From: krnet-bounces+johnbou=speakeasy.net@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 12:00 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 190, Issue 1 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Piano hinge for Cowl (Jim Morehead) 2. Re: Piano hinge for Cowl (Mark Langford) 3. Re: Piano hinge for Cowl (Mark Jones) 4. Re: Piano hinge for Cowl (Dan Heath) 5. Re: Piano hinge for Cowl (KRJerry) 6. molds 7. cowling connection (Colin) 8. Re: molds (Mark Langford) 9. Re: OK Corvair dreamers check ebay (Ray Fuenzalida) 10. Re: molds (Jim Morehead) 11. Re: molds (Steven Eberhart) 12. Re: paint---was molds (Mark Langford) 13. Re: paint (larry flesner) 14. Re: paint (larry flesner) 15. Re: Piano hinge for Cowl (Scott Cable) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:01:22 -0700 From: Jim Morehead To: Subject: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 1 Netters, I=B9m planning on attaching my cowl using piano hinges. My question is, how to attach the piano hinge to the firewall. I thought about using T-88 to glue it to the Stainless steel firewall but the SS is not attached that well around the edge. What have others done, use wood screws? If so what size screw and how far apart. Thanks, Jim Morehead Cameron Park, CA kr2jm@d-web.com My Revmaster cowl didn=B9t have room for the oil cooler below the engine. I glued foam on the bottom of the cowl then used it to used it to pull a female mold off of it. Then laid up a newly shaped cowl out of the new mold. Looks great. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 19:48:01 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Message-ID: <010701c3937f$26fd73e0$1202a8c0@basement> References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 2 Jim Moorehead wrote: > Iım planning on attaching my cowl using piano hinges. My question > is, how to attach the piano hinge to the firewall. I thought about > using T-88 to glue it to the Stainless steel firewall but the SS is > not attached that well around the edge. What have others done, use > wood screws? If so what size screw and how far apart. I used 3/4" long #4 wood screws from Wicks, about 2" apart, if that helps at all. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 20:00:25 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Message-ID: <003d01c39380$e60833a0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <010701c3937f$26fd73e0$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 3 > I used 3/4" long #4 wood screws from Wicks, about 2" apart, if that > helps at > all.> > Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL I am also ready to attach my piano hinge to the firewall for the cowl. Just curious...how would pop rivets hold up. I would think 1/8" x 1/2" pop rivets every inch would be a good option too. Any thoughts? Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:36:28 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Message-ID: <3F8DF61C.00000E.02428@Computer> References: <010701c3937f$26fd73e0$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 4 We are not using a piano hinge, but we used 3/4 in wood screws about 4 inches apart to attach the angle that the cowl is attached to. I drilled= a starter hole before putting the screws into the firewall. I would not us= e pop rivets. I do not think that T88 will hold up with the vibration, glu= ing metal to metal.=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From krjerry@bellsouth.net Wed Oct 15 18:40:35 2003 Received: from imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.65]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1A9x7u-000J28-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 18:40:30 -0700 Received: from oldmerlin ([66.20.155.227]) by imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.05.27 201-253-122-126-127-20021220) with SMTP id <20031016014420.KXPL1795.imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net@oldmerlin> for ; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:44:20 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-Id: <3F8DF7F2.000006.03660@oldmerlin> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:44:18 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) X-Mailer: IncrediMail 2001 (2001138.2001138) From: "KRJerry" References: <3F8DF61C.00000E.02428@Computer> X-FID: FLAVOR00-NONE-0000-0000-000000000000 X-FVER: X-CNT: ; X-Priority: 3 To: Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1b3 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KR builders and pilots List-Id: KR builders and pilots List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: .....I just now got back on the 'net. What are we trying to pop rivet..= =2E. ?? If it is metal to wood....NO. Metal to metal is a whole diffrent iss= ue. I am currently building a TeenieII with steel pop rivets; and there are lots of them flying around with 'em as well as Sonex and Zenairs and othe= rs.