From: To: Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 101, Issue 1 Date: Saturday, July 19, 2003 12:02 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Look Ma.......no clecos!! (Dana Overall) 2. New KR web site (Brian Kraut) 3. CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS (Max Hardberger) 4. Re: CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS (Brian Kraut) 5. Re: CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS (Max Hardberger) 6. Re: CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS (Mark Langford) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:37:11 -0400 From: "Dana Overall" To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Look Ma.......no clecos!! Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 1 As you can tell from my subject lines, I am having a ball building/assembling this airplane. This pic looks like a step back from last week but lo and behold.....no clecos. http://rvflying.tripod.com/fri1.jpg The bulkheads are all primed along with the J channel stringers. The floor comes with a J stringer bent into it on both sides. You can't see it here but the aft section is bolted in for the tailwheel. You actually build these airplanes twice. The first time you cleco everything together and final drill all the holes. On these skins the prepunched holes are .002 undersize so you drill/ream them out to a #40. Then it all comes back apart where every hole gets deburred and dimpled. The dimple dies I use on substructure, such as the bulkheads is about .002 deeper than the skin dimple die. This allows the skin dimples to sit down a little more giving a nice flush head on the outside. As you can see, the prepunched stuff is jigless. I built this aft fuselage on two shopmate work benches. The forward bulkhead of the aft fuselage is not rivet on yet as the center section side skin gets riveted on there overlapping the aft side skin. Here is the center section all together awaiting final drilling and deburring over this weekend. The square bulkhead is the seatback bulkhead with the baggage compartment floor behind it. The back of the baggage compartment floor rivets to the forward bulkhead of the aft fuselage. You can see the seatbelt brackets sticking up through the floor. http://rvflying.tripod.com/fri2.jpg I just riveted two of these together so I could work on something other than the fuselage one evening. He used such basic alum. parts to make things. No rocket science here. On the bottom you will see a hinge with the center eye ground out. This is where you install split pins as once you would not be able to get a full length pin in with the side on. Three half hindges go on the bottom for and aft so you can "adjust" the seat position. http://rvflying.tripod.com/fri3.jpg As a means to show how simple things are put together to make something work, here is how the seat incline in adjusted. More straight up just put the seat back "thing" in the forward slot, more reclined put it in the back slot. These is accomplised with nothing more than an alum. angle on the back of the seatback bulkhead with a piece of bent .032 and a shim. KISS at it's best. http://rvflying.tripod.com/fri4.jpg Lookin forward to Beer & Brats at Oshkosh!! Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY RV-7 slider/fuselage Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:26:37 -0400 From: Brian Kraut To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>New KR web site Message-ID: <3F18660D.8080409@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 2 I have finally gotten around to working on my KR web site. It is at www.engalt.com/kr2.htm . Nothing there but pictures now. I will get around to adding some descriptions and more pictures after I am finished with my business web site. There are some good pictures of my rack and pinion mixture control system under the fuel system tab and pictures of my Walnut laminated aluminum instrument panel under the instruments tab. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 08:44:24 -0500 From: "Max Hardberger" To: Subject: KR>CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS Message-ID: <005801c34dfb$de53a6a0$0100a8c0@toshibauser> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 3 I have had difficulty finding a KR-2 with long-range tanks. Does anyone = have experience with retro-fitting wing tanks to an existing aircraft? Best regards Max Hardberger captmax@maritimeatty.