useful. Mark Youkey myoukey@cox.net Okalhoma City ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 06:48:29 -0500 From: "Russ Fenlason" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: KR>seeking builders Message-ID: <002b01c32c21$8c72e9f0$0400a8c0@D2M43L01> References: <002101c327fd$bc938720$7c92ad8e@ab.hsia.telus.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 10 I am planning a trip from Fargo, ND to Dallas, TX the third week of June. Would be interested in stopping to see a few KR's. if they weren't too far off the track. If anyone would be available please contact me at asiruss@702com.net Thanks Russ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 07:27:01 -0500 From: larry flesner To: KR builders and pilots Subject: KR>Smooth Prime Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20030606072701.007acce0@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <008e01c32b97$72c86e60$94b3fea9@o0c8u6> References: <1d1.b0e5200.2c100456@aol.com> <3.0.6.32.20030605094522.00793860@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 11 >I've got to be honest, I'm not all that nuts about smooth prime. You wind up >waiting a long time to get a few coats of this stuff on and it's difficult >to see the imperfections that really need the attention. + = ======snip=================, I'll never use >overpriced, overblown smooth prime again. >Mike Meyer ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Everything has it tradeoffs, it's plus and minus I guess. I thought the Smooth Prime dried rather quickly. When doing the bottom of my fuselage I could start at one end and roll on primer to the other end. When I was finished I could start at the beginning again. I laid the first three coats on that way non-stop. As to filling pinholes I thought it worked great. I use round end disposable rollers and when I see a pinhole I just rotate the roll 90 degrees, rub the pinhole full of primer, and continue priming. Yes, the stuff is expensive but I'm not intending to paint my KR so I didn't have to buy a HVLP unit ($250) build a paint booth ($100) Take 20 minutes to set up, 20 minutes to clean up, by gun cleaner ($?), buy a fresh air system or a really good mask ($50 -$150) . I can start priming with five minutes of prep, prime for five minutes or two hours, and when finished through the $1.50 roll in the trash. Roller pans are $1 each, the roller handle $5 to $7. You could put this stuff on in your kitchen if you are the least bit careful. I'm probably more picky than I need to be with my prime, sand, fill, prime, sand routine. If I were to follow direction and roll on three coats, sand lightly, roll on another three, sand and paint, I'd have been done by now. My problem is I'm new at this and I'm never sure when good is good enough. As to finding defects, I think that is mostly a matter of lighting, how much and what angle. Bottom line, It has worked well for me. Your results may vary ! Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 09:18:22 -0600 (Mountain Standard Time) From: "gleone" To: Subject: Re: KR>Smooth Prime Message-ID: <3EE0B0BE.00000A.02724@DDMWDD11> References: <3.0.6.32.20030606072701.007acce0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: Multipart/related; type="multipart/alternative"; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_MUF2H890000000000000" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 12 --------------Boundary-00=_MUF2H890000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D I'm not anywhere near this stage of construction yet, but the time elemen= t may be temperature related (assuming you're talking about drying time). = =0D =0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KR builders and pilots=0D Date: Friday, June 06, 2003 6:30:35 AM=0D To: KR builders and pilots=0D Subject: KR>Smooth Prime=0D =0D >I've got to be honest, I'm not all that nuts about smooth prime. You win= d up=0D >waiting a long time to get a few coats of this stuff on and it's difficu= lt=0D >to see the imperfections that really need the attention.=0D + =3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dsnip=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D,=0D I'll never use=0D >overpriced, overblown smooth prime again.=0D >Mike Meyer=0D =0D ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++=0D =0D Everything has it tradeoffs, it's plus and minus I guess.=0D =0D I thought the Smooth Prime dried rather quickly. When doing the=0D bottom of my fuselage I could start at one end and roll on primer=0D to the other end. When I was finished I could start at the=0D beginning again. I laid the first three coats on that way non-stop.=0D =0D As to filling pinholes I thought it worked great. I use round end=0D disposable rollers and when I see a pinhole I just rotate the roll=0D 90 degrees, rub the pinhole full of primer, and continue priming.=0D =0D Yes, the stuff is expensive but I'm not intending to paint my KR=0D so I didn't have to buy a HVLP unit ($250) build a paint booth=0D ($100) Take 20 minutes to set up, 20 minutes to clean up, by=0D gun cleaner ($?), buy a fresh air system or a really good mask=0D ($50 -$150) . I can start priming with five minutes of prep, prime=0D for five minutes or two hours, and when finished through the=0D $1.50 roll in the trash. Roller pans are $1 each, the roller handle=0D $5 to $7. You could put this stuff on in your kitchen if you are=0D the least bit careful.=0D =0D I'm probably more picky than I need to be with my prime, sand,=0D fill, prime, sand routine. If I were to follow direction and roll on=0D three coats, sand lightly, roll on another three, sand and paint,=0D I'd have been done by now. My problem is I'm new at this and=0D I'm never sure when good is good enough. As to finding=0D defects, I think that is mostly a matter of lighting, how much=0D and what angle.=0D =0D Bottom line, It has worked well for me. Your results may vary !=0D =0D Larry Flesner=0D =0D =0D =0D =0D =0D _______________________________________________=0D see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html=0D =0D =2E --------------Boundary-00=_MUF2H890000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 11:41:27 -0500 From: "Russ & Brenda" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>Smooth Prime Message-ID: <001001c32c4a$7a105a80$2321fea9@audiovideo> References: <1d1.b0e5200.2c100456@aol.com> <3.0.6.32.20030605094522.00793860@pop.midwest.net> <3.0.6.32.20030606072701.007acce0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 13 Hey guys I'm new here. Does anyone have specs and performance figures for the KR2S with the Corvair engine? Does anyone have one for sale? How hard is it to modify and existing KR for a corvair? Thanks, Russ. ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry flesner" To: "KR builders and pilots" Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 7:27 AM Subject: KR>Smooth Prime > >I've got to be honest, I'm not all that nuts about smooth prime. You wind up > >waiting a long time to get a few coats of this stuff on and it's difficult > >to see the imperfections that really need the attention. > + = ======snip=================, > I'll never use > >overpriced, overblown smooth prime again. > >Mike Meyer > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > Everything has it tradeoffs, it's plus and minus I guess. > > I thought the Smooth Prime dried rather quickly. When doing the > bottom of my fuselage I could start at one end and roll on primer > to the other end. When I was finished I could start at the > beginning again. I laid the first three coats on that way non-stop. > > As to filling pinholes I thought it worked great. I use round end > disposable rollers and when I see a pinhole I just rotate the roll > 90 degrees, rub the pinhole full of primer, and continue priming. > > Yes, the stuff is expensive but I'm not intending to paint my KR > so I didn't have to buy a HVLP unit ($250) build a paint booth > ($100) Take 20 minutes to set up, 20 minutes to clean up, by > gun cleaner ($?), buy a fresh air system or a really good mask > ($50 -$150) . I can start priming with five minutes of prep, prime > for five minutes or two hours, and when finished through the > $1.50 roll in the trash. Roller pans are $1 each, the roller handle > $5 to $7. You could put this stuff on in your kitchen if you are > the least bit careful. > > I'm probably more picky than I need to be with my prime, sand, > fill, prime, sand routine. If I were to follow direction and roll on > three coats, sand lightly, roll on another three, sand and paint, > I'd have been done by now. My problem is I'm new at this and > I'm never sure when good is good enough. As to finding > defects, I think that is mostly a matter of lighting, how much > and what angle. > > Bottom line, It has worked well for me. Your results may vary ! > > Larry Flesner > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 58, Issue 1 ************************************