=0D =0D KRJerry=0D Jerry Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D e-mail: KRJerry@bellsouth.net=0D Website: http://KR-Builder.org =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KR builders and pilots=0D Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 21:37:01=0D To: krnet@mylist.net=0D Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl=0D =0D We are not using a piano hinge, but we used 3/4 in wood screws about 4=0D inches apart to attach the angle that the cowl is attached to. I drilled = a=0D starter hole before putting the screws into the firewall. I would not use= =0D pop rivets. I do not think that T88 will hold up with the vibration, glui= ng=0D metal to metal.=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D _______________________________________________=0D see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html=0D =2EFrom krjerry@bellsouth.net Wed Oct 15 18:43:16 2003 Received: from imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.65]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1A9xAZ-000J8m-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 18:43:15 -0700 Received: from oldmerlin ([66.20.155.227]) by imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.05.27 201-253-122-126-127-20021220) with SMTP id <20031016014705.KYTE1795.imf17aec.mail.bellsouth.net@oldmerlin> for ; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:47:05 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-Id: <3F8DF8A2.000001.02556@oldmerlin> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:47:14 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) X-Mailer: IncrediMail 2001 (2001138.2001138) From: "KRJerry" References: <3F8DF61C.00000E.02428@Computer> X-FID: FLAVOR00-NONE-0000-0000-000000000000 X-FVER: X-CNT: ; X-Priority: 3 To: Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1b3 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KR builders and pilots List-Id: KR builders and pilots List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: =2E........have just rejoined the net. I did not see the original post o= n rivets; but there are lots of planes flying around with pop rivets holdin= g them together......Teenie2, Zenair, Sonex; just to name a few. But if yo= u are talking about pop riveting metal to wood....FORGET IT....!!! =0D =0D KRJerry=0D Jerry Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D e-mail: KRJerry@bellsouth.net=0D Website: http://KR-Builder.org =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KR builders and pilots=0D Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 21:37:01=0D To: krnet@mylist.net=0D Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl=0D =0D We are not using a piano hinge, but we used 3/4 in wood screws about 4=0D inches apart to attach the angle that the cowl is attached to. I drilled = a=0D starter hole before putting the screws into the firewall. I would not use= =0D pop rivets. I do not think that T88 will hold up with the vibration, glui= ng=0D metal to metal.=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D _______________________________________________=0D see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html=0D =2EFrom flykr2s@wi.rr.com Wed Oct 15 19:21:04 2003 Received: from ms-smtp-02.rdc-kc.rr.com ([24.94.166.122]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1A9xlA-000Jn8-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 19:21:04 -0700 Received: from mark (CPE-65-31-89-55.wi.rr.com [65.31.89.55]) by ms-smtp-02.rdc-kc.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id h9G2OnhN026701 for ; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:24:52 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: <004d01c3938c$d0a3b500$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR builders and pilots" References: <3F8DF61C.00000E.02428@Computer> <3F8DF8A2.000001.02556@oldmerlin> Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:25:49 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KR builders and pilots List-Id: KR builders and pilots List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: My thoughts were piano hinge on top of stainless steel firewall on top of plywood. The pop rivet would go through the piano hinge, through the SS firewall then into the plywood firewall. If this is an incorrect way, I will use #4 x 3/4" wood screws. Thoughts..... Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "KRJerry" . But if you are talking about pop riveting metal to wood....FORGET IT....!!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 22:32:26 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) From: "KRJerry" To: , Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Message-ID: <3F8E033A.000001.01128@oldmerlin> References: <004d01c3938c$d0a3b500$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 5 Mark,=0D =0D The pop rivets would hold the steel and hinge together quite well, but I would not count on them holding the assembly to the wooden bulkhead. My vote is for the SCREWs......!!!=0D =0D Keep on keepng on, =0D =0D KRJerry=0D Jerry Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D e-mail: KRJerry@bellsouth.net=0D Website: http://KR-Builder.org =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KR builders and pilots=0D Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 22:25:24=0D To: KR builders and pilots=0D Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl=0D =0D My thoughts were piano hinge on top of stainless steel firewall on top of= =0D plywood. The pop rivet would go through the piano hinge, through the SS=0D firewall then into the plywood firewall. If this is an incorrect way, I w= ill=0D use #4 x 3/4" wood screws. Thoughts.....