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 12:45:09 -0400 From: Brian Kraut To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS Message-ID: <3F197595.5040703@earthlink.net> References: <005801c34dfb$de53a6a0$0100a8c0@toshibauser> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 4 I added wing tanks when I converted from retract to fixed gear. In a very condensed form this is what I did: turned plane upside down cuto out rectangle in wing about 6" from fusalage side to about 18" outboard between front and rear spar glued 1" wide foam rib sections to cap off ends glued 3/4" foam blocks around perimiter with the tops all flat and even about 3/4" from outside skin surface carved out some of the excess foam inside on the top skin surface so I had about 1/2" thickness glassed a piece of 1" foam board about 20" square with three plies, put bagging film on it for a good smooth flat surface cut glassed foam board so it would fit exactly inside the rectangle cut in the wing and rest on the 3/4" foam on the sides glassed inside of new tank area with three plies and 2" extra strips in the corners, glassed over the 3/4" side pieces also covered glassed foam top board with bagging film and put it in tank resting on glassed 3/4" foam supports put weights on perimiter of board to hold it down and make sure that the shape of the dried area on the shelf would exactly match the surface of the board dirlled hole in inboard area of tank and floxed in fuel line installed filler (see below) sanded surface of board and shelf area, cut board 1/8" all the way around sit it was smaller than the hole in the wing cut foam back on board 1/4" all the way around leaving glass extending glued in board and filled in 1/4" trough around it with 1/4" of epoxy for a good seal sanded board to wing shape, filled in remaining trough area and glassed bottom For the fuel filler I used the plastic one that Great Plains sells. It is for boats and has about a 5" plastic disc with a 5" long 2" diamater barbed plastic hose connection molded in. I cut the hole in the wing right through the glass in the new tank and the top surface of the wing with a hole saw. I also cut the 5" hole in just the top surface of the wing. The filler was epoxied in so the top surface of the filler was about 1/16" below the surface of the top of the wing. I floxed it on the inside to be sure it didn't leak and when the plane was turned right side up I filled in some more epoxy that flowed under the 5" diameter to be extra sure there were no more leaks. I cut a block of foam to fit inside the filler cap hole and glassed over the top then cut out the filler cap opening. For the filler cap I laid three plies of glass on a piece of bagging film and stuck the cap on the top. The glass was trimmed when it dried. I wraped a layer of electrical tape around the filler cap and screwed it in before the filling and sanding so it would not get stuck in. I have a fuel pump and a selector switch to select which tank I am transfering from into the main tank. I didn't put fuel gauges in for the wing tanks because I will never let the main tank get under 1/2 before I start to transfer fuel. Let me know if you need me to clarify anything. I guess you could do something similar on the top without turning the plane over but it would be a lot harder. I had to turn it over for the gear anyway. Max Hardberger wrote: >I have had difficulty finding a KR-2 with long-range tanks. Does anyone have experience with retro-fitting wing tanks to an existing aircraft? > >Best regards > >Max Hardberger >captmax@maritimeatty.com >_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 11:18:50 -0500 From: "Max Hardberger" To: , "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS Message-ID: <006a01c34e11$711618f0$0100a8c0@toshibauser> References: <005801c34dfb$de53a6a0$0100a8c0@toshibauser> <3F197595.5040703@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 5 Thanks, Brian. You have given me hope. What was your total fuel capacity when finished (header plus wing tanks)? Max ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 13:12:25 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>CONVERTING KR-2 TO WING TANKS Message-ID: <01cb01c34e21$4f25a3e0$1202a8c0@basement> References: <005801c34dfb$de53a6a0$0100a8c0@toshibauser><3F197595.5040703@earthlink.net> <006a01c34e11$711618f0$0100a8c0@toshibauser> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 6 > What was your total fuel capacity > when finished (header plus wing tanks)? I realize you didn't ask me this question, but as a general rule, but if you have about a half inch of foam all the way around, each inch of stub wing will yield slightly less than half a gallon, so if you have two tanks, and they are 20" long each, you'll end up with about 19 gallons of capacity. But keep in mind that you're supposed to install the filler so that 5-10 percent of the tank can't be filled, to provide expansion space so when the fuel gets warm it won't run out on the tarmac. So that means you'll have maybe 17 to 18 gallons if your tanks are 20" long. There's a drawing near the top of http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/misc.html that shows the outline and how this is calculated. There's also a bunch of excruciating detail on building composite wing tanks, including the filler that Brian mentioned, at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/swings.html . Whatever you do, keep in mind that there's no such thing as "excess epoxy" when it comes to finishing the inside of the tanks. Running wire, and doing little stuff here and there that will hopefully someday yield a flying aircraft... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 101, Issue 1 *************************************