=0D =0D Mark Jones (N886MJ)=0D Wales, WI USA=0D E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com=0D Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at=0D http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html=0D =0D =0D ----- Original Message -----=0D From: "KRJerry" =0D =2E. But if you=0D are talking about pop riveting metal to wood....FORGET IT....!!!=0D =0D =0D =0D =0D _______________________________________________=0D see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html=0D =2EFrom flykr2s@wi.rr.com Wed Oct 15 19:32:55 2003 Received: from ms-smtp-02.rdc-kc.rr.com ([24.94.166.122]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1A9xwd-000K6v-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 19:32:55 -0700 Received: from mark (CPE-65-31-89-55.wi.rr.com [65.31.89.55]) by ms-smtp-02.rdc-kc.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id h9G2afhN006235 for ; Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:36:43 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: <005f01c3938e$78b9fdc0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR builders and pilots" References: <004d01c3938c$d0a3b500$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> <3F8E033A.000001.01128@oldmerlin> Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:37:41 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KR builders and pilots List-Id: KR builders and pilots List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Screws it shall be!!! Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "KRJerry" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 9:32 PM Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Mark, The pop rivets would hold the steel and hinge together quite well, but I would not count on them holding the assembly to the wooden bulkhead. My vote is for the SCREWs......!!! Keep on keepng on, KRJerry Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC e-mail: KRJerry@bellsouth.net Website: http://KR-Builder.org -------Original Message------- From: KR builders and pilots Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 22:25:24 To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl My thoughts were piano hinge on top of stainless steel firewall on top of plywood. The pop rivet would go through the piano hinge, through the SS firewall then into the plywood firewall. If this is an incorrect way, I will use #4 x 3/4" wood screws. Thoughts..... Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "KRJerry" .. But if you are talking about pop riveting metal to wood....FORGET IT....!!! _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ._______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:10:53 -0400 From: To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>molds Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 6 I have a question on building molds. My experience with mold makeing for fiberglass is that the mold (if made of fiberglass) needs to be at least twice as thick as the piece you are going to make. So, the heat from the part wont warp the mold. 1. What type of material is being used to pull molds? 2. If making of glass how thick and are you using a spray on release agent? Molds I have made before have been from. Glass, Sheetrock mud, plaster of paris, paper machae, clay, even concrete. I just want to know what KR people are doing. Steven Phillabaum Auburn, Alabama ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:31:52 -0400 From: "Colin" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: KR>cowling connection Message-ID: <005e01c393e1$7aa208f0$05462141@Beverly> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 7 My cowling is held together and to the plane/fuselage with zuse = fasteners. If anyone would like to see pictures, I will take some and = post them through Dan. Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td) crainey1@cfl.rr.com Sanford, Florida FLY SAFE!!!!From newtech@newtech.com Thu Oct 16 06:09:43 2003 Received: from 63-69-213-180.res.evv.cable.sigecom.net ([63.69.213.180] helo=cherry.newtech.com) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1)id 1AA7ss-0006U8-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Thu, 16 Oct 2003 06:09:42 -0700 Received: from newtech.com (cherry.newtech.com [192.168.1.10]) by cherry.newtech.com (8.11.6+Sun/8.11.6) with ESMTP id h9GDCXt21340 for ; Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:12:34 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: <3F8E9940.7010805@newtech.com> Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:12:32 -0500 From: Steven Eberhart User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; U; SunOS sun4u; en-US; rv:1.0.1) Gecko/20020920 Netscape/7.0 X-Accept-Language: en-us, en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>molds References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KR builders and pilots List-Id: KR builders and pilots List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Here is a quick run down of how I make most of my molds. 1. Start with a good finish on the plug you are going to make the mold from. 2. put a minimum of three coats of good old Johnson's paste way. Apply each wax coat in a different direction and use old flannel bed sheets to buff out. 3. Spray on one or two coats of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) 4. All of my molds are epoxy/glass and I use West Systems epoxy with the fast hardener. 5. Mix up the epoxy for what will be the mold surface. I start out with a batch of West systems and add red pigment and about 10% by volume of Cabosil. The pigment makes a nice uniform color mold surface and the Cabosil thickens the epoxy somewhat and makes it stick to vertical surfaces easier and also hardens the surface somewhat. 6. brush on your red jell coat and make it a fairly heavy coat. Let cure before continuing. 7. Scuff the jell coat with a scotchbrite pad so the following layers will make a good bond to it. 8. All of the fiberglass used in my molds is fiberglass matte. I don't use any woven cloth. Doesn't matter where you put it in the lay-up if there is any woven cloth in the mold it will eventually "print through" and show show up in the surface of the mold. 9. I tear the fiberglass matte into manageable squares and carefully pull it apart so that each piece is half of its original thickness. Any cut edges have a tendency to show up as fine lines in the final mold surface. I know epoxy isn't supposed to shrink but "print through" is a problem. That is why I always work with torn edges and very thin sections split from the original matte. 10. Buy a box of 1" throw away chip brushes at Harbor Freight Aircraft Supply and start applying the torn sections of matte and saturate with epoxy using the chip brushes stippling out the air bubbles. It is fairly easy to see the air bubbles against the red gel coat. Tear the pieces as necessary to fit around sharp corners, etc. Keep applying matte until you get at lease about an 1/8" lay-up over the complete surface. I generally don't go much thicker that 1/8" to 3/16". 11. I generally trim the excess matte from the mold when the glass has reached the leather stage. Leave the mold alone until it has cured at least twice as long as you think it needs to be completely cured. 12. To pop the mold from the plug start with some wooden wedges and work them between the mold and the plug. Compressed air does a great job of helping to separate the mold from the plug. If you waxed the plug well, and have a good coat of PVA, you should be able to pop off a beautiful mold. 13. After you have your mold separated wash it down well with dish washing detergent. If the phase of the moon was correct you should have a mold ready to lay up parts in. If not, sand the mold surface finishing up with 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper and polish out with rubbing compound finishing up with white polishing compound. 14. Wax the he** out of the mold using the same Johnson's paste wax. When you think you are done waxing think about how you are going to feel if you ruin it by sticking a part in it and put on some more wax. 15. Be sure to spray a coat of PVA on your waxed mold before you do your lay-ups. Remember a green mold is a lot easier to stick a part in than a well used one that has been waxed many times. Wax and PVA are your friend here. THis is just to give you an idea of how I make my molds. THere is no substitute for experience. Dive in and try it on a smaller part and don't be afraid to experiment. Some things will work and some won't but you will be learning. Steve Eberhart skphil@charter.net wrote: > I have a question on building molds. > My experience with mold makeing for fiberglass is that the mold (if > made > of fiberglass) needs to be at least twice as thick as the piece you are > going to make. So, the heat from the part wont warp the mold. > > 1. What type of material is being used to pull molds? > 2. If making of glass how thick and are you using a spray on release > agent? Molds I have made before have been from. Glass, Sheetrock mud, > plaster of paris, paper machae, clay, even concrete. I just want to > know what KR people are doing. > > Steven Phillabaum > Auburn, Alabama > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 09:42:23 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>molds Message-ID: <020701c393f3$b8960000$5e0ca58c@tbe.com> References: <3F8E9940.7010805@newtech.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 8 Excellent post by Steve! Two things I would add is that a yardstick that's tapered to look like a builder's shim works great for getting cowling molds separated, and since PVA is water soluable, standing the cowling up on end and pouring water into the partially separated part/mold will dissolve the PVA and make part separation a lot easier. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML at hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 07:09:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Ray Fuenzalida To: James R Freeman , KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>OK Corvair dreamers check ebay Message-ID: <20031016140928.73639.qmail@web42004.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <002d01c392e8$952da390$0100a8c0@Desktop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 9 Have just started looking into engine possibilities. Haven't decided yet whether I will use the VW, corvair or something else. Ebay has a Franklin engine out right now. That might be an option, but it might be a little too heavy. What does a finished VW and/or Corvair weigh? Working on a single seat KR2S. Ray James R Freeman wrote: ----- Original Message ----- From: "D DuRosset" To: Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 12:31 AM Subject: KR>OK Corvair dreamers check ebay > Was surfing Ebay and found this Corvair listing: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item > =2437537540 > m=2437537540> > m=2437537540> > > Darryl DuRossette > KR1 at MO1 > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product searchFrom bgdfix@vvm.com Thu Oct 16 08:52:15 2003 Received: from ns2.vvm.com ([66.196.0.9]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AAAQB-0009hH-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:52:15 -0700 Received: (from nobody@localhost) by ns2.vvm.com (8.12.4/8.12.4) id h9GFoHtn026142; Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:50:17 -0500 Received: from 66.196.7.98 (SquirrelMail authenticated user bgdfix) by www.vvm.com with HTTP; Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:50:17 -0500 (CDT) Message-ID: <1193.66.196.7.98.1066319417.squirrel@www.vvm.com> Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:50:17 -0500 (CDT) From: To: X-Priority: 3 Importance: Normal X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: SquirrelMail (version 1.2.7) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Subject: KR>Hi Fellow KR netters X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KR builders and pilots List-Id: KR builders and pilots List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: First off, I would like to say Hi to everybody! Two month ago I bought a KR that was not taken care of by the second owner but was built real well. I have enjoyed the CIVIL tone of this conference!! My KR2 was built by Richard Lind in Calafornia. N8575C Has 375 hours on it and I just orders the parts for a complete top overhaul. I hope to be flying in a month or two and plan to make the 2004 KR FlyIn! Right now I have no real questions as this is my 3rd acft. I just wanted to say Hi to all Thanks Again Brian G. Douglas N8575C KR2 (td) Killeen Texas ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 09:01:13 -0700 From: Jim Morehead To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>molds Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <020701c393f3$b8960000$5e0ca58c@tbe.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 10 What also works to get a cowling mold apart is a "slim jim" sold at auto parts stores to unlock your car door when your key is inside. Jim Morehead Cameron Park, CA on 10/16/03 7:42 AM, Mark Langford at n56ml@hiwaay.net wrote: > Excellent post by Steve! Two things I would add is that a yardstick > that's tapered to look like a builder's shim works great for getting > cowling molds separated, and since PVA is water soluable, standing the > cowling up on end and pouring water into the partially separated > part/mold will dissolve the PVA and make part separation a lot easier. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL > N56ML at hiwaay.net > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:04:45 -0500 From: Steven Eberhart To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>molds Message-ID: <3F8ECFAD.2020007@newtech.com> References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 11 That is one of the neat things about working with composites. There are so many different ways to do something and it is very difficult to screw something up so badly that it can't be repaired. If the Slim Jim is plastic then it sounds like another arrow to put in the quiver. After hundreds of hours working on getting a new plug ready, I don't think I would come anywhere near it with anything metal. I have actually had very good results with using about 80 pounds of air pressure and one of the standard air blowing nozzles. Once you get the least bit of a separation with the wooden wedges directing the compressed air into the space can in many instances pop the part out for you. I made up a mold for a radio control model of the full size RV-7 I am building and air pressure alone pops out molded fuselage sides from the mold. Another secret, buy some two part epoxy primer at your local rip-off auto paint supply store and spray a coat of epoxy primer in your waxed and PVA coated mold before you lay up the part. Let it cure and gently scuff it with a scotchbrite pad and then lay up your part. When it comes out of the mold it is already primed and MANY of the pin holes are eliminated. Vacuum bag it and your part will be virtually pin hole free, primed and ready to use. For the more adventurous, spray in the finish paint, let it cure then the primer and finish as above. R/C model builders have been doing it this way for years. I can't stress rip off paint store loud enough. I am currently painting a friend's RV-8 with PPG Concept. Over $300 a gallon when you add in the hardener. Paint and primer for this plane is going to be over $1,000. Soap box mode off now :-) Steve Eberhart Morehead wrote: > What also works to get a cowling mold apart is a "slim jim" sold at > auto parts stores to unlock your car door when your key is inside. > > Jim Morehead > Cameron Park, CA > > on 10/16/03 7:42 AM, Mark Langford at n56ml@hiwaay.net wrote: > > >>Excellent post by Steve! Two things I would add is that a yardstick >>that's tapered to look like a builder's shim works great for getting >>cowling molds separated, and since PVA is water soluable, standing the >>cowling up on end and pouring water into the partially separated >>part/mold will dissolve the PVA and make part separation a lot easier. >> >>Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL >>N56ML at hiwaay.net >>see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford >> >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:25:08 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KR builders and pilots" Subject: Re: KR>paint---was molds Message-ID: <003a01c3940a$784b9930$5e0ca58c@tbe.com> References: <3F8ECFAD.2020007@newtech.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12 Steve Eberhart wrote: > I can't stress rip off paint store loud enough. I am currently > painting a friend's RV-8 with PPG Concept. Over $300 a gallon when > you add in the hardener. Paint and primer for this plane is going to > be over $1,000. I'm using DuPont's "cheap" stuff, Nason. It's equivalent to PPG's cheap stuff, Omni. If you walk in and ask for basecoat/clearcoat, they'll sell you the expensive stuff. But I'm told by the paint store guys that REAL painters only use that stuff for repairs, where color matching is critical. For an overall repaint (that's us), the cheap stuff is almost every bit as good. The big difference is color matching and coverage is not quite as good, but I don't have much to cover anyway, since it's all just the same color primer. By inexpensive, I'm talking 1/3 or 1/4 the price of the good stuff. More on this later, but there are a couple of pictures at the bottom of http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/bodywork/index.html , taken just as the flames were making the bottom of my plane red, Tornado Red, that is. More on this later as work permits... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML at hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:44:59 -0500 From: larry flesner To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>paint Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031016124459.007f9100@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <003a01c3940a$784b9930$5e0ca58c@tbe.com> References: <3F8ECFAD.2020007@newtech.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 13 WHEEW DOGGY, IS THAT THING RED !!!!!! And I was thinking I might have a chance to win some metal at a KR Gathering. Damn..................:-) Lookin good. I should be getting mine inspected the last week of the month. Had inspection scheduled and it got cancelled. Hey, while I'm thinking about it , is the antenna coax 50 or 75 ohm, (58 or 59 or will the new RG6 work?) Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:46:57 -0500 From: larry flesner To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>paint Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031016124657.007fda10@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <003a01c3940a$784b9930$5e0ca58c@tbe.com> References: <3F8ECFAD.2020007@newtech.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 14 Sorry netters, that last reply should have gone to Mark Langford only. I just hit reply without thinking. Old age maybe? Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:53:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Cable To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>Piano hinge for Cowl Message-ID: <20031016175343.68740.qmail@web40801.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <004d01c3938c$d0a3b500$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 15 Mark, The problem with going into the plywood with rivets. The wood will splinter when you squeeze the rivet without a back-up. However, you could back-up the plywood by placing an angle or a flat doubler behind the plywood to make a sandwich. That way you don't have the end of the rivet unsupported. I would be hesitant to use the pop-rivet back-up washers however in this critical area. Since this is a Firewall, you'll need to make sure that every penetration is sealed. I think a more elegant solution would be to use Avibank AVO337 blind panel fasteners to attach your cowl onto the airframe. You can find these at http://www.avibank.com These fasteners only require a .040 hole to disengage. --- Mark Jones wrote: > My thoughts were piano hinge on top of stainless > steel firewall on top of > plywood. The pop rivet would go through the piano > hinge, through the SS > firewall then into the plywood firewall. If this is > an incorrect way, I will > use #4 x 3/4" wood screws. Thoughts..... > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "KRJerry" > . But if you > are talking about pop riveting metal to > wood....FORGET IT....!!! > > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ===== Scott Cable KR-2S # 735 Wright City, MO s2cable1@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 190, Issue 1 *************************************